DISTANCE: 77 miles (124km)
TIME: A full day
START: Lihue
END: Hanalei
POINTS TO NOTE: Heed all signs – the beaches are stunning and tempting, but signs are there for good reason. Shorebreak can be rough during the winter months. Pack your suit, hiking shoes and snorkeling gear – even in the winter there are calm days.
North shore bound
Start north on Highway 56, Kuhio Highway, from Lihue as early as you can for this big day out. Continue through Wailua (for more information, click here). Poli’ahu Heiau and Opaeka’a Falls 1 [map] are quick visits en route, which are worth the jaunt up the hill. Beyond Wailua is Kapa’a, a humming local town – avoid trying to drive back through between 3pm and 6pm, as traffic on the narrow highway road comes to a standstill. Java Kai, see 1, on the ocean side, is a nice stop for coffee and breakfast.
Kilauea Point Lighthouse
Steven Greaves/Apa Publications
Kilauea and the lighthouse
Leaving Kapa’a, you’ll find the beautiful but dangerous Kealia Beach 2 [map] (otherwise known as Donkey Beach), great for a walk and for watching the surfers. Push on, there’s much ahead. Pass through the small town of Anahola (blink and you’ll miss it – that post office, general store and burger joint are the town), and follow the coast up to Kilauea 3 [map], a quaint village known for its lighthouse and wildlife refuge. Turn right into Kilauea Road and follow signs toward the lighthouse. Turn right on Keneke Street to find Kilauea Bakery and Pau Hana Pizza, see 2, and pick up some baked goods for the road. The best eclectic mix of art and shopping in the state is in the beautiful lava rock building built in 1881 on the corner of Kilauea and Keneke roads at Kong Lum. You’ll find treasures for everyone on your list – including yourself.
The lighthouse at Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge 4 [map] (www.fws.gov/refuge/Kilauea_Point; Tue–Sat 10am–4pm; children free) is known for the world’s largest clamshell lens, and point for it and for its gorgeous views of the coast and seabirds riding the wind. Watch out for the frigate bird, hard to ignore with its 8ft (2-meter) wingspan, the Nene (Hawai‘i’s State Bird) and the laysan albatross that nest here, having instinctually returned to their birthplace to lay their own egg. Scan the ocean 700ft (210 meters) below for turtles, whales, rays and dolphins.
Princeville
Past Kilauea, the highway roles through gentle countryside with views of the island’s mountainous interior. Princeville, named after Kamehameha IV’s son, Prince Albert, is home to mainland transplants and retirees, as well as the Princeville St. Regis. Take note and pop in later for a ginger margarita and a final glimpse of waterfall-surrounded Hanalei Bay on your way back to town. Princeville is the last gas station you’ll pass, so take this opportunity to fill up. They’re the only one on the north shore, so you’ll pay a premium.
Hanalei Valley Lookout
Steven Greaves/Apa Publications
Hanalei
On the main highway beyond the Princeville entrance is the Hanalei Valley Lookout 5 [map]. Hanalei provides half of Hawai‘i’s poi supply from the traditionally cultivated taro fields below. The lower extent of Hanalei Valley also serves as a national wildlife refuge. Below, the 1913 vintage one-lane bridge, cherished by local residents in spite of the wait, carries you across to Hanalei.
Hanalei is home to a mix of kama ‘aina, surfers, new age types and celebrities in hiding, and more than its fair share of beach bums. Don’t be fooled – the “simple-living” folks here are living in homes that start at a million dollars. The Hanalei Dolphin, see 3, takes advantage of its riverside setting that makes alfresco dining an option and the fish tastes like it may have been swimming this morning. The main commercial center is Ching Young Village 6 [map], good for bee pollen, The New York Times, surf style clothes or camping gear. Across the street find more shops, including the beach-house decor staple Sand People, as well as Hanalei Gourmet, see 4, a deli, offers eclectic fare with a Hawai‘ian regional twist, a casual atmosphere and live music on select nights. Down the road on the left is a New England-looking green church. This is the Wai’oli Hui’ia Church 7 [map], more easily pronounced “the green church”. Stop in and take a peak – paired with the view of the valley behind it, with the always-running Namolokama Falls at the center, it’s a picturesque rest stop.
Hanalei
Steven Greaves/Apa Publications
Beyond Hanalei
The road from Hanalei to the end of civilization winds through mountain streams and one-lane bridges, passing beautiful empty beaches and simple stilt houses on multi-million-dollar plots of land. The road begins to twist and shoot past Lumaha’i Beach 8 [map], made famous in South Pacific. A truly beautiful beach, it is flanked by black lava rock. Despite its daytime popularity, it’s often empty at sunset. Park at the trailhead at the north/west end of Hanalei Bay and take the short, 5-minute hike down for a look.
Around Ha’ena Beach are several wet and dry caves that are actually ancient lava tubes, some extending a mile back – it’s worth pulling off the road to check one out. Another couple of miles further, as the road gets narrower, is the end of the road and Ke’e Beach 9 [map]. Midday is crowded here, and the snorkeling in unbeatable in summer. Join the crowds and snorkel along the mountains edge and out for a glimpse of Na Pali Coast from the water. Leave no valuables in the car.
Bridge over the Wailua River near Hanalei
Steven Greaves/Apa Publications
Kalalau Trail
The Kalalau Trail ) [map] starts here: 11 miles (18km) of gorgeous but strenuous trail snake along the Na Pali coastline, skirting isolated beaches and ocean caves. The first two miles make a great day trip that includes coastal panoramas and takes you to pristine Hanakapiai Valley, where a wide beach exists during the summer (in winter it’s washed away by high surf). Swimming here is never recommended, but a picnic on the beach is. Even non-hikers should walk the first half-mile of the trail to the first lookout along the coast. It will make you want to come back someday and do the whole coast.
Hikers on the Kalalau Trail
Steven Greaves/Apa Publications
Finish your day back in Hanalei, following the same road back. Turn left just past Ching Young Village onto Ahi Street, then right at the stop sign onto Weke Road. Locals pronounce this “vecky” road – the “w” is tricky in Hawai‘ian. Park at the beach part at the end of the road – right on the beach, if you wish, known as Black Pot ! [map]. Then enjoy a sunset jump off the Hanalei Pier. Just do as the local kids do!
Food and Drink
1 Java Kai
4-1384 Kuhio Highway; tel: 808-823 6887; www.javakaihawaii.com; daily 6am–7 pm; $–$$
Java Kai Kapa’a is one of two Java Kais, the other is located in Hanalei. Coffee and baked goods are fresh, the bagels are as good as they get in Hawai‘i, and the café serves as a social gathering place in both towns.
2 Kilauea Bakery and Pau Hana Pizza
2484 Keneke Street; tel: 808-828 2020; www.kilaueabakery.com; daily 6am–9pm; $–$$
This place has something for everyone in the car – make your own pizza, where else is fresh fish an option? Or stop in for coffee and sticky buns in the morning.
3 The Hanalei Dolphin
5-5016 Kuhio Highway; tel: 808-826 6113; www.hanaleidolphin.com; daily 11.30am–9pm, $$–$$$
This has been a local favorite for more than 40 years. As soon as you sit down, you’ll understand why. The atmosphere is pure Hawai‘i – green mountains, rolling river, kayakers paddling by and great food. Try the sushi or poke.
4 The Hanalei Gourmet
5-5161 Kuhio Highway; tel: 808-826 2524; www.hanaleigourmet.com; daily 11am–9.30pm; $$
Once just a small deli without seats, the Hanalei Gourmet is now a full-fledged restaurant that prides itself on serving up health – fresh local produce, dolphin-free tuna, low-sodium meats, fresh-baked bread and homemade dressing in a comfortable, casual atmosphere. Happy hour daily from 3.30–5.30pm.