West Queen West

West Queen West’s major landmarks, the Drake Hotel and the Gladstone Hotel, enjoy much success for their creative, eclectic decor and their happening nightlife. Businesses like these, which revolutionized the once-shabby district and gave it its current ubercool image, helped pave the way for a second wave of émigrés. An eclectic smattering of restaurants and more than 300 art galleries vie for real estate with fair-trade coffee shops and boutiques featuring Canada’s hottest new designers. Trinity Bellwoods Park punctuates the neighborhood at the center and provides a beautiful setting for a picnic or a bench break. The area is served by the 301 and 501 trams, but the Metro does not go out here.

s Sights

Trinity Bellwoods Park

CITY PARK | FAMILY | Bellwoods (as the locals call it) is the top destination for west-enders to kick back on a sunny day. The tree-lined park runs between Dundas West and Queen West, which makes for a scenic stroll if you’re heading between neighborhoods. It’s a great spot for picnicking and people-watching—or dog-watching, if you take a bench next to the dog bowl. It’s especially attractive in mid-May, when the cherry trees bloom pink, or when the leaves turn in the fall. E 790 Queen St. W, West Queen West.

West Queen West, Ossington, and Parkdale

r Restaurants

West Queen West is home to some of the city’s best restaurants in a range of cuisines from classic French to Asian fusion and all manner of other options.

Bacchanal

$$$ | FRENCH | Just off the main West Queen West drag, this modern French spot is swathed in blue velvet and brass, with an atmosphere that feels intimate despite the restaurant’s considerable size. The food is classic French, with a twist and an artistic eye for plating; options range from hors d’ouevres to mains like steak frites and sea bream. Known for: beautifully made cocktails; wallpaper featuring local landmarks; tasty desserts. D Average main: C$27 E 60 Sudbury St., West Queen West P 416/586–1188 w bacchanal.ca C No lunch.

Le Swan

$$ | FRENCH | Once a classic Toronto diner, this intimate spot from local restaurateur Jen Agg pays homage to its greasy-spoon roots but with a French twist. The frequently evolving menu balances steak frites and Nicoise salads with tuna melts, onion rings, and grilled cheeses. Known for: vintage diner setting; excellent cocktails; late-night fondue. D Average main: C$20 E 892 Queen St. W, West Queen West P 416/536–4440 w leswan.ca C No lunch Mon.–Thurs.

Nadège

$ | BAKERY | This hot-pink patisserie is a top destination for Torontonians with a sweet tooth. Inside, long glass cases are filled with petits fours and fanciful pastries, as well as savory options like croissant sandwiches and salads, while the walls are lined with a candy shop’s worth of sweets (all made in-house). Known for: on the corner of Trinity Bellwoods Park; chocolates in cute packaging; rainbow-color macarons. D Average main: C$10 E 780 Queen St. W, West Queen West P 416/203–2009 w nadege-patisserie.com.

Oyster Boy

$$$ | SEAFOOD | Whether you order them baked, fried, or raw, oysters are the thing at this casual neighborhood spot. A chalkboard spells out what’s fresh and available, along with sizing and prices for each, and there is an excellent selection of house-made condiments. Known for: extensive selection of oysters from Prince Edward Island; oyster shucking class on weekends; sustainably sourced seafood. D Average main: C$25 E 872 Queen St. W, West Queen West P 416/534–3432 w oysterboy.ca C No lunch weekdays.

h Hotels

dingbat The Drake Hotel

$$$ | HOTEL | More than just a hotel, the Drake is also a bar, a club, and an art gallery that has been a focal point for the local media for well over a decade. Pros: locally made snacks and drinks in the minibar; stylish rooms packed with quirky touches; design-forward atmosphere. Cons: glass-doored bathrooms offer little privacy; party crowd takes over on weekends; smallish rooms. D Rooms from: C$289 E 1150 Queen St. W, West Queen West P 416/531–5042 w www.thedrake.ca a 19 rooms X No meals.

Gladstone Hotel

$$ | HOTEL | Some boutique hotels pop art on their walls and call it a day, but at this Victorian-era beauty (complete with an antique elevator), the guest rooms are used as a canvas by a rotating cast of local artists. Pros: gallery-like atmosphere; very comfortable beds; on-site art installations. Cons: some noise from nearby trains (earplugs are provided); lacks niceties like room service; building shows signs of wear. D Rooms from: C$249 E 1214 Queen St. W, West Queen West P 416/531–4635 w www.gladstonehotel.com a 37 rooms X No meals.

n Nightlife

BARS

dingbat The Drake Underground

BARS/PUBS | Locals know the Drake as a hub for art, culture, food, and perhaps above all—nightlife, with multiple spaces hosting parties, shows, and events on any given night. The basement is home to the Drake Underground, a venue that hosts live music and DJ nights, while the rooftop Sky Yard patio serves drinks surrounded by eye-popping art installations. The main floor restaurant has seasonally driven lunch, dinner, and brunch. E 1150 Queen St. W, West Queen West P 416/531–5042 w www.thedrakehotel.ca.

dingbat Gladstone Ballroom & Melody Bar

BARS/PUBS | The Gladstone draws an artsy Toronto crowd that appreciates a multitude of creative endeavors like music performances, poetry slams, burlesque shows, and more. The Ballroom is the main event space, with soaring ceilings, exposed brick walls, and a long, dark-wood bar. The Melody Bar serves cocktails until late most nights. There are also art galleries on the second, third, and fourth floors of the hotel. E 1214 Queen St. W, Queen West P 416/531–4635 w www.gladstonehotel.com.

p Performing Arts

THEATERS

The Great Hall

MUSIC | This sweeping Queen Anne Revival–style building, built in 1889, is one of the city’s grandest concert venues, with four event spaces packed over three stories. The biggest is the Main Hall, a cavernous auditorium with a second-floor gallery overlooking the main floor below, though events are also often held in the basement-level Longboat Hall, which was once a gymnasium in the building’s former life as a YMCA. The space hosts everything from touring bands to theater events to craft shows. Stop in to Otto’s Bierhalle, which occupies the ground floor, for craft beer and great German-style snacks. E 1087 Queen St. W, West Queen West P 416/792–1268 w thegreathall.ca.

The Theatre Centre

THEATER | Built in 1909 as a library and funded by industrialist Andrew Carnegie (of Carnegie Hall fame), this heritage property underwent extensive renovations and reopened as a theater space in 2016. There’s a café and bar as well. E 1115 Queen St. W, West Queen West P 416/538–0988 w theatrecentre.org.

b Shopping

West of Bathurst, Queen Street is the place to go for cool shops and slick home goods stores. The cool quotient steps up a notch as the street extends farther west, beyond Trinity Bellwoods Park, with mid-century modern antique shops, cutting-edge galleries, and a flurry of big name designers.

ART GALLERIES

Craft Ontario Shop

CRAFTS | This shop, run by the Ontario Crafts Council, stocks an excellent selection of Canadian crafts, including blown glass, fine woodwork, textiles, jewelry, and pottery—from earthy stoneware to contemporary ceramics. There’s also a gallery featuring work by artists and craftspeople from around Ontario. Upstairs is The Devil’s Workshop, which sells jewelry by local makers and hosts a popular DIY wedding band workshop. E 1106 Queen St. W, West Queen West P 416/921–1721 w www.craftontario.com.

BOOKS

dingbat Type Books

BOOKS/STATIONERY | The selection of carefully selected fiction and nonfiction at Type Books includes many hard-to-find authors, as well as fun cards and gifts. The art and architecture section has pride of place at the front of the shop and the extensive children’s area is in a bright spot up a few steps at the back. E 883 Queen St. W, West Queen West P 416/366–8973 w www.typebooks.ca.

CLOTHING

dingbat Gravitypope

CLOTHING | This Canadian chain, frequented by fashionistas in the know, has an impressive selection that includes Paul Smith, Commme des Garçons, and Marni. The collections include menswear and womenswear, but shoes are the specialty, with designers including Church’s, Camper, Hunter, Rag & Bone, Doc Martens,and many more. E 1010 Queen St. W, West Queen West P 647/748–5155 w www.gravitypope.com.

Horses Atelier

CLOTHING | This homegrown womenswear label counts some of Toronto’s coolest artists, musicians, and actors among its fans. The tiny flagship shop stocks the latest in Horses’ limited-run pieces, all hand-sewn in Toronto. The chic, albeit pricey, modern staples include peasant-sleeve dresses, quirky coveralls, and workwear-inspired jackets. E 198 Walnut Ave., West Queen West P 416/504–9555 w horsesatelier.com C Closed Mon.

Town Moto

SPECIALTY STORES | Hard-core bikers and Sunday riders alike will love this shop that’s jam-packed with all types of motorcycle gear. On top of stylish biker jackets, there’s an impressive selection of helmets, goggles, and natty biker boots, as well as motorcycle-theme posters by local artists and a slew of T-shirts. E 132 Ossington Ave., West Queen West P 416/856–8011 w www.townmoto.com.

HOME DECOR

Quasi Modo

HOUSEHOLD ITEMS/FURNITURE | Design classics such as Herman Miller lounge chairs and Noguchi lamps are just a sampling of the high-end design pieces you’ll find here—there’s not a knock-off in sight. There’s also sleek modern homewares for the kitchen and bathroom as well. E 1079 Queen St. W, West Queen West P 416/703–8300 w www.quasimodomodern.com C Closed Sat.–Mon.

Urban Mode

HOUSEHOLD ITEMS/FURNITURE | Modern and trend-oriented furniture and home decor at this West Queen West spot include the playful furniture designs of Blu Dot, along with space-age sofas from Softline and bold Scandinavian creations from Muuto. E 145 Tecumseth St., West Queen West P 416/591–8834 w www.urbanmode.com C Closed Sun.

GIFTS

Drake General Store

GIFTS/SOUVENIRS | Only-in-Canada gifts like Mountie paraphernalia, patterned thermal onesies, super-soft Toronto-made Shared tees, and log-shaped pillows are tucked into every nook and cranny of this offbeat shop, an offshoot of the Drake Hotel across the street. The selection is a mix of fun, beautiful, and inexplicable, running the gamut from the Drake’s exclusive designs to hip brands from across Canada and around the world. E 1151 Queen St. W, West Queen West P 416/538–2222 w www.drakegeneralstore.ca.

SHOES, HANDBAGS, AND LEATHER GOODS

Heel Boy

SHOES/LUGGAGE/LEATHER GOODS | A tried-and-true spot for cool and cute footwear for both sexes, Heel Boy stocks the unique styles by well-known brands like Hunter, Ted Baker, Sam Edelman, and Superga, as well as on-trend bags and accessories. E 773 Queen St. W, West Queen West P 416/362–4335 w www.heelboy.com.

Zane

JEWELRY/ACCESSORIES | This sleek accessory boutique is the place to visit for trendy offbeat like handbags by Rebecca Minkoff and local designer Opelle; Le Specs sunglasses; and stunning handmade jewelry from Canadian indie designers like Jenny Bird, Biko, and Captve. E 753 Queen St. W, West Queen West P 647/352–9263 w www.visitzane.com.

Ossington

If your Toronto travel plans include a bar crawl, odds are you’ll end up on the Ossington strip, which has become one of the city’s hottest nightlife destinations in recent years.

r Restaurants

dingbat Foxley

$$ | ASIAN FUSION | Like the appealingly bare-bones aesthetic of its space (exposed brick, hardwoods, candlelight), this creative Asian-Spanish bistro offers unadorned dishes that are jammed with flavor. After traveling for a year, chef-owner Tom Thai returned to Toronto with inspiration from places like Asia, Latin America, and the Mediterranean and the menu features a couple dozen tapas-style offerings, including spicy blue crab and avocado salad, lamb and duck prosciutto dumplings, and grilled side ribs with sticky shallot glaze. Known for: well-priced wine list; daily ceviche specials; seasonal back patio. D Average main: C$20 E 207 Ossington St., Ossington P 416/534–8520 C No lunch. Closed Sun.

Mamakas Taverna

$$$ | GREEK | The Danforth might be the epicenter of Greek food in Toronto, but across town on trendy Ossington, Mamakas is doing some of the city’s best Greek cooking. Diners snack on classics mezes like rich, creamy tzatziki and roasted eggplant before diving into more unusual dishes like lamb carpaccio or tea-brined chicken. Known for: Athenian market-inspired decor; seafood flown in from Greece; delicious desserts. D Average main: C$28 E 80 Ossington Ave., Ossington P 416/519–5996 w mamakas.ca C No lunch.

Pizzeria Libretto

$$ | PIZZA | Authentic thin-crust pizzas are fired in an imported wood-burning oven at this pizza joint that adheres to the rules set by Naples’s pizza authority. Go classic with the Margherita D.O.P.—with San Marzano tomatoes, fresh basil, and fior di latte mozzarella—or branch out with nduja (spicy salami) or duck confit pies. Known for: casual atmosphere; vegan and gluten-free options; prix-fixe weekday lunch deal. D Average main: C$16 E 221 Ossington Ave., Ossington P 416/532–8000 w www.pizzerialibretto.com.

n Nightlife

BARS

Bellwoods Brewery

BREWPUBS/BEER GARDENS | This restaurant, bar, and on-site brewery has been a smash hit since it opened in 2012. If the sun is shining, expect a line for the spacious patio, a great spot to sample the always evolving craft beer selection. Sour beer fans should try their seasonal fruit-infused Jelly King, which has beer drinkers queueing up at the bottle shop on release day. The hearty snacks run the gamut from Canadian cheeses and terrine to a crispy Newfoundland cod sandwich. E 126 Ossington Ave., Ossington w bellwoodsbrewery.com.

dingbat The Lockhart

BARS/PUBS | Don’t go in expecting wizarding robes and animatronic owls at this Harry Potter–theme bar. Instead, think of the laid-back, neon-lit little watering hole as the cocktail bar J. K. Rowling’s Diagon Alley never had. Grab a seat next to the wall of Potions and Elixirs and spot the references hidden around the bar while sipping fantastical cocktails like the Befuddlement Draft served on fire in a glass cauldron. E 1479 Dundas St. W, Little Portugal P 647/748–4434 w www.thelockhart.ca x Closed Mon.

Reposado

BARS/PUBS | The Toronto bar buzz is largely centered on Ossington Avenue, where bars, shops, and galleries have sprung up like wildflowers over the past few years. One of the first (it opened in 2007) and still going strong is this classy tequila bar. The dark wood, large windows, big back patio, and mix of DJs and live jazz set the tone for a serious list of tequilas meant to be sipped, not slammed, and Mexican nibbles like tequila-cured salmon with crostini. E 136 Ossington Ave., Ossington P 416/532–6474.

DANCE CLUBS

Lula Lounge

DANCE CLUBS | Latin-music lovers of all ages dress up to get down to live Afro-Cuban, Brazilian, and salsa music at this old-school hot spot. Pop and rock musicians also perform occasionally. Fridays and Saturday salsa nights include a dinner prix-fixe (C$59), a salsa lesson, and a live band performance. Lula is also an arts center, with dance and drumming lessons and a multitude of festivals and cultural events. E 1585 Dundas St. W, Little Portugal P 416/588–0307 w www.lula.ca.

b Shopping

ART GALLERIES

Stephen Bulger Gallery

ART GALLERIES | The collection of roughly 30,000 photos focuses on historical and contemporary Canadian photography, with ongoing exhibitions. E 1356 Dundas St. W., Little Portugal P 416/504–0575 w www.bulgergallery.com C Closed Sun. and Mon. m Dundas.

CLOTHING

Annie Aime

CLOTHING | Bright comfy threads with a European aesthetic and a focus on sustainable production are the focus here. Expect items like chunky knits from Icelandic brand Matthildur, breezy dresses by France’s Cotelac, and Turkish-made deconstructed sweaters from Crea Concept. The eye-catching graffiti painting inside makes for a perfect fashion backdrop. E 42 Ossington Ave., Ossington P 416/840–5227 w www.annieaime.com.

I Miss You Vintage

CLOTHING | The immaculately restored picks in this upscale consignment shop include familiar names such as Pucci, Hermès, Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent. Gentlemen can head next door to I Miss You Man for vintage Versace button-downs, gently used Acne jackets, and Dior shades—all in near-mint condition. E 63 Ossington Ave., Ossington P 416/916–7021 w imissyouvintage.com.

Victoire

CLOTHING | This Ottawa-based boutique has its finger firmly on the pulse of home-grown fashion, stocking edgy cocktail dresses from Montréal designer Eve Gravel, cute sundresses from Canadian label Birds of North America, and a treasure trove of jewelry and fun gifts. E 129A Ossington Ave., Ossington P 416/588–6978 w www.victoireboutique.com.

VSP Consignment

CLOTHING | Want to score a designer label on a dime? Head to this beautifully laid out consignment store. The staff curate a selection of gently-worn pieces from Prada, Marni, Theory, Celine, and other top-shelf brands. E 1410 Dundas St. W, Little Portugal P 416/588–9821 w www.vspconsignment.com.

MUSIC

dingbat Rotate This

MUSIC STORES | Music lovers in the know come here for underground and independent music from Canada, the United States, and beyond. E 186 Ossington Ave., Ossington P 416/504–8447 w www.rotate.com.

Parkdale

Farther west than even West Queen West is Parkdale, a fairly gritty neighborhood that’s become home to North America’s largest Tibetan community. Shops offering everything from beef momos (dumplings) to singing bowls infuse the area with a unique local character. In neighboring Roncesvalles is High Park, a sprawling green space with a beautiful pond.

s Sights

High Park

CITY PARK | FAMILY | One of North America’s loveliest parks, High Park (at one time the privately owned countryside “farm” of John George Howard, Toronto’s first city architect) is especially worth visiting in summer, when the many special events include professionally staged Shakespeare productions. Hundreds of Torontonians and guests arrive at dinnertime and picnic on blankets before the show. Admission is by donation. Grenadier Pond in the southwest corner of the park is named after the British soldiers who, it’s said, crashed through the soft ice while rushing to defend the town against invading American forces in 1813. In summer there are concerts on Sunday afternoon, and there is skating in winter. At the south end of High Park, near Colborne Lodge, is the High Park Zoo, which is open daily from dawn to dusk. It’s more modest than the Toronto Zoo but a lot closer to downtown and free. Kids love walking among the deer, Barbary sheep, emus, yaks, llamas, peacocks, and bison. Colborne Lodge was built more than 150 years ago by Howard on a hill overlooking Lake Ontario. This Regency-style “cottage” contains its original fireplace, bake oven, and kitchen, as well as many of Howard’s drawings and paintings. Other highlights of the 399-acre park are a large swimming pool, tennis courts, fitness trails, and hillside gardens with roses and sculpted hedges. There’s limited parking along Bloor Street north of the park, and along the side streets on the eastern side. dingbat TIP → June through August, on the first and third Sunday, free 1½-hour walking tours depart across the street from Grenadier Restaurant at 10:30 am. E Bordered by Bloor St. W, Gardiner Expressway, Parkside Dr., and Ellis Park Rd. Main entrance off Bloor St. W at High Park Ave., Bloor West Village P 416/392–1748 w www.highpark.org m High Park.

r Restaurants

Tibet Kitchen

$ | NEPALESE | Parkdale has a number of great momo (Tibetan dumplings) places, but Tibet Kitchen stands out with a cozy sit-down atmosphere and a menu that takes just enough liberties with classic recipes. Chicken, beef, and veggie dumplings are all great, but you can also get them doused in mild curry broth or a sweet, tangy tamarind sauce. Known for: the chili chicken gets rave reviews; traditional drinks like butter tea; good portion sizes. D Average main: C$12 E 1544 Queen St. W, West Queen West P 416/913–8726 w tibetkitchen.ca C Closed Tues.

b Shopping

CLOTHING

In Vintage We Trust

CLOTHING | Looking for a vintage jacket bearing the logo of your favorite sports team? You’ll probably find it at this Parkdale boutique, which stocks hip retro clothing at reasonable prices. Vintage denim, broken-in concert tees, and even vinyl records are on the shelves. E 1580 Queen St. W, West Queen West P 416/781–0395 w invintagewetrust.com.

JEWELRY AND ACCESSORIES

Studio Brillantine

GIFTS/SOUVENIRS | While most of the shops in Parkdale are down-to-earth and practical, Studio Brillantine skews trendy with Comme des Garcons wallets, Issey Miyake foldable bags, Vivienne Westwood jewelry, Alessi kitchenware, and collectible vinyl toys. E 1518 Queen St. W, West Queen West P 416/536–6521 w studiobrillantine.com.

NEIGHBORHOOD SNAPSHOT

West Queen West

Ossington

Parkdale