Chapter 3: Suggested Itineraries in South Korea
Seoul, Busan, Gyeongju, and even Jeju-do are well traveled, and most tour companies to South Korea will cover those areas. But South Korea is an exciting place to explore on your own, so we’ve provided a few itineraries, most of which don’t stray too far from the major cities, to help you plan your trip.
Bear in mind that although South Korea is small in land mass, the hilly terrain and lack of major roads increase travel time between locations and attractions. Although you can rent a car, it may not be the most economical option, unless you’re planning to go well off the beaten track. The best ways to get around are by rail and by bus.
Trains in South Korea are cheap, reliable, and a comfortable way to travel. High-speed KTX trains will help you save time. Consider buying a KTX pass before you arrive, as it will save you money, too (see the “Getting Around” section in chapter 12).
In general, trains will take you only to stations in major cities, but not to many temples and other remote locations. Luckily, the bus system is quite efficient and all towns have at least one bus that goes to even the most remote locations. Infrequent bus routes require a bit of pre-planning on your part. A combination of train and bus travel will probably be your best bet for far-flung areas.
South Korea’s UNESCO World Heritage sites
Jongmyo (Royal Tombs) The oldest Confucian royal shrines left in the world are housed in the Jeongjeon in Seoul. Originally built in 1395 (during the reign of King Taejo), the Jeongjeon had seven rooms and was one of the longest buildings in Asia at that time. More and more rooms were added until there were a total of 19 shrine rooms—one to house memorial tablets for each of the Joseon kings. After it was destroyed by invading Japanese forces during the Imjin Waeran (1592–98; ), a new complex was built in 1601. Each of the rooms is simple in design, as is standard for Confucian shrines. The best time to visit is during the annual memorial ceremonies usually held on the first Sunday in May.
Changdeokgung The best preserved of Seoul’s palaces, it dates to the 15th century. The Biwon, or Secret Garden, is an elaborate flora-lover’s dream, located behind the main palace in the back of the complex, and is a must-see. Be sure to reserve the separate tour to see the gardens, complete with English-speaking guides.
Haeinsa and the Tripitaka Koreana This lovely temple on the slopes of Gayasan houses the Tripitaka Koreana, the world’s most complete collection of Buddhist scriptures. Engraved in Hanja (Chinese script) on over 80,000 wooden blocks, the birch-wood blocks date from 1237 to 1248. The temple is located in Gyeongsang-do and can be easily accessed from Busan or Ulsan.
Seokguram and Bulguksa The Seokguram grotto is part of the Bulguksa temple complex in Tohamsan, just outside of downtown Gyeongju. Built in the 8th century, this Buddha statue and its surrounding bodhisattvas and arhats (Buddhist saints) are impressive in their domed grotto.
Gyeongju The entire city of Gyeongju, the former capital of the Shilla Kingdom, is a historic site. It includes temples, palace ruins, royal tombs, pagodas, Buddhist art, and the world’s oldest celestial observatory.
Hwaseong This large 18th-century military fortress once surrounded the city of Suwon. Built to protect the tomb of King Chongjo’s father, it still sits majestically overlooking the now-modern city.
Gochang, Hwasun, and Ganghwa Dolmen Sites The hundreds of dolmens (stone tomb markers) found at the prehistoric burial grounds near Gochang, Hwasun, and Ganghwa are the largest concentrations of such dolmens in the world.
Jeju-do and Lava Tubes On the volcanic island of Jeju, there are a number of natural lava tubes originating from the Geomunoreum volcano. Also part of the natural heritage designation is Seongsan Ilchulbong, a peak formed by a volcanic eruption about 100,000 years ago.
South Korea in 1 Week
South Korea in 1 or 2 Weeks
Although a week may seem like a long time, you’ll just barely scratch the surface of the country in 7 days. Still, you’ll be able to experience the hustle and bustle of the capital city, explore ancient palaces and other historic sites, and enjoy South Korea’s endlessly fascinating culture.
Day 1: Arrive in Seoul
Arrive at Incheon Airport and check into your hotel. Have dinner and see a show at Korea House ★★ or grab a quick bite and take a stroll on Samcheongdong-gil to see the traditional houses converted to galleries and cafes. If you get a chance, soak in a bath or sweat away your fatigue in a sauna at your hotel or at one of Seoul’s many bathhouses.
Day 2: Explore Seoul
Tour Changdeokgung Palace ★★★ —reserve a guided tour in advance. English tours are held Tuesday to Sunday at 11:30am and 2:30pm. Then take a walk around the city’s cultural street, Insadong ★★★, where you may want to stop for a cup of Korean tea or lunch of traditional temple cuisine (always vegetarian, and usually made with seasonal ingredients) at Sanchon ★★★. Then, squeeze your way between crowded stalls at Namdaemun Market. Enjoy a quiet dinner or, if you want a livelier night out, take a dinner cruise on the Han River . If you can’t sleep, head for late-night (or early-morning) shopping action at Dongdaemun Market ★★★.
Day 3: Take a Tour of the DMZ ★★★
Allow a whole day to take an organized tour to Panmunjeom, also known as the Demilitarized Zone. If you’re not too exhausted upon your return, head to the top of Namsan and the N Seoul Tower to admire the view of the city lights.
Day 4: Suwon Fortress ★★★ & Korean Folk Village ★
Take a subway to Suwon and get a ticket to the Korean Folk Village at the tourist information booth. Free shuttles run every hour on the half-hour. Explore the village and linger over a lunch of traditional food like janchi gooksu (feast noodles, a simple somen noodle soup with broth and a bit of seasoning), nokdu buchingae (flatcakes made from ground mung beans), naengmyeon (buckwheat noodles in a chilled beef broth), and makgeolli (a milky, unrefined, traditional rice wine), served as you sit at outdoor tables. Take a free shuttle back and catch a bus to the Suwon Hwaseong. Stretch your legs and work off lunch with a nice walk around the stone fortress. Enjoy a dinner of the famous Suwon galbi (marinated short ribs) and then head back to Seoul for a good night’s rest.
Day 5: Transit to Gyeongju
Allow half a day to travel to Gyeongju (going by either train or bus takes 4 1/2 hr.). Explore some of downtown’s historic sites, such as Tumuli Park ★★★, where the Shilla kings are buried, and Cheomseongdae Observatory. If you get a chance, try one of the Gyeongju’s sweet bread snacks such as hwangnambbang (bread filled with a sweet red-bean filling).
Day 6: Explore Gyeongju
If you explored the downtown area the previous evening, pick up something for lunch and take the Gyeongju City Tour Bus to explore points farther out (which are difficult to see individually), including Seokguram Grotto ★★★, where a stone Buddha sits serenely inside a man-made granite cave, and Bulguksa Temple ★★★. Take an evening train or bus to Busan.
Day 7: A Brief Visit of Busan
Finish your whirlwind trip with a morning walk on one of Busan’s sandy beaches, an exploration of Jagalchi Market ★★★ and a lunch of hwae (raw fish) fresh from the water. Catch a high-speed KTX train back to Seoul for your flight back home.
South Korea in 2 Weeks: Culture & Natural Beauty
Since you’ll already have explored Seoul and Busan, South Korea’s two major cities, an extra week will allow you to spend some time getting a better sense of the beautiful countryside and historic sites that South Korea has to offer.
Days 1–7
Follow the “South Korea in 1 Week” itinerary outlined above.
Day 8: Extra Time in Busan
A week’s extension allows you to spend an extra day in Busan, exploring the city’s charms and enjoying its nightlife. Visit the dragon temple, Yonggungsa ★★, with its rocky cliffs overlooking the sea, or the ancient temple, Beomeosa ★★. For a bit of relaxation, try the hot springs at Heosimcheong Spa ★★★. Enjoy dinner overlooking the bridge from one of the cafes on Gwangalli Beach ★★ or take a nighttime stroll on the boardwalk in Haeundae ★★.
Days 9 & 10: Korea’s Volcanic Island
Catch a morning flight to Jeju-do ★★★ (see chapter 11). If possible, pick up a rental car at the airport. Otherwise, take a bus to your hotel and check in before heading over to the Jungmun Resort Complex. Explore the area, including the Yeomiji Botanical Garden and Jusangjeolli Cliffs. Visit the Jeju Folk Village ★★, check out Manjang Cave, and either enjoy the scenery around Seongsan Ilchulbong ★★★ or hike part of South Korea’s highest peak, Hallasan.
Day 11: Back to the Mainland & Tranquil Haeinsa ★★★
Take a flight back to Busan or Daegu. Grab a quick lunch before catching a bus to South Korea’s most celebrated temple, Haeinsa ★★★, in Gayasan. Do an overnight temple stay here or overnight in Daegu.
Day 12: Traditional Aristocratic Culture
Take a bus or train to Andong and explore the Hahoe Folk Village ★★★ and the Mask Museum ★. If you don’t mind roughing it a bit, overnight in a hanok (traditional house) inside the folk village and enjoy an old-fashioned Korean meal.
Days 13 & 14: South Korea’s Scenic Beauty
Take a bus to Donghae or Samcheok and spend the afternoon exploring the beaches and the caves there. Spend the night nearby and the next day take a bus to Seoraksan ★★★. Spend the day hiking the various trails, exploring the natural beauty of the area and its many waterfalls and valleys. Take a bus back to Seoul to catch your flight home.
South Korea with Kids: A 1-Week Tour
South Korea with Kids
Although traveling with children can be a challenge, South Korea can be truly rewarding fun for the whole family. Koreans take their children everywhere and at most attractions those 5 and under get in free. You’ll only get a small glimpse of what the country has to offer in such a short time, but the little ones will have something to look forward to when they return.
Day 1: Arrive in Seoul
Arrive at Seoul’s Incheon Airport and take a limousine bus to your hotel. Depending on what time your flight gets in, head on down to Namdaemun Market and browse the live seafood stalls or the alley for stationery and toys.
Day 2: Discover Seoul
Hop on the city’s efficient subway system (kids 5 and under ride free) and head over to Gyeongbokgung ★★. If you time it right, you can see the changing of the royal guards, which is entertaining for both kids and adults. Nearby is the National Museum of Korea ★★★, which has a children’s museum inside with hands-on exhibits.
Day 3: A Taste of Korea’s Past
Take the subway to Suwon and visit the Korean Folk Village ★, where the children can participate in the many folk games from the past that are played here. Lunch in the village and then take a bus to the Suwon Hwaseong ★★★, where you can ride the dragon train around the fortress wall. Have dinner at one of Suwon’s galbi restaurants, where you can cook meat on your own tabletop grill.
Day 4: A Day of Play
Head over to one of the Seoul-area amusement parks: Lotte World, Everland, or the Seoul Grand Park. Spend the day riding the rides and enjoying the other amusements.
Day 5: Fun Away from the Big City
Take a morning train or bus to Gangneung and spend the afternoon on one of its many beaches or exploring the seaside town. Take a break for a hands-on art adventure at Haslla Art World, where you can create your own masterpieces and explore the gardens.
Day 6: A Day of Water Fun
After your first 5 days, you’re probably exhausted and, if you’re visiting in the summer, pretty hot. So take a bus up to Seorak Waterpia (Seorak Water Park) ★ at the Hanhwa Resort and spend the day soaking your aches away while the kids enjoy the water slides and other splashy fun.
Day 7: A Last Bit of Nature Before Heading Home
Spend the morning hiking one of the easier trails in Seoraksan ★★★ and catch a bus back to Seoul. If you have a long wait for your flight check out the Incheon Airport’s Traditional Culture Experience (on the third floor, next to gate 40), where kids can make traditional fans and other Korean handicrafts. The staff speak English, and entry is free daily from 7am to 10pm.
South Korea’s Sacred Sites in 11 Days
South Korea’s Sacred Sites
Since Buddhism was first introduced on the peninsula over 1,600 years ago, hundreds of thousands of temples have been built. Although the rise of Neo-Confucianism during the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1910) threatened to drive the religion out, Buddhism survived. There are now over 11,000 temples (many of them small) located throughout South Korea. Many are hidden retreats perched on the slopes of mountains, overlooking craggy cliffs, or simply sitting pretty next to running streams. This tour will allow you to get a good overview of some of the very best.
Day 1: Arrive in Seoul
Arrive at Incheon Airport and take the limousine bus into the city. Take the afternoon or evening to get acclimated to the city by enjoying a simple meal or a cup of tea at a traditional tea shop in Insadong.
Day 2: A Bit of Peace in the City
Enjoy a tour of Gyeongbokgung ★★, Changdeokgung ★★★, and Biwon (Secret Garden) ★★★. Have a lunch of vegetarian temple cuisine at Sanchon ★★★. Stroll around the Insadong area and visit a temple in the city, such as Hwagyesa or Bongeunsa.
Day 3: Arrive at a Mountain Temple
Take a bus to Donghae and have lunch at one of the many restaurants there. Overnight at Samhwasa as part of the temple stay, which includes a tea ceremony, tour of the temple, traditional vegetarian fare, and other programs such as Zen meditation or a refreshing walk in the predawn hours.
Day 4: Spend the Day in Nature
Take a bus into Seoraksan ★★★ and explore the natural beauty of the area. Visit Sinheungsa ★ (#), one of the oldest Zen meditation temples in the world, and Naksansa ★★★ to see how a temple recovers after a fire. Overnight in Seoraksan, and enjoy a sauna or a soak at a public bath.
Day 5: The Historic Center
Catch a bus to Gyeongju and explore Bulguksa ★★★ and the Seokguram Grotto ★★★, one of Asia’s nicest Buddhist shrines. Overnight in Gyeongju.
Day 6: Explore Korea’s Buddhist Heritage
If you want to explore some hidden Buddhist treasures nestled in mountain ranges and valleys, take a bus or taxi to Namsan. Be sure to pack a lunch and bring plenty to drink because you’ll spend at least 4 to 5 hours hiking. You’ll be rewarded with over 100 temples or temple ruins, and dozens of stone pagodas and Buddha statues. Take a bus or train to Busan to overnight there.
Day 7: Bustling Busan
Wake up early to catch the sunrise at Yonggungsa ★★, with its rocky cliffs overlooking the sea. Then head over to ancient Beomeosa and enjoy its lovely surroundings. Enjoy a seafood dinner in Haeundae or Gwangalli Beach.
Day 8: Haeinsa ★★★
Catch a bus to Korea’s most celebrated temple, Haeinsa ★★★ in Gayasan to see the Tripitaka Koreana, Buddhist scripture carved on thousands of wooden blocks. Do a temple stay there or overnight in Jirisan.
Day 9: Visit One of South Korea’s Holiest Mountains
Take in the early-morning fog and low clouds encircling the mountains. Visit one of Jirisan’s many temples, such as Hwaeomsa ★★★ and Songgwangsa ★★★, one of the three Buddhist “jewels” in South Korea. If you have a chance, stop by the Boseong Tea Plantation for picturesque landscapes and some green tea to cleanse your mind and body.
Day 10: Seaside Views of Bori-am ★★★
Buses run infrequently here, so plan accordingly. Head to Namhae and hike up to Bori-am ★★★, one of South Korea’s three major holy sites. Overnight in Namhae or nearby Tongyeong.
Day 11: Seoul Again
Take a bus back to Seoul and enjoy the afternoon exploring the markets, or stop by Jogyesa, picking up some Buddhist souvenirs at a shop nearby before heading to the airport.