WELCOME TO SOUTHERN BOHEMIA

Updated by Raymond Johnston

Southern Bohemia calls itself the “pearl of the Czech Republic,” and it’s not just a clever nickname. The richness and beauty of this corner of the country bordering Germany and Austria are undisputable.

The natural landscape is lovely—soft rolling hills crisscrossed with rivers and dotted with ponds mark most of the territory—and the Šumava Mountains to the southwest are a popular ski destination. Coming from Prague, you’ll cross the border somewhere north of Tábor, while heading east the indiscernible crossing to Moravia comes near to Telč. Forestry and fishing make up most of the area’s important industry, with tourism and beer brewing more fun runners-up.

The history of the cities is intertwined with many an aristocratic name. The Hapsburgs, Rosenbergs, and Schwarzenbergs all had a large influence on the region, and their nobility is reflected in the area’s many castles and beautifully preserved historic squares. The 15th century saw the territory wrapped up in the religious wars sparked by Jan Hus, whose reformist ways angered the Catholic Church and eventually led to his martyrdom. Evidence of the Hussite Wars in the mid-1400s is visible in Tábor.

Český Krumlov is the one must-see destination and often the only stop for visitors, which means huge crowds on summer weekends. The castle here rivals any monument in Prague.

TOP REASONS TO GO

Sense the enchantment: Feel like a storybook character strolling through Český Krumlov.

Loop around the streets: Get lost among the tiny streets of Tábor.

Take the bike lane to lunch: Bike around and eat the fresh carp caught from the fishponds of Třeboň.

Go for baroque: Experience rustic baroque with a visit to the 19th-century living-museum village of Holašovice.

Sip the suds: Drink the local brew in České Budějovice, Český Krumlov, or Třeboň.

GETTING ORIENTED

Southern Bohemia is one of the most popular regions in the Czech Republic. Chock-full of castles and pretty cities with well-preserved squares, it’s a favorite weekend getaway for many Prague locals. Well-marked hiking and biking trails encourage lots of sporty times, and it’s easy for visitors to take part, since even some of the train stations rent bicycles. The towns themselves are active, too, and many hold a variety of festivals throughout the year. Being so close to Prague, several of these cities can be done in a day trip; but to get a true flavor of the town and its inhabitants, it’s worth your time to stay over or spend a couple of days jumping between a few of the outer areas. The attractiveness of the landscape combined with cultural pursuits makes Southern Bohemia an amazing place to explore.

Český Krumlov. A fanciful city with a stunning castle and gardens: Český Krumlov is the must-see in Southern Bohemia.

Tábor. With streets designed to thwart invading armies, Tábor will lose you in its beauty and friendliness.

Písek. Strung along the river, the city with the oldest Gothic bridge in the country is also home to some great museums.

Třeboň. The spas of Southern Bohemia can be found in Třeboň. Peat-moss bath, anyone?

Jindřichův Hradec. Authentic and attractive, Jindřichův Hradec is the perfect example of a true Southern Bohemian town: interesting castle, beautiful architecture, and real people.

Hluboká nad Vltavou. A castle to die for. The fairy-tale hulk of turreted white can be seen for miles around.

České Budějovice. Southern Bohemia’s largest city, with a beautiful medieval square and lots of outdoor activities.

PLANNING

WHEN TO GO

Southern Bohemia is a nature lover’s paradise, and in nice weather it seems that the whole country heads here for cycling and hiking trips. Most of the main attractions are closed November through March, as well as Monday year-round, so winter will be quiet, but no less lovely in its snowy way. Many towns will host weekend Christmas markets, so December is a particularly pretty time. Note: roads get congested with weekenders on Friday and Sunday.

GETTING HERE

Trains normally depart from the Hlavní nádraží main station while buses leave from either the main Florenc station or the southern Roztyly station, accessible from a Metro stop on Line C (red). When exploring your transport options, look into private bus lines like RegioJet (also called Student Agency but its services are not just for students). They offer more direct routes, plus free hot drinks and videos onboard. Tickets must be purchased ahead of time; they have a window at the Florenc station.

GUIDED TOURS TO SOUTHERN BOHEMIA

Guided bus tours are available from several companies covering several of the destinations in Southern Bohemia. Most need to be booked at least a day in advance. These are only two of many organizers.

Čedok. The country’s original tour operator offers a variety of longer trips through the region. Experiences include Český Krumlov, a spa visit in Třeboň, and combinations of other cities and even regions. www.cedok.com .

Martin Tours. Information can be found at their booths at Staroměstské náměstí (Old Town Square), náměstí Republiky (Republic Square), Václavské náměstí (Wenceslas Square), and other locations in Prague. Southern Bohemia itineraries can include overnight stays or 10-hour excursions. Destinations include České Budějovice, Hluboká, and Český Krumlov. www.martintour.cz .

RESTAURANTS AND HOTELS

Outside of Prague, prices for food and hotels are lower, but service—especially in functional English—sometimes lags behind. With Austria so close, you are much more likely to find German-language menus in restaurants and German-speaking staff in both restaurants and hotels.

Hotel reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com .

ČESKÝ KRUMLOV

48 km (29 miles) southwest of Třeboň; 186 km (112 miles) south of Prague.

It’s rare that a place not only lives up to its hype but exceeds it. Český Krumlov, the official residence of the Rožmberk family for some 300 years, is such a place. It’s the only must-see in Southern Bohemia, with a storybook landscape so perfect it resembles a movie set. Hordes of other tourists pass through, but if you stay overnight you can experience the city after the tour buses have departed, and in the evening when quiet descends, the town is twice as spellbinding.

Český Krumlov’s lovely looks can be put down to a castle and a river. Krumlov castle is one of the most gorgeous in the country; perched on a hill watching over its quaint village with the Vltava River doing its picturesque winding best. The castle area offers plenty of sightseeing, and the extensive gardens are worth an hour or two. Down in the town, the medieval streets are beyond charming.

As in the rest of Southern Bohemia, outdoor activities are plentiful here. Check with the local tourist information office about places to rent bikes or rafts, or pick up an area hiking map.

GETTING HERE

A direct bus to Český Krumlov leaves Prague from both the Florenc and the Na Knížecí stations. The trip lasts a hair under three hours, and costs 215 Kč. There’s no direct train; with a change at České Budějovice, a train trip clocks in at more than three hours and costs around 190 Kč. Note that the train station is a 20-minute hike from the main square, while the bus station is much closer. Your best choice would be to purchase a bus ticket at least a day or two before travel; Český Krumlov is a popular destination.

Car travel from Prague is fairly straightforward and takes three hours. Simply follow the directions to České Budějovice, and once there follow the signs to Český Krumlov. When you arrive in Český Krumlov you’ll be confronted by a confusing array of public parking areas, with no indication of how close the parking lot is to the Old Town. One safe bet is to use Parking Lot No. 2, which if you follow the tiny lanes as far as they go, will bring you to just behind the town brewery, and an easy 10-minute walk from the main square.

VISITOR INFORMATION

Český Krumlov’s tourist information office is on the main square. Well-versed and extremely helpful, the staff can assist you in everything from what to see to where to go. They can recommend restaurants and hotels as well as book tickets and assist with bus and train schedules, or even boat and bike travel.

The Vltava travel agency is a solid bet if you’re considering outdoor activities. They’ll rent boats and bikes as well as arrange excursions.

Information Český Krumlov Tourist Information. Nám. Svornosti 2 380–704–622 www.ckrumlov.cz . Vltava. Hradební 60 380–711–988 www.ckvltava.cz .

TIMING

Wintertime can be lonely in Český Krumlov, and most of the sites are closed, including the castle. On the flip side, avoid weekends in the summer; hordes of tourists, both Czech and German, flood the streets. Also, midday when the tour buses arrive can be a bit overwhelming. The city holds a Renaissance festival called the Five-Petaled Rose Celebration every June; an Early Music Festival and an International Music Festival in July; an Autumn Fair at the end of September; and a number of holiday events in December.

EXPLORING

TOP ATTRACTIONS

Egon Schiele Center. A large and rambling former brewery now showcases the work of Schiele along with other modern and contemporary Czech and European artists. The Renaissance building, built in three phases in the early 1600s, is a wonder, with soaring ceilings in some places and wooden-beamed rooms in others. Schiele often painted landscapes of Český Krumlov from the castle’s bridge. The museum does close unexpectedly on occasion in winter, but is one of the only sites in town normally open year-round. Široká 71 380–704–011 www.schieleartcentrum.cz 160 Kč .

Fodor’s Choice Hrad Krumlov FAMILY (Krumlov Castle ). Like any good protective fortress, the castle is visible from a distance, but you may wonder how to get there. From the main square, take Radniční Street across the river and head up the staircase on your left from Latrán Street. (Alternatively, you can continue on Latrán and enter via the main gateway, also on your left.) You’ll first come across the oldest part of the castle, a round 13th-century tower renovated in the 16th century to look something like a minaret, with its delicately arcaded Renaissance balcony. Part of the old border fortifications, the tower guarded Bohemian frontiers from the threat of Austrian incursion. It’s now repainted with an educated guess of its Renaissance appearance, since the original designs have long been lost. From dungeon to bells, its inner secrets can be seen climbing the interior staircase. Go ahead and climb to the top; you’ll be rewarded with a view of the castle grounds and across the countryside.

Next up is the moat, fearlessly protected by a pair of brown bears—truthfully not really much help in defending the castle; their moods range from playful to lethargic. But bears have been residents of this moat since 1707. In season, the castle rooms are open to the public. Crossing the bridge, you enter the second courtyard, which contains the ticket office. The Route 1 tour will parade you past the castle chapel, baroque suite, and Renaissance rooms. The highlights here are the 18th-century frescoes in the delightful Maškarní Sál (Masquerade Hall). Route 2 takes you through the portrait gallery and the seigneurial apartments of the Schwarzenbergs, who owned the castle until the Gestapo seized it in 1940. (The castle became state property in 1947.) In summer you can visit the Lapidarium, which includes statues removed from the castle for protection, and the dungeon.

A succession of owners all had the same thing in mind: upgrade the castle a bit more opulently than before. Vilém von Rožmberk oversaw a major refurbishment of the castle, adding buildings, heightening the tower, and adding rich decorations—generally making the place suitable for one of the grandest Bohemians of the day. The castle passed out of the Rožmberks’ hands, however, when Vilém’s brother and last of the line, the dissolute Petr Vok, sold both castle and town to Emperor Rudolf II in 1602 to pay off his debts. Under the succeeding Eggenbergs and Schwarzenbergs the castle continued to be transformed into an opulent palace. The Eggenbergs’ prime addition was a theater, which was begun in the 1680s and completed in 1766 by Josef Adam of Schwarzenberg. Much of the theater and its accoutrements—sets, props, costumes, stage machinery—survive intact as a rare working display of period stagecraft. Theater buffs will appreciate a tour, and tickets should be reserved in advance.

Continuing along outside, the third courtyard bears some beautiful Renaissance frescoes, while the fourth contains the Upper Castle, whose rooms can be visited on the tours. From here you’ll arrive at a wonderfully romantic elevated passageway with spectacular views of the huddled houses of the Old Town. The Austrian expressionist painter Egon Schiele often stayed in Český Krumlov in the early 1900s, and liked to paint this particular view over the river; he titled his Krumlov series Dead City. The middle level here is the most Na plášti (Cloaked Bridge), a massive construction spanning a deep ravine. Below the passageway are three levels of high arches, looking like a particularly elaborate Roman viaduct. At the end of the passageway you come to the theater, then to the nicely appointed castle garden dating from the 17th century. A cascade fountain, groomed walking paths, flowerbeds, and manicured lawns are a restful delight. The famed open-air Revolving Theater is here, as is the Musical Pavilion . If you continue walking away from the castle, the park grows a bit wilder and quieter. Unlike the castle, the courtyards and passageways are open to the public year-round. Zámek 59 380–704–711 www.castle.ckrumlov.cz Castle tours (in English): 250 Kč Route I, 240 Kč Route II. Theater tour (in English) 300 Kč. Tower 50 Kč, castle museum 100 Kč, garden free. Combination discounts available. Included on Český Krumlov Card Castle museum and tower closed Mon. Nov.–Mar.; no castle tours Mon. Apr.–Oct.; theater closed Nov.–mid-May; garden closed Nov.–Mar.

WORTH NOTING

Hotel Růže. Gorgeous sgraffiti façades decorate this former Jesuit school, now the Hotel Růže. Abundant Renaissance flourishes point to the fact that the city used to be on the Bavarian-Italian trade route. Be sure to visit the parking area (really!); the view is perfect. Horní 154 ruze.hotel.cz .

Kostel svatého Víta (St. Vitus’s Church ). This neo-Gothic church with its octagonal tower provides a nice contrast with the castle’s older tower across the river. Step inside to see the elaborate baptismal font and frescoes. Much reconstruction took place in the 17th and 18th centuries; however, the Gothic entrance portal dates to 1410. Kostelní ul. www.farnostck.bcb.cz .

Museum Fotoatelier Seidel (Seidel Photographic Studio Museum ). Head across the other side of the river from the castle and explore a more lived-in side of the city. This refurbished home used to belong to photographer Josef Seidel, and is now a museum dedicated to his work and the history of photography. The exhibit is a fascinating mix of home and workplace, with period furnishings plus photographic studio. The building itself is lovely, and includes a picturesque garden, and photography lovers will enjoy the historic camera collection plus samples of Seidel’s work. Linecká 272 380–712–354 www.seidel.cz 100 Kč plus 30 Kč to take photographs; discount with Český Krumlov Card Closed Mon. Jan.–Mar.

Náměstí Svornosti (Unity Square ). A little oddly shaped, yes, but a “square” nonetheless; Unity Square should be home base for your explorations. Pick a street and head off into the tiny alleys that fan out in all directions. There’s no real sense in “planning” your route, simply choose a direction and go—you’ll end up where you started eventually. Each turn seems to bring a new charming vista, and cute buildings and shops will amuse and keep shutterbugs busy. Don’t forget to look up in the direction of the castle every once in a while; it pokes through in some amazing places. The actual square has a couple of notable buildings, including the Town Hall with its Renaissance friezes and Gothic arcades. Ceský Krumlov .

Regionální muzeum (Regional Museum ). From the main square, a street called Horní ulice leads off toward the regional museum. A quick visit gets you acquainted with the history of the region from prehistoric times. A ceramic model of the city is one of the highlights. Horní 152 380–711–674 www.museum-krumlov.eu 50 Kč, discount with Český Krumlov Card .

WHERE TO EAT

Fodor’s Choice Na Louži. $$ CZECH Czech comfort food is served up every night at Na Louži. Lovingly preserved wood furniture and paneling lend a traditional touch to this warm, inviting, family-run pub. The food is unfussy yet satisfying. Look for the Czech specialties on the menu. (The 10 country-style rooms upstairs [$] are basic and cheap, perfect for a one-night stay; breakfast is included.) Average main: 200 Kč Kájovská 66 380–711–280 www.hospodanalouzi.cz No credit cards Reservations essential .

WHERE TO STAY

It seems you can’t walk two blocks in Český Krumlov without stumbling over a pension or place offering private rooms. Even with this plethora, you’ll need to book ahead May through September, when it’s high season. Prices can be on a level with some Prague hotels, and definitely more expensive than in neighboring cities.

Bellevue. $ HOTEL The façade of a 16th-century bakery gives way to a modern hotel with all the standard accessories. Pros: close to the castle; plentiful services available through the hotel. Cons: small breakfast room. Rooms from: 1400 Kč Latrán 77 380–720–177 www.bellevuehotels.cz 59 rooms Breakfast .

Hotel Dvořák. $$ HOTEL Wonderful views of the castle and river are the main selling points of this centrally located and quaint hotel. Pros: nice views; smack-dab central location. Cons: old-fashioned interior design; the hotel restaurant could be better. Rooms from: 3900 Kč Radniční 101 380–711–020 www.hoteldvorak.com 22 rooms, 4 apartments Breakfast .

Fodor’s Choice Hotel Růže. $$ HOTEL Converted from a Jesuit school, this excellent centrally located hotel with spacious rooms is a two-minute walk from the main square. Pros: central location; great views; quality restaurant. Cons: inconsistent bed layouts; baroque decorations are a bit overdone. Rooms from: 3050 Kč Horní 154 380–772–100 www.hotelruze.cz 71 rooms Breakfast .

Hotýlek & Hospoda u malého Vítka. $ HOTEL Rooms are cleverly named after Czech fairy tales, with simple wooden furniture and fittings, and the folklore spirit extends throughout this hotel located between the main square and the castle. Pros: whimsical spirit; great value for the money. Cons: limited in-room amenities; rooms are simple and pared down; cramped bathrooms. Rooms from: 1600 Kč Radniční 27 380–711–925 www.vitekhotel.cz 20 rooms Breakfast .

PERFORMING ARTS

Český Krumlov is a hotbed of cultural activity in summer. Events range from Renaissance fairs to music festivals. Activities to note include the International Music Festival held at the castle in July and August and summer performances at the open-air Revolving Theater. Opera and theater companies from České Budějovice perform here. Tickets can be prebooked (almost a necessity) by visiting www.otacivehlediste.cz , or check with the tourist information offices in either Český Krumlov or České Budějovice. The website also has information on an app called Overtekst that allows people to follow a translation of the show’s dialogue on a phone or tablet that runs an Android OS. The Český Krumlov office can also tell you about any other concerts or events happening while you are in town.

EN ROUTE

Hrad Rožmberk (Rosenberg Castle ). This sprawling castle overlooks the Vltava River, about 20 km (12 miles) south of Český Krumlov. Inside, on the main tour, you’ll see a mix of Romantic and Renaissance interiors; portraits of crusaders; and the Rosenberg Hall, dedicated to the family’s history. The second route shows the apartments of aristocrats. The English Tower is a 200-step climb, and rewards with beautiful vistas of the countryside. English-language tours on Routes 1 and 2 are available for groups only. The basement has a Museum of Capital Justice, but the information is only in Czech. Buses run from Český Krumlov’s main depot but are infrequent on weekends. Legend has it that the ghost of a White Lady appears from time to time. Rožmberk nad Vltavou 380–749–838 www.hrad-rozmberk.eu Castle tours (in English): 180 Kč Route 1, 130 Kč Route 2. Museum of Capital Justice 50 Kč, tower 40 Kč No Route 1 tour Mon., and Nov.–Mar.; no Route 2 tour Mon., and Dec. Museum of Capital Punishment closed Sept.–May .

NIGHTLIFE

Cikánská jizba. If you’re in town on a Friday night, head over to this tiny Romany-owned pub; the name translates to Gypsy Tavern. Romany musicians play and Czechs pack the place for locally made cold beer. It can get very crowded, but there are no reservations. Dlouhá 31 www.cikanskajizba.cz .

TÁBOR

90 km (54 miles) south of Prague.

Looking at Tábor now, it’s hard to believe that this was once a counterculture utopia and fortress. Lucky for visitors a few centuries later, the town has retained all this turbulent history in its design and buildings.

In the 15th century the town began as an encampment for religious reformers centered on the teachings of the anti-Catholic firebrand preacher Jan Hus. After Hus was burned at the stake in Constance, his followers came here by the thousands to build a society opposed to the excesses of Rome and modeled on the primitive communities of the early Christians. Tábor quickly evolved into the Hussites’ symbolic and spiritual center, and along with Prague served as the bulwark of the religious reform movement.

The 1420s in Tábor were heady days for the reformers. Private property was denounced, and the many poor who made the pilgrimage to Tábor were required to leave their possessions at the town gates. Some sects rejected the doctrine of transubstantiation (the belief that the Eucharistic elements become the body and blood of Christ), turning Holy Communion into a bawdy, secular feast of bread and wine. Other reformers considered themselves superior to Christ—who by dying had shown himself to be merely mortal.

War fever in Tábor ran high, and the town became one of the focal points of the Hussite Wars (1419–34), which pitted reformers against an array of foreign crusaders, Catholics, and noblemen. Military general Jan Žižka led the charge fairly successfully, but the Church proved to be stronger and wealthier. Many of the reformists’ victories were assisted by the strategic location of Tábor, which with its hilltop position and river boundary made it virtually impregnable. And what nature didn’t provide, the residents did. The town was well fortified and there was an ingenious system of underground tunnels (whether they were used to hide in or to store food in is disputed). The streets were purposely laid out in a crooked and confusing manner to thwart invaders. Glimpses of this past can still be seen, and make Tábor one of the more interesting places to visit.

GETTING HERE

Direct buses and trains to Tábor are available, and both take about 1½ hours. Buses leave from the Florenc station and cost about 100 Kč; trains cost about 129 Kč and depart from Hlavní nádraží. By car, the distance is about 90 km (56 miles) and should take a little more than an hour. You’ll take the E55 heading south toward České Budějovice.

Visitor Information Tábor Tourist Information. Žižkovo nám. 2 381–486–230 www.tabor.cz .

TIMING

Tábor is rarely overrun with tourists, which makes it a relaxing place to see. It’s a popular spot with cyclists, and summers always bring a few more people. The South Bohemian Music Festival is held each July. There’s also a Christmas market in December. Their big event is the Tábor Meeting Days, held at the beginning of September. This fun medieval festival is incredibly popular. Crafts, music, entertainers, and food all pack into the main square; there’s even a parade.

EXPLORING

Hrad Kotnov (Kotnov Castle ). Rising above the river in the distance, this castle dates to the 13th century and was part of Tábor’s earliest fortifications. After a fire in the early 1600s the castle was rebuilt as a brewery. You can visit the tower, which the Hussites used for storing artillery, as well as Bechyňská brána (Bechyně Gate). This is the last city gate still standing, and has been preserved in its original High Gothic style. Inside is an exhibit titled Life and Work of Medieval Society. Night tours of the castle and tower are sometimes available. Klokotská 381–252–242 www.husitskemuzeum.cz Tower and gate 30 Kč Closed Oct.–Apr.

Husitské muzeum (Hussite Museum ). You can find out all you ever wanted to know about the Hussite movement and the founding and history of the city. The museum is housed in the Old Town Hall, a building that dates back to the early 1500s. You can also enter the extensive labyrinth of tunnels below the Old Town here. A tour of the tunnels takes about 20 minutes. There’s also a Gothic Hall and occasional short-term exhibits. Žižkovo nám. 1 381–252–242 www.husitskemuzeum.cz Museum tour 60 Kč, tunnel tour 50 Kč, Gothic Hall 20 Kč; combined tour 100 Kč Closed Sun.–Tues. Oct.–May .

Pražská ulice. The main route to the newer part of town, this street is delightfully lined with beautiful Renaissance façades. If you turn right at Divadelní and head to the Lužnice River, you can see the remaining walls and fortifications of the 15th century, evidence of the town’s function as a vital stronghold.

Žižkovo náměstí (Žižka Square ). There’s no doubt who this square belongs to—a bronze statue of Jan Žižka dominates the area and clearly points to its Hussite past. The stone tables in front of the Gothic town hall and the house at No. 6 date to the 15th century, and were used by the Hussites to give daily communion to the faithful. Many fine houses that line the square bear plaques describing their architectural style and original purpose. Be sure to stroll the tiny streets around the square, as they curve around, branch off, and then stop; few lead back to the main square. This bemusing layout, created in the 15th century, was designed to thwart incoming invaders. Tábor .

WHERE TO EAT

Havana. $$ AMERICAN Right on the square, this café-bar has a superb atmosphere, if oddly resembling an English pub, and serves up tasty plates of steaks, grilled meat, burgers, and chicken. Average main: 200 Kč Žižkovo nám. 17 381–253–383 www.kafehavana.cz .

WHERE TO STAY

Dvořák. $ HOTEL A bit outside the city center, this former brewery building has been thoroughly renovated into one of the nicest places in town. Pros: modern rooms; efficient, helpful staff; on-site beer spa. Cons: can be busy during conferences. Rooms from: 1800 Kč Hradební 3037 381–207–211 www.dvoraktabor.cz 72 rooms, 12 suites Breakfast .

Fodor’s Choice Nautilus. $$ HOTEL This tasteful boutique hotel on the edge of Tábor’s charming central square exhibits touches of Bohemian craftsmanship in the architecture, beautiful antiques in the rooms, and elegant, original art on the walls (think shells). Pros: great eats; best address in town; rooms with genuine Bohemian flair. Cons: some rooms are a little dark; breakfast spread not as great as the food at the restaurant. Rooms from: 2850 Kč Žižkovo nám. 20 380–900–900 www.hotelnautilus.cz 22 rooms Breakfast .

PÍSEK

44 km (28 miles) west of Tábor; 103 km (62 miles) south of Prague.

Písek is a bit of a surprise. It used to be that people came for one thing: Písek’s 700-year-old Gothic bridge peopled with baroque statues. But a recent infusion of European Union funds has introduced some beautiful upgrades. The former mill and power station is now a museum dedicated to electricity, and a former malt house is a cultural house and art museum. There’s a promenade that runs along the river beside the old city wall, and the square around the church is nothing short of lovely. They’ve changed the former Gothic moat into a tiny park, and even the city museum displays some interesting finds.

GETTING HERE

Buses leave from Prague’s Na Knížecí station, and will take you there for around 100 Kč in approximately 90 minutes. Trains leave from Prague’s Hlavní nádraží and cost 225 Kč, with the trip taking over two hours. If you drive, the trip should take no more than 90 minutes.

Visitor Information Písek Tourist Information. Velké nám. 113 387–999–999 www.pisek.eu .

TIMING

Písek means “sand,” and back before the city was a city, people used to pan for gold in the river. From mid-May to the beginning of June the city displays sand sculptures honoring their namesake. There’s a town festival every June and a folklore festival at the end of August.

EXPLORING

Gothic Bridge. Once the city’s only claim to fame, this bridge is a site to see. It was built in the 1260s—making it the oldest bridge in the Czech Republic, surpassing Prague’s Charles Bridge by 90 years. Not too shabby. Přemysl Otakar II commissioned it, seeking a secure crossing for his salt shipments over the difficult-to-ford Otava River. As early as the 9th century, Písek stood at the center of one of the most important trade routes to the west, linking Prague to Passau and the rest of Bavaria. In the 15th century it became one of five major Hussite strongholds. The statues of saints weren’t added to the bridge until the 18th century. During the devastating floods of 2002 one of the statues was damaged, and all the paving stones washed away, but divers recovered most of the lost pieces. The statues on the bridge are not the originals. You can reach the bridge from třída Národní svobody on the left bank or Karlova Street from the right bank. Karlova St.

Mariánský chrám (Church of the Virgin ). Just off the main square, this church is the highlight of the recently renovated Bakaláře Square. You can’t miss the 240-foot tower, which is open for a climb. Construction began in the late 1200s, about the time the bridge was built. The lone surviving tower was completed in 1487. On the inside, look for the Madonna of Písek, a 14th-century Gothic altar painting. On a middle pillar is a rare series of early-Gothic wall paintings dating from the end of the 13th century. ■ TIP → Ask about a tower visit at the Písek Tourist Information Center. Bakaláře at Leoše Janáčka www.farnostpisek.cz .

Prácheňské Muzeum. Inside a 13th-century castle’s frescoed medieval halls, this museum documents the history of Písek and its surroundings, including the Czech fishing industry (with the additional original touch of live fish in large aquarium) and the history of local gold panning and mining in the nearby hills. There are two galleries devoted to temporary exhibits. Everything is in Czech, but ask for an info sheet in English. Velké nám. 114 382–201–111 www.prachenskemuzeum.cz 40 Kč, 20 Kč fee for photography Closed Mon., and Jan. and Feb.

Sladovna. FAMILY Písek has a brewing history dating back to the Middle Ages. This malt house was built in the 19th century, and continued producing malt for 100 years. In 2008 the city opened Sladovna, a cultural facility that houses two permanent exhibitions and five showrooms for temporary ones. There’s a spot for inspired kids to color, a reading area, plus an igloo that shows fairy tales. It’s all in Czech, but children should appreciate the bright colors and great graphics. Velké nám. 113 387–999–999 www.sladovna.cz 120 Kč .

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel Biograf. $ HOTEL A design-conscious hotel with an award-winning restaurant is a rare find in Písek; don’t be put off by the plain exterior, the interior is surprisingly modern. Pros: large rooms; good location; all amenities. Cons: exterior low on charm; not a lot in the area to keep you overnight. Rooms from: 1800 Kč Gregorova 124 380–425–510 www.hotelbiograf.com 44 rooms, 3 suites Breakfast .

EN ROUTE

Zvíkov. In a country overrun with castles, Zvíkov lays claim to being the most famous early Gothic one. Everyone needs its marketing hook, but Zvíkov is interesting enough thanks to its location on two rivers and its authenticity. Unlike many other castles in Bohemia, this one survived the 18th and 19th centuries without renovation, and still looks exactly as it did 500 years ago. If you have the time, you can cycle here from Písek or jump on a boat and float downriver to another nearby castle, Orlík. Rte. 138, 18 km (11 miles) north of Písek 382–285–676 www.hrad-zvikov.eu 70 Kč Closed Mon., and Nov.–Mar.

TŘEBOŇ

48 km (28 miles) south of Tábor; 138 km (83 miles) south of Prague.

Třeboň, like Tábor, is off the international tourist trail, but it’s a favorite with cyclists. And the town offers an appealing mix of adorable old buildings and authentic workaday local life.

Třeboň itself is a charming jewel box of a town. It was settled during the 12th century by the Wittkowitzes (later called the Rožmberks, or Rosenbergs), once Bohemia’s noblest family. You can see their emblem, a five-petal rose, on castles, doorways, and coats of arms all over the region. Their official residence was 40 km (25 miles) to the southwest, in Český Krumlov, but Třeboň was an important second residence and repository of the family archives, which still reside in the town’s château. The main square, Masarykovo náměstí, is a pleasing arrangement of baroque and Renaissance structures. Various markets pop up here all through the summer, and the Town Hall has notable frescoes.

To Czechs, Třeboň and carp are almost synonymous. If you’re in the area in late autumn, you may be lucky enough to witness the great carp harvests, when tens of thousands of the glittering fish are netted from ponds in the surrounding area. Traditionally, they are served breaded and fried as the centerpiece of Christmas Eve dinner. But regardless of the season, you’ll find carp on every menu in town. Don’t be afraid to order it; the carp here are not the notorious bottom-feeders they are elsewhere, but are raised in clean ponds and served as a fresh catch with none of that muddy aftertaste.

One of the most pleasant activities here is a walk around the Rybník Svět (World Pond), an easy 12-km (7½-mile) trail that takes you through grassy fields and forests. When taking the walk (or as a destination itself), visit the Schwarzenberg Family Vault. Built in English Gothic style; it’s a bit startling at first, but then seems to blend into its woody environs. If you’d rather not walk, 45-minute boat tours go around the lake about once an hour (in season and weather permitting). There’s a variety of other walks and lots of cycle paths in the region; ask at the tourist information office for recommended routes and maps.

Along with the ponds, the region is known for its peat bogs. This has given rise to a local spa industry, and wellness weekends are popular attractions at the city’s two main spas; Bertiny Lázně ( 384–754–111 www.berta.cz ) and Lázně Aurora ( 800–611–009 www.aurora.cz ). A variety of treatments are on offer, but both do peat massages. A dip in the iron-rich squishy substance is supposed to help with arthritis and other joint problems. But the sensation and smell are acquired tastes.

GETTING HERE

There is no direct bus service to Třeboň. Trains depart from the main station, and a change will be required in Veselí and cost around 190 Kč. Be sure to ask to go to the Třeboň lázné station versus the main Třeboň station, and save yourself a 20-minute walk into town.

Visitor Information Třeboň Tourist Information. Masarykovo nám. 103 384–721–169 www.itrebon.cz .

EXPLORING

Bílý Koníček. Look for the Little White Horse, the best-preserved Renaissance house on the square, dating to 1544. It’s now a modest hotel and restaurant—the perfect spot to enjoy some excellent local beer. Masarykovo nám. 97 384–721–213 bilykonicekhotel.cz .

Kostel svatého Jiljí (Church of St. Giles ). The Gothic style of South Bohemia is exemplified in this curious church. The unassuming exterior gives no clue to the vastness inside, nor the treasures it holds. Paintings in Czech Gothic style can be found by the main altar, also other artwork and frescoes dating as far back as the late 15th century. Husova .

Zámek Třeboň (Třeboň Château ). The entrance to this château lies at the southwest corner of the square. From the outside the white walls make it appear restrained, but the inner courtyard is covered with sgraffito. There’s a variety of tours of the interior, which boasts sumptuous re-creations of the Renaissance lifestyle enjoyed by the Rožmberks and apartments furnished in late-19th-century splendor. The gardens adjacent to the castle are well maintained and free to stroll in. The last of the Rožmberks died in 1611, and the castle eventually became the property of the Schwarzenberg family, who built their family tomb in a grand park on the other side of Svět Pond. It’s now a monumental neo-Gothic destination for Sunday-afternoon picnickers. It’s well worth the easy stroll along the lake to visit this tomb; summer concerts are held here occasionally. In the summer you can tour inside of a kitchen for preparing dogs’ meals, a stable and casemates (part of the fortifications) with tunnels. The dogs’ kitchen is a rarity and was for the noble family’s pampered pets and working dogs. Masarykovo nám. 384–721–193 www.zamek-trebon.eu Tour of family tomb 100 Kč with English explanation; tour of apartments 180 Kč; tour of renaissance interiors 180 Kč; casemates, stable, dog kitchen 70 Kč; Schwarzenberg tomb 60 Kč Closed Mon., and Nov.–mid-Mar.; casemates closed Sept.–June .

WHERE TO EAT

Šupinka. $$ MODERN EUROPEAN In a city surrounded by fish; this is where the locals come to enjoy theirs. A stylish interior with floor-to-ceiling wooden arches and a small terrace serve as the backdrops to some creative cooking. There are some interesting chicken and pork dishes. Still, the majority of the menu focuses on kapr (carp), including a “demon” carp filled with Dijon mustard and chilies, and grass carp with lard and onions. There is a sister restaurant called Šupina nearby. Average main: 290 Kč Valy 56 384–721–149 www.supina.cz Reservations essential .

WHERE TO STAY

The tourist information center on the square is very helpful when it comes to booking rooms. They also offer a catalog of hotel options that includes amenities and prices to help narrow your choice.

Romantick. $ HOTEL “Flower power” is the theme at this boutique hotel, as each room is named and designed after a flower; and some also offer nice views of the city. Pros: lots of amenities for this area. Cons: on the outskirts of the city, in an unattractive area; not all rooms have air-conditioning. Rooms from: 1390 Kč K Bertě 183 725–135–888 www.romantick.cz 26 rooms Breakfast .

JINDŘICHŮV HRADEC

28 km (17 miles) southwest of Trěboň; 158 km (95 miles) south of Prague.

The ancient town of Jindřichův Hradec, which dates to the end of the 12th century, is mirrored in the reflective waters of the Vajgar Pond right in the town’s center. Originally a market colony near the border between Bohemia and Moravia, the town acquired a castle to protect it, and it’s the main attraction here as the third-largest castle in the country. (The interior, now an administrative center, is less interesting.) Other attractions include a town square with Gothic, Renaissance, and some baroque aspects, a regional museum, and excursions into the countryside.

Like other South Bohemian towns, this region is a popular spot for cyclists and hikers. If the countryside appeals to you but you’re lacking the footpower to explore it, hitch a ride on the Narrow Gauge Railway ( www.jhmd.cz ). Trains depart daily in July and August from the city’s main train station. The rails are a mere 760 millimeters apart, and the route winds south nearly to the border with Austria.

GETTING HERE

Jindřichův Hradec is about three hours from Prague. The train from Prague’s Hlavní nádraží (main station) will require a change at Veselí. It costs about 215 Kč. There is no good direct bus connection.

Visitor Information Jindřichův Hradec Tourist Information. Panská 136 384–363–546 infocentrum.jh.cz .

TIMING

A laid-back vibe flows through Jindřichův Hradec. Winters feel isolated, but summers bring lots of cyclists to the area. The Day of the City festival is held at the castle every June, while the big summertime festivities happen during the Folk Rose Festival in mid-July.

EXPLORING

Jindřichův Hradec’s Castle. As the third-largest castle in the Czech Republic, this is the dominant structure in town, holding 300 rooms and 10,000 pieces of art. Behind the courtyard and its elegant Italian arcades, the castle’s core is pure Gothic splendor, reflected not only in its thick defensive walls and round tower but also in the frescoes covering interior corridors. Colorful examples of medieval coats of arms and a panorama depicting the legend of St. George date to 1338. Over the course of centuries, buildings of an adjoining Renaissance-era château were added to the early Gothic castle, together forming a large complex. There are three different marked routes through the castle for visitors to follow. Tour A is best for design lovers: you’ll visit the Adam building, which includes glimpses of Renaissance, baroque, rococo, Empire, and classical styles, as well as see numerous paintings from a previous owner’s vast collection. Tour B takes you to the castle’s Gothic and medieval core, the Chapel of the Holy Spirit, and the Royal Hall. Tour C offers the opportunity to visit 18th- and 19th-century apartments as well as the Rondel, a bit of an architectural oddity set in this Gothic scene, designed by an Italian in the 16th century. The official term for the decor is “European Mannerism,” but it really resembles a big pink cake with confectionary images of aristocratic dancers and musicians. Built as a ballroom, this space still hosts the occasional concert. Wander the exterior courtyards for free, or simply climb the Black Tower for a view of the castle and surrounding area. Dobrovského 1 384–321–279 www.zamek-jindrichuvhradec.eu Castle tours (in Czech only): 100 Kč Tour A, 90 Kč Tour B, 90 Kč Tour C. Black Tower 30 Kč Closed Mon., and Nov.–Apr.

Kostel Nanebevzetí Panny Marie (Church of the Ascension of Our Lady ). Dating to the second half of the 14th century, this church and its tower are the other dominating features of the city’s skyline. It’s a Gothic triple-nave church with some interesting elements, including a Gothic Madonna from the beginning of the 15th century. By coincidence, the church straddles the 15th meridian, and you’ll see a line marking the point. The city tower is also open for those wishing to scale 157 steps for an extensive view of the surrounding area. Za kostelem Tower 20 Kč Tower closed Oct.–Mar., and weekdays in Apr., May, and Sept.

Kostel svatého Jana Křtitele (Church of St. John the Baptist ). The oldest church in town, built between the 13th and 16th centuries, this is an excellent example of Bohemian Gothic architecture. Inside, extensive frescoes in the clerestory date to the first half of the 14th century, and portray scenes from the lives of Christ, the Apostles, and various Czech saints. They also demonstrate the medieval necessity for pictorial narratives in educating the illiterate population. On the south side of the sanctuary you can see the Chapel of St. Nicholas, built in 1369. The vaulted ceiling is supported by a single central pillar; this is one of the earliest buildings using this construction in Bohemia. The church is open to the public in July and August; the adjacent monastery is now part of the city museum, and hosts temporary exhibitions. Štítného 30 Kč Closed Sept.–June .

Muzeum Jindřichohradecka. Founded in 1882, this museum’s big draw is its impressive Nativity scene. The huge, mechanical créche was built by one committed craftsman, Mr. Krýza, who dedicated more than 60 years to its creation in the latter part of the 19th century. The old mechanism has now been replaced with an electrical system, but the primitive charm of the moving figures remains. Amazingly, the scene contains 1,398 figures. Other exhibitions in the former Jesuit seminary include an apothecary. Balbínovo nám. 19 384–363–660 www.mjh.cz 60 Kč, exhibitions 20 Kč Closed Mon. Apr.–Dec.

Národní muzeum fotografie (National Photography Museum ). This former Jesuit college now houses the foremost photography institution in the country. Reconstructed interiors rival the photos on display—the wall and ceiling frescoes have been lovingly restored. The permanent collection includes more than 200 photos donated by Czech photographers. Attached to the museum is the Chapel of St. Mary Magdalene, which occasionally hosts concerts. Kostelní 20 384–362–459 www.mfmom.cz 90 Kč Closed Mon., and Jan.–Mar.

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel Bílá paní. $ HOTEL Situated next to the castle, this cozy hotel takes its name from a ghost legend—and its otherwise comfortable rooms are alleged to be haunted. Pros: cheap and cheerful; castle views. Cons: rooms are sweet but spare; bathroom size and placement is a bit unorthodox. Rooms from: 1340 Kč Dobrovského 5 384–363–329 www.hotelbilapani.cz 11 rooms Breakfast .

Hotel Concertino. $ HOTEL Right on the town square, this historical-looking hotel with a modern interior lets you spring directly into sightseeing action. Pros: near the town square; expressive furnishings; plentiful services for business travelers. Cons: decor is expressive but not necessarily cohesive; restaurant is hit or miss. Rooms from: 1350 Kč Nám. Míru 141 384–362–320 www.concertino.cz 31 rooms, 3 suites Breakfast .

HLUBOKÁ NAD VLTAVOU

17 km (10½ miles) southwest of Třeboň; 155 km (93½ miles) south of Prague.

Yes, Hluboká has a massive fairy-tale castle that can be seen for miles around. But active outdoorsy types should come here for the excellent sport center that offers tennis, golf, an adrenaline center, and more. Cycling is easy for a brief nature break.

GETTING HERE

The journey from Prague to Hluboká—either by train from the Hlavní nádraží (main station) or by bus from the Florenc station—is 2½ hours unless you get one of the local connections that stops in every small town (in which case the trip takes 3½ hours). The train ticket costs about 250 Kč, the bus ticket 170 Kč; both require a change in České Budějovice. There is also a direct bus from the Roztyly depot in Prague for about 160 Kč. You may find it more convenient to stay overnight in České Budějovice and see the castle in the morning after a 10-minute train trip. Alternatively, there’s a 10-km (6-mile) cycle path.

Visitor Information Hluboká nad Vltavou Tourist Center. Zborovská 80 387–966–164 www.hluboka.cz .

EXPLORING

Lovecká chata Ohrada FAMILY (Ohrada Hunting Lodge ). Care for a brisk walk? Follow the yellow trail signs 2 km (1 mile) to the Ohrada Hunting Lodge, which houses a museum of hunting and fishing and is near a small children’s zoo. ■ TIP → The lodge and the zoo have the same entrance. Zamék Ohrada 1, off Rte. 105 387–965–340 www.nzm.cz/​en/​ohrada 90 Kč, individual exhibits 50 Kč Closed Feb., Mar., Nov., and Dec., and Mon. Apr.–June, Sept., and Oct.

Fodor’s Choice Státní zámek Hluboká (State Château Hluboká ). Hluboká’s main focus is its castle, with a cluster of white towers flanking its walls, and tour groups pop in and out regularly. Although the structure dates to the 13th century, what you see is pure 19th-century excess, perpetrated by the wealthy Schwarzenberg family attempting to prove their good taste. If you think you’ve seen this castle somewhere before, you’re probably thinking of Windsor Castle, near London, which served as the template. Take a tour; the happy hodgepodge of styles in the interior reflects the no-holds-barred tastes of the time. On Tour A you’ll see representative rooms, including the stunning morning salon and library. Tour B brings you into the private apartments and hunting salon, while Tour C takes in the kitchen. Tour D is available daily only in July and August, and weekends only in June and September, and shows off the tower and chapel. Check out the wooden Renaissance ceiling in the large dining room, which was removed by the Schwarzenbergs from the castle at Český Krumlov and brought here. Also look for the beautiful late-baroque bookshelves in the library. The gardens are free to wander in. Zamék 142 387–843–911 www.zamek-hluboka.eu Tour A: 250 Kč. Tour B: 230 Kč. Tour C: 170 Kč. Winter tour: 230 Kč (tours with English commentary, audio headsets also available). Tour D: 40 Kč Closed Mon. Sept.–June .

Galerie Mikolaše Alše (Aleš Art Gallery ). Located near the chateau, the region’s museum for art history displays a variety of works including sculpture, paintings, and porcelain. It’s one of the most extensive collections of Gothic art in the country, and temporary exhibitions range from modern to contemporary. Hluboká nad Vltavou čp. 144 www.ajg.cz 70 Kč .

Sportovnĕ relaxačni areál (Sport-Relax Area ). Hluboká is working hard to offer visitors something beyond their castle, and this extensive sports complex is a complete change of pace. Here you can golf, play tennis or volleyball, rent Rollerblades or other sports equipment, test your bravery (and fitness level) in the “adrenaline park” (think a massive ropes course, unicycles, and a bungee trampoline), watch the local hockey team play in the stadium, or even catch a baseball game or soccer match. The park offers a playground for kids, plus a restaurant with a huge terrace. It backs up to the woods, so you can take off for a short hike as well. There’s also a restaurant and a hotel. Sportovní 1276 723–584–866 www.sport-hluboka.cz Sports center closed Mon.–Thurs. Apr.–Oct.; restaurant closed Apr.–May and Mon. in Oct.

ČESKÉ BUDĚJOVICE

26 km (16 miles) southwest of Třeboň; 164 km (99 miles) south of Prague.

České Budějovice is the largest city in Southern Bohemia, but it’s more of a transportation hub and not nearly as charming as the neighboring towns. Still, a couple of interesting spots ensure that you won’t be bored if you have a stopover, and you probably will. Schedule a couple of extra hours for a wander through the Old Town and a lunch break, and pause to sip the locally brewed Budvar.

The enormously proportioned main square, named after King Přemysl Otakar II, is lined with arcaded houses. The stunning Old Town Hall is from the 16th century. Designed by an Italian, it has bells in the tower that chime old South Bohemian tunes at the top of every hour. Another attraction is the central fountain from the 18th century. Be sure to look for the “magic stone,” the lone cobblestone in the brick-covered square. Legend has it that if you step on this stone after 10 pm, you’ll become lost. But the town’s real claim to fame is its beer—the slightly sweet-ish Budvar.

GETTING HERE

The trip from Prague takes about two hours by either bus or train. Be careful to choose a rychlík (express train), not an osobní (passenger train), which would make your journey four hours. Trains leave from the Hlavní nádraží (main station) and cost about 165 Kč; buses leave from both Florenc and Na Knížecí and cost 165 Kč–170 Kč. Car travel (about 2½ hours) affords the greatest ease and flexibility. České Budějovice lies on the main artery through the region, the two-lane E55 south from Prague, which, though often crowded, is in relatively good shape.

Visitor Information České Budějovice Tourist Center. Nám. Přemysla Otakára II 2 386–801–413 www.c-budejovice.cz .

EXPLORING

Budějovický Budvar brewery. Tours of the brewery start at the modern glass-enclosed visitor center. On the 60-minute route, you’ll see the wells that source the water, the brew house, and other parts of the process up to the bottling plant. A beer tasting is included at the end of the tour. Advanced booking (online) is required. Karolíny Světlé 4 387–705–347 www.visitbudvar.cz 120 Kč Closed Sun.–Mon. Jan–Feb.

Černá věž (Black Tower ). To get a good view over the city, climb the 225 steps up to the Renaissance gallery of the Black Tower at the northeast corner of the square next to St. Nicholas’s Cathedral. Don’t look for a Black Tower; it’s actually white, but got the nickname after a fire left some charred marks. Nám. Přemysla Otakara II 30 Kč Closed Nov.–Mar., and Mon. Apr.–Oct .

Jihočeské Museum. You can’t miss the imposing neo-Renaissance building of the Museum of Southern Bohemia. It was originally founded in 1877 in a small building next to the town hall, but generous donors flooded the facility with so many artifacts that the space had to be expanded. The major exhibits include theme collections portraying the history of the town and the region through an extensive variety of artifacts including metalwork, ceramics, glass, and furniture. A fascinating large-scale model shows the Old Town and its picturesque medieval walls and towers. A regular series of temporary exhibits also runs alongside the permanent ones. Dukelská 1 391–001–531 www.muzeumcb.cz 60 Kč Closed Mon.

Koněspřežka. A source of pride for České Budějovice, Koněspřežka is the oldest railway station on the continent. Designed to transport salt to Bohemia from Linz in Austria, a horse-drawn railway was built between 1825 and 1832. One of the first major industrial developments in Europe, it reduced the journey between Linz and České Budějovice from two weeks to four days. Public transport was introduced soon afterward. The station is now a part of the city museum, and houses an exhibit dedicated to the horse-drawn railroad. You can also pick up a brochure from the tourist office that details other buildings throughout town that played a role in the transport. Mánesova 10 386–354–820 www.muzeumcb.cz 30 Kč Closed Mon.

WHERE TO EAT

Masné krámy. $$ CZECH Operated by the Budvar brewery, the restaurant—a former butcher’s market—aims for an upscale yet casual atmosphere with reasonably priced food and is now one of the best restaurants in town. It specializes in great Czech food and serves unpasteurized Budvar beer; fish and game are also on the menu. Average main: 200 Kč Krajinská 13 387–201–301 www.masne-kramy.cz Reservations essential .

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel Budweis. $$ HOTEL Situated next to the river in a former mill, this beautifully restored grand hotel has exposed wooden beams, polished floors, and loads of natural light. Pros: nicest hotel in town. Cons: cheaper options available. Rooms from: 2990 Kč Mlýnská 6 389–822–111 www.hotelbudweis.cz 59 rooms, 1 suite Breakfast .

PERFORMING ARTS

The city has its own theater, ballet, opera, and orchestra that put on a variety of performances throughout the year. The South Bohemian Theater is also the group that organizes the July and August performances at the Revolving Theater in Český Krumlov. Tickets sell out fast. You can reserve online at www.cbsystem.cz . Dr. Stejskala 23 386–356–925 www.jihoceskedivadlo.cz .

EN ROUTE

Holašovice. Peppered with small country homes and farmsteads, this traditional Czech village is so well preserved it’s been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hardly touched by reconstruction or modern meddling, some of the houses date back to the town’s founding in the 13th century. Don’t expect grand chateaus or extensive decoration; this is “rural baroque,” but every bit as picturesque with custard-yellow façades. The information center at No. 43 has a small exhibit about rural life. Budget about an hour for a visit, or longer if you’d like to enjoy traditional fare at Špejchar u Vojty ( Holašovice 3 777–621–221 ; May–Oct. ). Every July a “peasant” festival, Selské slavnosti, is held with traditional crafts and entertainment. Holasovice, Holasovice 387–982–145 for tourist office www.holasovice.eu Tourist Information Office closed Oct.–Mar., Mon. Apr.–Aug., and weekdays in Sept.