ONE 
The golf destinations in this chapter are not necessarily off the beaten path, and some aren’t really all that hidden anymore. But the destinations here are often overlooked, especially by golfers who know little about resorts outside their region. A golfer in North Carolina knows all too well about the quality of Pine Needles and Mid Pines and knows all about Pebble Beach, but a golfer in California probably knows very little about Pine Needles and Mid Pines.
The selections here are not the behemoths of the golf resorts but places where the golf is often just as good and the setting more regional and even, dare I say it, a touch more intimate. The big, historic, world-renowned resorts are fun, and each is wonderful and epic in its own way. But the hidden gems, while lacking certain amenities and fame, are often perfect spots for those who are looking for golf in a more relaxed and low-key setting.
ONE PINE NEEDLES LODGE & GOLF CLUB
MID PINES INN & GOLF CLUB
SOUTHERN PINES, NORTH CAROLINA
910.692.7111 OR 910.692.2114
WWW.PINENEEDLES-MIDPINES.COM
Built in the 1920s, Mid Pines and Pine Needles are first cousins and, in fact, reside right across the road from each other about five miles from Pinehurst Resort. Mid Pines has had different owners over the years, but Pine Needles has had the same owners—the Bell family—for several decades. When, about ten years ago, the matriarch of the Bells, Peggy Kirk Bell, had the opportunity to purchase Mid Pines, she jumped at the chance. So now Mid Pines and Pine Needles are actually related, and you can enjoy both as part of a package.
Both locations have wonderful Donald Ross courses that the great golf course architect personally supervised. They are different courses in many ways, and their adjuncts differ, but they offer the same level and quality of golf and relaxation throughout. Both have wonderful settings for the game, and the service is more familial than corporate. As soon as you set foot on either property, you feel like you are in someone’s home—and for all intents and purposes, you are!
After a successful restoration, Pine Needles is a charming course that has now hosted the U.S. Women’s Open three times. Thankfully, when you play the course, it will not be set up like it was for these events: the rough will not be as long, the bunkers not as steep, and hole locations not so demonic. As a result, Pine Needles is a course that every intelligent golfer can enjoy. It has many of the Ross features often found in the area, including strategically placed fairway bunkers and steep slopes at the edges of some greens. But the angles are not so severe at Pine Needles and the test not as tortuous as the one found just up Midland Road at Pinehurst No. 2. The better golfer will feel that par is attainable on just about every hole, while the average golfer will not card a lot of really big numbers. That’s true until the par-5 fifteenth, where the course finally bears some serious teeth. The eighteenth hole, tumbling down to the narrow green, is one of the best closers in North Carolina.
While Pine Needles is the predictable and well-mannered daughter who finishes high school with good grades and graduates from college on time, Mid Pines is the wild child, the unpredictable and moody cousin who would do anything at any time. Narrower, quirkier, and tougher on and around the greens, Mid Pines is the course where a good golfer looks at the card and thinks that it will be a relatively easy morning yet often leaves with a black eye and bruised ego. That’s because Mid Pines has some difficult, difficult holes where it’s easy to get out of position. The par-3 second is a mid-iron to a green that seems to want to repel anything and everything. The par-4 fourth is almost comically short, but the back section of the green is minute and anything right of the green will trickle annoyingly down a blind cliff toward some condos. And the next hole, a short-ish par-5, has a pond placed in the most annoying spot possible. This goes on until you finally helicopter a club into a loblolly pine. There are places around the greens where even Dave Pelz, the short-game wizard, would feel totally bamboozled.
The accommodations are different but stately and old-fashioned. Mid Pines has a beautiful hotel that provides the backdrop for the fine eighteenth hole. The floorboards squeak and bend, but that’s part of the price of admission. Pine Needles has more of a lodge feel, with many of the rooms overlooking the practice area and first hole. Mid Pines has a fine restaurant, where you will need a jacket and tie. Pine Needles is less formal, and the lunchtime buffet featuring the best of serious Southern cooking is not to be missed; also check out the unique sunken bar. Whereas the range at Mid Pines is middling at best, the practice facilities at Pine Needles are among the most extensive in the United States. The excellent school hosts “Golfaris,” multiday schools perfect for the intelligent golfer aspiring to better days.
You could spend more than a month exploring all the wonderful golf in and around the Pinehurst area, but at the end of the month, you’ll probably remember Mid Pines and Pine Needles as the most relaxed and traditional environment for the game in the entire region. The moment you walk into Pine Needles or Mid Pines, you will feel right at home. And you will always feel that way.
TWO BAY HILL CLUB & LODGE
ORLANDO, FLORIDA
888.422.9445
WWW.BAYHILL.COM
There’s not exactly a paucity of golf resorts in central Florida, and each has to work hard to separate itself from the crowd. Bay Hill maintains its stature through its association with Arnold Palmer and its yearly appearance on the PGA Tour. So calling Bay Hill “hidden” is totally inaccurate. But calling it a “gem” is precisely correct.
Located southwest of downtown Orlando, Bay Hill has one course and a seventy-room lodge where nonmembers can stay and enjoy the use of the club’s ample facilities. So it’s more of a club where members have overnight guests than a resort—which is part of its charm. Bay Hill is very much Arnold Palmer’s home, and there’s a strong chance you will run into “the King” either on the golf course or enjoying a meal in the clubhouse. But be warned, the great man is keen that people not wear hats inside—especially male golfers. At the right time (not in the middle of his main course), it’s entirely appropriate to introduce yourself, but the intelligent golfer understands that begging for an autograph would not be sensible.
The golf course, which Palmer designed, is serious stuff and, in many ways, mirrors Palmer’s charging go-for-broke style that he employed so well when he was at the top of his game. The eighteenth is the most famous hole at Bay Hill, but the hole that most closely exemplifies the Bay Hill style is the par-5 sixth, which curves around a lake, endlessly tempting the big hitter. Or maybe it’s the par-3 seventeenth, a massive 219-yard hole almost entirely over water to an exposed green.
Orlando is an energetic and curious city seemingly set in the middle of swamplands. It’s a world destination but also a winter home for many who are there to relax. The city has some garishness, some neon, and some flash and sizzle. It also has some very private enclaves that few get to visit. Bay Hill is one of these, but it happens to have a sumptuous lodge for those of us who relish the thought of being a member of such an enclave for a few days.
THREE THE GLENEAGLES HOTEL
AUCHTERARDER, PERTHSHIRE, SCOTLAND
0800 389 3737 (UK) OR 866.881.9525 (USA)
WWW.GLENEAGLES.COM
In Scotland, Gleneagles is hardly a hidden gem. It’s one of the country’s largest and most famous hotels. Yet far too many golfers from North America who visit Scotland bypass Gleneagles in their frantic rush to discover all things coastal and linksy. In a time-constrained visit, missing Gleneagles is understandable, but if you have some time, a two- or three-day respite there is almost mandatory, especially if you want a taste of Scotland’s highlands, or at least its uplands. If you’re looking for the perfect place to recover from jet lag, look no further than Gleneagles.
The hotel is a former country estate set on 850 acres and looks more like a French château than a Scottish nobleman’s home. It opened in the 1920s and has a storied history. It’s one of the largest hotels in Scotland, with 232 well-appointed rooms that, stylistically, are relatively modern. The Automobile Association, sort of the equivalent to AAA in North America, has awarded Gleneagles the highest possible rating, five red stars.
Although it’s called a hotel, Gleneagles is essentially a resort but with a country sports twist. Hunting, called shooting in the United Kingdom, is a sport here, as are falconry and gundog training. You can also enjoy off-road driving, fly fishing, and numerous other activities, including simply lounging around in the spa.
The golf at Gleneagles is exceptional. There are three courses: the King’s, the Queen’s, and the PGA Centenary Course that will host the Ryder Cup in 2014. Jack Nicklaus designed the latter. The King’s Course dates to 1919 and is a fine example of excellent design from “the Golden Age” of golf course architecture. The Queen’s Course is a charming course and a wonderful walk through woodlands and moor. It’s not links golf but moorland golf on uplands with sweeping views of the surrounding country-side—in this case the beginning of the highlands. On a clear day, the views are superb.
Those who love to eat game will be in heaven at Gleneagles, where the menu of the flagship restaurant features pigeon, duck, and venison. If you’re a first-time visitor to Gleneagles, you have to try haggis, which is essentially sheep’s innards cooked for about three hours in a sheep’s stomach then inserted into a casing. Think of the best sausage you have ever had and then square it, and you have haggis. If it’s not to your liking, the wine cellar at Gleneagles will make up for any shortcomings. The hotel has no fewer than seven sommeliers.
If you want a taste of the highlands of Scotland but in a luxurious setting, Gleneagles is your place. It’s also an excellent choice for the intelligent golfer who enjoys hunting and fishing as much as golf. But if you want to hunt—sorry, shoot—grouse and other upland game birds, remember that the season begins in mid-August, the “Glorious Twelfth” to be precise; it’s the beginning of September for pheasant. If you have hunted quail, duck, and even pheasant in North America, you owe it to yourself, at least once in your lifetime, to experience driven grouse shooting. It’s almost as good as golf.
FOUR KEYSTONE RESORT
KEYSTONE, COLORADO
877.753.9786 OR 970.496.4500
WWW.KEYSTONERESORT.COM
When you think Keystone, you likely think about snow—specifically the ski resort near the Continental Divide. In the winter, Keystone is one of Colorado’s top skiing destinations. But once the snow has melted away and the mud of postseason has turned into beautiful grassy and wooded valleys (usually around mid-June), Keystone becomes a different sort of playground. One of the best places in the Rockies to access and enjoy this playground is the Keystone Lodge and Spa.
The ski destinations in this part of Colorado are slightly higher than other locations, and the two golf courses affiliated with Keystone Lodge are up around 9,000 feet. This is great news for shorter hitters since the ball will travel significantly farther. Lodge guests have access to two courses, Keystone Ranch and the River Course at Keystone.
Keystone Ranch is routed through what used to be a ranch and lettuce farm and thus has a wider aspect than many mountain courses; think of it as a high meadow course with native sagebrush bordering many of the holes. The ranch houses the clubhouse and a restaurant that serves meals with a Western theme. The River Course has more elevation changes; wetlands, the Snake River, and even mountain biking paths are the hazards. On the back nine, the course gains even more elevation and offers excellent views of Gore Range and the Continental Divide. The sixteenth, a 509-yard par-4, features a 200-foot drop from tee to fairway. On either course, it’s likely that you’ll encounter wildlife at any time.
Aside from the remarkable golf, Keystone Lodge offers a wide range of outdoor-based activities, from mountain biking to hiking to yoga, and you can even take chairlift rides up to the top of the Keystone ski area. Accommodations at the property provide a pleasant combination of rusticity and comfort; the best of the 152 rooms and suites are the loft suites, which feature a living room downstairs and a plush bedroom upstairs via a spiral staircase. Keystone Lodge is at its busiest deep into ski season, but it’s wonderful in the summer, and the two golf courses should whet the appetite of any golfer.
FIVE GARLAND LODGE & RESORT
LEWISTON, MICHIGAN
877.442.7526
WWW.GARLANDUSA.COM
Located in the heart of Michigan’s Lower Peninsula in Lewiston, Garland describes itself as “Michigan’s Most Beautiful Resort.” It’s tough to argue with the tag line. Its beautiful woodlands are replete with streams, pines, and lakes, the setting is pristine, and there’s more than enough space—approximately 3,500 acres—to help you feel like you are totally away from it all.
All four courses start from the golf shop, and each is unique enough to provide a golf group with more than enough variety over a four-day, five-night trip. The Fountains Course, which opened in 1995, has a rare combination of holes—six par-5s, six par-4s, and six par-3s—and nine of the holes have water. The Swampfire is a more serious affair, with water on all but four holes, most of which require your full attention from tee to green. The Reflections is one of the favorites at Garland, perhaps because it’s the shortest and most picturesque of the four. But it still boasts some long and muscular holes, including the par-5 fifth that’s 555 yards from the back tees.
The Monarch Course is one of Michigan’s longest golf courses at almost 7,200 yards; ironically, it’s one of the best for women because the forward tees are set well forward at 4,904 yards. Bald eagles nest near the eleventh hole. The course has its own version of Augusta National’s “Amen Corner,” beginning with a 581-yard par-5 after the turn. For classic and enjoyable Michigan resort golf, it’s almost impossible to beat Garland, and there aren’t many resorts with four or more courses in the Midwest.
Garland is a year-round resort with plenty to keep everyone busy in winter when the courses are usually under snow. Hildegard’s Dining Room is the main restaurant at Garland, although Herman’s Grill offers the same menu, is less formal, and has late-night options. The menu at Hildegard’s includes a broad selection of locally caught fresh fish. Accommodations at Garland vary from log cabins to golf cottages. The resort has its own airport for private planes; otherwise, it’s an hour-and-a-half trip from either Traverse City Airport or Alpena Airport. If there’s one reason that people make the effort to get to Garland, it’s the tranquility and sheer beauty of the four golf courses, which are also very well-maintained.
SIX ESEEOLA LODGE
LINVILLE, NORTH CAROLINA
800.742.6717
WWW.ESEEOLA.COM
Eseeola Lodge is a quaint and small inn with just twenty-four rooms and suites in Linville, which is primarily a second-home retreat for families from Charlotte, Greensboro, and Winston-Salem. Linville is in the Blue Ridge Mountains near Boone in the northeastern part of North Carolina’s mountains. Guests at Eseeola can access the exclusive Linville Golf Club, an early and relatively unmolested Donald Ross design that serious fly fishermen will absolutely hate: rainbow trout the size of sharks swim freely in the many streams that crisscross this wonderfully peaceful layout. Sadly, fishing is strictly forbidden at Linville, as is walking—more on that later.
For those seeking an alternative to the larger resorts—a fine bed and breakfast with an exquisite golf course—the Eseeola Lodge is the perfect fit. And unlike a typical bed and breakfast in the mountains, the Eseeola has a fine restaurant; Pan-seared Rainbow Trout in a Citrus Butter Sauce is a staple on the menu. The rooms are elegant and comfortable, and you could easily spend an entire day relaxing right there without heading to one of the common areas.
Linville Golf Club is near the site of the very first golf course in North Carolina, and the course has the look and feel of a museum piece. Donald Ross built it in 1924 and clearly left the land mostly intact, simply building tees and green sites in logical spots along the valley floor. One result of his approach is the par-4 third hole, 472 yards and one of the best that Ross ever designed. In fact, it’s one of the best holes in the United States. It plays downhill to a sloping fairway then uphill to a green set on a small knoll. It’s an excellent example of letting the land lead the architect. The fairways are bentgrass, but the greens are Poa annua, and any putt above the hole can be nightmarish. Another piece of advice: don’t fly the greens. Getting up and down from behind one of the putting surfaces is pretty much impossible. Linville would be a great golf course to walk, but the club, at least in the past, has not been especially walker-friendly.
Many who visit the Eseeola Lodge are weekenders up from the “plains” to escape the summer heat. But the golf at Linville is easily good enough to warrant a longer stay. Late September and October are also excellent times to visit Eseeola.
SEVEN SILVERADO RESORT
NAPA, CALIFORNIA
800.532.0500
WWW.SILVERADORESORT.COM
For those who think that a perfect vacation or weekend break would include golf and the wonderful wines of the Napa valley, Silverado is an excellent location. The resort sits on 1,200 acres, and its main building looks like a winemaker’s retreat tucked in the valley between the attractive hills. The one-bedroom Fireplace Suite is the way to go at Silverado; it’s the perfect place to congregate before heading to dinner with friends in one of the resort’s three eateries, all of which offer excellent food prepared mostly with local produce and meats. And of course, your wine list will be replete with locally produced wines.
The two Robert Trent Jones Jr. courses provide an excellent complement to the resort and spa. The longer North Course is perhaps the more forgiving of the two courses, but the shorter South Course is a lot of fun as well. Both offer a taste of the beautiful Napa valley scenery. Napa is a popular spot with tourists and visitors from all over the world who come for tours of the vineyards and wineries—the local château, if you will. Why not combine it with some golf?
EIGHT BARTON CREEK RESORT & SPA
AUSTIN, TEXAS
866.572.7369 OR 512.329.4000
WWW.BARTONCREEK.COM
A Dallas-based golf teacher once told me that there weren’t many good golf courses in Texas due to the topography. For the most part, he is right—until you get into Texas Hill Country around Austin. Here, the land has much more undulation, and golf course architects have more latitude to build interesting golf holes. One of the best ways to enjoy the remarkable golf in this area is at Barton Creek Resort and Spa, a AAA Four-Diamond property set on 4,000 acres of secluded property west of downtown Austin. The resort has 300 rooms, each with a view of the surrounding hills. There’s also an impressive spa, four eateries on-site, and a children’s program.
Once you’ve had enough fun at Barton Creek’s miniature golf course, you’ll want to head to the real thing. There are four courses at Barton Creek, plus the Chuck Cook Golf Academy. There are two Tom Fazio courses, the Fazio Foothills and the Fazio Canyons. The Arnold Palmer Lakeside course has excellent views of Lake Travis. And one of the first collaborations between Bill Coore and Ben Crenshaw is here—the Crenshaw Cliffside Course.
Most intelligent golfers in Texas are used to flattish courses with small ponds and lakes and low trees. At Barton Creek, the land has a rugged tinge for sure, but the undulations and the hazards make for serious golf often requiring heroic shots—at times, you are just going to have to hit a shot with virtually no bailout, usually over a yawning chasm. It’s heaven or hell golf. Miss the shot and you’ll be reaching into your pocket for a new ball, but make the shot and you’ll be talking about it over dinner. Thus golf at Barton Creek is some of the most exciting and heart-pounding you will experience. Especially in Texas.
In the evenings, you can try one of the fine restaurants on-site or go downtown for the one thing that has made Austin so famous: live music.
NINE BALLANTYNE HOTEL & LODGE
CHARLOTTE, NORTH CAROLINA
888.627.8048 OR 704.248.4000
WWW.BALLANTYNERESORT.COM
Opened in 2001, Ballantyne Resort is a relative newcomer compared to some of the other hidden gems in this chapter. However, the resort has already garnered some remarkable accolades and awards, including Mobil Four-Star status. Even its spa has been highly ranked by Conde Nast Johansens. The golf course, which opened before the main resort hotel, was named the “Best New Golf Course in North Carolina” by North Carolina Magazine. Ballantyne Resort also boasts the Dana Rader Golf School (top twenty-five in the United States), the lodge, the main resort hotel, the Gallery Restaurant, and tennis. The rooms are well-appointed, but it’s the sumptuous bathrooms that guests enjoy the most: each room includes a massive tub that’s perfect for a long soak.
Much of the weekday business is corporate oriented, but on weekends the resort is a wonderful getaway. Getting to the resort is remarkably easy; it’s just fifteen minutes from Charlotte/Douglas International Airport, which has more than 500 flights a day. If you don’t want to travel to some of the difficult-to-get- to resorts but still want resort-style relaxation and excellent golf and golf instruction, Ballantyne Resort is a great choice.
The nine hidden gems in this chapter represent just a sampling of the smaller, wonderful, and usually less-talked-about golf destinations. Part of the enjoyment of the game comes from exploration and discovery. While it’s certainly tempting to find a favorite course and make it a regular destination, every golfer should make an effort to visit a new spot at least once every two years. My hope is that this chapter inspires you to find new places and meet new golfers.