Chapter 7: Jeolla-do

Both economically poor and rich in natural beauty, Jeolla-do is one of Korea’s most fascinating regions. Located in the southwestern part of the peninsula, it is bordered on the south by the East China Sea and on the west by the Yellow Sea. Perhaps the poorest of the country’s provinces, due to the area’s history of conflict with the central government (it has long been viewed—and some would say has long behaved—like Seoul’s rebellious little brother), Jeolla-do has largely been left behind as the rest of South Korea has boomed. Although this is not so great for the people who live there, it is wonderful for visitors. Not only will you get to experience the country’s rural past, but you’ll get to see wonderful scenery not yet ruined by huge highways, high-rise apartments, and industrial complexes.

The irregular coastline, numerous tiny islands, and a vast array of tidal flatlands, make for ideal fishing and diving conditions. The southern coastline has some of the best scenic ocean views anywhere in the country. Some of South Korea’s most picturesque towns are in Jeolla-do. Don’t miss the seaside town of Yeosu and the beautiful tea plantation of Boseong. If time and weather permit, take a boat out to one of the many small islands that fade into the distance off the southern coast.The people from Jeolla-do take pride in their food. Ask anyone from the region and they’ll say that the best food in South Korea can be found here. Historically, Jeolla-do is the ancestral home of members of the royal Yi family (of the Joseon Dynasty). Their refined cooking techniques have been handed down for centuries. Even the simplest of dishes seems to have been made with extra care.

Jeolla-do

Jeonju

Jeonju

Perched on the edge of the fertile Honam plains, Jeonju is the capital city of Jeollabuk-do (North Jeolla Province). Famous for its regional cuisine and historic buildings, the city has long been regarded a spiritual center of the Joseon Dynasty, since Jeonju was home to the Yi family, which produced a long line of Joseon kings. It was also the capital for the ancient Baekje Kingdom, making this a spot rich with history.

This capital city has a bit of something for everyone: Historical sites and parks, gorgeous mountain scenery, and the remains of ancient Buddhist temples in the surrounding hills. And after you’ve exhausted yourself exploring, you can refuel with some of the best food in South Korea.

Well known for its hanji (traditional rice paper), there is even a paper museum, and an annually held Jeonju Paper Culture Festival ( 063/210-8103), which includes a fashion show of couture all made from paper. More contemporary events include the Jeonju International Film Festival ( 063/288-5433; http://eng.jiff.or.kr), a small but growing festival showcasing films from South Korea and abroad, held in the spring.

Essentials

Getting There Gunsan Airport (KUV, http://www.airport.co.kr/doc/gunsan_eng) is the closest airfield to Jeonju. Only Korean Airlines (www.koreanair.com) and Eastar Jet (www.eastarjet.com) offer flights to/from Jeju-do. From Gunsan, you have to take a bus to Jeonju. The nonstop bus runs depending on flight schedules, takes about 90 minutes, and costs ₩4,500 one-way.

You can also take a train from Seoul’s Yongsan Sation, departing daily from 5:40am to 10:45pm. Fares vary from ₩16,800 for a Saemaeul train, ₩2500 for a Mugunghwa train and ₩30,600 for a KTX train. Most trains take about 3 to 3 1/2 hours (2 hours for the KTX) to get to Jeonju. From the south, you can take a northbound train from Yeosu—the first train of the day departs at 5:10am and the last train leaves at 9:30pm. Most northbound trains cost ₩9,600 to ₩21,100 and the ride lasts about 2 1/2 hours. The train station is in the northeastern part of Jeonju. You can contact the Korea National Railroad (www.korail.com) for more info.

From Seoul’s Express Bus Terminal, buses to Jeonju run every 10 min., from 5:30am to 9:30pm with fares ranging from ₩12,200 to ₩17,900. Buses also run from Seoul’s Nambu Terminal every 30 min., from 6:10am to 8:30pm and from Seoul’s Sangbong Terminal five times daily from 6am to 6pm. The ride lasts about 3 hours. Express buses also run to and from Sangbong, Sungnam, Busan, Ulsan, Daegu, Gwangju, Daejeon, Goyang, and Incheon. You can also take an airport limousine bus directly to and from Incheon Airport (at bus stops no. 9C). Buses run daily from 6:30am to 10:30pm and run every 30 to 60 min. The 4-hour ride costs ₩29,000.

Getting Around Unfortunately, none of Jeonju’s city buses stops right at the bus terminal ( 062/277-1572, 767-2 Geumam-dong, Jeonju-si), but the walk to the main road to catch a bus is quite short. The good thing is that the city bus system is widespread and efficient, even providing service to nearby towns. There are also plenty of taxis available to be flagged down on the street or waiting by the train or bus stations. The base fare starts at ₩1,200 and goes up based on time and distance.

Visitor Information There is a tourist information center ( 063/288-0105; http://tour-eng.jeonju.go.kr/index.sko) in “Reunion Square” off Jeonju Train Station, at the Jeonju Express Bus Terminal ( 063/281-2739), at Gyeonggijeon ( 063/281-2891), and at the Jeonju Hanok Maeul ( 063/282-1330). They all have English speakers and are open daily 9am to 6pm. The city’s official website is http://www.jeonju.go.kr/open_content/en/main_page.jsp.

Exploring Jeonju

Gyeonggijeon (Gyeongi Shrine) MONUMENT Built in 1410, this shrine houses the portrait of King Taejo, first emperor of the Joseon Dynasty, as well as successive other kings. Funerary tablets for both the king and his queen are enshrined here. Although part of the structure was destroyed during the Imjin Waeran, the building was renovated in 1614 and still stands today.

102 Pungnam-dong 3(sam)-ga, Wansan-gu, Jeonju-si. 063/287-1330. Free admission. Mar–Oct daily 9am–6pm; Nov–Feb daily 9am–5pm. From the Jeonju Train Station take bus no. 79 or 119 and get off at Jeongdong Cathedral. From the Jeonju Bus Terminal, take bus no. 70 and get off at Jeongdong Cathedral. It’s about a 5-min. walk from the cathedral. It’s about a 15–20 min. taxi ride from train or bus stations.

Gyeonhwon Palace Site RUINS This is the site where King Gyeonhwon decided to build a palace about 1,300 years ago, during the Baekje Kingdom. Legend has it that he stayed here and intercepted the crops and taxes headed for Gyeongju, the capital of the Shilla Kingdom. Later, during the HuBaekje (Later Baekje) period, General Gyeonhwon (who, rather confusingly, has the same name as the king) attempted to establish a capital here, but he was ultimately defeated by the Shilla Kingdom (see chapter 2). Although the palace is no longer here, some older stones and relics remain on-site.

San 9-1, Gyo-dong, Wansan-gu, Jeonju. 063/281-2553. Free admission. Daily 24 hr.

Jeonju Hanok Maeul (Traditional Village) ★★ HISTORIC SITE With over 800 traditional houses, this ancient village retains its former charm, while the rest of the city has industrialized around it. Unlike buildings in other traditional Korean villages, the roofs here have a slight curvature, adding to the place’s unique beauty. For a full experience, you can spend the night in one of the traditional homes (see “Where to Stay,” for more info).

Pungnam-dong/Gyo-dong, Wonsan-gu, Jeonju. 063/282-1330. http://hanok.jeonju.go.kr. From the Intercity Bus Terminal, take bus no. 211, 221, 231, 241, 251, or 291 bound for Nambu Market; get off at Jeongdong Cathedral or Jeonbuk Art Center. From the Express Bus Terminal, take bus 5-1 or 79.From the train station, take bus no. 12, 60, 79, 109, 119, 142, 508, 513, 536, 542, or 546 (25-min. ride); get off at Jeongdong Cathedral or Jeonbuk Art Center. It’s about a 10-min. walk from the bus stop.

Jeonju Historical Museum MUSEUM This modern museum’s exhibits illustrate many of the rebellions and turmoil of recent Korean history, from the Donghak revolution onward. It’s best to visit first thing in the morning or in the afternoon since the building is usually overrun with visiting schoolchildren from 10am to noon on weekdays.

Hyoja-dong, Wansan-gu, Jeonju (right across from the Jeonju National Museum, below). 063/228-6485 or 6. http://jeonju.museum.go.kr (Korean). Free admission. Tues–Sun 9am–6pm (closes at 5pm in winter); last admission 30 min. before closing. Closed Jan 1.

Jeonju National Museum MUSEUM The research and preservation center for Jeollabuk-do’s rich cultural history, it is home to over 24,000 artifacts, only a fraction of which are on actual display. Although the exhibition space is small, it is a great place to see local finds from the Baekje period as well as artifacts from the lesser-known Seonsa and Mahan kingdoms. They also have a sizeable collection of Buddhist art, ceramics, and folk items from the area.

2-900, Hyoja-dong, Wansan-gu, Jeonju-si. 063/223-5651. http://jeonju.museum.go.kr. Admission free. Tues–Fri 9am–6pm; Sat–Sun 9am–7pm (last admission 1 hr. before closing). Closed Monday and Jan 1. Take bus no. 9, 31, 49, 61, 62, 161, 354, 378, 554, 559, 644, 684, 807, 814, 816, 817, 834, 837, 838, 839, 855, or 866, and get off at the Jeonju National Museum.

Pungnammun (South Gate) HISTORIC SITE This impressive gate is the only surviving section of the wall that once surrounded the city. Originally built to serve as one of 4 gates in 1389, the present structure was built in 1768 and renovated in 1979. Not only is it a relic from the Joseon Dynasty, but it is also the site where the conflict between Catholicism and Confucianism was played out. The first Korean Catholic martyr was executed here in 1790 for his religious beliefs (see box below).

83-4 Jeon-dong, Wansan-gu, Jeonju-si. 063/221-5553 or 2114. Free admission. From the bus terminal take a bus bound for Nambu market no. 211, 221, 231, 251, 220, 229, 241, 291, 501, 502, or 700 and get off at Pungnammun. From the train station, take bus no. 118, 119, 211, 221, 231, or 241 and get off at Jeondong Cathedral.

Catholicism in Korea

Long isolated, Korea was first exposed to Christianity when envoys to Beijing brought books back home with them. In 1784, a Chinese priest arrived, and a French priest followed in 1836. Although a small percentage of Koreans were intrigued by Catholicism and converted, the Joseon Dynasty saw the religion as a tdanger. Threatened by the fervor of these newly converted Catholics, the Confucian government cracked down hard, and there were multiple mass executions of believers. The most well known of these are the Sinyu Persecution of 1801, Gihae Persecution of 1839, Byeongo Persecution of 1846, and Byeongin Persecution of 1866. These bloody conflicts took the lives of over 800 Catholics, some of whom were canonized by Pope John Paul II in Seoul in 1984. Today, Catholicism is one of South Korea’s three major religions (along with Protestantism and Buddhism), with over five million followers.

Jeonju Traditional Korean Wine Museum MUSEUM This may sound like a place to put on your party hat and imbibe, but it’s actually a serious museum created to preserve the traditional rice wine brewing process. It harks back to a time when each household brewed its own rice wine using wood-burning stoves. On the first and third Saturdays of each month there is a traditional liquor brewing demonstration. On the second and fourth Saturdays they have tastings.

39-3 3-ga Pungnam-dong, Wansan-gu, Jeonju. 063/297-6305. Free admission. Tues–Sun 9am–6pm. From the bus terminals, take bus no. 79-2, 88, 88-1, or 126 and get off at Jeondong Cathedral. From the train station, take bus no. 111 or 163 and get off at Jeonbuk Art Center. It’s about a 10-min. walk from the bus stops.

You Say You want a Revolution?

In 1894, long-suffering Korean peasants reached the end of their patience with royalty and with the yangban (the aristocracy) class. Tensions had long been simmering among the peasants, angry over the oppressive rule of the Joseon Dynasty, which taxed them heavily while providing little in return. Severe droughts in the early 1800s had led to crippling famines, and taxes had grown so onerous that many farmers were forced to sell their ancestral farms to wealthy landowners, who then rented it back to them at outrageous prices. In local uprisings in 1812 and 1862, farmers focused their rage on these landowners, and were brutally suppressed by government soldiers.

At the same time, an ideology called Donghak (Eastern Learning) was spreading throughout Korea’s rural areas. A mix of Buddhism, Confucianism, and other elements, it was both a political and a spiritual movement. Akin in many ways to Marxism, it was centered on the premise of basic human rights—and on driving out foreign influences. The peasant class had grown frustrated by the influence exerted over Korean politics by the Chinese and particularly the Japanese, whom they felt did not care about their needs.

Finally, in January 1894, the peasants rose up en masse in what is known as the Donghak Peasant Revolution. Their aim was to expel foreigners (specifically the Japanese) and to bring about social reforms like democracy, land redistribution, and tax reduction. At first they managed to defeat some government troops, but by March 1895 the military, with the help of Japanese soldiers, had crushed the rebellion completely.

While the revolution itself failed, it did have a lasting impact. It sparked the Sino-Japanese War (1894–95), as China and Japan struggled for dominance over the Korean Peninsula. Japan won—and promptly made Korea its pawn. Within 10 years, Japan had formally annexed Korea and would remain in control until the end of World War II.

Shopping

Jeonju is well known for its traditional crafts, especially fans and other items made from hanji (mulberry paper). Historically, Jeonju was known for making the best bamboo and paper fans in Korea, and has been home to master fan makers called “Seonjajang,” for centuries. Cheap paper fans can be found all over the city, but for higher-end crafts, try the Crafts Exhibition Center, 1-65 Gyo-dong Wansan-gu, or the larger Jeonju Masterpiece Shopping Center ( 063/285-0002), which sells a variety of traditional handicrafts. Both centers are open daily 10am to 7pm; the latter is closed on Mondays.

If you want to do some upscale clothes shopping, stop by the Jeonju branch of the Lotte Department Store ( 063/289-2500), which has several floors of fashions and home goods sandwiched between a basement food court and restaurants and a cinema above.

If you’re an early riser or late sleeper, you can browse the Nambu Shijang (Southern Market) ( 063/284-1344), which is open daily from midnight to 9pm. It has been the largest market in the Honam region since 1905 and is a living history of the people of this region. Most goods sold here are agricultural in nature, but there are other items for sale. Take a bus to Paldal Road or the Nambu Shijang. Other traditional markets include the Joong-ang Shijang (Central Market), which is open daily from 6am to 9pm, and the Dongbu Shijang (Eastern Market), which has rotating items on sale depending on the day of the week (blankets, Korean traditional clothing, and rice cakes on Mon; school uniforms on Tues; produce on Wed; and so forth).

Imsil

When one thinks of South Korea, cheese is usually not the first thing that comes to mind. In Imsil, however, cheese making not only is a way of life, but has become a tourist attraction as well. Cheese was introduced to South Korea in 1959 by a Belgian missionary, who came to Jeollabuk-do to help people surviving the Korean War. The Imsil Cheese Village ( 063/643-3700) was founded much later, in 2005. Originally called Zelkova Village (after the trees that line the entry), its name was changed by the village assembly. They offer 1- to 2-day programs, including the regular cheese experience. This program starts at 10:10am and lasts about 3 to 3 1/2 hours. It includes hands-on cheese making, plus your choice of an additional program (e.g. goat milking, soap making, rice planting, etc.) and lunch. The overnight experience starts around 1:30pm with lunch, a tractor ride, cheesemaking, bike rides/strolls around the village, and more.

If you’re not into cheese or want to also enjoy some of the most beautiful scenery the countryside has to offer, head to Okjeongho ★★ (Okjeong Lake, aka Unam Lake; 063/640-2641). This is a gorgeous body of water created by a dam on the Seomjin River. It’s best viewed via a 2-hour drive around the water or from the top of Guksa Summit. Buses to Okjeong village run 5 times daily from 6:08am–10:15pm or take bus 976 (which runs 6:40am–9:40pm) and get off at Unam-gyo (Unam Bridge).

From Jeonju Bus Terminal ( 063/281-2739), buses run every 10 minutes, from 6:05am to 10pm. The 30- to 40-minute ride costs ₩5,000. From the DongSeoul Bus Terminal, buses to Imsil run from 10:00am–3:20pm. The nearly 4-hour ride will cost about ₩15,000.

Imsil has a train station off the Jeolla line.

Where to Stay

As in most cities in South Korea, there is no shortage of safe, clean, inexpensive motels and their Korean equivalent, called yeogwan. In Jeonju, many of them can be found near the train and bus stations in town. They are very similar to each other, most take cash upfront, and they charge around ₩35,000 to ₩45,000 for a standard room. Below, I’ve listed more upscale options.

Expensive

Jeonju Core Riviera Hotel At this place, rooms (both Western-style and Korean-style ondol) are a bit on the small and spare side. Built in 1996, this hotel has great service and is a popular place to hold academic seminars, since it has large meeting and banquet rooms.

26-5 Poongnam-dong 3-ga, Wansan-gu, Jeonju. http://www.core-riviera.co.kr. 063/232-7000. 166 units. ₩132,000 and up standard room. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; cafe; health club; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.

Jeonju Core Hotel Conveniently located in downtown Jeonju, the Jeonju Core is close to Jirisan and Naejangsan. Although the hotel is more than 20 years old, the rooms are comfortable—both Western and Korean style available. Unfortunately, the sauna is open only to male guests.

627-3 Noseong-dong, Wansan-gu, Jeonju. http://corehotel.co.kr. 063/285-1100. Fax 063/285-5707. 111 units. ₩150,000 standard room; ₩218,000 and up suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; pool; cafe; health club; sauna; bakery. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, hair dryer.

Moderate

Jeonju Tourist Hotel ★ The first tourist hotel to be established in the city, this place has dated facilities, but it is still clean and comfortable. Rooms are basic and spare with small windows that don’t offer much of a view. Conveniently located near the train station, it is right next to Jeonju-cheon (Jeonju Stream) and Daga Park. Rates include a complimentary breakfast.

28 Taga-dong 3-ga, Wansan-gu, Jeonju. 063/280-7700. www.jjhotel.co.kr (Korean only) 42 units. ₩60,000 single/double. MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; cafe; nightclub. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.

Hanok Living Experience Center This traditional village has over 800 houses, renovated and preserved from the Joseon Dynasty. You can experience how the traditional royal class lived firsthand by staying in one of their traditional rooms. The ondol rooms feature traditional furniture made by a master craftsman and all stays include breakfast. Don’t expect high-end facilities here (you are staying in a traditional village, after all). All rooms are the basic Korean style, thick blankets laid on the floor. You leave your shoes at the door and step in between sliding wooden doors covered in paper. First- and second-class rooms have personal restrooms, but the third-class option has shared facilities. All rooms include free use of on-site bicycles.

33-4 Pungnam-dong 3-ga, Wansan-gu, Jeonju. www.jjhanok.com/english. 063/287-6300. 15 units. ₩110,000–₩130,000 1st-class room; ₩90,000–₩100,000 2nd-class standard room; ₩70,000 3rd-class standard room. Extra person ₩10,000. Reservations should be made at least 2 weeks in advance, with 30% deposit due 1 week before. MC, V. Amenities: Shared kitchen facilities; free admission to Hanok Village. In room: Underfloor heating, breakfast included (except on Mondays).

Inexpensive

White Tourist Motel Conveniently located within walking distance to the bus stations the rooms are clean and comfortable. Both beds and ondol rooms are available. If you want a room with a computer, ask for a “PC bahng.”

754-4 Geumam-dong, Deokjing-gu, Jeonju. 063/271-3992. 35 units. ₩35,000 single or double. MC, V. Amenities: Karaoke bar. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.

Where to Eat

Jeonju is famous for its bibimbap (mixed rice bowl), which can come with up to 30 local ingredients. Virtually every traditional restaurant in town will have a version of it on their menu, so be sure to try it at least once while you’re here.

Expensive

Jeollado Eumshik Iyagi ★ KOREAN Plan on spending a long time at this place, known for hanjeongshik (traditional formal meals), since the meal comes with a seemingly endless number of dishes. You can splurge and get the ₩60,000 to ₩100,000 teukbyeol hanjeongshik (special traditional meal), or opt for the more economical hanjeongshik bibimbap for ₩15,000. Bring a friend because these formal meals with various banchan (side dishes) of seasonal vegetables and seafood require at least two people to finish.

899-1 U-ah 2(i)-dong, Deokjingu, Jeonju-si. 063/244-4477. Entrees ₩10,000–₩20,000. MC, V. Daily noon–10:30pm. Limited parking. Just a block past the Pyeong-hwadong 4-way, across from the Hyundai Apts.

Moderate

Gabgi Hwegwan KOREAN Another joint well known for bibimbap, this spot also specializes in yook-hwae (raw beef) and galbi (beef short ribs). This is one of the few places in town that offer a kid’s size serving of the famous Jeonju bibimbap.

265–34 Palbok-dong 2-ga, Deokjin-gu, Jeonju. 063/212-5766. Entrees ₩10,000–₩15,000. MC, V. Daily 9am–10pm. Plenty of parking available. Right after you cross the Yongsan Bridge (also called Jeonju Daegyo).

Gajok Hwegwan ★★ KOREAN Famous for the bibimbap, this place really knows how to do it right (it helps that they’ve been cooking it up since 1980). You know this is a high-volume business when you see the giant pyramid of bowls kept on hand just for their signature dish. The menu has limited English, but it’s easy to order and everything comes with a generous number of banchan.

80 Jung-ang-dong 3-ga, Wansan-gu, Jeonju. 063/284-0982 or -2884. Set menu ₩10,000 to ₩15,000. MC, V. Daily 11:30am–9:30pm. Plenty of parking available. Located on the diagonal corner from the Jeonju post office (across from the Sanup Bank).

Inexpensive

Honam Gak KOREAN You’ll find an array of local Jeonju cuisine in this large restaurant, which was built to look like a traditional house, curved roof and all. You can try one of the tasty bibimbap dishes or splurge and get the house special meal (Honam Gak teukseon jungchan), which comes with more banchan that you could ever finish in a day, let alone one meal. The side dishes vary depending on the season, but you’ll likely get sautéed vegetables, kimchi (spiced dish), flatcakes, salted seafood, shinseollo (a “wizard’s stew”), and more.

560-5 Songchundong 2-ga, Deokjingu, Jeonju. 063/278-8150. Entrees ₩9,000–₩25,000. MC, V. Daily 11:30am–10pm. Plenty of parking available.

Namwon

This city is known as the “City of Love” or the “Town of Fidelity,” because it served as the setting for the traditional Chunhyang-jeon, a story about a beautiful girl born into a low-class family who falls in love with the son of the town’s magistrate (see the box “The Legend of Chunhyang,” below). There is even a Chunhyang Festival (www.chunhyang.org, Korean only), every year on the eighth day of the fourth lunar month (usually late Apr or early May).

In addition to its romantic history, Namwon serves as the transportation hub for climbers visiting Jirisan National Park ().

Essentials

Getting There There is regular train service to Namwon Station ( 063/633-7788) on the Jeolla line, which connects Seoul to Yeosu. The Saemaeul trains take 4 hours and cost ₩20,100 to ₩24,000. The Mugunghwa trains run more frequently and take an additional half-hour. Seats cost ₩13,800 to ₩17,400.

Buses are available to/from Seoul’s Express Bus Terminal. They run about 17 times a day, 6am to 10:20pm. The ride lasts just under 4 hours and costs ₩9,800 to ₩15,500. You can also catch an intercity bus from Jeonju (only 45 min. away), Gwangju, Daegu, and Hwaeomsa.

Getting Around Local buses will take you pretty much anywhere you want to go, but can have infrequent service. There are taxis available to be flagged down on any street or in front of train and bus stations. Taxi drivers generally don’t speak English, but if you tell them where you want to go, there shouldn’t be a problem. Luckily, some of the main attractions in Namwon are within walking distance.

Visitor Information There is a small tourist information booth in front of the train station, where you can get a map and general information from the friendly staff, who speak pretty good English. You will also find a small tourist information booth at Gwanghallu-won. The Namwon City Tourism Department can be reached at 063/632-1771 or http://en.namwon.go.kr/en.

Exploring Namwon

Gwanghallu-won (Gwanghallu Garden) ★★★ GARDEN The beautifully landscaped Gwanghallu-won is the site of the annual Chunhyang Festival, since this is supposedly where the legendary lovers met. The buildings inside include the historic Gwangtong Pavilion, which is now called Chunhyang Hall. The Ojak Bridge, built over a pond, is supposed to ensure a happy marriage to any couple who step on it once a year. Other than being known for the traditional love story, Namwon is also the mecca for Korean pansori (blues-opera-style performance). From April to October, there are free daily performances here at noon. In July and September, you can enjoy evening performances at the open-air stage of the Chunhyang Cultural Arts Hall across the stream. The gardens are especially nice at night when the buildings are under-lit and admission is free the last hour before closing.

78 Cheongeo-dong, Namwon-si. 063/620-6182. www.gwanghallu.or.kr (Korean only). Admission ₩2,000 adults, ₩1,800 teens, ₩1,100 children. Daily 8am–8pm, free admission the last hour. Parking ₩2,000. From the bus station, take a bus heading for Suji, Daesan, Daegangor Songdont and get off at the Jaeil Bank intersection, then walk 3 min. A taxi ride from the bus station will cost about ₩4,000.

The Pansori tradition

Sometimes called Korean opera, pansori is a form of storytelling by a singer and a drummer. The sorrikkun (the singer, or “noisemaker”) tells a story (usually a satire or a love story) while the gosu (drummer) beats out the rhythm and sometimes makes short sounds of encouragement (called chuimsae) as the story is told. Members of the audience also belt out short words or sounds as well. A full story or madang, with alternating speaking parts (anili) and singing parts (chang), can take hours (sometimes 4 to 5) to complete. The singer holds a fan in one hand and uses it for emphasis, to show emotion and to indicate changes of scene.

Originating during the middle of the Joseon period (1392–1910), pansori began as part of the oral tradition by traveling performers. Although performers were considered low-class by the aristocrats, by the end of the Joseon Dynasty, the yangban began to appreciate the pansori performances. Due to its oral nature (it was passed down from person to person and not written), of the original 12 pansori madang only 5 remain today—“Simcheong-ga,” “Chunhyang-ga,” “Heungbuga,” “Jeokyeokga,” and “Sugung-ga.” In 2003, UNESCO added pansori to its list of Masterpieces of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.

Namwon Tourist Complex AMUSEMENT PARK This large complex rests on the foothills across the Yocheon stream from Namwon. Sleeping options, restaurants, and amusements line Dongpyeonje Street (the main drag). Many sculptures and other works of art are scattered throughout the area. Also inside the complex is the small but interesting Chunhyang Theme Park ( 063/620-6836), with old-fashioned swings, a fish pond, and a fake house that someone like Chunhyang would have lived in. On the top of the complex, you’ll find Namwon Land, an amusement park with a Ferris wheel and usual rides.

Eohyeon-dong, Namwon-si. 063/632-6070. www.namwontheme.or.kr (Korean only). Free admission to the complex, but separate admission for various attractions. Admission to Chunhyang Theme Park is ₩3,000 for adults, ₩2,500 teens, ₩2,000 children. No set hours for the complex, but Namwon Land and several eating establishments open late on weekends. Chunhyang Theme Park 9am–10pm Apr–Oct (until 9pm Nov–Mar).

National Center for Korean Folk Performing Arts ★★ PERFORMING ARTS VENUE This center was created in 1992 to preserve Korean folk traditions, and it organizes performances throughout the country and internationally, in addition to publishing any related research. The collection of traditional instruments is impressive and educational. At 5pm every Saturday (4pm in winter, and other times throughout the year), they put on Korean traditional music performances. Those held here and at the Chunhyang Cultural Arts Hall (across the stream from the Gwanghallu-won) include folk songs by nongak (farmers’ percussion band) and other forms of traditional music.

37-40, Eohyeon-dong, Namwon-si. 063/620-2324. Admission ₩2,000 adults, ₩1,500 students, ₩1,000 children. Daily 9am–5pm. There are no direct buses to the center, but the best way to get there is to take a bus to Gwanghallu and then walk 10 min.

The legend of Chunhyang

The story of Chunhyang, Chunhyang-ga, is one of a handful of surviving Korean pansori, in which a performer sings a story while a drummer sets the rhythm. Korea’s version of Romeo and Juliet is about Chunhyang, the daughter of a gisaeng (a female entertainer for government officials akin to a Japanese geisha), who falls in love with Mong-ryong, the son of a magistrate.

The two marry in secret, but Mong-ryong is forced to return to Seoul to finish his education. While he is away, a local magistrate tries to force Chunhyang to be his concubine. She refuses and is thrown into prison, tortured, and sentenced to death. At the last minute, Mong-ryong returns disguised as a beggar (but in fact is a secret royal inspector) and rescues her.

Shilsangsa (Shilsang Temple) TEMPLE Located along the northern border of Jirisan, this temple (sometimes spelled Silsangsa) faces Cheonwangbong, the mountain’s highest peak. Originally built in 828 during the Shilla Dynasty, it is the first of the Gusan Seonmun (the nine Zen Buddhist temples that started “Seon,” the Korean Zen sect). Japanese invaders burned down the complex in 1592, and it was completely burned down again during King Gojeong’s reign. It was rebuilt in 1884 on a smaller scale than its former self. Its iron Buddha from the late 9th century is one of the earliest examples of its kind.

50 Ipseok-li, Sannae-myeon, Namwon-si. 061/636-3031. Admission ₩1,500 adults, ₩1,200 youth, ₩800 children. Summer daily 9am–6pm; winter daily 9am–5pm. From Namwon, take road 24 to Unbong, go toward Inwol, and then take local road 60 toward Sannae-myeon. Follow the signs to Silsangsa.

Shopping

Namwon is well known for its wooden crafts, and you can find some traditional folkware at the Namwon Folkcrafts Sales Center, 470 Uhhyeoon-dong, Namwon-si ( 063/626-5840), or the Namwon Lacquer Center, 515 Josan-dong, Namwon-si ( 063/631-5725). There are also some shops in the Namwon Tourist Complex and near Gwanghallu-won, where you can buy furniture and other wares made from local bamboo.

Where to Stay

The largest concentration of accommodations is at the Namwon Tourist Complex, which has hotels and lower-priced yeogwan (low-end motels) and minbak (homestays), for the more price-conscious. There are also several motels near the bus terminal. They run from about ₩35,000 to ₩45,000 for a standard room that sleeps one or two. Newer accommodations are located near the Express Bus Terminal.

A conveniently located, slightly more upscale accommodation is the Namwon Kookmin Hotel, 437 Shincheon-dong, Namwon-si ( 063/626-5300; fax 063/632-3436), with rooms starting at ₩60,000 per night. Cheaper options are the Greenpia Motel, 277-1, Yongdamil, Juchon-myeon, Namwon-si ( 063/636-7200), and the Chunhyanjang, 37-121, Oyon-dong, Namwon-si ( 063/626-0330), with rooms starting at ₩35,000 per night.

For a casual place to lay your head and a good home-cooked meal, try the Namwon Shikdang Minbak, 167-1 Bukcheon-li, Unbong-eup, Namwon-si ( 063/634-0044) in Unbong. The accommodations are basic, but they serve great roasted pork.

Where to Eat

The Namwon Tourist Complex has a number of reasonably priced restaurants to choose from. For late-night amusements, there are also a number of noraebang (private karaoke “singing” rooms) and bars in the area.

For the specialty of the region, try the restaurants around Gwanghallu-won (some of the best ones are between the back gate and the post office). Many of the restaurants are decorated to imitate the kind run by Wolmae (Chunhyang’s mom), who was a gisaeng. A famous restaurant in the area, well known for its chueoh (loach, or mudfish that live in rice paddies, a type of freshwater fish that is small, flat and has mild, white meat), is Namwon Chunhyang-gol Saejip, 60-206 Cheongeoh-dong, Namwon-si ( 063/625-2443), whose name means “new house.” They do all things loach, including loach stew, loach sashimi, and deep-fried loach. Dishes range from ₩7,000 to ₩25,000.

The Rest of Jeollabuk-do

The northern half of Jeolla-do, Jeollabuk-do (sometimes called “Jeonbuk”) encompasses six small cities, including Jeonju and Namwon (see earlier), Iksan, Gimje, Gunsan, and Jeong-eup. Still, most of its residents live in rural areas. Due to its shallow water, there is almost no good natural harbor. Only Gunsan has a large-scale harbor and ferry terminal. Unlike Jeollanam-do to the south, Jeollabuk-do has virtually no wide, sandy beaches and very few associated islands.

Still, because of its fertile soil, the area has been the primary rice provider for the peninsula for centuries. Its red soil is also supposedly good for your health and can be found in specialized cosmetics and beauty products from the region. Although there aren’t any major tourist destinations in the province, there are many national parks, historical areas, and quieter temples.

Essentials

Getting There There is only one airport in the province at Gunsan, 385 Seonyeon-li (KUV; 063/469-8345; www.airport.co.kr/doc/gunsan_eng). Korean Airlines ( 1588-2001; www.koreanair.com) offers flights to and from Jeju twice daily. There are local city buses to Gunsan city that run every hour. There are also two nonstop intercity buses to Jeonju and Iksan, which run twice a day. One auto-rental company, Kumho Rent-a-Car ( 063/468-8000), has a kiosk at the airport.

It is easier to reach the region by train as the Honam line runs south from Daejeon and connects Iksan and Jeong-eup to Mokpo (the end of the line). The Jeolla line runs southeast from Iksan to Jeonju, Imsil, and Namwon before going to Suncheon and Yeosu in Jeollanam-do. The short Gunsan line starts from Iksan and heads west to Gunsan.

It’s best to take a bus to Jeonju from Seoul, and then explore the rest of Jeollabuk-do from there.

The Honam Expressway (road 25) runs through the middle of the province. It connects Iksan and port city Gunsan to Jeonju.

Getting Around Local buses will take you pretty much anywhere you want to go; the only problem is that they run pretty infrequently (about every hour or two) from select destinations. So make sure you know what time the return bus is so that you’re not stuck waiting an hour for the next bus. Fares run to about ₩1,000 to ₩1,400 for local buses, so be sure to have plenty of ₩1,000 bills and coins with you (drivers usually don’t give you change). Unfortunately, bus schedules aren’t always posted at the bus stops (sometimes there aren’t even bus stops), so ask your driver what time the return trips run and plan accordingly, especially when venturing out to less popular places.

If you want to rent a car, rent one in a city (like Seoul or at least Jeonju) because you won’t find car-rental companies in remote areas (for instance, there is only one company that services Namwon).

Taxis are usually available to be flagged down in cities and major tourist attractions, but you won’t find them in some of the smaller remote villages. As in most places outside of Seoul, drivers don’t speak English, so be sure to have a map or know the name of your destination in Korean.

Visitor Information The Jeollabuk-do Tourist Information Center ( 063/281-2739) is located in front of the Jeonju Bus Terminal (Geumam-dong, Deokjin-gu, Jeonju-si) and is open daily from 9am to 6pm. The official website for the province is http://en.jeonbuk.go.kr.

Muju & Deogyusan National Park

About 4 hours from Seoul, Muju County ( 063/321-2114; 10am–5pm, http://neweng.muju.org/index.sko?menuCd=AD01000000000) is known for its annual Firefly Festival in mid-June. Because the Sobaek Mountains divide the county, the beautiful Muju Resort ( 063/322-9000; for more information see “Where to Stay,” later) is popular for skiing and sledding in the winter. The summer attracts golfers and hikers.

The Deogyusan (Mt. Deogyu) National Park ( 063/322-3174; http://english.knps.or.kr/Knp/Deogyusan) spans a large area of the Sobaek Mountains and includes the scenic Gucheondong Valley, which is worth exploring for its interesting rock formations, wonderful cliffs, and waterfalls. The town of Muju, the gateway to the valley on its Jeollabuk-do side, is not much of a destination. The city does have the Hanpungnu Pavilion, said to be one of the most beautiful in the province.

One of the remaining temples in the valley is the Baengnyeongsa ( 063/322-3395 Korean only) named because of a white lotus that appeared after the death of a monk who meditated here in seclusion. The most popular and scenic hiking trail takes you up from the park’s entrance to Baengnyeongsa. It takes about 3 hours round-trip.

Also in the national park are Anguksa (Anguk Temple) and the Jeoksangsanseong (Jeoksan Fortress), both of which offer beautiful views from their height in the mountains.

Entrance to the national park is free. Plan to head to the Jeoksang entrance if you want to see Anguksa, and the Samgong entrance if you want to see Baengnyeongsa. To get to Baengnyeongsa from the Muju bus terminal, take a bus heading toward Gucheon-dong and get off at the last stop (buses run once an hour from 7:25am to 8:30pm and take about 45 min.).

Gochang

This small town and county of Gochang (http://culture.gochang.go.kr/site_english) are located southwest of Jeong-eup in the southwestern part of the province. This largely rural area is known for its hundreds of dolmen and its most famous attraction, the Gochang-eupseong (Gochang-eup Fortress) ★★ (aka Moyangseong, after Gochang’s name during the Baekje period, 063/560-2710), located on the hill overlooking the village. Built in 1453, during the early Joseon Dynasty, it is surrounded by the slopes of Bandeugsan and has three gates, one each to the east, west, and north; two floodgates; and a tower. Most of the original fortress is intact and the rest has been reconstructed, so it is in fine shape these days. The Gochang Moyang Fortress Festival (http://gochang.go.kr/festival, Korean only) is held here on the ninth day of the ninth lunar month of the year (usually in early Oct). If you happen to be in the area then, make sure to catch it, as it is one of the few traditional festivals left of its kind.

Next to the fortress (and in walking distance from the bus station) is the Gochang Pansori Museum (http://www.pansorimuseum.com/eng). A private museum, it is a nice introduction to this historic and uniquely Korean way of singing. It’s open Tuesday through Sunday 9am to 6pm, last tickets sold 30 minutes before closing. The museum is closed Jan 1. Admission is ₩800 for adults, ₩500 for youths 7 to 18, and free for those 65 and older and kids 6 and under.

The prehistoric cemeteries surrounding the small town of Gochang (along with those at Hwasun and Ganghwa) have been collectively declared a UNESCO World Heritage site. The thousands of goindol (dolmen) found in these sites form part of the remnants of a Megalithic culture found both here and in other parts of the world. There are over 2,000 (out of the 36,000 on the entire Korean Peninsula) found in the eastern mountains of Gochang-eup. The Korean word for dolmen, goindol, literally means “a rock that is propped up by other rocks.” The Gochang Dolmen Museum ( 063/560-8666; 676 Dosan-li, Gochang-eup; www.gcdolmen.go.kr/english/2011/sboard.php?sMenu=main), which is mainly a bunch of dioramas depicting the life of the prehistoric dolmen makers, is open Tuesday through Sunday 9am to 6pm (until 5pm Nov–Feb). Admission is ₩3,000 for adults, ₩2,000 for teens, ₩1,000 for children.

Daily buses from Seoul’s Express Bus Terminal go to Gochang about every 40 minutes, from 7am to 7pm. The ride takes about 3 hours and 40 minutes. Buses are also available from Jeonju (80-min. ride) every 30 minutes. Those from Gwangju run every 30 minutes and take just under an hour. Buses also run from Jeong-eup every 10 minutes and take about 30 minutes to arrive in Gochang.

Prehistoric Dolmen Sites

The prehistoric burial grounds of Gochang, Hwasun, and Ganghwa contain hundreds of dolmen (stone tombs) from the first millennium b.c. Although similar stone tombs from Megalithic culture are found in other parts of the world (mainly Asia, Europe, and North Africa), nowhere else are they found in such concentration and variety. Dolmens are Megalithic-era funerary monuments consisting of large “capstones” placed on top of two other stone slabs. Like the stones of Stonehenge and Orkney in Britain and the stone circles of West Africa, South Korea’s dolmen are also remnants of a Megalithic culture that thrived in the Neolithic and Bronze Ages during the 2nd and 1st millenniums b.c. The Korean dolmen appear to have arrived with the Bronze Age.

The dolmen of Gochang are said to be from the 7th to 3rd century b.c. Those in Hwasun date around 6th–5th century b.c., while the dates of the Ganghwa dolmen are yet to be determined (although archaeologists figure around 1st century b.c., based on stylistic traits.

Seonunsan (Mt. Seonun) Provincial Park

This park is famous for its dense forest, steep peaks, and oddly shaped rocks (some are sheer-faced as if they’ve been sliced in half, while others are rounded and almost form figures). Although these are not the highest ranges in the country, the sheer faces of some of the rocks here make this a very popular spot for rock climbers.

The original Seonunsa (Seonun Temple) ★★, built in 577 during the Baekje period, was an impressive complex. It is now only a shadow of its former self (at its height, it had 89 shrines and 3,000 monks living within its confines), ever since much of it was destroyed during the second Japanese invasion in 1597. Still, the temple is renowned for its beautiful scenery during all four seasons—brilliantly blooming 500-year-old camellia trees and cherry blossoms in the spring, thick green forests hiding cool valleys in the summer, colorful foliage in the fall, and peaceful white snow blanketing the winter scenery. It also houses a Buddha statue from the early Goryeo Dynasty, which was later found to have a hidden record from the Donghak Farmers’ Revolution () hidden in its chest. Admission to the temple is ₩2,500 adults, ₩1,500 teens, and ₩1,000 children.

While in the area, walk up a bit from Seonunsa to the Jinheung-gul (Jinheung cave) and the Dosol-am (sometimes spelled Dosoram), a hermitage set in a pine and bamboo grove. Enshrined in the hermitage is the Jijang Bosal, the “King of Harmless Ghosts” and the lord of the underworld, where many come to pray for help in the afterlife.

You can take a direct bus to Seonunsan from Jeong-eup Station. Buses run four times a day and the ride takes about 50 minutes. Buses are also available from Gochang, which take about 30 minutes and run about eight times a day. The park is open daily from 8am to 6pm in the summer, 9am to 5pm in the winter.

The King of Harmless Ghosts

The Jijang Bosal, or King of the Harmless Ghosts (he’s also known as Bodhisattva Ksitigarbha, as Dizang in Chinese, and as Jizo in Japanese), is a popular bodhisattva for Mahayana Buddhists. A Buddhist saint of sorts, he made a vow not to achieve “Buddhahood” until all the hells were emptied, and thus became the bodhisattva of beings in hell. He is usually depicted as a monk with a shaved head and often carries a staff to force the gates of hell open. He also carries the “wish-fulfilling jewel” to light the darkness.

If you decide to overnight in the area, your best bet is the Seonunsan Tourist Hotel ( 063/561-3377). Located near the entrance to the park, it is the largest hotel in the area. Its facilities are a bit dated and show wear, but their ondol rooms are comfortable and clean, ranging from ₩60,000 to ₩100,000. Even if you decide to stay at the less expensive Seonunsan Youth Hostel ( 063/561-3333) or any of the private minbak in the area, you can still drop in for a soak, the sauna, or a mud massage at the Seonunsan Tourist Hotel’s Cheongjutang (bath).

As for eats, the regional specialty is Puncheon eel, caught in the area streams, where freshwater meets seawater. Many restaurants specialize in this somewhat sweet-tasting fish. Most of them are located around the entrance to the park. One good joint is the Cheongwon Garden ( 063/564-0414), where they serve it broiled in soy sauce for about ₩22,000. You can wash it all down with some of their special (and fragrant) wild berry wine for ₩9,000.

Byeonsan Bando (Mt. Byeon Peninsula) National Park

At the only national park in South Korea to encompass both a seashore and mountains, the mountains here are surprisingly rugged for being so close to the ocean and rising up from the fertile plains. Stretching 35km (22 miles), the park is divided into two large sections—Oebyeonsan (outer Byeonsan), on the coast, and Naebyeonsan (inner Byeonsan) inland.

The main attractions at Oebyeonsan are Byeonsan Beach and Chaeseokgang (Chaeseok River). One of the few good beaches on South Korea’s west coast, its fine sand and nearby pine forest attracts tourists, especially during the summer. Chaeseokgang lies on the west of the Byeonsan Peninsula, where it meets the sea and the cliffs. Those cliffs, the Toejeokamcheong, look like thousands of books stacked on top of each other. It’s a great place to enjoy the sunset any time of year.

Seafood restaurants line the shore of Byeonsan Bando on the way to Chaeseokgang. Great scenery and a bowl of hwaedupbap (rice and raw fish) can be had for ₩10,000 at such places as the Hwang-geum Hwaetjib ( 063/582-8763, San 47, Gyeonpo-li, Byeonsan-myeon, Buan-gun). Plates of fresh hwae (raw fish) cost anywhere from ₩20,000 to ₩80,000 depending on the size and assortment of fish.

Naebyeonsan is especially well known for its waterfalls, gorgeous valleys, and fragrant pine woodlands. On the east side of the mountain is the diminutive Gaeamsa (Gaeam Temple), originally built in 676. It was expanded in 1313 and has gone through many reconstructions. Admission is free and it’s open from sunrise to sunset.

The largest temple in the park is Naesosa ★★★ ( 063/583-7281, 268 Seokpo-li, Jinseo-myeon, Buan-gun, www.naesosa.org), which was originally built in 633 during the Baekje period. It has also been through many renovations, with the latest carried out by a Zen monk in 1865. It’s one of the few temples in the country with buildings left unpainted. The walk to the temple is beautiful, lined on either side with fir and pine trees (although the recorded Buddhist chanting can be a bit distracting). It’s definitely worth a visit if you’re in the area. Entrance to Naesosa is ₩2,000 adults, ₩800 teens, and ₩500 children. Open daily 8:30am–5:30pm winter, 8am–6pm summer.

From the Buan Bus Terminal, there are buses to Naesosa every 20 to 30 minutes from 6:30am to 8:30pm. The ride takes about 50 minutes. Buses to Buan from Seoul’s Express Bus Terminal go from 6:50amto 7:30pm about once an hour, taking just under 3 hours. Buses from DongSeoul run five times daily from 7:40am to 5:40pm and take about 4 hours. Both buses cost about ₩13,700.

The easiest way to get to Byeonsan Bando National Park (http://english.knps.or.kr/Knp/Byeonsanbando/Intro/Introduction.aspx?MenuNum=1&Submenu=Npp) is to take a bus or taxi from either Jeong-eup Station or the Buan Bus Terminal. The park is open daily March through October from 8:30am to 6pm (from 9am Nov–Feb). Admission is free. If you get a chance, pick up a jar of the wonderfully aromatic wild honey from local vendors in the Naebyeonsan area, which is supposed to have medicinal value and is one of the three famous things (sambyeon) from the region. The other two are the wild orchids and the tall, straight fir trees.

Accommodations in the area include a number of small yeogwan and minbak with single/double rooms usually in the ₩35,000 to ₩40,000 range on weekdays and ₩40,000 to ₩50,000 on weekends. The most high-end hotel in the area is the Byeonsan Daemyung Resort ★ ( 063/580-8800 or 1588-4888 257 Gyeoppo-li Byeonsan-myeon, Buan-gun; http://www.daemyungresort.com/asp/language/english), which also has an attached water park, AquaWorld. Both Korean and Western-style rooms start at ₩51,000 on off-season weekdays. In popular summer months (July–Aug), it may be easier to find a place to sleep in the nearby town, Gyeokpoham.

Daedunsan (Mt. Daedun) Provincial Park ★

Daedunsan is almost equidistant from both Jeonju and Daejeon, making it an ideal day trip from either city. Its dramatic high peak can be reached by hiking up for 2 hours or by taking the cable car (which offers beautiful views of the valley below). At the top, one trail leads you straight up to a metal staircase (go up about 10 min.) to the Geumgang Gureumdali (Geumgang “Dream” Bridge), a narrow suspension bridge which is 50m (164 ft.) long, 1m (3 1/4 ft.) wide, and about 80m (262 ft.) high. But the fun doesn’t end there. After the bridge is another set of metal stairs, steeper and more precarious than the last one. Climbing up those stairs takes you to the top of the mountain, where you may be surprised to find ajummas selling bottles of water and candy bars, which they carry up the mountain every morning. Admission to the park is free, but the cable car costs round-trip ₩8,000 ages 14 and up, ₩5,000 kids 3 to 13.

You can take a bus from either Jeonju or Daejeon and get off at the small tourist village near the Daedunsan Tourist Hotel. There are six buses daily from Daejeon Seobu Bus Terminal to Daedunsan (about a 40-min. ride) and 5 buses from the Jeonju Bus Terminal (about an hour ride).

Maisan (Mt. Mai) Provincial Park ★★ & Jinan

The name “Maisan” means “horse ear mountain,” so named because two of its peaks are said to look like the ears of a horse (especially when looking at them from Jinan).

Tapsa (Pagoda Temple) ★★★ is one of the most interesting small temples in the country. About 120 pagodas made from neatly piled stones were created here by Yi Gapyong, a hermit who lived here for 30 years. Only 80 of them exist today. You’ll pass the smaller Eunsusa (“Silver Water” Temple) on the way up, and another temple, the Geamdangsa (a garishly gold temple), just below Tapsa. Near this temple, there is a trail that leads up to Naong-am, a grotto cave used as a sanctuary by a Shilla monk. Farther down the road is the Isan-myo, a shrine dedicated to Dangun and Joseon Dynasty kings Taejo and Sejong. The way up to Tapsa is steep and precarious, but it’s worth the climb. You can also get to Tapsa without the arduous hike by entering via the north parking lot. The easy path gives you access to the small lake that has swan-shaped paddle boats available during summer months. Admission to the park costs ₩2,000 adults, ₩1,500 teens, ₩1,000 children.

You can take a daily local bus from Jinan, which leaves every 40 minutes to North Maisan from 7:30am to 6pm, and takes about 10 minutes. Buses to South Maisan run only five times daily from 10am to 7pm and take about 20 min. To get to Jinan, catch the 50-minute bus ride from Jeonju (buses run 7:30am to 6pm). Jinan ( 063/433-3313; www.jinan.go.kr/english/sub0401.jsp) itself is a charming little provincial town near the edge of a forest, well known for its insam (ginseng) and shiitake mushrooms.

Gangcheonsan County Park

Although national and provincial parks are popular tourist destinations, county parks are usually lesser known. That’s a shame, because some of them are truly special. Jeollabuk-do has two county parks, one of which is Gangcheonsan. Located southeast of Naejangsan, it is just outside of the small village of Sunchang (see section below). Although this park’s peaks aren’t very dramatic, the big draws here are the gently curving surrounding valleys and streams that flow through them.

To the left of the park’s entrance is a lake, Gangcheon-ho, which usually has clear, calm waters that mirror the surrounding landscape. The area is great to visit any time of year, with cherry blossoms, forsythias, and azaleas blooming in the spring; refreshingly cold waters flowing in cool valleys in the summer; maple trees aflame with color in the fall (autumn); and snow-capped mountains in the winter.

The main hiking trail runs along the stream to Gangcheonsa (Gangcheon Temple). Built in 887 by Monk Doseon Guksa, the temple used to be a huge complex with several associated hermitages, but it was destroyed during the Imjin Waeran in the 1590s, and again during the Korean War. It was reconstructed slowly thereafter but it never again attained its former glory. The buildings are rather unimpressive today, but the setting is still idyllic.

Just beyond the temple is a suspension bridge that was built in 1980. If you cross the bridge and follow the trail up the hillside, you’ll reach a pavilion, where you’ll get the best view of the valley below. From the top of the reservoir there are two steep trails that lead up to the fortress. The southern trail is steeper, while the northern one runs along the ridge.

You can catch a bus to Gangcheonsan from the Sunchang Bus Terminal about 12 times daily from 7am to 6:50pm (taking about 20 min.). Buses also run from Gwangju and Jeong-eup (the one from Jeong-eup stops a few kilometers below the mountain village). Many restaurants, souvenir shops, and a handful of accommodations are available in the small village outside the park’s entrance. Admission is ₩2,000 for adults, ₩1,000 for youth.

Sunchang

Sunchang (the village and county) is well known for its gochujang (chili-pepper paste). It’s so popular, in fact, that it has a museum dedicated to the fermented condiment, the Janghada (Jangnyu Museum), Baeksan-li, Sunchang-eup, Sunchang-gun ( 063/650-5432; www.janghada.com). If you reserve in advance, you can make your own gochujang and take a jar home with you. Visitors can also learn how to make shikhae (the sweet rice drink) and injeolmi (a traditional rice cake dusted in toasted soy bean powder). Open Tuesday to Sunday 9am to 6pm; the last admission is an hour before closing. Admission is free, but it costs ₩24,000 for adults and ₩14,000 for children for the 40-min. experiential program. They even have sleeping quarters for those who want to spend the night in Sunchang.

Nearby, at the foot of Amisan is the Sunchang Gochujang Minsok Maeul (Chile Paste Folk Village) ( 063/653-0703), a relatively new village, where several dozen artisans moved into the town’s hanok (traditional houses) to make and sell their handmade chili paste. Visitors can visit each place and taste the gochujang and jjangajji (picked vegetables), made the old-fashioned way. They even have a Sunchang Gochujang Festival in early November. From the Sunchang bus terminal, take a bus going to either Geumgwa or Jangan Deokcheon, which runs once an hour 6:30am to 7:30pm, and get off at the Gangcheon gas station (about a 10-min. ride).

Buses from Seoul’s Express Bus Terminal go to Sunchang five times daily, at 9:30am, 10:30am, 1:30pm, 2:45pm, and 4:10pm. The ride costs about ₩14,300 and takes about 3 1/2 hours. There are buses from Incheon (via Damyang) to Sunchang twice a day, taking about 5 hours. There are also direct buses from Jeonju (every 30 min. 6:30am to 8:30pm) and from Gwangju (every 20 min. 6am to 9:30pm).

Shopping

Jeollabuk-do is known for its regional traditional crafts. The Iri Gems and Jewelry Center ( 063/835-8007) in Iksan is the only jewelry center in the country. Jewels are processed locally, set, and sold at the center daily, except on Tuesdays. Inside the Wanggung Jewelry Theme Park is the Iksan Jewelry Museum ( 063/859-4641; www.jewelmuseum.go.kr, Korean only, 575-1 Dongyong-li, Wanggung-myeon, Iksan-si), which has an impressive, and unusual, collection of rare gemstones and dinosaur fossils. They host jewelry-making classes each Saturday and Sunday, March to November, open Tuesday through Sunday 10am to 6pm. Admission to the museum is ₩3,000 adults, ₩2,000 teens, ₩1,000 children. Classes are free, but there is a ₩5,000 to ₩10,000 material fee. Also in Iksan is the Jinan Ginseng Center ( 063/433-0292 or 3), which is well known throughout South Korea for its high-quality insam.

As far as traditional crafts are concerned, Gosu ceramics from Gochang and woodenware from Jangsu are representative Korean handiworks that make nice souvenirs. In Gunsan, try the Gunsan Korean Traditional Specialty Products Center ( 063/433-3113) for shopping. If you’re into musical instruments, check out the traditional drums made in Jangsu.

Where to Stay

There are plenty of places to sleep in Muju, most notably the Muju Deogyusan Resort, which includes the modest and economical Gukmin Hotel, at San 43-15 Simgok-li, Seolcheon-myeon, Muju-gun (www.mdysresort.com; 063/320-7000; fax 063/320-7055). As at most resorts in South Korea, the rooms will be a little overpriced, especially during high season. Singles/doubles start at ₩80,000.

In Gunsan, there are two first-class tourist hotels, the Gunsan Riverhill Tourist Hotel ( 063/453-0005, 428-4 Seongdeok-li, Seongsan-myeon, Gunsan-si), and the more upscale Ritz Plaza Hotel ( 1588-4681, 1195-49 Beonji, Namun-dong, Gunsan-si).

Although Iksan’s tourist industry has not begun to boom, the most upscale accommodation in the city is the Grand Plaza Tourist Hotel ( 063/843-7777 or 843-1714, 329-2 Pyeonghwa-dong, Iksan-si). Other lower-price options can be found in the same area, around the Iksan Express Bus Terminal and the train station.

There are a few motels in Gochang and an economical choice is Cheong Green Park Motel ( 063/561-3161 or 011/9627-6072, 512-12 Chiryong-li, Heungdeok-myeon, Gochang-gun), a love motel with doubles starting at ₩35,000.

If you want to stay and have an unusual Korean spa, visit the Jinan Red Ginseng Spa Hotel ★★ (www.redginsengspa.kr; 1588-7597 or 063/433-0393; 744 Danyang-li, Jinan-eup, Jinan-gun) with singles/doubles starting at ₩80,000. Their spa is centered around experiencing the 5 elements and includes a red gingseng-scented communal bubble bath and a rooftop spa with fabulous views of Maisan.

Where to Eat

Other than the bibimbap, the region is famous for its hanjeongshik, which comes with two soups, 13 banchan, four or five vegetable banchan, and a salted fish.

In Muju, try the Jeonju Hangukgwan, 418-19 Deogyu-li, Seolcheon-myeon, Muju-gun ( 063/322-3162), open daily from 7am to 11pm, or Seommaeul, 1357-1 Eupnae-li, Muju-eup, Muju-gun ( 063/322-2799), open daily from 9am to 10pm.

In Gunsan, if you like blue crabs, try Goongjeon Ggotgyejang, 23 beonji, Geumseon-li, Oksan-myeon, Gunsan-si ( 063/466-6677 or 8), with meals ranging from ₩20,000 for a raw crab meal to ₩45,000 for a steamed crab meal. They’re open daily from 10am to 10pm. Geumgang Ggotgyejang, 644-6 Hyeongam-dong, Gunsan-si, also does the local raw crab, but with an inexpensive meal starting at ₩5,000, or you can get a kilo (2.2 IB) of the seasoned blue crab for ₩57,000 to share with friends. If you’re looking for a cheaper meal in Gunsan, Jayu Shigan, 742-1 Jochon-dong, Gunsan-si ( 063/452-7522), whose name translates to “free time,” has kal gooksu (hand-cut noodles) starting at ₩3,000, daily 11am to 2am (they close the second Sun of every month).

There are small restaurants at the entrances to the national and provincial parks, where local owners serve dishes from the region. Ask the ajumma (married women) what the specialty of the region is, or you can’t go wrong ordering the hanshik, which is short for hanjeongshik (traditional Korean meal).

Gwangju

One of the administrative centers of the Baekje Kingdom, Gwangju now looks like any other South Korean city. However, its citizens have an independent spirit, exemplified by Gwangju’s importance in the country’s civic and human rights movements. The last rebellion was May 18, 1980, and echoes can still be felt here today.

Known as the economic and educational center for the region, it is famous for its Art Biennale, held every other year in the fall. If you happen to be in the city in October, don’t miss the Kimchi Festival, a wonderful introduction to Korea’s famed pickled dish.

Surrounded by the great agricultural plains of the region, the city nestles up against Mudeungsan. The old section of town follows the path of a stream, stretching northwest and including the main business and entertainment areas. The best pedestrian street is Jungjang-no, where you’ll find shops, restaurants, cafes, bars, and theaters. Major businesses have their offices in Geumnan-no, which has an arcade of shops underneath the serious businesses. East of Geumnan-no (toward Jungjang-no) is an area called Art Street where you’ll find galleries, traditional teahouses, and art-supply stores.

Essentials

Getting There The Gwangju Airport (KWJ, 062/940-0214; www.airport.co.kr/doc/gwangju_eng) is located 11km (6 3/4 miles) west of the city center in the Gwangsan area of town. It is a domestic airport with flights 8 times a day to and from Seoul’s Gimpo Airport, 10 times a day to and from Jeju-do. There is one flight daily from Shanghai (by China Eastern Airlines) and one flight daily from Shenyang (by China Southern Airlines). You can find out schedules from Asiana Airlines or Korean Air, both of which have offices in the city. Several local buses go from the airport into the city, daily from 5:30am to 10:30pm, costing ₩1,000. The airport limousine bus runs daily from 6:20am to 10:10pm and will set you back ₩1,500. There are, of course, plenty of taxis waiting outside the terminals. Deluxe taxi base fares start at ₩3,500 and regular taxi base fares start at ₩2,200. There is also an airport stop on the city’s one-line subway.

There are plenty of trains to and from Gwangju, since the city has two train stations. The Songjeongni Station ( 062/1544-7788) is not too far from the airport and the Gwangju Station ( 062/514-7788) is closer to the center of town. Trains from Seoul arrive at Yongsan Station and run several times daily. KTX trains are the fastest, run most frequently, cost ₩33,000, and take 2 1/2 to 3 hours. While the Saemaeul trains take about 4 hours, the Mugunghwa trains take about 4 1/2 hours, costing ₩20,000 to ₩29,700.

Buses to and from Gwangju’s Express Bus Terminal ( 062/360-8114) run much more frequently than trains. Direct buses are available from Seoul, DongSeoul, Busan, Daegu, Daejeon, Ulsan, Incheon, Suwon, Wonju, and Jeonju.

Getting Around Gwangju has a small subway system (www.gwangjusubway.co.kr/engsubway/main.jsp), currently with only one line, which is pretty inexpensive, but doesn’t go to far-flung places. A one-way trip costs ₩1,200 (or ₩1,100 with a TravelCard) and ₩400 for children. Trains run 5:30am to midnight daily, and run at 8- to 10-minute intervals, except during rush hours, when they run every 5 to 7 minutes.

You can get a Bitgoeul Card ( 062/226-5053 or 4), which is good for both buses and subways, at subway stations and the Kwangju Bank. The base fee is ₩4,000 and you can recharge the card in any amount from ₩5,000 to ₩500,000. Not only does the card give you a discount on travel (a trip costs ₩1,000 for adults, ₩750 for teens and ₩350 for children), but it allows you a free transfer from subway to bus (or bus to different bus) within 30 minutes, and a free transfer from bus to subway within 1 hour.

Buses are an inexpensive and easy way to get around Gwangju. They run frequently and take you pretty much where you want to go. Bus fares in cash start at ₩1,200 adults, ₩900 for students, and ₩400 for children, and the easiest stop to find downtown is the one in front of the YMCA. For more information on bus routes, consult the tourist information center (see “Visitor Information,” below).

Taxis in Gwangju are fairly inexpensive, costing about ₩15,000 to get across town. Deluxe taxis (the black ones) cost more money, of course, but the drivers tend to drive a bit slower (and safer) and they speak a bit of English.

Visitor Information The Gwangju Tourist Information Center ( 062/525-9370; http://utour.gwangju.go.kr) runs several kiosks throughout the city, including inside the airport in front of the arrival gates on the first floor ( 062/233-3399), open daily 8am to 8pm. There are also tourist information centers at the train station ( 062/522-5147), inside the bus station ( 062/365-8733), at Songjeongni Station Plaza ( 062/941-6301), and on the first floor of the YMCA ( 062/233-9370). The city’s website is http://eng.gjcity.net.

Fast Facts Near the main intersection in Gwangju are the police station, post office, a bank, and some accommodations.

Exploring Gwangju

Gwangju Art & Culture Center ★★ ART MUSEUM The main cultural center of the city (and the region), this is one of the locations for the Gwangju Biennale (which happens during even-numbered years), a showcase of South Korean art and artists.

328-16 Unam-dong, Buk-gu, Gwangju-si. 062/608-4114. Admission ₩1,000 adults, ₩700 teens, ₩300 children. Tues–Sun 9:30am–5pm. Closed on, and the day after, national holidays. Take bus no. 16, 18, 27, 29, 48, 51, 58, 63, 72, 83, 84, 85, or 192. 15 min. by taxi from Gwangju Station.

Gwangju National Museum ★ MUSEUM Among the more than 1,000 items on display here are relics from the Paleolithic age through the Baekje period, pieces from Buddhist temples, and pottery from the Honam region. One of the highlights of the museum’s collection is an assortment of 14th-century Chinese ceramics from a shipwreck discovered in 1975.

114 Bakmulgwan-lo, Maegok-dong, Buk-gu, Gwangju-si. 062/570-7000. http://gwangju.museum.go.kr/eng/index.jsp. Admission free. Tues–Fri 9am–6pm; Sat until 9pm Mar–Dec, Sun and holidays 9am–7pm (ticket booth closes 1 hr. earlier). Closed Jan 1. Take bus no. 16, 19, 26, 35, 55, or 745 to the museum. The museum is on the edge of Biennale Park.

Jeungshimsa (Jeungshim Temple) ★ TEMPLE Located in western Mudeungsan, this temple was founded by Julgam Seonsa during the Shilla Dynasty. Like many of Korea’s temples, it was destroyed during the Korean War and rebuilt. On-site is the oldest structure in the area, the Obaek-jeon, which houses 500 Nahan statues and the 10 judges of the underworld. Just about a kilometer up from Jeungshimsa is Yaksasa, the only temple in the city that survived destruction during the Korean War.

56 Unlim-dong, Dong-gu, Gwangju-si. 062/226-0107. Free admission. 24 hr. but best to visit 9am–6pm so as not to disturb the monks. Bus nos. 15, 23, 27, 52, 106, 555, 771, and 1001 go to the Jeungshimsa entrance. Parking available.

Gwangju Folk Museum MUSEUM In the same park as the Gwangju National Museum (it’s a 15-min. walk between the two) is the folk museum. Most of the important relics from the region are in the national museum, and this museum’s collection is mostly geared toward dioramas, depicting lifestyle and folk traditions of the Honam region.

1004-4 Yongbong-dong, Buk-gu, Gwangju-si. 062/613-5337. http://gjfm.gwangju.go.kr/index.do?S=S22 (Korean only). Admission ₩500 adults, ₩300 youths, ₩200 children. Tues–Sun 9:30am–5pm. Closed days after national holidays. Take the bus to the National Museum and walk from there.

May 18th National Cemetery MONUMENT Opened in 1997, the cemetery was created to commemorate the civilian casualties from an uprising that occurred on May 18, 1980. Similar but smaller than the Tiananmen Square massacre, the Gwangju uprising was fueled by student protests demanding democracy. The official count was 259 dead, but many claim that there were hundreds more. A short walk through the memorial garden leads to the cemetery where the victims were initially buried.

34 Unjeong-dong, Buk-gu, Gwangju-si. Free admission. Mar–Oct daily 8am–7pm; Nov–Feb until 5pm. From Gwangju Express Bus Terminal, take bus no. 25-2 or 311, which takes 30 min., and runs every 40 min. Bus no. 518 also comes here. Parking available.

Mudeungsan (Mt. Mudeung) Provincial Park ★★ PARK Overlooking Gwangju city, this beautiful mountain is an easy climb. The highest peak is Cheonwang-bong with two other lower peaks. The best views are in the Wonhyo Valley (on the north) and Yeongchu Valley (on the south). At the base of the mountain there are famous temples: Yaksa-am, Jeungshimsa, and Wonhyosa. The mountain is gorgeous all yearround, even in the white of winter. It is famous for the tea that’s grown at the Chunseol Tea Plantation, as well as the mountain-grown watermelon that used to be a favorite gift for royalty. All of the dozen or so trails here have their own charm, but only a couple go through the forest.

Hwasun-gun, Damyang-gun, Jeollanam-do or Jisan-dong, Dong-gu, Gwangju-si. 062/365-1187 (Korean only). Free admission. Parking ₩2,000. From Gwangju Station, take bus no. 18 to Wonhyosa or take bus no. 777 or 1187 from other parts of the city. Bus nos. 9, 15, 27, 52, 555, 771, and 1001 go to the Jeungshimsa entrance.

Wonhyosa (Wonhyo Temple) TEMPLE Located near the entrance to the Mudeungsan Provincial Park, Wonhyosa was also founded by the famous Great Monk Wonhyo. Excavations show that the temple was built at the end of the Shilla Dynasty and renovated during the reign of Goryeo King Chungsuk (1314–39). Destroyed during the Korean War, it was rebuilt from the mid-1950s to the 1960s. Three of the main buildings were renovated in the 1980s. During the renovation some 100 relics of copper, gold, and clay were excavated; these are on exhibit at the Gwangju National Museum.

3-3, Maegok-dong, Buk-gu, Gwangju-si. 062/266-0326 (Korean only). Free admission. 24 hr. but best to visit 9am–6pm so as not to disturb the monks. From Gwangju Station, take bus no. 18 to Wonhyosa. From the provincial office, take bus no. 777.

Shopping

Gwangju is a traditional city in the middle of an agricultural area. Specialties of the area include handmade brushes (for calligraphy and ink painting), lacquerware, and tea grown in nearby Mudeungsan.

Stop by Art Street★★ ( 062/233-9370), which becomes the Gaemi Shijang (“Ant” Market) on Saturdays, a flea market where you’ll find local art and antiques. Even on weekdays this three-street area is the city’s cultural hub. Masters of pansori and gayageum (a traditional Korean “zither”), as well as master calligraphers and potters, live and work in the area. Be sure to check out the beautiful musical instruments and the calligraphic works from the region. To reach Art Street, located behind the Jung-ang Elementary School, take bus no. 11, 17, 30, 222, or 333 to the Docheong bus stop and walk about 5 minutes.

For more modern shopping, head to the nearby Migliore Department Store, ( 1588-9101; www.mc12.co.kr, Korean only, 25-1 Chungjang-no1(il)-ga, Gwangju-si), which incidentally has a cinema and a great 24-hour sauna on the 11th floor. You can’t miss it since it’s the tallest building you’ll see when you get out of the Geumnamno 4(sa)-ga subway station. You would never know that the Geumnam-no area had historic significance as the route the demonstrating militia took in order to protest on May 18th. It now fills up every night with young people shopping, eating, and drinking at the many restaurants and boutique shops here. For bargains, head underground to the Geumnam Underground Shopping Center.

Where to Stay

Of course Gwangju has a large number of accommodations to choose from, ranging from your budget quarters to high-end, tourist-class hotels. You can find inexpensive motels throughout the city, but the most convenient ones are located near the train station. There are some low-priced options also near Art Street.

Expensive

Holiday Inn Gwangju ★★ Located near the Kim Daejeong Convention Center, it’s convenient for the subway and a good option for business travelers. Rooms are spacious, quiet, and clean with rain showerheads. The young, eager staff will go out of their way to be helpful.

1158 Chipyeong-dong, Seo-gu, Gwangju-si. http://holidayinngwangju.com/eng/html/main.asp. 062/610-7000. Fax 063/610-7099. 205 units. ₩320,000 standard room; ₩490,000 and up suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurants; bar; lounge; indoor pool; fitness center; sauna; business center; laundry/dry cleaning service; meeting rooms; safe. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, bathrobe, free Internet.

Mudeung Park Hotel At the base of Mudeungsan at Jisan Park, this high-end hotel has seen better days. The rooms have nice views of the mountain and comfortable beds—quite a nice combination. The staff are friendly, but speak poor English. Both ondol rooms and beds are available.

San 63-1, Jisan-dong, Dong-gu, Gwangju-si. www.hotelmudeungpark.co.kr. 062/226-0011. Fax 063/285-5707. 110 units. ₩140,000 standard room; ₩435,000 and up suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; cafe; pool; driving range; hot springs spa; sauna; night club; bowling alley; bakery. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, hair dryer.

Ramada Plaza Gwangju ★★ One of the few world-class hotels in Gwangju, they have both regular rooms and residential suites for those looking for a longer stay. Comfortable linens, spacious rooms, and floor-to-ceiling windows make for a good stay. Ask for a higher-floor room if you want a view. The top floor has a breakfast buffet, which turns into a bar at night.

1238 Chipyeong-dong, Seo-gu, Gwangju-si. www.ramadagwangju.com. 062/717-7000. Fax 063/717-7700. 205 units. ₩320,000 standard room; ₩490,000 and up suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurants; bar; coffee shop; fitness center; Jacuzzi; sauna; business center; massage; meeting rooms; safe. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, Internet (fee).

Moderate

Santamo Tourist Hotel ★ For the price, you’ll get a relatively spacious room with clean and comfortable beds. The hotel is close to a subway station and convenient for banks and restaurants. The staff will make up in friendliness what they lack in English. Both Korean and Western-style rooms are available.

1585-2 Usan-dong, Gwangsan-gu, Gwangju-si. www.hotelsantamo.co.kr. 062/956-5000. Fax 062/956-3000. 54 units. ₩70,000 and up single/double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; cafe; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.

Inexpensive

Geumsujang Hotel ★ Located within walking distance from the train station, this hotel has more ondol rooms than Western beds, but usually has Western options available. Really a bargain for a hotel of its class, the rooms are clean and spacious compared to most South Korean hotels in this price range. The restaurant and amenities are excellent for the price.

559-1 Gyerim-dong, Dong-gu, Gwangju-si. 062/525-2111. 45 units. ₩45,000 standard room. MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; cafe; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Internet.

Gwangsan-gu Youth Hostel If you’re on a budget, you can’t get any cheaper than this hostel. Good for both solo travelers and families, the hostel offers shared kitchen and laundry facilities. The location has great amenities for the price.

38-3, Songhak-dong, Gwangsan-gu, Gwangju. www.gsyouth.or.kr (Korean only). 062/943-4378. 49 units. ₩12,000 bed. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; pool; health club; shared kitchen; TV room.

Windmill Motel A love motel in downtown Gwangju, you can’t miss the giant windmill on the building. Ask for a “PC bahng” if you want a computer with Internet access, or pay a bit more for a deluxe room with better furnishings.

42-6 Honam-dong, Dong-gu, Gwangju. www.windmillmotel.co.kr. (Korean only) 062/223-5333. 37 units. ₩30,000–45,000 double. MC, V. Amenities: none. In room: A/C, cable TV, mini-fridge, hair dryer.

Where to Eat

There are a couple of neighborhoods in the city with concentrations of restaurants specializing in certain dishes. There is Oritang (Duck Soup) Street on Yudong Street, which is the alley next to the Hyundai Department Store. Most restaurants are open daily 9am to 10pm (a few stay open into the wee hours). A whole duck costs around ₩30,000, or ₩20,000 for a half portion. Grilled duck (seasoned with salt and sesame oil) goes for about ₩35,000.

In Jisan-dong, there is a street called “The Street of Traditional Food” where there are dozens of restaurants specializing in bolibap (barley rice). Located in the Jisan Resort near the Mudeungsanjang, the restaurants here serve bowls of barley rice with seasonal vegetables, spicy chili paste, and a spoonful of sesame oil. Supposedly health food, it’s also quite tasty and will cost you only about ₩5,000 for a bowl. Many restaurants in the area are open 24 hours.

If you’re into fresh seafood, look no further than Hwae Town at the Daein Market. Over a dozen raw-fish restaurants are lined up between the Gwangju Dongmun Bridge and the market in Gyelim-dong. The Living Fish Center is open 24 hours, but the restaurants are open daily from 10am to midnight. You can get your fill of raw fish for about ₩30,000 to ₩80,000.

For the beef lovers among us, the area in front of the Gwangsan-gu Office in Songjeong-dong is the place to go. Your nose will lead you to the collection of ddeok galbi joints in the alley there. Ddeok galbi, supposedly invented by a halmuhni (grandma) in Jeonju, is made by mincing beef rib and other beef parts, shaping it into a square like a Korean rice cake (ddeok), and roasting it on charcoal. An order of the delicious beef costs about ₩10,000, and all of the places on this street are excellent.

If you’re tired of Korean food and don’t mind splurging a bit, stop in at Pariparamong, 120-2 Shinan-dong, Buk-gu, Gwangju-si ( 062/528-2251). They specialize in high-end European cuisine. Although the food may not be “authentic,” you’ll get great service if you want a break from rice and noodles. Meat-course meals start at ₩38,000 and the house-special full course is ₩80,000.

Damyang

Located just 22km (14 miles) north of Gwangju is the center of the country’s bamboo cultivation. Filled with stunning bamboo forests, Damyang-gun (Damyang County) will be one of the most scenic stops on your South Korea journey. Although plastics have replaced the everyday use of many bamboo products, the area still attracts visitors who are drawn to the quiet, simple beauty of the bamboo groves. Other than its famous bamboo products, there are many pavilions and historical places where literary works have been created in centuries past. Once you visit the area, you’ll see why scholars and poets were inspired by the beauty of the surrounding mountains and the fields to write. If you’re here during the spring, don’t miss the Bamboo Festival (http://bamboofestival.co.kr/ENG/02_part/part_01.jsp).

Essentials

Getting There There is no direct train to Damyang, but you can take a train to Gwangju and take either a bus or a taxi on to Damyang. Intercity buses that run to Damyang from the Gwangju Bus Terminal run daily from 6am to 10:30pm, every 10 minutes.

You can take a bus directly from Seoul to Damyang daily at either 10:10am or 4:10pm. The nearly 4-hour ride costs ₩15,900 to ₩23,600. If you’re driving, take the Honam Expressway (road 25 from Seoul) and follow the signs to get off at Damyang. You’ll pass through the Metasequoia Road, a small stretch of scenic road, lined on both sides by the tall trees creating a canopy of leaves in the spring and summer and dramatic snow-covered branches in the winter.

Getting Around Local buses will take you pretty much anywhere you want to go; the only problem is that they run pretty infrequently (about every hour or two) from select destinations. So make sure you know what time the return bus is so that you’re not stuck waiting an hour for the next bus.

If you’re not the adventurous type and prefer to take a tour, you can catch a bus tour ( 061/380-3154) of Damyang at the Gwangju Station Plaza. The tour starts just before 9am on Saturdays and Sundays and takes 6 1/2 hours. There are 4 different routes that alternate on different Saturdays and Sundays, costing ₩17,000 per person.

Visitor Information Contact the Damyang Culture and Tourism Department at 061/380-3150 or http://eng.damyang.go.kr/eng.

Exploring Damyang

Bamboo Theme Park (Daenamugol Tema Pakeuh) ★ NATURAL ATTRACTION The largest bamboo forest in Korea, it was designed by Shin Bokjin, a former photographer. Taking more than 30 years to create, this bamboo garden is thick with grass, which makes it especially nice to hear the rustling of the leaves when the wind passes through.

51 san, Bongseo-li, Geumseong-myeon, Damyang-gun. 061/383-9291. Admission ₩2,000 adults, ₩1,500 students, ₩1,000 children. Daily 9am–5pm. From the Damyang Bus Terminal, buses leave daily at 8am, 11am, 1:10pm, and 8pm, returning from the park 20 min. after departing. By car, from the Damyang IC, take road 24 toward Sunchang, turn right after Seokyeongyo bridge, and follow the signs to the park.

Byeongpungsan (Folding Screen Mountain) HIKING TRAIL When you see the highest point in Damyang, you’ll understand immediately how it got its name—the rock outline does indeed resemble a folding screen. Two lakes atop the mountain run down to provide water to the Yeongsan River. There is a nice hiking trail that goes through Mannamjae Pass, Mumyeongbong Peak, and Daebang Lake; it is about 9km (5 2/3 miles) long and takes about 4 hours to complete.

Subuk-myeon, Damyang-gun. 061/380-3150 or 4. Free admission. From the Damyang Bus Terminal, buses run here about 13 times a day. From Gwangju, take a bus to Subuk-myeon and catch a local bus to Byeongpungsan. The bus runs about every 40 min.

Chuwolsan (Mt. Chuwol) NATURAL ATTRACTION Located on the border of Bukheong-myeon, Sunchang-gun, and Yong-myeon, Damyang-gun, this is said to be one of the most beautiful mountains in Jeollanam-do. The strange rock formations jut out between green bushes and flowering shrubs, creating a wonderful backdrop for hiking.

Wolgye-li, Yong-myeon, Damyang-gun. 061/380-2794. Free admission. From the Damyang local bus station, buses run about 4 times a day. By car, pass the Damyang IC, going toward Damyang, and cross the Dang-eup Hyanggyo, taking national road 29 at the Yongmyeon 3-way, follow the signs to Chuwolsan. The entrance to the hiking trail is right after the Chuwolsan tunnel.

Damyang Bamboo Museum MUSEUM This is the place to learn everything you’ve ever wanted to know (and some things you didn’t realize you wanted to know) about bamboo. Created to promote the region’s prime agricultural product, it has more than 2,500 bamboo products on display, dating from the Joseon Dynasty to modern day. With over a 500-year history, the bamboo products of the region are made by skilled craftsmen, whose art has been handed down through generations.

401-1, Cheonbyeon-li, Damyang-eup, Damyang-gun. 061/380-3114. www.damyang.go.kr/museum/ (Korean only). Admission ₩1,000 19 and over, ₩700 teens, ₩500 ages 7–12, free for children 7 and under and seniors 65 and over. Daily 9am–6pm, last admission 30 min. before closing. From Gwangju, take the express bus going toward Damyang and get off at the Baekdong intersection. From Damyang, take local bus no. 311 or 322 and get off at the Baekdong intersection (and walk 1 min. from there). You have to catch the return bus on the main road (a 5-min. walk from the museum). It’s a 15-min. walk from the bus terminal.

Jungnogwon (Bamboo Garden) NATURAL ATTRACTION Take a walk through this natural bamboo forest for a relaxing time. Although the bamboo here has been around for centuries, they’ve added some cheesy things (like statues of fake pandas frolicking). The rustling of the bamboo and catching the light through the tall grasses is still a treat for the senses. Springtime is a nice time to visit, but summer is when the bamboo is at its greenest.

37-6 Hyanggyo-li, Damyang-eup, Damyang-gun. 061/380-3244. www.juknokwon.org (Korean only). Admission ₩2,000 adults, ₩1,000 children, free for children 6 and under and seniors 65 and over. Daily 9am–7pm. Take bus no. 303 or 311 and get off at Jungnogwon, then walk about 5 min. Alternatively, take a taxi from the Damyang Bus Station—it should cost under ₩3,500.

Soswaewon (Soswae Garden) ★★★ GARDEN This small private garden, whose name means “clean and refreshing,” was built by Yang Sanbo (1503–57) when he decided to retire into nature. One of the representative gardens of the Joseon Dynasty, it was created in 1530. The original 10 buildings were designed so that the inhabitants could best see and hear nature around them. Only a few of them remain today. Still, it is a beautiful garden (sometimes compared to Thoreau’s Walden, though much smaller in scale) and you can see how someone was inspired to write and grow old there.

123 Jigok-li, Nam-myeon, Damyang-gun. 061/382-1071. www.soswaewon.co.kr (Korean only). Admission ₩1,000 ages 19 and over, ₩700 teens, ₩500 ages 7–12, free for children 6 and under and seniors 65 and over. Daily 9am–6pm. From Gwangju Bus Station, take local bus no. 225 (it’s an hour ride and the bus runs every 40 min.). Driving from Seoul, take the Honam Expwy. (road 25) toward Damyang. From Damyang, take Hwy. 12 to local road 887 and follow the signs.

Shopping

As you’d figure, you can find all manner of bamboo products, from back scratchers to works of art created by master craftsmen. The Traditional Bamboo Market is held every 5 days or so (when the date ends with a 2 or 7) by the flats of the Baekchon River. The market starts around 7am and goes to midafternoon. If you miss those days, you can still find stores that sell bamboo wares any day of the week.

Where to Stay

The Damyang Resort Spa & Hotel, 399 Wonyeul-li, Geumseong-myeon, Damyang-gun (www.damyangresort.com; 061/380-5000; fax 061/381-0606), is the only upscale accommodation available in the area and has standard rooms starting at ₩159,000. It is on 13 hectares (32 acres) of land and has several spas, a swimming pool, and its own arboretum and pond. If you just want to visit the spa ( 061/380-5111) and swimming pool, it’ll cost ₩10,000.

There are plenty of love motels in the area, and most of them will set you back ₩35,000 to ₩45,000 for a double. Many of them won’t take reservations, but generally it isn’t difficult to get a room, even during high season in the summer. You just pay cash at the front desk when you check in and leave the key at the desk when you go. Just down the road from Soswaewon is the Lucky House, 55 Yeoncheon-li, Nam-myeon, Damyang-gun ( 061/382-3312), which has the characteristic circular beds.

If you’re looking for other budget accommodations, try the Park Village, 119-1 Unam-li, Daeduk-myeon, Damyang-gun ( 061/383-7800), which has rooms for ₩30,000 to ₩40,000 a night. Another inexpensive option is the Best Yeogwan, 52 Yeoncheon-li, Nam-myeon, Damyang-gun ( 061/383-8800), which also has rooms for ₩35,000 a night.

Where to Eat

The specialty of the region is bamboo, of course. So, perhaps not surprisingly, you’ll find dishes made with bamboo shoots, bamboo tea, and daetong bap (rice steamed in the hollow of bamboo stalks). Some places add other grains, chestnuts, pine nuts—you name it—to the rice, and these additions mix well with the subtle flavor infused by the bamboo. Chefs also cook chicken in a bamboo pot (the chicken is mixed with rice, jujubes, and chestnuts). Another regional specialty is ddeok galbi, an especially tasty beef rib dish from the area.

There are many places that serve these regional specialties, but a couple of places of note include Songjukjeong (located in front of the Bamboo Museum; 061/381-3291), which is slightly better than the Bakmulgwan Apjip (whose name means “house in front of the museum”; 061/381-1990), though the latter also serves good regional specialties. One of the best joints in town is Hyang-gyo Juknogwon ★★★, Hyang-gyo-li, Damyang-eup ( 061/381-9596), which serves bamboo-steamed rice with a wonderful array of banchan for the usual ₩10,000.

Boseong & Yulpo

Just as Damyang is synonymous with bamboo, mention Boseong-gun (Boseong County) to any Korean and they’ll immediately think of green tea. The region reportedly produces nearly 70% of the country’s tea leaves.

With beautiful scenery in any season, the best time to visit is spring, when there is a Dahyangje Festival (The “Aroma of Tea” Festival) in early May and when you can watch women harvesting the bright green new leaves by hand.

Yulpo is a seaside town just down the mountain from the Boseong tea fields. There you will find hot springs where you can soak in green tea baths, enjoy foods made with green tea, and stay in an inexpensive yeogwan or minbak near the ocean. Yulpo beach is best visited in July or August, when the water is at its warmest.

Essentials

Getting There There is no direct train to Boseong from Seoul, but you can take a train to Gwangju and then take a bus from the Gwangju Intercity Bus Terminal. Buses bound for Boseong come every 30 minutes, and the ride lasts about 90 minutes. You can also take a 5-hour ride to Suncheon, then take an hour bus ride from there. From Boseong-eup, take a bus bound for Yulpo or the Daehan Daeup (Boseong Tea Plantation; see listing below). The Yulpo-bound buses run every 30 minutes, and it’s a 15-minute ride.

You can take a bus directly from Seoul’s Express Bus Terminal to the Boseong Bus Terminal. Buses run twice a day from Seoul at 8:10am and 3:10pm (more frequently in the spring) and take just under 5 hours. Other than Seoul and Gwangju, you can also catch buses to Boseong from Suncheon, Yeosu, Busan, and Masan, which all run several times a day.

Getting Around There are local buses that run from the Boseong Bus Terminal. Most of them run on a 30- to 60-minute schedule, so plan accordingly. You can also catch taxis outside the bus terminal, or flag them down if you see them pass on the street.

Visitor Information The website for Boseong County ( 061/850-5224) is www.boseong.go.kr.

Exploring Boseong & Yulpo

Daehan Dawon (aka Boseong Dawon, Tea Plantation) ★★★ WALKING TRAIL Established in 1939, this still-operating tea plantation is open to tourists year-round. The best time to come is early in the morning, so you can watch the fog lift from the lush green fields. It’s easier to take the paths to the side of the fields than the steep wooden stairs that go straight up, but it’s worth the climb, since the view of the fields from the top is pretty spectacular. You know these must be old fields since they’ve left a couple of family burial mounds undisturbed in the middle of the tea bushes.

1291, Bongsan-li, Boseong-eup, Boseong-gun. 061/852-4540. www.daehantea.co.kr (Korean only). Admission ₩2,000 adults, ₩1,000 youth and seniors 65 and over. Daily 9am–7pm; until 6pm in winter. From Boseong, take the local bus bound for Yulpo and get off at Daehan Dawon. The bus runs every 30 min. and it’s a 15-min. ride. By car, take road 18 (past road 2) toward Yulpo and the plantation will be on your right side.

Daewonsa (Daewon Temple) TEMPLE One of the oldest Buddhist temples in South Korea, it was originally founded during the Baekje era and rebuilt during the Shilla Dynasty. They offer a temple stay based on the theme “Let us prepare for death,” which has programs on death invocations and praying before death. The road to the temple is lined with cherry trees that bloom beautifully in the spring. The temple proper is located behind the Tibetan Museum ( 061/852-3038), which houses a collection of over 600 pieces, brought over by Monk Hyeonjang.

On Cheonbongsan, Juksan-li, Mundeok-myeon, Boseong-gun. 061/852-1755. Admission ₩2,000 adults, ₩1,000 youth. Daily 10am–6pm, closes at 5pm in winter. From Boseong, take a local bus to Daewonsa. If you’re driving, take road 18 to road 15 (toward Gwangju) and follow the signs to the Daewonsa.

Yulpo Haesu Nokchatahng NATURAL ATTRACTION In Yulpo, you can visit the hot springs, where you can soak in a hot bath of seawater and green tea. Located on the seaside, down the mountain road from the tea plantations, the hot springs are small with only four pools and one sauna, but you get a view of the ocean while you soak.

Dongyul-li, 678, Hoecheon-myeon, Boseong-gun. 061/853-4566. Admission ₩5,000. Daily 6am–10pm. From Boseong, take the local bus bound for Yulpo and get off at the nokchatahng (green tea bath), and walk on the road perpendicular to the main road. The bus runs every 20 min., takes 25 min., and costs ₩1,300. From the Daehan Dawon, the bus will cost ₩850.

Shopping

Save room in your luggage for some green tea, since you can buy the products straight from the source, including hyunmi nokcha (green tea with toasted brown rice), the naeng nokcha (tea bags for making iced green tea in cold water), and galu nokcha (green tea powder). Other than Daehan Dawon, there are dozens of other green tea plantations in Boseong that sell their green tea products directly.

For other items, try the traditional O-il Jang (“5-day” Markets) in Boseong County. The Boknae-myeon Shijang, 152-14 Boknae-li, Boseong-gun, and the Joseong-myeon Shijang are open on dates that end in 3 or 8. The Boseung-eup Shijang, 2-1 Wonbong-li, Boseung-eup, Boseong-gun, and the Deungryang-myeon Shijang, 446 Yedang-li, Deukryang-myeon, are held on dates that end in 2 or 7. The Beolgyeo-eup Shijang, 663-2 Hwaejeong-li, Beolgyeo-eup, Boseong-gun, and the Hwacheonmyeon Shijang in Hwacheon-myeon are open on dates that end in 4 or 9.

Where to Stay

There aren’t many places to stay in Boseong, since it is mainly an agricultural area. However, if you want to overnight in the region, you can stay at any number of minbak or yeogwan in the seaside town of Yulpo. Most places are similar and usually cost ₩30,000 to ₩40,000, but prices can double during the popular summer season.

For a unique experience, you and your family can stay overnight at the Ungchi Vacation Farm, 1412-4 Gangsan-li, Ungchi-myeon, Boseong-gun ( 061/852-6300), a sortof government-run farm, located in the middle of a dense pine forest. They have a huge mushroom field, freshwater shrimp, chickens, and a deer “farm” within an enclosed forest.

Where to Eat

This being the green tea region of the country, it stands to reason that you’ll find many dishes featuring it as a special ingredient. These include nokcha sujebi (green tea dough flake soup), nokcha naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles with green tea), and nokcha kalgooksu (handmade noodles with green tea).

Other than the two restaurants at the Daehan Dawon, you can try regional specialties at places in Yulpo, including Nokcha Hyangi (the name means “the fragrance of green tea”), 321-1 Yulpo-li, Hwacheon-myeon, Boseong-gun ( 070/8824-9790). Located close to the Yulpo Nokchatahng, they serve all manner of green tea dishes (even a green tea pork cutlet, nokcha donkatsu), which start at ₩5,000.

There are some restaurants in Boseong, too, including Teukmi Gwan, located in front of the Boseong Hyang-gyo, 93-13 Boseong-li, Boseong-eup, Boseong-gun ( 061/852-4545). They specialize in pork and beef dishes, but you can also get regional green tea dishes, including their nokcha naengmyeon with bright green tea noodles, starting at ₩6,000. For a traditional hanjeongshik, Hangil-lo ( 061/ 852-3281, 766-3 Boseong-li, Boseong-eup, Boseong-gun) is a solid option with meals at ₩10,000, or hwae plates starting at ₩20,000.

Yeosu & Suncheon

Located on the southern coast of the peninsula, Yeosu is a pretty little port city. The town, whose name means “beautiful water,” is located on the western end of the Hallyeo Haesang National Park. The city includes 317 tiny islands off the coast, most of them uninhabited. A couple of those islands, Odong-do and Dolsan-do, are now connected by bridges to the mainland. Yeosu was the naval command center for Admiral Yi Sunshin, who invented the turtle ship (). There is still a full-size replica of one of the iron-clad ships that helped defeat the Japanese navy.

Sitting pretty on the upper end of the Yeosu Peninsula, just 40 minutes from Yeosu, is Suncheon. Sometimes called the “City of Beautiful People,” it is the second-largest metropolis in Jeollanam-do. Nearby is Jogyesan Provincial Park, which surrounds Mt. Jogye. At its base are two Seon (Zen) Buddhist temples which have been instrumental in introducing and spreading this sect in Korea.

Both cities, currently experiencing rapid expansion and industrialization, are in danger of losing some of their original charm.

Essentials

Getting There There are direct flights from Seoul’s Gimpo Airport to Yeosu Airport, 979 Sinpung-li, Yulchon-myeon, Yeosu-si (RSU; 061/689-6300; www.airport.co.kr/doc/yeosu_eng), which is located equidistant to Yeosu and Suncheon. Asiana Airlines and Korean Airlines offer a total of eight flights daily to and from Gimpo Airport. Korean Airlines has one flight daily to and from Jeju-do. There are both airport limousine and local buses available to Yeosu or Suncheon. Local service starts at ₩1,500.

Yeosu is the last stop on the Jeolla line, which starts in Iksan. There are 15 daily trains from Seoul’s Yongsan station to Suncheon with just as many trains from Suncheon to Yeosu, with the total trip taking about 6 hours. Trains run once a day to Mokpo, Iksan, and Jinju, and more frequently to Busan.

Buses from Seoul’s Express Bus station to Yeosu run daily about once every hour from 6am to 11pm. Fares start at ₩30,600 and the ride lasts about 5 1/2 hours. Daily buses from Busan run every 40 minutes and take about 3 hours. Daily buses from Gwangju run every 30 minutes and take about 2 hours. Express buses run from Daegu also, but from other cities, you’ll have to take regular intercity buses, which take a bit longer.

From the Yeosu Ferry Terminal ( 061/663-0117), you can take boats to and from islands, including Jeju-do, Geomun-do, Geumo-do, Sa-do, Yeon-do, Oenaro-do, and Cho-do.

If you’re driving, take either the Honam Expressway (road 25) or the Namhae Expressway to the Suncheon IC. To get to Yeosu from there, take national highway 17 and follow the signs to Yeosu.

Getting Around Both Suncheon and Yeosu have good bus systems that will carry you around the cities, between them, and to sites on the outskirts of each. Most buses in Yeosu start from the bus terminal and run through downtown. In Suncheon, you can catch buses from (and between) both the bus terminal and the train station.

Suncheon offers a free city tour that starts from Suncheon Station. There are 5 different routes that vary depending on the day of the week. Unfortunately, the guides only speak Korean, but it’s a convenient way to get to the bay, Naganeupseong, and nearby temples.

There is one Yeosu city tour ( 061/666-1201 or 061/690-2036) starting in front of Yeosu Station daily at 10:30am, returning around 6:10pm. Unfortunately, the commentary is only in Korean or Japanese, but they’ll take you to the city’s top spots, including Hyangiram for a mere ₩3,000 adults, ₩1,000 youth. Admission fees aren’t included and you’ll have to reserve a spot in advance.

Visitor Information You can find a tourist information center ( 061/690-2939) on the first floor of the Yeosu Airport. There is also one at the entrance to Odong-do ( 061/664-8978), one at Yeosu harbor ( 061/690-7532), and one in front of the Suncheon Train Station. The Yeosu city website is http://yeosu.go.kr and Suncheon’s is http://english.suncheon.go.kr.

Fast Facts In Yeosu, the post office is located on the city’s main street. You will find many banks and businesses around the old city center. Most banks are open from 9am to 4:30pm Monday to Friday.

In Suncheon, the post office is just a little way down from the train station. Most banks can be found in the business district between the bus terminal and the central market.

Exploring Yeosu & Suncheon

Goindol (Dolmen) Park ★★ HISTORIC SITE One of UNESCO’s World Heritage sites, the park has a collection of dolmen (megalithic stone tombs) and other relics uncovered from 49 villages in Suncheon, Boseong, and Hwasun counties. They were excavated before the Juam Lake creation in 1984, when the land was submerged. The original excavated area included Paleolithic sites with a total of 140 dolmens from nine different clusters.

466 Usan-li, Songgwang-myeon, Suncheon-si. 061/755-8363. www.dolmenpark.com. Admission ₩700 adults, ₩350 teens, ₩300 children. Mar–Oct daily 9am–6pm; Nov–Feb daily 9am–5pm. Take bus no. 63, which takes you right in front of Dolmen Park.

Hyangilam TEMPLE Originally a small mountain-top hermitage, Hyangilam is now a turtle-themed temple complex. There are 291 steps up to the temple, where you’ll get a spectacular view of the ocean. It is said that if you make a wish watching the sunrise from here on New Year’s morning, your wish will come true. Superstitions aside, the sunrise on any day is quite spectacular and arriving in time to catch it is a great way to beat the busloads of tourists who arrive in the afternoon. Don’t bother waiting for the free shuttle bus (especially when they take their lunch break noon–1pm), because it’s just a short ride to the foot of Impo Village, where you’ll have to pass a gauntlet of ajumma trying to sell you got (mustard) kimchi. You’ll have to walk the difficult part uphill anyway. There are plenty of small motels in the village below if you want to catch the sunrise in the morning.

San 7 Yullim-li, Dolsan-eup, Yeosu-si. 061/644-4742 (Korean). Admission ₩2,000 adults, ₩1,500 teens, ₩1,000 children, free for kids 6 and under. Mar–Oct and Dec–Jan daily 6am–10pm; Nov and Feb daily 6am–9pm. Parking ₩2,500. From Yeosu Station, take bus no. 111 or 113. The ride lasts just over an hour.

Naganeupseong Folk Village ★ CASTLE In ancient feudal fashion, this folk village consists of a “castle,” with about 100 families still living inside the fortress walls. It is a wonderful snapshot of how the people of the region used to live, with their thatched roofs and clay kitchens. If you happen to be here for the first full moon of the year, you’ll be able to see a traditional folk celebration. The rest of the year, be sure to make your way up to the castle to take in the view of the entire village.

Dongnae-li/Seonae-li/Namnae-li, Nakan-myeon, Suncheon-si. 061/749-3347. www.nagan.or.kr. Admission ₩2,000 adults, ₩1,500 teens, ₩1,000 children. Dec–Jan daily 9am–5pm, Feb–Apr 9am–6pm, May–Oct 8:30am–6:30pm. Closed Lunar New Year and Chuseok. Free parking. From either Suncheon Train Station or the bus terminal, take bus no. 61, 63, or 68 (takes 50 min.).

Odong-do (Odong Island) ★ WALKING TRAIL Now connected by a bridge and a walkway, this rocky island is the perfect place for a leisurely stroll. The best time to go is right around sunset, just in time to see the island’s dancing fountains, whose lights change color and water moves to piped-in music. You’ll have a prime view of the city and port lights when you walk back after sundown. The island is famous for its camellias, which bloom from around mid-February to mid-March. Boat trips around the island start from the wharf. Some will cross Dolsan Bridge and Hangilam.

San 1-1, Sujeong-dong, Yeosu-si. 061/690-7303. Admission free. Daily 6am–midnight in summer, until 11pm in winter. Lighthouse daily 9:30am–5pm. Bus nos. 2, 8, 10, 17, 18, 85-1, 101, 103, 107, and 555 all take you to the entrance. If you don’t want to walk the 15 min. to the island, you can take the little train, which costs ₩500 adults, ₩400 youth, ₩300 children. Parking ₩600/hr., ₩6,000 daily maximum.

Seonamsa (Seonam Temple) ★★ TEMPLE This beautiful temple is on the west side of Jogyesan. You’ll have to walk about 1km (2⁄3 miles) from the mountain’s entrance to reach the temple, but the walk along the valley past two arched bridges (one is Seungseon Bridge, considered South Korea’s most beautiful stone bridge) is a pleasant one. If you have time, take the hiking course to the left of the temple. It takes you to Ma-aebuli, the 17m-tall (56-ft.) sculpture engraved on a rock.

Jukhak-li, Seungju-eup, Suncheon-si. 061/754-5247. www.seonamtemple.com (Korean only). Admission ₩1,500 adults, ₩1,000 teens, ₩600 children, free for seniors 65 and over and kids 6 and under. Daily 4am–10pm. From either the Suncheon Train Station or the bus terminal, take bus no. 1 (which runs every 30–35 min.). The ride takes 40 min.

Songgwangsa (Songgwang Temple) ★★★ TEMPLE Also located on the west side of Jogyesan, Songgwangsa is one of the Sambosachal (three temple treasures of Buddhism) in South Korea. Songgwangsa became the Seungbo (monk) temple, since so many high monks were produced here. In 1969, the temple was reorganized as a monastic center for Mahayana Buddhism with the establishment of an international meditation center so that non-Korean monks could also study and train here. One of the most impressive treasures here is the Bisari Gusi, a rice storage container carved from a tree so large that it could hold enough rice for 4,000 monks. They have regular prayer services daily at 6:30pm (5pm in the winter), at lunch, and at dawn. About an hour’s walk from the temple is a tiny hermitage called Cheongja-am. The best part of its site is the two 700-year-old juniper trees.

12 Sinpyeong-li, Songwang-myeon, Suncheon-si. 061/755-0108 (Korean). www.songgwangsa.org. Admission ₩3,000 adults, ₩2,500 youth, free for children 6 and under and those over 65. Mar–Oct daily 7am–7pm; Nov–Feb daily 7am–6pm. From the Suncheon Train Station take jwaseok (express) bus no. 111 (the ride takes 1 1/2 hr.).

Suncheon Drama Film Set ★★ ENTERTAINMENT COMPLEX Although this is an artificial film set (the largest in South Korea), the three villages in this open seteuh-jang provide a trip to South Korea’s not-so-distant past. One set is a re-creation of the streets of Suncheon from the 1950s. The ’60s and ’70s sets are a replica of Seoul’s daldognae (“moon neighborhood”), poor areas found in the less desirable uphill areas of the city. There’s a total of about 200 houses in all, making it the largest film set in the country. If you’re a fan of Korean dramas, you may recognize locations from shows like East of Eden and Love and Ambition.

22, Jorye-dong, Suncheon-si. 061/749-4003 (Korean). http://scdrama.sc.go.kr. Admission ₩3,000 adults, ₩2,000 teens, ₩1,000 children. Daily 9am–6pm. From the Suncheon bus terminal take bus no. 77, 99, or 777.

Suncheon-man (Suncheon Bay) Ecological Park PARK A wide estuary and tidal flatland, Suncheon Bay became an established natural eco-park in 2004, but has been overdeveloped in the past couple of years. Several endangered birds stop here along their migratory routes, when the place isn’t overrun by noisy families fishing for crabs. The best time to see our feathered friends is in the quiet winter months, but dress warmly since the ocean breezes can be quite chilly. You can take a boat around the area for ₩6,000 adults, ₩3,000 for kids. There is a separate admission for the Suncheon Bay Eco-Museum which has displays largely dedicated to the endangered hooded crane.

53-1 Jangcheon-dong, Jangmyun-lo, 92 Suncheon-si. 061/749-3006. www.suncheonbay.go.kr. Admission ₩2,000 adults, ₩1,500 teens, ₩1,000 children. Daily 9am–sunset. Parking ₩2,000. From the Suncheon train or bus stations, take bus no. 66 or 67, which run every 20 min. and take 30 min.

Shopping

Being a midsize South Korean city, Suncheon has no shortage of shopping available. Your best bet is to head over to Jung-ang-dong, to Hwanggumno Fashion Street★★ near the medical rotary, where you’ll find dozens of boutique stores lining the streets, as young people windowshop every night of the week. There is also an underground shopping center and several open-air markets, including the Jung-ang Shijang and the Bukbu Shijang in Maegok-dong. There are also the usual huge departments stores and discount marts, including Home Plus (in Jorye-dong; take bus no. 50, 55, 56, 58, or 59), E-Mart (in Doekam-dong, about 10 min. from the train station), and Homever (which is located about a block from the E-Mart). For higher-end fashions, try New Core Outlet in Jorye-dong (take city bus no. 50, 55, 58, or 59). There is also a Toy Department Store (Jangnan-ganm Baekhwajeom) in Jorae-dong.

Yeosu, though smaller, has some shopping options as well. In Jung-ang-dong, there is a shopping area akin to Seoul’s Myeongdong, mostly for fashion and jewelry. There is an E-Mart right across from the bus terminal, open until midnight. For more upscale shopping, try either the JU Department Store in Munsu-dong or the Lotte Marts in either Guk-dong or Seowon-dong.

Where to Stay

There are plenty of low-budget options in Suncheon, including hostels, love motels, yeogwan, and minbak. The largest groups of inexpensive love motels (about ₩35,000 for a standard room) are near the train station, in Yeonhyang-do, and in the Geumdang area. Tourist-class hotels can be found in the old downtown area of Jangcheon-dong. And, of course, there are the really cheap 24-hour saunas, called jjimjilbahng, where you can get a bath and sleep in group quarters for ₩10,000.

City Tourist Hotel, 22-24 Namnae-dong ( 061/753-4000; fax 061/753-3049), with rack rates starting at ₩65,000, has a bar, cafe, bakery, and a couple of restaurants, and it offers free shuttle service to and from the airport. Conveniently located and more upscale is the Suncheon Royal Hotel, 35-8 Jangcheon-dong ( 061/741-7000; fax 061/741-7810), with rates starting at ₩90,000 for a standard room. Located just a couple of blocks from the bus station, they also offer free airport shuttle service.

If you’re looking for other budget accommodations, in Yeosu there is a small cluster of love motels on the main street near the Expo center and the docks.

For more midrange accommodations near Odong-do, try the tourist-class Yeosu Chambord, 1054-1 Gonghwa-dong ( 061/662-6111; fax 061/662-1929), with rates starting at ₩870,000. Probably the best hotel in Yeosu is the Yeosu Beach Tourist Hotel, 343 Chungmu-dong ( 061/663-2011; fax 061/664-2114), within walking distance of the train station. Rack rates start at ₩120,000.

Where to Eat

Being a port town, it goes to figure that Yeosu is well known for its hwae. There is even a Hwae Town, where dozens of seafood restaurants line the streets, some of them opening as early as 5am.

Other than hwae, there are a plethora of seafood specialties in the region. You can indulge in everything from oysters to spicy eel and a variety of grilled fish. A concentration of good restaurants can be found in the Jung-ang-no area. For spicy octopus, try Myeongshin Nakji, 441 Gyeo-dong, Yeosu-si ( 061/662-7056), which has spicy sautéed octopus for ₩8,000 or (for the adventurous eater), live octopus for ₩15,000, from 10am to 10pm daily. For overall fresh seafood, there are Baekcheon Shikdang ( 061/662-3717), Ihak Shikdang ( 061/662-1661), and Geumcheon Shikdang ( 061/662-4883).

Suncheon is also well known for its seafood. There are good Korean restaurants concentrated in the Jung-ang-dong (the “old” downtown) area and some traditional restaurants in between American-style fast-food joints in Yeonhyang-dong (the “new” downtown) area. For just plain good Korean food, try Seonamsa Saejogye Sikdang ( 061/751-9121). Seomjingang Garden ( 061/782-3712) serves delicious local seafood.

If you happen to be in the area in mid- to late October, don’t miss the Namdo Food Festival ( 061/749-4456; www.namdofood.or.kr, Korean only), held at the Naganeupseong Folk Village, featuring regional foods from 22 cities across the area.

Entertainment & Nightlife

In Yeosu, there are a couple of bars in Yeoseo-dong (not too far from the bus terminal). One that is popular with expats is the cafe/restaurant/bar Yellow Monkey, 229-6 Yeoseo-dong ( 061/653-6633). Another bar popular with expats is the franchise beer joint Wa Bar ( 061/654-2229), just a block away with another location in Hak-dong ( 061/682-0281). There are a number of bars, hofs (German-style beer bars), and noraebang in the area, as well.

The popular foreigner bar in Yeosu is in Hakdong—the Lost Shepard Girl Freehouse ★★ ( 010/8502-0288), where you can play darts, pool, or foozball and get Guiness on tap. Located on the north side of Turtle Park, they’re open Wednesday through Saturday, until 3am on Fri/Sat.

In Suncheon, there are a couple of places popular with English speakers, including Elvis, 1593-4 Jorye-dong (on the second floor), and Julianna’s, a Western restaurant/bar (where you can get burgers and chicken wings) in Yeonhyang-dong.

The Rest of Jeollanam-do

Jeollanam-do (South Jeolla Province) is in the southwestern part of the Korean Peninsula. Its name is often abbreviated Jeonnam. Other than the cities highlighted above, the region has some wonderful places to visit. The province is well known for its traditional culture, including the art of pansori, which originated here.

With its interesting coastline, nearly 2,000 islands, and mountainous national parks, there are small pockets of scenery to be discovered all along Jeollanam-do’s shoreline. Inland, there are historic ceramic kilns, ancient mountain temples, and hidden valleys to be found. Of course, the region is also well known for its fresh seafood and other dishes. So be sure to savor the flavors of each area as you visit.

Essentials

Getting There & Around The province has “international” airports at Gwangju () and Muan (MWX, 061/455-2114; www.airport.co.kr/doc/muan_eng) and domestic airport in Yeosu (see above). Muan Airport is serviced by Korean Airlines (tel] 061/985-2000), Asiana Airlines (tel] 061/453-8811), and a couple of other airlines. There is an Avis Rent-a-car (tel] 061/285-2769) desk at the airport.

The KTX high-speed rail offers services to Jangwong, Songjeongni, Naju, Mokpo, and Gwangju. The Korean National Railroad (www.korail.com) has a number of lines that run through the province and end at Mokpo, Yeosu, or Suncheon.

Buses connect Jeollanam-do to all parts of the country. Major cities are accessible from Seoul and from each other’s local bus terminals. Buses bound for tourist destinations are best reached from local bus terminals in the nearest city or town.

Visitor Information The Jeollanam-do Tourist Information Center is at 061/286-4052, with the official provincial site at http://english.jeonnam.go.kr.

Mokpo

Mokpo is Jeonnam’s major port city and was first opened for trade in 1897. A rail line from Seoul connected it to the capital region in 1913, after which it became a vitally important harbor, especially during the time when Japan colonized Korea. Vestiges of Japanese influence can be seen all over town, even with the overwhelming presence of celebrated Naval Admiral Yi everywhere as well.

Mokpo used to be one of the largest cities in the country before the 1970s. Since then, it has seen many of its population migrate to more industrial cities. That doesn’t mean it’s a quiet town, however. The city has plenty of residents and has taken great pains in the past few years to attract more visitors. The high-speed KTX train from Seoul has contributed to the tourist boom to the city.

Buses from Seoul’s Express Bus Terminal come to Mokpo every 40 min. from 5:30am to midnight taking about 4 hours.

Between the train station and the ferry terminal is the old town, which is always bustling with activity. The Mokpo Tourist Information Center ( 061/244-0939), 10 Hang-dong, Mokpo-si, is located at the Yeogek Terminal. It’s open daily 9am to 6pm. There is also another tourist info center at Yeongsan Lake ( 061/270-8279), 300 Jukgyo-dong, Mokpo-si.

Exploring Mokpo

Conveniently, many of the city’s top tourist sites are in the Gatbawi Culture District, which is home to the Namnong Memorial Hall, National Maritime Museum, the Mokpo Natural History Museum, the Hall of Folk Culture, and the Culture and Art Center. Plan to spend about 3 hours exploring this area.

From the Mokpo Bus Terminal, take bus no. 6 or 14 and get off at Yonhae-dong Geumho Apts.; from there, transfer to bus no. 7 and get off at the Gatbawi Cultural Center. From the Mokpo Train Station, take bus no. 1 and get off at the Mokpo MBC Studio; from there, transfer to bus no. 7 and get off at the Gatbawi Cultural Center. It’s a 15- to 20-min. ride from the bus terminal by taxi or car.

Culture & Art Hall PERFORMING ARTS VENUE Built in 1997, this four-story center stands overlooking the ocean. It has six exhibition halls and a theater that seats almost 700 people. They don’t have any permanent displays here, but have revolving exhibits and occasional folk and international performances. The building is located in front of the Hall of Folk Culture, which shows traditional arts and culture.

12-1 Yongdang-dong Mokpo-si. 061/274-3655. Entrance fees and hours vary. From the Express Bus Terminal, walk toward the Mokpo Science College and go left; turn left at Jeil Middle School and the museum will be on the left-hand side of the street (next to the tourist information booth).

Mokpo Natural History Museum ★★ MUSEUM This two-story building has the usual suspects you would expect in a natural history museum. There are dinosaur bones, exhibits of mammals and birds found on the peninsula, over 900,000 species of insects, various plant specimens, whale skeletons, and a small pool where visitors can observe and even touch live crawfish, snails, minnows, and other creatures from South Korea’s freshwater streams.

92-8 Yonghae-dong, Mokpo-si. 061/274-3655. Admission ₩3,000 adults, ₩2,000 teens, ₩1,000 children 7–12, ₩500 children 5–6, free for seniors 65 and over and children 4 and under. Tues–Fri 9am–6pm; Sat–Sun and holidays 9am–7pm (until 6pm Nov–Feb); ticket sales end 1 hr. before closing. Closed Jan 1.

Namnong Memorial Hall ★ MUSEUM This private museum was created as a memorial to Namnong Heo-Geon, who was a master of the Korean version of Namjonghwa (Chinese painting of the Southern School). The collection includes masterpieces of five generations of their family as well as about 400 works from other great painters of the Joseon period.

91 Yonghae-dong Mokpo-si. 061/276-0313. http://namnongmuseum.com/english.htm. Admission ₩1,000 adults, ₩500 youth, free for children 6 and under. Mar–Oct daily 9am–6pm; Nov–Dec daily 9am–5pm.

National Maritime Museum MUSEUM Dedicated to preserving and presenting Korea’s rich maritime history, the first exhibit hall displays over 3,000 excavated relics from the “Underwater Cultural Heritage of Wando” and a replica wooden ship from the Goryeo Dynasty. The second hall is the “Underwater Cultural Heritage from Shinan” exhibit and includes over 22,000 items from Chinese ships of the 14th century. The third hall shows the “Life of a Korean Fishing Village,” with displays of traditional and modern fishing methods. The last hall shows models of “Korean Traditional Boats,” although modern ships, like oil tankers, are also included here.

8 Yonghae-dong, Mokpo-si. 061/270-2000. www.seamuse.go.kr. Admission ₩600 adults, ₩300 youth, free for children 6 and under. Tues–Fri 9am–6pm; Sat–Sun and holidays 9am–7pm (until 6pm Nov–Feb).

Yudalsan (Mt. Yudal) ★ PARK From the park atop its peak you can get a nice view of downtown Mokpo and the harbor, as well as the many small islands that dot the archipelago of Dadohae Maritime National Park. There are five pavilions, a memorial tower, a statue of Admiral Yi, and a monument to the royal dead on its slopes.

Under Ideungbawi, there is also an outdoor sculpture park with more than 100 sculptures by the Korean Sculpture Association. On the right side of the parking lot is Dalseong Park, which includes an orchid garden. Dalseongsa is located in Jukgyo-dong on the southeastern section of the mountain. A newer temple, it was built by Dae Heungsa in 1915.

The best time of year to visit is from late March to early April, when the forsythias are in bloom, painting the entire hillside with their yellow flowers.

27-1 Jukgyo-dong, Mokpo-si. 061/272-2171 (Korean only). Free admission. From the Mokpo Train Station, it’s a 20-min. walk. Walk past the Kookmin Bank, and past the Cheukhudong Church up Mt. Yudal. From Mokpo Bus Terminal, take bus no. 1, 1-1, 1-2, 2, 13, 17, or 20. By car, exit the Mokpo tollgate and take the road that leads to Mokpo Port, following the signs to Yudalsan.

Shopping

Although you won’t be packing a live fish in your luggage, it’s worth taking a look at the Mokpo Seafood Market. Stands that sell the region’s popular delicacy, fermented skate, are everywhere, but you can also find dried fish, the catch of the day, and a lot of other wiggly, shiny, wonderful things from the sea. It’s open daily from 7am to 8pm.

About a 5-minute walk from Mokpo Station is Carless Street, where the alleyways are closed to vehicular traffic, and you can view your share of boutique shops and open stalls, selling everything from clothing to manufactured goods from the region.

For large-scale discount and department stores, Mokpo has more offerings than most other cities in Jeollanam-do. The most popular is the E-Mart in Okam-dong, open daily from 10am to 11pm. Nearby are Homeplus, Lotte ( 061/280-2500) and Hyundai department stores, as well. You can get there by taking bus no. 10, 13, 20, 105, 109, 112, 119, or 300. There is also the Formo (short for “For Mokpo”) shopping center, a megaplex with stores, amusement centers, and a large movie theater.

Where to Stay

There is no shortage of cheap places to sleep in Mokpo, and most of the inexpensive motels are located between the train station and the ferry terminal. There is also a grouping of yeogwan and love motels near the bus terminal.

Your best bet, just outside of the city proper, is the Hyundai Hotel Mokpo ★★ (http://hotel.hshi.co.kr/english/main.asp; 061/469-5050; 1237-6 Sampo-li, Samho-eup, Yeongam-gun), but you’ll pay for the convenience of staying in one of the few places with English-speaking staff. Standard rooms start at ₩330,000, with free Wi-Fi and VAT included.

In Mokpo, the dated, but comfortable Shinan Beach Hotel (http://shinanbeachhotel.com; 061/243-3399; 440-4 Jukgyo-dong, Mokpo-si) looks down over Yudal Beach. It has both beds and ondol rooms starting at ₩99,500. It’s ₩20,000 more for an ocean view. Suites start at ₩270,000. Another option is the Shangria Beach Hotel, 1144-7 Sangdong, Mokpo-si ( 061/285-0100; fax 061/285-0101). An economical place is the Baekje Tourist Hotel, 10-13, Sangnak-dong 1-ga ( 061/242-4411). Although its facilities are a bit dated, the staff is accommodating and the rooms are good for the price.

Where to Eat

Being a seaside city, Mokpo is well known for its seafood. There is no shortage of hwae joints in town. One of the specialties of the region is sebal nakji (baby octopus), which is sometimes served raw or cooked in a gochujang sauce. Another specialty is galchi jolim (stewed hairtail fish).

The best bargain for hwae in the city is at the Bukhang Hwae Center, a live fish market that attracts hungry diners, who haggle for the best deals on their dinner. Hwae stands and restaurants around here have the lowest prices in town.

For restaurants and upscale cafes, head over to Carless Street, about a 5-minute walk from Mokpo Station. Here you can get a taste of an unusual local coffee (you’ll wonder why it’s so rich until you find out that they’ve put a raw egg yolk in it) or just grab an inexpensive bowl of noodles.

If you’re tired of Korean food, head on over to the Gatbawi area in Hadang, where you’ll find a handful of bistros serving Western food.

Entertainment & Nightlife

Being a small city, Mokpo doesn’t have a really hopping nightlife. There are the usual cocktail bars and clubs where you can get overpriced drinks and have to pay a premium for the anju (drinking snacks). The hofs are your best bet for inexpensive drinks.

One of the main attractions of Mokpo when the sun goes down is Luminarie, “The Avenue of Light.” Located not far from the shops and restaurants of Carless Street, the street of brightly lit arches starts from in front of the Mokpo Cinema down about 500m (1,640 ft.). There are some late-night cafe and bar options on Carless Street as well. Not to be overshadowed, Yudalsan is also brightly lit at night, almost like an amusement park.

Muan

Muan is the name of the county (gun) and town (eup) in Jeollanam-do. Best known for its White Lotus Festival ★★★ ( 061/450-5473) in late July/early August, the Muan Hoesan Baekryeonji (Muan White Lotus Habitat) ★★ ( 061/285-1323) is considered the largest one for the rare flower in all of Asia. Entrance to the gardens is ₩3,000 for adults, ₩2,000 for children.

The Muan Airport (MWX, 061/455-2114; www.airport.co.kr/doc/muan_eng) is serviced by Korean Airlines (tel] 061/985-2000), Asiana Airlines (tel] 061/453-8811), and a couple of other airlines. There are a few international flights to and from China and Japan. Avis ( 061/285-2769) provides car-rental service. There are four limousine buses daily to and from Gwangju and Mokpo airports, costing about ₩5,000 for a 60-minute ride.

To get to Muan by train, you can catch a train bound for Mokpo from Seoul Station and get off at Illo Station. From there, take local bus no. 800 to Muan. To get to Muan via bus, take a bus from Seoul’s Express Bus Terminal to Muan. There are two buses a day, 8:30am and 4:20pm, and it’s about a 4-hour ride.

You can try one of the specialties of the region, pork cooked over rice straw at Dooam Shikdang ( 061/452-3775), which is served with Muan’s famous onion kimchi. For another specialty of the region, stop by Haneul Baekryeon Brau ( 061/285-8503) for their homemade lotus beer. They also have other lotus-inspired dishes, like rice steamed in lotus leaves and donkatsu made with powdered lotus root.

Jirisan National Park

Jirisan National Park

South Korea’s first national park, Jirisan (tourist info 061/780-2224) was established in 1967. Its highest peak, Cheonwangbong, is 1,915m (6,283 ft.) high, but several other peaks climb over 1,000m (3,281 ft.). Home to numerous historical sites and temples, the mountain range is surrounded by five cities/counties—Namwon, Gurye, Hadong, Sancheong, and Hamyang (the latter three are in Gyeongsang-do).

Climbing Jirisan for more than a day without a guide is not recommended, since the national park does not have many amenities and there are many precipitous cliffs. There are, however, less difficult trails for nonprofessional climbers.

The easiest trail is the Nogodan course, which starts from the Seongsamjae rest area. The full course takes about 3 hours.You can make a camping reservation 2 to 15 days in advance starting at 10am on their site at http://english.knps.or.kr. Access to the summit is open only four times a day (10:30am, 1pm, 2:30pm, and 4pm). Take a bus from the Gurye Bus Terminal to Seongsamjae. Buses take only 30 minutes but leave every 2 hours, so plan accordingly.

The most scenic course also starts at the Seongsamjae rest area, but takes you up to Hwaeomsa. You can also take a 3-hour hike up a side road from Nogodan ridge. If you prefer a shorter walk, there is a promenade near the entrance to the path to Nogodan from the temple Hwaeomsa. The promenade takes about an hour round-trip. Additional information about Hwaeomsa is in the “Temples in Jirisan” section, below.

The third, longer trail is best experienced when the leaves show off their fall (autumn) colors. The trail starts at Jikjeon Village and goes to Piagol, where a Maple Tree Autumn Foliage Festival is held every year in late October or early November. You’ll pass the largest temple in Jirisan, Yeongoksa, at the entrance to Piagol Valley. The full course to the top takes 7 hours round-trip, but you can stop midway and return if you don’t have that much time. Take a bus to Piagol from Gurye to the last stop. The buses from Gurye Terminal to Piagol Valley run nine times a day at 2-hour intervals and take about 40 min.

Admission to Jirisan is free, but admission to temples varies. A bit more information about Jirisan is in the Hadong section of the Gyeongsang-do chapter.

Jirisan’s 10 Scenic Beauties

Koreans love to make lists of nature and Jirisan is no exception. This is a list put together by the Jirisan Alpine Club and published on their mountaineering maps in 1972.

1. Cheonwang Sunrise—Some say that a person lucky enough to catch the sunrise on Cheonwang peak must have accumulated enough good deeds for three generations. I say you just have to wake up really early.

2. Nogo-unhae (The Sea of Clouds from Nogodan)—Considered an “immortal” place, the sea of clouds over the valley from the Nogodan peak is another of Jirisan’s beauties.

3. Banyabong Nakjo—Banya peak is supposed to look like a pair of women’s breasts. One of the beauties of Jirisan is to see the nakjo (the rays of the setting sun) reflected here.

4. Sunset from Banyabong—Banyabong, the second-highest peak of Jirisan, has beautiful sunsets, especially in the summer.

5. Piagol Samhong (Autumn Foliage at Piagol)—“Samhong” means the three reds, which can be seen in the color of the changing leaves. Joshik, a Confucian scholar during the Joseon Dynasty, said, “People who do not see the red-tinted leaves in Piagol dare not say they know red-tinted leaves.”

6. Byeokso Myeongwol (The Bright Moon from Byeoksoryeong)—Byeoksoryeong, which stands in the middle of Jirisan, is known for its icy blue moon that rises above the peak when the moon is full.

7. Buli-hyeon-pok (Bulil Falls)—Just southeast of Ssanggye Temple, this waterfall makes a wonderful sound that resonates throughout the valley.

8. Seseok Royal Azaleas—“Seseok” refers to the cold water that flows through the pebbles here. In the springtime (from early May to late June) the plateau is blanketed by the colorful blooms of the azaleas.

9. Seomjincheongryu (The Clean Water of Seomjin)—The Seomjin River that starts in the mountains is known for its beautiful clean waters, compared to blue silk that flows on the white silk of the sand on the riverbed.

10. Chilseon-gyegok (Seven Gods Valley)—The last wild forest left in Jirisan, the Chilseon Valley is supposed to hold enchanted purity and is a beautiful sight. According to legend, seven gods are said to live in the valley, hence the name.

Temples in Jirisan

The following are temples on the Jeollanam-do side of Jirisan (except Silsangsa, which is detailed in the Namwon section earlier in this chapter). The temples on the Gyeongsang province are detailed in chapter 8.

Hwaeomsa ★★★ TEMPLE One of South Korea’s top 10 temples, Hwaeomsa (pronounced “Hwa-umsa”) sits on the southwestern part of Jirisan in the middle of Nogodan peak. Built during the Shilla Dynasty, the original structure was burned down during the Imjin Waeran in 1592. The temple was rebuilt during the Joseon Dynasty. In front of the main Buddha hall are a stone lantern and lion pagoda, both of which date back to a.d. 670.

12 Hwangjeon-li, Masan-myeon, Gurye-gun. 061/782-7600 (Korean). www.hwaeomsa.org (Korean only). Admission ₩3,500 adults, ₩1,800 teens, ₩1,300 children, free for seniors 65 and over and children 6 and under. Daily 7am–7:30pm. From Gwangju Bus Station, take local bus no. 225 (it’s an hour ride and the bus runs every 40 min.). From the Gurye Bus Terminal, take a bus to Hwaeomsa Temple (the buses run every 20 min. from 8am-8:10pm). Then walk 15 min. to the temple.

Saseong-am (“Four Sages” Hermitage) ★★ TEMPLE If you look at the top of Osansan, you’ll see the main hall of this small hermitage perched on precarious columns, hugging the side of the mountain. It’s worth a trip up the steep incline just for the dramatic scenery (they provide shuttle buses from the bottom). Originally called Osansa, it was founded during the Baekje period by Monk Wonhyo (the same guy who founded Hwaeomsa and Yeongoksa). The hermitage fell into ruin during the Joseon Dynasty, but was renovated in the 1980s. A steep, rocky stairwell leads up to the Sanshin-gak area and the entrance to the Doseon-gul (cave), where Wonhyo supposedly meditated.

186 Jukma-li, Muncheok-myeon, Gurye-gun. 061/781-4544. Located southeast of Gurye, it’s across the Seomjin River from the Nogodan area of Jirisan. Buses from Gurye to Saseong-am run only 3 times a day 6:40am–6:20pm (a 20-min. ride). A better option is to take a taxi from Gurye-gu Station, which takes about 15 min. and costs around ₩12,000.

Yeongoksa ★ TEMPLE The largest temple in the national park, Yeongoksa lies in the Piagol valley of Jirisan. Like its neighbor Hwaeomsa, the temple has a rich history and is surrounded by picturesque scenery. The first temple built in Jirisan, it was founded by Yeongijosa in 543. Like most temples, it was destroyed during the Imjin Waeran, but was rebuilt in 1627. Unfortunately, it didn’t escape the Korean War unscathed, either, so it was rebuilt in 1981.

Naedong-li, Toji-myeon, Gurye-gun. 061/782-7412 (Korean). Admission ₩1,600 adults, ₩700 teens, ₩400 children, free for children 6 and under. Mar–Oct daily 6am–8pm; Nov–Feb daily 6am–7pm. Local buses from Gurye Bus Terminal run about every hour and take an hour. Costing ₩2,300, they run daily 6:40am–7:40pm. Buses from Suncheon run twice a day and take 90 min.

Exploring Jeollanam-do

Jeollanam-do has beautiful scenery and some of the most interesting temples in the country. Many of them are outside the major cities, but they’re worth a side trip.

Bulgapsa (Bulgap Temple) TEMPLE South of the small town of Yeonggwang is a small temple at the base of Bulgapsan and said to be Korea’s oldest temple. Originally built in a.d. 384, it has been rebuilt several times since. The main hall was built sometime in the 1700s and has been renovated since. The temple is known for its beautiful surroundings.

8 Moak-li, Bulgap-myeon, Yeonggwang-gun. 061/352-8097 (Korean). www.bulgapsa.org. Admission ₩2,500 adults, ₩1,500 teens, ₩1,000 children, free for children 4 and under. Daily 8am–6pm. From Gwangju city’s Gwangcheon terminal, take bus no. 218 or 318 (a 1 1/2-hr. ride).

Gangjin Celadon Museum MUSEUM Celadon, Korea’s ethereal green porcelain, has been produced in the Gangjin region for centuries and this museum is the only one dedicated to the Goryeo celadon, made here from the 9th to the 14th century. There are 188 celadon kilns in the area (about half the celadon kilns for the entire country). The museum has a couple of skillfully created pieces. Unfortunately, the signage is only in Korean upstairs, with just a few English labels downstairs. More fun is the hands-on experiential zone, where you can make mosaics from broken celadon, spin a masterpiece on a potter’s wheel, or have your hand- and footprints baked in celadon.

127 Sadang-li, Daegu-myeon, Gangjin-gun. 061/430-3718 (Korean). Admission ₩2,000 adults, ₩1,500 teens, ₩1,000 children. Daily 8am–6pm. From the Gangjin Gunnae Terminal, take a local bus headed for Malyang and get off at the museum. The bus runs every 30 min. 6am–8:40pm, and the ride lasts about 30 min. There are also buses to Gangjin from Seoul, Gunsan, Gwangju, and Mokpo.

Seomjingang Train Village ★★ HIKING TRAIL This is a re-created train station made from refurbished wood. There’s also a renovated an old train to take you on a scenic, 25-minute ride (50 min. round-trip) along the Seomjin River to Gajeong Station, where you can go for a lovely hike in the woods and take the train back. For serious train enthusiasts, this place even offers an overnight in a converted train “pension” ★★★ ( 061/362-5600; www.gspension.co.kr). Rooms range from ₩70,000 to ₩180,000, depending on the size. Reservations are recommended for both the train ride and the pension stay.

770-5, Ojili, Ogok-myeon, Gokseong-gun. 061/360-8309. www.gstrain.co.kr. Rides are ₩5,000–₩6,000 adults, ₩4,500–₩5,500 children round-trip (₩500 less one-way). Daily 9am–6pm, but trains run 9:30am, 11:30am, 1:30pm, 2:30pm, and 5:30pm. It’s best to take a taxi from the Gokseong bus or terminal.

Unjusa (Unju Temple) ★★★ TEMPLE Located in Hwasun County, south of Gwangju, no one knows the actual founder of the temple, but it is believed to have been constructed during the Shilla Dynasty. Although the temple structure itself is not very impressive, the site is renowned for its pagodas and unusual Buddha statues. Of the original 1,000 pagodas and 1,000 Buddhas, only 18 pagodas and 70 statues remain. The most interesting stone statues are located to the left of the road leading up to the temple, especially the two lying figures, the only ones in the country.

Yonggang-li/Daecho-li, Doam-myeon, Hwasun-gun. 061/374-0660 (Korean). www.unjusa.org (Korean only). Admission ₩2,500 adults, ₩1,500 teens, ₩1,000 children, free for children 4 and under. Daily 8am–6pm. From Gwangju city’s Gwangcheon terminal, take bus no. 218 or 318 (a 1 1/2-hr. ride).

Dadohae Maritime National Park

Dadohae-haesang (http://english.knps.or.kr) includes Shinan-gun, Jindo-gun, and Goheung-gun of Yeosu-si and Wan-do-gun in Jeollanam-do. When it was designated a national park in 1981, it became the largest in the country. The entire park includes 1,596 islands and small islets (many uninhabited) with gorgeous views and varying landscapes. The eight sections of the park include the southern shore of Dolsan-do and a group of small islands to the south; the southern tip of the Goseun Peninsula and Naro-do; Geomun-do, Baek-do, and their associated islands south of the Goheung Peninsula; the southern tip of Wan-do, Shinji-do, and the islands to the south; the southern part of Jin-do and islands to its south; parts of Docho-do, Bigeum-do, and Eui-do; Heuksan-do and Hong-do and islands farther west; and the remote Manjae-do.

The most popular site in the park is the temple Hyangilam, which sits majestically upon a cliff on the southern tip of Dolsan-do. Since the maritime park consists of islands near and far, the best way to see parts of it is by ferry. Passenger boats are available to various islands from harbors on Mokpo, Yeosu, and Wan-do. Since some of the islands are remote, plan ahead and check the weather beforehand.

Islands

Bigeum-do ★★ The quiet beauty of this island is still preserved since it’s still largely undiscovered by tourists. The island is the leading producer of naturally sun-dried salt, and the salt fields are indeed a sight to behold. The island’s two beaches, Hanuneom and Wonpyeong, have facilities that are open mid-July to mid-August.

Bigeum-myeon, Shinan-gun. 061/243-2171 (Korean). From Mokpo Ferry Terminal 1, take the fast-sailing liner bound for Bigeum-do at 7:50am (the ride lasts about 50 min.). Alternatively, from Mokpo Ferry Terminal 2, take one of the ferries bound for Gasan or Sudae. They run at 7am, 1pm, and 3pm and the ride lasts 2 hr. to 2 hr. 20 min.

Bogil-do About an hour south of Wan-do by boat lies this quiet little island, which was made popular by artist Yun Seondo, who lived here for 10 years. While the 17th-century scholar Song Siyeol was on his way to exile in Jeju-do, he was forced to dock on the island due to bad weather. He carved some of his poetry on a rock, which remains today. Although the island has some beautiful sandy beaches, it’s best known for its pebble beach, Yesong-li, and the sound the rounded stones make as the waves lap the shore. The best time to visit is May to June or August to September. Taxis and various minbak are available on the island.

Bogil-myeon, Wan-do-gun. 061/553-5177 (Korean). Ferries from Haenam take 90 min. and run about 12 times in the summer, 6 times in the fall. Ferries are also available from Wan-do, Hwaheungpo, and Nohwa-do.

Hong-do ★★★ The name Hong-do means “red island,” but no one knows for sure if the name came from the island’s red soil or because it seems to turn red when the sun sets over the ocean. Whatever the case, the island is an ecological wonder, because of its soil and its unusual plants. Because of its protected status, visitors are allowed to go only to villages and designated tourist areas. Hong-do is composed of about 20 small islets, but the main island (which is said to be shaped like an ant) has two villages, one in the pinched waist center and one on the northern section. The middle village is where the wharf is and several minbak are clustered around it. A sightseeing ferry around the island takes about 2 1/2 hours. If you have the time, visit nearby Heuksan-do, which is about 30 minutes away by boat. Some parts of the island (like the lighthouse) are accessible only by boat. You can rent a private boat for about ₩60,000 round-trip. Ask at the ferry information booth on the wharf.

Jeollanam-do. 061/246-2244 (Korean). Admission ₩2,600 adults, ₩1,100 teens, ₩550 children ages 8 to 12. From Mokpo Express Ferry Terminal ( 061/240-6060), take the ferry to Hong-do. Sightseeing ferries run about every 2 hr. 7am–5pm (depending on the weather). Starting at ₩15,000, the ferry lasts 2 1/2 hr.

Jeung-do ★★★ Since 2008, the Tapyeong Salt Farm and its associated Salt Museum have been an ecological tourist location. Residents of Jeung-do have been producing salt since the 1950s (about 15,000 tons per year), but it hasn’t been open to visitors until recently. Watching the workers harvest the salt from the ocean flats is a sight to see, but visitors can participate in the salt-collecting process, including turning the water wheels and raking the salt. At the end of the experience, they’ll give you a kilogram to take home with you (you can also buy their special local sea salt flavored with dry seaweed). Be sure to book your salt harvesting experience at least 3 days in advance. It costs ₩7,000 for adults, ₩6,000 for those 17 and under.

Tip: Pack a picnic lunch or dinner if you plan to visit on a Sunday, since most of the restaurants on the island will be closed as the Christian residents take the day off.

1648 Daejo-li, Jeungdo-myeon, Shinan-gun. 061/275-0829. www.saltmuseum.org. Thurs–Mon 9am–6pm. Closed Jan 1. Admission ₩2,000 to the museum. To get to Jeong-do, take a bus to Jido from Seoul’s Express Bus Terminal. From the Jido Bus Terminal, take the shuttle bus to Saokdo’s Jisingae Dock (the bus runs frequently, depending on the boat schedule, costs ₩1,500, and takes about 15 min.). The ferry to Jeung-do runs at 7am, 9am, noon, 3pm, and 5pm and takes about 30 min.

Jin-do The third-largest island in South Korea, Jin-do includes an archipelago of about 230 smaller islands. The Jin-do itself is known for two things: Its native dogs, the jindokgae, and what’s called the “Moses Miracle of Jin-do.” Near the end of the second month of the lunar calendar to the middle of the sixth month, a “road” appears in the middle of the ocean when the water recedes for about an hour a day. You should call the Korea Travel Phone ( 1330) to see when peak times are before you visit. There are taxis and buses available on Jin-do.

Jodo-myeon, Jin-do-gun. 061/544-2181 (Korean only). Free admission. From Jindo-eup Bus Terminal, take a bus to Jin-do Island or Hoedong-li.

Wan-do The largest island in Jeollanam-do, Wan-do is also the name of the county that encompasses it. The county includes 203 islands, 143 of which are uninhabited. Wan-do is famous for Cheonghaejin, a military complex created by Jang Bogo, a famous general from the Shilla Kingdom. The island has wonderful hiking trails and the Wan-do Botanical Garden. A bridge connects Wan-do to Sinchi-do.

Wan-do-gun. You can drive to Wan-do from Haenam, or take an intercity bus from Gwangju, Busan, Mokpo, Gangjin, or Yeongam. Express buses are also available from Seoul. You can also take a ferry to and from Jeju-do.

Naejangsan National Park

Declared a national park in 1971, Naejangsan ( 063/538-7875; http://english.knps.or.kr/Knp/Naejangsan/#) is one of the smallest in the country. But that doesn’t mean you should skip it—quite the contrary. Naejang, which means “many secrets,” is beautiful, particularly in the fall, thanks to the 13 varieties of maple that grow here. Its highest peak, Shinseonbong, is relatively low, but still rugged for its height (only 763m/2,503 ft.). The valley and ridge trails aren’t very strenuous, but those up the sides of the hills are very steep. That’s why they’ve built a cable car that goes up to the peak from the entrance to Naejangsa. If you follow the valley to the left from the ticket booth, you’ll see Dodeok Falls. Geumseong Falls is farther along the valley, if you take the path to the left.

If you pass the wooden path lined with white oaks and maples in the southern part of the park, you’ll arrive at the entrance to Baegyangsa ★★★, 26, Yaksu-li, Bukha-myeon, Jangseong-gun. Built in 632 during the Baekje period, its name was changed by Monk Chongtosa, then again during the reign of Joseon King Sonjo. The word baegyang means “white sheep,” based on a legend that one of the temple’s monks, Hwanyangsonsa, was delivering a sermon and a white sheep came down from the mountain to listen. At the end of the ceremony, the sheep appeared again in the monk’s dream and told him that he was turned into a sheep after having committed a crime in heaven. The next day, the sheep was found dead in the temple. Admission is ₩2,500 for adults, ₩1,000 for teens, ₩700 for children, free for those 65 and over and kids 6 and under. The temple is open daily March through October 9am to 6pm (until 5pm Nov–Feb). From the Gwangju Bus Terminal, buses run daily 6am to 7:50pm every hour, and the ride takes about an hour.

The other major temple in the mountains is farther away, but the scenic walk makes it worth the extra effort. When you enter the ticket booth, walk by the marketplace and shops and you’ll come to a small river valley (Naejang-cheon). Walk on this trail for 30 minutes and you will come to a lotus pond with a garden house in the middle, the Uhwajeong. After you pass it, you’ll come to a cable car—walk beyond that, through a canopy of maple trees, and you’ll reach the main entrance to Naejangsa ★★. Originally called Yeonggeunjosa, the temple was built by Monk Yeongeun-josa in 636 during the Baekje period. It was destroyed and rebuilt many times, but it was completely destroyed during the Korean War and rebuilt in its current incarnation in the 1970s. Admission is ₩3,000 for adults, ₩1,200 for teens, ₩700 for children, free for those 65 and over and kids 6 and under. The temple is open daily from sunrise to sunset. From the Jeong-eup Bus Terminal take bus no. 171 to Naejangsan National Park. The bus runs every 20 minutes or so. A taxi from the bus terminal should take about 20 min. Admission to the park is free.

Wolchulsan National Park

Wolchulsan’s granite peaks rise dramatically from the flat fields surrounding it. It has a narrow and deep valley and interesting trails. The highest peak in the area is Cheonghwang-bong, which climbs up 809m (2,654 ft.). To the south lies Muwisa and to the west is the quiet Dogapsa, a temple built by the Shilla monk Doseonguksa that was burned during the Korean War and has yet to be restored. Still, it’s worth a quick visit (Dogap-li, Gunseo-myeon, Yongam-gun; 061/473-5122). The main entrance is the oldest structure still standing in the temple complex (built in 1493). The newer main hall has newly painted pillars and walls. During its repair in 1960, an ink sign was discovered, shedding light on the temple’s history. It read that the temple was built by the great Monk Sinmi in the fourth year of King Seonjong. Monk Sinmi was highly trusted by King Sejo and probably received compensation from him to build the temple. During the height of its glory, 730 monks lived on-site.

About 500m (1,640 ft.) down from the top of Gujeong-bong is the Maae Yeorae Jwasang ★★, a stone Buddha carved in the rock there. Some say that his eyes are looking at the west sea, but to me, they look closed as if he is meditating or sleeping. The Maae Buddha is said to have been created in the year a.d. 9.

Though most people take day trips to the area, there are camping facilities available in the Cheonghwangsa area. There is also a minbak area in the Gyeongpodae district.

Just outside of the national park is Gurim Village ★★★, which has an ancient history (as you can see by the prehistoric relics found here). Popular because of its 4th- and 5th-century kilns, its Yeongnam Pottery Culture Center ★★, 354 Seogurim-li, Gunseo-myeon, Yeongnam-gun ( 061/470-2566) is on the site of the original kilns where they first produced glazed pottery during the Unified Shilla period. Not only do they house artifacts which have been excavated from the area, but they also create replicas of historic works for sale. The center is open daily 9am to 6pm throughout the year; admission is ₩1,600 adults, ₩600 teens, ₩300 children.

Duryunsan Provincial Park

Located on the southernmost point on the Korean Peninsula, Duryunsan with its beautiful scenery is home to many temples and ruins. Its dense forest of subtropical plants leads up to a rocky peak, with views of the surrounding sea and nearby islands.

The most famous temple here is Daedunsa ★★★ ( 061/534-5502; www.daeheungsa.co.kr, Korean only), built during the fifth year of Baekje King Jinheng’s reign by Monk Ado. Situated on the northern slope of Mt. Duryun, the temple is the headquarters of the Jogye Buddhist order. There is a free shuttle that will take you up the first 2km (1 1/4 miles) of the mountain, if you don’t want to make the full hike. The long walk through the forest to the temple entrance is supposed to be part of the meditation process of visiting. You will be rewarded with the view of 1,000 smiling Buddha statues inside the Cheonbuljeon. The temple is open daily from 9am to 6pm, and admission is ₩2,500 for adults, ₩1,500 for teens, ₩1,000 for children, free for kids 6 and under and seniors 65 and up. In a separate area to the right is Pyochungsa, a shrine built in 1788. It is dedicated to the warrior monk generals who fought the invading Japanese army during the Imjin Waeran. There are many trails spidering out from Daedunsa, but the most popular goes up to its associated hermitage Bungmireuk-am, where a majestic stone Buddha has been sculpted from the flat rock face (now housed inside a wooden hall). It’s worth the 45-minute climb up for the wonderful views.

There are seven buses daily from Seoul to Haenam, starting at 7:30am with the last bus at 5:55pm. The 5 1/2-hour ride costs ₩17,800 (₩26,500 for deluxe buses). From the Haenam Intercity Bus Terminal take a bus bound for Daedunsa. Buses run every 30 minutes daily, 6:50am to 7:40pm, taking about 20 min.

The Haenam Cable Car ★★ ( 061/534-8992; 138-6 Gurim-li, Samseon-myeon, Haenam-gun; http://haenamcablecar.com) starts at the village and goes to the tallest peak of Duryunsan. The 10-minute ride, which affords a spectacular view of the surrounding scenery, costs ₩8,000 adults, ₩5,000 children ages 3 to 12. The cable car runs daily 8am to 6pm (until 5pm Dec–Mar).

Where to Stay

Outside the major cities and tourist areas, you can find low-cost sleeping quarters in minbak everywhere. In low season, costs range from ₩30,000 to ₩40,000, but prices can double during popular summer months. Although you can make reservations in advance for some of the upper-end resorts and condos, you’ll sometimes get better rates if you just walk in, especially on weekdays and during the low season.

In the Haenam area, there are plenty of low- to midpriced motels. Some love motels like the Sapphire Motel ( 061/537-4825) and Motel Tiffany ( 061/537-0080) offer Internet access. The Ddang-ggeut Tema Pakeuh ( 061/535-1000), shaped like one of General Yi’s turtle ships, is a midpriced option in the area. Double/single rooms cost ₩48,000 on weekdays.

For a taste of history, stay at the Yuseongwan ★★, 799 Gurim-li, Samsan-myeon, Haenam-gun ( 061/534-2959), which has been a yeogwan since 1914, but is located in a 400-year-old home. Room rates range from ₩35,000 to ₩130,000, depending on size. There are no televisions or refrigerators, but there are shared shower facilities and a generous, home-cooked meal for only ₩7,000 for breakfast (₩10,000 for dinner).

Most first-class hotels can be found in the Jirisan area or near beaches. One nice place is the Jirisan Hanhwa Resort, 32-1 Hwangjun-li, Masan-myeon, Gurye-gun ( 061/782-2171; fax 061/782-3675), with rack rates starting at ₩180,000. A slightly better bargain with nicer rooms is the Jirisan Swiss Tourist Hotel, 427-1 Hwangjeon-li, Masan-myeon, Gurye-gun ( 061/783-0156 or 7; fax 061/782-1571).

Another good option is the Wolchulsan Hot Springs Tourist Hotel, 6-10 Haechang-li, Gunsan-myeon, Yeongam-gun ( 061/473-6311), with rates from ₩96,800 for a standard, ₩193,600 for a suite.

An excellent place to stay in Jeung-do is the El Dorado Resort ★★★, 233-42 Ujeon-li, Jeungdo-myeon, Shinan-gun (www.eldoradoresort.co.kr; 061/260-3300). This upscale set of “villas” is set on a small peninsula, so every one of them has an ocean view. Breakfast and use of their seawater spa and sauna are included in the room rates, which range from ₩250,000 for a double to ₩768,000 for a six-person villa.

Where to Eat

Being on the South Seas with miles of coastline, the Jeollanam-do region is well known for its fresh and varied seafood. Although outsiders make fun of their provincial ways, everyone agrees that this region’s food is the best. The residents are known to be generous people by the sheer number of banchan laid out for the simplest of meals.

In the Jirisan area, try the local blue crab at Gokseong Saesugung Garden, 937 Hahan-li, Jukgok-myeon, Gokseong-gun ( 061/363-4633), on the way to Seomjin-gahng from Namwon.

The chargrilled beef at Gwangyang Hanguk Shikdang is worth a special trip, 206-1 Eupnaeri, Gwangyang-eup, Gwangyang-si ( 061/762-9292), they serve a recipe handed down through three generations.

In Haenam, try Haenam Jeonju Shikdang, 140-5 Gurim-li, Samsan-myeon, Haenam-gun ( 061/532-7696), which serves regional specialties, including sanchae hanjeongshik (mountain vegetable traditional meal), for ₩60,000 for four people, but their sanchae bibimbap for ₩6,000 is a better option if you’re traveling alone. If you’re hankering for haemultahng (spicy seafood hot pot), look no further than Haenam Yonggung Haemultang, 18-4 Pyeongdong-li, Haenam-eup, Haenam-gun ( 061/535-5161), which specializes in the dish.

For wholesome food, try the oxtail soup made by the halmuhni at Naju Nampyeong Sikdang, 13 Geumgye-dong, Naju ( 061/334-4682). This milky white soup is served with only two side dishes, traditional kimchi and ggakdugi (daikon kimchi). Naju Yeongsa Hong-ga, 265-9 Yeongsan-dong, Naju ( 061/334-0585), is well known for their various hong-uh (skate) dishes. Another good restaurant is Yeongsan Hong-uh, 272-2 beonji, Yeongsan-dong, Naju ( 061/334-0305), which offers hong-uh kimchi, hong-uh noodles, and all things skate.