DISTANCE: 75 miles (120km)
TIME: A full day
START: Lahaina
END: Lahaina
POINTS TO NOTE: This itinerary centers on West Maui, starting and finishing in Lahaina. If staying in South Maui, you’ll intercept the itinerary near Ma’alaea. Park the car when you get to Lahaina and plan to travel around on foot to truly see this little whaling town.
West Maui mountains
‘Iao Valley – once the volcano’s crater – is your first stop. Route 30 heads south out of Lahaina: passing beach parks with clear views across the Au’au Channel of Molokai, Lanai and Kaho’olawe, all part of Maui County. Between November and April, humpback whales (for more information, click here) nurture young in the sheltered waters. Signs point you to Wailuku, Maul’s government seat nestled in the foothills above the more commercial Kahului. Continue on through both.
‘lao Valley State Park
‘lao Valley State Park 1 [map] is the volcano’s ancient crater at road’s end and is idyllic, verdantly green and indubitably wet – 408ins (1,036cm) of rainfall yearly on the 5,788ft (1,764-meter) high Pu’u Kukui nearby; Lahaina, just 8 miles (13km) away by air, only gets 20ins (50cm). A stream skirts ‘lao Needle, the valley’s 1,200ft (366-meter) -high focus, then descends to Wailuku. Follow the path around the park – it’s a short, pleasant walk, even in a misty rain.
‘Iao Valley State Park
Steven Greaves/Apa Publications
Wailuku
Upon return to Wailuku, turn left onto Market Street, then to Vineyard Street, Several so-called antique shops are clustered here, filled mostly with dusty but wonderful old things and tantalizing Hawai‘iana memorabilia. Saeng’s Thai Cuisine, see 1, on Vineyard lures travelers and locals alike. Bailey House Museum 2 [map] is a museum of both traditional Hawai‘ian and missionary life.
South Maui option
Leaving Wailuku, consider a side trip to South Maui, especially Wailea 3 [map] and Makena 4 [map], with beaches and sunshine as good as, if not better, than Ka’anapali. Drive right through Kihei, an uninspired strip of condos and shopping centers. Wailea, however, is a luxury resort town with the extravagant Grand Wailea, the elegant Four Seasons, and the all-suites Kea Lani. For some sly humor, look at the Fernando Botero sculptures at the Grand Wailea Resort 5 [map].
Makena beach
Steven Greaves/Apa Publications
West Maui
Follow Routes 31 and 30 back to West Maui. Save Lahaina for last and head north to the Kapalua Resort town 6 [map], a development Hawai‘i of superb golf, tennis, beaches and a deluxe mix of hotels and condominiums. Try Sansei, see 2, at the Kapalua Shops for superb Japanese fare. Return towards Ka’anapali, developed as Hawai‘i’s first planned resort town nearly 60 years ago. Although over-developed for those seeking a quiet getaway, Ka’anapali draws some of Hawai‘i’s highest occupancies thanks to a mix of quality hotels, a 2-mile (3km) -long stretches of beach, shops, restaurants and a promenade that offers plenty of people-watching.
Kapalua Resort golf course
Steven Greaves/Apa Publications
Whaling capital
Don’t miss Whalers Village 7 [map], home to two first-rate museums, one on whales and one on whaling. South of Ka’anapali, take the first turnoff for Lahaina 8 [map], the Pacific’s whaling capital in the early 1800s. The main street is Front Street, paralleling the waterfront. The Pioneer Inn on Wharf Street and nearby banyan tree are good navigation references. The banyan tree was planted in 1873 and extends its canopy nearly an acre. The Pioneer Inn, built in 1901 for inter-island ferry passengers, has not-so-quiet rooms that are plain but economical. The Lahaina Hotel, packed with collectible antiques, has waterfront views. Available almost everywhere is a brochure outlining a historical walking tour.
Wo Hing Temple
Steven Greaves/Apa Publications
Two suggested stops are the Wo Hing Temple (858 Front Street; http://lahainarestoration.org/wo-hing-museum), built by a Chinese fraternal society in 1912 and now showing old Thomas Edison films of Hawai‘i, and the Baldwin House, across from the Pioneer Inn. At the top end of Front Street is the Lahaina Jodo Mission (12 Ala Moana Street), where the largest Buddha outside of Asia ponders sunsets and yet more sunsets. If sunset approaches, drop anchor. Lahaina is one of the few places in Hawai‘i with several pubs and restaurants right on the water – the best of which is Lahaina Fish Co., see 3, because they catch their own.
Food and Drink
1 Saeng’s Thai Cuisine
2119 W Vineyard Street, Wailuku; tel: 808-244 1567; Mon–Fri 11am–2.30pm and 5–9.30pm, Sat–Sun 5–9.30pm; $$
This Thai restaurant in Wailuku is an oasis in the midst of an urban area. Everything is good, and the range from mild to spicy is completely customizable. This is an especially great option for vegetarians.
2 Sansei
600 Office Road, Kapalua; tel: 808-669 6286; daily 5.15–10pm, Thu–Fri until 1am (over 21s only); $$$–$$$$
Sansei is one of the best dinner dates and late hotspots on Maui. Reservations recommended. Always order one of the specials, and try the panko ahi roll. Late seating on Thursday and Friday involves karaoke – expect to hear some professionals!
3 Lahaina Fish Co.
831 Front Street, Lahaina; tel: 808-661 3472; www.lahainafishco.com; daily 11am–9.30pm; $$–$$$
This is the perfect place to try local fresh fish tacos. The ahi poke tacos are unlike any other fish taco you’ve tried. Perfect casual setting for an evening umbrella drink while watching the sun drop away.