DISTANCE: 85 miles (137km) – out and back
TIME: A full day
START: Kahului Airport
END: Ho’okipa Beach
POINTS TO NOTE: Bring warm clothes; there’s a huge difference in temperature between the beach and Haleakala’s summit, and wear closed shoes – the hikes and ground at the top are made up of rough, ashy gravel. This tour is great for the whole family, no child will forget their first trip up a volcano. Catching sunrise requires a very early departure. Check the time it rises, then leave Kahului 1.5–2 hours before.
Haleakala
Haleakala is a dormant, which means very much not extinct, volcano – whose name literally means “house of the sun.” Depending on what you did or didn’t do last night, consider watching the Pacific’s finest sunrise from the summit (10,023ft/3,040 meters). Allot two hours for the drive up from Kahului Airport 1 [map]. On Route 36, there’s a turnoff for the Haleakala Highway (Route 37) but only take it if you’re chasing a summit sunrise.
Sunrise, Haleakala National Park
Steven Greaves/Apa Publications
Pa’ia
Instead, continue past the airport along Route 36 a few more miles to Pa’ia 2 [map], an old sugar town taken over by windsurfers, new-age folks and their entourages. (From here, Route 36 continues to Hana, for more information, click here.) Be sure to stop here, as this town is full of hidden gems – shops, cafés and the occasional celebrity.
For breakfast, try savory crêpes at Café des Amis, see 1, – the courtyard seating is the best, and the restaurant is wonderful with children.
Begin your ascent up the mountain via beautiful Baldwin Road. On your left is Mana Foods (49 Baldwin Avenue; www.manafoodsmaui.com), one of the oldest family-run natural foods stores in Hawai‘i. Stop by to stock up on snacks to take to the summit.
Laidback Pa’ia
Steven Greaves/Apa Publications
Upcountry
Further along is Makawao 3 [map], a paniolo town settled by Portuguese immigrants working on area ranches. Its rough edges are softening with a scattering of new galleries, shops and eateries. Continue on, as you will come back through Makawao later. Follow the signs for Haleakala via Haleakala Highway. You’re “upcountry” now, on Haleakala’s gentle slopes where the air is often brisk and the mood content. The road, after zigzagging through Makawao and Pukalani, twists like a crazed serpent all the way to Haleakala’s top, taking about an hour more.
Haleakala National Park 4 [map] encompasses the 19-sq-mile (49-sq-km), 3,000ft (910-meter) -deep Haleakala Crater. The crater view is simply breathtaking. Contemplate the crater from two lookouts: Kalahaku A [map] and Pu’u Ula’ula B [map], at then make your way to the summit. For avid hikers, consider Sliding Sands into the crater.
Above the clouds in Haleakala National Park
Steven Greaves/Apa Publications
Barren bloom
Although it feels a bit like the moon, Haleakala is refuge for two unique species: the remarkable silver sword plant with its dagger-shaped silvery leaves and the once endangered Nene, or Hawai‘ian goose. Related to the sunflower, silver sword plants sometimes wait two decades or so before blooming just once. Growing up to a height of 8ft (2.5-meter), silver swords most commonly bloom in summer.
Storefronts in Makawao
Steven Greaves/Apa Publications
Kula
When you come back down, turn left onto Route 377 towards Kula 5 [map]. The climate here is nearly perfect for the beautiful protea flower – you might stop at one of several protea farms in the area. Kula Lodge, see 2, is good for a late breakfast or, if you’ve spent all day, pizza for dinner. Follow Route 37 south as it narrows over idyllic countryside, more like Ireland than tropical Hawai‘i. Alalakeiki Channel lies ahead; you can see Kahoolawe, Lanai, Molokai and a cute half moon islet called Molokini, a popular snorkeling spot.
Wine tasting
Along South Maui’s coast, the resorts of Wailea look rather tiny from this 3,000ft (900-meter) elevation. Just past the rustic general store of Ulupalakua Ranch is the Tedeschi Winery 6 [map], the only commercial winery in Hawai‘i, producing unique island brews like pineapple wine and Ulupalakua Red. After a few minutes in the tasting room, tour the winery and stretch your legs before heading back towards Kula. Stay left on Route 37 towards Pukalani. In Pukalani, tum right to Makawao for an hour or two of browsing or eating. Try Polli’s, see 3, for Mexican food, or Casanova Italian Restaurant, see 4, which has a good takeout deli.
Windsurfers at Ho’okipa
Steven Greaves/Apa Publications
Ho’okipa
Back along the same route to Pa’ia, turn right and follow Route 36 along the coast towards Kahului. A few minutes before Pa’ia, stop at Ho’okipa Beach, or view from a lookout on one of the bluffs. Ho’okipa is a world-class windsurfing spot because of ideal waves and wind. For an equally world-class dinner and drinks, try Mama’s Fish House, see 5, just south of the beach.
Food and Drink
1 Café des Amis
42 Baldwin Avenue, Paia; tel: 808-0579 6323; www.cdamaui.com; daily 8.30am–8.30pm; $$
Serves up Mediterranean and Indian food in a cute courtyard space in the heart of Pa’ia. Order the breakfast crêpes – any time of day. Happy hour from 4–6pm.
2 Kula Lodge
15200 Haleakala Highway, Kula; tel: 808-878 1535; www.kulalodge.com; daily 7am–9 pm; $$–$$$
Perched on the side of Haleakala, Kula Lodge offers wonderful views and great brick-oven pizza. The interior is a mix – part cozy lodge, part hotel lobby-feel, and the service can be slow, however, the view makes it worth your time.
3 Polli’s Mexican Restaurant Maui
1202 Makawao Avenue, Makawao; tel: 808-572 7808; www.pollismexicanrestaurant.com; daily 11am–10pm; $$
Polli’s is known for its Maui avocado guacamole. While Mexican fare in Hawai‘i doesn’t compare with that of California, this is as close as it gets. Casual atmosphere and good food.
4 Casanova Italian Restaurant
1188 Makawao Avenue, Makawao, tel: 808-572 0220; www.casanovamaui.com; deli daily 7.30am–5.30pm, restaurant Mon–Tue and Thu–Sat 11.30am–2pm, Wed 5–9.30pm, with late night live music until 1am; $$–$$$
Perched at the top of Makawao town, this is the only fine dining and late night hang out in town. Some of the local folks dress up for dinner in the dining room, but you won’t be turned away if you don’t.
5 Mama’s Fish House
799 Poho Place, Paia; tel: 808-579 8488; www.mamasfishhouse.com; daily 11am–10 pm; $$$$
Mama’s Fish House is the best place on Maui to enjoy fine dining with a view – and you’ll pay a premium for it. The $16 mai tai is worth every penny, as is the fish curry with opah and ahi.