Updated by Jennifer Rigby
Prague is a city that takes its liquid refreshment, and its after-dark entertainment, seriously. The beer is rightfully world-famous and beer gardens are a dream, a new trend for cocktail bars has taken the city by storm, and music and dancing options are plentiful.
Plus, with such a small city center, you’ll rarely have to travel far to find the best bars and clubs. In fact, one of the great pleasures of Prague is wandering around Old Town and just popping into any of the bars that take your fancy (and that don’t look hideously overpriced). ■ TIP → Go for the back streets, and don’t pay much more than 50 Kč for a beer. Another Prague perk is the relaxed hours. In the past, bars used to close down by 10 pm or so, but now Czechs have taken cheerfully to all-nighters spent discussing philosophy in smoky dives, listening to jazz in cavernous underground clubs, or dancing on tables in avant-garde clubs.
Many of the best nightlife spots combine international pizzazz with a bit of Czech eccentricity—think beers delivered by a miniature railway or a cocktail bar where absinthe is a major component in most of the menu options.
Prague is also a very musical city, which is reflected in its nightlife. A lot of the clubs also host live music performances, and the atmospheric jazz clubs offer great shows almost every night of the week.
Clubbers have plenty of options too, although anyone looking for the cutting edge of cool is unlikely to find it in Prague, because having a good time is much more important. There’s an increasingly visible gay scene, too.
For those who want to look beyond the bar, there are evening cruises on the Vltava that show off the city’s gorgeous waterfront, which is beautifully lit as the sun sets. In recent years, a thriving scene on Náplavka (a riverside walkway in Nové Mesto) has sprung up, offering cheap and cheerful pop-up pubs right alongside the water, often accompanied by food and fashion markets. And if we’re talking alfresco drinking, Prague’s beer gardens, comprising no-frills benches and brews in its beautiful parks, are a must-visit in summer.
And while Prague isn’t Monte Carlo, gambling is legal, and there is a range of establishments from exclusive high-end casinos to all-night herna bars with slot machines and video-game terminals. Most gamers say the top venues lack ambience and only the brave try the nonstop herna bars.
PLANNER
HOURS
Pubs used to close by 10 pm in the communist era, but Prague has since embraced all-night opening with vigor. It’s not unusual to see pubs open until 4 or 5 in the morning, and the streets can buzz until almost as late. On the other hand, some old-fashioned pubs still do close fairly early, and it’s best to check for live music venues, as noise restrictions can mean the show’s over by 10 pm; this doesn’t apply to underground jazz bars.
STAG PARTIES AND SAFETY
Stag parties used to be the curse of the city’s nightlife scene for anyone looking for a quiet and pleasant evening with a few friends. There are still a few groups out and about on any given night in matching tacky outfits singing songs on the street, but just a fraction of what it used to be. Many of the pubs that used to cater to them have shifted their focus to better service and quality food in an attempt to make up for the loss of stag business, which is good news for the average visitor and downtown resident.
In an effort to control street rowdiness associated with stag parties in the touristy center, Prague adopted a ban on street drinking in certain main areas, but it does not apply to restaurants with sidewalk seating or beer gardens in parks.
A word of caution about adult entertainment: thanks to the former popularity of Prague as a stag destination, several dance and strip clubs have sprung up on the side streets at the upper end of Wenceslas Square. With the downturn in stag parties, many of the establishments have become quite aggressive in attracting clients, and have people on nearby streets offering to show passersby a place for a “good time.”
Although these places are legal, they aren’t always safe or cheap. Some establishments charge large sums of money for every quarter-hour you stay or have other hidden fees; others simply charge outrageous fees for drinks. Around these areas, be sure to watch your wallet. Professional thieves frequent the same areas and target those who have had too much to drink.
STARÉ MĚSTO
Prague’s historical heart is also the heart of its nightlife. It’s packed with jazz bars, old pubs, and high-end cocktail bars.
BARS AND PUBS
Bonvivant’s.
The cocktail maker’s cocktail bar of choice in Prague, Bonvivant’s has a nostalgic feel and an eccentric owner who is clearly passionate about his drinks. Upmarket but not pricey, this is a perfect place for for an adventure in mixology and some tasty tapas in a refined setting. There are some amusing house rules. 
Bartolomějská 305, Staré Mesto
775–331–862
www.facebook.com/bonvivantsctc
Line B: Národní třída
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Hemingway Bar.
Absinthe is all over Prague, and if you want to dabble in the green fairy’s magic, there are worse places than the sophisticated cocktail bar Hemingway, which is named after the man himself. You won’t find any flaming absinthe here, but you will find a range of interesting cocktails, alongside Champagne and 200 varieties of rum—all of which were the famous writer’s drinks of choice.
Karolíny Světlé 26, Staré Mesto
773–974–764
www.hemingwaybar.cz/bar-prague
Lines A & B: Můstek
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Kristian Marco (river bar).
As you walk by in summer, you’ll be drawn in by the gentle guitar playing of the resident musician, or the smell of the barbecue, or the hum of conversation and clink of glasses. The beer is more expensive than some other bars, and the food can be pricey, but you pay for the location, right on the water’s edge near the National Theater, with the castle looming over you on the other side of the river.
Smetanovo nábřeží 198/1, Staré Mesto
No phone
Closed Nov.–Apr.
Lines A & B: Můstek
.
Fodor’s
Choice
Lokál.
This modern take on a traditional Czech pub has been an absolute hit with locals and in-the-know visitors since it opened in 2009, so it’s worth making a reservation at peak times. The beer comes from sleek silver tanks, there’s some interesting stuff on the walls, and you sit on long, dark wooden benches as your waiter delivers seemingly endless foaming mugs of the amber nectar. There’s also a good selection of Czech food as well as slivovice
(fiery plum brandy) for the daring—the walnut one is particularly good.
Dlouhá 33, Staré Mesto
222–316–265
lokal.ambi.cz
Line B: Náměstí Republiky
.
Prague Beer Museum.
With 30 Czech craft beers on tap, this is the place to go in Old Town if you’re hunting for an unusual brew in a fun environment. The owners scoured the countryside for their beers, and one is apparently only available as long as a friend of the brewer doesn’t break up with his girlfriend (he delivers the beer on the way to visiting her in Prague). There’s a second location in Vinohrady.
Dlouhá 46, Staré Mesto
732–330–912
www.praguebeermuseum.cz
Line B: Náměstí Republiky
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Fodor’s
Choice
U Medvídků.
A former brewery dating as far back as the 15th century, U Medvídků now serves draft Budvar shipped directly from České Budějovice, as well as its own super-strong beer X Beer 33, which is
brewed on-site. It’s perhaps the most authentic of the city center Czech pubs, which also means that it’s often pretty busy, and service can be correspondingly slow. However, it’s also big enough that you’ve got a good chance of finding a seat. The interior, including the taps, have a turn-of-the-20th-century feel. Occasionally, the bar offers exclusive Budvar brews available only at this location. There’s a hotel on-site, too.
Na Perštýně 7, Staré Mesto
224–211–916
www.umedvidku.cz
Line B: Národní třída
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Fodor’s
Choice
U Zlatého Tygra.
The last of the old, smoky, surly pubs in the Old Town, the “Golden Tiger” is famous for being one of the best Prague pubs for Pilsner Urquell. It’s also renowned as a former hangout of one of the country’s best-known and beloved writers, Bohumil Hrabal, who died in 1997, as well as Velvet Revolution hero and then president, Václav Havel. Reservations are not accepted; one option is to show up when the pub opens at 3 pm, with the rest of the early birds, and settle in for the rest of the night. You won’t be disappointed.
Husova 17, Staré Mesto
222–221–111
www.uzlatehotygra.cz
Line A: Staroměstská
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CLUBS
Harley’s.
Sometimes Harley’s can be a bit intense. It’s quite small and can get absolutely boiling hot, so if the crowds are heaving, give it a miss. However, if you’re in the right mood and get onto the dance floor early enough, it can be lots of fun. The music veers from chart hits to cheesy tunes and then back to rock. Look out for the motorbikes, which are strapped to the walls and ceiling.
Dlouhá 18, Staré Mesto
602–419–111
www.harleys.cz
Line A: Staroměstská
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Karlovy Lázně.
Inside a former bathhouse next to the Charles Bridge, this club claims to be the biggest in central Europe. We’re not sure about that, but it is pretty big, with five levels of music ranging from house to soul and even old-school disco (and sometimes a bit of Czech and international cheesiness). Lines can be long on weekends. Recently the venue introduced an all-inclusive VIP area that can be booked by small groups. Bear in mind this is a bit of a meat market and the crowd is pretty young and touristy.
Smetanovo nábř. 198, Staré Mesto
739–054–641
www.karlovylazne.cz
Line A: Staroměstská
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M1 Lounge.
A sleek club on a side street in Old Town, M1 Lounge has been known to host movie stars in town for a shoot as well as Prague’s local party crowd. Despite its proximity to a lot of the big sights, it somehow manages to feel a little bit exclusive; that is, until the dance music comes on and everyone takes to the floor the same as in any old place. Check the website to find out what music will be offered, as it changes every night of the week.
Masná 1, Staré Mesto
227–195–235
www.m1lounge.com
Line A: Staroměstská
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GAY AND LESBIAN
Friends.
This (appropriately named) friendly bar in Old Town serves reasonably priced beer—and Western-priced mixed drinks—in a roomy cellar space. There’s plenty of seating most weeknights, but it does get
busy on weekends. It opens at 6 pm, videos play every night, happy hour starts at 9, and a DJ spins after 10 on weekends, luring people onto a small dance floor—try karaoke on Tuesday. There’s no cover.
Bartolomějská 11, Staré Mesto
734–304–183
www.friendsprague.cz
Lines A & B: Můstek
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JAZZ CLUBS
Fodor’s
Choice
AghaRTA.
Bearing the name of an old Miles Davis album, this small but charming vaulted basement is home base for many local jazz acts. The management also runs a jazz record label and sells their CDs at the club’s store. The historic place can’t handle big acts, so the club’s ongoing jazz festival often puts name acts into Lucerna Music Bar. Music starts around 9 pm, but come an hour earlier to get a seat.
Železná 16, Staré Mesto
222–511–858
www.agharta.cz
Lines A & C: Můstek
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Ungelt.
Hidden in the side streets behind Old Town Square, this basement has been around since the 15th century and has been a cozy club with good music since 2000. The house bands are decent, and play jazz, blues, or fusion, depending on the night. Its central location means there’s mainly an international crowd, but you can still see some classic Czech sights—a sleeping dachshund perched on a bar stool, unaware of and unimpressed by the stage acts, for example.
Týn 2, Staré Mesto
224–895–748
www.jazzungelt.cz
Line A: Staroměstská
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ROCK AND LIVE MUSIC CLUBS
Roxy.
Part nightclub, part performance space, the Roxy doubles as a residence for DJs and as a popular venue for electronica and touring cult bands. The large former theater has a comfortable, lived-in feel that borders on warehouse chic. All exits from the club are final, and patrons are encouraged not to hang around the area. Upstairs, the NoD space has all manner of bizarre acts. Monday is free.
Dlouhá 33, Staré Mesto
602–691–015
www.roxy.cz
Line B: Nám. Republiky
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JOSEFOV
Josefov specializes in the stylish cocktail crowd, plus it’s the place to catch the boat for most of the evening cruises. This end of Old Town also has the best shopping, and you’ll rarely run into stag parties.
BARS AND PUBS
Fodor’s
Choice
L’Fleur.
One of a gaggle of swanky cocktail bars that have recently taken Prague by storm, L’Fleur mixes it with the best of them, blending old-school elegance and classic cocktails with local flavors (try the Georgie Shrub for a hit of traditional Czech spirit, Becherovka).
V Kolkovně 920/5, Josefov
734–255–665
www.lfleur.cz
Line A: Staroměstská
.
Tretter’s.
The lost elegance of the 1930s, with clean lines on dark wood, is re-created in a bar that serves Manhattans, martinis, and other classic cocktails, sometimes with live jazz in the background. This was a trendsetter in Prague when it first opened for classic cocktails, and it remains a great joint for a sophisticated tipple.
V Kolkovně 3, Josefov
224–811–165
www.tretters.cz
Line A: Staroměstská
.
U Rudolfina.
Some people claim that the way the beer is tapped here makes it the best in town, which probably explains the constant crowds. This was one of the first places in the world to offer unpasteurized beer from tanks, rather than kegs. And the place still retains its old-fashioned charm, making it one of the best authentic Czech pubs in a heavily touristed area. Groups should make reservations—a free table is rare.
Křížovnická 10, Josefov
210–320–853
www.urudolfina.cz
Line A: Staroměstská
.
Fodor’s
Choice
Zlatá Praha (InterContinental Prague hotel).
On the roof of this distinctly uninspiring building is a bar with wonderful city views. The 9th-floor Zlatá Praha restaurant and bar has an outdoor rooftop terrace that perfect for an evening glass of Bohemia Sekt (Czech sparkling wine) while soaking up gorgeous views.
Pařížská 30, Josefov
296–631–111
www.icprague.com/dining/zlata-praha
Line A: Staroměstská
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EVENING BOAT TRIPS
Boat Party Prague.
Join the floating party with a young international crowd for drinking and dancing on an outside deck or inside dance floor. A pre-party kicks off at 8:30, the boat sets sail at 11. The DJ spins pop and dance hits and the ticket includes booze and free entry to a nearby club at 1 am. Party reps sell tickets under the astronomical clock in Old Town Square.
Dvořákovo nábřeží, Josefov
608–543–364
boatpartyprague.com
380 Kč–730 Kč
Line B: Nám. Republiky
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Dinner Cruise with Music.
This “dinner cruise” often degenerates into a sing-along once the beer kicks in, so be prepared for boisterous merriment. The boat is heated, and this cruise runs in both winter and summer. The relatively early departure hour (7 pm) means you can catch the sunset in summertime, and than dine by candlelight, which is lovely. Entry price includes a buffet dinner and welcome drink, but no additional beverages.
Dvořákovo nábřeží, under Čechův most, Josefov
742–202–505
www.evd.cz
970 Kč
Line A: Staroměstská
.
Jazzboat.
Jazz, food, drinks, floating down the Vltava, and spectacular views of Prague—if you’re a jazz fan (or a fan of river cruises), it doesn’t get much better than this. The Jazzboat sails throughout the year; but blankets are provided during the summer if it gets chilly for those sitting outside. ■
TIP →
Be punctual, as the boat sails at 8:30 pm on the dot.
Usually takes off from Pier 5, under Čechův most, Josefov
731–183–180
www.jazzboat.cz
690 Kč
Line A: Staroměstská
.
U Bukanýra.
The name works out to “At the Buccaneer,” but the logo bears more than a passing resemblance to Humphrey Bogart in The African Queen.
This anchored “house-boat music bar” gives you the feeling of being on the river without having to commit to a three-hour
tour. Besides a few life preservers, the nautical theme isn’t taken too far. Beware that the boat sometimes does change its “permanent” location.
Nábř. L. Svobody, under the Štefánikův bridge, Josefov
777–221–705
www.bukanyr.cz
Line A: Staroměstská
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MALÁ STRANA
A mix of tourist traps and authentic late-night haunts, Malá Strana is a beguiling place to drink, in the shadow of Prague Castle.
BARS AND PUBS
Bluelight bar.
Despite its location just off the main drag up from Charles Bridge, the Bluelight bar manages to remain a laid-back, smoky haunt for some dedicated late-night drinking. The rock walls of the cavelike space are covered in graffiti, and the clientele is a mixed bag, but somehow it works. This is the perfect destination for a nightcap—just don’t blame us if you’re still ensconced hours later.
Josefská 42/1, Malá Strana
257–533–126
www.bluelightbar.cz
Line A: Malostranská
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Olympia.
A hot spot from the 1930s returned to its former glory provides a somewhat romanticized but enjoyable take on a Czech pub. Part of the Kolkovna chain that has locations around the city, Olympia appeals to visitors and locals alike who like the special unpasteurized Pilsner Urquell. There’s also a great a menu of Czech classics to help soak up all that delicious beer. Try the schnitzel or the steak tartare.
Vitežná 7, Malá Strana
251–511–080
www.kolkovna.cz
Line A: Malostranská
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U Hrocha.
Probably the most authentic and atmospheric old boozer in the touristy Castle Area, this traditional Czech pub is just below Prague castle. U Hrocha (The Hippo) is nothing fancy (think wooden benches, smoke, and stone walls) but the Pilsner is delicious, and soon you’ll feel right at home. The waiters can seem surly, but we don’t think they mean it.
Thunovská 10, Malá Strana
257–533–389
www.facebook.com/U-Hrocha-54902101598
Line A: Malostranská
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JAZZ CLUBS
U Malého Glena.
Commonly known as “Little Glen,” patrons are willing to cram in to hear solid house jazz and blues bands, as well as a few visiting acts. Get there early to stake out a seat near the stage; the tunnel-shape vault can be crowded but that only adds to the atmosphere. Upstairs they serve food until midnight.
Karmelitská 23, Malá Strana
257–531–717
www.malyglen.cz
Line A: Malostranská
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ROCK AND LIVE MUSIC CLUBS
Malostranská Beseda.
Once the town hall, then a mecca for writers and artists, it’s now a three-story music and theater club. Every level of this attractive building has something different going on—there’s an art
gallery under the roof, a “video café,” a live music bar, a restaurant, a café, and a basement beer pub. ■
TIP →
The live acts are mostly popular Czech bands.
Malostranské nám. 21, Malá Strana
257–409–112
www.malostranska-beseda.cz
Line A: Malostranská
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HRADČANY
Head up the castle hill to quaff beers that were brewed in a 13th-century monastery.
BARS AND PUBS
Fodor’s
Choice
Klášterní pivovar Strahov.
The first references to this gorgeous hilltop brewery inside a monastery are from the turn of the 14th century, and while we don’t think the monks still actually make the beer, the tasty Pivo Sv. Norbert (Beer St. Norbert) is brewed on the spot. There’s a decent food menu and outdoor seating.
Strahovské nádvoří 301, Hradcany
233–353–155
www.klasterni-pivovar.cz
Line A: Malostranská
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NOVÉ MĚSTO
Some areas of the neighborhood, particularly around Wenceslas Square, are still dealing with the aftereffects of the stag-party craze, but others have embraced funky, alternative evening offerings.
BARS AND PUBS
Gin and Tonic Club.
With 6,400 combinations, this stylish gin palace offers everything from a perfect traditional tipple with ice and a slice to a G&T with sun-dried tomatoes or even bacon. Small plates complement the gin-heavy menu and there’s a gorgeous little candlelit garden for mild nights.
Navrátilova 11, Nové Mesto
777–669–557
www.gintonicclub.com
Lines A & B: Můstek
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Jáma
(The Hollow
). An outdoor beer garden hidden from passersby on the street provides a refuge from the noisy downtown crowds. The indoor bar is decorated with old rock-and-roll posters. Beer and hard cider on tap go with Mexican food and some pretty good burgers. Internet access is available here for a reasonable price, and Wi-Fi access is free.
V Jámě 7, Nové Mesto
222–967–081
www.jamapub.cz
Lines A & B: Můstek
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Fodor’s
Choice
Náplavka.
The riverside promenade near the Dancing House building comes alive in the summer months when around a dozen pop-up pubs open up and serve a variety of local brews throughout the day. The pop-ups are everything from tents, small chambers in the walls of the walkway, to punters perched on garden furniture or picnic tables. Further along are fashion and food markets, occasionally floating on boats on the Vltava itself. Everything closes down in the height of winter, in January and February.
Náplavka, Nové Mesto
Line B: Karlovo nám
.
Fodor’s
Choice
Pivovarský dům.
This brewpub, which opened in 1998, may be short on history, but it makes up for that with outstanding beer. The dark, light, and seasonal microbrew beers are stellar. (Fermenting beer can be viewed through a window.) The food is good, but a slight letdown when compared with the drinks, which include sour cherry beer and even a Champagne beer for the more adventurous. Take heed: there is often a line to get in.
Lípová 15, Nové Mesto
296–216–666
www.pivovarskydum.com
Lines A & B: Můstek
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U Fleků.
The oldest brewpub in Europe—open since 1499—makes a tasty, if overpriced, dark beer. But the steady stream of tours means it can be hard to find a seat (in the evenings, at least); they serve around 2,000 pints of it every day. A brewery museum (phone for reservations) opened in 1999, and cabaret shows have been added to the entertainment. 
Beware of waiters putting unordered shots of liquor on your table.
If you don’t insist they remove them right away, they’ll be on your bill, and service can be indifferent to rude. But the raucous, beer-swilling, mug-clinking bonhomie makes up for that.
Křemencova 11, Nové Mesto
224–934–019
www.ufleku.cz
Line B: Karlovo nám.
Vinárna U Sudu.
Although Prague is beer territory, this pays homage to that other camp: wine. A mazelike, multilevel cellar forms the large wine bar in a baroque building. Make note of where your travelling companions are or you might never find them again—the interior is that cavernous. But, this also makes for a cozy drinking hole in the cold winter months. ■
TIP →
This is usually one of the first places during the year to crack open burčák, tasty new wine served shortly after harvest.
Vodičkova 10, Nové Mesto
222–232–207
www.usudu.cz
Line B: Karlovo nám.
Fodor’s
Choice
Výtopna.
FAMILY
Located on the very touristy Wenceslas Square, the drinks here are delivered by miniature train. It’s gimmicky but great fun when the drinks pull up to the table.
Václavské náměstí 56, Nové Mesto
725–190–646
vytopna.cz
Line C: Muzeum
.
Vzorkovna.
Currently the holder of the unofficial title of Prague’s most alternative city-center pub, Vzorkovna operates a confusing chip system for payment (you get the change back at the end of the night, but don’t lose the chip, they’ll charge you). It’s an acquired taste, with a rough pop-up feel of bars in metropolises like London or New York, plus that uniquely Prague junkyard vibe, with dusty floors, and a giant dog wandering around. The beers on tap are from the award-winning Únětický Pivovar brewery, and reasonably priced for such a centrally located bar.
Národní 339/11, Nové Mesto
No phone
Line B: Národní třída
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CASINOS
Casino Ambassador.
One of the first casinos to open in the 1990s, the Casino Ambassador remains one of the big daddies of Prague’s gambling scene. Games include American roulette, blackjack, poker, and pontoon, plus free refreshments for players. Nongamblers can play beginner slots, a practice session where you don’t gamble with money.
Hotel Ambassador, Václavské náměstí 7, Nové Mesto
224–193–681
www.vipcasinoprague.com
Lines A & B: Můstek
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CLUBS
Duplex.
Effectively an international super club in the center of Prague, Duplex is the go-to spot for international DJs playing in the Czech Republic, like David Guetta, as well as the top local acts. Because of the location and the aggressive marketing at street level, the crowd is heavy with tourists and prices are above the norm. But the sheer size of the club—a multilevel penthouse with great views from the terrace—keeps things interesting and bearable.
Václavské nám. 21, Nové Mesto
732–221–111
www.duplex.cz
Lines A & B: Můstek
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Nebe.
Sometimes all you want is some guaranteed good pop tunes, a friendly vibe, and a packed dance floor. If that’s what you’re after, Nebe will never let you down. Plus there’s no cover charge. There are a couple of branches, but this slightly hidden one on Křemencova is the best of the bunch.
Křemencova, Nové Mesto
608–644–784
www.nebepraha.cz
Line B: Můstek
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Radost FX.
A clubbing institution dating from the early ’90s, this place still draws a loyal following. The dance floor can be a little cramped, but other rooms offer lots of seats and couches for hanging out. Those with two left feet can chill upstairs with a drink or eat food until late in the vegetarian restaurant.
Bělehradská 120, Nové Mesto
603–193–711
www.radostfx.cz
Line C: I.P. Pavlova
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GAY AND LESBIAN
JampaDampa.
One of the city’s few lesbian clubs has a karaoke night and an occasional drag king show. The bilevel space, including a vaulted basement, is a little less flashy than most other clubs. Drinks are quite reasonably priced, considering it is close to Wenceslas Square.
V Tůních 10, Nové Mesto
704–718–530
www.jampadampa.cz
.
JAZZ CLUBS
Reduta.
This is where President Bill Clinton jammed with Czech President Václav Havel in 1994, and lots of pictures of that night are still hanging around the joint. Reduta was one of the bigger clubs in the 1960s and ’70s, and still feels a little like a dated museum of those glory days. The coat-check person can be pretty aggressive, which is another throwback to the pre-1989 era, but the jazz is worth any aggravation.
Národní 20, Nové Mesto
224–933–487
www.redutajazzclub.cz
Line B: Národní třída
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ROCK AND LIVE MUSIC CLUBS
Fodor’s
Choice
Lucerna Music Bar.
Rock bands on the comeback trail, touring bluesmen, plus Beatles and Rolling Stones cover bands make up the live schedule. Another big draw are the nights—usually Saturday—of 1980s or ’90s music videos. The nostalgia-fest will have you dancing your socks off until the wee small hours, alongside what feels like half of Prague and much of the rest of Europe as well. It’s good fun.
Vodičkova 36, Nové Mesto
224–217–108
www.musicbar.cz
Lines A & B: Můstek
.
RedRoom.
A welcoming scene, good acoustics, and a great open mic night make this little spot a cozy choice for hearing some quality live rock acts in Prague.
Myslíkova 283/28, Nové Mesto
602–429–989
redroom.cz
Line B: Národní třída
.
VINOHRADY
A beautiful district much loved by expats, Vinohrady has a great local scene of trendy bars and clubs, as well as laid-back traditional pubs.
BARS AND PUBS
Parlament.
Located a short walk beyond Wenceslas Square, Parlament is a modern take on a traditional Czech boozer, with everything that implies: tasty food, great beer (they serve Staropramen), and good times.
Korunní 1, Vinohrady
224–250–403
www.vinohradskyparlament.cz
.
Fodor’s
Choice
Prosekárna.
A chic little spot in a Vinohrady side street, Prosekárna is crammed with hundreds of varieties of prosecco. Make reservations but do leave time to explore this beautiful neighborhood.
Slezská 48, Vinohrady
775–565–813
www.prosekarna.cz
Line A: Jiřího z Poděbrad
.
Fodor’s
Choice
Riegrovy Sady.
Forget everything you ever knew about “beer gardens.” This is the real deal. Benches, beer, sausages, and big screens for sporting events, all perched on top of the hill in one of Prague’s loveliest city parks. Watch out, though—you can easily spend the day here without even noticing that you’re in a park. It’s a particularly lovely spot at sunset, with great views over the city.
Riegrovy sady, Vinohrady
Line A: Nám. Jiřího z Poděbrad
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CLUBS
Retro.
With a location just a bit out of the center, this fun club provides an escape from the hassle of downtown. The street-level part is a pleasant functionalist-style café with outdoor seating, and the lower level houses a club with a big dance floor. The name is a bit misleading. There are some ’80s nights, but the bulk of the schedule is hip-hop and other more contemporary sounds.
Francouzská 4, Vinohrady
222–510–592
www.retropraha.cz
Line A: Nám. Míru
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GAY AND LESBIAN
On Club.
It claims to be the largest gay club in Prague, and with three floors that’s probably right. There’s a disco, several bars, and other attractions for a male crowd. Catch dancing every night, special parties on weekends, and the occasional fashion show at the aptly named “He” club.
Vinohradská 40, Vinohrady
No phone
www.onclub.cz
.
Fodor’s
Choice
The Saints.
This small British-owned pub and cocktail bar is centrally located near several other gay and gay-friendly establishments in Vinohrady. The owners also run a gay-friendly travel and
accommodations service.
Polská 32, Vinohrady
222–250–326
www.praguesaints.cz
Line C: Nám. Míru
.
Termix.
Borderline claustrophobic on weekends, this club has precious little standing room—especially with the decorative automobile sticking out of the bar wall. The music themes vary from night to night. It’s closed Monday and Tuesday. Note: The street-level door is easy to miss.
Třebízského 4a, Vinohrady
222–710–462
www.club-termix.cz
Line C: Nám. Míru
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ŽIŽKOV
This edgy neighborhood offers a lot to the discerning, thirsty traveler who ventures out of the city center. Apparently it has the densest cluster of pubs in the world, so if you end up here, it’s best to try out the random places that catch your eye.
BARS AND PUBS
Vlkova 26.
The cool kids hang out at this out-of-the-way Žižkov basement bar to drink and chat late into the night. It’s cozy, with dim lights, candles, wooden benches, and the bare brick walls. There are DJs and theme music nights when everyone gets up to dance.
Vlkova 699/26, Žižkov
Line A: Nám. Jiřího z Poděbrad
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Fodor’s
Choice
Žižkov Television Tower.
Once just a slightly weird communist landmark, the TV tower now houses a swanky cocktail bar, restaurant, and one hotel room, all inside the capsules clinging to its main structure. The bar attracts a well-heeled European crowd, with it’s great views at sunset in particular, inventive drinks, and great service. The plush booths, the retro ’70s-style decor, and unusual location make for a sophisticated treat. Artist David Černý’s huge baby sculptures crawling up the tower are reason enough to visit.
Mahlerovy sady 1, Žižkov
210–320–081
towerpark.cz
Line A: Nám. Jiřího z Poděbrad
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ROCK AND LIVE MUSIC CLUBS
Fodor’s
Choice
Palác Akropolis.
Housed in a funky art deco–esque building a little out of the city center, this is the city’s best live music club. When shows are sold out, though, this place can be pretty packed. The main room closes at 10 pm due to noise concerns. DJs play in the two side bars until much later, though.
Kubelíkova 27, Žižkov
299–330–913
www.palacakropolis.cz
Line A: Nám. Jiřího z Poděbrad
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SMÍCHOV
The highlight of this area has to be the home of Staropramen, the attractive brewery that’s been sitting proudly on the river, brewing beer since 1869.
BARS AND PUBS
Pivovary Staropramen
(Staropramen Brewery
). The slogan for this place could be, “For beer, go directly to the source.” Staropramen
means “old source,” and it’s definitely one of the most ubiquitous beers in the city. The brewery tour is fairly diverting, but it’s the in-house bar that really draws the crowds with incredibly fresh, ice-cold beers, which are brewed on-site. ■
TIP →
The brewery runs a chain of Potrefená Husa restaurants, with classic Czech food and beer, across the country as well.
Nádražní 84, Smíchov
257–191–111
www.pivovary-staropramen.cz
Line B: Anděl
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JAZZ CLUBS
Fodor’s
Choice
Jazz Dock.
If you missed your boat tour, don’t despair. You can still hear notes and beats wafting aross the water while supping a cocktail in a decadent manner. This extremely cool, glass-enclosed nightclub and jazz bar that’s built on a dock, offers a view of the passing boat traffic and lit-up landmark buildings like the National Theater. Inside are a 30-foot-long bar and two concerts per night.
Janáčkovo nábř. 2, Smíchov
774–058–838
www.jazzdock.cz
Line A: Anděl
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ROCK AND LIVE MUSIC CLUBS
Futurum.
Slightly out of the city center, the decor at this stalwart club could be described as odd, but cool. Think 1950s sci-fi crossed with art deco, and you’re on the right track. It’s a fun, pretty casual night out though. Video parties draw the crowds, but there are some live performances too, usually from punk or goth bands, or DJs playing electronic music.
Zborovská 7, Smíchov
257–328–571
futurum.musicbar.cz
Line B: Anděl
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Fodor’s
Choice
Meet Factory.
This spot is almost too cool for school. Established more than a decade ago by leading Czech modern artist David Černý as a place for cultural and artistic collaboration, the space houses a gallery, concert hall, and theater—there’s so much to do it’ll make your head spin. It really is a brilliant place for live music from all genres, but there’s often up-and-coming rock and electronica from local and international bands. To get here, cross over the railway tracks on a little bridge and keep an eye out for the car sculptures driving up the side of the building.
Ke Sklárně 3213/15, Smíchov
251–551–796
meetfactory.cz
Line B: Smíchovské nádraží, then Tram No. 12, 14, or 20
.
LETNÁ, HOLEŠOVICE, AND TROJA
There’s a mixed nightlife bag outside the city center, but there are also some really cool beer gardens and clubs. Take the opportunity to really get under the skin of Prague and check them out.
BARS AND PUBS
Fodor’s
Choice
Letenské Sady.
You can pay a lot for a pint and great views in Prague, or you could go to this cunningly located beer garden at the top of Letná Park and pay hardly anything for cold, crisp pints while you gaze over the river and the breathtaking rooftops of Staré Město. It’s a truly great beer garden, even if its other facilities (food choices, toilets) are a little basic.
Letenské Sady, Letná
Line A: Malostranská
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CLUBS
Cross Club.
It’s a bit of a trip out of the city center (although it’s only about 10 minutes on a night tram), but if you’re a fan of alternative culture and really memorable nights, it’s worth it. The club is a mixture of many different things: otherworldly metal sculptures; floors and floors of different music, including lots of drums and bass; interesting artistic happenings, such as poetry readings, theater shows, film screenings, author readings, and an afternoon kids’ theater; and a gorgeous garden lit in a variety of bright colors. But, it all comes together for a great night out, if not one for the fainthearted. Its closing hours are listed as “??” which should give you some idea of its general ethos.
Plynární 1096/23, Holešovice
No phone
www.crossclub.cz/cs
Line C: Nádraží Holešovice
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SaSaZu.
A restaurant and nightclub and music venue in a warehouse in the middle of a market isn’t really the place you’d expect to draw Prague’s high-heeled glitterati, but SaSaZu often does. The restaurant serves delicious and inventive pan-Asian fusion cuisine, and the club can be a lot of fun too, as long as it’s not a quiet night, because the vast space—which can house 2,500—can feel a little empty. It usually plays chart hits and has hosted a wide range of big international acts such as Ke$ha, Lily Allen, Tiësto, Public Enemy, and Busta Rhymes.
Bubenské nábřeží 306, Holešovice
778–054–054
www.sasazu.com
Line C: Vltavská
.
Fodor’s
Choice
Stalin parties.
This free, open-air party at the top of Letná Park on Friday and Saturday nights is the hottest ticket in town. The bar and DJs are located right next to the huge Metronome monument, which marks the spot that once housed the world’s largest statue of Stalin. Chill vibes, a young, international crowd, and great views over the sparkling city lights make this a cool option on warm nights. Beer is for sale, but queues can be long—good thing bringing a can of your own is acceptable. Currently only open in summer, and overseen by an art collective who also run a container bar in Malá Strana.
Letenské sady, Letná
No phone
containall.cz/stalin
Line A: Malostranská
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PRAGUE’S BEER CULTURE
If there’s one thing people associate with the Czech Republic, it’s beer. And with good reason: the Czechs brew some of the world’s best lagers. Whether it’s the water, Czech hops, or simply that pilsner was invented here is up for debate, but the golden liquid is central to Czech culture.
Accordingly, don’t be surprised to see beer consumed in all manner of social situations, from construction workers cracking a can with their breakfast roll to high-schoolers meeting for some suds after class. It’s simply central to most of the country’s interactions; the Czechs drink more beer per capita than any other nation in the world. More than that, however, the Czechs take pride in the quality of their beer, so even if it’s not normally your thing, don’t be afraid to try a pint during a visit here.
A PUB PRIMER
A pivnice is a Czech beer hall named after pivo, or beer. Expect a range of beer, usually drunk in high quantities along with simple snacks. And one Czech phrase you’ll learn very quickly here is “pivo, prosím, ” or “beer, please.”
ETIQUETTE
Don’t be intimidated by Prague pubs: they’re happy to host you and show off their wares, so to speak. Ordering a beer is quite easy: Ask for a pivo when the waiter comes by (it may take a minute or two, but they’ll get to you). Though most pubs serve beers from a single brewer, you might have options between a 10- or 12-degree quaff; if you’re not sure and just ask for a beer, you’ll probably end up with the lighter 10-degree stuff. If you don’t want another round, when the waiter comes by and asks, say “Ne, dekuju” (No, thanks).
As for the check itself (which will get tallied around 10:30 or 11 pm on weeknights and later on weekends if you don’t finish first), it’s a strip of paper on the table. Each mark on the paper represents a beer that you’ve had. The waiter will count them up and tell you how much you owe—though do try and keep your own count, and be mindful how much the beers cost if you want to be absolutely sure not to get overcharged.
A small tip is the norm here, essentially rounding up to the nearest large number (usually coming to a few extra dollars) and handing it to your server, or another server who will come by with a money pouch to handle the transaction. There’s no need to tip an additional 15% unless you think you’ve received exceptional service.
PRAGUE’S MUST-TASTE
Czech beers are rightfully famous for their quality. While it’s easy to find beers from big brewers like Staropramen or Gambrinus on tap most anywhere, more and more pubs are utilizing a “fourth pipe” (or tap) to showcase a local, independent brew that you might not have seen before. Here are a few to keep an eye out for:
Bernard Lager: This Bohemian pilsner stands up well to the famous Pilsner Urquell thanks to its intense hoppiness.
Opat Kvasničák Nefiltrovaný: A tasty, unfiltered brew with sweet and sour notes.
Kozel dark: A winner at the World Beer Awards, Kozel makes this dark beer as well as more traditional lagers.
U Medvídku X-33: Available only at the famed traditional pub of the same name, the X-33 sounds like a secret government project, but is actually one of the stronger beers in the country, at 12% alcohol.