Updated by Jennifer Rigby
Shopping in Prague still feels like an adventure. Around one corner, you’ll find a crumbling shop front and a glimpse of a stooped jeweler hard at work restoring an ancient pocket watch. Around the next, a cutting-edge design boutique selling witty Czech-made home accessories.
In recent years Czech fashion and design has come of age. While it’s no Paris, there’s a funky, even punky, edge to many of the clothes and objects on offer that will stand out anywhere in the world.
But traditional pleasures still abound. Endearing traditional crafts are available on every cobblestoned street. Each region of the Czech Republic has its own specialty, and many are represented in Prague. Intricate, world-renowned hand-blown glassware, wooden toys and carvings, ceramic dishes, and delicate lace all make perfect “I got it in Prague” gifts. The Czechs are also masterful herbalists, and put plants to good use in fragrant soaps and bath products made on local farms.
That said, every city has its kitsch, and Prague is no different. Marionettes have been a favorite Czech handicraft and storytelling vehicle since the late 18th century, and they are ubiquitous here. The trick is avoiding mass-produced versions at tourist kiosks and getting your hands on the real puppet deal.
There are plenty of real deals in the city’s antique shops, art galleries and antikvariats —secondhand book and print stores. Some are vast, dusty caverns, some look like an elderly aunty has tipped out her entire attic willy-nilly, while still others are pristine, prissy, and pricey. Either way the unpredictable jumbles of merchandise offer a fun day of flea market–like spelunking—you may pick through communist-era buttons in one shop and find cubist office chairs or ancient Czech manuscripts in the next.
If you like your souvenirs to sparkle, garnet peddlers abound. But take heed: all that glitters isn’t garnet—many are not the real deal. True Czech garnets are intensely dark red. Also known as pyrope or Bohemian garnet, these precious stones have been mined here for centuries. Tight clusters of garnets are found on antique pieces, while modern baubles are often sleeker and set in gold or silver. Stick to our recommended shops for quality gems, and inquire about the setting—if a low-priced bauble seems too good to be true, it could be set in low-quality pot metal.
The international jet set isn’t forgotten either. If you crave big luxury labels, the aptly named Paris Street (aka Pařížská ulice) will give you your dose of runway glam. Do not expect any steals here, although they are available elsewhere in the city’s impressive selection of European chain stores.
Most of Prague’s shops are open from 10 am until 6 or 7 pm, and malls tend to stay open until 9 or 10 pm.
If shopkeepers in Prague seem aloof, don’t be dissuaded—try greeting them with a friendly “dobrý den ” when entering a store, and you may be surprised byt heir warmth.
V.A.T. KNOW-HOW
For those living outside the European Community, you can claim back the V.A.T on your purchases. When shopping, ask for a V.A.T. refund form, and find out whether the merchant gives refunds (not all stores are required to do so). Have the form stamped by customs officials when you leave the country and drop it off at the refund-service counter to receive 21% back on all your purchases (15% back on books or food from grocery stores). See the Travel Smart chapter for more information.
MAJOR SHOPPING AREAS
Dlouhá. One of the coolest streets in central Prague, Dlouhá extends off Old Town Square but is worlds away from the tourist hordes. Half the delight is the architecture, and the other half is finding hip, seemingly hidden boutiques that specialize in Czech fashion and design. Dlouhá, Staré Mesto .
Na Příkopě. Overflowing with popular chains like Zara and H&M, Na Příkopě feels like a major shopping street you’d find in any European capital. In the shadow of Prašná brána—one of the original city gates—it is perhaps more picturesque than most, but be warned: it can be crowded. Na Příkopě, Nové Mesto .
Pařížská ulice. Feeling swanky? Get yourself down to tree-lined Pařížská ulice, which hosts all the big international designers from Dior to Prada. Even the air smells expensive here. Pařížská ulice, Staré Mesto .
Václavské náměstí. This historic boulevard is now full of international chains and hawkers. Extending from the National Museum to Na Příkopě, Václavské náměstí has an energy level on a par with Times Square. Prague’s megabookstore and two British department stores are all crammed in. Václavské náměstí, Nové Mesto .
STREET MARKETS
Fodor’s Choice Christmas Market. December is arguably the prettiest time of year to visit Prague, thanks to the Christmas Market in the city’s main squares. From the beginning of December (just before St. Nicholas’ Day), wooden booths sell Czech handicrafts, piping-hot snacks, and spicy mulled wine. Performances by choirs and musical ensembles are held in Old Town Square throughout the month, all in the glow of the towering spruce tree. ■ TIP → There’s also a similar market around Easter. Staroměstské náměstí, Staré Mesto .
Sapa - Little Hanoi. It’s a bit of a trip from the city center, but it’s worth it for fans of Vietnamese culture and cuisine. Little Hanoi in Prague feels just like the real thing—thousands of Vietnamese people came over during communist times and have made the place, or at least this corner of it, their home. You’ll find traditional crafts woven from willow branches such as baskets and some cut-price clothes, but the real draw is the atmosphere and the food—try some great dishes or buy ingredients to re-create your favorite dishes. To get here, take Bus No. 113 from the Kačerov Metro stop or Bus No. 198 from the Smíchovské Nádraží bus station to Sídliště Písnice. Libušská 319/126 www.sapa-praha.cz .
A jumble of funky boutiques, bookshops, antiques stores, jewelry dens, and souvenir shops converge in what is arguably Prague’s prettiest district.
Art Deco Galerie. The quintessential vintage shop just off Old Town Square is pleasantly cluttered with art deco–era sculptures and furnishings. Those with eclectic style will love the intricate brooches, turban-style headbands, and silk scarves here. Michalská 21, Staré Mesto 224–223–076 www.artdecogalerie-mili.com Lines A & B: Můstek .
Fodor’s Choice Bric a Brac. If you like the sensation of unearthing your treasure, this wonderfully cluttered antiques store is the ticket. About the size of a closet, this shop uses every nook to display a mix of Communist-era badges, tin “Pilsner Urquell” signs, charming old typewriters, and more. Memorable gifts can be found among the clutter—that colorful Czech tobacco tin could make a great jewelry box. Ask the friendly English-speaking shopkeeper for tips. Týnská 7, Staré Mesto 222–326–484 Line A: Staroměstská .
Dorotheum. Central Europe’s answer to Sotheby’s, this world-renowned auction house was founded in Austria in the early 1700s, and set up shop in Prague in 1992. It’s a serious antiques haunt for serious collectors, so prices are quite steep and items are appropriately opulent. The decorative dishes and sculptures, 19th-century paintings, ornate furniture, jewelry, and watches are worthy investments. Ovocný trh 2, Staré Mesto 224–222–001 www.dorotheum.cz Closed Sun. Lines A & B: Můstek .
Starožitnosti Ungelt. Tucked away beneath an archway behind Týn Church, this elegant shop features a selection of art nouveau and art deco items. Beautiful and unusual glass vases from Czech designers sit alongside furniture, glittering brooches, and delicate porcelain butterflies. Týn 1, Staré Mesto 224–895–454 www.antiqueungelt.cz Line A: Staroměstská .
Galerie NoD. Above the Roxy music club on Dlouhá street, this gallery space is filled with youthful energy. Exhibits feature edgy work by up-and-coming artists focusing on anything from puppets to photography. The gallery also hosts experimental theater, music, and comedy nights, and touts an adjacent bar and café sprinkled with twentysomethings on laptops. Dlouhá 33, Staré Mesto 733–307–600 nod.roxy.cz Line B: Nám. Republiky .
Galerie Peithner-Lichtenfels. Jam-packed with paintings and drawings, this gallery is overseen by an approachable owner perched behind a cluttered desk. Among the wares are works by both famous and lesser-known Czech artists. A glass-covered table near the front of the store is crowded with small original drawings. Michalská 12, Staré Mesto 224–227–680 www.gplc.cz Line A: Staroměstská .
Galerie UBK. Specializing in postwar surrealism, this airy gallery features work from many of the leading Czech artists present and past, including globally significant painter Josef Šíma. If artwork prices are too many koruny for your comfort, a good alternative is picking up a book on the artist’s exhibition, also for sale here. Betlémské nám. 8, Staré Mesto 605–260–635 www.galerieubetlemskekaple.cz Line B: Národní třída .
Botanicus. Organic body and bath products here, like “Lettuce and Olive Oil” soap, are crafted from fresh fruits, vegetables, and herbs on a rural Czech farm. Inside the spacious and fragrant store there are myriad other all-natural products that make charming gifts for those back home, including tempting chutneys and condiments. Týnsky Dvůr 3, Staré Mesto 234–767–446 www.botanicus.cz Line B: Nám. Republiky .
Guerlain. The Prague branch of this international makeup chain is rather fancy. Set in an imposing building in the heart of the Old Town, the sales assistants look fierce but are friendly, and will gladly guide you through the cosmetics and perfumes on offer in the calming white surrounds of the store. You can also book a fragrance consultation with a perfume expert, or even spa treatments at L’institut, the on-site spa. Dlouhá 16, Staré Mesto 227–195–330 www.guerlain.cz Line A: Staroměstská .
Ingredients. An extremely swanky beauty boutique run by two Czechs, with Sisley Boudoir, the on-site aromatherapy and treatment center. Rare perfumes, skin-care products, and candles are displayed amid contemporary art. Jáchymova 2, Staré Mesto 224–239–477 www.ingredients-store.cz Line A: Staroměstská .
Kosmetické delikatesy Madeleine. Like a perfume delicatessen, this lovely shop has flowers in the window and perfumes lining the walls; it’s a calming presence near Old Town Square. The friendly staff will help you choose the scent that suits you best. Dlouhá 10, Staré Mesto 721–536–566 www.madeleine.cz Line A: Staroměstská .
Fodor’s Choice Manufaktura. Established in 1991 in a bid to preserve traditional Czech and Moravian crafts, Manufaktura is now a thriving business with branches across the country. At this centrally located outpost, home-spa products like bath salts and creams are arranged in a pleasant, folksy manner, as are cosmetics made with Czech beer—yes, beer. Other branches, like the one in Malá Strana on Zlatá ulička u Daliborky 7, sell wooden toys and other items. Celetná 12, Staré Mesto 601–310–608 www.manufaktura.cz Line B: Staroměstská .
Galerie Antikvariat Ztichlá klika. Rare books, old books, new books, art—this place is cavernous, but it has something for everyone. It’s partly underground too, which only adds to the appeal. Be warned: you might lose hours browsing the shelves and shelves of books and walls of photographs and paintings, all of which are for sale. Be sure to take a moment to appreciate the quirky signage as well—the shop is also known as the “blue tiger,” for reasons that will become obvious. It’s only open Tuesday–Friday 1–7 pm. Betlémská 10-14, Staré Mesto 222–222–079 www.ztichlaklika.cz Line B: Národní třída .
Benetton. FAMILY The preppy line downsizes its colorful polo shirts and crewneck sweaters for little ’uns, adding a few sequins and cartoon character prints for fun, inside this small shop on the hectic fringe of Old Town Square. The huge Na Příkopě store has children’s clothes downstairs and a really rather fancy sweeping staircase in the center of the shop. Železna 1, Staré Mesto 731–413–522 www.benetton.com Lines A & B: Můstek .
Alice Abraham. Inside her eye-catching boutique, this Czech designer with an eye for the dramatic shows off her wares. Clearly fond of animal prints, glitz, and daring cuts, Abraham is unafraid of pushing the fashion envelope, and her styles are anything but demure. Vězeňská 3, Staré Mesto 224–815–511 www.aliceabraham.com Line A: Staroměstská .
Anne Fontaine. This store is effectively Paris in Prague—a French designer, understated French decor, and rails of blouses dripping with that “je ne sais quoi” of French elegance. The blouses—the designer’s signature item—are all in black or white, but come in different styles and shapes, from sleek to sheer. Anne Fontaine shares shop space with Petrusse, a richly-patterned shawl, blanket, and scarf designer. Masna 12, Staré Mesto 602–662–594 www.annefontaine.cz Lines A & B: Můstek .
Beata Rajska. The shop is imposing, and the sales assistants are positively forbidding, but don’t let that deter you, because the clothes are worth it. Many of the pieces would make fantastic special occasion outfits, so it’s not surprising to learn that the shop dressed contestants for the Miss Czech Republic, Miss Europe, and Miss World pageants throughout the early 2000s, and now offers custom tailoring. If nothing else, it’s fun to try a few items on and think, “Someday…” Dlouhá 3, Staré Mesto 222–314–174 www.beatarajska.com Line B: Staroměstská .
Bohème. The understated clothes and decor here tend toward creamy tones, muted grays, and warm browns. Czech designer Hana Stocklassa’s garments are classics with unexpected elements—modern takes on knitwear or a shirt with a collar that’s cut like a paper chain. Trying things on is a pleasure beneath the golden lighting from round overhead lamps. Dušní 8, Staré Mesto 224–813–840 www.boheme.cz Line B: Nám. Republiky .
Coco Boutique. The window display at this vintage store is always entertaining—think sequin ball gown and a jauntily placed bowler hat on the same mannequin. In fact, the shop window might be all you see as the opening hours are idiosyncratic at best. But, if you do happen across Coco when it’s open, you’re in for a secondhand treasure-trove treat (including some vintage designer pieces). Michalská 15, Staré Mesto Line B: Staroměstská .
Fodor’s Choice Czech Labels And Friends. It’s clear that the Czech and Slovak designers whose clothes line the shelves at this bright boutique don’t take themselves too seriously. Each piece has an element of surprise—from eye-popping colors to classic shapes that hide unexpected materials, or a T-shirt with the slogan “Me? Normal? Never.” You’ll like wearing these unique designs as much as the designers seem to have enjoyed making them. Železná 12, Staré Mesto 778–000–715 www.locallabels.cz/en/content/2-contact Line B: Staroměstská .
Diesel. Tough jeans, slinky dresses, and edgy accessories by the Italian label occupy two floors of this glitzy store. If your pristine wardrobe needs a few gritty updates and you’ve got some spare pennies, anything here will do the trick. Pařížská 28, Staré Mesto 222–317–647 Lines A & B: Můstek .
DNB. Inside her chic studio close to the river, Czech designer Denisa Nova shows off carelessly sexy clothing that is both wearable and luxurious. Slouchy denim, extra-long silk T-shirts, and an occasional pop of color (think purple jumpsuits) seal the effortless deal. Naprstkova 4, Staré Mesto 603–876–860 www.denisanova.cz Line B: Národní třída .
Dusni3. From Vivienne Westwood to Mellow Yellow shoes, this modern white store offering premium womenswear brands in sleek surroundings is the place to find high-end international street style. Dušní 3, Staré Mesto 234–095–870 www.dusni3.cz Line B: Staroměstská .
Ermenegildo Zegna. Men in the market for finely tailored suits (made-to-measure services are available) and posh basics like zip-front jackets and smart trainers, will relish the atmosphere at this international store. Signature colognes scent the store, which also sells stylish aviator and round-frame sunglasses to complete the man-about-town look. U Prašné brány 3, Staré Mesto 224–810–018 www.zegna.com Line B: Nám. Republiky .
Hugo Boss. For modern menswear, whether formal or casual, the German designer’s gorgeously tailored pieces are unmatched. This store, stretching grandly around a Pařižská street corner, also stocks a fine selection of luggage and accessories. Pařížská 19, Staré Mesto 222–327–260 www.hugoboss.com Line A: Staroměstská .
Kenzo. This Franco-Japanese fashion house makes clothing with a relaxed, bohemian feel. Nothing is too constricting or finished, particularly the billowy dresses and tops in lightweight fabrics, printed with smudgy tribal and floral patterns. Menswear is lighthearted and casual. Even the formal suits feature loose-fitting pants and long cardigans. Náměstí Republiky 5, Staré Mesto 222–002–302 www.kenzo.com Line B: Nám. Republiky .
Klára Nademlýnská. If there’s one word that describes this boutique—just off Old Town Square—and the wares within, it’s funky. Catering to carefree hipsters, this Czech designer excels in the little details—unusual draping, fun animal prints, an unexpected horse necklace—which make each item unique and original. Dlouhá 3, Staré Mesto 224–818–769 www.klaranademlynska.cz Line B: Nám. Republiky .
La Sartoria. Big, luxurious rugs, Frank Sinatra playing in the background, the set of whiskey glasses in the window, and the dartboard. Oh, right: there are clothes, too, such as beautifully tailored suits and jackets perfect for a weekend in the country. Hastalska 9, Staré Mesto 606–788–878 www.lasartoria.cz Line A: Staroměstská .
Fodor’s Choice Leeda. This artistic-minded shop is chic, original, and just a little bit mad. Stocked with genuine and original Czech designs, items range from painted dresses to billowing silk skirts. The designers collaborate with graphic designers, photographers, and musicians, which makes the little store feel all the more like a great embodiment of Czech design. Bartolomějská 1, Staré Mesto 775–601–185 www.leeda.cz Line B: Národní třída .
Navarila. Now in two inviting Old Town locations, Czech designer Martina Nevarilova offers a great line of relaxed and cozy knitwear, often in bold colors or stripes. The shops are worth a look if you’re feeling the chill of the Prague winter or if you’re on the hunt for a classy and unique cover-up for other occasions. The other store location is at Haštalska 8/939. Elišky Krásnohorske 4/11, Staré Mesto 271–742–091 www.navarila.cz Line B: Národní třída .
Onvi & Onavi. Boasting various urbane brands and occupying several residences on a posh street, Onvi & Onavi is great fun to browse in. From Luisa Cerano’s soft knits and chic coats to Jacob Cohen’s handmade jeans, always with that extra decorative detail, there are plenty of options to tempt you to part with your koruny. U Prašné brány 1, Staré Mesto 222–002–313 www.onvi.cz Line B: Nám. Republiky .
Parazit Fashion Store. A cool, graffiti-chic space which champions Czech and Slovak fashion students and young designers, making limited-edition clothes, accessories, and gifts. The owners take their fashion seriously, adopting their motto from Nicholas Cage’s character in the David Lynch film Wild At Heart : “This snakeskin jacket represents a symbol of my individuality, and a belief in personal freedom.” Karlova 25, Staré Mesto 731–171–517 www.parazit.cz Line B: Staroměstská .
Report’s. High quality and prices to match sum up this shop’s selection of sleek Italian suits and country club–ready weekend wear. Crystal chandeliers illuminate display cases of crisp button-up shirts and silk ties, many in bright colors that add pop to those dashing suits. Touches of humor can be found in the fun pieces, like the blue suede shoes—Elvis-inspired perhaps? Žatecká 55, Staré Mesto 224–813–948 www.reports.cz Line B: Nám. Republiky .
Šatna. This funky little shop specializes in vintage and secondhand finds. If you can face a bit of rummaging, think extremely promising attic with cut-price pieces for men and women from designers like Ralph Lauren, as well as more random bits and pieces. The store also stocks interesting jewelry, including earrings made of headphones and scissors. Konviktská 13, Staré Mesto Line B: Staroměstská .
Space Praga. One of the coolest shops in Prague, Space is usually teeming with funky young Czech women on the lookout for something new and different. The garments are beautiful one-offs, from the flowing skirts to the patterned bras; browsing the racks makes you feel like you’re looking through somebody’s wonderful closet. There’s a branch for children around the corner (on Kozi), too. Vězeňská 6, Staré Mesto 725–100–317 Line A: Staroměstská .
Timoure et Group. Led by two Czech designers, this label churns out sleek, minimalist career and casual wear like wrap dresses and trenches. The flagship Prague store is relaxed and welcoming, with elegant T-shirts neatly displayed. V kolkovné 6, Staré Mesto 222–327–358 www.timoure.cz Line A: Staroměstská .
Versace. Perched on a pretty corner of U Prašné brány within view of the sprawling Hotel Paris, this shop has all the trappings you’d expect from Versace. Window displays feature neon touches and mannequins in loud prints. Inside, marble floors and ornate paisley curtains complete the opulent scene. U Prašné brány 3, Staré Mesto 224–810–016 Line B: Nám. Republiky .
Absintherie. Absinthe is everywhere in Prague. It’s a bit of a tourist cliché, but even if you aren’t a fan of the “green fairy,” it can be a fun gift for folks back home. This shop is the real deal for the fiery spirit—try a wee nip at the bar while you’re there if you’re brave enough! There’s also an on-site museum with old advertisement posters, bottles, and absinthe spoons. Jilská 7, Staré Mesto 224–251–999 www.absintherie.cz Line A: Staroměstská .
Fodor’s Choice Masna na Kozím plácku. This food shop on a quiet stretch of Kozí is like walking into a bygone era before supermarkets took over the high street. Think the best bread, meat, and cheese shop from the 18th century that you can possibly imagine, and you’ve just described this place. Shelves groan with fresh produce, the air is full of delicious smells, and friendly staff are ready to help tease your taste buds. Dobrou chut’! (That’s Czech for“Bon appétit!”) Kozí 9, Staré Mesto 255–795–404 www.masnanakozimplacku.cz Line B: Staroměstská .
Monarch. There’s been a bit of a wine boom in the Czech Republic in recent years, as international customers are finally waking up to the country’s superb local producers. This discreet Spanish-themed wine bar and shop is a great place to enjoy a glass of wine and plate of tapas before shopping for a bottle or two of the wines you’ve sampled to take home. There’s also a vast selection of international vintages. Na Perštýně 15, Staré Mesto 224–239–602 www.monarch.cz Lines A & B: Můstek .
Fodor’s Choice Artěl. This American company, led by designer Karen Feldman, merges modern style with traditional Czech techniques, using mouth-blown molten crystal and hand-painted glassware, for instance. Items are so painstakingly crafted that they’re bound to become family heirlooms, but all are far from prim. They also make handbags to order and have a couple of other shops around town. Celetná 29, entrance on Rybna, Staré Mesto 224–815–085 www.artelglass.com Line B: Nám. Republiky .
Material. The light dancing on the incredibly eye-catching glassware in this elegant boutique makes it almost impossible to walk on by. But the unusual jewelry, stunning brightly-colored chandeliers, and an array of beads and Bohemia crystal will make you want to stay and shop. The prices are not for the fainthearted, but the pieces are worth it if you want to bring home something truly original. Tyn 1 - Ungelt, Staré Mesto 608–664–766 www.i-material.com Line A: Staroměstská .
Preciosa. A genuine Czech glass success story, Preciosa has its headquarters just outisde Prague and is now a global manufacturer, melting 40 tons of glass every day. In this sparkling shop just by Old Town Square, you can buy the chandeliers, glass sculptures, and jewelry the company is famous for. Jáchymova 26/2, Staré Mesto 488–118–106 www.preciosa.com Line A: Staroměstská .
St.Vol. Part art gallery, part shop, this is probably the funkiest interpretation in the city of the Czech tradition of making beautiful glassware. This fact hasn’t escaped the international community or some of the Czech Republic’s most famous citizens, including late President Havel, who called on designer Borek Spirek’s talents for the restorations of Prague Castle. Whether or not the unusual, extravagant items here suit your taste, a visit to the shop, complete with gold pillars, is unlikely to be forgotten. Valentinská 11, Staré Mesto 224–814–099 www.stvol.eu Line A: Staroměstská .
Art Shop Prague. In this store, the city’s famous Astronomical Clock is old news. The walls are lined with numerous new clock designs from a number of different Czech designers. Some are ceramic and some just totally wacky—from melting timepieces to a clock made out of a baseball glove. Malá Štupartská 5, Staré Mesto 222–313–108 www.artshopprague.cz Line A: Staroměstská .
Fodor’s Choice Kubista. On the ground floor of the stunning House at the Black Madonna, this gorgeous museum shop brings original and replica cubist and art deco pieces into the real world. Marvel at angular black-and-white vases by Vlastislav Hofman, and let your eyes linger on the lines of a 1930s tubular armchair. Maps of Prague’s art deco, cubist, and modern architecture are also sold here. Ovocný trh 19, Staré Mesto 224–236–378 www.kubista.cz Closed Mon. Line B: Nám. Republiky .
Modernista. Innovation is revered at this store inside the Municipal House, a magnet for fans of cubist and modernist furniture and decor. Originals, reproductions, and work by new Czech designers are available, making it nearly impossible to leave without something distinctive—a streamlined steel liquor cabinet or a cool cubist vase, perhaps. There are other branches in Vinohrady and at the Rudolfinum; this store focuses on ceramics and porcelain. Náměstí Republiky 5, Staré Mesto 222–002–102 www.modernista.cz Line B: Nám. Republiky .
Nobis Life. Want to make over your home? This is interior design of the “whole kitchen” rather than the “one attractive vase” variety, so you won’t be able to fit it all into your suitcase, but the sleek store could help unleash your creative potential and provide some inspiration in the form of classic and modern styles. Dlouhá 32, Staré Mesto 222–212–859 www.nobis.cz Line B: Náměstí Republiky .
Qubus Design. Tucked away on a narrow stretch of Rámová, this great homewares shop is made even better by its friendly staff, who might just offer you a cup of coffee. The lure of what’s for sale is really the draw here though—a fetching pair of gold ceramic Wellington boots, as well as funky home accessories from nonconformist Czech designers, such as some sleek glass shelves bisected by a floor lamp, cabinet, and vase. Rámová 3, Staré Mesto 222–313–151 www.qubus.cz Line B: Nám. Republiky .
Česky Granát. This shop’s friendly staff are eager to answer any questions about their stock of gorgeous garnets and amber jewelry. Delicate necklaces and dangling earrings may set you back up to $500, but some pieces in the gleaming selection of charms and rings cost only one-tenth as much. Celetná 4, Staré Mesto 224–228–281 Lines A & B: Můstek .
Coccinelle Accessories. Soft leather and shades of rose and blue abound in this expensive-looking Italian handbag store. Window displays coordinate bags and wallets and bureau drawers are stuffed with soft, floral-patterned scarves to finish the look. U Obecního domu 2, Staré Mesto 222–002–340 www.coccinelle.cz Line B: Nám. Republiky .
Granát Turnov. This store is part of the Granát Co-op, the world’s most prolific producer of Bohemian garnet jewelry. The elegant Dlouhá branch has two separate rooms. Gold and silver jewelry, including an especially nice selection of brooches, is to the right. Pricier diamond-clad pieces are to the left. Dlouhá 30, Staré Mesto 222–315–612 www.granat.eu Line B: Nám. Republiky .
Halada. This classy German jewelry company supplys trinkets by carefully chosen brands. Stunning pearls in different shades, as well as gold, silver, and platinum pieces are fixtures. The branch on Pařížská offers the most varied selection, while the serene shop on Na Příkopě focuses on pearls. Pařížská 7, Staré Mesto 222–311–868 www.halada.cz Line A: Staroměstská .
Hermès. Those iconic silk scarves that embody Parisian chic can be found here arranged in perfect rows in a glass display case among other equestrian-inspired accessories. Racks of gem-color silk ties are on display upstairs, but it’s the lush leather goods on the first floor that are the main attraction. Pařížská 12, Staré Mesto 224–817–545 www.hermes.com Line A: Staroměstská .
Louis Vuitton. Bling watches and well-heeled patrons abound at this luxurious boutique on the corner of Pařížská and Siroka. Here you’ll find a fleet of scarves, luggage, and of course, bags, all bearing the famous “LV” logo. Pařížská 3, Staré Mesto 224–812–774 www.louisvuitton.com Line A: Staroměstská .
Swarovksi Bohemia. There’s no avoiding the allure of this brand’s crystal, and the store itself is an attractive complement, outfitted with some spectacular crystal pillars. Pick up a playful key-ring charm or glittering bauble at relatively affordable prices. It’s worth spending some time reveling in the window-filled space, as shoppers outside point excitedly at the displays. Celetná 7, Staré Mesto 222–315–585 www.swarovski.com Lines A & B: Můstek .
Zlatnictví Miloslav Ráž. The real treat at this old-school jewelry store is getting a glimpse of the jeweler at work—he may even give you a wave if you’re lucky. The store has a variety of items including rings and other jewels, some of which are displayed in the window, but you can also create your own unique piece with a designer. It can be expensive, but you’re getting handcrafted items with real gems, after all. V kolkovně 8, Staré Mesto 603–440–874 www.zlatnictviraz.cz Line A: Staroměstská .
Havelská. Havelská is a charming open-air market, centrally located in Staré Město, featuring touristy kitsch, seasonal trinkets, and handmade jewelry alongside fresh fruits and vegetables. The market is open daily. Havelská, Staré Mesto Lines A & B: Můstek .
Music Antiquariat. CDs, books, and records are lovingly curated at this music shop tucked behind Old Town Square. The owner lived in West Berlin where his friend, an autograph hunter, snapped celebrities in their heyday. Now the negatives and pictures decorate the store, alongside old rock-and-roll photographs and postcards that are for sale. It’s a delightful throwback to a pre-digital music era. Týnská ulička 8, Staré Mesto 222–317–231 www.musicantiquariat.cz Closed Sun. Line B: Staroměstská .
Beltissimo. The bright green shop frontage can be a little off-putting but you should not judge this book by its cover. The shop stocks high-end labels for men and women—quirky and sophisticated heels by Marc Jacobs, and comfortable Camper trainers—alongside its own brand. U Prašné brány 1, Staré Mesto 222–315–803 www.beltissimo.eu Line B: Nám. Republiky .
Rimowa. This branch of the German luggage brand is almost a museum to its wares, with suitcases and bags displayed on plinths like artworks. The hard-backed cases in an array of colors are destined for the holiday wardrobes of the well-heeled, no doubt already purchased just down the street at one of Pařížská’s many world-class designer stores. Pařížská 26, Staré Mesto 777–997–886 www.rimowa.de Line B: Staroměstská .
Kotva. A warrenlike hexagonal layout makes this Czech department store feel more adventurous than most. Across the tram tracks from the massive Palladium, it houses the standard clothing and household goods shops as well as electronics, beauty products, and luggage, and also offers a health and wellness center and even a salt cave. Nám. Republiky 8, Staré Mesto 224–801–111 www.od-kotva.cz Line B: Nám. Republiky .
Palladium. This gigantic mall draws hordes of shoppers to its four floors, one of which is all bars and restaurants serving everything from sushi to Indian food. Amid the gangs of teenagers and 200 shops, including U.K. favorite Top Shop and a two-floor H&M, keep in mind that this historic building served as the city’s army barracks in the 19th century. Nám. Republiky 1, Staré Mesto 225–770–250 www.palladiumpraha.cz Line B: Nám. Republiky .
Hudy Sport. The two floors here overflow with hiking, camping, and rock-climbing equipment from top brands like North Face. This store is also a good place to pick up a backpack, laptop bag, or water bottle. Look for end-of-season sale bins. Na Perštýně 14, Staré Mesto 224–218–600 www.hudy.cz/praha.perstyn Line B: Nám. Republiky .
Pohádka. FAMILY You’ll be drawn in by the amazing window display, which features anything and everything from puppets climbing trees to wooden airplanes. However, you’ll stay to be a part of the sheer joy that bursts out of this two-floor toy shop. Packed with attractive wooden toys, stuffed animals, puzzles, and games, it harks back to a more innocent age. There’s also a good selection of marionettes if you have your heart set on taking one home. Celetná 32, Staré Mesto 224–239–469 www.czechtoys.cz Line B: Nám. Republiky .
There are plenty of souvenir shops just off Charles Bridge, but explore the other streets for more unusual options.
Shakespeare & Sons. The cozy Malá Strana store boasts two floors of books, mostly in English, and displays work by local and international artists. Bookworms will be intoxicated by the sheer choice and reverent attitude to the tomes; this is a real old-school bookshop. Everyone else can soak up the expat atmosphere and pretend that they too never have to leave the Golden City. U Lužického semináře 10, Malá Strana 257–531–894 www.shakes.cz Line A: Malostranská .
Analogue. A photography and camera-lover’s paradise, Analogue offers a knowledgeable staff passionate about analog photography, Lomography cameras (the trend for which apparently began in Prague in 1991), Polaroids, and more. There’s a public darkroom, exhibitions, and a lab, and you can also get passport photos done here (the U.S. Embassy is just down the road). Vlašská 357/10, Malá Strana 603–530–035 www.analogue.cz Line A: Malostranská .
Cihelna Concept Store. Attractively located by the river, this design concept shop near the gorgeous Hergetova Cihelna restaurant profiles the best in Czech design in a clean, unfussy space, from funky chairs to inventive lighting. Cihelna 2b, Malá Strana 257–317–318 www.cihelnaprague.com Line A: Malostranská .
Slavica Polish Pottery. A nice change from the same old tourist shops, this authentic Polish pottery offers beautiful, bright, traditional homeware. They will also ship your hand-decorated gifts back home (at an additional cost) if you have run out of space in your suitcase—or if you don’t trust yourself or your airline with breakable souvenirs. Vlašská 631/11A, Malá Strana 732–181–104 www.slavicapottery.com Line A: Malostranská .
Antique Újezd. This dimly lit antiques shop fills bureau drawers with vintage accessories and trinkets, as well as a selection of dainty 1930s pocketbooks, clutches, and bejeweled coin purses. There are also glass cases housing a pricey supply of diamonds, pearls, and gems, as well as a selection of paintings, furniture and the odd cat porcelain piece. Újezd 37, Malá Strana 257–217–177 www.antiqueujezd.cz Line A: Malostranská .
Marionety. A fresh wooded scent greets visitors to this pleasant puppet shop on steep Nerudova Street. Discover an array of linden-wood marionettes, including classic characters like Tinkerbell and Charlie Chaplin, eerily reptilian wizards, and princesses in pink. Artist biographies are found alongside a few displays, and plaster puppets—cheaper but not quite as charming—are also on offer. Nerudova 51, Malá Strana 774–418–236 www.loutky.cz Line A: Malostranská .
Fodor’s Choice Truhlář Marionety. Among Prague’s many marionette peddlers, this shop below the Charles Bridge stands out for its selection of unadorned linden-wood marionettes handmade by local and regional artisans. There’s also a quirky stock of decorative wooden toys, such as rocking horses and giant mermaids, fit for a lucky child’s bedroom. U Lužického semináře 5, Malá Strana 602–689–918 www.marionety.com Line A: Malostranská .
It’s all about the views in the Castle Area, but while you’re checking out the views, check out the traditional craft shops as well.
Hračky (Rocking Horse Toy Shop). FAMILY Take a trip back in time to when toys were made from wood and model cars were cherished. Everything about this store will make you smile, from the friendly owner’s greeting to the stock of cheerful wind-up music boxes and animal figurines. Look closely at those wood-carved rocking horses and three-headed dragons—many items are handmade by Czech craftsmen. The shop even sells kits with colored pencils and pastels for budding young artists. Loretánské nám. 3, Hradcany 603–515–745 Line A: Hradčanská .
Prague’s New Town (or Nové Město) is home to all the big department stores and international brands, which are located in two main shopping areas—Václavské náměstí and Na Příkopě. But don’t miss the various covered arcades or “passages” around the city, because they are home to a few interesting boutiques as well as nail bars and wine shops.
JHB Starožitnosti. This shop has beautiful art deco and art nouveau diamond rings, porcelain and brass decorative objects, and furniture. But the company’s specialty is clocks from the 18th- and 19th centuries hailing from Austria, the Czech Republic, France, and Germany. Antique pocket watches featured in the window displays also draw longing stares from knowing collectors and passing tourists alike. Panská 1, Nové Mesto 222–245–836 www.jhbantique.cz Lines A & B: Můstek .
Sephora. The makeup mainstay remains a dependable source for high-quality cosmetics and skin-care products from international brands. This location is not overwhelmingly large, like some of the chain’s other stores, so you should have no trouble finding your favorite Clinique moisturizer or Dior mascara. Václavské náměstí 19, Nové Mesto 234–656–100 www.sephora.cz Lines A & B: Můstek .
Antikvariát Karel Křenek. Despite the extensive collection of antique maps, prints, and engravings dating from the 16th century, this shop is refreshingly bright and clean. Among the shop’s treasures: beautiful Japanese woodblocks and a well-known map depicting Asia as the winged horse Pegasus. The shop also mounts and frames works on request. Národní 18, Nové Mesto 222–314–734 www.karelkrenek.com Line B: Národní třída .
Globe Bookstore & Coffeehouse. A fine place to peruse the shelves of English-language titles, this friendly store leads to a café down the hall, where lattes, laptops, and expats are de rigueur. If you’re hoping to attend English-language literary, film, or arts events while in Prague, check out the wall of fliers near the front desk. Pštrossova 6, Nové Mesto 224–934–203 www.globebookstore.cz Line B: Národní třída .
Kiwi Travel Bookshop. With more than 17,000 items in stock (including those featured on the online store), you’ll find English-language travel guides, useful local maps, books about travel, and even a few globes scattered around the premises—but in keeping with the adventurous spirit, you might need to hunt them down a bit. Sales associates are quite helpful, and most speak some English. Jungmannova 23, Nové Mesto 224–948–455 www.mapykiwi.cz Line B: Národní třída .
Fodor’s Choice Mucha Museum shop. The perfect place for your art nouveau or Alfons Mucha fix (the world-famous Czech artist who made his name painting Sarah Bernhardt in fin de siècle Paris), this charming shop is located in a museum dedicated to the artist. You’ll find posters, postcards, calendars, glass, jewelry, scarves, books, lamps, and more, all with the signature Mucha motifs. Kaunický palác, Panská 7, Nové Mesto 224–216–415 www.mucha.cz Lines A & B: Můstek .
Neoluxor Bookstore. With its four floors, music section, and coffee shop, this bookstore is the biggest in the Czech Republic, reminiscent of major American chains and known as “the palace.” Only a small area in the basement is set aside for English-language books, but the store is an excellent source for maps of the Czech Republic and other European cities and countries, and has some travel guidebooks in English. Václavské nám. 41, Nové Mesto 296–110–384 www.neoluxor.cz Line A: Muzeum .
Ivana Follová. Ivana Follová’s little boutique at the top of Wenceslas Square shows off her wares in enticing style—think a chic, green space in central Prague. The designer specializes in silk, which she dyes in bold patterns and shapes into gauzy, graffitied garments, from wedding dresses to coats. She also stocks distinctive accessories like chunky costume jewelry by other Czech designers. Mezibranská 9, Nové Mesto 222–211–357 www.ivanafollova.cz Lines A & B: Muzeum .
Mango. The latest trends are presented with a refined touch by this Spanish brand, which mixes flirty dresses with sophisticated structured jackets and classic leather satchels. The size of the store will make your jaw drop—it could very well host rock concerts—and there’s even a moving walkway to get you to the back of the shop. Na Příkopě 8, Nové Mesto 224–218–884 www.mango.com Lines A & B: Můstek .
Marks & Spencer. The Czech flagship location of the popular British department store is housed inside the historic Melantrich building on Wenceslas Square. Reasonably priced essentials, from clothes to accessories, can be found here as well British specialty food items. ■ TIP → Glance upwards as you head in to the shop—during the Velvet Revolution in 1989, Václav Havel addressed the crowds from the building’s balcony. Václavské nám. 36, Nové Mesto 224–237–503 www.marks-and-spencer.cz Lines A & B: Můstek .
Pietro Filipi. Taking its inspiration from the elegance and quality of Italian couture, this Czech brand makes timeless clothing for style-conscious professionals. Classic styles, bright colors, and quality design and materials are the watchwords here. Národní 31, Nové Mesto 222–365–239 www.pietro-filipi.com Line B: Národní třída .
The Room. The Room stocks creative European brands for fashion-conscious men, from cool Chinese-French Three Animals to Alex Monhart’s swanky Czech-made black backpacks. Školská 7, Nové Mesto 222–967–770 www.basmatee.cz Closed Sun. Lines A & B: Můstek .
Cellarius. Try out acclaimed Moravian wines, or pick up a select imported bottle at one of two locations: in the lovely, historic Lucerna Passage, or at the Budecska Street store, which also features a wine cellar and garden restaurant. Both stores offer tastings. Lucerna Passage, Stepanska 61, Nové Mesto 224–210–979 www.cellarius.cz Lines A & B: Můstek .
Moser. Elegant glass stemware and decorative bowls and candlesticks are hand-blown or -cut, and gorgeous enough to outfit the dining tables of Europe’s aristocratic elite. This historic Czech company, established in Karlovy Vary in 1857, maintains two Prague locations. Both stores are breathtaking, boasting chandeliers, tea sets, and porcelain figurines on multiple floors, in addition to all that graceful glass. Na Příkopě 12, Nové Mesto 224–211–293 www.moser-glass.com Line B: Nám. Republiky .
Belda Shop. This jewelry shop feels more like a gallery than a shop, with its statement pieces gleaming in the light. But don’t be put off; it’s a family-run business and the staff are friendly. The carefully curated sculptures and accessories are typified by an amazing use of metal and precious stone. Mikulandská 10, Nové Mesto 224–933–052 www.belda.cz Closed weekends Line B: Národní třída .
Bontonland Megastore. This behemoth of a music store is situated underground, somewhere between the Metro station and the street, giving it an intriguing cavelike atmosphere. This is the best place to purchase Czech music and films, and there is a limited supply of English-language media, too. Palác Koruna, Václavské nám. 1, Nové Mesto 601–309–183 www.bontonland.cz Lines A & B: Můstek .
Bat’a. Shoes, glorious shoes! Five floors of them, to be exact, are housed in this shoe giant that has locations around the world but got its start right here in what is now the Czech Republic. A well-planned layout makes the massive selection in the country’s largest shoe shop less overwhelming, but shoe junkies could spend days browsing the rows of sandals, sneakers, and even boat shoes. ■ TIP → There’s a clearance section on the top floor for bargain hunters. Václavské nám. 6, Nové Mesto 221–088–478 www.bata.cz Lines A & B: Můstek .
Adidas. The iconic three stripes, the emblems of the brand, are discreetly displayed all over this unusually spacious concept store on a crowded stretch of Na Příkopě. Sneakers, funky T-shirts, and other sports gear fill the bright space drawing European tourists inside. Na Příkopě 12, Nové Mesto 224–210–160 www.adidas.cz Lines A & B: Můstek .
Intersport. This enormous megastore inside Galerie Myslbek supplies gear for every sport under the sun. Less mainstream pursuits like roller hockey and rock climbing are covered, but you’ll also see basic necessities for runners and tennis players. There is a selection of backpacks for day trips or lengthy hikes, which could come in handy for excursions outside Prague. Na Přikopě 21, Nové Mesto 221–088–097 www.intersport.cz Lines A & B: Můstek .
Nike. Relentless pop music pulses through the shop’s dizzying array of athletic wear. Zip-front jackets complete with the famous Swoosh logo, neon tennis outfits, and even “Nike Prague” T-shirts can be yours if you have the patience to deal with crowds of teenagers. A wall of casual shoes and athletic footwear is all the way in the back of the store, where you can also customize your sneakers—a staff member will take you through the process, but note that customized sneakers are not completed the same day you order them. Na Příkopě 22, Nové Mesto 221–451–181 www.nikeprague.cz Line B: Náměstí Republiky .
Sparkys. FAMILY This is Prague’s preeminent toy store, with goodies for babies, toddlers, and older children. Let the little ones run wild among three floors of Lego, puzzles, and games. Sparkys also stocks an adorable array of stuffed animals, including Krtek, the cute Czech cartoon character whose popularity spread across the communist world in the second half of the 20th century. Havířská 2, Nové Mesto 224–239–309 www.sparkys.cz Line B: Nám. Republiky .
Debenhams. If you need an extra pair of socks or a seasonal item, like a beach towel, this U.K. department store is a dependable choice. Relatively affordable selections of clothes and accessories for men and women are current but not overly trendy. The upstairs coffee bar has free Wi-Fi access. Václavské nám. 21, Nové Mesto 221–015–026 www.debenhams.cz Lines A & B: Můstek .
Fodor’s Choice Náplavka. Every Saturday sees the hipster riverside hangout of Náplavka transformed into a farmers’ market selling staples like potatoes and apples as well as more artisanal products like traditional Czech dumplings and honey wine, smoked meats, and tortellini. Náplavka, Nové Mesto www.farmarsketrziste.cz Closed Jan. Line B: Karlovo Náměstí .
Slovanský dům. A bit classier than the average mall, this collection of shops is flanked by a shady courtyard and features a few decent restaurants. Stores include big names like Armani and Calvin Klein, but it’s the chic little boutiques, like Danish fashion brand Micha, that set this mall apart. There’s also a movie theater showing new releases, sometimes in English. Na Příkopě 22, Nové Mesto 604–904–081 www.slovanskydum.com Line B: Nám. Republiky .
Tesco (My Narodni). A one-stop wonder, this U.K. supermarket outpost in the My Narodni development stocks clothing for the whole family, plus home goods, cosmetics, English-language magazines, and a full basement floor of groceries. It’s a mecca for tourists, expats, and Czechs alike, and those in the know head up to the top floor for the pleasant rooftop bar during the summer. Národní třída 26, Nové Mesto 222–815–111 itesco.cz/prodejny/obchody-tesco/my-narodni Line B: Národní třída.
This beautiful, European neighborhood is less touristy, but there are still some interesting boutiques if you’re prepared to go a little further afield.
Pour Pour. Can’t bear the thought of leaving Prague without something completely unique? Stop by this little shop filled with eclectic creations—from underwear to funny diaries—by young, up-and-coming Czech designers. With a rotating collection, the shop is all about originality, and unexpected fashions and finds will remind you that getting dressed can be an adventure. Vinohradská 74, Vinohrady www.facebook.com/pourpourshop Closed weekends Line A: Jiřího z Poděbrad .
Prague Thrift Store. Prague’s got good game when it comes to thrift and retro stores, and this emporium in Vinohrady is one of the oldest and best. Moreover, a percentage of the profits go to charity. Šumavská 29, Vinohrady 608–623–339 www.thriftshop.cz Line A: Jiřího z Poděbrad .
This rough-and-tumble area is more famous for its pubs, but if you’re in the area, check out some of the cool new galleries and boutiques.
Bliss Farm Gallery. Bliss Farm is quintessential Žižkov cool. An “open art studio space” and shop, the place is packed with paintings, silkscreen printed T-shirts, and even stuffed animals, as well as all sorts of other interesting bits and bobs. The products are handmade by local artists, and often recycled. Čajkovského 1716/22, Žižkov 775–031–487 www.blissfarm.cz Closed Sun. Line A: Jiřího z Poděbrad .
This area offers a reasonable range of modern shops and international brands, as well as Nový Smíchov, the big daddy of shopping centers.
Dům Hudebnich Nastroju. Prague is a musical city, and if you’re inspired by your surroundings you should check out this store near the Novy Smichov shopping center, which stocks everything from brass instruments to bongos. Follow the sounds of an oboe, flute, or double bass if you’re lost. Štefánikova 19, Smíchov 224–213–996 www.hn-kliment.cz Line B: Anděl .
Humanic. From bright flip-flops to spiky stilettos, with some high-tops on the side, this affordable Austrian chain has all the latest trends in shoes. Located next to Nový Smíchov, it’s basically Prague’s version of DSW, where you can try shoes on without having to wait for sales help. OC Nový Smíchov, Plzenská 8, Smíchov 257–289–490 www.humanic.net Line B: Anděl .
Nový Smíchov. This bright and airy mall is manageably sized, with a convenient mix of shops and an indoor playground. Zara, H&M, Levi’s, Clinique, and a two-floor Tesco are in the mix. There’s also a cinema and a nice park with good views of the city behind the mall. Plzeňská 8, Smíchov 251–101–061 www.novysmichov.eu Line B: Anděl .