9 inches wide x 28 inches in circumference
Materials
Version 1
• Plymouth Yarn Monte Donegal Hand Dyed medium (worsted) weight alpaca/merino wool/acrylic/rayon yarn (1¾ oz/109 yds/50g per ball):
1 ball each #0010 aqua (A) and #0013 scarlet (B)
Version 2
• Plymouth Yarn Monte Donegal Hand Dyed medium (worsted) weight alpaca/merino wool/acrylic/rayon yarn (1¾ oz/109 yds/50g per ball):
1 ball #0010 aqua (A)
• Plymouth Yarn Gina medium (worsted) weight wool yarn (1¾ oz/109 yds/50g per ball):
1 ball #0003 blue/green/pink/yellow variegated (B)
Version 3
• Plymouth Yarn Monte Donegal Hand Dyed medium (worsted) weight alpaca/merino wool/acrylic/rayon yarn (1¾ oz/109 yds/50g per ball):
2 balls #0010 aqua
All Versions
• Size I/9/5.5mm double-ended crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch marker
In pattern: 12 sts = 4 inches; 8 rnds = 4 inches
To demonstrate the flexibility of double-ended Tunisian, this Cowl can be stitched in 3 different color versions. For Version 1, two solid colors are used. For Version 2, there is a solid color matched with a self-striping yarn. For Version 3, the Cowl is worked in two balls of the same color. Always practice using two separate colors first before you progress to working with two balls of the same color. Note that the crossed stitches will be staggered due to the odd number of total stitches (see Stitch Glossary on page 34).
Double-Ended Tunisian Worked in the Round (see page 5)
Note: Since Cowl is worked in the round, you will need to complete 2 or more “passes,” of picking up lps in order to make it all the way around. The instructions state total number of sts for each rnd, but work is completed in sections in order to make it around (see page 5). Pulling up lps is always done with ball A, and closing lps is always done with ball B.
Rnd 1:
A: With ball A, ch 79, sk first ch, *insert hook in next ch, yo, pull lp through, leave lp on hook, rep from * across (79 lps on hook);
B: turn hook 180 degrees so back of work is facing, push lps to opposite end of hook, pull ball B through 1 lp on hook, with ball B, [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] across until 1 lp rem on hook.
Note: When closing sts in 2 or more “passes,” always remember to leave last 3 or 4 sts on hook to maintain stability of lps.
Rnd 2:
A: Without twisting foundation ch, bring first st close to last st, sk first st, TSS (see Stitch Glossary on page 31) in next st, TSS in sk st, *sk st already worked, TSS in next st, TSS in sk st, rep from * around to last st, sk last st, TSS in next st (first st of next rnd), TSS in sk st (last st of previous rnd);
Note: Place st marker in first st of rnd; move marker up as work progresses.
B: turn hook 180 degrees, push lps to opposite end of hook, [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] around.
Rnd 3:
A: Sk first st, TSS in next st, TSS in sk st, *sk st already worked, TSS in next st, TSS in sk st, rep from * around to last st, sk last st, TSS in next st (first st of next rnd), TSS in sk st (last st of previous rnd);
B: turn hook 180 degrees, push lps to opposite end of hook, [yo, pull through 2 lps on hook] around.
Rnds 4–18: Rep rnd 3.
Rnd 19: With ball A, sk first st, sl st as for TSS in next st, sl st as for TSS in sk st, *sk st already worked, sl st as for TSS in next st, sl st as for TSS in sk st, rep from * around to last st, sl st as for TSS in last st. Fasten off both balls.
Weave in all ends. 