Whether you’re a gnarly dude in search of a sick honker or a pale-skinned barney with dings on your twin fin, you know that people have been surfing for over 1,000 years. Though pros make it look easy, one wrong move and you might slurp a Neptune cocktail (saltwater) while getting a sand facial. Here’s how to hang loose, dude!
Getting Wet
If you want to catch some waves, the first thing you’ll need is a surfboard. For beginners, long boards are the way to go. They’re more stable and easier to ride than shorter boards. You will also need a leash to keep you from losing your board, and a wetsuit. Apply wax to the face of the surfboard for traction, or you’ll just slip right off.
Know the Code
Surfers have a code when it comes to catching waves. In general, the surfer closest to the peak of the wave has the right to ride it. If there is a wave that you can ride in either direction, call out “Left” or “Right” to let other surfers know which direction you intend to take. Trying to ride a wave that someone else is already surfing is called “dropping in.” Dropping in is dangerous and not cool! Be patient and wait for a wave to call your own.
Rocky Ending
Surfers call falling off their board a wipeout. The worst wipeouts are ones involving something other than water. Waves often break over sandbars and coral reefs. Always wear a wet suit when you go surfing to minimize the damage. Coral reefs are sharp and can cut you. Know the turf before you surf. Check out the area at low tide and note the locations of potentially dangerous sandbars and reefs.
HOW TO HANDLE A WIPEOUT
- Make some distance. When falling, put some distance between you and your board, so it doesn’t injure you.
- Take a breath. You don’t know how long you might be underwater, so try to take a deep breath before you go down.
- Stay calm. Don’t try to resist the power of the wave. Let it spin you around until it releases you.
- Follow the leash. To find your way back to the surface, follow the leash attached to your surfboard.
The “tube” is what surfers call the hollow part of the wave that they surf through.