During the day, the warehouses in the Entertainment District might look deserted, but when the sun goes down, this neighborhood is party central. The bustle and excitement generated by Toronto’s clubbers, theatergoers, and night owls keep the show alive until the wee hours of the morning. Meanwhile, while the sidewalks of the Financial District are brimming with suits and cell phones during the day, after the sun sets, the area really quiets down. Still, there are a few notable attractions here, such as the Hockey Hall of Fame and the Design Exchange. As for the Harbourfront area, many of its most popular attractions are outdoors, so it’s especially appealing during warm weather.

Should a sudden downpour catch you off guard, shelter can be found in the area’s museums and the network of underground shopping.

Harbourfront

In fair weather, the Harbourfront area is appealing for strolls, and myriad recreational and amusement options make it ideal for those traveling with children. The nearby Toronto Islands provide a perfect escape from the sometimes stifling summer heat of downtown.

s Sights

dingbat CN Tower

OBSERVATORY | FAMILY | The tallest freestanding tower in the Western Hemisphere, this landmark stretches 1,815 feet and 5 inches high and marks Toronto with its distinctive silhouette. The CN Tower is so tall for a reason: prior to the opening of this telecommunications tower in 1976, so many buildings had been erected over the previous decades that lower radio and TV transmission towers had trouble broadcasting. It’s worth a visit to the top if the weather is clear, despite the steep fee. Six glass-front elevators zoom up the outside of the tower at 15 miles per hour, and the ride takes less than a minute. Each elevator has one floor-to-ceiling glass wall—three opaque walls make the trip easier on anyone prone to vertigo—and most have glass floor panels for the dizzying thrill of watching the earth disappear before your eyes.

Harbourfront, Entertainment District, and the Financial District

There are four observation decks. The Glass Floor Level, which is exactly what it sounds like, is 1,122 feet above the ground. This may be the most photographed indoor location in the city—lie on the transparent floor and have your picture taken from above like countless visitors before you. Don’t worry—the glass floor can support more than 48,000 pounds. Above is the LookOut Level, at 1,136 feet; one more floor above, at 1,151 feet, is the excellent 360 Restaurant. If you’re here to dine, your elevator fee is waived. At an elevation of 1,465 feet, the SkyPod is the world’s highest public observation gallery. All the levels provide spectacular panoramic views of Toronto, Lake Ontario, and the Toronto Islands, and on really clear days you may see the mist rising from Niagara Falls to the south. Adrenaline junkies can try the EdgeWalk attraction, which allows harnessed tower-goers to roam “hands free” around a 5-foot ledge outside the tower’s main pod. Reservations are required.

On the ground level, the Gift Shop at the Tower has 5,000 square feet of shopping space with quality Canadian travel items and souvenirs, along with a shop selling Inuit art. Displays and exhibits throughout the building feature the story of the construction and history of the Tower; how the Tower works today, including engineering components that make it such a unique attraction; and a dynamic weather display. Peak visiting hours are 11 to 4; you may wish to work around them, particularly on weekends. E 290 Bremner Blvd., Harbourfront P 416/868–6937, 416/362–5411 restaurant, 416/601–3833 EdgeWalk w www.cntower.ca A First 2 observation levels C$38, SkyPod C$15, EdgeWalk C$195 m Union.

Fort York

MILITARY SITE | The most historic site in Toronto is a must for anyone interested in the city’s origins. Toronto was founded in 1793 when the British built Fort York to protect the entrance to the harbor during Anglo-American strife. Twenty years later the fort was the scene of the bloody Battle of York, in which explorer and general Zebulon Pike led U.S. forces against the fort’s outnumbered British, Canadian, and First Nations defenders. The Americans won this battle—their first major victory in the War of 1812—and burned down the provincial buildings during a six-day occupation. A year later British forces retaliated when they captured Washington, D.C., and torched its public buildings, including the Executive Mansion. Exhibits include restored barracks, kitchens, and gunpowder magazines, plus changing museum displays. There are guided tours, marching drills, and cannon firings daily during the summer months. The visitor center has exhibits on the founding of York, the changing harbor, and the War of 1812, plus an area displaying rare and precious artifacts related to Toronto and Fort York’s history. E 250 Fort York Blvd., between Bathurst St. and Strachan Ave., Harbourfront P 416/392–6907 w www.fortyork.ca A C$9 m Bathurst.

Harbourfront Centre

STORE/MALL | FAMILY | Stretching from just west of York Street to Spadina Avenue, this culture-and-recreation center is a match for San Francisco’s Pier 39 and Baltimore’s Inner Harbor. The original Harbourfront opened in 1974, rejuvenating more than a mile of city and today’s Harbourfront Centre, a streamlined version of the original concept, draws more than 3 million visitors to the 10-acre site each year. Queen’s Quay Terminal at Harbourfront Centre is a former Terminal Warehouse building, where goods shipped to Toronto were stored before being delivered to shops in the city. In 1983 it was transformed into a magnificent, eight-story building with specialty shops, eateries, the 450-seat Fleck Dance Theatre, and plenty of harbor views. Exhibits of contemporary painting, sculpture, architecture, video, photography, and design are mounted at the Power Plant, which can be spotted by its tall red smokestack; it was built in 1927 as a power station for the Terminal Warehouse’s ice-making plant. Developed by renowned cellist Yo-Yo Ma and garden designer Julie Moir Messervy, the Music Garden on the south side of Queen’s Quay is Yo-Yo Ma’s interpretation of Johann Sebastian Bach’s Cello Suite No. 1 (which consists of six movements—Prelude, Allemande, Courante, Sarabande, Minuet, and Gigue). Each movement is reflected in the park’s elaborate design: undulating riverscape, a forest grove of wandering trails, a swirling path through a wildflower meadow, a conifer grove, a formal flower parterre, and giant grass steps. York Quay Centre hosts concerts, theater, readings, and even skilled artisans. The Craft Studio, for example, has professional craftspeople working in ceramics, glass, metal, and textiles from February to December, in full view of the public. A shallow pond outside is used for canoe lessons in warmer months and as the largest artificial ice-skating rink in North America in winter. At the nearby Nautical Centre, many private firms rent boats and give sailing and canoeing lessons. Among the seasonal events at Harbourfront Centre are the Ice Canoe Race in late January, Winterfest in February, a jazz festival in June, Canada Day celebrations and the Parade of Lights in July, the Authors’ Festival and Harvest Festival in October, and the Swedish Christmas Fair in November. E 235 Queen’s Quay W, Harbourfront P 416/973–4000 event hotline, 416/973–4600 offices w www.harbourfrontcentre.com m Union.

dingbat Ripley’s Aquarium of Canada

ZOO | North America’s largest aquarium is sleek and angular, and has shapes of sharks on the roof. It contains more than 450 species of marine life spread out between 45 exhibit spaces. Maintaining their philosophy to “foster environmental education, conservation, and research,” Ripley’s also lives up to its reputation for providing a wow-inducing entertainment venue. One exhibit simulates a Caribbean scuba diving experience, complete with bountiful tropical fish, coral reefs, and a bright blue sky above. Sharks are a dominant theme: you can wind your way through tunnels that take you right into the almost 80,000-gallon shark tank, which houses three species of sharks and more than 5,000 other aquatic animals. The shark pattern on the roof is an unexpected treat for visitors peering down on the aquarium from the top of the CN Tower. E 288 Bremner Blvd., Harbourfront P 647/351–3474 w www.ripleyaquariums.com/canada A C$30 m Union or St. Andrews.

Rogers Centre

SPORTS VENUE | FAMILY | One of Toronto’s most famous landmarks, the Rogers Centre is home to baseball’s Blue Jays and was the world’s first stadium with a fully retractable roof. Rogers Communications, the owner of the Blue Jays, bought the stadium, formerly known as the SkyDome, in February 2005 for a mere C$25 million. One way to see the 52,000-seat stadium is to buy tickets for a Blue Jays game or one of the many other events and concerts that take place here. You can also take a one-hour guided walking tour: the route depends on what’s going on at the stadium, so you may find yourself in the middle of the field, in a press box, in the dressing rooms, or, if a roof tour is available, 36 stories above home plate on a catwalk. E 1 Blue Jays Way, Harbourfront P 416/341–2770 for tours, 416/341–1234 for ticket information w www.rogerscentre.com A Tours C$17 m Union.

dingbat Toronto Island Park

ISLAND | FAMILY | These 14 narrow, tree-lined islands, just off the city’s downtown, in Lake Ontario, provide a gorgeous green retreat with endless outdoor activities. The more than 230 hectares of parkland are hard to resist, especially in the summer, when they’re usually a few degrees cooler than the city.

Sandy beaches fringe the islands; the best are on the southeast tip of Ward’s Island, the southernmost edge of Centre Island, and the west side of Hanlan’s Point. In 1999 a portion of Hanlan’s Beach was officially declared “clothing-optional” by the Toronto City Council. The declaration regarding Ontario’s only legal nude beach passed without protest—perhaps a testament to the city’s live-and-let-live attitude. In the summer, Centre Island has bike and row boat rentals. Bring picnic fixings or something to grill in one of the park’s barbecue pits, or grab a quick (but expensive) bite at one of the snack bars. (Note that the consumption of alcohol in a public park is illegal in Toronto.) There are also supervised wading pools, baseball diamonds, volleyball nets, tennis courts, and even a disc-golf course. Winter can be bitterly cold on the islands, but snowshoeing and cross-country skiing with downtown Toronto over your shoulder are appealing activities.

All transportation on the islands is self-powered; no private cars are permitted. The boardwalk from Centre Island to Ward’s Island is 2½ km (1½ miles) long. Bikes are allowed on all ferries, or you can rent one for an hour or so once you get there. Bike rentals can be found south of the Centre Island ferry docks on the Avenue of the Islands.

You may want to take one of the equally frequent ferries to Ward’s Island or Hanlan’s Point from Jack Layton Ferry Terminal. Both islands have tennis courts and picnic and sunbathing spots. Late May through early September, the ferries run between the docks at the bottom of Bay Street and the Ward’s Island dock between 6:35 am and 11:45 am; for Centre and Hanlan’s islands, they begin at 8 am. Ward’s Island Ferries run roughly at half-hour intervals most of the working day and at quarter-hour intervals during peak times such as summer evenings. In winter the ferries run only to Ward’s Island on a limited schedule. E Ferries at foot of Bay St. and Queen’s Quay, Harbourfront P 416/392–8186 for island information, 311 for ferry information w www.toronto.ca/parks/island A Ferry C$8 round-trip m Union.

r Restaurants

The vibe here in summer is decidedly beachy; take a stroll along the lake, stopping for lunch on one of the breezy patios. If you brought your bathing suit, head to Sugar Beach—an urban oasis where locals sunbathe. Or work off that lunch by renting one of the city’s public bikes and pedal around until you’re ready for dinner.

Against the Grain Urban Tavern

$$$ | CANADIAN | Making the most of its proximity to Sugar Beach, Against the Grain is a sunbathing destination minutes from downtown, with a stellar patio in full sunny view of the lake. Shareable apps like nachos and wings, plus a great craft beer selection, capitalize on the laid-back vibe. Sink your teeth into comfort food mains like the fried chicken, Beyond Meat burger, or the naan chicken club. Known for: great water views; popular with the after-work crowd; diverse comfort food menu. D Average main: C$21 E Corus Bldg., 25 Dockside Dr., Corus Bldg., Harbourfront P 647/344–1562 w corusquay.atgurbantavern.ca m Union.

E11even

$$$ | AMERICAN | By day, E11even presents steak-house fare for the downtown business crowd; by night, concertgoers and sports fans slide into wooden booths for a refined meal or nightcap. The menu of North American classics includes savory-sweet maple-glazed bacon, salads flanked with seared tuna, steak frites, and casual fare like kosher beef dogs and lobster rolls. The wine list is also impressive. Known for: 3,200-bottle-long wine list; refined atmosphere; the steak, of course. D Average main: C$30 E 15 York St., Harbourfront P 416/815–1111 w www.e11even.ca C Closed Sun. No lunch Sat. m Union.

Harbour Sixty Steakhouse

$$$$ | STEAKHOUSE | Bucking the trend toward relaxed fine dining, Harbour Sixty goes for sheer opulence, the drama of which is apparent from the get-go as you walk up stone steps to the grand entrance of the restored Harbour Commission building. The kitchen rises to the occasion with starters like the zesty shrimp cocktail and mains like a bone-in rib steak. The fluffy coconut cream pie is a must-eat dessert. Known for: extravagant interior; extensive wine list; authentic fine dining experience. D Average main: C$60 E 60 Harbour St., Harbourfront P 416/777–2111 w www.harboursixty.com C No lunch weekends m Union.

Real Sports Bar & Grill

$$ | AMERICAN | This is an out-size shrine to the world of sports. No matter what game you want to catch—baseball, football, basketball, hockey, or tennis—you’ll be able to pull up a seat near a television (the two-story HDTV that dominates the space, if you’re lucky) and take in the action. While you’re here, nosh on outside-the-box bar eats like smoked ribs braised in soy sauce and lime juice. Known for: intense sports crowd vibe; packed with 200 television screens; more than 100 beer taps. D Average main: C$19 E 15 York St., Harbourfront P 416/815–7325 w www.realsports.ca m Union.

h Hotels

Staying around here is convenient for exploring the greatest concentration of Toronto’s must-see attractions—especially the kid-friendly ones—like the Rogers Centre, Ontario Place, and the CN Tower.

Delta Hotel Toronto

$$$ | HOTEL | Just steps from the Rogers Centre, CN Tower, and Ripley’s Aquarium (as well as the waterfront), the Delta Toronto has rooms with great views. Pros: connected to the PATH, convention center, and Union Station; modern decor and clean, spacious rooms; attentive staff. Cons: rooms can fill up quickly; parking is expensive; no mini-refrigerator. D Rooms from: C$309 E 75 Lower Simcoe St., Harbourfront P 416/849–1200, 888/890–3222 w www.deltatoronto.com a 541 rooms X Free breakfast m Union.

Le Germain Hotel Maple Leaf Square

$$$ | HOTEL | Inside the Maple Leaf Square complex, this ultrastylish hotel is perfectly poised to receive traffic from the Scotiabank Arena across the street and the Rogers Centre just minutes away. Pros: near Billy Bishop Toronto City Airport; attached to PATH network; great service. Cons: area is boisterous when events are happening at nearby Scotiabank Arena; limited equipment in fitness center; very basic continental breakfast. D Rooms from: C$296 E 75 Bremner Blvd., Harbourfront P 416/649–7575, 888/940–7575 w www.germainmapleleafsquare.com a 167 rooms X Free breakfast m Union.

Radisson Hotel Admiral Toronto–Harbourfront

$$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | You can’t get much closer to Toronto’s waterfront than this hotel, where unobstructed Lake Ontario and Toronto Islands vistas come standard. Pros: easy access to local attractions; beautiful outdoor pool; excellent views. Cons: neighborhood seems out of the way; pool is open to the public; rates are pricey. D Rooms from: C$309 E 249 Queen’s Quay W, at York St., Harbourfront P 416/203–3333, 800/395–7046 w www.radisson.com a 157 rooms X No meals m Union.

Westin Harbour Castle

$$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | On a clear day you can see the skyline of Rochester, New York, across the sparkling blue Lake Ontario from most rooms at this midrange, kid-friendly hotel. Pros: very comfortable beds; great kids’ programs; pet-friendly. Cons: not right in downtown; hotel can feel overwhelmingly large; decor is rather dated. D Rooms from: C$349 E 1 Harbour Sq., at Bay St., Harbourfront P 416/869–1600, 866/716–8101 w www.marriott.com/yyzwi a 977 rooms X No meals m Union.

n Nightlife

In general, this area is quiet after dark, but a nightlife scene is slowly emerging as more condos are built and the waterfront gets more and more developed. Waterfront concerts take place here in summer, and dinner cruises leave from the Harbourfront.

BARS

Real Sports Bar & Grill

BARS/PUBS | No hole-in-the-wall sports bar, this sleek 25,000-square-foot space adjacent to the Scotiabank Arena lights up with almost 200 high-definition flat-screen TVs and amazing sightlines from every club-style booth, table, or stool at one of the three bars. Head to the second floor to watch a game on the biggest TV, an HDTV screen two stories high. For popular sporting events, or any day or night the Leafs or Raptors play, it’s best to make a reservation (accepted up to three weeks in advance), though the bar does keep a third of its seats for walk-in traffic an hour before face-off. E 15 York St., at Bremner Blvd., Harbourfront P 416/815–7325 w www.realsports.ca m Union.

BREWERIES

Amsterdam BrewHouse

BREWPUBS/BEER GARDENS | This brewpub features two massive bars with more than 10 brews on tap, an open-concept kitchen with an imported Italian wood-burning pizza oven, and a sprawling patio with stunning views of the Toronto Islands. The building, a former 1930s boathouse, also houses a brewery; tours and beer tastings are available daily. Tours are free, but book in advance. E 245 Queens Quay W., Harbourfront P 416/504–1020 w www.amsterdambeer.com m Union.

p Performing Arts

MAJOR VENUES

Harbourfront Centre

ARTS CENTERS | When looking for cultural events in Toronto, make sure to check the schedule at the Harbourfront Centre. A cultural playground, it has two art galleries (The Power Plant and Artport), a music garden (where summertime concerts happen) co-designed by Yo-Yo Ma, as well as many festivals and cultural events, some especially for kids and many of them free. The campus has two theaters for dance and a renowned dance series called Torque. The Fleck Dance Theatre was built specifically for modern dance in 1983. The outdoor Concert Stage hosts some of the best local and Canadian modern and contemporary companies, in addition to some international acts. The Harbourfront Centre Theatre welcomes these same types of dance performances as well as plays and concerts. The theaters are small (under 500 seats) so you’re never far from the stage. E 235 Queen’s Quay W, at Lower Simcoe St., Harbourfront P 416/973–4000 w www.harbourfrontcentre.com m Union, then 510 streetcar.

Rogers Centre

CONCERTS | Toronto’s largest performance venue, with seating for up to 52,000, is the spot for the biggest shows in town—the Rolling Stones, Bruce Springsteen, Justin Bieber—though the acoustically superior Scotiabank Arena is the more widely used arena venue. E 1 Blue Jays Way, at Spadina Ave., Harbourfront P 855/985–5000 concert and event tickets w https://www.mlb.com/bluejays/ballpark m Union.

Scotiabank Arena

CONCERTS | Most arena shows are held here rather than at the larger Rogers Centre due to superior acoustics. Past performances at the nearly 20,000-capacity arena have included Beyoncé, Rod Stewart, American Idol Live!, and Nine Inch Nails. E 40 Bay St., at Gardiner Expressway, Harbourfront P 416/815–5500 w www.scotiabankarena.com m Union.

a Activities

BIKING

Martin Goodman Trail

BICYCLING | The Martin Goodman Trail is a part of a larger Waterfront Trail route that spans over 3,000 km (1,850 miles) across Southern Ontario. You can walk (or cycle) the entire length of the city or just stick to the Harbourfront neighborhood, where you’ll have nice views of the Toronto Islands and airplanes flying into Billy Bishop Toronto City Airport to your south and the city skyline to your north. Bike Share Toronto offers a convenient way to bike the trail (or the city) with 5,000 bicycles parked at various locations across the city. You can buy a day pass or get a discounted rate for longer periods. E Harbourfront w waterfronttrail.org/places/communities/toronto.

b Shopping

Shopping in the Harbourfront area is somewhat limited, but the Harbourfront Centre complex can be a good place to find interesting items.

SPECIALTY GIFTS

Harbourfront Centre Shop

CRAFTS | You’ll find plenty of locally made crafts and clever design objects here, including textiles, jewelry, ceramics, wood carvings, and glass pieces blown in Harbourfront Centre’s own studios. The shop also carries quirky design items from outside Canada, too, including vases by Finnish designer Alvar Aalto and gadgets for the kitchen or office from around the world. E Harbourfront Centre, 235 Queens Quay W, Harbourfront P 416/973–4993 w www.harbourfrontcentre.com m Union.

Entertainment District

This downtown district’s biggest draw is its collection of theaters. The Royal Alexandra, built in 1907, has played host to major touring musicals. Down the street is sister theater the Princess of Wales, a modern glass-walled space. Across the street is Roy Thomson Hall, home to the Toronto Symphony Orchestra. If film’s more your speed, check out what’s screening at the TIFF Bell Lightbox, which serves as the main hub for the Toronto International Film Festival in September but spotlights both classics and indie flicks year-round.

s Sights

TIFF Bell Lightbox

ARTS VENUE | A five-story architectural masterpiece in the city’s center, this glass-paneled building houses the year-round headquarters of the internationally acclaimed, wildly popular Toronto International Film Festival, which takes place in September. Throughout the year visitors can attend film-related lectures, watch screenings, and enjoy smaller film festivals, including the TIFF Next Wave Film Festival, a film festival with free movies for anyone under 25 that takes place in February. A stellar educational program includes summer camps and ongoing workshops—on how to produce a stop-motion movie, for example. The TIFF Cinematheque, open to the public, plays world cinema classics and contemporary art house films all year. E Reitman Square, 350 King St. W, at John St., Entertainment District P 416/599–8433, 888/599–8433 w www.tiff.net m St. Andrew station.

r Restaurants

The Entertainment District tends to be pretty laid-back during the day, but it comes to life at night and on weekends when throngs of well-dressed people head to the theater and out for dinner or drinks.

dingbat Beast

$$ | INTERNATIONAL | In a quiet dining room tucked into the first floor of a house just off King West, this carnivore’s mecca serves inventive dishes such as succulent pork hocks with kimchi and roasted peanuts or duck breast with sheep’s milk feta cheese. Pescatarians are well-served, too, with mains like grilled squid tostadas and smoked trout. Brunch means the restaurant’s signature beastwich: fried chicken, pork sausage gravy, egg, and cheese on a biscuit. Known for: cozy interior; menu celebrates local producers and farmers; innovative brunch options. D Average main: C$14 E 96 Tecumseth St., King West P 647/352–6000 w www.thebeastrestaurant.com C Closed Mon. and Tues. No lunch Wed.–Fri. No dinner Sun. m St. Andrew.

dingbat Buca

$$$ | ITALIAN | With its refreshing roster of Italian classics, stylish Buca was a pioneer on this stretch of King Street, and its influence continues today. Tucked into an alley just off the main drag, the repurposed boiler room has exposed brick walls, metal columns, and wooden tables that reflect the philosophy behind the menu. Start with a selection of cheeses and cured meats and perhaps an order of nodini, warm bread knots seasoned with rosemary and sea salt. Known for: consistently voted one of the best Italian restaurants in Toronto; wines are meticulously chosen from Italian vinters; trendy decor. D Average main: C$28 E 604 King St. W, Entertainment District P 416/865–1600 w www.buca.ca C No lunch m Osgoode.

Burrito Boyz

$ | MEXICAN | One of the best places to stuff yourself silly, Burrito Boyz answers the call for rice-filled tortillas stuffed with succulent halibut or hearty steak. And vegetarians also have options, like soy or sweet potato. The casual eatery is always busy, but it’s the most alive in the wee hours of the morning with the postclubbing crowd looking to refuel and sleep soundly on a full stomach. Known for: perfect late-night destination; inexpensive eatery; 17 toppings. D Average main: C$8 E 224 Adelaide St. W, Entertainment District P 647/439–4065 w www.burritoboyz.ca m St. Andrew.

dingbat Edulis

$$$$ | EUROPEAN | European bistro meets local forager is the theme at Edulis, where the five- and seven-course tasting menus are devoted to classic rustic dishes. Rough-hewn wood walls and burlap breadbaskets evoke a farmhouse feel, and the soft lighting adds to the intimate atmosphere. Known for: affordable lunchtime specials on weekends; standout seafood dishes; truffle menu. D Average main: C$75 E 169 Niagara St., King West P 416/703–4222 w www.edulisrestaurant.com C Closed Mon. and Tues. No lunch Wed.–Sat. m St. Andrew.

Evviva

$ | CANADIAN | Don’t let the opulent interior at this busy breakfast spot fool you: the meals here are affordable (and yummy). It’s one of the closest brunch restaurants to the Rogers Centre, so a good place to grab a cup of coffee and some pancakes before an afternoon Jays game. Known for: velvet chairs and grand chandeliers; small but cozy side patio; extensive brunch menu. D Average main: C$12 E 25 Lower Simcoe St., Entertainment District P 416/351–4040 w evviva.ca C No dinner m Union Station.

The Fifth Grill

$$$ | FRENCH | Enter through the Fifth Social Club, a main-floor dance club, and take a freight elevator to this semiprivate dining club and loft space with just the right balance of formality and flirtation. The menu is a French-inspired chef’s tasting menu that changes seasonally. In winter, you can relax on a sofa in front of the huge fireplace; in summer, there’s a gazebo terrace for dining. Known for: luxurious dining rooms; romantic atmosphere; intimate rooftop setting. D Average main: C$30 E 225 Richmond St. W, Entertainment District P 416/979–3005 w fifthrestaurant.thefifth.com C Closed Sun.–Wed. No lunch m Osgoode.

Fresh on Spadina

$$ | VEGETARIAN | FAMILY | This delicious vegan restaurant will make even the most die-hard meat eaters happy. The menu is lengthy and full of everything from tacos and rice bowls to flatbreads and burgers. Known for: tasty homemade sodas and smoothies; casual atmosphere; young, lively crowd. D Average main: C$17 E 147 Spadina Ave., Entertainment District P 416/599–4442 w freshplantpowered.com m St. Andrew or Osgoode.

dingbat Khao San Road

$$ | THAI | Named for a street in Bangkok bursting with nightlife and excellent street eats, Khao San Road lives up to its moniker. The garlic tofu with a sweet-and-sour tamarind dip might just be the vegetarian equivalent of chicken nuggets. For heartier dishes, try for the khao soi, a dish of egg noodles in a rich coconut milk sauce, or try the warming massaman, a tamarind-infused curry with peanuts, potatoes, and deep-fried shallots. Known for: ingredients sourced directly from Thailand; busy, vibrant atmosphere; all of the noodle dishes are standouts. D Average main: C$14 E 11 Charlotte St., Entertainment District P 647/352–5773 w www.khaosanroad.ca C No lunch Sun. m St. Andrew.

Lee

$$$ | ASIAN | Everyone looks beautiful here, on the red velvet barstools or surrounded by abacus-like copper screens hung around the dining room. Famed Toronto chef Susur Lee’s creations mix Asian and European sensibilities and small, perfect dishes like the Peking and char siu duck with steamed pancake and foie gras tickle all the senses. Known for: great dishes from China and Hong Kong; the crowd couldn’t be more chic; addictive sweet-and-sour ribs. D Average main: C$30 E 601 King St. W, Entertainment District P 416/504–7867 w www.susur.com/lee C No lunch m St. Andrew.

dingbat Luma

$$$ | CANADIAN | Duck out of a double-feature at the TIFF Bell Lightbox to grab a meal at Luma. Within the bustling glass-paneled film festival and film education venue, the restaurant is a mini oasis on the second floor. Even if you’re not going to a film, it’s a great restaurant, complete with a patio overlooking the lively Entertainment District and the CN Tower. Start with steak with truffle-parm fries and finish things off with a lemon tart topped with sour cream ice cream. Known for: great spot for people-watching; globally inspired menu; fresh seafood dishes. D Average main: C$30 E 330 King St. W, Entertainment District P 647/288–4715 w www.lumarestaurant.com C No lunch Sat. Closed Sun. m St. Andrew.

Toronto’s Poutine r

The Québécois classic, traditionally made from french fries, cheese curds, and gravy, tends to get dressed up in Toronto. Modern takes might include pulled pork and other meats, as well as different sauces and ethnic spices. Poutini’s House of Poutine (w www.poutini.com) and Smoke’s Poutinerie (w www.smokespoutinerie.com) are restaurants dedicated to it.

Pizzeria Libretto

$$ | ITALIAN | If you love Italian cuisine, this Toronto institution serves popular Neapolitan pizzas and a selection of pastas to discerning locals. It caters to all dietary restrictions, including gluten-free, dairy-free, nut free, vegetarian, and vegan. The King Street location is a go-to date spot, too. Known for: lunchtime specials; family-style menu options; outstanding negroni selection. D Average main: C$18 E 545 King St. W, Entertainment District P 647/352–1200 w www.pizzerialibretto.com m 504 streetcar.

Rodney’s Oyster House

$$$ | SEAFOOD | A den of oceanic delicacies, this playful basement raw bar is frequented by solo diners and showbiz types. Among the options are soft-shell steamer clams, a variety of smoked fish, and “Oyster Slapjack Chowder,” plus a rotating list of more than 20 varieties of oysters (including perfect Malpeques from owner Rodney Clark’s own oyster beds on Prince Edward Island). A zap of Rodney’s in-house line of condiments or a splash of vodka and freshly grated horseradish are eye-openers. Known for: impressive wine list; maritime hospitality; fun, vibrant vibe. D Average main: C$28 E 469 King St. W, Entertainment District P 416/363–8105 w www.rodneysoysterhouse.com C Closed Sun. m St. Andrew.

TOCA

$$$$ | CANADIAN | The swanky Ritz-Carlton dining experience comes to Toronto in the form of TOCA, where the menu of elevated Italian food takes advantage of local ingredients. To really up the ante you can reserve seats at the chef’s table, at a private dining nook in the kitchen. Known for: there is a 30-minute “express” lunch option on weekdays for business diners; the Sunday Market Brunch; the cheese cave. D Average main: C$44 E 181 Wellington St. W, Entertainment District P 416/572–8008 w www.tocarestaurant.ca m St. Andrew.

Victor

$$$ | CANADIAN | Just off King Street in the Hôtel Le Germain, Victor presents a seafood-forward menu, in a swanky atmosphere with plate-glass walls, wood floors, and lively yellow banquettes. Carnivores can opt for hearty dishes like short-rib strozzapreti pasta, panko-crusted veal, or brick chicken with a comforting side of mac and cheese. Known for: great spot for a pretheater dinner or romantic date night; quiet location, unlike other busy spots in this neighborhood; carefully curated wine, beer and cocktail list. D Average main: C$25 E Hôtel Le Germain Toronto, 30 Mercer St., Entertainment District P 416/883–3431 w www.victorrestaurant.com C No lunch m St. Andrew.

Wilbur Mexicana

$ | MEXICAN | This fun, lively counterservice joint serves up Southern California–style Mexican street food like burritos and tacos. It’s more than the average fast-food joint, though, and patrons like to linger with friends over beers. Known for: the hot sauce bar; great value; outstanding guacamole. D Average main: C$10 E 552 King St. W, Entertainment District P 416/792–1878 w wilburmexicana.com m 504 streetcar, or St. Andrew and a 15-minute walk.

WVRST

$ | GERMAN | You don’t need to wait around until Oktoberfest to drink great German beer and indulge in delicious bratwurst; just walk into WVRST, a modern beer hall on King West. Choose amid the selection of sausages, from the traditional pork to vegetarian, or get a little wild with selections such as pheasant, duck, or bison. Known for: dozens of craft beers and ciders on tap; the double-fried duck fat fries are outstanding; German beer-hall vibe. D Average main: C$10 E 609 King St. W, King West P 416/703–7775 w www.wvrst.com m St. Andrew.

h Hotels

Hilton Garden Inn Downtown

$$$ | HOTEL | Like the downtown entertainment hub that surrounds it, this hotel pulses with activity. Pros: location in the heart of downtown; excellent service; lots of amenities. Cons: some rooms can get noisy due to nearby nightclub; pool and gym on the small side; unmemorable decor. D Rooms from: C$329 E 92 Peter St., Entertainment District P 416/593–9200 w hiltongardeninn.hilton.com a 224 rooms X No meals m Osgoode, St. Andrew.

Hilton Toronto

$$$ | HOTEL | If you want to be close to the Entertainment and Financial districts, this hotel offers one of the area’s best locations, and its lobby restaurant, Tundra, serves stellar Canadian cuisine. Pros: across the street from the Four Seasons Centre for the Performing Arts; popular on-site steak house; connected to PATH. Cons: rooms can be small; service lags at times; Wi-Fi not free for everyone. D Rooms from: C$289 E 145 Richmond St. W, at University Ave., Entertainment District P 416/869–3456, 800/267–2281 w www.hilton.com a 600 rooms X No meals m Osgoode.

Local Chains Worth a Taste r

For those times when all you want is a quick bite, consider these local chains where you’re assured of fresh, tasty food and good value.

Burger’s Priest: The junk-food faithful flock to this local chain for old-school burgers, fries, and shakes. Their not-so-secret secret menu (find it on their website) features awe-inspiring items like the Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse: a double cheeseburger with two veggie patties, all stacked between two grilled-cheese sandwiches. w www.theburgerspriest.com.

Freshii: This is a healthier choice where baseball-capped salad artists get through the lunch rush like a championship team. The interior is all steely white and blond wood, and designer greens and custom-made sandwiches clearly appeal to the masses. The Cobb is a standout. w www.freshii.com.

Harvey’s: Harvey’s says it makes a hamburger a beautiful thing, and we agree—whether it’s a beef, chicken, or veggie burger. You get to choose your toppings, which is a boon for picky kids. The fries are a hit, too. w www.harveys.ca.

Milestones: Duck into the cool comfort of these happening spots for crispy breaded shrimp or spinach and artichoke dip. The steak and the prime rib are among the kitchen’s best options. w www.milestonesrestaurants.com.

Second Cup: You’ll find coffee plain and fancy, as well as flavored hot chocolates, a variety of teas, Italian soft drinks, and nibbles that include muffins, bagels, and raspberry–white chocolate scones. w www.secondcup.com.

Spring Rolls: Appealing soups and spiced salads, savory noodle dishes, and spring rolls all satiate lunchtime hunger pangs here. w www.springrolls.ca.

Swiss Chalet Rotisserie and Grill: This Canadian institution is well-known for its rotisserie chicken and barbecued ribs, in portions that suit every family member. dingbat TIP → Ask for extra sauce for your french fries. w www.swisschalet.ca.

Tim Horton’s: Most locations never close, and coffee is made fresh every 20 minutes. Check out the variety of fresh doughnuts, muffins, bagels, and soup-and-sandwich combos. The Canadian Maple doughnut is an obvious front-runner. w www.timhortons.com.

dingbat Hôtel Le Germain Toronto

$$$$ | HOTEL | The retro, redbrick exterior of this chic hotel—conveniently located near the TIFF Bell Lightbox, site of the Toronto International Film Festival—blends seamlessly with the historic architecture of the surrounding theater district. Pros: complimentary continental breakfast; attentive staff goes above and beyond; outdoor terrace on 11th floor. Cons: popular hotel fills up fast; neighborhood can get noisy on weekends; some rooms have views of alleys. D Rooms from: C$375 E 30 Mercer St., at John St., Entertainment District P 416/345–9500, 866/345–9501 w www.germaintoronto.com a 122 rooms X Free breakfast m St. Andrew.

Hyatt Regency Toronto

$$$ | HOTEL | Request views of the CN Tower at this luxury hotel smack in the middle of the pulsating Entertainment District. Pros: closest large hotel to King Street West theaters; dozens of excellent restaurants and cinemas nearby; outdoor swimming pool and 24-hour fitness center. Cons: rooms can be small; guest rooms on lower floors facing King Street may be noisy; hotel could use a renovation. D Rooms from: C$269 E 370 King St. W, Entertainment District P 416/343–1234, 800/633–7313 in U.S. w www.hyatt.com a 426 rooms X No meals m St. Andrew.

InterContinental Toronto Centre

$$$ | HOTEL | Attached to the Metro Toronto Convention Centre, this large but unassuming hotel is a good bet for visiting business executives, and vacationers can often find deals on weekends. Pros: not as stuffy as your usual business hotel; bright and airy lobby restaurant; near theaters and dining. Cons: no shopping nearby; expensive parking; busy during conferences. D Rooms from: C$280 E 225 Front St. W, west of University Ave., Entertainment District P 416/597–1400, 877/660–8550 w www.torontocentre.intercontinental.com a 576 rooms X No meals m Union.

dingbat Residence Inn Toronto Downtown

$$$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | A big hit with families and extended-stay visitors to the city, the modern suites at the Residence Inn Toronto Downtown come with full kitchens, spacious living and dining rooms, and comfortable bedrooms. Pros: close to Toronto’s major attractions; a smart choice for families; pool, gym, and other amenities. Cons: breakfast buffet gets extremely crowded during peak season; can get very crowded on game days; valet parking only. D Rooms from: C$359 E 255 Wellington St. W, at Windsor St., Entertainment District P 416/581–1800 w www.residenceinn.marriott.com a 256 suites X Free breakfast m Union.

dingbat Shangri-La Toronto

$$$$ | HOTEL | The Shangri-La Toronto combines the attention to service for which the Shangri-La brand is known while putting an art-focused twist on its traditional East-meets-West aesthetic. Pros: stellar ambience; noted art collection; luxurious amenities. Cons: pricey rates; standard rooms are small; service can be inconsistent. D Rooms from: C$455 E 188 University Ave., Entertainment District P 647/788–8888 w www.shangri-la.com/toronto/shangrila a 202 rooms X No meals m Osgoode, St. Andrew.

Sheraton Centre

$$$ | HOTEL | Views from this hotel in the city center are marvelous—to the south are the CN Tower and the Rogers Centre; to the north, both new and old city halls. Pros: underground access to PATH network; swimming pool is open late; walk to Four Seasons Centre. Cons: expensive parking and online access; hotel is overwhelmingly large; not all rooms have complimentary breakfast. D Rooms from: C$309 E 123 Queen St. W, at Bay St., Entertainment District P 416/361–1000, 866/716–8101 w www.sheratontoronto.com a 1377 rooms X No meals m Osgoode.

SoHo Metropolitan Hotel

$$$$ | HOTEL | Saturated in pampering detail, the SoHo Met conjures luxury with Frette linens, down duvets, walk-in closets, marble bathrooms with heated floors, and Molton Brown bath products. Pros: high-tech touches like electronic do-not-disturb signs; stylish but not showy; spa is excellent. Cons: lap pool only 3-feet deep; construction noise; can be pricey. D Rooms from: C$435 E 318 Wellington St. W, east of Spadina Ave., Entertainment District P 416/599–8800, 866/764–6638 w www.soho.metropolitan.com a 91 rooms X No meals m St. Andrew.

dingbat Toronto Marriott City Centre

$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | This hotel completely integrated into the Rogers Centre, the sports and entertainment dome that serves as the home of the Toronto Blue Jays, and 70 of the choicest rooms overlook the stadium itself. Pros: best place to watch Blue Jays baseball games; reasonable parking fee; good restaurant. Cons: little natural light in guest rooms overlooking field; the best rooms book up fast on game days; pick somewhere else if you’re not a sports fan. D Rooms from: C$229 E 1 Blue Jays Way, at Front St. W, Entertainment District P 416/341–7100, 800/237–1512 w www.marriott.com/yyzcc a 346 rooms X No meals m Union.

n Nightlife

Traditionally this was Toronto’s center for dance clubs cranking out house music. A few of the more popular clubs are still going strong (especially along Richmond Street), but the area is becoming less ostentatious as condos are erected and professionals in their thirties and forties move in. It’s also home to three of the big Broadway-style theaters and tourist-oriented preshow restaurants with bars. The King West neighborhood has experienced a surge of swanky lounges, bars, and restaurants since the Toronto International Film Festival moved its headquarters to the area from Yorkville.

BARS

Lobby Lounge at the Shangri-La Hotel

BARS/PUBS | The Shangri-La Hotel’s spacious Lobby Lounge serves up trendy cocktails, delicious bar bites, and live music. E Shangri-La Hotel, 188 University Ave., Entertainment District P 647/788–8888 w www.shangri-la.com m Osgoode.

Steam Whistle Brewery

BREWPUBS/BEER GARDENS | The Steam Whistle Brewery makes an authentically crafted pilsner, and offers daily tours (C$12) of its historic premises. There’s a tasting room with a full food menu, and the brewery hosts special events, like Oktoberfest and the twice-a-year (winter and summer) Roundhouse Craft Beer Festival. It’s a great place to stop before or after a Blue Jays game. E The Roundhouse, 255 Bremner Blvd., Entertainment District P 416/362–2337 w www.steamwhistle.ca m Union.

COMEDY CLUBS

dingbat The Second City

COMEDY CLUBS | Since it opened in 1973, Toronto’s Second City—the younger sibling of the Second City in Chicago—has been showcasing some of the best comedy in Canada. Regular features include sketch comedy, improv, and revues. Seating is cabaret-style with table service and is assigned on a first-come, first-served basis. dingbat TIP → Arrive 30 minutes prior to showtime. Weekend shows tend to sell out. Tickets usually run between C$14 and C$35. Note that the Second City is set to relocate at the end of 2020. E 51 Mercer St., 1 block south of King, Entertainment District P 416/343–0011 w www.secondcity.com m St. Andrew.

Yuk Yuk’s

COMEDY CLUBS | Part of a Canadian comedy franchise, this venue headlines stand-up comedians on the rise (Jim Carrey and Russell Peters performed here on their way up), with covers usually between C$11 and C$25. Admission is C$5 on Tuesday for amateur night. The small space is often packed; getting cozy with your neighbors and sitting within spitting distance of the comedians is part of the appeal. Booking a dinner-and-show package guarantees better seats. E 224 Richmond St. W, 1½ blocks west of University Ave., Entertainment District P 416/967–6431 w www.yukyuks.com m Osgoode.

p Performing Arts

CLASSICAL MUSIC

dingbat Toronto Symphony Orchestra

MUSIC | Since 1922 this orchestra has achieved world acclaim with music directors such as Sir Ernest MacMillan, Seiji Ozawa, and Sir Andrew Davis. Canadian-born Peter Oundjian reinvigorated the ensemble and significantly strengthened its presence in the world when he was musical director from 2004 until 2018. Guest performers have included pianist Lang Lang, violinist Itzhak Perlman, and singer-songwriter Rufus Wainwright. Each season the orchestra screens a classic film, such as Star Wars or Singin’ in the Rain, and plays the score as it runs. The TSO also presents about three concerts weekly at Roy Thomson Hall from September through June. E Roy Thomson Hall, 60 Simcoe St., Entertainment District P 416/593–1285 TSO information and tickets, 416/593–4828 Roy Thomson Hall ticket line w www.tso.ca m St. Andrew.

Major Venues

dingbat Roy Thomson Hall

CONCERTS | Toronto’s premier concert hall, home of the Toronto Symphony Orchestra (TSO), also hosts visiting orchestras, popular entertainers, and Toronto International Film Festival red-carpet screenings. The 2,630-seat auditorium opened in 1982 and is named after Roy Thomson, who was born in Toronto and founded the publishing empire Thomson Corporation (now Thomson Reuters). E 60 Simcoe St., at King St., Entertainment District P 416/872–4255 tickets, 416/593–4822 tours w www.roythomson.com m St. Andrew.

THEATERS

Factory Theatre

THEATER | This is the country’s largest producer of exclusively Canadian plays. Many of the company’s shows are world premieres that have gone on to tour Canada and win prestigious awards. E 125 Bathurst St., at Adelaide St., Entertainment District P 416/504–9971 w www.factorytheatre.ca.

Princess of Wales

THEATER | State-of-the-art facilities and wonderful murals by American artist Frank Stella grace this 2,000-seat theater, built by father-and-son producer team Ed and David Mirvish in 1993 to accommodate the technically demanding musical Miss Saigon. Big-budget musicals like Lion King and The Book of Mormon and plays such as War Horse are showcased. E 300 King St. W, at John St., Entertainment District P 416/872–1212 tickets, 800/461–3333 tickets w www.mirvish.com m St. Andrew.

Royal Alexandra

THEATER | The most historic of the Mirvish theaters, the “Royal Alex” has been the place to be seen in Toronto since 1907 and is the oldest continuously operating legitimate theater in North America. The restored and reconfigured theater features 1,244 plush red seats, gold plasterwork, and baroque swirls and flourishes that make theatergoing a refined experience. Charleston Heston made his debut here and Lawrence Olivier, Edith Piaf, Mary Pickford, Alan Bates, and John Gielgud have also graced the stage. Programs are a mix of blockbuster musicals and dramatic productions, some touring before or after Broadway appearances. E 260 King St. W, Entertainment District P 416/872–1212 tickets, 800/461–3333 tickets w www.mirvish.com m St. Andrew.

b Shopping

While there aren’t a ton of shops between the theaters and restaurants of King Street West between Bay and Spadina, those that are here are some of the city’s best.

ANTIQUES

dingbat Toronto Antiques on King

ANTIQUES/COLLECTIBLES | The 6,000 square feet of this shop provides ample opportunity for browsing pre- or postshow (the Princess of Wales Theatre is next door) among the cabinets, shelves, and bins overflowing with porcelain, silver tea sets, Majolica pottery, Lalique vases, collectibles, and antique maps. It’s also Toronto’s leading purveyor of vintage and estate jewelry, making it a popular stop for those seeking out engagement rings. E 284 King St. W (2nd fl.), at John St., Entertainment District P 416/260–9057 w www.cynthiafindlay.com C Closed Mon. m St. Andrew.

OUTDOOR EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING

dingbat Mountain Equipment Co-op

SPORTING GOODS | MEC (rhymes with “check”), the much-beloved Toronto spot for anyone remotely interested in camping, sells wares for minor and major expeditions. It’s also a go-to spot for cycling gear. The vast assortment of backpacks means you can shop here for anything from a schoolbag to something that will accompany you on travels around the world. For C$5, you get lifetime membership to the co-op. E 300 Queen St. W, Entertainment District P 416/340–2667 w www.mec.ca.

SPAS

Hammam Spa

SPA/BEAUTY | At Hammam Spa devoted Entertainment District clients come to soak up eucalyptus-scented steam in a 500-square-foot marble-tile Turkish bath following a massage or detoxifying algae wrap. E 602 King St. W, at Portland, Entertainment District P 416/366–4772 w www.hammamspa.ca m Spadina or St. Andrew.

SPECIALTY GIFTS

dingbat TIFF Shop

GIFTS/SOUVENIRS | This sleek little gift shop at the TIFF Bell Lightbox, the cinematic HQ of the Toronto International Film Festival, stocks an ever-changing selection of cinematic paraphernalia linked to TIFF’s current programming. The exhaustive inventory of film books includes many difficult-to-find titles, biographies of just about every director you can think of, and studies of even the most obscure film movements. There are also unusual gift items and cute items for children. E TIFF Bell Lightbox, 350 King St. W, at John St., Entertainment District P 416/934–7959 w shop.tiff.net m St. Andrew.

Financial District

Toronto’s Financial District has a wonderful architectural variety of skyscrapers. Most of the towers have bank branches, restaurants, and retail outlets on their ground floors and are connected to the PATH, an underground city of shops and tunnels. Unsurprisingly, Toronto’s main office district is home to a lot of top-shelf restaurants ready to give those expense accounts a hearty workout.

s Sights

Design Exchange

MUSEUM | The Design Exchange (or DX as it’s now commonly known) is a museum of Canadian culture and design, with fun exhibits that cover furniture, home decor, and electronics. The building itself is a delightful example of streamlined modern design (a later and more austere version of art deco), clad in polished pink granite and smooth buff limestone, with stainless-steel doors. Between 1937 and 1983, the DX was home to the Toronto Stock Exchange. Don’t miss the witty stone frieze carved above the doors—a banker in top hat marching behind a laborer and sneaking his hand into the worker’s pocket. Only in Canada, where socialism has always been a strong force, would you find such a political statement on the side of a stock exchange. E 234 Bay St., at King St., Financial District P 416/363–6121 w www.dx.org C Closed weekends m King, St. Andrew.

dingbat Hockey Hall of Fame

MUSEUM | FAMILY | Even if you’re not a hockey fan, it’s worth a trip here to see this shrine to Canada’s favorite sport. Exhibits include the original 1893 Stanley Cup, as well as displays of goalie masks, skate and stick collections, players’ jerseys, video displays of big games, and a replica of the Montréal Canadiens’ locker room. Grab a stick and test your speed and accuracy in the “Shoot Out” virtual experience, or strap on a goalie mask and field shots from big-name players with the “Shut Out” computer simulation. It’s also telling that this museum is housed in such a grand building, worthy of any fine art collection. A former Bank of Montréal branch designed by architects Darling & Curry in 1885, the building is covered with beautiful ornamental details. Note the richly carved Ohio stone and the Hermès figure supporting the chimney near the back. At the corner of Front and Yonge streets, the impressive 17-foot bronze statue entitled “Our Game” is a good photo-op. dingbat TIP → Entrance is through Brookfield Place on the lower level. E Brookfield Place, 30 Yonge St., at Front St., Financial District P 416/360–7765 w www.hhof.com A C$20 m Union.

PATH

PEDESTRIAN MALL | Though tunnels under the city date back to 1900, this subterranean universe expanded in the mid-1970s partly to replace the retail services in small buildings that were demolished to make way for the latest skyscrapers and partly to protect office workers from the harsh winter weather. As each major building went up, its developers agreed to build and connect their underground shopping areas with others and with the subway system. You can walk from beneath Union Station to the Fairmont Royal York hotel, the Toronto-Dominion Centre, First Canadian Place, the Sheraton Centre, The Bay and Eaton Centre, and City Hall without ever seeing the light of day, encountering everything from art exhibitions to buskers (the best are the winners of citywide auditions, who are licensed to perform throughout the subway system) and walkways, fountains, and trees. There are underground passageways in other parts of the city that you can reach by subway—one beneath Bloor Street and another under College Street (both run from Yonge to Bay Street)—but this is the city’s most extended subterranean network. E Financial District m Queen’s Park, St. Andrew, Osgoode, St. Andrew, Union, King, Queen, Dundas.

Toronto-Dominion Centre

BUILDING | Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, a virtuoso of modern architecture, designed a significant portion of this six-building office complex, though he died before its completion in 1992. As with his acclaimed Seagram Building in New York, Mies stripped the TD Centre’s buildings to their skin and bones of bronze-color glass and black-metal I-beams. The tallest building, the Toronto Dominion Bank Tower, is 56 stories high. The only architectural decoration consists of geometric repetition. In summer, the plazas and grass are full of office workers eating lunch. Inside the low-rise square banking pavilion at King and Bay streets is a virtually intact Mies interior. E 66 Wellington St. W., Financial District m St. Andrew.

Union Station

TRANSPORTATION SITE (AIRPORT/BUS/FERRY/TRAIN) | Historian Pierre Berton wrote that the planning of Union Station recalled “the love lavished on medieval churches.” Indeed, this train depot can be regarded as a cathedral built to serve the god of steam. Designed in 1907 and opened by the Prince of Wales in 1927, it has a 40-foot-high coffered Guastavino tile ceiling and 22 pillars weighing 70 tons apiece. The floors are Tennessee marble laid in a herringbone pattern (the same that’s in Grand Central Terminal in New York City). The main hall, with its lengthy concourse and light flooding in from arched windows at each end, was designed to evoke the majesty of the country that spread out by rail from this spot. The names of the towns and cities across Canada that were served by the country’s two railway lines, Grand Trunk (incorporated into today’s Canadian National) and Canadian Pacific, are inscribed on a frieze along the inside of the hall. As train travel declined, the building came very near to being demolished in the 1970s, but public opposition eventually proved strong enough to save it, and Union Station, a National Historic site, is now a vital transport hub. Commuter, subway, and long-distance trains stop here. E 65 Front St. W, between Bay and York Sts., Financial District m Union.

r Restaurants

As one of the city’s major business hubs, with plenty of hungry people at all times of the day, the Financial District has no shortage of places to eat. Venues cater to all the worker bees, from the assistant out on an espresso run to the executives with expense accounts.

Beer Bistro

$$ | EUROPEAN | A culinary tribute to beer, the creative menu here incorporates its star ingredient in every dish, but in subtle and clever ways without causing a malted-flavor overload. Start the hoppy journey with a taster flight of three draft beers, and follow that with perhaps a beer-bread pizza made with oatmeal stout or a bowl of mussels in a beer-based broth. Known for: cozy interior with an open kitchen; great patio in summer; there are even (delicious) beer-focused desserts. D Average main: C$19 E 18 King St. E, Financial District P 416/861–9872 w www.beerbistro.com m King.

Bymark

$$$$ | CANADIAN | Top Chef Canada judge Mark McEwan has created a refined modern menu showcasing sophisticated seafood dishes, like whole roasted orata, and simply prepared meats, like the signature 8-ounce burger with molten Brie de Meaux, grilled porcini mushrooms, and shaved truffles. Known for: 5,000-bottle wine cellar; opulent interior; swank upstairs bar. D Average main: C$40 E 66 Wellington St. W, Concourse Level, Financial District P 416/777–1144 w www.mcewangroup.ca/bymark C Closed Sun. No lunch Sat. m St. Andrew.

Cactus Club Cafe

$$$ | STEAKHOUSE | The Toronto flagship of a Vancouver-based casual fine dining chain, this massive, modern Financial District spot is one of the business district’s trendiest dining destinations. Stellar dishes include butternut ravioli topped with sage, prawns, and truffle butter, and the “millionaire’s cut”—a filet mignon with mashed potatoes and roasted asparagus. Known for: year-round patio; hip interior; fun appetizers to share. D Average main: C$22 E First Canadian Pl., 77 Adelaide St. W, Financial District P 647/748–2025 w www.cactusclubcafe.com m King.

dingbat Canoe

$$$$ | CANADIAN | Huge dining-room windows frame breathtaking views of the Toronto Islands and the lake at this restaurant, on the 54th floor of the Toronto Dominion Bank Tower. Dishes like an appetizer of venison tartare with bannock bread and pink peppercorns and entrées like gin-cured duck with mushrooms and foie gras dumplings nod to both tradition and trend. Known for: classic desserts like a raisin butter tart round out exceptional meal; innovative tasting menus; food inspired by Canada. D Average main: C$44 E Toronto-Dominion Centre, 66 Wellington St. W, 54th fl., Financial District P 416/364–0054 w www.canoerestaurant.com C Closed weekends m King.

Down Town s

According to Guinness World Records, the PATH is the biggest underground shopping complex in the world. Maps to guide you through the labyrinth are available in many downtown news and convenience stores.

The Chase

$$$$ | SEAFOOD | On the fifth floor of the historic Dineen Building, overlooking the Financial District, the Chase’s marvelous lighting fixtures and floor-to-ceiling windows are a glamorous setting for the fish-and-oyster focused menu. Dishes like a whole fish or a whole grilled octopus (also available as half) are meant for sharing, as are opulent seafood platters layered with shrimp, oysters, and king crab. Known for: elegant atmosphere; lovely rooftop patio; raw bar is outstanding. D Average main: C$35 E 10 Temperance St., 5th fl., Financial District P 647/348–7000 w www.thechasetoronto.com C Closed Sun. No lunch Sat. m King.

Drake One Fifty

$$$ | INTERNATIONAL | While the Drake Hotel on Queen Street West has become synonymous with Toronto’s art and nightlife scene, its sister restaurant in the Financial District is more about a cool yet clubby luxury dining experience. The striking space is decked out with pop art–inspired murals and understated retro fixtures, and the kitchen turns out everything from charcuterie to oysters, and from steaks to steak tartare to short-rib burgers and a handful of pizzas. Known for: creative cocktails—try the brown butter maple old-fashioned; swanky vibe; great weekend brunch. D Average main: C$25 E 150 York St., Financial District P 416/363–6150 w www.drakeonefifty.ca m Osgoode.

The Gabardine

$$$ | BRITISH | A cozy and unpretentious dining room sets the scene for gastro-pub classics like Cobb salad, chicken pot pie, and deviled eggs, plus international flourishes like skirt steak topped with piri piri. The rich mac and cheese topped with buttery herbed bread crumbs is great comfort food, as is the house-ground sirloin bacon cheeseburger with Thousand Island dressing. Known for: tin ceilings add a nostalgic vibe; comfort-food classics; laid-back vibe. D Average main: C$22 E 372 Bay St., Financial District P 647/352–3211 w www.thegabardine.ca C Closed weekends m Queen.

Pearl Diver

$$$ | SEAFOOD | A rustic-chic haunt for seafood lovers steps from the Financial District, Pearl Diver specializes in a global array of oysters, all displayed on ice behind the handsome bar. If that’s not enough, their excellent trout and the dry-aged beef burger will make you fall for the Pearl Diver hook, line, and sinker. Known for: laid-back vibe; Tuesday night seafood tower specials; famed 100 oysters for C$100 deal every Thursday. D Average main: C$25 E 100 Adelaide St. E, Financial District P 416/366–7827 w www.pearldiver.to C Closed Mon., no lunch Tues. and Wed. c No credit cards m King.

Reds Wine Tavern

$$$ | AMERICAN | Repurposed wine bottles and wine glasses assembled as giant chandeliers hover above the tables at Reds Wine Tavern, offering a nod to the lengthy list of international wine picks. The menu is global, skipping from seared tuna tostadas with guacamole and daily curries to comfort foods like lobster grilled cheese and a variety of steaks. Known for: everything here is made from scratch; bread baked right on the premises; business lunches and after-work drinks. D Average main: C$22 E 77 Adelaide St. W, Financial District P 416/862–7337 w www.redswinetavern.com C Closed Mon., closed for lunch Tues. and Wed. m King.

Terroni

$$ | ITALIAN | FAMILY | Open shelving lined with Italian provisions decorates this cool pizza joint, but it’s the thin-crust pies, bubbled and blistered to perfection, that keep diners coming back. The menu suits all pizza lovers—from the simple Margherita to extravagant options like the Polentona, with tomato, mozzarella, fontina, speck (smoked prosciutto), and pine nuts. Daily specials can be hit-or-miss, but desserts—like a warm, oozing round of flourless chocolate cake—are universally delicious. Known for: in addition to the pizza, the pastas are quite popular; the secluded back patio is lovely in good weather; cool location inside a former court house. D Average main: C$19 E 57 Adelaide St. E, Financial District P 416/504–1992 w www.terroni.ca C No lunch Sun. m Queen.

h Hotels

Cambridge Suites

$$$ | HOTEL | With just 12 suites per floor, this self-dubbed boutique hotel focuses on service: rooms are cleaned twice daily, and there’s same-day dry cleaning and laundry, a rooftop gym with a view (and a whirlpool), and complimentary Wi-Fi. Pros: central location near many of the top attractions; social hour with discounted drinks; late checkout. Cons: parking is expensive; some dated decor; pets not allowed. D Rooms from: C$297 E 15 Richmond St. E, at Victoria St., Financial District P 416/368–1990, 800/463–1990 w www.cambridgesuitestoronto.com a 229 suites X No meals m Queen.

Executive Hotel Cosmopolitan

$$ | HOTEL | Tucked away on a side street in the heart of Toronto, this uberboutique, all-suite hotel seamlessly blends a modern Eastern aesthetic with apartment-style amenities. Pros: central location; hipness factor; friendly staff. Cons: side streets dark at night; some rooms have so-so views; no on-site parking. D Rooms from: C$234 E 8 Colborne St., at Yonge St., Financial District P 416/350–2000, 888/388–3932 w www.cosmotoronto.com a 95 suites X No meals m King.

Fairmont Royal York

$$$$ | HOTEL | Like a proud grandmother, the Royal York stands serenely on Front Street in downtown Toronto, surrounded by gleaming skyscrapers and the nearby CN Tower. Pros: lots of history; excellent health club (lap pool, whirlpool, saunas, well-appointed gym, and more); steps from Union Station. Cons: rooms can be small; charge for in-room Internet access; expensive parking. D Rooms from: C$499 E 100 Front St. W, at York St., Financial District P 416/368–2511, 866/540–4489 w www.fairmont.com/royalyork a 898 rooms X No meals m Union.

Hotel Victoria

$$$ | HOTEL | A local landmark built in 1909, “the Vic” is Toronto’s second-oldest hotel, with a long-standing reputation for excellent service. Pros: gym privileges at nearby health club; stylishly decorated rooms; lobby restaurant is fantastic. Cons: inconvenient off-site parking; front rooms get street noise; not all rooms get newspapers. D Rooms from: C$259 E 56 Yonge St., at Wellington St., Financial District P 416/363–1666, 800/363–8228 w www.hotelvictoria-toronto.com a 56 rooms X No meals m King.

One King West Hotel & Residence

$$$ | HOTEL | Made up entirely of suites, this 51-story tower is attached to the old Dominion Bank of Canada (circa 1914) in the city’s downtown business and shopping core. Pros: great views from upper floors; central location; excellent service. Cons: not all suites have washer/dryer; parking is valet-only; pricey rates. D Rooms from: C$309 E 1 King St. W, at Yonge St., Financial District P 416/548–8100, 866/470–5464 w www.onekingwest.com a 340 suites X No meals m King.

The Ritz-Carlton, Toronto

$$$$ | HOTEL | This Ritz has a great location—across from Roy Thompson Hall and smack-dab in the center of the Financial District—and a solid elegance, embellished with a Canadian motif of brass maple leaves and local woods. Pros: reliable Ritz service; top-of-the-line amenities; expansive rooms. Cons: five-star prices; expensive valet parking; pricey high tea. D Rooms from: C$469 E 181 Wellington St. W, Financial District P 416/585–2500 w www.ritzcarlton.com/toronto a 319 rooms X No meals m St. Andrew, Union.

n Nightlife

The bars and restaurants in the Financial District tend to be tony affairs, equally suited to schmoozing clients and blowing off steam after a long day at the office. After happy hour, this business- and high-rise-dense part of town quiets down.

BARS

Oliver & Bonacini Cafe Grill

BARS/PUBS | If you want to “see and be seen” in the Financial District head to this vast restaurant and bar, which has a wraparound year-round patio that faces both Front and Yonge streets. The O&B Café Grill, as it’s locally called, has become the destination for Bay Street’s movers and shakers, and the neighborhood’s urban dwellers. Check out the impressive cocktail menu. E 33 Yonge St., Financial District P 647/260–2070 w www.oliverbonacini.com m Union.

b Shopping

Toronto’s Financial District has a vast underground maze of shops underneath its office towers. The tenants of this Underground City are mostly the usual assortment of chain stores, with an occasional surprise. Marked PATH, the walkways (the underground street system) help visitors navigate the subterranean mall, though it can be confusing for novices. The network runs roughly from the Fairmont Royal York hotel near Union Station north to the Atrium at Bay and Dundas.

CLOTHING

Moores Clothing For Men

CLOTHING | This is the place to browse thousands of discounted Canadian-made dress pants, sport coats, and suits, including many famous labels. Sizes run from extra short to extra tall and from regular to oversize; the quality is solid and the service is good. E 100 Yonge St., at King St., Financial District P 416/363–5442 w www.mooresclothing.com m King.

SPORTING GOODS

Running Room

SPORTING GOODS | The knowledgeable staff at this chain can guide you to the perfect pair of running shoes. Running Rooms have spawned a running community, and shops have sprouted up all over the city; group runs are held every Wednesday evening and Sunday morning. E 53 Yonge St., at Wellington, Financial District P 416/867–7575 w www.runningroom.com m King.

HARBOURFRONT AND THE ISLANDS

The Harbourfront area is appealing for waterfront strolls or bike rides, and its myriad recreational and amusement options make it ideal for first-timers getting to know the lay of the land or longtime residents looking to get reacquainted with the city. The nearby Toronto Islands provide a perfect escape from the sometimes stifling summer heat of downtown.

BEST TIME TO GO

If it’s sun and sand you’re looking for, you’ll want to aim for a visit in June, July, or August. The cool breeze coming off Lake Ontario can be the perfect antidote to one of Toronto’s hot and humid summer days, but in the off-season it can make things a little chilly if you aren’t wearing an extra layer.

One of downtown Toronto’s most special experiences isn’t in the downtown core at all, but a short, skyline-filled ferry ride away. The Toronto Islands are a conveniently located getaway just off the shore of Lake Ontario, offering peaceful beaches (including the notorious clothing-optional section of Hanlan’s Point) and beautiful parks.

WAYS TO EXPLORE

BOAT

The best way to enjoy the waterfront is to get right onto Lake Ontario. There are many different boat tours—take your pick from the vendors lining the Harbourfront’s lakeside boardwalk—but most offer the same deal: a pleasant, hour-long jaunt around the harbor for about C$25. Sunset dinner cruises are also offered.

To soak up the sun and skyline views, use the public ferry to head for the Toronto Islands. The best beaches are those on the southeast tip of Ward’s Island, Centre Island Beach, and Hanlan’s Point Beach. This last one is the most secluded, natural beach on the islands, backed by a small dunes area, a portion of which is clothing-optional. Most families with kids head for Centre Island Beach.

BIKE AND STROLL

To get away from busy downtown and stretch your legs, the Toronto Islands are the perfect destination. This car-free open space has paved trails for biking or strolling; miles and miles of green space to explore; and picture-perfect vistas of the surrounding lake and skyline.

Bicyclists, power-walkers, and Sunday strollers all enjoy the Martin Goodman Trail, the Toronto portion of the 450-km (280-mile) Lake Ontario Waterfront Trail. The string of beaches along the eastern waterfront (east of Coxwell Avenue) is connected by a continuous boardwalk that parallels the path. At the western end of the walking and biking trail is Sunnyside Park Beach, a favorite place for a swim in the “tank” (a huge heated pool) or a snack at the small restaurant inside the handsomely restored 1923 Sunnyside Bathing Pavilion.

FESTIVALS AND EVENTS

The Canadian National Exhibition (better known as “the Ex”) takes place the last two weeks of August and Labor Day weekend, attracting more than 1.5 million people each year. It began in 1879 primarily as an agricultural show and today is a collection of midway rides and games, carnival food, free concerts, horticultural and technological exhibits, and parades. It also hosts the Canadian International Air Show

Throughout the year, Harbourfront Centre hosts a dizzying array of festivals, covering cultural celebrations such as Kuumba (February) and the Mexican Day of the Dead (November); foodie-friendly fetes like the Hot & Spicy Festival (August) and Vegetarian Food Fair (September); and literary events such as the International Festival of Authors (October).

NEIGHBORHOOD SNAPSHOT

Harbourfront

Entertainment District

Financial District

HARBOURFRONT AND THE ISLANDS