Located just a scenic 15-minute ferry ride away from downtown, Toronto Island Park is an idyllic getaway hidden just off the shoreline of Lake Ontario. (Ch. 3)

Once the site of the world’s largest whiskey distillery, this cobblestone-paved neighborhood still oozes Victorian industrial character. (Ch. 4)

Ride the glass-bottom elevator up 1,220 feet to the observation deck, or try the EdgeWalk, where you stroll around on the top of the tower. (Ch. 3)

A number of hotly anticipated movies make their debut at the Toronto International Film Festival, with stars and directors flying in to walk the red carpet and appear for panels and Q&As. (Ch. 3)

The city is home to a wealth of global cuisines—everything from Sri Lankan to Salvadorean to Ethiopian. Chinese, Korean, and Japanese food all have a strong foothold here. (Ch. 5–11)

Famously named one of the world’s coolest neighborhoods in 2014 by Vogue, Queen Street West is at the heart of Toronto’s cultural and independent retail scene. (Ch. 6)

The Royal Ontario Museum—the biggest museum in Canada—is a must-visit for history buffs and culture vultures alike. (Ch. 10)

Kensington, a bohemian, multicultural neighborhood, has fought to maintain its unique local character, including a patchwork of independent stores, grocers, and cafés. (Ch. 6)

Once home to Toronto’s first city hall and then a prison, this sprawling indoor market has become one of the city’s must-hit destinations for food lovers. (Ch. 4)

As the country’s cultural capital, Toronto is home to a number of top-shelf art museums, including The Power Plant and the Art Gallery of Toronto. (Ch. 3, 6)

WHAT’S WHERE

Top Multicultural Foodie Experiences in Toronto

SPICE THINGS UP WITH INDIAN CUISINE

If you find yourself craving a good tikka masala while in Toronto, your first stop should be Banjara, which offers a broad, universally delicious menu. In Little India, the raucous, always-busy Lahore Tikka House specializes in grilled kebabs and tandoori chicken.

BROWSE THE WORLD’S CULTURES IN KENSINGTON MARKET

The bohemian Kensington Market is one of Toronto’s most unique and vibrant neighborhoods, with a diversity that’s reflected in its mix of shops and restaurants. You’ll find established Latin and rising Japanese influences in the shops here.

SAMPLE THE LATEST IN JAPANESE SNACKS

Toronto has enjoyed a Japanese food boom in recent years, spurred in large part by the arrival (and viral success) of Uncle Tetsu’s Japanese Cheesecake in 2015. You’ll also find fluffy Japanese pancakes and matcha snacks in addition to Michelin-starred ramen.

EXPERIENCE INDIGENOUS CUISINE

In recent years, Toronto has become home to several restaurants serving traditional dishes from the area’s First Nations peoples, which serve an important dual function as local hubs for Indigenous culture. The longest-running is Tea N Bannock, a Little India café with a menu that puts staples like bison, frybread, and arctic char front and center.

GRAB SOME REGIONAL CHINESE CUISINE

Toronto is home to a sizeable Chinese population, so it’s no surprise that a number of China’s local cuisines are represented. Start at Yueh Tung for a variety of Hakka dishes. In Chinatown, Rol San is an always-busy, no-frills spot for Cantonese. Mother’s Dumplings has Northeastern eats like pork and chive dumplings and scallion pancakes.

GO ON A MOMO CRAWL IN PARKDALE

The west-end stretch of Queen Street is home to a large Tibetan population, which is reflected in the proliferation of eateries serving momos, Tibetan dumplings stuffed with a variety of meats and veggies and served steamed or fried. If you want to sample the whole local smorgasbord, Students For A Free Tibet hosts a Momo Crawl food event every summer.

DIVE INTO NORTHERN THAI AT PAI

The family behind Pai runs several of Toronto’s most beloved Thai joints, including tried-and-true Sukhothai, snack bar Sabai Sabai and genteel, marble-swathed Kiin. You can’t go wrong with a meal at any of them – but Pai just might be the most memorable.

STOP BY MARKET 707 FOR AN INTERNATIONAL SMORGASBORD

It might not look like much, but Market 707, a row of shipping-container food stalls on a quiet stretch of Dundas, is an incubator for some of Toronto’s most interesting new food businesses, playing host to everything from Zimbabwean to Jamaican food.

TRY JAMAICAN-CHINESE FUSION AT PATOIS

The Chinese-Jamaican-Southern mishmash you see at hip Dundas West joint Patois is unlike any other in town. The party-ready spot is fueled by dishes from the chef’s Jamaican-Chinese upbringing, with plenty of tropical cocktails to wash it all down.

The offerings change as businesses come and go.

FEEL THE HEAT WITH CARIBBEAN EATS

Toronto’s thriving Caribbean population fuels a vibrant dining scene. Many of the old-school Caribbean roti joints have fallen victim to rising rents, but mom and pops like Ali’s Roti in Parkdale are still holding strong. Most of the best Caribbean dining is in the suburbs these days.

Best Bars and Nightlife in Toronto

BIRRERIA VOLO

Though it only opened in 2016, this narrow Little Italy bar feels like it’s been there forever, with its weathered exposed brick, walled-off courtyard space, and beer hall-style tables and benches. You’ll find 26 beers and ciders on tap here—including rare and limited-edition brews.

THE DRAKE HOTEL

The Drake (no relation to the rapper) packs in an underground club, a loungey ground-floor bar and restaurant, and a dynamic rooftop patio decked out with ever-changing art installations. On any given night, there could be DJs, a hip-hop show, cooking competitions, readings or dance parties happening on the premises, and the food and cocktails are some of the best in the city.

BARCHEF

There’s no shortage of bars making artful drinks in this city, but the creations at Barchef are on another level entirely. Housemade bitters and infusions like sage pisco and fig rum form the backbone of the adventurous cocktail menu, which features gels, foams, and smoke alongside your usual syrups and spirits. Simpler cocktails—and with a half-dozen ingredients each, we mean that loosely—clock in at around $16 and go (way) up from there.

COCKTAIL BAR

Restaurateur Jen Agg is a household name in Toronto, and the drinks are never an afterthought at her restaurants. The proof is in the pudding at Cocktail Bar in Dundas West, where the ceiling is covered in pressed tin tiles and bottles gleam behind glass-paned cabinet doors. The drinks menu takes some delicious left turns from classic cocktails, including the Steamboat Rickey, which melds cachaça and aquavit with celery, dill, and lime.

COLD TEA

It’s essentially a Toronto rite of passage: walk into a lifeless-looking Kensington Market strip mall in the dead of night, look for the door illuminated with a single red light bulb, and step into dive bar Narnia. Named for the possibly-apocryphal Chinatown practice of ordering a teapot full of beer in unlicensed restaurants, Cold Tea is a modern, neon-lit spot where DJs spin and bartenders will invent something for you on the spot depending on what you feel like drinking.

BAR RAVAL

It takes its cues from a classic pintxos bar, but you’d be hard pressed to find another place in Toronto (or anywhere) quite like Bar Raval. The compact interior, cloaked entirely in sculpted waves of mahogany, could be best described as a hobbit hole designed by Antonio Gaudí—a dramatic, elegant backdrop for noshing and drinking liberal amounts of sherry and vermouth, both poured solo and as star ingredients in cocktails. The food is just as good.

REPOSADO

Reposado, a dimly lit shrine to tequila and mezcal, still pulls them in night after night, providing a romantic, slightly transgressive backdrop for sampling flights of premium tequila (there isn’t much shot-pounding going on here).

MAHJONG BAR

Mahjong Bar doesn’t look like much from the outside; in fact, it looks just like a little pink-walled convenience store, complete with boxes of Kraft Dinner, bags of Cheetos, and a few vintage girly magazines for effect. The real magic happens behind a smoke-gray vinyl curtain, which opens up to a massive back room with a lush jungle mural, cozy booths, and a checkerboard dance floor. Cocktails are tropical-inspired and delicious.

THE BAR AT ALO

Alo needs no introduction among Canadian foodies—the downtown restaurant has been named the top spot in the country multiple times, with reservations slots that fill as quickly as they become available. Happily, the restaurant’s adjoining bar space takes no reservations, and it’s a top-flight experience in its own right. Service at the wraparound bar is impeccable and knowledgeable, with drinks tailored to customer preference. The bar food, which includes seafood crudo and sumptuous desserts, absolutely holds a candle to the stuff being served next door.

BELLWOODS

Toronto has enjoyed a beer boom in recent years, but even with new breweries popping up monthly, Bellwoods is still the reigning champ. The two-floor flagship on Ossington is still a hot destination nearly a decade in, largely due to the industrial-cool atmosphere, sunny front patio, and tasty bar snacks. But the main draw, naturally, is a line-up of creative seasonal beers, many of which are produced in ultra-limited amounts.

The Best Thing to Do in Every Toronto Neighborhood

HARBOURFRONT

One of downtown Toronto’s best experiences isn’t in the downtown core at all, but a short, skyline-filled ferry ride away. The Toronto Islands are a conveniently located getaway just off the shore of Lake Ontario, offering peaceful beaches (including the notorious clothing-optional section of Hanlan’s Point) and beautiful parks. Families will enjoy the Centreville amusement park; if you’re hungry, stop on the giant patio at Island Cafe or grab a pint at Toronto Island BBQ and Beer.

QUEEN WEST

Queen West has become increasingly corporate as the years pass and rents rise, but this mazelike array of back alleys is a homegrown outdoor shrine to street art. The result of a city revitalization project launched in 2011, Graffiti Alley (sometimes referred to as Rush Lane) serves as an ever-changing museum of work by some of the city’s foremost street artists, and is a perennially popular setting for music videos and photo shoots. Once you’ve walked up an appetite, head around the corner to Queen and grab some great cheap eats at Banh Mi Boys, Saffron Spice Kitchen, or Burger’s Priest.

ENTERTAINMENT DISTRICT

This downtown district’s biggest draw is its collection of theaters. The Royal Alexandra, built in 1907, has played host to major touring musicals like Kinky Boots; down the street is sister theater the Princess of Wales, a modern glass-walled space that’s hosted Mamma Mia and Book of Mormon. Across the street is Roy Thomson Hall, home to the Toronto Symphony Orchestra. If film is more your speed, check out what’s screening at the TIFF Bell Lightbox, which serves as the main hub for the Toronto International Film Festival in September but spotlights both classics and indie flicks year-round.

FINANCIAL DISTRICT

Unsurprisingly, Toronto’s main office district is home to a lot of top-shelf restaurants ready to give those expense accounts a hearty workout. Canoe, one of the city’s best-known fine dining destinations, could coast on the views from its 54th-floor perch—but instead, it offers a vibrant menu that highlights Canada’s seasonal bounty. Down at street level in the same building, Bymark specializes in luxe comfort foods like lobster grilled cheese sandwiches. Richmond Station and Drake One Fifty are slightly more laid-back, but no less impressive.

THE DANFORTH

This east-end neighborhood is more broadly known by its other name, Greektown, and the area is filled with no shortage of places—from hole-in-the-wall bakeries to sit-down spots with live entertainment—to get your feta fix. On the take-out side, there’s quick and reliable spots like Messini or the slightly grungy Alexandros (which stays open until 4 am). For something more elaborate, there’s Christina’s, home to some great Greek dips, plus belly dancers and a Greek band on weekends, and Mezes, a lively spot with a heated patio. Summer festivals like Thrill of the Grill and Taste of the Danforth bring the party outdoors.

QUEEN’S PARK

To locals, Queen’s Park refers to not only the neighborhood, but the historic Ontario Legislative Building that serves as the seat of the provincial government. Built in 1893, the pink sandstone building takes its cues from British architecture, with a hefty collection of artwork from Canada and abroad. Just a few blocks west, you’ll hit the edge of the University of Toronto’s sprawling campus, which is packed with stately buildings, including the neo-Gothic Hart House. Bibliophiles won’t want to miss the Thomas Fisher Rare Book Library, which is home to a Babylonian cuneiform tablet and one of the few surviving copies of Shakespeare’s First Folio.

CHURCH-WELLESLEY

The Village, as the locals call it, is the epicenter of gay life in Toronto. Glad Day, the world’s oldest LGBTQ bookstore, is a must-visit; you can check out the latest voices in queer lit while sipping on a coffee or digging into brunch at the on-site café. Crews & Tangos hosts dancing and drag shows, while Woody’s is home to some very fun events (the weekly “Best Butt” contest is a favorite) and nightly DJs. If you’re around in June, the Pride festivities are among some of the biggest in the world; don’t miss the Pride parade at the end of the month.

OLD TOWN

A must-visit for history buffs and foodies alike, the St. Lawrence Market started its storied life as Toronto’s first city hall, then as a prison. Now, the sprawling space is jammed with vendors offering all manner of meats, cheeses, breads, produce, and artisanal foods. Be sure to pick up a peameal (aka Canadian) bacon sandwich at Carousel Bakery, and check out the farmers’ market on Saturday and flea market on Sunday.

THE DISTILLERY DISTRICT

Once the site of the biggest distillery in the world, this historic neighborhood’s industrial Victorian architecture has been carefully preserved; instead of pumps and stills, the rows of rough-hewn brick buildings now hold cute boutiques and cafés. Be sure to stop at Balzac’s for a coffee or Mill Street for a pint; pick up chocolates at Soma and scout for fashions at Gotstyle or John Fluevog.

YONGE-DUNDAS SQUARE AREA

Referred to (accurately, if somewhat quaintly) as Toronto’s answer to Times Square, Dundas Square is best known as a busy shopping area, flanked by the Eaton Centre—but its array of stores, with few exceptions, can be found in most big U.S. cities. Be sure to take a little time to check out the square itself, which frequently plays host to outdoor shows (including bigger names during Canadian Music Week in May and Pride in June), cultural events, food festivals and more. Even if nothing’s going on, it’s a good place to take a breather and people-watch.

CHINATOWN

Toronto’s largest Chinatown has been going strong since a wave of Chinese immigration in the 1960s, and though rents are rising and hip cafés and streetwear boutiques have been creeping into the area, this stretch of Spadina Avenue is still home to some of the city’s best Chinese food. Among your options: dumplings at Mother’s and Dumpling House, frills-free dim sum at Rol San, seafood specialties at Taste of China, and late-night eats at New Ho King. If you’re craving something else, there’s all-night Vietnamese at Pho Pasteur and modernized bar snacks at R&D.

KENSINGTON MARKET

Kensington Market is an oasis of bohemian weirdness in the heart of downtown, a neighborhood of colorful homes, ramshackle shops, and often-inexpensive (and delicious) multicultural eats. Vintage hounds should stop into the shops that line Kensington Avenue for all manner of leather jackets and vintage Levi’s, while foodies can dig into Indigenous cuisine (Pow Wow Cafe), jerk chicken (Rasta Pasta), amazing Baja-style fish tacos (Seven Lives), and even artistic small plates and natural wines (Grey Gardens).

WEST QUEEN WEST

This hip district is home to a wealth of boutiques that walk the line between quirky artfulness and practical wearability. Hunt for locally made leather bags at Zane, browse the Canadiana-themed gifts at Drake General Store, invest in a special piece at Horses Atelier, or give your wardrobe a burst of pattern at Coal Miner’s Daughter, Hayley Elsaesser, or Birds Of North America. If you’ve got time to spare, head up to Dundas West for more indie boutiques, including Easy Tiger and Comrags.

PARKDALE

Queen West used to be Toronto’s gallery central, but rising rents have pushed many west and north into farther reaches of the city. A number have settled in Parkdale, a gradually gentrifying neighborhood with a large immigrant population. You’ll find Margin of Eras, a gallery dedicated to marginalized artists; contemporary-focused Elaine Fleck Gallery, and the wide-ranging Northern Contemporary, which doubles as an art studio. Pop up to Dundas West to find the photography-focused Stephen Bulger Gallery and Hashtag, a space focused on emerging artists.

OSSINGTON

If your Toronto travel plans include a bar crawl, odds are you’ll end up on the Ossington strip, which has become one of the city’s hottest nightlife destinations in recent years. Bellwoods is a low-key brewery that does the most sought-after beers in town, while Reposado is a candlelit shrine to tequila and mescal. Where Ossington meets Dundas, you’ll find the Dakota Tavern, a bar that hosts folk, country, and bluegrass shows, while the Communist’s Daughter is a tiny booze-can stuffed with locals. Veer just off Ossington to find neon-lit club and restaurant SoSo Food Club and Mahjong Bar, a gorgeous secret club hidden behind a bodega.

LESLIEVILLE

This low-key neighborhood has plenty of hidden-gem restaurants, stores, and cafés, but it’s also become an epicenter of the city’s recent brewery boom. Eastbound and Radical Road are low-key brewpubs with some unusual specialties, while Avling is a gorgeous, pastel-washed new space with a rooftop garden that fuels the kitchen. Veer north to Gerrard for Left Field, a baseball-themed brewery that turns out some of the city’s finest sours and IPAs, and Godspeed, which offers a novel mash-up of Japanese and German styles.

LITTLE INDIA

Largely off the tourist beaten path, this east-end neighborhood is still lined with mom and pop businesses selling saris, bangles, and delicious eats. Lahore Tikka House, which splits its menu between North Indian and Pakistani, is the undisputed go-to for tandoori, kebabs, and biryani, while Udupi Palace has the market cornered on vegetarian eats, and Bombay Chowpatty offers fresh Indian snacks alongside an impressive selection of Bollywood DVDs. If you’re not in the mood for Indian, pop by watering hole Eulalie’s Corner Store or Lake Inez, a modern pan-Asian snack bar with a mosaic mural of Kate Bush and Virginia Woolf.

THE BEACHES

The sandy shores that lend this largely residential east-end neighborhood its name are without a doubt its top selling point for visitors. The beach, which is quite clean and certified safe for swimming, is divided into two main chunks. Woodbine, a long, sandy stretch that plays host to volleyball courts, paddleboards, and canoe rentals, is popular with families and beach partiers alike. Meanwhile, a ten-minute boardwalk stroll to the east, Kew-Balmy is rockier and less-crowded, the perfect spot for a quiet beach read or a dip in the lake.

THE ANNEX

Tucked north of the student strip on Bloor West is the sprawling Casa Loma, a Gothic Revival-style mansion built in the 1910s as the home of ultra-wealthy financier Henry Pellatt, at a cost of $3.5 million (yep, that’s in 1913 dollars). The lushly decorated 98-room estate now serves as a museum and event venue, complete with stables, 60-foot-tall ballroom, pipe organ, collection of vintage cars, and five-acre gardens.

LITTLE ITALY

Little Italy has had its share of identities—first a stronghold for Portuguese and Italian families, then a burgeoning nightclub district—and now, finally, it seems to have found a way to balance the two. There are plenty of classic dining destinations like Cafe Diplomatico, an Italian spot known for its popular side patio. But a new generation of Italian restaurants like the imaginative, fine dining-influenced Il Covo and sleekly modern Giulietta have also settled in. Of course, it’s not all checkered tablecloths: you can also get a serious fried chicken sandwich at P.G. Clucks, hunker down with some Vietnamese-inspired snacks at Pinky’s Ca Phe, or try some Belgian brews at Birreria Volo.

YORKVILLE

Toronto’s “mink mile” is home to some excellent cultural institutions (the Royal Ontario Museum and the Bata Shoe Museum, to name a couple) — but what the area is really known for is its shopping. Hermès, Prada, Gucci, and many, many other boldface names maintain storefronts along Bloor Street; you can find even more at Holt Renfrew, Canada’s fanciest department store, which packs in bags, clothing, shoes, and beauty products and has a separate men’s store down the block. Head north into the heart of the neighborhood to find the Yorkville Village mall and a number of independent boutiques catering to the well-heeled.

ROSEDALE

Though it’s no less moneyed, Rosedale is a lot less splashy than Yorkville, and the shopping is a lot more subdued. Stock up on skincare products at Gee Beauty; pick up sleek, sumptuous leather goods at WANT Les Essentiels De La Vie; grab a cute, homespun-looking beanie or throw pillow at Tuck Shop Trading Co.; or stock up on fancy condiments at Summerhill Market. If your souvenir-shopping tastes run toward hard-to-find wines and spirits, the Summerhill location of the provincially-run LCBO liquor store—located inside a historic train station—is a must-visit; things appear on the shelves here that you just can’t find anywhere else.

What’s New in Toronto

It can be hard to define a city like Toronto. It’s culturally diverse, to be sure, but that’s not exactly a unifying characteristic. So what exactly is Toronto all about? Americans call Torontonians friendly and the city clean, while other Canadians say its locals can be rude and egocentric. Toronto is often touted simply as a “livable” city, a commendable but dull virtue. Toronto might not be quite as exciting as New York City, as quaint as Montréal, as outdoorsy as Vancouver, or as historic as London, but instead it’s a patchwork of all these qualities. And rest assured that Toronto is clean, safe, and just all-around nice. Torontonians say “sorry” when they jostle you. They recycle and compost. They obey traffic laws. For many, Toronto is like the boy next door you eventually marry after fooling around with New York or Los Angeles. Why not cut the charade and start the love affair now?

DIVERSITY

Toronto is one of the most immigrant-friendly cities on the planet, and the city’s official motto, “Diversity Our Strength,” reflects this hodgepodge of ethnicities. More than half its population is foreign-born, and half of all Torontonians are native speakers of a foreign language. (The “other” national language of French, however, is not one of the most commonly spoken languages here, trailing Chinese, Portuguese, Punjabi, and Tagalog.) In a few hours in Toronto you can travel the globe, from Little India to Little Italy, Koreatown to Greektown, or at least eat your way around it, from Polish pierogi to Chinese dim sum to Portuguese salt-cod fritters.

NEIGHBORHOODS

Every city has neighborhoods, but Toronto’s are particularly diverse, distinctive, and walkable. Some were once their own villages, and many, such as the Danforth (Greektown), Little Portugal, and Chinatown, are products of the ethnic groups who first settled there. For the most part, boundaries aren’t fixed and are constantly evolving: on a five-minute walk down Bloor Street West you can pass a Portuguese butcher, an Ethiopian restaurant, a hip espresso bar, and a Maltese travel agency. In the 1970s and ’80s, areas such as Yorkville and Queen West were transformed by struggling-artist types and have since grown into downright affluent, retail powerhouses. In the last decade once run-down neighborhoods, including West Queen West and Leslieville, have blossomed into funky, boho areas with enviable shopping and eating options with housing prices to match. Barring a change in fortune, gentrification is set to continue to more areas.

CULTURE

The Toronto International Film Festival, the Art Gallery of Ontario, Canada’s center for magazine and book publishing, national ballet and opera companies, the Toronto Symphony Orchestra—these are just a handful of the many reasons Toronto attracts millions of arts and culture lovers each year to live, work, and play. On any given day or night, you’ll find events to feed the brain and the spirit: art gallery openings, poetry readings, theatrical releases, film revues, dance performances, and festivals showcasing the arts, from the focused Toronto Jazz Festival and the North by Northeast indie rock extravaganza to events marrying visual and performing arts, like Nuit Blanche and Luminato.

THE WATERFRONT

Lake Ontario forms Toronto’s very obvious southern border, but residents who live out of its view often forget it’s there until they attend an event at the Canadian National Exhibition or the Harbourfront Centre. It’s one of the city’s best features, especially in the summer, providing opportunities for boating, ferrying to the Toronto Islands, or strolling, biking, or jogging beside the water. The lakeshore is more of an attraction than ever, with ongoing initiatives to revitalize the waterfront and create more parks, beaches, and walkways.

FOOD

There’s no shortage of amazing restaurants in this city, and local and fresh produce is all the rage. Celebrity chefs like Lynn Crawford, Mark McEwan, and Jamie Kennedy give locavores street cred, while Toronto’s cornucopia of cultures means you can sample almost any cuisine, from Abyssinian to Yemeni. Nowhere is the Toronto love of food more apparent, perhaps, than at St. Lawrence Market, where you can pick up nonessentials like fiddlehead ferns, elk burgers, truffle oil, and mozzarella di bufala. In warm weather, farmers’ markets bring the province’s plenty to the city.

What’s Hot in Toronto Now?

After years of continuous condo construction and a recent building boom that included a bevy of luxury hotels, Toronto’s distinctive skyline is becoming a blur of glossy high-rise buildings. The CN Tower still stretches above it all, making the loftiest architecture appear pretty insignificant.

A newer addition to the ever-changing skyline is the L Tower, a curvaceous glass building located downtown by Union Station, where the UP Express train now runs to Pearson International Airport—a much needed direct link from downtown to the city’s main airport.

And speaking of airports and shoreline, the controversial Toronto Island Airport (also known as Billy Bishop Airport), squeezed between the edge of Toronto Island and the harborfront, is pushing to add more flights and bigger planes. That would provide local jet setters even greater convenience, but annoy the lakeshore’s residents to no end.

The subway has been extended into the northern suburbs where so many Torontonians live, and a light rail line is under construction along Eglinton, through uptown Toronto’s cosmopolitan hub.

Top Sports Experiences

Toronto has a love–hate relationship with its professional sports teams, and fans can sometimes be accused of being fair-weather, except when it comes to hockey, which has always attracted rabid, sell-out crowds whether the Maple Leafs win, lose, or draw. In other words, don’t count on getting Leafs tickets but take heart that sports bars will be filled with fired-up fans. It can be easier, however, to score tickets to Blue Jays (baseball), Raptors (basketball), Argos (football), and Toronto FC (soccer) games—depending on who they play.

Ticketmaster. This outlet is a good resource for game tickets. P 416/345–9200 w www.ticketmaster.ca.

If you prefer to work up a sweat yourself, consider golf at one of the GTA’s courses, ice-skating at a city rink in winter, or exploring the many parks and beaches.

BASEBALL

Toronto Blue Jays. Toronto’s professional baseball team plays late March through September. They won consecutive World Series championships in 1992 and 1993, and playoff runs in 2015 and 2016. The spectacular Rogers Centre (formerly the SkyDome) has a fully retractable roof; some consider it one of the world’s premier entertainment centers. E Rogers Centre, 1 Blue Jays Way, Harbourfront P 416/341–1234 ticket line, 888/654–6529 toll-free ticket line w www.bluejays.com m Union.

BASKETBALL

Toronto Raptors. The city’s NBA franchise, this team played its first season in 1995–96. For several years they struggled mightily to win both games and fans in this hockey-mad city, but the Raptors have finally come into their own, particularly after winning the 2019 NBA Championship. Single-game tickets are available beginning in September; the season is from October through May. E Scotiabank Arena, 40 Bay St., at Gardiner Expwy., Harbourfront P 416/366–3865 w www.nba.com/raptors m Union.

FOOTBALL

Toronto Argonauts. The Toronto Argonauts Canadian Football League (CFL) team has a healthy following. American football fans who attend a CFL game often discover a faster, more unpredictable and exciting contest than the American version. The longer, wider field means quarterbacks have to scramble more. Tickets for games (June–November) are usually a cinch to get. E BMO Field, Harbourfront P 416/341–2746 w www.argonauts.ca m Union.

GOLF

The golf season lasts only from April to late October. Discounted rates are usually available until mid-May and after Canadian Thanksgiving (early October). All courses are best reached by car.

Angus Glen Golf Club. This club has remained one of the country’s best places to play since it opened in 1995, hosting the Canadian Open in 2002 and 2007 on its par-72 South and North courses, respectively, and the 2015 Pan Am Games. It’s a 45-minute drive north of downtown. E 10080 Kennedy Rd., Markham P 905/887–0090, 905/887–5157 reservations w www.angusglen.com.

Don Valley Golf Course. About a 20-minute drive north of downtown, this is a par-72, 18-hole municipal course. Despite being right in the city, it’s a lovely, hilly course with water hazards and tree-lined fairways. E 4200 Yonge St., North York P 416/392–2465 w www.toronto.ca/parks/golf.

Glen Abbey Golf Club. This Jack Nicklaus–designed 18-hole, par-73 club is considered to be Canada’s top course. It’s in the affluent suburb of Oakville, about 45 minutes west of the city. E 1333 Dorval Dr., just north of QEW, Oakville P 905/844–1800 w glenabbey.clublink.ca.

HOCKEY

Toronto Maple Leafs. Hockey is as popular as you’ve heard here, and Maple Leafs fans are particularly ardent. Even though the Leafs haven’t won a Stanley Cup since 1967, they continue to inspire fierce devotion in Torontonians. If you want a chance to cheer them on, you’ll have to get on the puck. No matter the stats, Leafs tickets are notoriously the toughest to score in the National Hockey League. The regular hockey season is October–mid-April. dingbat TIP → Buy tickets at least a few months in advance or risk the game’s being sold out. E Scotiabank Arena, 40 Bay St., at Gardiner Expwy., Harbourfront P 416/703–5623 w www.mapleleafs.com m Union.

Toronto Marlies. If you’re keen to see some hockey while you’re in town, go to a Toronto Marlies game at Coca-Cola Coliseum. The level of play is very high, and tickets are cheaper and easier to come by than those of the Marlies’ NHL affiliate, the Toronto Maple Leafs. E Coca-Cola Coliseum, 45 Manitoba Dr., Harbourfront P 416/597–7825 w www.marlies.ca m Union or Bathurst.

SOCCER

Toronto’s British roots combined with a huge immigrant population have helped make the Toronto Football Club (TFC), the newest addition to the city’s pro sports tapestry, a success. And during events like the FIFA World Cup, UEFA European Championship, and Copa América (America Cup), sports bars and cafés with TVs are teeming.

Toronto FC. Canada’s first Major League Soccer team and Toronto’s first professional soccer team in years, Toronto FC kicked off in 2006 in a stadium seating more than 25,000 fans. They get seriously pumped up for these games, singing fight songs, waving flags, and throwing streamers. Games sometimes sell out; single-game tickets go on sale a few days before the match. The season is March–October. E BMO Field, 170 Princes’ Blvd. P 855/985–5000 Ticketmaster w www.torontofc.ca m Union.

ICE-SKATING

Nathan Phillips Square Rink. This tiny rink is surrounded by towering skyscrapers in the heart of the Financial District. E 100 Queen St. W P 311 Toronto Parks, Forestry & Recreation rink hotline w nathanphillipssquareskaterentals.com m Queen or Osgoode.

Natrel Rink. This spacious, outdoor rink at Harbourfront Centre is often voted the best in the city due to its lakeside location and DJ’d skate nights. Skate rentals are C$8. E 235 Queens Quay W, Harbourfront P 416/973–4866 w www.harbourfrontcentre.com m Union.

If You Like

WINING AND DINING

Those in search of haute cuisine are pampered in Toronto, where some of the world’s finest chefs vie for the attention of the city’s sizable foodie population. Toronto’s range of exceptional eateries, from creative Asian fusion to more daring molecular gastronomy, offers wining and dining potential for every possible palate. Aromas of finely crafted sauces and delicately grilled meats emanate from eateries in Yorkville, where valet service and designer handbags are de rigueur, and the strip of bistros in the Entertainment District gets lively with theatergoing crowds. Weekdays at lunch, the Financial District’s Bay Street is a sea of Armani suits, crisply pressed shirts, and clicking heels heading to power lunches to make deals over steak frites.

Sassafraz. The staff here is sure to be attentive—they’re used to serving celebrities and power-wielding bigwigs who fill the Yorkville hot spot.

Bymark. An ultramodern and ultracool spot primed for the Financial District set; chef-owner Mark McEwan aims for perfection with classy contemporary fare.

Canoe. Toronto’s most famous “splurge” place. Sit back, enjoy the view, and let the waiter pair your dish with a recommended local Ontario wine.

The Hogtown Vegan. Popular, ultratrendy vegan nouvelle cuisine with a menu to rival any steak house.

COOL NEIGHBORHOODS

Toronto’s coolness doesn’t emanate from a downtown core or even a series of town centers. The action is everywhere in the city. Dozens of neighborhoods, each with its own scene and way of life, coexist within the vast metropolitan area.

West Queen West. As Queen Street West (to Bathurst Street or so) becomes more commercial and rents increase, more local artists and designers have moved farther west; it’s also home to a burgeoning night scene and experimental restaurants.

Kensington Market. This well-established bastion of bohemia for hippies of all ages is a grungy and multicultural several-block radius of produce, cheese, by-the-gram spices, fresh empanadas, used clothing, head shops, and funky restaurants and cafés.

The Annex. The pockets of wealth nestled in side streets add diversity to this scruffy strip of Bloor, the favorite haunt of the intellectual set, whether starving student or world-renowned novelist.

The Beaches. This bourgeois-bohemian neighborhood (also called The Beach) is the habitat of young professionals who frequent the yoga studios and sushi restaurants along Queen Street East and walk their pooches daily along Lake Ontario’s boardwalk.

PERFORMING ARTS

Refurbished iconic theaters such as the Royal Alexandra and Ed Mirvish theaters host a number of big-ticket shows in elegant surroundings. More modern venues such as the Princess of Wales Theatre highlight local and Broadway performances. The Four Seasons Centre is home to both the National Ballet of Canada and the Canadian Opera Company, which shares the music scene with the Toronto Symphony Orchestra and mainstream concerts at Meridian Hall and Massey Hall. Indie artists are attracted to the bars and grimy music venues on Queen Street West. (True theater buffs will also want to leave Toronto to hit the festivals of Stratford and Niagara-on-the-Lake.)

Massey Hall. Since 1894, this has been one of Toronto’s premier concert halls. British royals have been entertained here and legendary musicians have performed: Charlie Parker, Dizzy Gillespie, George Gershwin, Bob Dylan, and Luciano Pavarotti, to name a few. Orchestras, musicals, dance troupes, and comedians also perform at this palpably historic venue.

Rivoli. In this multifaceted venue, you can dine while admiring local art, catch a musical act, or watch stand-up. Before they were famous, Beck, the Indigo Girls, Iggy Pop, Janeane Garofalo, and Tori Amos all made appearances here.

Elgin and Winter Garden Theatre Centre. These two 1913 Edwardian theaters, one stacked on top of the other, provide sumptuous settings for classical music performances, musicals, opera, and Toronto International Film Festival screenings.

The Second City. The comedic troupes here always put on a great performance. Photo collages on the wall display the club’s alumni, including Mike Myers, Dan Aykroyd, and Catherine O’Hara.

ARCHITECTURE

A series of high-rises topping 50 stories is changing the skyline of the city forever. At one point, Toronto’s only celebrated icon was the CN Tower, but architects have been working hard to rejuvenate the cityscape in the new millennium—at a dizzying pace. In the past 15 years, the city has unveiled the transparent-glass-fronted Four Seasons Centre for the Performing Arts (Jack Diamond), the wood-and-glass Art Gallery of Ontario (Frank Gehry), the ROM’s deconstructed-crystal extension, and a redesign of Meridian Hall with attached residential 58-story, all-glass, swooping L Tower (both by Daniel Libeskind).

Philosopher’s Walk. This scenic path winds through the University of Toronto, from the entrance between the ROM and the Victorian Royal Conservatory of Music, past Trinity College’s Gothic chapel and towering spires. Also look for University College, an 1856 ivy-covered Romanesque Revival building, set back from the road across Hoskin Avenue.

ROMwalks. From May through October, free themed walks organized by the ROM tour some of the city’s landmark buildings, such as the Church of the Redeemer, the St. Lawrence Market, and the Royal York Hotel.

Art Gallery of Ontario. The Frank Gehry–designed building and its wooden facades, glass roofs, and four-story blue titanium wing are spectacular to admire from the outside or within.

Sharp Centre for Design. Locals are split by Will Alsop’s salt-and-pepper rectangle held aloft by giant colored-pencil-like stilts standing above the Ontario College of Art and Design (OCAD).

Toronto With Kids

Toronto is one of the most livable cities in the world, with many families residing downtown and plenty of activities to keep them busy. Throughout this guide, places that are especially appealing to families are indicated by FAMILY in the margin.

Always check what’s on at Harbourfront Centre, a cultural complex with shows and workshops for all ages. On any given day you could find a circus, clown school, musicians, juggling, storytelling, or acrobat shows. Even fearless kids’ (and adults’) eyes bulge at the 1,465-foot glass-elevator ride up the side of the CN Tower, and once they stand on the glass floor, their minds are officially blown.

Kids won’t realize they’re getting schooled at the ROM, with its Bat Cave and dinosaur skeletons, or the Ontario Science Centre, with interactive exhibits exploring the brain, technology, and outer space; documentaries are shown in the massive OMNIMAX dome. Out at the eastern end of the suburb of Scarborough, the well-designed Toronto Zoo is home to giraffes, polar bears, and gorillas. Less exotic animals hang at Riverdale Farm, in the more central Cabbagetown: get nose-to-nose with sheep, cows, and pigs.

Spending a few hours on the Toronto Islands is a good way to decompress. The Centreville Amusement Park and petting zoo is geared to the under-12 set, with tame rides, such as the log flume and an antique carousel. Alternatively, pile the whole family into a surrey to pedal along the carless roads, or lounge at the beach at Hanlan’s Point (warning: clothing-optional) or Ward’s Island (clothes generally worn). The Canadian National Exhibition (CNE), aka “the Ex,” is a huge three-week fair held in late August with carnival rides and games, puppet shows, a daily parade, and horse, dog, and cat shows. Kids can also pet and feed horses at the horse barn or tend to chickens and milk a cow on the “farm.” But the mother of all amusement parks is a half-hour drive north of the city at Canada’s Wonderland, home of Canada’s tallest and fastest roller coaster. In winter, ice-skating at the Harbourfront Centre is the quintessential family activity.

Young sports fans might appreciate seeing a Blue Jays (baseball), Maple Leafs (hockey), Raptors (basketball), or Toronto FC (soccer) game. To take on hockey greats in a virtual game and see the original Stanley Cup, head to the Hockey Hall of Fame.

Intelligent productions at the Young People’s Theatre don’t condescend to kids and teens, and many are just as entertaining for adults.

For the latest on upcoming shows and events, plus an overwhelming directory of stores and services, go to the website Toronto4Kids (w www.toronto4kids.com).