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Chapter 4: Ducks and Geese

Duck and Goose Glossary

Breed: A group with common ancestors and characteristics that distinguish the group. Often, the breeds need to be maintained through selective breeding.

Broody: Term used for hens sitting on a clutch of eggs in a nest. A broody hen will stop laying eggs to incubate the eggs and will seldom leave the nest until the eggs hatch.

Class: A smaller category of a type of birds. Often, the name will relate to the origin of a bird.

Down: Young birds are born with this fluffy hair that does not protect them like feathers. The feathers grow in during the first few weeks of life.

Drake: A male duck. Mature drakes (except for the Muscovy breed) can be differentiated from the duck by curled tail feathers.

Duck: A female duck and the general term for the species

Duckling: A young duck

Gander: A male goose

Goose: A female goose and general term for the species

Gosling: A young goose

Husbandry: The agricultural practice of breeding and raising livestock

Hybrid: The offspring of genetically dissimilar parents

Hygrometer: An instrument used to measure humidity. With birds, a hygrometer is used to measure the humidity inside an egg incubator.

Farm: Any operation that sells at least $1,000 of agricultural commodities or that would have sold that amount of produce under normal circumstances

Feed mill: A place where feed for animals is produced for commercial use

Flighty: The tendency of a particular breed of bird to be excitable and nervous

Free-range: When birds are allowed to graze rather than being raised in confinement

Grain elevator: A place where farmers store and sell their grain

Hatchery: A place where eggs are hatched

Molt: An annual process in which a bird loses its feathers and replaces them with new feathers

Nesting Box: A box in a pen where females can lay their eggs

Pen: A farm building for housing poultry, also called a coop. They can be portable as well.

Pinfeathers: Also called blood feathers, these feathers contain a blood vein and if pulled will cause a bird to bleed.

Variety: In birds, this will be a unique characteristic that occurs in a certain branch of a specific breed. An example would be different feather coloring or a plume of feathers on top of the head.

History of Ducks and Geese

Ducks are closely related to swans and geese; in fact, biologists have had difficulty classifying the three species into different categories. The three species belong to the biological family Anatidae, meaning birds that swim, float on the surface of the water, and (in some birds) dive in water for food. For the most part, the birds in this group eat plants and grains and are monogamous (one mate) breeders under natural conditions.

It is no wonder biologists have trouble classifying the three species, as there are more than 100 species of wild ducks alone. Despite the large number of wild ducks, all domestic ducks, except for the Muscovy duck, were domesticated from the wild Mallard. The Mallard belongs to a group of wild ducks called dabblers. This describes their feeding habit of dabbing their bill in the water to filter food particles from the water. Mallards have an appetite for grasses, insects, bugs, worms, small fish, toads, snails, frogs, and even snakes.

The Chinese are credited with first domesticating wild Mallards around 2000 B.C., but ducks also were domesticated around the same time in the Middle East. Ducks were first domesticated for meat and egg use, although later ducks were used to control pests in rice paddies. Even today, people will herd flocks of ducks to the rice paddies. In the field, the ducks feast on insects, snails, slugs, small reptiles, and waste rice; they provide great pest control without using harsh chemicals.

The Muscovy duck had a far different history. The Muscovy is actually a perching duck and will roost and nest in trees. They are a native of Central and South America. It is thought they were domesticated in pre-Inca Peru to be used as pets. The Muscovy is a carnivorous duck that eats small mammals, snakes, frogs, flies, and other insects. They can grow to be larger than most breeds of duck. In the United States, many people keep this breed as pets because they do not make much noise, and they have distinct personalities.

Geese are hardy, lively birds that practically raise themselves after they lose their down. Not much maintenance work is required for the majority of a goose’s life. They are elegant birds and have a unique personality while being versatile.

The goose was domesticated both in eastern Asia and in northern Africa, Europe, and western Asia. In eastern Asia, the swan goose (Anser cygnoides) was domesticated to become the Chinese goose. These geese possess a large knob at the base of their bill. The European-type goose was domesticated from the Greylag — or wild grey — goose (Anser anser) in northern Africa, Europe, and western Asia. Both types have been used since first domesticated for their meat, down, and eggs.

Archaeological evidence in Egypt has shown that geese were kept in ancient Egypt since 300 B.C. The Romans dedicated geese to the goddess Juno. Huge flocks of geese were raised in western Europe and slowly herded to Rome to supply this great city with meat and feathers. As time advanced, large flocks were raised in southern England, Holland, and Germany and were driven to markets in large cities during the fall. Another important product of the goose was the quill, which was used for pens.

Despite being domesticated for centuries, the goose has not undergone the drastic changes seen in other domesticated livestock. The major changes include an increase in size, more fat deposition under the skin, selection for color (most notably white), and improved fertility. The domestic goose does tend to have an upright posture than its wild brethren and generally is unable to fly.

In Asia, the goose is still an important livestock species. Markets do exist in the United States, particularly among immigrants from Asia and along the eastern seaboard. Geese often act as guards for property. For example, the company that brews Ballantine’s Finest Blended Scotch Whisky has been using geese to guard their maturing products since 1959. The guards are nicknamed “The Scotch Watch.” When being sold for meat, geese are usually marketed for a fall market, particularly around the Christmas season.

Duck Breeds

When deciding on which breed of duck you would like to raise, there are two main types to consider. Ornamental ducks are ducks kept for the pleasure of keeping waterfowl. Their striking plumage and amusing behavior are their primary benefits for humans, and generally, they do not make good meat or egg producers. Utility, or commercial, ducks have been bred for meat, down, or egg production. These are the primary duck breeds discussed in this chapter. Ducks come in many different feather colors, and males and females can be distinguished by feather color.

Indian Runner: This breed of duck is unique in its upright stance; it looks like a bowling pin on webbed feet. It was developed from the wild mallard in the East Indies two centuries ago. Because of their physical conformation, they run rather than waddle like the typical duck, which makes walking to the fields an easy task. They are active foragers, especially of insects, snails, and slugs, and do put on a good deal of flesh considering they are a lighter duck. Indian Runners are great egg layers, sometimes even outlaying chickens. Generally, females lay about 200 eggs each year. They are not considered good egg sitters so eggs from a female Indian Runner may need to be incubated by another hen or in an incubator. The adult male Indian Runner seldom weighs more than 5 pounds. Indian Runners are utility ducks, good for egg production and insect control.

Khaki Campbell: The Khaki Campbell is a breed developed in England by Adele Campbell in the late 1800s. Campbell crossed her Indian Runner hen with a Rouen drake (male duck) in order to produce ducks that would lay well and have bigger, meatier bodies. Her breeding strategy worked because the resulting breed, the Khaki Campbell, is an excellent layer. The hens more readily will sit on the eggs, unlike the Indian Runner duck. A hen will lay more than 300 eggs a year. The Khaki Campbell does have a flighty temperament and needs room to forage. They are also adaptable to variable climates and perform well in hot, dry deserts, wet, tropical environments, or cold winter weather. As an added bonus, the Khaki Campbell is an admirable insect, slug, and algae eater.

Pekin: The Pekin is the most common breed of domestic duck. These white ducks are great for meat production as they grow rapidly and pack on more pounds of meat per pound of feed than other ducks. The Pekin duck was developed in China from ducks living in the canals of Nanjing. An adult female will lay about 200 eggs a year. They are not as broody as other ducks, so they might not sit on a nest. Drakes can weigh more than 12 pounds and females more than 11 pounds.

Rouen: The Rouen breed is similar in coloring to the wild Mallard. They were originally developed in France and were imported to England where the breed was bred into the modern-day Rouen. There are two types of Rouen: the production and the standard. The production Rouen weighs between 6 and 8 pounds; the standard Rouen is much larger and weighs between 8 and 10 pounds. Females lay about 70 greenish eggs a year. They are good meat producers but take from six to eight months to mature. This slow maturation rate has lead to commercial duck growers to be reluctant to raise Rouen’s on a large scale for the meat market. The meat from the Rouen is leaner than the Pekin, which makes it a popular duck for restaurants.

Muscovy: The Muscovy is unique in that it was not developed from Mallards. It is a Brazilian breed that can become quite large; males can weigh in at more than 10 pounds. They come in a variety of colors, but they all have a distinctive bright red tissue above the beak and around the eyes. They do not swim much because they have underdeveloped oil glands, which makes their feathers less water resistant than other breeds, but they do have sharp claws, which they use to roost in tree branches. The females become broody three times a year and will incubate the eggs of other ducks or poultry species. If you have eggs from another duck, the Muscovy can hatch them for you.

Cayuga: This breed was developed in New York in the 1800s from native ducks. They are considered a medium-weight duck primarily used as a meat bird. Adult males reach 8 pounds. They have unique coloring with a greenish-blue sheen over dark feathers. Eggs from the Cayuga can be variable colors depending on the season. When they first start laying eggs, the eggs may have a gray or black color. As the laying season progresses, the eggs will start to lose this dark coloring and may even become white.

Goose Breeds

Emden: The Emden was developed in Germany and the Netherlands and is the most common commercial goose breed. They are typically white with orange bills and feet and blue eyes. They grow rapidly, which makes them large meat-type geese. When mature, the gander (male goose) can weigh close to 30 pounds. They make excellent barnyard alarms, as they can be protective of their territory and flock. They can be aggressive, especially ganders protecting their flocks, so small children and pets should be watched when around a flock. Male Emden goslings have a lighter grey down than the female goslings. The goose can lay up to 40 eggs during the breeding season. It is also a good breed for a crossbreeding program as these geese mature early, are good foragers for food, and the females are good mothers.

Toulouse: The Toulouse is a large breed and can weigh up to 25 pounds. It is noted for its cold tolerance and is a popular breed in the Midwest, though it has its origins in France. The Toulouse breed has dark gray feathers on its back, lighter grey feathers on its breast, and white stomach feathers. It has a dewlap or flap of skin hanging under its lower jaw and a bulky body. The Toulouse was bred in France to produce foie gras. As such, it is not as good a forager as other geese breeds and does well when confined to a pen. The goslings also mature slower than other breeds. The goose lays about 35 eggs per year and is a good mother. However, they can be clumsy and break eggs if the nest is not well padded.

Chinese: This breed is the smallest of domestic geese. They have been called Swan Geese, as they carry their body upright (similar to swans). They are distinctive geese because they have a knob at the base of their beak. The knob on the male is larger than the female. Chinese geese come in two colors: brown and white. The white variety has a more attractive carcass, as their pinfeathers are not as noticeable. Another added trait is they make excellent weeders; they eat weeds from vegetable crops without causing much damage to the vegetables due to their smaller size and better agility at moving. Female Chinese geese will lay 50 to 60 eggs during the breeding season (February through June). The Chinese goose makes a good guard goose for the farmstead.

African: The African goose is related to the Chinese goose, but it is a much larger breed. It has a distinctive knob on its forehead near the bill and a dewlap. It is about the same size and weight as the Emden breed, and ganders can weigh close to 30 pounds. The colored variety of African has brown top feathers and a lighter underbelly. The White African variety has white feathers and orange bill, knob, legs, and feet. Despite its name, it does not come from Africa, but its origin is murky. A mature gander weighs 22 to 24 pounds while a mature female weighs 18 to 20 pounds. They can start breeding their first year and can produce eggs for many years. They lay around 35 to 40 eggs a year.

Pilgrim: The Pilgrim goose breed was developed in Iowa but might have had origins in colonial America. They can be easily sexed from their feather coloring; adult males have mostly white feathers while females have gray feathers. This trait is called auto-sexing. Even when a day old, the breed can be sexed on color: male goslings are gray-yellow with light bills and female goslings are olive-gray with dark bills. This is a medium-sized breed, with mature males weighing 14 to 15 pounds. It is also a calmer breed than most of the goose breeds but will still sound an alarm at perceived signs of danger. They are good foragers and good mothers. The female lays 35 to 40 eggs each year.

Sebastopol: This unique breed has blue eyes and curly, twisted feathers that are usually white. Due to their unique feathers, they should have bathing water available to keep their feathers clean. Because of their feather pattern, they are more susceptible to chilling. Unlike other geese, water does not roll off the feathers. They are a gentle breed of goose and are not aggressive. This makes them more susceptible to predation. Females can lay about 40 eggs a year and will brood the eggs of other geese. In fact, they may steal eggs from other nests and roll them into their own. Female goslings have darker down than the males. Ganders weigh around 14 pounds, and females average about 11 pounds.

Duck and Geese Husbandry

Having a flock of ducks or geese running around the farmstead is truly an amusing and heartening sight. These birds offer many benefits to the small-scale farmer, including meat, weed control, and — in the case of geese — even a natural alarm system. After the first few weeks of life, ducks and geese are easy keepers and make great foragers for bugs and weeds.

Ducks are much smaller than most geese. When full grown, a duck can weigh from 4 to 11 pounds and can live as long as 12 years. Geese are large birds that weigh as much as 30 pounds when mature, and they live much longer than ducks — up to 25 years. Geese are loyal family members and prefer to choose a mate for life. They are protective of their flock, which makes them great farm watchdogs.

Ducks can provide reliable source of eggs and meat. Like chickens, some breeds have been bred to be exceptional layers of eggs, while other breeds have been developed to provide substantial quantities of meat. If you plan to collect eggs from your waterfowl, ducks would be the best choice. Two breeds, the Indian Runner and Khaki Campbell, are best known for their prolific egg production. Geese do not lay as many eggs as ducks, but the Emden breed will lay around three dozen eggs during the breeding season.

Although the eggs of ducks and geese can be eaten just like chicken eggs, goose eggs generally are not consumed in the United States. Eggs from geese are large, and compared to chickens, geese lay far fewer eggs. This makes them unpopular for commercial production. Few recipes call for them. Most likely, there will not be a market for the eggs produced by your ducks or geese, but your family may enjoy eating them. Duck eggs have a higher yolk fat content and white protein content than chicken eggs, so when cooked, the whites do not become as stiff as chicken eggs. If the duck has been eating a lot of algae, worms, or grubs, the eggs may have a slightly musty taste. Eggs should be collected twice daily, washed in warm water, and promptly stored in the refrigerator.

Duck meat is higher in iron, niacin, and selenium than many other types of meat. Good duck meat breeds include Pekin, Rouen, Muscovy, and Aylesbury. The meat from both ducks and geese is all dark meat and is richer than chicken or turkey due to the higher fat content — this gives the meat a distinctive taste popular in many gourmet restaurants. Ethnic markets are particularly interested in obtaining a steady supply of quality duck and goose meat. Geese have provided a rich source of protein for centuries, with many people enjoying the meat and liver. But even more so, a roasted goose has long been a traditional Christmas dinner over the centuries. Foie gras is made from the fattened livers of force-fed geese and is especially common in French cultures. Goose meat breeds include the Emden, Toulouse, Chinese, and Africans.

Unlike other poultry species, domesticated waterfowl are mostly disease resistant. However, like the young of any animal species, ducklings and goslings need to be kept dry and warm when they are covered in down. Once the young are fully feathered, they enjoy being outdoors in all but the coldest of weather. They do keep a layer of down under their feathers, which insulates them from cold. In addition, they have an oil gland at the base of the tail. They will rub their chins and cheeks over the gland to collect the oil, which they will then rub onto their feathers. This oil makes their outer feathers waterproof. Mothers will rub some of the oil from her oil gland onto the down of her young until they are able to perform this function on their own. Ducks and geese need to keep their feathers in tip-top condition to keep them dry and warm, so these animals spend a substantial amount of time preening.

Geese will need shelter during subzero weather and protection from aggressive predators such as coyotes. Ducks and geese will also need shade during hot weather. Ducks should be brought into a shelter every night as smaller predators such as raccoons, foxes, and weasels can decimate a flock in a few hours. Geese naturally flock together and will return to a home base each night, even when they wander more than a mile away from home. Vehicles also take their toll on a flock, so if you plan to keep waterfowl, they will need to be kept away from roadways.

Geese are not as vulnerable to predators as ducks and some other poultry are because of their size, but they do enjoy having a shelter available at night.

Young geese are still susceptible to predators. As the larger breeds grow, predators become less of a threat due to the weight of the birds. Dogs and coyotes may kill smaller geese, or they may scare larger geese. When scared, geese will huddle together, and this may cause some geese to be smothered to death. A fenced area with 5-foot-tall fencing makes a good night resting spot for the geese. Be sure to provide your geese with feed and access to a water source in their resting spot. Alternatively, the geese can be locked inside a sturdy building at night to protect them from predators. This is particularly important in geese less than 5 months old when they are still smaller. Geese younger than 8 weeks of age should not be left out at night on the pasture and should be herded inside a secure shelter for safekeeping from poor weather and predators.

Buying Ducks and Geese

Ducklings and goslings are purchased the same places as chickens: directly from the hatchery or through feed stores. They will come in a straight run (both sexes), or they can be sexed if you want to have more of one sex. Generally, a straight run will be a few cents cheaper to purchase than those segregated by sex. For the average small-scale farmer, a straight run will be satisfactory for ducks or geese raised for meat. Males generally will be heavier than females. If you want to breed ducks and geese, you may want them sexed so you can have a proper ratio of males to female. One drake will breed five to six females, and most ganders will breed only with one or two females.

When purchasing your ducklings and goslings directly from the hatchery, ask when they will be mailed. It is safe to ship newly hatched waterfowl as long as they are properly packaged in sturdy cardboard containers with plenty of air holes. They can go without food for a day or two while being shipped, as after hatching they retain part of the yolk from the egg in their body. This will give them a food source.

What to look for when buying ducks and geese

Make sure someone is home to receive the ducklings or goslings when they arrive in the mail. Open the shipping container in the presence of the mail carrier to ensure you have received the number of birds ordered and to check for any dead stock. If you received fewer birds than you had ordered, or if there are any dead birds, the postal carrier can give you a claim check to submit to the hatchery. If you chose to purchase your stock from a store, closely scrutinize their pen conditions. It should be dry, and the feed and water containers should be clean and full. The ducklings and goslings should be active if awake with no noticeable discharge from eyes or nose. Peek under their tails. The vent (anus) should be clean with no buildup of fecal material.

Ducklings and goslings should be raised separately because of the goslings’ larger size. You can keep them in separate pens. However, general care is similar, so the material presented in this chapter will apply to both species.

Housing and Feeding Ducks and Geese

Prior to ordering or heading to the feed store to purchase your new additions, the pen, feeders, and waterers should be set up and ready. The pen should be in a draft-free, fully enclosed building with good ventilation and lighting. A corner of a garage or barn will work as well, provided you keep running motors out of the area so the birds are not subjected to fumes. Allow 6 inches of space per bird. Increase this to 1 foot per bird after they are 2 weeks old to add more space for the birds as they grow. For example, you would start out with 5 feet of space for ten ducklings and, after two weeks, increase the space to 10 feet.

The pen floor should be covered with an absorbent litter. Four inches of wood shavings, peat moss, or chopped straw will be sufficient. The litter will need to be maintained to eliminate wet, dirty spots. Add fresh litter as needed to maintain 4 inches of bedding. Heat and light can be provided using a heat lamp with a 250-watt bulb, or a hover brooder can be used. A hover brooder uses propane heat coupled with a metal pan (or hover) to direct and retain the heat over the young. If you want to use a heat lamp, plan to use one heat lamp per 15 goslings or 25 ducklings. Hover brooders typically come with instructions for chicks. Because ducklings and goslings are larger than chicks, brood one-half as many ducklings and one-third as many goslings as you would chicks.

The heat-source temperature should be between 85 and 90 degrees F. This temperature can be reduced 5 to 10 degrees every week until the temperature is about 70 degrees F. After the sixth week and if the weather is mild, the birds will be fully feathered and will no longer need supplemental heat. The birds should be confined near the heat, feed, and water sources during the first two to three days after arrival. Observe the birds closely to determine if the heat source needs to be raised or lowered. As with chickens, if the birds avoid the heat source and are lurking at the edges of the pen, raise the heat source a few inches. If they huddle under the heat source, lower it a few inches.

Waterers

Waterers should be full when the birds arrive. There are many types of reasonably priced waterers available. Do not use an open pan for young ducklings or goslings; they should not get wet when they are in the down stage lest they become chilled. A chilled baby bird can quickly become hypothermic and die. Instead, use a waterer with a base wide enough for the birds to dip their heads and bills without being able to fall in. Adding commercial electrolyte or vitamin powder to the water the first few days can give the young birds a healthy boost. You can use electrolyte formulas found at the grocery store, or you can purchase packets to mix from farm supply stores.

Do not let young ducks or geese have access to swimming water or leave them outside in the rain. The feathers of young ducks and geese are not fully developed to protect them from water, especially during the down stage. If they have been hatched out by a mother duck or goose, they can have access to swimming water with the adults because the mother will not let them remain in the water for too long, and she will protect them from rain. By 4 or 5 weeks, the ducklings will be feathered out and will be able to tolerate most weather conditions. Goslings can be placed on pasture at about 6 weeks of age in good weather.

Ducks enjoy water not only for quenching their thirst but also for cleaning their bodies and exercise. Ducks cannot survive without access to bathing water. They will need a deeper trough than is required for chickens to dip their bills in to drink. It is their habit to splash water onto their heads and bills to clean themselves.

If you have a few birds (fewer than ten), you can use a hose and a small kiddie pool to provide bathing water. This will need cleaning and refilling twice each day. The ground surrounding the pool will quickly become muddy with the ducks hopping in and out of the pool. You can combat the mud issue by frequently relocating the pool to a new area or placing it on sand or gravel. Alternatively, you can build a small platform using water-resistant two-by-fours and welded wire. It should be 2 to 3 feet wider than the pool to allow a place for the ducks to step on as they enter and exit the pool. The platform only needs to be about 6 inches off the ground. It should not be so tall that it is difficult for the birds to hop up. The birds also should have a waterer for drinking. They should not be able to swim in this water but only submerge their head and drink water.

If you have more than ten birds, provide separate waterers and bathing tubs for each group. The bathing tubs should be cleaned twice a day. You can use a small pond for bathing if you already have one on your property, but the banks quickly can become damaged if too many ducks use the pond. To combat bank erosion, the bank can be reinforced with large stones. Ducks can be quite damaging to the shoreline as they dig in the mud in search of food.

Ducks are susceptible to predation, especially domestic ducks that have a limited ability to fly. You should provide your ducks with a predator-proof pen. They can roam during the day, but at night put them in a pen. Predators such as dogs, weasels, coyotes, and raccoons are most active at night. Strong woven wire should be used with squares of less than ½ inch. Weasels are able to squeeze through any wire bigger than this size. The top of the pen should also be covered to prevent animals from climbing over the top.

Inspect the pen weekly. Check the pen or building for any signs of tunneling under the floor or foundation. Patch any holes with concrete, wood, or wire as soon as they are found. Make certain the doors and any windows are solid, that latches work, and that they are free from damage.

Also, you may prefer to keep your ducks penned and confined to a certain area during the day. Many types of fencing material can be used such as chicken wire, welded wire, woven wire, game bird netting, and lightweight plastic fencing material. The fencing material should be a minimum of 2 feet tall to keep the ducks inside. If you need to keep dogs out, the fence should be 5 feet tall or higher.

The spacing between the wires should be ½ to 1 inch. Any bigger and the ducks can stick their heads between the wires. This may cause them to become trapped or, even worse, a predator can bite the head of a duck that sticks its head outside the fence. The fencing material should be stretched taut and secured to posts (steel or wood) securely driven into the ground.

Keep in mind that ducks will need shade if temperatures approach 70 degrees F or above. Natural shade through trees or allowing access to a covered pen will be adequate. If the ducks are kept fenced in an opened area, you can build a simple shade for them using three 12-inch long 2-by-4 boards and a piece of ½-inch thick plywood. FarmTek (www.farmtek.com), an agricultural supplier, also carries lightweight livestock canopies and covers composed of tough, weather-resistant plastic, which make a simple and affordable shade cover for ducks.

Feeding Ducks and Geese

A good commercial starter feed will get your young goslings and ducklings off to a good start. They are generally disease resistant, so a medicated feed will not be necessary. In fact, certain medications found in chick starters can cause health problems in goslings and ducklings. Chicks peck at their feed while goslings and ducklings are voracious eaters. This means they can overdose on the medicated feed, causing organ damage. Look for starter feed made for ducklings and goslings, or feed them an unmedicated feed. If your feed store does not carry starter feed for ducks and geese, they may be able to order it for you. Starting the first week of life, small amounts of fresh growing grass or fresh clippings also can be fed to the birds. After four weeks, their diet can be supplemented with cracked corn, and they can be switched to a grower ration.

A plot of pasture enclosed by a 3-foot, woven-wire fence makes a great feed source for the birds when they are about 6 weeks old. As an alternative to heavy, permanent wire fencing, you can use a lightweight, portable electric fence, called poultry netting, made of plastic and electro-plastic strings. By using a fencer to deliver an electric charge to the fence, you can keep the geese inside and thwart predators with a stiff shock if they try to gain access to the flock. Premier fencing (www.premier1supplies.com) carries poultry netting, fencers, and plastic PVC posts along with valuable tips on how to use the netting for poultry flocks.

Both ducks and geese are great at foraging both bugs and plants. Geese are larger than ducks and will need more pasture, or they will quickly become defoliated and heavily soiled. They do not care for alfalfa or tough, narrow leaved grasses. Good plants for pasture are brome grass, Timothy, orchard grass, bluegrass, and clover. The pasture will need to be monitored, as it quickly can become defoliated and heavily soiled by the geese. Grass for goose pasture should be about 4 inches in height. Longer grass can become bound up in the goose’s crop — the outcropping of the esophagus — and cause death.

If you are not raising your ducks for meat production or egg laying, adult ducks can forage for much of their food if they are allowed to roam. Feed should still be provided for the ducks, however, as there will be seasonal variations in food supply. To make feeding less complicated, a gravity feeder can be used. This type of feeder is a round-shaped container on a base that dispenses feed down as the ducks eat at the bottom.

Place the feeder(s) inside a pen to encourage your ducks to come to the pen in the evenings. It should be in a covered area so rain will not be able to destroy the feed. Nasco (www.enasco.com) carries many styles of feeders for poultry producers made from both galvanized steel and plastic. Feeders and waterers for adult ducks should be cleaned as they become soiled and disinfected once a month.

If your geese or ducks are to be slaughtered for home use or for market, they should be fed a finishing ration formulated for turkeys starting one month before slaughter. This will provide them extra nutrients allowing them to fatten before slaughter. Birds not intended for slaughter do not need to be fed a finishing ration. Finishing rations and other feeds for your birds can be found at feed supply stores.

Duck and Geese Health

Although waterfowl are disease resistant, infectious diseases can and do take toll on unlucky flocks. To keep your ducks and geese as disease free as possible, try to limit their contact with wild birds that can carry viruses and bacteria from an infected flock to yours. Another strategy to minimize disease is to keep your birds’ water source, feed, and pens clean of droppings. If feeders or waterers become soiled with feces, a good scrubbing with bleach water (1 teaspoon bleach per gallon water) will help kill disease organisms. Allow the cleaned equipment to dry before refilling with feed or water.

If you plan to pasture your flock, make sure there is enough ground for the birds. Overstocking pens and pastures is an invitation for disease organisms in the feces to grow and multiply. Rotating pastures using small paddocks will be beneficial in two ways: Fecal material will get a chance to dry, and the action of sunlight can neutralize many disease organisms. It also will give the pasture plants a chance to grow back.

Here are some common diseases that can affect ducks and geese:

Avian influenza: This disease has caused much concern throughout the world. Avian influenza affects both ducks and geese. The mild form causes such symptoms as lethargy, trouble breathing, diarrhea, and loss of appetite. Death losses are rare from the mild form of avian influenza, but the more severe form can cause death of the entire flock and is characterized by the above signs plus facial swelling. There is no specific treatment for avian influenza aside from good husbandry, and there is not a vaccination. Prevention includes strict attention to rodent control, disinfection of boots and equipment, and control of wild birds. Humans also have been affected by avian influenza. If your ducks or geese have avian influenza, you need to report it to your state and local authorities, as well as to the USDA. Ducks and geese are at increased risk of contracting avian influenza and they need to be tested if you suspect they may have the illness to keep them from spreading it.

Botulism: Ducks can be affected by botulism, otherwise known as limber neck. The disease is caused by the bacterium Clostridium botulinum, which grows in the mud and vegetation in warm, stagnant water. The duck ingests the bacteria, and it releases a toxin. The bird may be found dead, or it may be paralyzed but conscious. Treatment is possible during the first 24 hours by force-feeding the duck water and feed. The bird should be placed in a shaded, dry nest away from predators while the toxin wears off.

Chlamydiosis: Ducks are susceptible to chlamydiosis, or parrot fever. Signs of an infected duck include nose and eye discharges, sinus infections, reddened eyes, diarrhea, weight loss, and loss of appetite. The disease is spread from infected bird to healthy bird from discharges and feces. Wild birds can spread the disease to domestic ducks. Chlamydiosis is also spread through contaminated boots, clothing, and equipment. Once an infected duck recovers, it can still be a carrier of the organism. Treatment is done using the antibiotic chlortetracycline.

Fowl cholera: This infectious disease is caused by the bacterium Pasteurella multocida. Both ducks and geese can contract this disease, which strikes suddenly and causes numerous deaths in the flock. Factors that can cause an outbreak include overcrowded pens or ponds, spread of the disease from wild birds, and cold and damp weather. Although sudden death is usually the first sign of the disease, some birds will have convulsions, rapid breathing, become listless, have nasal discharge, or have vents matted with droppings. Treatment for those birds in the flock not ill from fowl cholera is an antibiotic in the water. This treatment is done as a preventive measure. All sick birds should be removed from the flock and treated elsewhere. Dead carcasses should be burned.

Fowlpox: This disease can cause disease in ducks of all ages. There are two forms of fowlpox. The wet form causes canker sore-like lesions in the mouth and throat. This can cause trouble breathing due to obstruction of these respiratory passages. The dry form causes raised, bumpy growths on the legs. It can cause problems with growth and egg production. Mosquitoes carry and spread this disease. Spraying for mosquitoes can help control the spread. Vaccination is suggested if fowlpox becomes a problem in your flock.

Infectious hepatitis: This disease affects young ducklings between 2 and 3 weeks old. A virus that is either ingested or inhaled by waterfowl causes this disease. The sick duckling appears to be unable to gain its balance and will be seen lying on its side with its head drawn back toward the tail. Their legs also will make paddling motions. Most cases result in death within a day of signs. Vaccinations are available for healthy ducklings in an infected flock. Mothers can also be vaccinated two weeks before laying eggs to pass immunity on to the ducklings.

Intestinal parasites: Different types of intestinal parasites can affect geese and ducks. Coccidiosis, roundworms, flukes, and tapeworms are ingested by the birds from the ground or feed contaminated with feces. Signs of infection are varied and range from young geese with stunted growth, lethargic birds, diarrhea, or death if the birds are heavily infected. If you suspect your flock has intestinal parasites, take a sample of feces to your veterinarian to examine for parasites. Once the parasite is identified, treatment is through medication in the feed or water.

Salmonellosis: The bacterium salmonella, an organism that can affect a wide variety of animals and humans, causes this disease. It can quickly become a flock-wide problem due to its tendency to spread quickly. Signs of salmonellosis include lethargy, diarrhea, swollen joints, and lameness. Identification of the disease is only made through laboratory testing of feces from infected birds and examining carcasses of dead or dying birds. A bird that survives salmonellosis will remain infected for life, and it should be separated from the rest of the flock to prevent spread of the disease.

Parasitic diseases

Parasitic infections can plague your birds, especially if they have access to dirt. Check your birds daily to assess their overall health. Things to observe include feather loss, weight loss, unusual appearance, sitting huddled away from the flock, and decreased egg production. Infected birds can be more prone to developing other diseases that can quickly lead to death.

Most birds raised with access to dirt flooring will harbor a few internal parasites. These generally will not cause symptoms or problems and are not easily transmitted to humans.

Birds get parasites by eating the parasite eggs found on food, in the dirt, or in water. Insects, earthworms, or snails — all tasty treats for foraging birds — also carry the parasites or their eggs in their bodies. To control parasites, you can do some specific things:

• Do not overcrowd your shed or outside pens.

• Try to keep wild birds away from your domestic flock.

• Use insecticides, if necessary, to control insects in sheds.

• Change bedding frequently, and keep it dry.

• Remove droppings to keep birds from pecking at them.

• Keep your birds on a quality feed, formulated with plenty of vitamins.

• If you suspect internal parasites, have your local veterinarian identify the species so you can properly medicate the birds.

Coccidiosis: This disease is caused by parasites that cause decreased growth and death in birds. After ingesting the organism in feed or water contaminated with feces, it grows in the intestine and causes damage to tissues. This damage leads to decreased absorption of nutrients, decreased feed intake, blood loss, and an increased susceptibility to other infections. The primary symptoms are an outbreak of bloody diarrhea along with lethargic birds that huddle together with ruffled feathers. These outbreaks are usually related to an increased number of birds in a small space: The higher the stocking density, or number of birds in a space, the greater the number of coccidia in a smaller area. With less space per bird, the chances of infection increase because there will be a greater concentration of coccidia. Levels of coccidia in the digestive tract will not cause much damage, but higher numbers will cause serious problems. It is usually a more severe problem in young birds. Treatment includes the addition of coccidiostats — medications that kill coccidia — in the feed or water. Prevention relies on manure removal, moving birds to fresh ground, and decreasing stocking density in pens.

Internal parasites

Birds quite frequently are exposed to internal parasites by ingesting these organisms in the feed, water, or soil. Some common internal parasites include ascarids (round worms), cecal worms, capillaria worms, and tapeworms. Signs of a bird affected with internal parasites vary but can include pasting of the vent, diarrhea, poor or stunted growth, or lack of appetite. The only sign may be slightly reduced weight at marketing time. Worms can be treated using medications readily purchased at farm stores and veterinary offices.

Nutritional deficiencies

Nutritional deficiencies can be a problem in poultry, especially while they are still growing.

Angel wing

Angel wing also is known as crooked or slipped wing and affects geese. The last joint of the wing becomes twisted, causing the wing feathers to point out rather than lay flat against the body. Males develop the condition more often than females. Angel wing is caused by an improper diet while the goose is young. Too much protein or too many calories combined with low vitamin D, vitamin E, and manganese levels prevent the last joint on the wing from developing properly in relation to the rest of the wing bones. There may be a genetic predisposition to developing angel wing, and those adults affected with this disease should not be kept for breeding purposes.

The condition can affect both wings or just one wing, though if only one wing is affected, it will likely be the left wing. Feeding your geese a proper diet during the growing stage can prevent the disease. If the disease is caught early in a young, growing goose, the wing can be wrapped in wide self-adhesive wrap, called vet wrap, and the wing secured to the body. A diet with low protein and calories supplemented with vitamin D, vitamin E, and manganese should be fed to help the joint develop properly in the affected goose. If the condition is caught early and the wing is treated, it should grow properly and look normal.

Handling Aggressive Ganders

Ganders raised and imprinted on humans can become aggressive toward humans because they view humans as rivals for mates. This may happen at about 5 months of age. They will display dominant signs such as putting their heads down, pointing their bill up, or spreading their wings out. Sometimes humans that tease or chase geese can provoke this behavior as well. Do not allow children or immature adults to harass your geese.

If a gander does display such behavior toward you, you will need to confront it immediately before it becomes a major problem. Step toward the bird. He should back off, but if he does not, loosely grab a wing. You will need to work quickly as the gander may try to bite you when you attempt this maneuver. When he tries to back off, let go of the wing. He may try to intimidate you a few times, but it is important for you to confront the gander each time he tries to be the dominant figure. If this behavior continues unchecked, it will turn into a major problem every time you come around the flock.

If you do have an aggressive gander, you can try to get the upper hand by grabbing him and pinning him to the ground. His wings will flap (and they can pack a punch), and he may bite you. He definitely will squawk but keep him down until he submits by resting. Then let him go and repeat as necessary until he leaves you alone. Wearing heavy leather gloves, safety glasses, and a jacket will help protect you from his wings and bill.

Breeding Ducks and Geese

Ducks and geese intended for breeding should have a wing or leg band applied so you can identify them when you breed them. Banding should be done soon after hatching, and each band used on one animal should have identical numbers. Records should be kept regarding the parents of each duck, how many eggs each duck or goose lays, if she is broody and for how long, and how many eggs are hatched for each female. Poorly performing ducks and geese can be identified by their band and culled.

The tail features of ducks descended from Mallards, which is about every bird, will help you determine the sex. Drakes will have a few curled feather tips at the end of their tails while females’ tails will lie flat. Geese are not so easily identified as adults. They should be purchased as sexed and banded as soon as possible so you can tell gander from goose. For those breeds that cannot be sexed on physical characteristics (for example, Pilgrims by feather color, Emden by down color, and Chinese by beak knob), vent sexing will need to be done. This is performed when the ducklings or goslings are a couple of days old.

The bird is held with the vent facing the person performing the sexing. The right thumb and first finger are placed on either side of the vent and pressed firmly over the vent. The vent is then parted slowly to expose the inner lining. The left thumb is used to gently pull back on the skin surrounding the vent. This will expose a pink colored cloaca and the penis (a small protuberance) in the male will be visible. The females have a genital eminence, or small fold of tissue. Adults are sexed in a similar manner but will struggle when caught.

Only those ducks and geese in good physical shape should be kept for breeding. Legs should be straight and free of deformities, as should the beak and wings. They should comply with breed standards for coloring, body shape, and weight. A drake can breed five to eight females. For geese, only one gander should be used for one or two females. Ducks can be bred during the first year; geese should be 1 year old when they breed. Geese prefer to mate on water, and the water should be deep enough for the geese to swim in.

Most duck eggs take 28 days to hatch, with the exception of Muscovy duck eggs, which take 35 days. If the female incubates her own eggs, make sure she has water and feed available near the nest. Pekin and Indian Runner ducks do not make good egg sitters, so you may need to have a foster mother incubate the eggs. Duck eggs can be brooded by broody chicken hens, but the eggs will need to be sprinkled with water every day to keep them slightly moist. If you plan to artificially incubate the eggs, the process is similar to chickens except for differences in humidity and temperature. Incubation requires 99.5 degrees F and 55 to 75 percent humidity. The eggs need to be turned at least twice daily but preferably four times a day. At day 25, the temperature should be lowered and the humidity slightly increased. Once the ducklings are hatched, allow them to dry in the incubator for one hour. Then, they can be moved to their prepared brooding pen.

Geese eggs take 30 days to hatch. Temperature in a forced-air incubator should be 100 degrees F, while in a still-air incubator, the temperature should be maintained at 103 degrees F. The humidity should be 50 to 55 percent for the first 27 days of incubation. Eggs should be turned 180 degrees, four to six times each day. The final three days before hatching, increase the humidity to 75 percent. When the goslings hatch, the doors to the incubator should be opened to allow the humidity to escape; this allows the goslings’ down to dry. After an hour, they should be dry and can be moved to the brooding pen.

Nest boxes for geese should be a minimum of 2 square feet. Larger breeds may require more space. You can build your own boxes out of wood or purchase them from a poultry supply company, though it might be difficult to find a wooden box large enough for geese. If the female incubates her own eggs, make sure she has water and feed available near the nest. A female should not leave her eggs unattended more than once a day. Most females can successfully hatch up to a dozen eggs.

If you plan to incubate the eggs, collect them at least twice daily, but be sure to use caution. During breeding season, the geese can become ornery. You most likely will be hissed at as you collect eggs. To prevent being injured by protective mothers, situate nest boxes near an aisle in the pen, wear gloves, and protect your eyes with safety glasses. You can also create a distraction by feeding the birds as you collect their eggs.

Using Waterfowl for Weed Control, Insect Control, and as Alarms

Because of the goose’s large size, excellent vision, and loud voice, and because of some breeds tend to be aggressive, they make good guard birds. Geese are intelligent and have a good memory. They remember people or animals that scare, harass, or frighten them. They also remember troublesome and scary situations. These factors make the goose a good guard bird against intruders. Geese have a preferential appetite for grasses and will avoid eating broad-leaved plants, which makes them ideal weeders for gardens or vineyards. Before chemical weed control became commonplace, specialty crop growers relied on geese to keep the grass picked in such crops as asparagus, mint, beets, beans, onions, and potatoes. To use geese for weeding gardens, the garden rows should be at least 1 foot apart, and a fence should enclose the garden.

Let the geese have access to the garden once the plants have established themselves, and the geese will eradicate the grasses and small, tender weeds. For plants that ripen above ground, such as tomatoes, do not allow the geese to weed these plants when the vegetables are ripe as they might peck at the colorful plants. Geese prefer to eat grasses (weeds) to vegetables, so remove them once the weeds have been eaten to keep them from sampling the vegetables. If snails and slugs are a garden problem, ducks can be let into the area to feast on these garden pests. Ducks are good algae and insect eaters in ornamental ponds. However, do not stock the pond too heavily or they may deposit too much feces in the water and destroy all plant life.

Case Study: Why Waterfowl?

Suzanne Peterson

Azariah Acres Farm

Foley, Minnesota

www.azariahacres.net

Suzanne Peterson raises geese and ducks on her farm, Azariah Acres, near Foley, Minnesota. Peterson grew up on a hobby farm where she learned that she really enjoyed caring for animals. Her love of animal husbandry led her to start farming for the joy of seeing animals grow.

Her first foray into farm birds was with chickens, but she found the market for small farm-raised chickens very competitive. In 2008, she had the opportunity to raise geese and ducks. She found a market for these two species and discovered that they are easier to raise than chickens. Peterson markets her birds as already butchered birds at a local farmers market.

Although Peterson feels ducks and geese are easier to keep than chickens, there are still many chores associated with waterfowl. She spends about an hour a day caring for her 15 geese and 80 ducks, including feeding, cleaning pens and waterers, thawing waterers in the winter, and clipping their wings to keep them contained. Recordkeeping is also an important chore. Peterson keeps records on when babies are hatched, how much feed the birds consume, each bird’s weight at the butcher, and any disease or malformation issues.

Good fences are important as predators such as dogs and coyotes can decimate a flock. Cats, possums, owls, and hawks also can snatch young ducks and geese. Finding a sick or injured bird is the worst part of raising geese. However, she rarely has disease problems with her birds as she gives them ample access to water year-round and provides them plenty of pasture and pen space — the most important part of keeping disease out of a flock.

“The best aspect to raising ducks and geese is their intelligence and hardiness,” Peterson said. “They are really interesting and beautiful animals.” She feels raising geese and ducks could be a good family project if the birds are handled a lot. If not, she feels a child under 10 should not be around geese as they are very strong and can be aggressive. However, if the animals are handled a lot, even a young child could help with the ducks and geese. Peterson suggests a beginner waterfowl farmer start with two to four geese or 20 ducks to get a good idea of the care needed for these birds.

Ducks and Geese for Meat

Butchering ducks and geese is similar to butchering chickens. Pekin ducks can be ready to butcher at 8 weeks of age when they are 5 pounds. Rouen ducks mature much more slowly and will be ready for butchering at 5 to 6 months. Geese are usually raised for the holiday market during the late fall. They should be 5 to 6 months old and weigh 10 to 15 pounds, depending on the breed. The down from the breast area can be washed, dried, and saved for use in pillows or clothing. After butchering, geese and ducks can be dry picked, but scalding the feathers first makes them release easier and cuts down on skin tears.

Older ducks and geese provide the best quality down. Down is found only on the stomach and chest of ducks and geese. It only makes up about 12 to 15 percent of the total feathers of a bird. To remove the down from a bird, after the bird is butchered, you can pluck out the tiny pinfeathers by hand. Placing the duck or goose in a vat of scalding water for a few moments will help loosen the down feathering so the down can be hand-plucked more easily. The down is plucked by hand.

If you do not want to save the down, the goose or duck can be waxed after the large feathers are removed. This process will remove the down and smaller feathers that are more difficult to remove. Melted paraffin wax can be purchased and heated to 140 to 155 degrees F. The goose or duck should be dipped twice into the wax then dipped into cold water to set the wax. When the wax sets to a flexible form, it can be stripped off along with the down and feather. The wax can be strained of the feathers and down and reused.

Web Resources

Here is a list of Internet resources relating to ducks and geese, poultry and waterfowl. You can find more information to help you with raising your ducks and geese by visiting some of these websites.

General farm

The National Association of State Departments of Agriculture: www.nasda.org

The National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service: www.attra.ncat.org

The Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education Organization: www.sare.org

United States Department of Agriculture: www.usda.gov

United States Department of Agriculture Food Safety and Inspection Service: www.fsis.usda.gov

Buildings

Chicken Coop Source: www.chickencoopsource.com

Amish Goods: www.myamishgoods.com

Build Eazy: www.buildeazy.com

Egganic Industries: www.henspa.com

Feather Site: www.feathersite.com