BAKING

lemon and almond SHORTBREAD SQUARES

Melt-in-the-mouth, buttery shortbread is a perennially popular tea-time favourite. Traditionally made with only four ingredients, but in the following recipes I have introduced some unusual new flavours.
  1. Place the butter and lemon rind in a large mixing bowl. (Use a big, thick-skinned, well-washed lemon, and be careful not to include any of the pith when grating.) Using an electric whisk, cream these well, then slowly beat in the castor sugar until the mixture is fluffy and pale yellow. Sift the flour with the cornflour and add gradually, beating well, until the mixture is moist and finely crumbed, then use your hands to knead until the mixture comes together in a smooth, putty-like ball. Finally, knead in the almonds. Line a 26 × 20 cm** baking sheet with baking paper, and press the mixture in firmly and as evenly as possible. Use a fork to prick the mixture all over, and mark lightly into squares. Bake on the middle shelf of the oven at 160 °C for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to 150 °C and bake for a further 50 minutes. When done, the shortbread should be a rich blonde colour, never browned. Remove from the oven and carefully cut through the squares. Sprinkle with castor sugar, then leave on the sheet until absolutely cold before removing. Makes about 20 squares, depending on size.

* Rice flour is traditional, but not readily available in South Africa – cornflour makes a good substitute.

** The size of the baking sheet is important – no larger, or the shortbread will be too thin.

rosemary SHORTBREAD FINGERS

This is a rich shortbread, crisp and addictive, with a fragrant surprise in the flavour. The recipe makes a large batch.
  1. Sift the two flours together. Using an electric whisk, cream the butter very well. Slowly beat in the sugar, and whisk until the mixture becomes pale and fluffy, then gradually add the flour. Whisk until it all becomes very moist and crumbly. Mix in the rosemary and then, using your hands, knead for a few minutes before shaping into a soft, smooth ball. Line a 25 × 20 cm tin with baking paper (even if it is a non-stick pan). Secure the baking paper at the corners with a dab of oil. Place the ball of dough in the tin and, pressing down firmly, spread it out into the corners. Continue to press down hard until the mixture is smoothly and evenly spread. Prick well all over and mark lightly into 28 fingers. Bake at 150 °C for 50–55 minutes until very pale beige and firm.
  2. Remove from the oven and cut through the markings, but leave in the tin until cold. Sprinkle with a drizzle of castor sugar, lift out carefully, and store in an airtight container. Makes 28.

* Cornflour can be used instead.

FARMHOUSE FINGER RUSKS with buttermilk and oats

This version is good and wholesome – the soft, sticky dough is simply turned into a loaf tin (for a loaf of rusks) or a rectangular tin (for a flattish slab). Once baked, cool, turn out, and cut into fingers. You can make them with white flour, bran-rich flour, or half white and half bran-rich, or in any proportion you like, as long as the total is 500 g.

  1. Sift the flour, salt and baking powder into a bowl. If using bran-rich flour, add the bran left in the sieve. Mix in the sugar, oats and currants, then mix in the melted butter. In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs, buttermilk and oil and add to the flour mixture. Combine well; the dough should be squishy and soft. If using a lot of bran-rich flour, you will need a little extra buttermilk. Turn the dough into either a 26 × 9 × 7 cm loaf tin, oiled and then lined (base and sides) with baking paper, or a 20 × 26 cm baking tin, lined in the same way. In both cases, spread evenly, levelling the top with a dampened hand and a wet wooden spoon. Bake the rectangular batch at 180 °C for 45 minutes. The loaf tin, being deeper, will take 1 hour. Cool before turning out. For perfect finger shapes, cut off the crusty sides before cutting across into thick slices and then into fingers. Arrange on baking sheets lined with several layers of baking paper (as the rusks tend to brown quickly) and dry out in a very low oven, about 100 °C, for several hours, turning once. When dry, leave to cool in the oven before storing. Makes dozens, depending on how thick and short or long and thinly you slice the fingers.

ouma’s aniseed BUTTERMILK RUSKS

The favourite, old-fashioned, morning coffee dunk, neither too sweet nor buttery for so early in the day.

  1. Sift the flour, salt and baking powder into a large bowl, then mix in the sugar and aniseed. Rub in the butter until finely crumbled. Or melt the butter, which is quicker and works just as well, and mix into the flour mixture before adding the remaining ingredients. Whisk the egg into the buttermilk, pour into the flour mixture, mix well and then start to knead. The more you knead, the better the rusks will rise. If the dough becomes sticky (which is unlikely), flour your hands as necessary; if too dry, add a drop more buttermilk, but be careful of making too soft a dough. Continue kneading until it forms a smooth, elastic ball and leaves the sides of the bowl clean.
  2. Break off eight equal pieces and work each one into a smooth, round ball. Place the balls up against each other in a medium-sized loaf tin (20 × 10 × 7 cm is just right) first brushed with oil and then lined, base and sides, with baking paper. Bake at 200 °C for 20 minutes, then at 180 °C for 30 minutes; test by poking a skewer into the centre. Leave to stand for 10 minutes before turning out onto a rack; remove paper, and leave until cool enough to handle. Break the balls apart, and then, with the help of a knife, nick and break open again – try not to cut right through, just here and there, and then break into rusk shapes. Place in a single layer on a baking sheet lined with several sheets of baking paper, and dry out in a very low oven, about 100 °C, turning once. Makes about 32, depending on size.

honeyed GINGER COOKIES

Very moreish caramel-coloured chews, made with really basic ingredients. These are not hard, dunking-type biscuits, but fairly soft with an addictive flavour.

  1. Sift the cake flour, ginger, salt and cinnamon. Add the sugar and wholewheat flour. Mix in the butter, whisking until the mixture resembles fine crumbs. Mix the bicarb and honey into the water and, when melted, whisk into the flour mixture. Mix well – the mixture will be very soft. Shape into a ball, pinch off pieces, roll into balls and place on baking sheets that have been first oiled and then lined with two sheets* of baking paper, leaving room for spreading. Press down with a fork, and bake at 180 °C for 18–20 minutes until a rich caramel colour. Using a spatula, carefully remove to a rack to cool. Makes 20.

* With ovens that heat from below, biscuits easily get overbrowned bottoms. Lining baking trays with a double layer of baking paper usually prevents this.

ALMOND BISCOTTI with cherries and amaretto

Not quite a rusk, not quite a biscuit, but crisp little things to dunk into coffee or sweet wine after a meal. I toast the almonds for added flavour, and use Amaretto instead of artificial almond essence.

  1. Whisk the eggs, castor sugar, vanilla essence and liqueur very well, until light and creamy. Sift in the flour, salt, baking powder and nutmeg. Using an electric whisk, mix to a soft dough, then gather up and work into a smooth ball with your hands. Place on a lightly floured board. Roll the dough (flouring your hands occasionally, as it can be sticky) into a log, incorporating the nuts and cherries as you go. (If you don’t like cherries, leave them out – I add them for their cheerful colour.) The almonds I use are usually the flaked ones, as it is easier to spread them throughout the dough so that in the end each slice contains a few pieces. When all the nuts and cherries are incorporated, divide into two logs, each about 24 cm long and 5 cm wide. Lightly oil a large baking sheet and cover the base with baking paper. Place the logs side by side, but apart, as they will puff up in the oven, and flatten gently with your palm. Bake at 160 °C for 30 minutes, until deep cream in colour.
  2. Remove from the oven and leave to stand for 5 minutes. Reduce temperature to 140 °C, slice off the pointy ends of the logs, then slice the rest into diagonal 1 cm thick slices. Place flat on the sheet and bake for 20 minutes. Turn and bake for a further 20–30 minutes until dry and just beginning to look toasted. Cool on the baking sheet before storing in an airtight container. Makes 40.

jumbo OAT CRISPS

Big as small saucers, flat, crunchy and wholesome, these are best made in relays because they spread with such abandon.

  1. Whisk together the butter, oil, sugar, oats, both flours, coconut and salt, combining well to make a soft dough. Dissolve the bicarbonate of soda in the hot water and add, mixing well, then mix in the currants, sunflower seeds and vanilla essence. Shape the mixture into a ball with your hands, then pinch off pieces and shape into flat patties by tossing between your palms. The dough is very sticky, and this is the best way to handle it. Place the patties on oiled, double-lined baking sheets, leaving plenty of room for spreading. Press down lightly with a fork, and bake at 180 °C for 15 minutes until they have grown into large, flat, golden-brown discs. As they will be very soft, leave on the trays to crisp for a few minutes, then use a spatula to remove to cooling racks. Make a minimum of 21 – or more, if you prefer to make smaller crisps.

butter PECAN SNAPS

A rich, crunchy picture-book cookie, which will be appreciated by cooks who have no time to roll out, chill, cut or even decorate. Using a hand-held electric whisk further simplifies preparation.

  1. Cream the butter and castor sugar until light and pale. Beat in the egg and vanilla essence. Sift in, all together, the flour, bicarb, spices and salt, and whisk to make a soft dough. Add the pecans and, using your hands, work the mixture into a ball. Pinch off pieces and roll into fairly large marbles – the dough is very soft and it will be necessary to flour your hands now and then. Place well apart on baking sheets, first oiled and then lined with two layers of baking paper. Flatten lightly with a fork, and bake at 160 °C for 18–20 minutes until the cookies have spread into discs and are just beginning to brown round the edges. Use a spatula to transfer to a rack to cool. Makes 48.

fruity CUPCAKES

These look like brown muffins, but they’re not. Based on a carrot cake mixture, they’re dense with fruit and spices and, topped with butter icing*, they make perfect, single-serving little cakes.

  1. Whisk the eggs and sugar. Add the oil and whisk well until the mixture is creamy and pale butterscotch in colour. Sift the dry ingredients – you can sift them straight into the creamed mixture (if using brown flour, add any bran left in the sieve). Combine well, then stir in the fruit mix, dates, carrot, nuts and essence. Have a muffin tin ready and waiting – you’ll need a large one, to take 10 paper cups (the big cups with a base diameter of 4 cm) – one cup in each hollow. Fill each cup to two-thirds full. Bake at 160 ºC for 30–35 minutes until richly browned and well risen; test with a skewer, it should come out clean when they’re done. (Note that these cakes do not peak, but have smooth, rounded tops.) Leave to cool in the pan before lifting out in their paper cases. Top each with a small blob of icing, smooth over with a damp spatula (don’t be too concerned about wavy edges, they must look homespun) and lightly press in the halved nuts. Makes 10.

* If preferred, you could forget the icing, and top each with a nut before baking. Also good, and less sweet.

plain GOLDEN SCONES

Serve freshly baked, with butter, jam and cream. Follow the baking instructions carefully, never twist when cutting them out, and don’t omit the lemon juice, which helps to lighten the scones.

  1. Sift the dry ingredients into a mixing bowl. Whisk together the egg, oil, milk, water and lemon juice. Add to the sifted mixture and mix lightly, using a firm spatula and then, using your hands, quickly shape into a soft ball – flouring your hands if necessary. Pat out into a 2 cm thick circle or rectangle on a lightly floured board; don’t be heavy-handed, but the dough needs to be given a quick knead and smoothing out to remove any surface cracks. Cut out, using either a 6 cm round cutter, flouring it after every second scone, or cut into squares with a floured knife. Gather up any offcuts and pat out smoothly again to give you eight scones in total.
  2. Place fairly close together, but not quite touching, on a baking sheet lined with baking paper. Brush the tops with egg or milk, and bake near the top of the oven at 220 °C for 15 minutes until well risen and golden. Remove to a rack to cool down before serving. Scones should be carefully broken in half, not cut, before spreading. Makes 8.

rosemary-buttermilk SCONES

Plump, savoury scones topped with melted cheese – these are delicious served freshly baked with morning coffee, with brunch, or with soup. Switch on the oven, snip the herbs, and then they’re made in less time than they take to bake.
  1. Sift the flour, salt and castor sugar and mix in the herbs. Break the egg into a measuring jug, add the oil and enough buttermilk to reach the 200 ml (4⁄5 cup) mark – about 125 ml (1⁄2 cup) buttermilk should just do it. Whisk these together, then add to the dry ingredients. Using a fork, mix quickly until the dough holds together, then use your hands to form into a ball. Pat out, 2 cm thick, on a lightly floured board and use a 5 cm scone cutter to cut into rounds – don’t twist when cutting. Place, almost touching, on a baking tray lined with baking paper, brush the tops lightly with milk and sprinkle with cheese. Bake at 220 °C just above the centre of the oven for about 14 minutes until the scones have ballooned beautifully, are golden in colour and the cheese has melted. Makes 10.

* For a more wholesome scone, substitute bran-rich self-raising flour in any ratio preferred, remembering that the bran will require slightly more liquid.

BUTTERMILK MUFFINS with cheese and sun-dried tomatoes

Bake, break and serve warm with butter and an eggy dish, or with soup, or for elevenses with coffee instead of something sweet.

  1. Sift the flour, mustard powder, salt and castor sugar into a mixing bowl, adding any bran left in the sieve. Mix in the onions, dried herbs, tomatoes, cheese and parsley. Whisk together the egg, buttermilk and oil. Make a well in the dry ingredients and pour in the liquid. Stir quickly and lightly until the ingredients are just combined – do not try to smooth the batter, it should be lumpy. Spoon into 10 large, lightly oiled hollows in a muffin pan (not paper cups), dividing equally. Top generously with extra grated cheese, dust with paprika and bake immediately at 200 °C for 25 minutes, until risen and golden brown. Place on a rack to cool briefly before gently removing the muffins. Makes 10.

brown buttermilk MUFFINS

… with raisins and spice and a touch of orange, all of which combine to make these a great choice to serve at a brunch, with butter and lime marmalade.

  1. Sift together the flour, salt, bicarb and spice. Mix in the sugar, wholewheat flour and raisins. Whisk together the egg, oil, honey or syrup, buttermilk and orange rind and add this mixture to the dry ingredients; mix quickly to a lumpy batter. Spoon into large, lightly oiled muffin cups (not paper cups), filling them to the three-quarter level, and bake on the middle shelf of the oven at 180 °C for 25 minutes – do the skewer test and, if done, leave to stand for a few minutes before removing to a rack to cool. Makes 10 fat muffins.

fruitcake MUFFINS

Dark and knobbly, sweet and spicy muffins. No need to butter these, they are moist enough to enjoy just as they are, and they’re a useful bake when the hens are off the lay – no eggs.
  1. Place the fruit mix and butter in a bowl, pour the boiling water over, stir to melt the butter and leave to cool for about 15 minutes. Sift the flour, baking powder, bicarb, salt and spices, mix in the wholewheat flour, sugar and pecans, then pour the fruit mixture into a well in the centre of the dry ingredients. Add the vanilla and mix very quickly to a lumpy batter – mix only until no trace of flour remains – then spoon into large, lightly oiled muffin cups (not paper cups), filling each to the three-quarter level. Bake on the middle shelf of the oven at 180 °C for 20 minutes until brown and firm – test with a skewer to check whether they are cooked through. Leave to stand a few minutes before removing to a rack to cool. Makes 9 large muffins.

* White bread flour can replace the cake flour and, for a more wholesome muffin, 250 ml (1 cup) wholewheat and 250 ml (1 cup) cake or white bread flour may be used instead of the given ratios.

lemon, nut and semolina SLAB CAKE

The thick batter is spread thinly in a large tin, drenched in syrup once baked, showered with lemon peel, left to fatten up a bit, and then cut into squares to serve.

  1. Cream the butter, sugar and lemon rind. Whisk in the yolks, singly, then mix in the semolina. Sift in the remaining dry ingredients and stir – the mixture will be thick. Mix in the milk and vanilla essence and fold in the stiffly beaten egg whites and the nuts. The mixture may appear slightly curdled, but should smooth out. Spread levelly into a 26 × 20 cm tin lined with baking paper (base and sides), and bake on the middle shelf at 180 °C for 25 minutes until pale brown, slightly risen and firm.
  2. Prepare the syrup while the cake is baking. Place the lemon shreds in a heavy saucepan and add the sugar, water and lemon juice. Bring to the boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then leave to bubble for 5 minutes until syrupy and reduced. Remove and add the Limetto. Remove the cake from the oven, prick, and drizzle with the warm syrup, making sure the lemon peel doesn’t clump. Cool in the tin, then cut into 18–20 pieces. Eat it within 3 days, it will not keep for longer. Makes 18–20 squares.

nutty as a fruitcake FRUITCAKE

Heavy with fruit, nuts and cherries, it weighs 1–1.5 kg and, as it is not a very thick cake, it can take a layer of marzipan and icing to become a last-minute Christmas cake. If you would rather have it plain, the mixture is stiff enough to support halved cherries, decoratively arranged on the top before baking. If you want a deeper, ‘fatter’ cake, use a 20 cm round tin, but bake for slightly longer.

  1. Bring the cake mixture, raisins, both sugars, bicarb, butter and water to the boil in a large, deep saucepan – it must be deep as the bicarb froths up. Stir and reduce the heat to low, then half-cover and simmer for 15 minutes until the liquid is absorbed. Cool completely before proceeding. Whisk together the eggs, vanilla, rum and brandy. Add to the fruit mixture (in a large bowl), then sift in the flour, baking powder, salt and spices. Mix well, then add the cherries, walnuts and ginger. Turn this thick, sticky mixture into a 21 × 6 cm deep, round cake tin, base and sides lined with baking paper. Smooth the top and arrange halved cherries on top, if using. Bake at 160 °C for 1 hour 10 minutes; test with a skewer in the centre of the cake – it should come out clean. Cool in the tin before turning out. Store in an airtight container for a day or two before enjoying. Makes 1 large cake.

chocolate-glazed DEVIL’S FOOD CAKE

Serve as is for a special tea, or for a rich treat of a dessert serve slices with a dollop of crème fraîche alongside and a small tumble of berries.

  1. Sift the flour, cocoa, bicarb, baking powder, cinnamon and castor sugar into a mixing bowl. Melt the butter over low heat with the coffee and, when dissolved, add to the dry ingredients together with 125 ml (1⁄2 cup) of the buttermilk. Using an electric whisk, beat on low speed for 1–2 minutes until combined – the mixture will be thick. Beat the remaining buttermilk with the eggs and vanilla and add to the flour mixture. Now whisk at high speed for 11⁄2 minutes until the mixture is very smooth and somewhat lighter in colour. Turn into a deep, 20 cm layer cake tin, bottom and sides lined with baking paper. Use a spatula to level the top gently, and then bake on the middle shelf of the oven at 180 °C for 55–60 minutes. It will rise dramatically while in the oven, but settles down once baked. If a skewer inserted into the middle of the cake comes out dry, it’s done. Remove from the oven and leave to cool in the tin. Turn out when cold, and place base (flat) side up on a serving plate.
  2. To make the ganache, smear a small saucepan with butter and add the chocolate and the cream. Melt over low heat, then stir in the icing sugar. Remove from the stove as soon as the mixture is smooth, and slowly drizzle it over the top of the cake. Use a spatula to smooth it out to the edges – it should cover the top completely – then leave to set. This will take several hours, and the cake should only be cut after a day.

chocolate-orange LAYER CAKE

A large, dark cake. The ingredients are basic, it’s easy to make and the flavour is super.
  1. Mix the cocoa, coffee, water and orange rind, then leave to cool. Whisk the egg yolks with the castor sugar and vanilla until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture resembles creamy butter. Add the cocoa mixture and oil, and whisk until combined. Sift in the flour, baking powder and salt, and whisk briefly, just until smooth. Fold in the stiffly whisked egg whites, using a metal spoon, then pour into two 20 cm round cake tins, first brushed with oil, then base and sides lined with baking paper. Bake on the middle shelf of the oven at 180 °C for about 25 minutes – do the skewer test. Leave to stand for a few minutes before inverting onto a rack. Remove the baking paper and cool, then ice (see below) and decorate with chocolate scrolls or as preferred.

VANILLA BUTTER ICING

Whisk the following together until smooth: 750 ml (3 cups) icing sugar, sifted; 30 ml (2 Tbsp) cocoa powder; 60 ml (4 Tbsp) softened butter; 5 ml (1 tsp) instant coffee granules dissolved in 30 ml (2 Tbsp) cold water; 5 ml (1 tsp) vanilla essence; a little milk to moisten.

* When using orange rind to flavour cakes, biscuits or desserts, use firm but ripe oranges and a very fine grater – the result will be almost a pulp, and a little will provide plenty of flavour. Wash the oranges in hot water first to get rid of the waxy coating.

coffee and spice LAYER CAKE

Despite the popular invasion of croissants and preserves, baguettes, goat’s cheese and blueberry muffins with mascarpone, there’s still a place, now and then, for one of those imposing iced layer cakes that used to be seen on every tea table some time in the past. Here’s a reminder.

  1. Dissolve the coffee granules in the hot water, then leave to cool completely. Add the oil, beaten eggs and vanilla and whisk to combine. Sift the flour, baking powder, spices, cornflour, castor sugar and salt into a large mixing bowl, add the coffee mixture, and whisk quickly just until smoothly combined – do not overbeat. Using a metal spoon, fold in the egg whites in two batches. (Whisk these right at the start, and then you won’t have to wash the beaters.) Turn into two 20 cm round cake tins, first brushed with oil, then base and sides lined with baking paper, and bake on the middle shelf of the oven at 180 °C for 30 minutes. Leave to stand for a few minutes before turning onto a rack to cool, and remove the baking paper. Ice as suggested below.

COFFEE BUTTER ICING

To sandwich the layers and cover the top thickly, you’ll need to mix together: 90 g soft butter; 750 ml (3 cups) sifted icing sugar; 5 ml (1 tsp) instant coffee granules dissolved in 15 ml (1 Tbsp) water; 2 ml (1⁄2 tsp) vanilla essence and about 15 ml (1 Tbsp) milk. Pecan nuts are optional, but they look very good on a coffee cake.

brown DOUBLE-GINGER LOAF

If you love ginger, this is for you: it’s not gingerbread as such, but a large, perfumed loaf which is delicious served sliced with soft goat’s cheese (like cylinders of chevin) or cream cheese, and a preserve such as kumquat or grapefruit on the side. An unusual treat at a brunch or tea.
  1. Using an electric whisk, cream the butter and castor sugar until light and fluffy. Whisk in the egg, then mix in the grated ginger, honey and syrup. Beat until thick and creamy. Sift the flour, ground ginger, bicarb, baking powder and mixed spice. Whisk this into the creamed mixture, alternately with the milk, beginning and ending with the flour mixture, and mix to a fairly stiff batter. Finally add the vanilla.
  2. Turn into a 26 × 9 × 7 cm loaf tin, oiled and then lined, base and sides, with baking paper. (Oiling the tin first allows the paper to adhere.) For a dumpier loaf, use a 20 × 9 × 7 cm tin. Bake at 160 °C for 11⁄4 hours until caramel brown, risen and firm – test with a skewer. Leave to stand for a few minutes before turning out onto a rack, remove baking paper and cool. Dust with icing sugar before slicing. Makes 1 large loaf.

* If preferred, use half cake flour and half brown flour – brown flour adds an extra fillip of fibre, but it does make a slightly heavier and less moist loaf.

fruit and carrot LOAF

A sweet, dense brown loaf. Serve sliced and buttered.

  1. Place the cake mixture, water, sugar, carrots, butter and spice in a large, deep saucepan, bring to the boil, then cover and simmer over low heat for 15 minutes. Cool completely before continuing with the recipe. Sift the cake flour, bicarb, baking powder and salt and stir into the cooled mixture in a large mixing bowl. Mix in the wholewheat flour, nuts (if using) and vanilla. Turn into a 20 × 9 × 7 cm loaf tin, first oiled and then lined, base and sides, with baking paper. Level the top and bake at 160 °C for 1 hour. Test with a skewer and, if done, leave to stand for a few minutes before inverting onto a rack. Remove paper and cool. Makes 1 medium loaf.

EASY WHOLEWHEAT BREAD with seeds and raisins

An any time nibbly bread that delights and fills up children and adults alike. It’s quick to make, and goes with everything any time of the day. The raisins may be left out if serving with a savoury dish.
  1. In a large bowl, mix both the flours, the yeast, salt, seeds and raisins. Stir together the oil and molasses and/or honey, and mix in well. Mix in 250 ml (1 cup) of the warm water. Slowly add the remaining water, or enough to make a soft and sticky batter – not sloppy, nor stiff. Oil the base and sides of a 26 × 9 × 7 cm loaf tin, then line, base and sides, with baking paper. Spoon in the bread mixture, using a damp wooden spoon to press in firmly and smooth the top. Sprinkle with the seeds in diagonal stripes, for a professional look, and leave in a warm place to rise until just over the top of the tin. In winter this could take as long as 1 hour. Bake at 200 °C for 30 minutes, then at 180 °C for 20 minutes. Leave to stand a few minutes, then turn out, remove paper and knock on the bottom – if it sounds hollow, it’s done. Now cool on a rack or, if you want to crisp the sides, return to the switched-off oven, out of the tin and upside down, for about 10 minutes. Makes 1 large loaf.

* Molasses adds colour, flavour, iron and minerals.

** The only pitfall in making this bread lies in using water that is either too cold or too hot – in either case the yeast won’t rise. The water should be hotter than lukewarm but definitely not hot enough to make coffee. Practice will soon make perfect.

stirred WHOLEWHEAT AND YOGHURT BREAD

This wholesome bread, which was once so popular, seems to be somewhat neglected now in favour of crusty, savoury Italian breads – understandable, but a pity. However, here it is again as a reminder – easy as pie, and full of good things. Despite the raisins and nuts, it’s great for sandwiches as it slices thinly without crumbling – and it also makes a lovely lunch, with avo and cottage cheese and greens. The quantity of bicarb might seem very small, but it is enough for the bread to rise, and using this minimum amount avoids that overtly bicarb flavour that often surfaces in breads made with this ingredient as a raising agent.

  1. Sift the white bread flour with the salt and bicarb. Mix in the wholewheat flour, wheatgerm, raisins and nuts, if using. Whisk together the yoghurt, oil and honey, stir into the flour mixture, then add just enough water to make a sticky but not sloppy dough – rinse out the yoghurt carton with 100 ml (2⁄5 cup) water and use as much of this as necessary – you might need it all. Stir hard until thoroughly combined, then turn into a well-oiled and baking paper-lined 26 × 9 × 7 cm loaf tin, patting in evenly. Lightly press the seeds into the top and, to prevent uneven rising, make a slight depression down the centre (it will, nevertheless, hump in the oven, but it will settle down later). Bake at 180 °C for 60–70 minutes, then leave to stand for 5 minutes before loosening the sides and turning out onto a rack to cool. Makes 1 fairly large loaf.

WHOLEWHEAT MINI-BREADS with fig preserve and goat’s cheese

These sweetish little breads, looking for all the world like rocky brown muffins, are made in a trice and are just the thing for a filler at brunch, or for a trendy little breakfast with coffee. The minis, speckled with raisins and hinted with cinnamon, simply beg for a glistening, syrupy preserved fig alongside, with a disc or two of soft goat’s cheese and a bowl of soft butter. These mini-breads could take the place of croissants when you’re wanting a wholesome alternative. They’re far more appealing than sliced bread, and quicker than yeast rolls.

  1. Sift the white bread flour, bicarb, baking powder, salt and cinnamon into a large mixing bowl. Add the wholewheat flour, raisins and sugar. Whisk together the honey, oil and buttermilk; add to the flour mixture and stir until thoroughly combined. The mixture needs to be quite soft and sticky, and you might need to add a spoon or two of water (rinse out the buttermilk carton) so that it can easily be scooped into the muffin cups. Rather add too little than too much, though – the dough must not be wet and slippery. You will need large muffin cups (not paper cases) for these mini-breads – oil them lightly first and then divide the dough equally – don’t try to make them flat, just leave them more or less as they drop. Brush the tops lightly with milk, sprinkle with sunflower seeds and bake at 180 °C for 25 minutes until well risen, firm, and rocky in appearance. Leave to stand for about 10 minutes before carefully removing to a rack to cool. Best served on the same day, with the figs and the cheese. Makes 12.

WHOLEWHEAT ROSEMARY AND GARLIC ring bread

Mixed in minutes, this herby batter is turned into a tube tin where it billows into a big, fat ring, and the aroma while baking will waft right through the house. This wholesome, moreish loaf slices well, and may also be baked in a regular loaf tin if preferred.
  1. Mix all the ingredients, except the water, in a large bowl. Slowly stir in just enough of the water to make a moist but not sloppy batter. The water should be warmer than lukewarm, but far from boiling hot. Turn into a 22 × 9 cm tube tin, oiled and lined with baking paper – base, sides and funnel – even if it’s a non-stick tin. Use a dampened spatula to spread evenly. The batter should reach halfway up the sides. Cover lightly with a cloth and leave to rise in a warm place until doubled in size – about 30–40 minutes, depending on the weather. Bake at 200 °C for 30 minutes, then reduce heat to 180 °C and bake for a further 20–25 minutes, until risen and browned. Leave to stand for a few minutes before turning out onto a rack to cool, using a spatula to ease it out if necessary. If baking as a loaf, use a 26 × 9 × 7 cm tin, oiled and lined, and do not cover when rising as the batter will stick to the cloth. It should rise to just over the top of the tin – add about 10 minutes extra to the baking time. Leave to stand for a few minutes before running a spatula round the sides to invert. Cool. Makes 1 ring bread.

* For a somewhat lighter loaf, use 750 ml (3 cups) wholewheat flour and 500 ml (2 cups) white bread flour – in this case slightly less water is required.

quick-mix HERBED BUTTERMILK BREAD

This is a jumbo loaf, humped and crusty and plump with flavour. Easy to make, as everything is simply stirred together – no rising time required – and it’s super with soup or at a braai. Best served slightly warm and thickly sliced.

  1. Mix all the ingredients, except the buttermilk, egg, water and pecorino. Whisk the buttermilk with the egg, add to the dry ingredients and stir to mix, then rinse the empty buttermilk carton with the water and add just enough to make a thick, sticky batter. The mixture needs some hard beating with a wooden spoon in order to combine, as it is heavy and dense – but it should not be sloppy, so do not add more water than is absolutely necessary. Turn into a 26 × 9 × 7 cm loaf tin, first oiled and then lined, base and sides, with baking paper. Use a dampened spatula to pat in evenly and sprinkle with pecorino, pressing it in lightly. Bake at 180 °C for 1 hour – it should have risen quite dramatically and be golden brown in colour. Insert a skewer into the centre to see if the loaf is done. Leave to stand for a few minutes, turn out, remove the baking paper and return to the oven for about 5 minutes to crisp the sides, then remove to a rack. Makes 1 very large loaf.