DISTANCE: 150 miles (241km) roundtrip
TIME: A full day
START: Kona Airport
END: Ali’i Drive
POINTS TO NOTE: This driving tour includes quite a bit of time in the car. Start early as you’ll need the full day to see everything. Pack a pair of sneakers for walking around and a swimsuit and towel – the beaches along the way will certainly tempt you!
The Kohala Coast
The Queen Kaahumanu Highway traverses miles of black, barren lava flows, most recently from 1859. Just north of the Kona Airport 1 [map], the exclusive, very upscale Kukio 2 [map] and Four Seasons Hualalai 3 [map] nestle on the beach. Beach access to pristine Kukio beach is possible; pull into Kukio Road and ask at the guardhouse. The beach is pristine and usually empty, fronted by the private homes and facilities of luxurious Kukio. Stick to the sand and water, and you’re welcome here.
Pu’ukohola Heiau National Historic Site
Steven Greaves/Apa Publications
Kawaihae
Back on the highway, North Kona becomes South Kohala with a string of resorts – pass on by for now. At the junction leading to North Kohala’s west coast, stop at the Pu’ukohola Heiau 4 [map], a national historic site. Dedicated to the war god, it was built by King Kamehameha I in 1791. Follow Route 270 past Kawaihae, a commercial port and the site where Kamehameha’s canoes set off for conquest. Lapakahi State Historical Park 5 [map] is a look back into the past of 600 years ago; in the early morning coolness it’s a satisfying self-guided walk through this ghost town of a commoners’ fishing village.
The road ascends inland over increasingly green hills as you climb towards Hawi. Take the Upolu Point 6 [map] turnoff, where a modest straight-arrow road leads (after a left at the airstrip) to a passable (except when wet) dirt road to the Mo’okini Heiau 7 [map], a temple maintained by the same family for 1,000 years. Nearby is Kamehameha’s Birthplace, c.1752.
Hawi and Kapa’au
The main road takes you through Hawi, a one-time sugar boom-town, and turnaround for the world-renowned Ironman World Championship. In Hawi, sign up for the Flumin’ Kohala Ditch (www.adventureinhawaii.com), an exhilarating kayak through otherwise inaccessible wilderness of the Kohala Mountains. From Hawi head to Kapa’au, where the original King Kamehameha Statue 8 [map] stands before the unassuming Civic Center. At the road’s end is the PololuValley Lookout 9 [map], teasing visitors with peeks of sheer ocean cliffs and a black sand beach below. From Kapa’au, turn south onto Route 250, which climbs the Kohala mountains with spectacular views of Mauna Kea (13,677ft/4,168 meters) and Mauna Loa (13,679ft/4,169 meters) then descends into Waimea.
Black sand beach in Pololu Valley
Steven Greaves/Apa Publications
Waimea
Rustic ranching town
Waimea retains its ranch town feel despite recent gentrification. Parker Ranch, the largest individually-held ranch in America, is the dominant economic force. Don’t be confused by Waimea’s several names – only the post office calls the town Kamuela. In town, Merriman’s, see 1, is an island classic for a sit-down meal. Also notable, and more casual, is Pau, see 2, run by a young Waimea couple that knows food. After you’ve refueled, stop at the eclectic Kamuela Museum (www.kamuelamuseum.com), on the west side of town for a little bit of, well, everything. It’s a bit like you’re in someone’s attic.
Should beach-time summon, it’s but a short drive back to South Kohala and Kona. Otherwise, continue east on Route 19 to Honokaa and the Waipi’o Valley Lookout at Waipio Bay ) [map], 1,000ft (305 meters) above the transcendent valley, at one time inhabited by thousands.
Art stops
Turn back towards Waimea and through to the Queen K. Heading south again, visit the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel ! [map], whose Asian and Pacific art collection is as magnificent as its crescent beach. Turn in at Mauna Lani Resort @ [map] (for more information, click here) and follow the signs to the Puako petroglyphs £ [map], where you’ll find fascinating ancient rock drawings representing scenes of life in pre-contact Hawai‘i.
Puako petroglyphs
Getty Images
Refuel
Ready for an Oceanside snack, drink, or simply a place to sit in the shade? Skip the big resorts at Waikoloa and head to Lava Lava Beach Club, see 3, for a taste of old Hawai‘i – charming cottages, a restaurant and seats in the sand. Continue back to Kona, the leeward side’s largest town is the island’s social hotspot. On Ali’i Drive, you’ll find Moku’aikaua Church $ [map], built in 1837. Sunset is free along the harbor seawall. Add dinner to the view at Huggo’s, see 4, if you’re back in time.
Food and Drink
1 Merriman’s
65-1227 Opelo Road; tel: 808-885 6822; www.merrimanshawaii.com; Mon−Fri 11.30am–1.30pm, 5.30–9pm, Sat−Sun 10am–1pm, 5.30–9pm; $$$–$$$$
People have been known to travel from neighbor islands just to dine at Merriman’s. Known for Hawai‘i regional cuisine, chef-owner Peter Merriman is a product of the resorts who, thankfully, stepped out on his own. Expect fresh locally grown food with a Hawai’i twist.
2 Pau Restaurant
65-1227 Opelo Road; tel: 808-885 6325; www.paupizza.com; daily 11am–8pm; $$
Pau’s signature lunch dish is a fresh fish sandwich cooked to perfection on a soft ciabatta bun with lettuce, tomato and tartar sauce – the salad it comes with was grown right in Waimea.
69-1091 Ku’uali’i Place; tel: 808-769 5282; www.lavalavabeachclub.com; daily 11am–9pm; $$–$$$
Both a small cottage resort and restaurant, Lava Lava offers a fun, toes in the sand, laid-back luxury experience. While inside seating is an option, where else can you sit at a table in the sand and shade while enjoying shrimp and fried rice in a carved out pineapple? It doesn’t get any more Hawai’i than this.
4 Huggo’s
75-5828 Kahakai Road; tel: 808-329 1493; www.huggos.com; dining Sun–Thu 5.30pm–9pm, Fri–Sat 5.30–10pm, cocktail lounge Mon–Thu 4–10pm, Fri–Sun 5pm–midnight; $$
Huggo’s is literally perched on the rocks just off Kona’s Ali’i Drive. Come for the views of sunset, but know that the food will be just as good. Fresh seafood here truly is fresh.