Chapter 11: GREATER TORONTO

NEIGHBORHOOD SNAPSHOT

TOP REASONS TO GO

dingbat You Make Me Feel So Yonge: Starting at Eglinton Station, take a stroll along Yonge Street to experience one of the city’s most popular shopping and dining districts.
dingbat A Must for Animal Lovers: See more than 5,000 creatures in natural-looking habitats at the Toronto Zoo, one of the city’s most popular attractions.
dingbat Discover Japan Where You Least Expected It: From martial arts and traditional dance, you never know what you’re going to encounter at the Japanese Canadian Cultural Centre, filled with traditional gardens where you can see sakura blossoms in full bloom.
dingbat For the Love of Green Spaces: Head north or east of the city center and it won’t take long to reach the rolling hills and valleys of Don Mills or sylvan reserves at the Kortright Centre.
dingbat Take a Trip Back in Time: The Middle Eastern and Persian artifacts at the spectacular Aga Khan Museum transport you to another era.

GETTING HERE

Buses run from various downtown subway stations to Edwards Gardens, the Ontario Science Centre, the Toronto Zoo, and Black Creek Pioneer Village. You’ll need a car to visit the Kortright Centre for Conservation and the McMichael Canadian Art Collection. Canada’s Wonderland is most easily reached by car but is also accessible by TTC.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

You can explore each Greater Toronto sight independently or combine a couple of sights in one trip. The Ontario Science Centre and Edwards Gardens are very close together, for example, and would make a manageable day trip; and, if you’re driving from the city, you could visit Black Creek Pioneer Village and the Kortright Centre for Conservation on the way to the McMichael Canadian Art Collection. Reserve a full day to get the most bang for your buck at Canada’s Wonderland.

QUICK BITES

dingbat Milkcow. Asian desserts are all the rage in Toronto, so find out what everyone’s talking about at this Korean favorite that dishes up soft-serve ice cream layered with toppings like cotton candy, honeycomb, and jellybeans. E 2651 Yonge St., Yonge and Eglinton w milkcowcafe.ca m Eglinton
dingbat Pancer’s Original Deli. The legendary deli has been serving kosher-style kishkas, knishes, and oversize smoked-meat-on-rye sandwiches for four generations. E 3856 Bathurst St. North York w www.pancersoriginaldeli.com
dingbat Robo Sushi. Experience the future of food service at this all-you-can-eat Japanese joint where most items are brought to your table by real robots with storage compartments for bellies. E 865 York Mills Rd., Don Mills m Don Mills

You won’t get a full Toronto experience if you don’t tread far from the Harbourfront or the main drags like Queen and Bloor.

The Greater Toronto Area is what has helped the city earn its unofficial title of the “most multicultural city in the world.” To the north and particularly the east is where you’ll find the ethnic enclaves, sprawling parks, fascinating museums, and one-of-a-kind attractions that make the region even more intriguing. Most of these must-sees are accessible by public transportation, although a car would make the journey to some of the more far-flung destinations more convenient.

North Toronto

North Toronto encompasses Yonge Street between Eglinton Avenue—the neighborhood’s southern, more bold and youthful end, which has garnered the playful nickname “Yonge and Eligible”—and north to Lawrence Avenue, with its more refined restaurants and upscale boutiques. The streets to the east and west of Yonge Street are mainly residential, and at the eastern edge are major tourist attractions: the Ontario Science Centre, a never-ending source of entertainment for the young and young-at-heart; the regal Aga Khan Museum of Islamic Art; and Toronto Botanical Garden and Edwards Gardens, a phenomenal display of flowers and plants.

s Sights

dingbat Aga Khan Museum

MUSEUM | More than 1,000 pieces of Ismaili Muslim art from the collection of renowned philanthropist and religious leader Aga Khan are the focus of this museum. Here you’ll find Middle Eastern and Persian artifacts and inscriptions, many so ancient that they are only displayed for a few months at a time to preserve their lifespan. It’s worth making the trip for the stunning architecture, which includes a massive main building topped by a silver hexagonal dome and a park distinguished by a glass pyramid more intricate than the one at the Louvre. The museum’s mandate is strictly secular, but it’s hard not to have a spiritual moment staring into the central courtyard pond. Guided tours are available for C$10. E 77 Wynford Dr., North York P 416/646–4677 w agakhanmuseum.org A C$20, free Wed. 4–8. Parking C$10. C Closed Mon.

dingbat Japanese Canadian Cultural Centre

COLLEGE | FAMILY | Serving as a community center for Toronto’s Japanese community, as well as thousands of lovers of Japanese culture, this space sits amid beautiful traditional gardens. It has literally dozens of different classes in martial arts like Kendo and Aikido, visual arts like Bunka Shishu embroidery, dance classes, and cooking courses. Visiting art shows are frequently in rotation, as well as artist talks, film screenings, or full-fledged film festivals. E 6 Garamond Ct., North York P 416/441–2345 w jccc.on.ca.

Ontario Science Centre

MUSEUM | FAMILY | It has been called a museum of the 21st century, but it’s much more than that. Where else can you stand at the edge of a black hole or get creative with the physics of flight? Even the building itself is extraordinary: three linked pavilions float gracefully down the side of a ravine and overflow with exhibits that make space, technology, and communications fascinating. The 25,000-square-foot Weston Family Innovation Centre, rife with hands-on activities, is all about experience and problem solving. Younger visitors learn through play in KidSpark, a space specially designed for children eight and under to enjoy and explore. The Planetarium, Toronto’s only public planetarium, uses state-of-the-art technology to take participants on a trip around the galaxy. Demonstrations of papermaking, electricity, and more take place daily; check the schedule when you arrive. E 770 Don Mills Rd., at Eglinton Ave. E, North Toronto P 416/696–1000 w www.ontariosciencecentre.ca A C$22, parking C$10.

Toronto Botanical Garden and Edwards Gardens

GARDEN | FAMILY | The beautiful 17 contemporary botanical garden areas and adjacent estate garden (once owned by industrialist Rupert Edwards) flow into one of the city’s most visited ravines. Paths wind along colorful floral displays and exquisite rock gardens. There’s also a signposted “teaching garden” for kids to touch and learn about nature. Free general tours between May and early September depart at 2 on Tuesday, 6 on Thursday, and throughout the day on weekends. Refreshments are available from the Garden Café in the Barn. For a great ravine walk, head south through Wilket Creek Park and the winding Don River valley. After hours of walking (or biking or jogging) through almost uninterrupted park, you reach the southern tip of Taylor Creek Park on Victoria Park Avenue, just north of the Danforth. From here you can catch a subway back to your lodgings. E 777 Lawrence Ave. E, entrance at southwest corner of Leslie St. and Lawrence Ave. E, North Toronto P 416/397–1340, 416/397–4145 tours w www.torontobotanicalgarden.ca.

r Restaurants

Diwan at the Aga Khan Museum

$$$ | MIDDLE EASTERN | Much like the Aga Khan Museum, Diwan is an architectural wonder that incorporates walls, ceilings, and hanging lamps salvaged from a 19th-century Damascus merchant’s home. The menu reflects the museum’s mission by incorporating Middle Eastern, Indian, and Persian dishes, with seasonal meat, seafood, and vegetarian dishes. The use of top-notch (and local when possible) ingredients is paramount to executive chef Mark McEwan’s mandate. Known for: impressive dishes like sweet onion bhaji fritters and kale coconut sambol; eye-popping mix of a modern building and antique details; crisp service. D Average main: C$22 E Aga Khan Museum, 77 Wynford Dr., North York P 416/646–4670 w diwan.agakhanmuseum.org C Closed Mon., no dinner Thurs.–Tues.

Edo-ko

$$ | JAPANESE FUSION | FAMILY | Open in one form or another since the 1980s, this neighborhood eatery strives to capture authentic Japanese washoku-style cooking—think tempura, teriyaki, and sushi made with seafood imported from Tokyo’s prestigious Tsukiji Market and sushi rice and vinegar expertly made on the premises. Nabe hot pots and udon noodle bowls are a great way to warm up in the colder months. Known for: some of the area’s best sushi; devoted local following; lovely bar area. D Average main: C$16 E 429 Spadina Rd., Yonge and Eglinton P 416/482–8973 w www.edorestaurants.com m St. Clair West.

Pizza Banfi

$$ | ITALIAN | FAMILY | No matter what day or time, there’s usually a line at Pizza Banfi for two reasons: it doesn’t take reservations, and the classic Italian food is really good. While the decor is slightly cliché, with Renaissance-style wall paintings over light-color bricks, the pizzas are the real attraction. Thin-crust pies are tossed in full view of the appreciative crowd, then baked to perfection. Known for: one of the neighborhood’s favorites; generous servings of pasta; good-priced daily specials. D Average main: C$15 E 333B Lonsdale Rd., Yonge and Eglinton P 416/322–5231 C Closed Sun. m Eglinton West.

Greater Toronto

dingbat Zucca Trattoria

$$$ | ITALIAN | This classic Italian joint delivers the purest made-from-scratch Italian food in a modern, sleek, and friendly room. The wine list of more than 150 labels, all Italian varieties, is beautifully paired with the pasta, all handmade and hand-rolled. In addition to meat dishes like braised rabbit and muscovy duck, grilled fish is a specialty. Finish your night with an Amaretto crème caramel. Known for: seafood dishes like squid-ink pasta and grilled octopus; dining room is always full, so book in advance; complimentary chickpea bread. D Average main: C$30 E 2150 Yonge St., Yonge and Eglinton P 416/488–5774 w www.zuccatrattoria.com C No lunch m Eglinton.

b Shopping

CLOTHING

Hatley Boutique

CLOTHING | FAMILY | This company began as a cottage business in rural Québec more than 25 years ago with a line of aprons depicting cute farm animals. Now this mainly children’s boutique is stocked with quirky, nature-inspired clothing covered in insects, animals, trees, and flowers inspired by the Canadian wilderness. E 2648 Yonge St., at Craighurst Ave., Yonge and Eglinton P 416/486–4141 w www.hatley.com m Lawrence or Eglinton.

OUTDOOR EQUIPMENT

Sporting Life

SPORTING GOODS | The first off the mark with the latest sportswear trends, this is the place to get hip, outdoorsy labels like Moncler, Canada Goose, and Dale of Norway—or to snag ski and snowboard gear, and poll the staff for advice on where to use it. E 2665 Yonge St., north of Eglinton Ave., Yonge and Eglinton P 416/485–1611 w www.sportinglife.ca m Eglinton.

Northern and Eastern Suburbs

Toronto is rich in culture, even beyond the city limits with pockets accessible deep in the GTA (Greater Toronto Area). The McMichael Canadian Art Collection, in the quaint suburb of Kleinburg, houses the stellar collection of Group of Seven pieces. Just minutes outside of downtown Toronto, Black Creek Pioneer Village is a living-history museum that is extremely kid-friendly. Nearby is the enormous theme park, Canada’s Wonderland. The sprawling Toronto Zoo, set in the beautiful Rouge River Valley, is the perfect destination for a day trip, as is the Kortright Centre for Conservation…if you’ve got wheels.

s Sights

Black Creek Pioneer Village

MUSEUM VILLAGE | FAMILY | Less than a half-hour drive from downtown is this mid-19th-century living-history-museum village that makes you feel as though you’ve gone through a time warp. Black Creek Pioneer Village is a collection of 40 buildings from the 19th century, including a town hall, a weaver’s shop, a printing shop, a blacksmith’s shop, and a one-room schoolhouse. The mill dates from the 1840s and has a massive wooden waterwheel that can grind up to a hundred barrels of flour a day. As people in period costumes go about the daily routine of mid-19th-century Ontario life,they explain what they’re doing and answer questions. Visitors can see farm animals; take wagon rides, Victorian dance classes, and 19th-century baseball lessons; and explore a hands-on discovery center. E 1000 Murray Ross Pkwy., near intersection of Jane St. and Steeles Ave., North York P 416/736–1733 w www.blackcreek.ca A C$15, parking C$7 C Closed Jan.–Apr.

Canada’s Wonderland

AMUSEMENT PARK/WATER PARK | FAMILY | Canada’s first theme park, filled with more than 200 games, rides, restaurants, and shops, includes favorite attractions like KidZville, home of Snoopy, Charlie Brown, and the rest of the Peanuts gang; Windseeker, which features 32 301-foot swings; and Skyhawk, where riders take control of their own cockpit. But Wonderland isn’t just for the smallest members of the family; the Bat roller coaster takes riders forward, and then back, through stomach-churning corkscrews and loops. Bring swim gear to take advantage of Splash Works, the 20-acre on-site water park. dingbat TIP → Order tickets online in advance for discount prices. E 9580 Jane St., Vaughan P 905/832–7000, 905/832–8131 w www.canadaswonderland.com A C$67 C Closed Nov.–late May and weekdays in Sept. and Oct.

Kortright Centre for Conservation

NATURE PRESERVE | Only 10 minutes north of the city, this delightful conservation center has more than 16 km (10 miles) of hiking trails through forest, meadow, and marshland, as well as a Bee Space where kids can see them up close and taste their honey, and an Innovation Trail that demonstrates how technology can reduce our impact on the wild. In the magnificent woods there have been sightings of foxes, coyotes, rabbits, deer, and a wide array of birds. Seasonal events include a spring sugar bush maple syrup festival and a honey harvest festival. To get here, drive 3 km (2 miles) north along Highway 400, exit west at Major Mackenzie Drive, and continue south 1 km (½ mile) on Pine Valley Drive to the gate. E 9550 Pine Valley Dr., Woodbridge P 905/832–2289 w www.kortright.org A From C$9, parking C$4 on weekends.

McMichael Canadian Art Collection

MUSEUM | On 100 acres of lovely woodland in Kleinburg, 30 km (19 miles) northwest of downtown, the McMichael is the only major gallery in the country with the mandate to collect exclusively Canadian art. The museum holds impressive works by Tom Thomson, Emily Carr, and the Group of Seven landscape painters, as well as their early-20th-century contemporaries. These artists were inspired by the wilderness and sought to capture it in bold, original styles. First Nations art and prints, drawings, and sculpture by Inuit artists are well represented. Strategically placed windows help you appreciate the scenery as you view art that took its inspiration from the vast outdoors. Inside, wood walls and a fireplace set a country mood. Free guided tours are offered from Wednesday to Sunday at 12:30 and 2. E 10365 Islington Ave., west of Hwy. 400 and north of Major Mackenzie Dr., Kleinburg P 905/893–1121 w www.mcmichael.com A C$18, parking C$7.

Toronto Zoo

ZOO | FAMILY | With terrain ranging from river valley to dense forest, the Rouge Valley was an inspired choice of site for this 710-acre zoo in which 5,000 different mammals, birds, reptiles, and fish are grouped according to their natural habitats. Enclosed, climate-controlled pavilions have botanical exhibits, such as the Africa pavilion’s giant baobab tree. Daily activities might include chats with animal keepers and animal and bird demonstrations. An “Around the World Tour” takes approximately three hours and includes the Africa, Americas, Australasia, Indo-Malayan, and Canadian Domain pavilions. From late April through early September, the Zoomobile can take you through the outdoor exhibit area. The African Savanna is the country’s finest walking safari, a dynamic reproduction that brings rare and beautiful animals and distinctive geological landscapes to the city’s doorstep. Reserve ahead and you can dine in the Savanna’s Safari Lodge and camp overnight in the Serengeti Bush Camp. E Meadowvale Rd., Exit 389 off Hwy. 401, Scarborough P 416/392–5929, 416/392–5947 for Serengeti Bush Camp reservations w www.torontozoo.com A C$28, parking C$10 C Closed Jan.–Apr.

Wet ’n’ Wild Toronto

AMUSEMENT PARK/WATER PARK | FAMILY | The largest park of its kind in Canada, Wet ’n’ Wild has huge waterslides, a lazy river, giant outdoor hot tubs, a fantastic wave pool, and Bear Footin’ Bay, a delightful area for younger children to splash around in. If water’s not your thing, splurge on a group cabana, hang out at the Coconut Cove Bar, or go for a ziplining experience through the trees. E 7855 Finch Ave. W, off Hwy. 427, Brampton P 416/369–0123 w www.wetnwildtoronto.com A C$45, parking C$15.

Pearson International Airport Area

If you have an early-morning departure or late-night arrival at Pearson International Airport, staying nearby might be the best option, considering the drive from downtown Toronto can take up to two hours when traffic is at its worst.

h Hotels

Alt Hotel Pearson

$$ | HOTEL | Not your average airport hotel, this hip boutique lodging offers plush digs at affordable prices. Pros: minutes from all airport terminals; rooms have lots of high-tech touches; modern and minimalist decor. Cons: some noise from hallways; minimal breakfast service; location on the highway. D Rooms from: C$169 E 6080 Viscount Rd., Mississauga P 905/362–4337, 855/855–6080 w www.althotels.com/en/torontoairport a 153 rooms X No meals.

Sandman Signature Toronto Airport

$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | Reasonable prices, an indoor swimming pool and hot tub, and quiet, modern rooms are the advantages of this property just down the road from Pearson International Airport. Pros: roomy fitness center; excellent service; free Internet access. Cons: restaurant gets extremely busy; poll area feels a bit closed in; some rooms need a refresh. D Rooms from: C$159 E 55 Reading Ct., Mississauga P 416/798–8840 w www.sandmanhotels.com a 256 rooms X No meals.

Sheraton Gateway Hotel

$$$ | HOTEL | For quick layovers, it’s hard to beat the location of this chain hotel right inside the main terminal of Pearson International Airport. Pros: you can’t get closer to your gate than this; totally soundproof rooms; attractive restaurant. Cons: fitness center is on the small side; pricey compared to nearby options; some dated furnishings. D Rooms from: C$264 E Terminal 3, Toronto AMF, Mississauga P 905/672–7000 w www.starwoodhotels.com a 474 rooms X No meals.