TOP REASONS TO GO
Discover Interesting Eateries: Dig into a gyro in Greektown, or eat a dosa that’s larger than your head in Little India. Head Back to the Beach: Toronto has some pretty stretches of sand, many of them in a neighborhood helpfully called The Beaches. Music All Night Long: Take in some of the best local bands at the Danforth Music Hall or the Opera House. Find a Bargain: Browse the hip boutiques and vintage stores along the main drag in Leslieville. Look for the Lighthouse: Tommy Thompson Park is the place for sailing, biking, or bird-watching.GETTING HERE
To explore Leslieville, take the 501 Queen streetcar east from downtown to Coxwell Avenue and walk west along Queen Street East. To get to Little India, take the same streetcar east to Coxwell Avenue.
To get to Greektown, take the Line 2 Bloor-Danforth subway to Pape station and walk west along Danforth Avenue.
PLANNING YOUR TIME
With its array of small boutiques, Leslieville is a good place to stroll around in during the day. Stick around for dinner or grab a nightcap—the low-key bar scene tends to attract locals throughout the week. By contrast, The Beaches are great to explore on a sunny day, tough the area tends to be pretty dead after dark. Little India and Greektown both tend to come alive during the day on weekends, when locals and families are out in full force, and both are busy destinations for dinner on Friday and weekends.
QUICK BITES
Ed’s Real Scoop. There are two locations of this ice-cream parlor along Queen East, serving unique and delicious flavors (try the toasted marshmallow) and fresh waffle cones. 920 Queen St. E, Leslieville; 2224 Queen St. E., The Beaches edsrealscoop.com Leslieville Pumps. A 24-hour gas station serves some of the best barbecue in the area? Yes; the poutine is good, too. 929 Queen St. E, Leslieville leslievillepumps.com Messini. This reliable spot for gyros offers both dine-in and quick-service takeout. 445 Danforth Ave., The Danforth messini.ca ChesterAlong Queen Street East, the thoroughfare that passes through many of the city’s most interesting neighborhoods, Leslieville is home to an increasingly hip mix of bars, shops, and restaurants. The offerings here lean toward local designer boutiques, chic eateries, and a number of indie coffee shops. To the north is the Danforth, better known to locals as Greektown. Late-night tavernas and authentic eateries keep this neighborhood busy at all hours. Every August the Taste of the Danforth ( www.tasteofthedanforth.com) shows off the area’s best.
Running along Gerrard Street north of Leslieville is the area known as Little India. The neighborhood hosts the largest collection of South Asian businesses in North America, and includes everything from crystal sellers to sari shops. The area comes alive in the evening and on weekends, when families head out for a meal or street snacks.
Pass through Leslieville along Queen East and you’ll get to The Beaches, a laid-back area lined with heritage homes. The beaches that give the area its name are a popular destination for swimmers and sunbathers in the summertime. Businesses here cater to well-to-do local families, with funky womenswear, relaxed dining, and cute home goods shops. An annual jazz festival in July ( beachesjazz.com) attracts thousands of listeners.
This low-key neighborhood has tons of hidden-gem restaurants, stores, and cafés, but it’s also become an epicenter of the city’s recent brewery boom.
Sights
Tommy Thompson Park
CITY PARK | This park comprises a peninsula that juts 5 km (3 miles) into Lake Ontario. It was created from bricks and rubble from construction sites around the city and sand dredged for a new port. It has quickly become one of the best areas in the city for cycling, jogging, walking, sailing, photography, and especially bird-watching. The strange, artificial peninsula is home (or a stopover) to the largest breeding colony of double-crusted cormorants in North America, as well as dozens of species of terns, ducks, geese, and great egrets. At the end of the spit of land, you’ll find a red-and-white lighthouse, in addition to amazing views of downtown and an awesome sense of isolation in nature. Bird-watching is best from May to mid-October. To get here, head east along Queen Street to Leslie Street, then south to the lake. No private vehicles are permitted in the park. Entrance at foot of Leslie St., south of Lakeshore Blvd. E, Leslieville 416/661–6600 www.tommythompsonpark.ca.
Restaurants
$$$ | ITALIAN | Toronto has its fair share of delicate, thin-crust Neapolitan pizza, but this is where the locals go to indulge their carb cravings with thick Detroit-style pies cooked in rectangular pans. Go simple with the classic pepperoni, or try an international twist with the Jaffna (a twist on Sri Lankan kothu roti) or a jerk chicken version with pineapple. Known for: hip industrial setting; good selection of local beers; long waits at peak times. Average main: C$21 1168 Queen St. E, Leslieville 647/347–1168 descendantdsp.com Closed Mon.
$$ | ECLECTIC | A Leslieville staple for more than a decade, this restaurant occupies an airy two-floor space with huge windows in a gorgeous old home just north of the main Queen East drag. It’s a lovely spot for hearty, homey brunch dishes like cheddar jalapeño waffles, washed down with coffee in vintage Corningware mugs. Known for: classy, modern dining room; great variations on eggs Benedict; long waits at peak times. Average main: C$16 265 Broadview Ave., Leslieville 647/351–7645 ladymarmalade.ca No dinner.
$$ | PIZZA | One of the best pizza places east of town, this industrial-chic space with dark wooden floors and tables is all about authenticity when it comes to the Neapolitan pizza oven. Favorites include the classic Margherita, topped with tomato sauce, mozzarella, and basil, as well as the Dominator, with rapini, fennel sausage, and smoked mozzarella. Known for: Neapolitan-style pies with gently charred crusts; don’t pass up the appetizers; scrumptious desserts. Average main: C$18 1402 Queen St. E, Unit 8, Leslieville 416/466–6555 www.qmpizza.com No lunch Fri. Pape.
$$$$ | CANADIAN | Chef Lynn Crawford, a household name in Canada, runs this industrial-chic restaurant, where hyper-local sourcing dictates the one starter, main, cheese course, and dessert available per evening (though vegetarian options are available). If you decide to place your trust in Crawford’s hands, you can count on your meal to be farm-fresh and bursting with flavor. Known for: run by a celebrity chef; four-course tasting menu; intimate atmosphere. Average main: C$58 730 Queen St. E, Leslieville 416/465–0100 rubywatchco.ca No lunch. Closed Sun. and Mon.
$$ | MIDDLE EASTERN | Bold Middle Eastern flavors and spices are showcased at Tabülè, where traditional appetizers include baba ghanoush and hummus served with warm flatbread, and stand-out falafel fried to a deep golden brown and served with thick, rich tahini sauce. Grilled meats and seafood are also excellent. Known for: Moroccan-chic decor; varied drinks list; colorful back patio. Average main: C$19 810 Queen St. E, Leslieville 416/465–2500 www.tabule.ca Broadview.
Hotels
The Broadview Hotel
$$$ | HOTEL | This dramatic historic building is the setting for one of the hippest hotels in town, with quirky rooms, stylish restaurants, and a sprawling rooftop deck. Pros: fun and funky decor is a hipster paradise; also a hopping nightlife destination; best bet in this part of town. Cons: party vibe not everyone’s cup of tea; some rooms get street noise; no spa or workout area. Rooms from: C$350 106 Broadview Ave., Leslieville 416/362–8439 thebroadviewhotel.ca 58 rooms No meals.
BARS
The Rooftop at the Broadview Hotel
BARS/PUBS | This hotel’s sceney rooftop bar has become the East End’s number-one party spot. The lounge space is encased in a glass pyramid that allows for stunning views of the surrounding city, with a wraparound open-air deck. If the top floor isn’t your scene, there’s also a neon-bathed terrace a few doors down, plus a chill downstairs bar space perfect for a glass of wine and a few oysters from their daily selection. Broadview Hotel, 106 Broadview Ave., Leslieville 416/362–8439 thebroadviewhotel.ca.
WAYLA
BARS/PUBS | An east-end stronghold for the city’s queer scene, WAYLA (an acronym for “what are you looking at?”) welcomes a varied crowd to its warrenlike space, which includes a dance floor. Live music, comedy, karaoke, dance parties, and DJ residencies are all on the calendar. 996 Queen St. E, Leslieville 416/901–5570 waylabar.ca.
MUSIC VENUES
Opera House
MUSIC CLUBS | This late 19th-century vaudeville theater retains some of its original charm, most notably in its proscenium arch over the stage. The 850-capacity venue hosts internationally touring acts of all genres. Locals like to reminisce about seeing such diverse acts as Nirvana, Lucinda Williams, Kings of Leon, LCD Soundsystem, M.I.A., and the Black Keys, here. 735 Queen St. E, Leslieville 416/466–0313 www.theoperahousetoronto.com.
Head east to Leslieville, a slice of Queen East stretched between Carlaw and Greenwood. Once noted mostly for antiques and junk shops, Leslieville has become the place for hip clothing boutiques and brunch spots.
ANTIQUES
Gadabout
ANTIQUES/COLLECTIBLES | This antique shop is a rummager’s paradise. The shelves groan with 1950s salt and pepper shakers, snake skin handbags, costume jewelry, and Hudson’s Bay blankets, and there are racks of vintage clothing that range from the 1800s to the 1970s. There’s even an extensive section of vintage menswear. You can rifle through the scores of carefully labeled drawers to find magicians’ business cards, Nana Mouskouri specs, and creepy vintage curling irons. Display cases burst with curios—medicinal bottles, a collection of eggshell-faced Japanese dolls, and a feng shui compass. 1300 Queen St. E, Leslieville 416/463–1254 www.gadabout.ca.
ART GALLERIES
Arts Market
ANTIQUES/COLLECTIBLES | More than 50 artisans and purveyors display their wares in tiny spaces where vintage collections rub shoulders with mixed-media paintings, artisanal soaps, and rhubarb jam. 1114 Queen St. E, Leslieville 416/546–8464 www.artsmarket.ca.
CLOTHING
Any Direct Flight
CLOTHING | At the eastern edge of Leslieville, Any Direct Flight offers retro-inspired yet contemporary designs for women. The spacious, exposed-brick rooms have comfy couches encouraging leisurely browsing of the feminine yet edgy collection of slouchy pants, sweater dresses, and asymmetric tops. You can even mull over your clothing options at the in-store café. 1382 Queen St. E, Leslieville 416/504–0017.
Bergström Originals
CLOTHING | Christina Bergström’s bold, bright designs are created with an eye for quality and wearability. Slip on an ankle-length dress in multicolor stripes, or a punchy printed blouse, and you’ll see what we mean. There’s also a great selection of chunky heels and colorful flats from brands like Fly London. 781 Queen St. E, Leslieville 416/595–7320 www.bergstromoriginals.com.
Doll Factory by Damzels
CLOTHING | The Doll Factory carries 1950s gingham and sailor-inspired pin-up looks from Toronto designers Damzels in this Dress, and other rock ’n’ roll retro designs from across the continent. Chunky heels and polka-dot wedges are on the shelves, as are high-waisted bikinis perfect for flattering those curves. Another branch can be found in Roncesvalles at 394 Roncesvalles Avenue. 1122 Queen St. E, Leslieville 416/598–0509 www.damzels.com.
Good Neighbour
CLOTHING | This hip boutique, which occupies two floors of a Victorian home, is a one-stop shop for the whole fashion-forward family. The women’s section features cute dresses from indie brands, denim from Citizens of Humanity, and lingerie by Fortnight and Mary Young. Head up the steep stairs to the men’s section, which features Filson bags and upscale toiletries. 935 Queen St. E, Leslieville 647/350–0663 goodnbr.com.
This area along Danforth Avenue named after Asa Danforth, an American contractor who cut a road into the area in 1799, has a dynamic ethnic mix, although it’s primarily a Greek community. In the heart of the neighborhood, east of Chester subway station is the area referred to as “Greektown,” with its bakeries turning out mouthwatering baklava, tyropita (cheese pie), and touloumbes (fried cinnamon-flavored cakes soaked in honey), and a number of late-night taverns. Summer is the best season to visit, as most eateries have patios open and are busy until the wee hours of morning.
Restaurants
Historically known as Greektown, the Danforth has gotten an infusion of international restaurants, which makes for more varied dining options.
$$$ | IRISH | Slide into a well-worn wood booth or sit at a checkered table at this low-key steak house, complete with oak bar and pressed-tin ceiling. The steaks and Guinness-braised lamb shanks get rave reviews, but the hamburgers, ground in-house, might be Allen’s secret weapon. Known for: willow-shaded patio in summer; 380 types of whiskey; decadent desserts. Average main: C$25 143 Danforth Ave., Danforth 416/463–3086 www.allens.to Broadview.
$$ | GREEK | FAMILY | Who doesn’t have a foodie love affair with Greek appetizers? At Christina’s, you can order them individually or as a large platter combination that comes with warm pita. Known for: ample portions of Greek classics; heated patio open year-round; live music on weekends. Average main: C$20 492 Danforth Ave., Danforth 416/463–4418 www.christinas.ca Chester.
$$$ | CANADIAN | The motto here is “think global. eat local,” and the Globe does justice to this by letting locally raised main ingredients like elk and rainbow trout shine in Canadian-inspired dishes. The interior is classy, if a tad dated; weather permitting, you may want to try the swanky rooftop patio. Known for: sample everything at the dinnertime tasting menu; eclectic wine list with a Canadian focus; popular brunch. Average main: C$27 124 Danforth Ave., Danforth 416/466–2000 www.globebistro.com Closed Mon. and Tues. No lunch Wed. and Thurs. Broadview.
BARS
Dora Keogh
BARS/PUBS | Crossing the threshold into this Danforth pub, decked out with cozy wooden booths (or “snugs”) is like time-warping to the Emerald Isle. Folk, rock, and traditional Irish musicians perform here regularly, and the Guinness is always flowing. 141 Danforth Ave., Danforth 416/778–1804 dorakeogh.to Broadview.
The Only Cafe
BARS/PUBS | The delightfully divey Only, on a relatively quiet stretch of the Danforth, is known as one of the city’s best beer bars, with 25 taps plus more than 200 bottles and cans. The atmosphere is dim and raucous, with 1990s alt-rock blasting on the stereo. During the day, half of the bar is a coffee shop. 972 Danforth Ave., Danforth 416/463–7843 www.theonlycafe.com Donlands.
MUSIC VENUES
Danforth Music Hall
MUSIC CLUBS | Built as a cinema in 1919, this stately theater is now a live music venue that attracts popular touring acts the run the gamut of punk, rock, rap, folk, and electronic music, and even stand-up comedy. Notable performers here have included Rihanna, Blue Rodeo, St. Vincent, and Dave Chappelle. 147 Danforth Ave., Danforth 416/778–8163 www.thedanforth.com Broadview.
Greektown is best known as a place to eat, and appropriately there’s a fair amount of culinary retail to go along with the grazing. Carrot Common, just east of Chester subway, houses New Age businesses like the Big Carrot and its juice bar, yoga and massage studios, along with a few independent boutiques.
FOOD
The Big Carrot
FOOD/CANDY | This popular health-food supermarket carries good selections of organic produce, health and beauty aids, and vitamins. There’s a vegetarian café and juice bar on-site and freshly prepared foods for takeout. 348 Danforth Ave., Danforth 416/466–2129 www.thebigcarrot.ca Chester.
HOME DECOR
IQ Living
HOUSEHOLD ITEMS/FURNITURE | If you like kitchen gadgets, you might lose a few hours here. Check out the rainbow array of Emile Henry ceramic cookware, Le Creuset enamelware, and bright nesting bowls and utensils by the innovative Joseph Joseph. There’s also a vast selection of insulated lunch boxes and bags, including take-along bento boxes can be found, along with funky Popsicle molds, barware, and any other obscure gadget your kitchen may be lacking. 542 Danforth Ave., Danforth 416/466–2727 www.iqliving.com Pape or Chester.
Follow your nose through the sweets shops, food stalls, and curry restaurants, and allow your eyes to be dazzled by storefront displays of jewelry, Hindu deities, and swaths of sensuous fabrics ablaze with sequins. The area really comes alive in the evening, when those with hungry bellies stroll in search of a fiery madras, creamy korma, or hearty masala curry. Many of the restaurants offer inexpensive but delicious buffet lunches and dinners, and they get especially busy on weekends.
The area is home to a diverse group of people, and there are many festivals throughout the year. During the biggest event, the three-day Festival of South Asia in July ( www.festivalofsouthasia.com), stages are set for colorful music and dance performances, and the streets fill with the tantalizing scents of snack stalls and the calls of vendors peddling everything from henna tattoos to spicy corn on the cob. In late autumn, the Hindu Festival of Lights (Diwali) is celebrated with a fun and fiery street fete.
Sights
Gerrard India Bazaar
NEIGHBORHOOD | The Gerrard India Bazaar isn’t a place, exactly. It’s a strip of Gerrard Street that’s home to more than 100 shops and restaurants with a South Asia flavor. One of the city’s top cultural landmarks, it’s the place to find colorful saris, ceramic incense burners, and barfi (a milk-based dessert) and other handmade sweets. It’s also home of the Festival of South Asia. Gerrard St., between Greenwood Ave. and Coxwell Ave., Toronto.
Restaurants
$$ | NORTH INDIAN | A trip to Little India isn’t complete without hitting up this raucous Pakistani-North Indian spot, popular with locals and families. You might have a bit of a long wait at peak times (generally Friday and weekend nights), but standout biryani, kebabs, tandoori chicken, and sizzling plates of tikka will be your reward. Known for: colorful tuk-tuks and rickshaws as decor; huge covered side patio; house-made kulfi for dessert. Average main: C$16 1365 Gerrard St. E, Little India 416/406–1668 lahoretikkahouse.com.
$$ | INDIAN | The fluorescent lights and metal chairs lend this basement restaurant a rather basic atmosphere but all is forgiven when you taste the dosas (pancakes made with fermented rice batter) at this meat-free Indian restaurant, beloved by herbivores and omnivores alike. They also do excellent renditions of classic snacks like pakoras and bhaji, as well as curries like aloo gobi or saag paneer. Known for: wide range of vegetarian and vegan dishes; sunny dining room; sharable dishes. Average main: C$15 1460 Gerrard St. E, Little India 416/405–8189 udupipalace.ca.
This neighborhood’s official name has been a source of controversy since the 1980s: The Beach versus The Beaches. It boils down to whether you view the four separate beaches—Woodbine, Balmy, Kew, and Scarboro—as one collective entity. When the area decided to welcome tourists with fancy, emblematic street signs, the long-running debate surfaced. While officially “The Beach” won, most Torontonians still call the neighborhood The Beaches.
Beaches
Kew-Balmy Beach
BEACH—SIGHT | Just a 10-minute walk east on the boardwalk from Woodbine Beach, the officially merged stretch of Kew Beach, Scarboro Beach, and Balmy Beach is a bit pebbly and slightly more secluded, making it ideal for those seeking a quieter stroll or a dip in the lake. Look for the historic Leuty Lifeguard Station, which was built in the 1920s. Kayak and stand-up paddleboard rental shops sit along the shore. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (paid); showers; toilets. Best for: walking; sunrise; swimming. 1 Beech Ave., The Beach toronto.ca/parks.
Woodbine Beach
BEACH—SIGHT | The largest, and probably best-known, of all the area beaches spans 37.5 acres along the coast of Lake Ontario. You’ll find beachgoers of all ages swimming, sunbathing, picnicking, strolling the boardwalk, and playing volleyball on one of the numerous outdoor courts. There are a few takeout restaurants here, as well as the upscale Neruda restaurant. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (paid); showers; toilets. Best for: partiers; sunrise; swimming; walking. 1675 Lake Shore Blvd. E, The Beach toronto.ca/parks.
Activities
WATER SPORTS
Kayak and canoe rentals are fairly easy to come by at The Beaches, but stand-up paddleboarding has become an increasingly popular activity on the Lake Ontario shores.
Surf The Greats
SURFING | This Leslieville surf shop offers introductory courses in lake surfing and stand-up paddleboarding. Surfing classes are scheduled a few days in advance to ensure you’ll have good weather conditions. You can also join tours of hidden locations around the waterfront. 250 Carlaw Ave., Unit 101, Leslieville 647/479–8969 surfthegreats.org.
The Beaches is known for casual-clothing stores, gift and antiques shops, and bars and restaurants.
FOOD
Nutty Chocolatier
FOOD/CANDY | A Beaches institution, the Nutty Chocolatier serves ice cream in house-made waffle cones, as well as handmade molded chocolates and truffles from Port Perry, just northeast of Toronto. The old-school candy—Charleston Chew and Tootsie Rolls—and British imports like Irn Bru, Walker’s Crisps, Flakies, and Yorkshire Tea are equally popular. 2179 Queen St. E, The Beach 416/698–5548 thenuttychocolatier.com.
HOME DECOR
Seagull Classics Ltd.
HOUSEHOLD ITEMS/FURNITURE | Cottage-chic is the name of the game at this popular home decor shop that’s all about cute, woodsy decor items like rugs, retro deck chairs, and Tiffany-style lamps. There’s a nice selection of furniture, and they also do custom orders. 1974 Queen St. E, The Beach 416/690–5224 www.seagullclassics.com.
SHOES, HANDBAGS, AND LEATHER GOODS
Nature’s Footwear
SHOES/LUGGAGE/LEATHER GOODS | Established in 1978, this tiny, family-run shoe shop specializes in comfortable walking shoes. They carry an impressive selection of styles, sizes, and widths by Birkenstock, Crocs, Keds, and Sperry Topsiders, as well as moccasins and Sorel and Kamik boots for winter. 1971a Queen St. E, The Beach 416/691–6706.
