Chapter 1: The Best of South Korea

We’ve compiled the best of the best of South Korea and we hope you’ll agree. See its rugged mountain ranges slope down to pristine beaches, and experience its bustling, cosmopolitan cities surrounded by farmland. From temple stays and lotus gardens by the Han River to hiking in Seoraksan national park, the bamboo forests of Damyang and the volcanic landscape of Jeju-do, this is a land of beautiful landscapes, rife with traces of its thousands of years of history. Seoul is a celebration; an exciting metropolis that is just the beginning of your journey.

CITIES & TOWNS Seoul is a city to be explored all on its own with its efficient subway system that takes you everywhere from Apgujeong to Changdeokgung. Take the high-speed KTX train to Gyeongju to experience South Korea’s historic sites, or visit the beaches of Busan. Smaller towns hold the greatest rewards, such as the gorgeous islands viewed from the cable car atop Tongyeong and the neatly lined shrubs of green tea growing on soft hillsides in Boseong.

THE COUNTRYSIDE South Korea is best explored when the cherry blossoms bloom in full force in the spring or when the fall (autumn) foliage lights up the landscape with fiery color, especially in Seoraksan. The country’s mountainous terrain is best seen with comfortable shoes and a rental car. Deeper beauty can be found in quieter temples like Hyangilam or the unusual Buddha statues in Unjusa in Jeolla-do.

EATING & DRINKING Each region of the country has its own specialty, based on the season and what’s grown nearby. Beach towns specialize in hwae (raw fish) and other seafood, such as shellfish hand-caught by women divers in Jeju-do. Gangwon-do is known for its potatoes, Jinju for its bibimbap (mixed rice bowl) and Danyang for its garlic. Grill meat on your table, slurp chewy cold naengmyeon (buckwheat noodles) in the summer or just enjoy some spicy boong-uh bbang (goldfish cookies) from a street vendor.

THE COAST Being a peninsula, South Korea has incredibly dramatic coasts. Busan has wide sandy beaches, like Haeundae, while Gangwon-do’s rocky coasts cascade down to dramatic waves. Tiny islands stretch out as far as the eye can see off the southern coasts of Jeolla-do and Gyeongsang-do, including the dinosaur nesting grounds at Goseong. Jeju-do has unforgettable coasts, created when volcanic lava cooled quickly in the surrounding sea.

The Most Unforgettable Travel Experiences

• Staying Overnight in a Buddhist Temple: Many temples in South Korea offer temple stays, where you can enjoy meditation and perhaps a bit of inner peace. Wake up early to the sound of prayers, and cleanse your mind, body, and spirit with a bath and a meal of mountain vegetables. One of the best temples to do a temple stay at is Hwaeomsa in Jeollanam-do.

• Hiking Seoraksan in the Fall (Autumn) Foliage: Seoraksan is South Korea’s most famous national park and you’ll see why when you visit during the fall (autumn). Its rocky cliffs peek out from atop the clouds, while its bubbling waters cascade down steep waterfalls. Between its many mountains lie quiet valleys that are blanketed by snow in the winter and flowering trees in the spring.

• Haggling with a Vendor in an Open Market: South Korea’s markets are bustling centers that can be found along winding alleyways and crowded streets. You haven’t truly experienced South Korea until you’ve elbowed your way through and convinced a vendor to drop the price on something by at least a couple of won. Even if that souvenir is already dirt-cheap, it’s fun to get caught up in the excitement of bargaining. The most famous is Namdaemun Shijang in Seoul.

• Being Naked in Front of Hundreds of Strangers: Okay, so nudity isn’t the real attraction. That would be the traditional bathhouses (or even better, the water parks featuring hot springs) scattered throughout South Korea. Don’t leave the country without relaxing in a hot sauna with a bunch of old ladies (or old men) or getting a water massage at one of South Korea’s many spas.

• Taking a Boat to One of the Many Small Coastal Islands: South Korea’s southern coast is littered with tiny islands, many of which can be seen on a day cruise. One of the best routes is to take a 4-hour ride from Tongyeong, which includes Somaeumul-do and other islands in the Hallyeohaesang National Marine Park.

• Seeing a Traditional Performance: Whether you’re in Seoul or hanging out in a rural village seemingly in the middle of nowhere, there is probably a festival going on nearby. Try to catch a performance of pansori (Korea’s wailing blues), a mask dance, or just the hallowed sound of the bamboo daegeum (flute).

• Visiting the DMZ: The Demilitarized Zone is probably one of the least aptly named places on the planet. A result of the last vestiges of animosity between Soviet Russia and the U.S., Korea has been the only divided country in the world since the Berlin Wall fell.

The Best City Experiences

• Seeing the City Lights Twinkling Below from Namsan (Seoul): The bright white N Seoul Tower perched on top of Namsan gives you the best view of the city. Enjoy an overpriced meal from the revolving restaurant on top or add a key lock to the thousands already left by lovers along the viewing platform.

• Taking a Night Cruise along the Han River (Seoul): The lights of the city’s skyscrapers and bridges reflect on the waters of the Han-gang. Catch a ferry from a dock in Yeouido to see the city from a different perspective.

• Browsing Contemporary Art in Samcheongdong (Seoul): What used to be an undeveloped neighborhood has grown into a hipper cousin to Insadong, the traditional arts district. Take a stroll along the main street to browse tiny boutiques and galleries selling the latest from Seoul’s creatives.

• Enjoying an Al Fresco Cup of Joe (Coffee) on Gwangalli Beach (Busan): The Suyeong district of Gwangalli beach becomes a no-car area on weekends as cafes bring out their outdoor tables. Summer evenings are the best for enjoying live music too, after sundown.

• Shopping in a Multi-level Department Store (throughout South Korea): Enter through the glass doors first thing in the morning and you’ll be greeted by bows from the department store employees lined up to serve you. Shinsegae, Hyundae, Lotte, Galleria, and the like all have floors and floors of fashion, usually sandwiched between a basement food court and sit-down restaurants on the top floors.

The Best Food & Drink Experiences

• Cooking Your Own Meat on a Tabletop Grill: For the full Korean dining experience you really must try galbi (beef short ribs), ssamgyupssal (sliced pork belly), or dak galbi (spicy chicken) that you’ve cooked yourself on a grill at your table.

• Noshing from Namdaemun Market’s Many Street Vendors (Seoul): You haven’t really experienced the charm of an outdoor market until you’ve had a bite to eat from the street vendors in this shijang (market). Fuel up for your next round of shopping with a fresh flatcake hot off the griddle or hoddeok (sweet pancake filled with sugar, cinnamon and other delights).

• Picking Your Catch at Jagalchi Market (Busan): There’s a certain power to deciding which fish is going to get sliced up for your hwae meal. Luckily you just point and the work is done for you. It doesn’t get any fresher than that.

• Drinking Homemade Rice Wine in a Remote Village: If you get a chance to travel to one of South Korea’s small villages, stop under one of the thatched-roof joints to enjoy a gourd full of the milky rice wine, makgeolli, and some good old-fashioned, home-style food.

• Stopping for Seaside Dining on the Rocks at Yongmeoli Haean (Jeju-do): The women of Jeju-do set up impromptu “restaurants” preparing fresh shellfish and other goodies from the sea, right on the rocky coast of Yongmeoli Haean.

• Enjoying a Cup of Tea while Overlooking the City’s Shoppers (Insadong): Seoul’s Insadong district is chock-full of traditional tea shops. Opt for one on the second floor and watch the world pass by on the streets below, while sipping a fragrant brew from a hand-crafted teacup.

• Scaring off Vampires with Garlic in Danyang (Chungcheongbuk-do): In a country known for its garlicky cooking, you have to be a serious garlic-growing region to be known for it. Danyang is the place and one of the best restaurants in the area to enjoy garlic cooked dozens of ways is Jangdali Shikdang.

The Best Way to See South Korea Like a Local

• Shopping for Herbs and Other Unidentifiable Dried Goods from Hwagae Jangteo (Hadong, Gyeongsangnam-do): Local farmers bring their dried wares and other items to sell in this famous market. Local wild green tea, dried herbs, seasonal fruits, and a variety of other goods are sold here in an open market.

• Belting Your Heart Out at a Noraebang (Karaoke): Koreans love to sing and that fact is borne out with the many noraebang (“singing” rooms) that can be found even in the smallest of towns throughout the country. Take a group of friends and enjoy a night of karaoke in a private room.

• Sweating Your Troubles Away in a Jjimjilbang (Korean Spa): Before Koreans had baths in every home, they visited the local bathhouse at least once a week. Even now, South Koreans love to go to jjimjilbang to sit in saunas, get a massage, or just take a nap. Those on an extreme budget can even spend the night in one, although the giant, public rooms with hard wooden floors are anything but comfortable.

• Hiking the Baekdu-daegan (or at Least Part of It): The Baekdu-daegan is the mountain range that is considered the “spine” of the Korean Peninsula. Although it’s not possible to traverse the entire line (now that the DMZ cuts off the trail that starts in Baekdusan in North Korea), it’s still possible to traverse this spiritually important mountain starting from Seoraksan and making your way down to Jirisan. Although it would take months to actually walk the 1400-km (870-mile) trail, it’s still possible to visit the various ranges and feel the energy of the mountains.

• Having Noodles, Fried Chicken, or Dumplings Delivered: South Koreans enjoy having everything from yangnyeom dak (seasoned fried chicken) to jjajangmyeon (black-bean noodles) delivered to their homes. In the summer, you can even have them deliver food to your particular umbrella in crowded Haeundae Beach or even while you’re having a romantic stroll along the Hang-gang. Even the McDonalds in the country will bring your bulgogi hamburger combo right to your door.

The Best Family Experiences

• Comparing Dinosaur Footprints to Yours at the Nesting Grounds in Goseong (Gyeongsangnam-do): This coastal site was the former nesting ground for a variety of dinosaurs. See the imprinted footprints and fossilized eggs during low-tide as the waves splash onto the rocks.

• Trying Your Hand at a Traditional Game at the Korean Folk Village in Suwon (Gyeonggi-do): The restored folk village in Suwon, the Hanguk Minseokchon, is a great way to see how Koreans used to live. Visit on a weekend or holiday to try your hand at some archery, wooden seesaws, or other old-fashioned games.

• Spending the Day at Everland (Gyeonggi-do): One of the largest and best amusement parks in South Korea, there are plenty of rides and amusements for the whole family. They have a small zoo with white tigers and monkeys, a white-water rafting ride, and a variety of festivals that change with the seasons. In the summer visit the water park next door, Carribean Bay.

• Splashing Around in the Seorak Waterpia: While the kids splash around in the water park, the adults can take a relaxing soak in the mineral hot springs. After enough water fun, the whole family can enjoy a bit of ice cream.

• Visiting the Lying Stone Buddhas in Unjusa (Hwasun, Jeollanam-do): This temple is not only is easy to reach (no giant mountains to climb), but also houses the most fascinating array of Buddhist statuary in the country.

The Best Historic Experiences

• Touring the Huwon (Rear Garden) in Changdeokgung (Seoul): If you want to see how Korean royalty used to live, this palace is a prime example. Its famed Huwon (“Rear Garden”) alone is worth the visit.

• Seeing the Annual Memorial Ceremony for Dead Joseon Kings in Jongmyo (Seoul): There’s a reason this myo (royal shrine) is a World Heritage site—it’s the most important one in the country and is home to the longest traditional wooden building left in Korea. Try to time your visit for the spectacular annual memorial ceremony for the kings of Korea’s longest running dynasty (usually the first Sunday in May).

• Visiting the Prehistoric Dolmen on Ganghwa-do (Gyeonggi-do): This island off the coast of Incheon is home to about 80 dolmen (prehistoric rock tombs), dating back thousands of years.

• Listening to the Song of Two Lovers in Gwanghallu-won (Namwon, Jeollabuk-do): Home of the legend of Chunhyang (a traditional love story about a nobleman’s son who falls in love with a courtesan’s daughter), this garden is not only a mecca for lovers, but the spot where pansori made its debut. Try to visit between April and October and catch the free performances at noon.

• Walking along the Stone Fortress in Suwon (Gyeongg-do): The best restored fortress in the country, the Suwon Hwaseong’s impressive wall has historic gates and towers climbing a slope in the middle of the now-modern city.

• Writing a Poem in Dosan Seowon (Andong, Gyeongsangbuk-do): Established in 1574, this Confucian academy is a nice place for quiet reflection and to soak in the mountain scenery. Take off your shoes and climb onto the wooden platform to see if inspiration comes.

The Best Outdoor Experiences

• Biking the Historic Sites in Gyeongju (Gyeongsangbuk-do): The city of Gyeongju is like one giant museum and the sites can be visited easily on two wheels. The roads between Bulguksa, Seokguram, Anapji Pond, and the rest are nicely laid out for cyclists. The city can be seen in its entirety in 4 to 5 days.

• Paragliding Anywhere in South Korea: With literally hundreds of peaks throughout the country, South Korea is the perfect country from which to paraglide. Those who want an expansive space can launch from one of the many parasitic volcanoes in Jeju-do (). From Seoul, the closest location from which to launch is Yangpyeong ().

• Hiking the Many Challenging Courses in Jirisan (Jeollabuk-do/Gyeongsangnam-do): Of all the mountainous national parks in South Korea, Jirisan is the most favored amongs serious climbers. Choose from its many peaks and gorgeous scenery, best viewed in the fall.

• Snow Skiing at High 1 Ski Resort in Jeongseon (Gangwon-do): The country’s most environmentally friendly ski resort also has the best courses for skiiers of all levels, but it’s especially favored by advanced skiiers.

• Walking the Easy Trails in Cheongyangsan (Gyeongsangbuk-do): Located a stone’s throw from Andong, Cheongyangsan Provincial Park was best known as the place where high priests and scholars lived. Its easy trails make it simple for the less fit of us to still enjoy the fresh air.

• Waterskiing in Cheongpyeong (Gyeonggi-do): Fight the sweltering summer heat with a bit of wet fun, just an hour outside of Seoul. Although the weather will be a bit chillier, waterskiing in the fall is nice in order to enjoy the scenery.

• Stopping to Smell the Flowers at the Korea National Arboretum (Gyeonggi-do): Located in Gwangneum forest, you have to make reservations at least 5 days in advance to see this well-preserved arboretum. It’s well worth the trouble to see the 15 different forest areas within this garden and research center.

The Best Free & Dirt Cheap Experiences

• Strolling between the Lotus Flowers at Dumulmeoli (Gyeonggi-do): Where two waters flow into the Han River is a beautiful lotus garden and a nice walking path where you can enjoy the blooming lotuses in the heat of summer. Park under the bridge for free.

• Enjoying the Full Moon from Dalmaji Gogae near Haeundae Beach (Busan): A narrow path between Haeundae and Songjeong beaches leads to a small hill where you can see both the moon and the ocean from inside Haewoljeong, a tiny pavilion built there in honor of two folk lovers, who got married there during Daeboreum (the “Great Full Moon”) in December.

• Feeling the Ocean Breezes from Sinseondae (Geoje-do, Gyeongsangnam-do): Although several Korean TV and film drama productions left their sets and buildings here, they still didn’t ruin the views of the surrounding ocean and rocky coast on this southern island off the coast of Gyeongsangnam-do. Best to visit in the spring when the yellow rapeseed flowers light up the hillside.

• Driving the Coastal Road, Hunhwa-ro, in Gagneung (Gangwon-do): Visit Gyeongpodae beach, then take a leisurely drive on the coastal route before enjoying a cup of joe on Café Street in Gagneung.

• Seeing the View of the Seonam Village in Yeongwol (Gangwon-do): Locals say that the view of this small village on the water is like looking at a miniaturized version of the entire Korean Peninsula. See it from Seogang Observatory or walk down into the village itself for a bit of small town flavor.

The Best Temple Experiences

• Catching the Sunrise at Hyangilam (Suncheon, Jeollabuk-do): Perched on a precarious mountainside, this former hermitage is now a temple complex. Wake up early to climb up its steep steps and catch the sunrise over the ocean. You’ll also miss the bus-loads of tourists, who usually arrive in the late afternoon.

• Climbing up to see the Bodhisattva of Compassion at Bori-am (Namhae, Gyeongsangnam-do): One of the three main holy sites in the country, believers come to this hermitage to pray to the Bodhisattva of Compassion. If you’re pure of heart, your wishes will be granted. Even if you’re not, you’ll be treated to a spectacular view.

• Listening to the Sound of the Drums at Sundown in Haeinsa (Hapcheon, Gyeongsang-do): Home of the famous Tripitaka Koreana (Buddhist scripture handcarved on hundreds of wooden blocks), this famed temple (and UNESCO World Heritage site) sits in a deep forest. Try to go in the late afternoon to see the tripitaka (through locked slats), but stay past sunset to hear the sound of the gong echoing through the valleys.

• Hiking the Rocky Trail to Cheongyangsa (Gyeongsangbuk-do): Although the temple complex itself is not the most impressive in the country, it’s strategically located on the side of the Cheongnyangsan. The scenic walk to the temple culminates as you turn the corner to see the temple greeting you from its mountain perch.

• Eating Feast Noodles at Naksansa (Gangwon-do): Although this expansive temple was largely destroyed by a fire in 2008, a bright new temple has been constructed in its place. The cliffside Hongryeon-am hermitage is included in its grounds, so visit during lunchtime and be treated to a humble bowl of janchi gooksu (feast noodles).

The Best Festivals & Celebrations

• The Day the Buddha Came (aka Buddha’s Birthday; throughout the country): During what is sometimes referred to as the “Festival of Lanterns,” every temple in the country gets lit up like a Christmas tree in celebration of the birth of the Enlightened One.

• Baekje Cultural Festival (Buyeo or Gongju): Every October, this historical event celebrates the great Baekje kings with over 100 traditional performances and events throughout the area.

• Boryeong Mud Festival (Daecheon, Chungcheongnam-do): Held on the muddy beaches of Daecheon every July, this is basically organized mud play. Supposedly good for your skin, too, the dirty activities include mud wrestling, mud slides, and making mud soap. Mud pies are optional.

• Busan International Film Festival (BIFF, Busan): The largest and most renowned of Korea’s film festivals, it is a wonderful showcase for current films from throughout Asia. Usually held some time in October.

• Andong Mask Dance Festival (Andong, Gyeongsangnam-do): Although the highlight of the festival is the Korean talchum (mask dance), performers from other countries show off their masked splendor as well.

• Gangneung Danoje Festival (Gangneung, Gangwon-do): Celebrating the traditional “Dano” (the fifth day of the fifth month of the Lunar year), it is one of the few places where you can see traditional shamanistic rituals. It usually happens some time in June.