TOP REASONS TO GO
Get Cultured: Take in the Gardiner Museum or the Royal Ontario Museum, two of the city’s finest. Discover The Village: Experience LGBTQ culture in Church and Wellesley, better known to locals as The Village. Alternative Shopping: Browse a wide range of interesting indie boutiques in Church and Wellesley and Rosedale. Get Out the Credit Card: Discover Canada’s homegrown fashion houses along Yorkville’s upscale “Mink Mile.” Walking Tour: Take a stroll through Cabbagetown, known for its beautiful cottages.GETTING HERE
Church and Wellesley is located along Church Street, which runs parallel to Yonge Street a few blocks east. To get to the heart of the action, take the subway to Wellesley and walk east. You could also take the subway to College and walk north along Church Street, or take the subway to Bloor-Yonge and head south.
Yorkville runs along Bloor Street between the Yonge-Bloor (to the east) and St. George (to the west) subway stations.
For Rosedale, take the subway to Summerhill and walk south along Yonge Street, or take the subway to Rosedale and head north.
PLANNING YOUR TIME
Church and Wellesley tends to come alive on weekends, particularly in the summertime. Yorkville, thanks to its location near the center of the city at Yonge and Bloor, is perpetually buzzing. Rosedale is quieter and more residential.
QUICK BITES
The Black Camel. This tiny café, just outside the Rosedale subway station, serves some of the city’s favorite sandwiches. 4 Crescent, Rosedale www.blackcamel.ca Rosedale North of Brooklyn. This local pizza chain with locations around the city serves great thin-crust slices and garlic knots. 469 Church, Church-Wellesley Village www.northofbrooklyn.com Wellesley Palm Lane. Inside the Yorkville Village shopping center, this spot offers flavorful salads and grain bowls. 55 Ave., Yorkville www.palmlane.ca BayYorkville is one of the ritziest neighborhoods in town, where you’ll often see luxury cars pulled up outside the Holt Renfrew department store, or slow-rolling past packed bistro patios. By contrast, Church and Wellesley is a casual, out-and-proud LGBTQ community where locals party late into the night (and then roll out of bed for brunch the next day). To the northeast, tony residential Rosedale is a place to window-shop for fantasy Victorian houses, and around cute clothing and home decor boutiques.
Toronto’s equivalent of Fifth Avenue or Rodeo Drive, Yorkville—and Bloor Street in particular, cheekily called “mink mile”—is a dazzling spread of posh shops stocked with designer clothes, furs, and jewels, along with restaurants, galleries, and specialty boutiques. It’s also where much of the excitement takes place in September during the annual Toronto International Film Festival, the world’s largest and most people-friendly film festival, where the public actually gets to see premieres and hidden gems and attend industry seminars. Klieg lights shine over skyscrapers, cafés teem with the well-heeled, and everyone practices air kisses. Yorkville is also home to a unique park on Cumberland Street, designed as a series of gardens along old property lines and reflecting both the history of the Village of Yorkville and the diversity of the Canadian landscape.
Sights
Gardiner Museum
MUSEUM | Dedicated to the art of clay and ceramics, this museum has more than 4,000 pieces in its permanent collection, from 17th-century English delftware and 18th-century European porcelain to Japanese Kakiemon-style pottery and Chinese white-and-blue porcelain. If your visit coincides with lunchtime, hit on-site bistro Clay for creative, locally oriented cuisine (and one of the best hidden patios in town). Free guided tours of the museum take place at 2 pm daily and there are drop-in sessions in the clay studio (Wednesday and Friday 6–8 pm; Sunday 1–3 pm; C$15). 
TIP → Admission is half price on Wednesday after 4 (kids under 18 are always free). 111 Queen’s Park Crescent, Yorkville 416/586–8080 www.gardinermuseum.on.ca C$12 Museum.
Royal Ontario Museum
MUSEUM | FAMILY | The ROM (as the Royal Ontario Museum is known to locals), opened in 1914, is Canada’s largest museum and it has a reputation for making its science, art, and archaeology exhibits accessible and appealing. The architecture of the gigantic complex, which includes the ultramodern Michael Lee-Chin Crystal gallery—a series of interlocking prismatic shapes spilling out onto Bloor Street—helps exemplify this.
Other highlights include the Hyacinth Gloria Chen Crystal Court, a four-story atrium with aluminum bridges connecting the old and new wings, and an angular pendant skylight through which light pours into the open space. A look through the windows reveals parts of the treasures inside, such as the daunting creatures from the Age of Dinosaurs exhibit standing guard. The Patricia Harris Gallery of Textiles and Costume angles out 80 feet over Bloor Street from its fourth-floor perch.
The Daphne Cockwell Gallery of Canada exhibits an impressive range of First Peoples historical objects and artifacts, from precontact time to the present. The Chinese Sculpture Gallery in the Matthews Family Court displays monumental Buddhist sculpture dating from 200 BC through 1900; the Gallery of Korea is North America’s largest permanent gallery devoted to Korean art and culture. The Sir Christopher Ondaatje South Asian Gallery houses the best objects of a 7,000-piece collection that spans 5,000 years, and includes items from Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, the Maldives, Nepal, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, and Tibet. TIP → The museum stays open late (till 8:30 pm) on the third Monday of every month, during which time admission is free. 100 Queen’s Park, Yorkville 416/586–8000 www.rom.on.ca C$23 Museum.
Toronto Reference Library
LIBRARY | Designed by one of Canada’s most admired architects, Raymond Moriyama, who also created the Ontario Science Centre, this five-story library is arranged around a large atrium, which gives a wonderful sense of open space. One-third of the more than 5.5 million items—spread across 82 km (51 miles) of shelves—are open to the public. Audio carrels are available for listening to nearly 40,000 music and spoken-word recordings. The largest Performing Arts Centre in a public library in Canada is on the fifth floor—as is the Arthur Conan Doyle Room, which is of special interest to Baker Street fans. It houses the world’s finest public collection of Holmesiana, including records, films, photos, books, manuscripts, letters, and even cartoon books starring Sherlock Hemlock of Sesame Street. 789 Yonge St., Yorkville 416/395–5577 www.torontopubliclibrary.ca Bloor-Yonge.
Restaurants
Home to the rich and fabulous, Yorkville is the prime spot for celebrity sightings, especially during the Toronto International Film Festival. Posh bars and lively patios all provide a chance to do a little people-watching, and to sample some of the city’s best high-end cuisine.
Café Boulud
$$$$ | FRENCH | Spearheaded by world-renowned restaurateur Daniel Boulud, Café Boulud occupies the coveted dining room of the Four Seasons Toronto and presents itself as a serene, airy French brasserie decked out with sage-green banquettes and gilded accents. Boulud does simple French fare, executed perfectly, like steak tartare tossed tableside, duck confit, and mouthwatering roast chicken on a bed of crisp-skinned potatoes. Known for: classic French food; celebrity chef connection; inventive desserts. Average main: C$36 60 Yorkville Ave., Yorkville 416/963–6005 www.cafeboulud.com/toronto Bay.
$$$$ | FRENCH | Sequestered down a pedestrian walkway in the heart of Yorkville, this petite spot oozes romance. Diners are seated right next to the minuscule, wide-open kitchen and can watch the action as the kitchen turns out gratins, parchment-wrapped whitefish, and seafood stew (“ttoro”) in a saffron broth that’s poured tableside with choreographed grace. The apple tart, baked to order and smothered in apple-brandy cream, is a must. Known for: ultracozy, intimate vibe; modern spin on French food; luxurious desserts. Average main: C$36 90 Yorkville Ave., Yorkville 416/428–6641 www.chabrolrestaurant.com Bay.
The Host
$$ | INDIAN | Waiters bustle around the handsome dining room at this popular spot, carrying baskets of hot naan, an indication of the restaurant’s attention to details. The selection of tandoor-cooked entrées, spanning from fish and shrimp to chicken coated in green chili paste, is particularly noteworthy. Known for: fine-dining atmosphere; excellent desserts, like gulab jamun (small cakes soaked in rosewater-scented honey); Friday lunch buffet. Average main: C$19 14 Prince Arthur Ave., Yorkville 416/962–4678 www.welcometohost.com No lunch Mon. Bay.
$$$$ | SEAFOOD | Sensuous paintings of nudes and the sea and signed celebrity photos line the walls at this two-story seafood institution. The kitchen prepares dishes from the Dalmatian side of the Adriatic Sea, and members of the international artistic community who frequent the place adore the unusual and healthy array of seafood and fish. The black risotto with squid, served in a shareable portion size, is a must, as are the grilled prawns with lemon garlic butter. Known for: eccentric, artistic decor; seafood-focused menu; the restaurant has a cameo on Drake’s “Take Care” album cover. Average main: C$36 202 Davenport Rd., Yorkville 416/925–1903 www.josos.com Closed Sun. No lunch Sat. Dupont.
$$$ | ITALIAN | The combination of comfort and casual luxury here has made Mistura a Yorkville staple. The menu is mostly refined Italian classics, like beef carpaccio with arugula and pasta with wild boar ragu, and the whole fish is a carefully thought-out triumph. Vegetarians are given their due with signature dishes like beet risotto. Known for: luxe versions of Italian dishes; knowledgeable serving staff; sizeable wine list. Average main: C$30 265 Davenport Rd., Yorkville 416/515–0009 www.mistura.ca Closed Sun. No lunch Dupont.
One
$$$$ | INTERNATIONAL | The modern dining room at One, inside the Hazelton Hotel, is all rich woods, smoked glass, cowhide, and onyx—and thankfully the food lives up to all the razzle-dazzle. “Lobster spoons” with vermouth butter and miso-glazed black cod share space on a broad, varied menu with fresh pastas and exceptional house-aged steaks sourced from Prince Edward Island and Alberta. Known for: buzzy streetside patio; excellent seafood and steak; top-notch service. Average main: C$40 The Hazelton Hotel Toronto, 118 Yorkville Ave., Yorkville 416/961–9600 mcewangroup.ca/one Bay.
$$$ | VEGETARIAN | The upscale-yet-whimsical take on vegan food at Planta caused quite a stir when it opened in 2016, and the restaurant is still a favorite of the Yorkville lunch crowd. Menu standouts include satisfying thin-crust pizzas with vegan ricotta, an excellent veggie burger, and a queso dip that will fool even the pickiest cheese lover. Known for: bold, trendy decor; fun cocktails with cold-pressed juices; Sunday brunch. Average main: C$22 1221 Bay St., Yorkville 647/812–1221 plantarestaurants.com Bay.
$$$ | ITALIAN | This Southern Italian hideaway has been a magnet for visiting celebrities and well-heeled Yorkville locals since the early 1990s, and it’s still one of the city’s most popular posh restaurants. The dozen or so pastas, including freshly made gnocchi, are reliably excellent, but the grilled seafood options, spanning Dover sole to scallops to calamari, are stellar. Known for: low-lit, intimate setting; refined Italian dishes; wall of celebrity photos. Average main: C$30 120 Avenue Rd., Yorkville 416/962–0011 www.sottosotto.ca No lunch Sun. Bay.
Hotels
$$$$ | HOTEL | Luxury is the name of the game at this gleaming 55-story hotel, where the rooms are done in neutral tones and outfitted with soaking tubs, rain showers, and heated bathroom floors. Pros: on-site dining and nightlife hot spots; excellent on-site spa; top-notch service. Cons: hefty price tag; some rooms look onto residential building next door; modern decor can feel a bit austere. Rooms from: C$525 60 Yorkville Ave., Yorkville 416/964–0411 www.fourseasons.com/toronto 259 rooms No meals Bay.
$$$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | The Hazelton is a popular destination for visiting celebrities—and it looks the part, with clubby, modern furnishings, floor-to-ceiling windows, balconies, and bathrooms wrapped in forest-green granite. Pros: outstanding service; favorite of Hollywood celebs; great on-site spa. Cons: high-quality with the price tag to match; no hope of getting a room during TIFF; low-rise building means underwhelming views. Rooms from: C$525 118 Yorkville, Yorkville 647/696–8720 www.thehazeltonhotel.com 77 rooms No meals Bay.
InterContinental Toronto Yorkville
$$$ | HOTEL | This comfortable, refined outpost of the global InterContinental chain is a two-minute walk from the Yorkville shopping area and just across the street from the Royal Ontario Museum. Pros: great proximity to shopping and museums; rooftop lap pool and sauna; good value for the area. Cons: not as luxe as some other local hotels; bathrooms only have showers; rooms close to street level can be noisy. Rooms from: C$299 200 Bloor St. W, Yorkville 416/960–5200 www.toronto.intercontinental.com 212 rooms No meals Bay.
$$$$ | HOTEL | Nestled on a side street near some of Yorkville’s toniest shops, the Windsor Arms caters to a luxury clientele and personalized service is a priority: there’s a high guest-to-staff ratio and 24-hour butlers are on duty. Pros: high repeat business due to privacy and personalized service; luxurious, quiet atmosphere; good dining options, including afternoon tea service. Cons: high standards mean high prices; some fourth-floor rooms can be noisy if events are being hosted downstairs; rooms book up fast at peak times. Rooms from: C$398 18 St. Thomas St., Yorkville 416/971–9666 www.windsorarmshotel.com 28 rooms No meals Bay.
Nightlife
The trendy bars of Yorkville tend to draw a well-heeled clientele for excellent drinks, food, and views.
BARS
dBar
BARS/PUBS | This high-end lounge in the flagship Four Seasons Toronto is modern and low-key, with top-notch cocktails, including the rose-and-elderflower-infused Yorkville Affair. The food is spearheaded by French chef Daniel Boulud, so the menu goes far above and beyond simple bar bites—the charcuterie is house-made, and larger options include lobster rolls and steak frites. 21 Avenue Rd., Yorkville 416/963–6010 www.fourseasons.com Bay.
Hemingways
BARS/PUBS | One of the few Toronto pubs that isn’t overtaken by rowdy sports fans or students, Hemingways is a homey bastion in a sea of Yorkville swank. The three-story complex, with indoor and outdoor spaces (including a heated rooftop patio), is a mishmash of booths, tables, several bars, mirrors, artsy posters, and books. The pub grub menu, which covers everything from brunch to late night, is a big draw, too. About three-quarters of the over-30 professionals who frequent this place are regulars. 142 Cumberland St., Yorkville 416/968–2828 www.hemingways.to Bay.
CLASSICAL MUSIC
Koerner Hall
MUSIC | This handsome 1,135-seat concert hall pleases performers and audiences with rich acoustics and undulating wood “strings” floating overhead. Acts have included such greats as Yo-Yo Ma, Chick Corea, Ravi Shankar, Midori, Taj Mahal, and Savion Glover. It’s part of the TELUS Centre for Performance and Learning. 273 Bloor St. W, Yorkville 416/408–0208 rcmusic.com St. George.
Back in the 1960s, Yorkville was Canada’s hippie headquarters. Today it’s a well-heeled shopping and dining destination: the place to find high-end everything. The pedestrian-friendly streets in the heart of Yorkville—North of Bloor, west of Bay—are full of designer stores that are fun to browse even if you’re not buying, while Bloor Street, from Yonge Street to Avenue Road, is a virtual runway of world-renowned designer shops like Bulgari, Prada, Chanel, and quality chains.
ANTIQUES
Wagman Antiques
ANTIQUES/COLLECTIBLES | Wagman carries a large selection of art deco pieces and lighting, along with Italian (and a few French) pieces from the ’40s, ’50s, and ’60s. This is the place to find a showstopping glass-veneered sideboard or a Murano glass lamp. Depending on the piece, Wagman can ship to the United States and beyond. 224 Davenport Rd., at Avenue Rd., Yorkville 416/964–1047 wagmanantiques.com Closed weekends Dupont, St George.
ART GALLERIES
Loch Gallery
ART GALLERIES | This intimate gallery in an old Victorian house almost exclusively exhibits representational historic and contemporary Canadian painting and sculpture, and specializes in 19th- and 20th-century Canadian artists. 16 Hazelton Ave., Yorkville 416/964–9050 www.lochgallery.com Bay.
BOOKS
Indigo
BOOKS/STATIONERY | This Canadian megachain bookstore has stores all over the country but it’s headquartered in Toronto. It has a huge selection of books, magazines, and gift items as well as a Starbucks and occasional live entertainment. 55 Bloor St. W, Yorkville 416/925–3536 www.chapters.indigo.ca Bay.
CLOTHING
Chanel
CLOTHING | Coco herself would have loved this boutique, one of the company’s largest in North America, inside a historical building. Most of the brand’s latest offerings, including classic and seasonal bags and accessories are here, and the staff is welcoming, knowledgeable, and helpful, just what you’d expect from a store of this caliber. 98 Yorkville Ave., Yorkville 416/925–2577 www.chanel.com Bay.
Club Monaco
CLOTHING | This megachain has shops around the world but few know that the brand got its start right here in Toronto. The bright and airy flagship stocks design basics, sleek mid-price sportswear, and career clothes. It’s now owned by Ralph Lauren. 157 Bloor St. W, at Avenue Rd., Yorkville 416/591–8837 www.clubmonaco.com Museum or Bay.
George C
CLOTHING | If you’re put off by the anonymous uniformity of the big designers along Bloor but you have some money to spend and want a touch of originality, head to this three-story Victorian refurb for an inspired selection of bold, sophisticated shoes, bags, and clothes for men and women from French, Italian, American, and Australian designers that you won’t find anywhere else. 21 Hazelton Ave., Yorkville 416/962–1991 georgec.ca Bay.
Harry Rosen
CLOTHING | This five-floor department store is dedicated to the finest men’s fashions, stocked to the gills with suits, shirts, outerwear, shoes, and accessories from designers such as Hugo Boss, Armani, and Zegna. There’s also plenty of preppy classics available for those who favor a more relaxed look. 82 Bloor St. W, Yorkville 416/972–0556 www.harryrosen.com Bloor-Yonge.
Hermès
CLOTHING | The Parisian design house caters to the upscale horse- and hound-loving set, with classic sportswear, handbags, and accessories. 100 Bloor St. W, Yorkville 416/968–8626 www.hermes.com Bay.
Hugo Nicholson
CLOTHING | This boutique’s selection of evening wear is vast and exclusive: along with gowns by Alaia, Carolina Herrera, and more, there’s also a selection of never-worn vintage pieces, as well as an adjoining Vera Wang bridal boutique The service is old-school, with exacting alterations, a selection of accessories, and home delivery. 43 Hazelton Ave., Yorkville 416/927–7714 www.hugonicholson.com Bay.
Jacadi
CLOTHING | FAMILY | The city’s prettiest and priciest children’s clothes are stocked here, in vibrant colors and fine fabrics mostly from Paris. Stylish toys, linens, and baby gear round out the offerings. 87 Avenue Rd., in Yorkville Village, Yorkville 416/923–1717 www.jacadi.com Bay.
Kit and Ace
CLOTHING |“Technical cashmere” is the specialty of this Canadian brand and the shop’s copper-and-wood racks are stocked with refined basics for men and women: tees, trousers, button-downs, and workout gear, all in neutral hues and sleek fabrics. It’s pricier than your average fast-fashion basic, but Kit and Ace’s pieces are designed to withstand all kinds of abuse and still look flawless. The store does free alterations in-house, and if you’re in need of a caffeine boost, head around back to Sorry Coffee Co. for a latte or an espresso. 102 Bloor St. W, Yorkville 416/640–0287 kitandace.com Bay.
Motion
CLOTHING | This Toronto-based boutique features unique, comfortable clothing in cottons, linens, and wools. Many pieces are designed and made in-house, but outside designers such as Flax and Oska are also featured. Bold, chunky accessories complement the earthy, arty look perfectly. 106 Cumberland St., Yorkville 416/968–0090 www.motionclothing.com Bay.
Neighbour
CLOTHING | Spare and sleek, this white-walled offshoot of a popular Vancouver boutique specializes in fresh, slightly whimsical menswear from cutting-edge brands: tropical shirts from Bode, slick staples from Acne, and updated workwear pieces by Margaret Howell. This is the place to snag extremely limited-run pieces from big fashion houses like Calvin Klein all the way down to small indie brands. 126A Davenport Rd., Yorkville 416/551–1085 shopneighbour.com Bay.
119 Corbò
CLOTHING | Both legendary and of-the-moment designers—Balenciaga, The Row, Jacquemus, and Stella McCartney, to name a few—are gathered here under one roof, along with some of the finest footwear and accessories in town. 119 Yorkville Ave., Yorkville 416/928–0954 www.119corbo.com Bay.
Over the Rainbow
CLOTHING | This boutique for all things denim has been around since the 1970s and carries every variety of cut and flare: the trendy, the classic, and the questionable from lines like Fidelity and Naked & Famous fill the shelves. 55 Bloor St. W, inside Manulife Centre, Yorkville 416/967–7448 www.rainbowjeans.com Bay.
Pink Tartan
CLOTHING | Ontario-born designer Kimberly Newport-Mimran opened this, her flagship store, in 2011 after selling her sophisticated sportswear in high-end shops around the globe. Expect tailored Oxford shirts, classic little black dresses, and crisp, snug-fitting trousers in expensive fabrics, as well as objets d’art, shoes, and accessories hand-picked by the designer. Snap a photo in front of the Instagram-famous pink door before you go. 77 Yorkville Ave., (entrance on Bellair St.), Yorkville 416/967–7700 www.pinktartan.com Bay.
Prada
CLOTHING | The avant-garde designs of this luxury Italian fashion house are overshadowed only by the gleaming interior of the store and the traffic-stopping window displays. 131 Bloor St. W., Yorkville 416/975–4300 www.prada.com Bay.
Roots
CLOTHING | The longtime favorite brand for leather jackets, varsity jackets, bags, and basics are crafted from tumbled leather and stamped with the country’s national icon (the beaver) at Roots. The homegrown company’s impressive flagship store showcases the more modern styling possibilities of their laid-back offerings. 80 Bloor St. W, Yorkville 416/323–3289 www.roots.com Bay.
Second Time Around
CLOTHING | If you’re after a designer handbag but can’t bear to pay retail, head to this consignment shop tucked inside a low-rise building. The selection is extensive without being overwhelming, and you might find that perfect, lightly used Fendi, Dior, or Celine at an accessible price. High-fashion preowned clothes, including Chanel, Gucci, Vuitton, and Vivienne Westwood, and loads of shoes are here, too. 70 Yorkville Ave., Unit 9, Yorkville 416/916–7669 secondtimearoundtoronto.com Bay.
Shan
CLOTHING | Montréal designer Chantal Levesque founded this label in 1985, and now stocks locations in more than 25 countries with her creative couture swimwear, swimwear accessories, and wraps. There’s a separate collection for men. 38 Avenue Rd., Yorkville 416/961–7426 www.shan.ca Bay or St. George.
DEPARTMENT STORES AND SHOPPING CENTERS
Holt Renfrew
DEPARTMENT STORES | This multilevel national retail specialty store is the style leader in Canada. On the ground floor are handbags, watches, cosmetics, and fragrances from London, New York, Paris, and Rome. Head to the upper floors for footwear and clothing from boldface designers (including Fendi, Burberry, and Gucci) as well as items from contemporary designers. Gents can head a few steps west to 100 Bloor Street West to browse Holt’s menswear collection at the two-floor Holt Renfrew Men. TIP → Concierge service and personal shoppers are available, but just browsing makes for a rich experience. 50 Bloor St. W, Yorkville 416/922–2333 www.holtrenfrew.com Bay.
Hudson’s Bay
DEPARTMENT STORES | The modern descendant of the Hudson’s Bay Company, which was chartered in 1670 to explore and trade in furs, the Bay (as it’s known among Canadians) carries mid-price clothing, furnishings, housewares, and cosmetics, including designer names and in-house lines. Another Bay, which shares its sprawling space with a Saks Fifth Avenue location, is located on Yonge Street, connected to Eaton Centre by a covered skywalk over Queen Street. 44 Bloor St. E, Yorkville 416/972–3333 www.thebay.com Bloor-Yonge.
Yorkville Village
SHOPPING CENTERS/MALLS | Formerly known as Hazelton Lanes, this small upscale shopping mall is home to fashion-forward TNT (short for The Next Trend); structured womenswear by Judith & Charles; Jacadi’s Parisian kidswear; and downtown Toronto’s only Whole Foods Market. 55 Avenue Rd., Yorkville 416/968–8600 www.yorkvillevillage.com Bay.
FOOD
McEwan
FOOD/CANDY | In a basement below Yonge and Bloor, this homegrown gourmet grocery store (a spinoff by the restaurant family that includes One and Bymark) caters to the well-to-do and the on-the-go. In the morning there are breakfast burritos, fresh pastries, and cold-pressed juices; at lunch, rows of Le Creuset Dutch ovens simmer with curries. There’s also a carving station with grass-fed beef and porchetta, a beautiful salad bar and prepared food station, and a huge selection of packaged foods that ranges from gourmet potato chips to luxurious splatter-painted chocolate eggs. 1 Bloor St. E, Yorkville 416/975–0808 Yonge-Bloor.
Pusateri’s
FOOD/CANDY | From humble beginnings as a Little Italy produce stand, Pusateri’s has grown into Toronto’s favorite high-end supermarket, with in-house prepared foods, local and imported delicacies, and desserts and breads from the city’s best bakers, among many other treats. 57 Yorkville Ave., Yorkville 416/925–0583 www.pusateris.com Bay.
HOME DECOR
Hollace Cluny
HOUSEHOLD ITEMS/FURNITURE | Though it’s off the main shopping drag, Hollace Cluny is a must-visit for modern design aficionados looking for that special piece. Along with classics from brands like Knoll, they carry a huge array of pieces from contemporary designers, with everything from ceramics to eye-popping statement lighting fixtures. 245 Davenport Rd., Yorkville 416/968–7894 www.hollacecluny.ca Closed weekends Bay.
William Ashley
HOUSEHOLD ITEMS/FURNITURE | The gleaming 12,000-square-foot flagship of this decades-old Toronto chinaware business carries an extensive collection of dishware patterns and crystal glasses that range from Wedgwood to Kate Spade to Waterford. They’re happy to pack and ship all over North America. Stop by the Teuscher of Switzerland chocolate boutique on the way out. 131 Bloor St. W, Yorkville 416/964–2900 www.williamashley.com Bay.
JEWELRY AND ACCESSORIES
Cartier
JEWELRY/ACCESSORIES | The Toronto location of this internationally renowned luxury jeweler caters to the city’s elite. The glass cases feature a good selection of the jewelry designer’s classic creations, including the triple-gold-band Trinity Ring, the striking nail-shape Juste Un Clou collection, and the diamond-studded Tortue Watch. 131 Bloor St. W, Yorkville 416/413–4929 www.cartier.com Bay.
Royal De Versailles
JEWELRY/ACCESSORIES | With a reputation as one of Toronto’s most luxurious jewelers, Royal De Versailles stocks some of the most striking and elegant pieces in town. Watch aficionados will be particularly impressed by their huge collection of high-end timepieces (they have one of the largest Rolex selections in Canada). 101 Bloor St. W, Yorkville 416/967–7201 www.royaldeversailles.com Bay.
Tiffany & Co.
JEWELRY/ACCESSORIES | Good things come in little blue boxes, and this two-floor Tiffany location is filled with them—namely, rows and rows of classic, wearable fine jewelry designs. As at other Tiffany locations, the sales staff has a reputation for being patient, helpful, and friendly. 150 Bloor St. W, Yorkville 416/921–3900 www.tiffany.ca Bay.
SHOES, HANDBAGS, AND LEATHER GOODS
Browns Shoes
SHOES/LUGGAGE/LEATHER GOODS | This Canadian chain of shoe stores carries a grab-bag of mid-tier and upmarket brands in a wide variety of styles. Along with familiar names like Badgley Mishka, Birkenstocks, Dr. Marten, and Jeffrey Campbell, you’ll find homegrown brands like La Canadienne (whose waterproof boots are the most stylish way to beat the Toronto slush) and Manitobah Mukluks. 110 Bloor St. W, Yorkville 416/920–1032 brownsshoes.com Bay.
SPAS
Novo Spa
SPA/BEAUTY | A perennial favorite among Toronto’s day-spa enthusiasts, this Yorkville hideaway offers massages (couples, prenatal), facials, manicures, pedicures, and various waxing treatments. The calming staff members always have soothing refreshments on hand. 66 Avenue Rd., Yorkville 416/926–9303 www.novospa.ca Bay.
Colorful rainbow flags fly high and proud in this vibrant neighborhood, just east of downtown. The area is energetic and boisterous any time of year, but absolutely frenetic during the annual Pride festival and parade in June. Given its long history, the area has evolved into a tight-knit, well-established community, with pharmacies, grocery stores, and dry cleaners rubbing shoulders with a mix of new and decades-old gay- and lesbian-centric nightspots. Glad Day, the world’s oldest LGBTQ bookstore, is a must-visit.
Sights
Barbara Hall Park
CITY PARK | FAMILY | This pocket-size park is pleasant enough during the day, but at night it comes alive with strings of rainbow-color lights that symbolize the LGBTQ community. There’s a mural of gay history on an adjacent building, and tucked away in one corner is the Toronto AIDS Memorial. 519 Church St., Church–Wellesley.
Restaurants
$$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | On the ground floor of the recently renovated Anndore House hotel, this sprawling spot’s open kitchen turns out varied fare like Middle Eastern mezes, pastas, and gorgeously plated desserts. Grilled meats are great here—especially the lamb burger—but vegetarian options abound. The weekend brunch menu lures in locals and hotel guests alike with shakshuka and lemon-ricotta pancakes. Known for: buzzy, loungelike atmosphere; grilled Mediterranean specialties; great weekend brunch. Average main: C$28 15 Charles St. E, Church–Wellesley 647/475–4436 www.constantineto.com Yonge-Bloor.
$$ | ECLECTIC | No late-night craving goes unsatisfied at this 24-hour eatery specializing in lighter fare. Soups like Moroccan or vegetarian chili and sandwiches like herbed chicken with honey mustard are comforting and filling. There are also simple wine, beer, and cocktail choices. Known for: socializing on the hidden rooftop patio; cozy atmosphere with lots of candles; home-style fare. Average main: C$15 7 Charles St. W, Church–Wellesley 416/928–9041 www.7westcafe.com Bloor-Yonge.
Hotels
$$$ | HOTEL | This hip boutique hotel above the popular restaurant Constantine caters to a young, plugged-in clientele with amenities like app-activated temperature control, an on-site barbershop, and record players in every room. Pros: great location between Yorkville and Church Street; good value for the area; beautiful common spaces. Cons: room design could feel more luxurious; walls are thin; in-room a/c units can be loud. Rooms from: C$280 15 Charles St. E, Church–Wellesley 416/924–1222 www.theanndorehouse.com 113 rooms No meals Yonge-Bloor.
The “Gay Village,” the “gayborhood,” or just plain old “Church and Wellesley”—whatever you call it, this strip of bars, restaurants, shops, and clubs is a fun, always-hopping hangout for the LGBTQ-plus crowd and their friends.
BARS
Boutique Bar
BARS/PUBS | In comparison to the raucous, glittering scene you’ll find nearby, Boutique Bar is a (relatively) low-key spot for a cocktail, whether you’re feeling like a classic negroni, a martini, or one of the house creations. If you can, grab a spot on the tiny front patio and watch the comings and goings along Church Street. DJs bring the party on weekends. 506 Church St., Church–Wellesley 647/705–0006 boutiquebar.ca Wellesley.
Woody’s
BARS/PUBS | A predominantly upscale crowd of men, mostly in their twenties to forties, frequents this cavernous pub where DJs mix every night. Weekly events include the Best Chest and Best Butt contests, which are hosted by some of the city’s most beloved drag queens. The exterior of Woody’s was used on the television show Queer as Folk. 467 Church St., Church–Wellesley 416/972–0887 www.woodystoronto.com Wellesley.
DANCE CLUBS
Crews & Tangos
BARS/PUBS | Downstairs is Crews, a gay and lesbian bar with a stage for karaoke or drag shows (depending on the night), a dance floor in back with a DJ spinning house beats, and a sizable back patio. Upstairs, Tangos has a bar and a small dance floor that gets packed with twenty- to thirtysomething guys and gals kicking it to old-school hip-hop and 1980s beats. The male–female ratio is surprisingly balanced and the drag shows are lots of fun. 508 Church St., Church–Wellesley 647/349–7469 crewsandtangos.com Wellesley.
THEATER
Buddies in Bad Times Theatre
THEATER | Canada’s largest queer theater company presents edgy plays and festivals, as well as specialty events like burlesque and stand-up. Pay What You Can tickets are available for select performances—if you want one, head to the box office at midday. 12 Alexander St., Church–Wellesley 416/975–8555 www.buddiesinbadtimes.com Wellesley.
BOOKS
Glad Day Bookshop
BOOKS/STATIONERY | Glad Day is the world’s oldest LGBTQ bookstore—no mean feat, especially in high-rent Toronto. Recently relocated to new digs on Church Street, the store is packed with shelves featuring the latest and greatest in queer voices from across Canada and beyond; those shelves are frequently rolled aside to host readings, events, and even dance parties. The bar serves both coffee and alcohol, and the kitchen turns out homey diner-style eats (which are particularly appreciated during weekend drag brunches). 499 Church St., Church–Wellesley 416/901–6600 gladdaybookshop.com Wellesley.
This posh residential neighborhood northeast of Yorkville has tree-lined curving roads (it’s one of the few neighborhoods to have escaped the city’s grid pattern), many small parks, and a jumble of oversized late-19th-century and early-20th-century houses in Edwardian, Victorian, Georgian, and Tudor styles. An intricate ravine system weaves through this picturesque corner of downtown, its woodsy contours lined with old-money and old-world majesty. The neighborhood is bounded by Yonge Street, the Don Valley Parkway, St. Clair Avenue East, and the Rosedale Ravine.
Restaurants
$$ | ECLECTIC | This fast-casual takeout spot is an offshoot of one of the city’s top catering companies—and though the salads and proteins here are produced in massive quantities, everything is handled with a deft, flavorful touch. Pick a combo size, then choose from the daily mix of multicultural offerings in the display case. Favorites include moist grilled salmon and marinated chicken, andouille sausage, mac and cheese, and tahini-cauliflower salad. Known for: quick service; rotating menu of takeout dishes; plenty of vegetarian-friendly options. Average main: C$13 1094 Yonge St., Rosedale 647/748–1094 orderpantry.com Rosedale.
$$ | ITALIAN | FAMILY | Local Italian mini-chain Terroni has several locations around the city but this one, with the ground floor Bar Centrale wine bar inspired by Italian train stations, is especially popular. Head upstairs to the bi-level Terroni, where you order locally beloved thin-crust pizzas, seafood spaghetti, and beef carpaccio, along with stunning views of the downtown skyline. Known for: excellent thin-crust pizzas; lively atmosphere; fun bar scene. Average main: C$19 1095 Yonge St., Rosedale 416/925–4020 terroni.com Summerhill.
CLASSICAL MUSIC
Toronto Mendelssohn Choir
MUSIC | This group of more than 120 choristers was formed in 1894 and performs major classical choral works at various venues, including the lovely Koerner Hall and Yorkminster Park Baptist Church at Yonge and St. Clair. The choir often performs with the Toronto Symphony Orchestra, including at its annual Christmas performance of Handel’s Messiah. Yorkminster Park Baptist Church, 1585 Yonge St., Rosedale 416/598–0422 www.tmchoir.org Spadina.
Activities
Rosedale Ravine
HIKING/WALKING | FAMILY | Though you might not expect it from one of the toniest areas in downtown Toronto, Rosedale is home to a lovely nature trail. It runs in a giant U shape, beginning on Heath Street East near Yonge and St. Clair (on the northern edge of Rosedale), swooping down to just east of Bloor and Sherbourne, then ending at picturesque Mount Pleasant Cemetery. It’s an easy stroll, also popular with runners and cyclists. Heath St. E, at Yonge, Rosedale toronto.ca/trails St. Clair.
Shopping
One of Toronto’s most exclusive neighborhoods, Rosedale has a strip of upscale antiques and home decor shops, as well as some other specialty shops.
ANTIQUES
Absolutely Inc
ANTIQUES/COLLECTIBLES | Curios, from glass fishing floats to hand-beaded animal sculptures, are sold at this fascinating interiors shop. You’ll also find an array of vintage jewelry, antique boxes made of materials ranging from marble to abalone, English campaign furniture, and French architects’ drafting tables. 1236 Yonge St., Rosedale 416/922–6784 www.absolutelyinc.com Rosedale.
Putti
ANTIQUES/COLLECTIBLES | This home decor shop is very romantic, and very turn-of-the-century. Everywhere you look, you’ll see antiques, reproduction furniture, and home accessories piled so high that they scrape the chandeliers. There’s an impressive array of French toiletries, as well as frilly frocks and fairy wings for children’s flights of fancy. 1104 Yonge St., Rosedale 416/972–7652 www.putti.ca Rosedale.
CLOTHING
Tuck Shop Trading Co.
CLOTHING |“Refined Canadiana” is the motto at this shop, which pairs cute, cheery clothing for men and women with home goods worthy of a hip Muskoka cottage. Tees, patterned swim trunks, and statement earrings sit alongside luxe scented candles and embroidered woven baskets. If any of Toronto’s neighborhoods have particularly captured your heart, grab one of the winter hats (or, as the locals call ’em, toques) from their house-made City of Neighbourhoods line. 1225 Yonge St., Rosedale 416/859–3566 tuckshopco.com Summerhill.
SHOES, HANDBAGS, AND LEATHER GOODS
Mephisto
SHOES/LUGGAGE/LEATHER GOODS | These French-made walking shoes have been around since the 1960s and are constructed entirely from natural materials. Passionate walkers swear by them and claim they never, ever wear out—even on cross-Europe treks. Styles, which include options for men and women, run the gamut from smart ankle boots to minimalist slides. 1177 Yonge St., Rosedale 416/968–7026 ca.mephisto.com Summerhill.
WINE
Summerhill LCBO
FOOD/CANDY | Once a stately railway station, this location of Ontario’s provincially owned chain of liquor stores is where vinophiles, scotch lovers, and other locals with a taste for the finer things go hunting for rare bottles. The store also frequently hosts tastings. TIP → Keep customs limits on alcohol purchases, and whether you’ll be checking a bag, in mind before you stock up. 10 Scrivener Sq., Rosedale 416/922–0403 lcbo.com Summerhill.
Mockingly named by outsiders for the cabbages that grew on tiny lawns and were cooked in nearly every house by early Irish settlers in the 1840s, the term is used with a combination of inverse pride and almost wistful irony today (as gentrification has increased real estate value here exponentially). It’s fun to stroll around and enjoy the architectural diversity of this funky residential area, and there are a few attractions of interest, too. The enclave extends roughly from Parliament Street on the west—about 1½ km (1 mile) due east of Yonge Street—to the Don River on the east, and from Bloor Street on the north to Shuter Street on the south.
Sights
Necropolis Cemetery
CEMETERY | This nonsectarian burial ground, established in 1850, is the final resting place for many of Toronto’s pioneers, including prominent turn-of-the-century black Canadian doctors, businessmen, and politicians. The cemetery’s chapel, gate, and gatehouse date from 1872; the buildings constitute one of the most attractive groupings of small Victorian-era structures in Toronto. 200 Winchester St., Cabbagetown 10-minute walk from Gerrard and Sumach bus stop 416/923–7911.
Riverdale Farm
FARM/RANCH | This spot once hosted the city’s main zoo, but it’s now home to a rural community representative of a late 19th-century farm. Permanent residents include horses, cows, sheep, goats, pigs, donkeys, ducks, geese, and chickens. While it’s not a petting zoo per se, kids get a real kick out of watching farmers go about their daily chores, which include feeding and bathing the animals. The adjacent playground has a wading pool. On Tuesday from mid-May to late October, there’s a great farmers’ market nearby in Riverdale Park. 201 Winchester St., Cabbagetown 416/392–6794 Free.
St. James Cemetery
CEMETERY | At the northeast corner of Parliament and Wellesley streets, this cemetery contains interesting burial monuments of many prominent politicians, business leaders, and families in Toronto. The small yellow-brick Gothic Chapel of St. James-the-Less has a handsome spire rising from the church nave and was built in 1861. This National Historical Site is one of the most beautiful churches in the country. 635 Parliament St., Cabbagetown www.stjamescemetery.ca.
Toronto Dance Theatre
DANCE | The oldest contemporary dance company in the city, TDT has created more than 100 original works since its beginnings in the 1960s, often using original scores by Canadian composers. Two or three pieces are performed each year in its home theater in Cabbagetown. 80 Winchester St., 1 block east of Parliament St., Cabbagetown 416/967–1365 www.tdt.org Castle Frank.
So many films are shot in Toronto (the city has posed as everywhere from Paris to Moscow) that it’s earned the nickname “Hollywood North.” The highlight of the cinematic year is the world-renowned Toronto International Film Festival.
North America’s third-largest film production center after L.A. and New York, Toronto keeps cameras rolling with its excellent local crews and production facilities, and plenty of filmmaker tax credits. It helps, too, that Toronto’s chameleonic streets easily impersonate other cities and time periods. Credits include: the Distillery District as Prohibition-era Chicago (Chicago), Casa Loma as the school for young mutants (X-Men), and the U of T campus as Harvard (Good Will Hunting). Spotting Toronto “tells” in films is fun, but locals get even more jazzed when the city represents itself for a change, as in 2010’s Scott Pilgrim vs. the World.
TORONTO INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL
Widely considered the most important film festival in the world after Cannes and Sundance, TIFF is open to the public and even the star-studded galas are accessible to the average joe. More than 300 of the latest works by great international directors and lesser-known independent-film directors from around the world are shown. Movies that premiere at TIFF have gone on to win Academy Awards and launch the careers of emerging actors and directors. In recent years, TIFF audiences have been among the first in the world to see La La Land, Slumdog Millionaire, and Juno, to mention just a few. The red carpet is rolled out and paparazzi get ready for big-budget, star-studded premieres, for which actors and directors may be on hand afterward for Q&As. Along with the serious documentaries, foreign films, and Oscar contenders, TIFF has fun with its Midnight Madness program, screening campy horror films, comedies, and action movies into the wee hours. TIFF Bell Lightbox, 350 King St. West, at John St., Harbourfront 416/599–2033, 888/258–8433 www.tiff.net.
DOING THE FESTIVAL
When: The 11-day festival begins in early September.
Where: Screenings are at movie theaters and concert halls throughout the city, as are ticket booths, but the festival HQ is the TIFF Bell Lightbox building, at 350 King St. W (at John St.).
Tickets: If you plan to see 10 or more films, consider a festival ticket package (these go on sale in July); you can choose screenings on the website. Individual tickets go on sale four days before the start of the festival. Advance ticket prices start at C$19 per regular film and C$29 for premium screenings. If you have your heart set on something specific and you don’t get a ticket, keep checking each morning at 8.
WHERE TO WATCH
Oddball series and theme nights: Revue, Royal
Documentaries: Bloor HotDocs Cinema
Pure cinephilia: TIFF Bell Lightbox
IMAX: Ontario Science Centre’s Shoppers Drug Mart OMNIMAX Theatre (Toronto’s only 70mm celluloid IMAX); Cineplex Cinemas Yonge-Dundas; Scotiabank Theatre, Cinesphere
3-D: Scotiabank Theatre; TIFF Bell Lightbox; Varsity and Varsity VIP; Cineplex Cinemas Yonge-Dundas (which also offers select films in 4DX, featuring motion seats and environmental effects like water and wind)
Summer films alfresco: Harbourfront Centre (Wednesday, free); TIFF in the Park (Wednesday, free); Kew Gardens (Wednesday, free), Yonge-Dundas Square (Tuesday, free). Most screenings start at sunset (usually around 8:30 or 9 pm) and run through July and August.
