Chapter 9: Busan

South Korea’s second-largest city, Busan is filled with towering apartments, crowded streets, and a modern subway system. It’s the largest port in the country and the third largest in the world. Located in the Nakdong River Valley, Busan has the ocean on one side, mountains on the other, and hot springs scattered throughout. Called South Korea’s summer capital, the thousands of rented umbrellas on Busan’s six beaches make it impossible to even see the sand. So it’s not the place for a peaceful trip in July or August. Off season winters, however, bring quieter shores and a less hurried atmosphere.

Because Busan grew up along its coastline, the city is unusually long and has more than one city center. The area around Busan’s ports bustles with energy as boats arrive daily from all over Asia, and nearby Nampo-dong is home to the massive Jagalchi seafood market. The shores of Haeundae boast some of the country’s finest resort hotels, while the Seomyeon neighborhood is a paradise for shoppers. The old city center, Dongnae, in the north toward the mountains, is a great place to experience hot springs and Korean-style bathhouses.

Choose a fish for your lunch from the bubbling tanks at Jagalchi Market. At night, the cafes along Gwangalli Beach fill with people coming to see the lights of the Gwangan Bridge. When you eat, you’ll get to enjoy the genuine warmth and hospitality of the Busan people.

Busan

Orientation

Arriving & Departing

By Plane

The city of Busan is served by Gimhae International Airport (PUS; 051/974-3114; www.airport.co.kr/doc/gimhae_eng), which is located about 35 minutes outside of the city, across the Nakdong River.

Korean Airlines (www.koreanair.com) and Asiana Airlines (us.flyasiana.com) are the major national airlines that fly in and out of Gimhae. International flights are available via Japan Airlines, China Eastern Airlines, China Northwest Airlines, Air China, Philippine Airlines, SAT Airlines, and Vladivostok Airlines from cities in Cambodia, China, Japan, Russia, Thailand, the Philippines, and Vietnam. A standard cab to the city center costs about ₩30,000 including tolls. Deluxe cabs, which are black, cost more (₩45,000), but the drivers all speak English, accept credit cards, and will give a receipt.

Airport buses ( 051/972-8653) cost ₩1,000 to ₩2,000 and run daily every 10 to 40 minutes, depending on which line you take. There is no direct line on the subway to the airport, but you can take bus no. 307 to and from Deokcheon Station (line 2, exit 6). Limousine buses ( 051/973-9617) start at ₩7,000 and run daily every 30 minutes or so to most parts of the city, including the Lotte Hotel, Haeundae Station, and the Westin Chosun Beach Hotel.

Buses from Incheon Airport can be taken from stop 10C on the first floor about every 2 hours from 8:20am to 10:20pm. The 6-hour journey costs ₩42,400 to ₩46,600.

By Train

You can take the KTX express train from Seoul Station, which takes 2 hours and 50 minutes, or the Saemaul train, which takes 4 hours and 10 minutes. The standard KTX fare is ₩55,500, while the first-class fare is ₩77,700 and the standard Saemaul fare is ₩41,100. The Mugunghwa train takes just under 5 hours and costs ₩27,700. Kids’ fares are half the adult rate. The train station ( 051/440-2497) is located in central Busan. From there, you can hop on the subway, take a bus, or catch a cab to your hotel or any other destination within the city.

To get to the train station from the city center on the subway, take line 1 to stop 13. Follow the signs to exit into the station plaza. The Gyeongbu line travels north to Seoul and the Gyeongjeon line goes west along the southern coast to Mokpo.

By Bus

There are two main bus stations in Busan. The major one is the Busan Bus Complex, which is in the same building as the Busan Dongbu Gyeongnam Intercity Bus Terminal (with buses that travel to the east) at Nopo-dong. From there, you can pick up subway line 1 to get into the city. The other is Seobu Intercity Bus Terminal (which has buses to the west), which is on subway line 2, stop 227 (take exit 1). Buses run daily about every 15 minutes to and from major cities throughout South Korea.

Buses from the Seoul Express Bus Terminal to the Busan Bus Complex start running at 6am and run daily every 20–30 minutes until 1:30am, with ticket prices ranging from ₩22,000 to ₩36,000. Daily buses departing from DongSeoul Bus Terminal to the Busan Bus Complex start running at 6am and run 10 times daily until 11:50pm, costing ₩22,200 to ₩36,100.

By Boat

You can take a boat to Busan Port International Ferry Terminal from cities in South Korea, China, and Japan ( 1544-1114; http://foreign.busanpa.com/Service.do?id=engmain). The terminal is centrally located, so once you disembark, you’ll find it very easy to get to your hotel. You can catch the subway, local buses, or a taxi from the port.

There is also a coastal pier, Yeonan Ferry Terminal (for domestic ferries), and an international pier. Both are located in Juang-dong. Ships from the domestic pier daily arrive from and depart to Jeju-do, Changsungpo, Geoje-do, Okpo, Gohyun, Haegeumgang, Hungmu, Tongyeong, and Yeosu. You can also catch a tour boat to explore Jeju and the many islands of the Hallyeo Maritime National Park. From the international pier, you can also catch ferries to Fukuoka (Hakata), Izuhara, Osaka, Shitakatsu, and Shimonoseki in Japan and Yodai in China. Keep in mind that whether or not the ships actually sail is completely dependent on the weather, so make sure to confirm your reservations in advance with Busan Information for Coastal Tours 16, Jung-ang-dong 5-ga, Jung-gu ( 051/469-0116 or -0117). Japan doesn’t require visas for short (less than 90 days) visits by citizens of the U.S., U.K., Canada, or Australia. China, however, requires visas even for travelers in transit.

The following ferry companies operate from Busan passenger port: Dongyang Express Ferry Co., Jeju ( 051/464-2266); Gukje Dae-ho Development Co., Jeju ( 051/464-6601); Gukje Tong-un Co., Jeju ( 051/464-2228); Semo Co., Changsungpo, Gohyun, Sungpo, Okpo, Chungmu, Yosu, Saryangdo, Samcheonpo, and Namhae ( 051/469-3851); Shimonoseki Ferry Co., Shimonoseki, Japan ( 051/463-3161); Koryo Ferry Co., Fukuoka, Japan ( 051/466-7799); Hanguk Express Ferry Co., Fukuoka, Japan ( 051/465-6114); and Chinsung Co. Ltd., Yunae, China ( 051/441-888).

You can get to the boat terminal by taking the subway to Jungang-dong Station (line 1, exit 12). It’s one stop from the Busan Train Station. Bus nos. 8, 8-1, 11, 70, 88-1, 97, 101, 109, 139, 190, 240, 302, 309, and 507 all go to the port.

Visitor Information

Good tourist information in English is available at the Gimhae Airport. The office on the first floor of the international terminal is open daily from 9am to 5pm ( 051/973-2800). The Busan Tourist Information Center office ( 051/973-4607; http://english.busan.go.kr) on the first floor of the domestic terminal is open daily from 9am to 9pm.

There are also several tourist information booths throughout the city. The easiest to find is the one at Busan Station (subway line 1, 051/441-6565), located next to the ticket counters inside the terminal. Most are open Tuesday to Saturday 9am to 9pm, and Sunday and Monday 9am to 5pm. You’ll also find visitor information on the first floor of the International Ferry Terminal ( 051/465-3471; daily 8am–5pm); on the first floor of Busan City Hall ( 051/888-3527; daily 9am–6pm); and in Haeundae Beach, 629-3 Woo-1(il)-dong, Haeundae-gu ( 051/749-5700; daily 9am–6pm). Tourist information in English is also available by dialing 1330 and the foreigner’s service center at 051/441-9685. The city’s official site is at http://english.busan.go.kr.

City Layout

Busan is located in the Nakdong River Valley, and mountains separate some of the city’s districts. Mt. Geumjeong looms on the western side, with its hiking trails, views, and the temple, Beomeosa. The city’s expansive beaches, the most popular being Haeundae, Gwangalli, and Songjeong, attract visitors year-round, but are positively crawling in the summertime. Its traditional markets and shopping districts are found in Nampo-dong and Seomyeon (the “new downtown”).

BUSAN Neighborhoods in Brief

Songjeong On the far eastern side of the city lies its third-most-popular beach. The northern, rocky part of this shoreline attracts fishermen, but the expansive sandy part draws big beach crowds—though not nearly as big as the crowds that flock to the beaches of Haeundae and Gwangalli. That’s because Songjeong is a bit out of the way. Still, it’s worth a visit, and early risers should try to catch the sunrise from Haedong Yonggungsa, the temple perched on the rocky cliffs above.

Haeundae Home to the most famous and frequented beach in all of South Korea, Haeundae attracts several hundred thousand visitors annually. Major resort hotels are perched above the sand here, and a few offer the rare experience of soaking in an oceanside hot spring. Though it’s a bit far from the shore, this neighborhood offers both budget accommodations and a ton of shopping options.

Gwangalli Near Haeundae, the Gwangalli neighborhood is also a hot beach resort location. Its open-air cafe street draws thousands of visitors with its neon lights and views of the Gwangan Bridge. Popular with the younger crowd, the area has galleries, a cultural center, and plenty of opportunities to shop. The beach’s outdoor stage is also the center of rock concerts and various festivals throughout the year.

Nampo-Dong/Gwangbok-Dong/Jung-Gu The city’s major markets are here, including the Jagalchi Market, the Dried Seafood Market, and the Herb Market, and there are inexpensive yeogwan (inns) within walking distance of them all. The Busan International Film Festival (BIFF) is also held every September in (where else?) BIFF Square. Theater lovers will find small, funky productions being put on here, though sadly most are in Korean.

Yeong-do/Taejongdae The island of Yeong-do separates the two halves of Busan harbor. The center of the island is residential, while its harborfront is rather industrial. But the island’s southernmost tip belongs to Taejongdae, famous for its views of the Korea Strait—on clear days, you can see all the way to Japan.

Songdo The first of Busan’s beaches to be used for recreation, it’s less popular (and less dramatic) than the beaches in Haeundae and Gwangalli, so it’s best for those looking to avoid huge crowds (though good luck doing that anywhere in July–Aug). Songdo is famous for Amnan Park and its raw fish restaurants; this area is ideal to relax in after a long day of sunbathing.

Eulsuk-do/Dadaepo This island in the middle of the Nakdong River channel is the perfect resting place for migratory birds. A sanctuary for these avian visitors is found on the southeastern part of the island. On the western peninsula nearby is Dadaepo beach, the widest in the city. There is also a cultural center, an outdoor concert hall, a drive-in theater, and an inline skating rink.

Seomyeon The busiest area in Busan, the Seomyeon neighborhood is a sort of second downtown thanks to its open markets, underground shopping arcade, and cheap eateries (especially those in Mokja Golmok [Let’s Eat Alley]). It’s popular any night of the week with college students and young professionals. This is a good area to stay in if you’re interested in shopping and eating more than sunbathing.

Dongnae Located north of Seomyeon, the Dongnae district houses one of the oldest known oncheon in the country. This is a great place to experience South Korea’s hot spring and spa culture. The area is also home to Busan (Pusan) National University (PNU). Not surprisingly, the PNU area (Busan Daehak-ap) has the city’s newer bars, cafes, and nightclubs.

Geumjeong Geumjeong is home to one of the most famous Buddhist temples in South Korea, Beomeosa. A hike along the walls of the Geumjeong Fortress or a visit to the 500 wisteria vines is a great way to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city below. Pack a picnic lunch and don your hiking boots to enjoy a bit of nature and the view.

Getting Around

Busan Subway

By Subway Busan’s extensive subway system makes it possible to go just about anywhere within the city. There are three lines and announcements are made in both English and Korean. The trains start running daily at 5:10am and stop at 12:45am. To use the subway, you can buy single tickets at automatic ticket machines. (Tip: Single ticket machines accept only ₩1,000 notes or coins, so be sure to carry small notes. They will, however, give you coin change.) One-way fares are ₩1,200 for travel in one “section” (up to a 10km/6 1/4-mile distance) and ₩1,400 for two sections (distances over 10km/6 1/4 miles). Fares are reduced for teens and kids. Be sure to hold onto your ticket because you’ll need it to exit the subway.

If you plan on taking the subway or bus extensively, you should get either the Hanaro ( 051/868-7621) or Mybi card ( 1588-8990), which you can purchase for a minimum of ₩5,000 and refill as needed. Cards are sold at bus stops, subway ticket offices, or Busan Bank (www.busanbank.co.kr). Fares with either card are ₩1,100 for travel in one section and ₩1,300 for two sections. At the end of your trip, you can get a refund of any unused fares by showing your passport and returning the card at Pusan Bank.

You can also get a 1-day metro ticket for ₩4,000, good for unlimited rides until the last train of the day. You can also get a ticket that’s good for 7 days (up to 20 rides) for ₩19,000 or a 30-day ticket for ₩50,000 good for up to 60 rides on the subway only. The site for the Busan Metro is www.subway.busan.kr/english/main.

By Taxi Busan has three types of taxis—regular, call, and deluxe taxis. You can flag a regular taxi at a taxi stand or along any street. You’ll know a taxi is available by the lit sign on top or a red card on the right side of the dashboard. Call taxis can be called from hotels or other locations. Some drivers of call taxis speak English, although you shouldn’t count on that, as most do not. Deluxe taxis are black and charge more than twice the regular fare. Deluxe taxi drivers generally speak English, take credit cards, and provide in-car phones. They can be flagged down anywhere, but can be found more easily at airports, hotels, tourist sites, taxi stands, and transportation terminals. The base fare for regular taxis starts at ₩2,200 and goes up in ₩100 increments, depending on distance and time. There is a 20% increase in fees at night. Deluxe taxis start at ₩4,500 and go up in ₩200 increments. Their fares don’t go up at night.

By Bus There are three types of local buses in Busan: the regular (which are blue and white and make more stops), the express (which are red and white and make fewer stops), and the late-night bus. Local buses have destinations written in both English and Korean with recorded messages that announce the next stop. Look at the bus route and plan ahead, especially if the buses are crowded. Once you’re on the bus, push the button to let the driver know you want to get off and always exit the buses through the back door. Bus drivers generally don’t speak English.

Bus fares can be paid with cash (exact change required), tokens, bus passes, or a Hanaro or Mybi card (which can be used on both buses and subways). Cash fare for regular buses is ₩1,200 or ₩1,080 with a Hanaro card, Mybi card, or bus tour pass. For the express bus, fare is ₩1,800 and ₩1,700, respectively. The late-night buses are ₩2,200 cash and ₩2,100 with a card. All buses issue free transfers within 30 minutes. For more info, contact the Busan Bus Transportation Association ( 051/508-9200; http://bus.busan.go.kr, Korean only).

By Car Busan is easier to navigate by car than Seoul. You will still need an international driver’s license, your national driver’s license, your passport, and must be over 21. Renting a car in Busan is not cheap, but can be convenient if you plan to travel outside the city to areas where the subway or buses don’t go. You can rent a car for as few as 6 hours or for several days. Prices start at ₩45,000 for a small-size car for 6 hours or ₩80,000 per day, with higher rates for larger cars and lower daily rates if you rent for more days. There are dozens of car-rental agencies throughout the city, but only a handful operate from Gimhae Airport. They are Avis Rent-a-Car ( 051/941-7400); KT Kumho ( 051/941-8000); Jeju Rent Car ( 051/972-4777); and Samsung Rent Car ( 051/973-6611). You can reserve your car online before you arrive, or ask your hotel desk to help you with a rental if you want a car just for a short while during your stay.

On Foot Due to its size, Busan is not a city to explore solely on foot, but there are nice places to walk once you get there by bus or subway. Areas around Gwangalli Beach and Yongdusan are especially nice for strolling. There are also wonderful hiking opportunities in the mountains and parks. See the “Hiking” section.

Busan

American Express The American Express office is located on the ninth floor of the Busan Jung-ang Building #51, Daechang-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu ( 1588-7000).

Banks, Foreign Exchange & ATMs In general, ATMs are located at the airport, the train station, supermarkets, and at banks. Kookmin Bank, Citibank, Korea Exchange Bank, and Chohung Bank all have international ATMs. Most ATMs provide service in Korean and English, but Citibank ATMs provide information in 11 languages. There are seven Citibank locations throughout Busan ( 051/621-0222; www.citibank.co.kr). Most ATMs operate 24 hours.

At banks in Busan, each customer takes a numbered ticket and waits until his or her number is called. If you want to exchange traveler’s checks, make sure you have your passport, and if you are exchanging cash, you must visit a bank that is authorized for international exchange. Banks are open Monday to Friday 9:30am to 4:30pm and are closed on weekends and national holidays.

Car Rental See the “By Car” listing in the previous “Getting Around” section.

Cellphones KTF cellphones can be rented at Gimhae Airport and Busan’s International Ferry Terminal. See Chapter 12 “Planning Your Trip to South Korea,” for details.

Consulates Busan doesn’t have an American consulate, but the U.K. honorary consulate ( (0)51/463-4630 and 070/8862-4100) is at 1401 Yoochang Building, Room 1401, Jungang-daero, Jungu.

Australia has an honorary consulate ( 051/647-1762) in room no. 802 of the Samwhan Officetel, 830-295, Bumil 2-dong, Dong-gu.

Canada has an honorary consulate at the Dongsung Chemical Co. Ltd., 472 Shin Pyung-dong, Saha-gu ( 051/204-5581). Take bus no. 2, 11, 98, 113, 138-1, 161, or 338 to the Dongsung Chemical Co. Station. They’re open Monday through Friday 8-11:30am and 1 to 4:30pm.

Currency Exchange You can change money at most Busan banks on weekdays—just look for the currency exchange desk. The Korean Exchange Bank, 89-1, Jung-ang-dong 4-ga, Jung-gu, is the most convenient place to exchange currency downtown. You’ll also find currency exchange bureaus at the airport, at the train station, and in large shopping areas. It is more difficult to exchange traveler’s checks, but most banks will accept hard currency, like U.S. dollars and British pounds. Be sure to have your passport and keep the receipt to change back any leftover currency you may have at the end of your trip.

Doctors & Dentists Most of the nicer hotels have medical clinics staffed by registered nurses and have doctors on duty during specified hours or on call 24 hours. Otherwise, your concierge or consulate can refer you to an English-speaking doctor or dentist. In an emergency, dial 999 or 1339 or call one of the recommendations under “Hospitals,” below.

Embassies & Consulates The Australian Consul is located at Room 802 Samwhan, Bumil 2-dong, Dong-gu ( 051/830-295). The Australian Embassy is at 1434-1, U 1-dong, Haeundae-gu ( 051/744-2281 or 051/647-1762; www.southkorea.embassy.gov.au). The Canadian Consulate is at the Dongsung Chemical Co., 472 Shin Pyung-dong, Saha-gu or 32-1, 2-ga Daechang-dong, Jung-gu ( 051/246-7024 or 051/240-1813). The U.K. Consulate is at 25-2 Jung-ang-dong, Jung-gu ( 051/463-4630). The New Zealand Consulate can be found at 84-10, 4-ga, Jung-ang-dong, Jung-gu ( 051/464-5055). There is no American or British embassy in Busan.

Hospitals Several hospitals in Busan have doctors who speak English fluently. If you need medical help, try the Good Gang-an Hospital, 40-1 Namcheon-song, Suyeong-gu, easy to find if you take the subway to Geumnyeonsan Station (exit 4; 051/625-0900); or the BNU Hospital, 305 Gudeok-lo, Seogu, Ami-dong ( 051/240-7890), which you can get to by taking subway line 1 to Tosung-dong Station. There is a special receptionist for English speakers on the sixth floor.

Internet Access The city of Busan offers free Wi-Fi at 25 tourist locations, including Busan Station; Haeundae, Gwangailli, Songdo, and Songjeong beaches; the Geumjeong Sanseong; Yongdusan; and Jagalchi Market. Many of the high-end hotels and love motels in the city provide free Internet access in the rooms. If you don’t have your own device, there are also hundreds of PC bahngs (computer rooms) that offer high-speed connections and charge between ₩500 and ₩2,000 per hour. Many are open 24 hours.

Laundry Most of the city’s hotels have laundry facilities available. There are a few coin laundries in the city, but it’s easier to find dry cleaners scattered around each neighborhood.

Maps Free city maps in English are available at tourist information centers located throughout the city. See “Visitor Information,” earlier, for locations.

Newspapers & Magazines English print versions of two Korean newspapers, the Korean Herald (www.koreaherald.co.kr) and The Korea Times (http://times.hankooki.com) can be found at convenience stores, street stalls, hotels, and bus, train, and subway terminals. A good English-language magazine for what’s going on around the city is Busan Haps (http://busanhaps.com). News magazines issued abroad can be found in most large hotel bookstores, but for more specialized journals or periodicals, visit the major bookstores. See the “Shopping” section for locations.

Pay Phones Public telephones are difficult to find in Busan. However, some phones take only coins, others accept calling cards, and some take credit cards. Charges start at ₩70 for 30 seconds. Toll and international calls’ rates vary. Calling cards may be purchased at newsstands or convenience stores in ₩3,000, ₩5,000, or ₩10,000 denominations. To make an international collect call, dial 00799 for operator assistance.

Pharmacies Simple Western remedies like aspirin are most likely to be found in 24-hour convenience stores and the lobbies of high-end hotels. You can find pharmacies in any neighborhood, but none open 24 hours. Most display a large cross symbol (usually green), but all of them have the Korean word for medicine (약) on their windows.

Police The emergency number for the police is 112. There are 14 police stations throughout the city of Busan. The Busan Police are under the jurisdiction of the national government, since all of South Korea is under one national police organization.

Post Offices There are 145 post offices and 80 postal agencies in the city, so it’s not difficult to find one, especially since the signs are in English. They’re all open 9am to 6pm weekdays, but only a handful are open 9am to 1pm Saturdays.

Restrooms There are free public restrooms available at most subway stations, bus terminals, train stations, and some tourist attractions. However, some restrooms in South Korea do not provide toilet paper or paper towels. It is best to carry a small packet of tissues with you at all times. You can buy them at any corner store or in vending machines outside some restrooms for ₩500. American-style fast-food restaurants and large department stores have the best public restrooms.

Safety The crime rate is relatively low in all of South Korea. In Busan, you should take the usual precautions as you would in any major city in the world. Watch out for pickpockets and purse snatchers on public transportation, and exercise caution when traveling alone at night, especially around the port areas.

Taxes A value-added tax (VAT) of 10% is usually added to most goods and services. Most stores and restaurants just include it in their prices. In tourist hotels, the VAT is applied to rooms, meals, and services and is included on the bill. A tax-free shopping sign on a store means that you can get a refund on the VAT when you buy at that store. You must get a receipt, and get a stamp from the Customs officer; be prepared to show him or her the purchased item and the receipt. You can get a refund at the Cash Refund Office at the airport. For more info call Global Refund at 02/776-2170. You must leave South Korea within 3 months from the date of purchase to receive the refund.

Water Drinking tap water in Busan is not advised. Most restaurants will offer water from a self-service water dispenser, which is fine to drink. Otherwise, bottled water is recommended. You can buy bottles at any corner store or tourist attraction for about ₩500.

Weather Located in the temperate monsoon zone and influenced by its seaside location, Busan has four distinct seasons. The city is relatively warm year-round and positively steamy in the summer, reaching up to 90°F (32°C) with high humidity. Its average annual temperature is 57°F (14°C), with average winter temperatures around 39°F (4°C). Weather information can be found on the city’s site (http://english.busan.go.kr/main) or by dialing 131.

Where to Stay

Accommodations in Busan range from high-end beach resorts and rental condos to small yeogwan and love motels.

Although most of the upscale resorts are in Haeundae, there are a variety of motels and midpriced lodgings throughout the city. Make sure you specify that you want a room with a bed (chimdae bahng); otherwise, you’ll end up with a Korean-style ondol room where you sleep on the floor on padded blankets (the floors are heated in the winter). Unless otherwise indicated, a 10% VAT will usually be added to prices quoted for high-end hotels. Lower-end motels quote flat fees that you pay upfront when you check in. High season in Busan is from mid-July to August, when the kids are out of school and the water becomes a comfortable temperature for swimming. Be sure to reserve a room in advance if planning a trip during that time. Otherwise, it’s not difficult to just walk in and get a room in town.

Other than the accommodations listed below, two of Busan’s temples offer overnight stays with an opportunity to meditate and participate in temple life. Spending a night at Beomeosa ( 051/508-3122) costs ₩50,000 to ₩80,000 per night, which includes dinner and breakfast. The smaller, less famous Hongbeopsa ( 051/508-0345) offers a cheaper stay at ₩20,000 per night. They ask that you make reservations at least 10 days in advance. Additional info about the temples can be found in the “Top Attractions” section, later in this chapter.

Songjeong

SongJung Hotel Located right next to Songjeong Beach, this is one of the larger hotels in the area—which is to say, not that large at all. The hotel doesn’t have a lot of amenities, but the rooms are airy, clean, and largely unadorned. They have both oceanview and city-view rooms, but you’ll pay extra for the seaside privilege. Even if you opt for a less expensive room, you’ll still be within walking distance of the beach. The staff does not speak great English, but they are friendly and helpful.

297-9 Songjeong-dong, Haeundae-gu. www.songjunghotel.co.kr. 051/702-7766. 60 units. ₩160,000 single/double, ₩220,000 and up for a suite. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; cafe; karaoke. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, fridge, hair dryer.

Haeundae

Haeundae

Expensive

Novotel Ambassador Busan ★ Good for both business and luxury travelers, the natural hot spring spa and golf center are a nice touch. With modern facilities, the Ambassador has contemporary dining available on-site. The rooms are spacious and airy with probably the best beds in the city. There is an extra charge for an oceanview room.

1405-16 Jung-dong, Haeundae-gu. www.novotelbusan.com. 051/743-1234. Fax 051/743-1250. 327 units. ₩370,000 standard rooms, ₩700,000 suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; lounge; cafe; pool; golf center; health club; Jacuzzi; sauna; concierge; babysitting; smoke-free rooms. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

Palé de CZ ★★★ This Korean-style condo stands 17 stories tall, right near the sand. It has a variety of rooms and suites with dining areas, flatscreen televisions and cozy beds with fluffy comforters. Ask for an oceanview to get the most out of the prime location and to see the boardwalk action below. Both beds and ondol rooms available.

1124-2 Jung-dong, Haeundae-gu. 051/746-1010. 197 units. ₩200,000 standard room; suites ₩400,000 and up, 10% VAT not included. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; 2 lounges; cafe; pool; indoor golf; health club. In room: A/C, TV, kitchen, fridge.

Riviera Hotel ★ Located on top of the Riviera Department store, it isn’t the fanciest hotel in the neighborhood, but it is conveniently located, as it’s within walking distance to both the subway and the beach. The rooms are basic, but serviceable, and the bathrooms are small, though they offer both a tub and a shower head. The English-speaking staff are exceedingly polite.

1380-14 Jung-1-dong, Haeundae-gu. 051/466-9101. Fax 051/462-9101. 77 units. ₩200,000 standard room. AE, MC, V. Parking in the department store below. Amenities: Restaurant; room service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, minibar, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.

Westin Chosun Beach Hotel ★★★ Built in 1978, this was Busan’s first luxury hotel. With a prime location at the western end of Haeundae Beach, the hotel’s rooms all have views of the ocean and Gwangalli Bridge or the forest park. It’s worth it to pay a little extra and get the ocean view. The beds aren’t as “heavenly” as the hotel claims, but they are comfortable. Most rooms and suites are spacious and Western-style, but they do have ondol rooms, which are also roomy. Staff levels of English vary from very good to passable, but everyone is polite and accommodating.

737 Woo 1-dong, Haeundae-gu 612-600. www.starwoodhotels.com. 051/749-7000. Fax 051/742-1313. 290 units. ₩190,000 standard room; ₩460,000 deluxe oceanview suite with king bed. AE, DC, MC, V. Valet and free self-parking. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; lounge; cafe; pool; driving range; health club; spa; sauna; boat rentals; bikes; concierge; room service; babysitting; smoke-free rooms; Wi-Fi (in lobby). In room: A/C, TV, minibar, fridge, hair dryer, Internet (fee).

Inexpensive

Busan Youth Hostel Arpina ★★ This hostel belongs to the Arpina chain (arpina is a Korean-made word, short for areumdapge pieonada, which translates as “bloom beautifully”), which advertises it as the world’s best youth hostel. For the price, the convenient location and facilities can’t be beat. Though the rooms are modest, they are modern, some with ocean views of Haeundae Beach and the Gwangalli Bridge. Ideal for families traveling together, ask for one of the twin or triple “business rooms” if you want a Western-style hotel room with a bed. Family rooms are suites (usually with one double bed), complete with dining table and kitchen. They don’t take reservations online, but you can e-mail or call to book a room.

1417 Wu-dong, Haeundae-gu. www.arpina.com/english/00.main/main.asp. 051/731-9800. Fax 051/740-3225. 469 beds. ₩27,000 bed in dorm room; ₩130,000 standard room. AE, MC, V. On-site parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; lounge; driving range; health club; pool; sauna; smoke-free rooms. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, Internet.

Grand Prix Motel Of the many love motels in the area, this one is convenient to both the beach and the subway (about midway between the two), close enough to the main drag, but far enough to be away from most of the noise. In this older building, the rooms are still spacious and comfortable.

644-15 U-dong, Haeundae-gu. 051/755-5001. 34 units. ₩40,000 standard room weekdays, ₩55,000 weekends. MC, V. In room: TV, A/C, fridge, Internet.

Own House Motel An upscale version of many of the love motels in South Korea, this motel has modern and comfortable rooms. Although a bit on the smaller side, the rooms have understated decor with clean-line and dark wood furnishings. There are only two types of rooms, deluxe and superior, and it’s worth paying the ₩10,000 more for the superior.

541-22 U-1-dong, Haeundae-gu. 051/747-0935. 34 units. ₩45,000 standard room weekdays, ₩60,000 weekends. MC, V. Amenities: Lounge. In room: TV/DVD, Internet.

Gwangalli

Hotel Homers ★★ This boutique hotel is located near the bridge in Gwangalli. It has state-of-the art facilities, making it one of the most popular places for South Korean tourists. The building is 20 stories tall, with most rooms having seaside views. You can get a much better rate if you book online. Rooms are contemporary yet cozy, with comfortable beds (except in the Korean-style rooms, of course).

193-1 Gwangan-2-dong, Suyeong-gu. www.homershotel.com/english/community/site.php. 051/750-8000. Fax 051/750-8001. 104 units. ₩210,000 and up for beachside standard rooms. AE, MC, V. On-site parking. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; lounge; health club; spa; sauna; smoke-free rooms. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Internet.

Jung-gu/Nampo-Dong

Jung-gu/Nampo-Dong

Busan Tourist Hotel ★ Convenient to both the Gukje and the Jagalchi markets, this hotel is located at the base of Yongdusan (near Busan Tower) so you’ll have to walk up a bit of a slope to get to it. Built in 1974, the hotel is a bit dated, but convenient. Rooms are relatively spacious though they are sparsely decorated (ondol rooms are a bit larger than Western-style ones).

12 Donggwang-dong 2-ga, Jung-gu. 051/241-4301. Fax 051/244-1153. 275 units. ₩120,000 standard room, ₩160,000 and up suite. MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; cafe; health club; sauna; room service; bakery; karaoke lounge. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, Internet.

Commodore Hotel ★★ Inspired by palaces from the Joseon Dynasty, this 15-story hotel is hard to miss with its pagoda-like shape and traditional designs incorporated into a high-rise building. Inside, the rooms and amenities are modern. Added bonus: It’s centrally located just minutes from the ferry terminals and the Jagalchi Market. If you have extra room in your budget, book a “corner suite” for the best deal in terms of space and amenities.

743-80, Youngju-dong, Jung-gu. www.commodore.co.kr/english/main/main.php. 051/466-9101. Fax 051/462-9101. 314 units. ₩150,000 and up standard room, ₩330,000 and up suites. AE, DC, MC, V. On-site parking. Amenities: Restaurant; pool; health club; sauna; business center; room service. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, fridge, hair dryer, safe, Internet (fee).

Seomyeon

Blue Backpackers Hostel ★★ Located inside the Gyeongnam Apartments, this spare but functional hostel is the best value you’ll find in the city’s center. It’s within walking distance to shops, banks, and the subway. The free Internet, laundry, and breakfast (well, toast and coffee) are an added bonus. All beds and rooms have shared bathrooms and the owner speaks English. Be sure to book well in advance during high season in July and August (though the owner will let you sleep on the living room floor or sofa for ₩10,000 if you care less about privacy than about saving money).

Bldg. 106 #1802, Gyeongnam Apt., 944-1 Beomcheon 2-dong Jin-gu. www.busanbackpackers.com. 051/634-3962. 14 beds. Cash only. ₩20,000 dorm-room bed; ₩35,000 single; ₩45,000 double. MC, V. Amenities: Living room w/TV/VCR; shared kitchen.

Busan Lotte Hotel ★★ Built in 1997, this is one of the few luxury hotels convenient for business travelers who have work in the Busanjin area. It’s close to shopping, subways, and the financial district. The tropical rainforest lounge is sort of fun and the Lotte department store is conveniently attached. The hotel is 43 stories high; you’ll get a magnificent view of the city from any of the higher floors. The rooms aren’t huge and the bathrooms are even smaller, especially for the price, but the staff speak English and are very professional.

503-15 Busanjin-gu, Bujin-dong. www.lottehotelbusan.com. 051/810-1000, LA office 310/540-7010, New York office 201/944-1117. Fax 051/810-5110. 806 units. ₩250,000 standard room; ₩345,000 executive room. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 5 restaurants; bar; cafe; pool; golf course; health club; spa; business center; smoke-free rooms; bakery; casino; duty-free shop. In room: A/C, TV/ DVD, minibar, fridge, hair dryer.

Inexpensive

Elysee Motel A love motel conveniently located to Yongdusan Park, BIFF, and the subway, the English-speaking owner will be happy to provide you with a map and local advice. You can’t miss the building that looks like a faux Medieval castle made with white logos. Both ondol and beds available.

46-beonji Donggwang-dong, 3(sam)-ga, Jung-gu, www.elyseemotel.com/english/main2.asp. 011/264-8048 or 051/251-4008. ₩40,000 to₩60,000 standard double. MC, V. On-site parking. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, fridge, hair dryer, computer w/Internet.

Dongnae

Dongnae

Hotel Nongshim ★★ A midsize building in the hills, the hotel’s best attribute is the Heosimcheong (they spell it Hurshimchung) Spa, a multilevel bathhouse associated with the hotel. Both Western-style and ondol rooms are available.

137-7 Oncheon-dong, Dongnae-gu. www.hotelnongshim.com/eng/index.asp. 051/550-2100. 199 rooms. ₩230,000 double/ondol; ₩500,000 and up suite. 10% VAT and 10% service charge not included. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; cafe; health club; spa; sauna; bakery; nightclub. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, Internet.

Where to Eat

There is no shortage of places to eat in Busan, with restaurants to fit every budget, and the city is known for its fresh hwae (raw fish) and other seafood. Raw-fish restaurants and markets line the shore in Haeundae (on the east of the shore on the other side of the boardwalk away from the Westin Chosun), Gwangalli, and Songdo beaches, and at the Jagalchi Market.

Other specialties of the city include so galbi (beef ribs, usually cooked on a tabletop grill at your table), which can be found in eateries throughout the city. Sanseong Village’s restaurants specialize in yeomso gogi (grilled goat meat) or heuk yeomso (black goat), which is usually enjoyed with the local liquor, a type of rice wine. For dweji galbi (pork ribs), there is actually a street, Choryang Galbi Street, dedicated solely to restaurants that serve pork.

You can also get your fair share of cheap street food in the mokja golmok (Let’s Eat Alley). There are two of them in town—one in Seomyeon and another in Changseon-dong near the Jagalchi Market. Sit-down joints and street vendors serve everything from flatcakes and noodles to meat and dumplings. There is even a street in the Nampo-dong area called the “Original Bossam and Jokbal Alley.” Jokbal (boiled pig feet) is actually tender, sliced pork, served with bossam (lettuce leaves) to be eaten with rice, kimchi (fermented cabbage), and other banchan (side dishes).

Open-air cafes are concentrated along the shores of Gwangalli looking out onto the view of the bridge and the ocean. Restaurants and cafes are also clustered at Gwangeogol Food Town near Songjeong Beach.

Almost all of the larger hotels have their own restaurants, but prices are more expensive, since you’re paying for the ambience and the view. Department stores have Korean “fast food” (usually on the basement floor) and restaurants on the top levels. There is no end of street carts selling a variety of snacks and drinks near market streets and at night.

As elsewhere in South Korea, Korean food is usually cheaper than Western cuisine, since most ingredients have to be imported. Even getting a hamburger or pizza won’t be cheaper than buying some ddeokbokgi (spicy rice cake sticks) or gimbap (rice and other stuff rolled in seaweed).

Haeundae

If you saunter along the boardwalk on the beach with the Westin Chosun Hotel at your back, you will come upon a row of hwae restaurants along the shore. Although the seafood here is good and fresh, you’re paying a bit more for the location and the view. Haeundae does have its share of upscale restaurants. The fancier ones are located inside the high-end hotels. For less expensive, but equally delicious fare, look for those tucked away in small streets and alleyways away from the waterfront.

Expensive

Ventanas ★ WESTERN/STEAK and SEAFOOD Possibly the best place to get a steak dinner in the city. With the ocean view and the plush chairs, it’s a good choice for a romantic dinner or a business lunch. Most meals come with soup, salad, and an appetizer. The best part is the sommelier’s selection of imported wines, which are hard to find in Busan.

Inside the Novotel. 051/746-8481. Reservations recommended. Entrees ₩48,000 and up. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11:30am–2:30pm and 6–10pm; Sun 11:30am–2:30pm.

Moderate

Ganga ★★ INDIAN This Seoul chain has made its way to Busan. Good thing because it’s one of the best places to get Indian food in the country. Although prices aren’t cheap, no one’s complaining since their mouths are too full of chicken masala. Get an extra serving of naan to mop up the sauces, since the rice is the short-grain, Korean style instead of the preferred basmati.

Harbor Town 1F, 627-1 U-1(il)-dong, Haeundae-gu. 051/740-6670. www.ganga.co.kr. Curries and tandoori ₩15,000–₩40,000. AE, MC, V. Daily 11:40am–10:15pm (closes between lunch and dinner on weekdays). Parking available.

Haeundae Amso Galbi Jip ★★★ KOREAN BEEF Known for their galbi (beef rib) dishes, they also serve fresh beef for your barbecuing pleasure. For those who aren’t in the mood for meat, not to fear—this place serves up excellent noodle dishes, too. Although the sign is only in Korean (large white letters on the brown building), you can’t miss the traditional roofed entrance gate to the restaurant (although the building itself is a more modern brick block). While this is not necessarily a cheap place, the beef dishes are still priced fairly reasonably. Near the Paradise Hotel.

1225-1 Jung 1-dong, Haeundae-gu. 051/746-0033. Entrees ₩6,000–₩30,000. MC, V. Daily 10am–10pm. Closed Lunar New Year and Chuseok. Bus no. 139, 140, 239, 240, or 302. 2 blocks from the Paradise Hotel.

Inexpensive

Café Ban ★★★ CAFE In the gallery district of Haeundae, this modern space (with a polished steel, concrete, and wood interior) showcases not only good, strong coffee, but art from famous local artists. The drinks aren’t cheap, but you’re partly paying for the ambience too. So linger and enjoy a cup of the Brazilian coffee with a simple sandwich on the outdoor patio.

501-15 Jung-dong, Haeundae-gu. 051/746-8853. Coffee and sandwiches ₩8,000. MC, V. Sun–Thurs noon–1am; Fri–Sat noon–2am. Parking available.

Gwangalli

For inexpensive and fresh hwae, the Millak Hwae Town at the northeast end of Gwangalli Beach is a place to get relatively inexpensive fare. You choose a fish from one of the vendors on the first floor. They run from about ₩20,000 to ₩30,000. For an extra ₩10,000, they’ll slice and dice and fix it up for you upstairs. You can’t get fresher fish than that! Be sure you bring your appetite because the meal involves several courses, with the hwae as the highlight of the meal, ending with spicy fish stew and rice.

For a different experience, there is a Kongnamul Haejang Guk (Bean Sprout Seafood Soup) Street next to Millak Hwae Town where a handful of restaurants specialize in this spicy soup.

If you’re not in the mood for fish or soup, head on over to the Gwangalli Eonyang Bulgogi Street (on the other side of Gwangalli Beach), which is a street lined with bulgogi (marinated sliced rib-eye) restaurants.

Also on the beach side with a view of the Gwangan bridge is Café Street, a line of open-air cafes, where you can enjoy the nighttime view of the lights on the water while sipping a coffee with your loved one.

Dongnae-Gu, Geumjeong-Gu & Pnu Area

This neighborhood is famous for its Dongnae pajeon (green-onion flatcakes). You can find them being made fresh on the streets or in most of the restaurants in this area. Not a big enough dish to make a meal, it’s a great appetizer or snack or can make a good anju (drinking snack) with your soju or beer.

Moderate

Bawoo Seokswegui ★★ KOREAN BEEF Delicious Korean grilled beef at bargain-basement prices without compromising on taste, with generous portions. The galbi is terrific, and a terrific deal. Just remember, as with dining at any Korean barbecue place, you’ll be carrying the scent of your meal long after the flavors have left your tongue, so don’t wear anything too fancy.

1-10 Suan-dong, Dongnae-gu. 051/556-6115. Entrees ₩7,000–₩25,000. MC, V. Daily 11am–midnight.

Goyu Hanjeongshik ★★ TRADITIONAL KOREAN This is a great place to try a traditional hanjeongshik meal (rice served with side dishes, usually consisting of seasonal vegetables), since that’s their specialty. Be sure you bring your appetite, since the dishes will keep coming (they might fool you into thinking you’re done just because their service can be slow when they’re extra busy). There is a set menu here, but dishes vary depending on the season.

570-16 Myeong-lyun 1-dong, Dongnae-gu. 051/557-2800. Set menu ₩15,000–₩30,000. MC, V. Daily 10am–10pm. Closed Lunar New Year and Chuseok. Parking available.

Pasta Vanita ITALIAN A decent place to get spaghetti in the PNU area. Don’t expect authentic Italian fare, but the pastas are passable. You can get good vegetarian pizza and spaghetti with crab, but the biggest draw is the wide selection of imported wines. The restaurant is on the second floor.

420-30 Jangjeon-dong, Geumjeong-gu. 051/512-9113. Entrees ₩11,000–₩13,000. MC, V. Daily 11am–midnight. Take subway line 1 to PNU Station; it’s a 10-min. walk from there.

Inexpensive

Jumunjin Makguksu ★ KOREAN NOODLES Located in a nondescript gray building (the name of the place is in Korean in white letters on the side and in front), this crowded joint serves up delicious and inexpensive makguksu (buckwheat noodles in broth) and kalguksu (handmade “knife” noodles—so called because they’re cut from the dough with a knife). Be prepared to wait in line (they’ll give you a number). They have only two types of noodles and pork, so it’s not difficult to decide what you want. Several locations in town.

In Sajik-dong, across from the Sajik baseball field (at the end of the alley where the Dunkin’ Donuts is located). 051/501-7856. Entrees ₩5,000–₩15,000. No credit cards. Daily 11am–10pm. Parking available, but difficult to get a spot.

Jung-Gu & Nampo-Dong

Probably the cheapest hwae and seafood can be found at the Jagalchi Market, where you buy the fish from vendors on the street level and have them prepare it upstairs for you. They usually offer three meal options, labeled A, B, and C. Even the A course is quite filling with plenty of hwae, an appetizer course of mussels or other seafood, and maeuntang (spicy hot pot) to finish up the meal. All of the upstairs restaurants serve similar meals, costing between ₩50,000 and ₩80,000 for two people. Don’t be offended by the ajumma (married ladies) who grab you by the arm and try to get you to eat at their place. The ones who have tables far away from the view have to use such aggressive tactics to get business during slow days.

For more hwae and other seafood, go to the fish market along the waterfront of Jagalchi shijang. The vendors display their fresh catch as you walk through the narrow walkway. You make your pick and sit at an inside table or outside bench or even watch as the ajumma cooks the food right there in front of you. Choices included a variety of hwae, grilled fish, and other fresh seafood.

If you’re not in the mood for seafood, you can try your luck at the Changsun-dong Mokja, Let’s Eat Street, between Gukje and Jagalchi markets, near the Art Street.

Moderate

Gyeongbuksang Hwae KOREAN SEAFOOD One of the many hwae jip (raw fish joints) above Jagalchi Market. They don’t have the advantage of the table with a view, but they make up for it with their generous portions, so make sure you bring a full appetite for this multicourse meal of seafood. They’ll start you out with some snacks and then mussels and other shellfish. Then the large plate of raw fish arrives, and when you think you’re too full, they’ll bring the rice and a steaming pot of maeuntang with the bones and leftover bits from your hwae. Not a meal to be eaten alone; bring a friend and take your time savoring the fresh seafood.

218-ho, 4-ga, Nampo-dong, Jung-gu. 051/242-8882. Set menu for 2 ₩50,000 and up. MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm. On the 2nd floor near the back entrance to Jagalchi shijang.

Inexpensive

Changseong-hyang Mandu Jip ★ KOREAN-STYLE CHINESE Fans of the film Oldboy might recognize this dumpling joint. Don’t worry that the menu isn’t in English, since you can just point at the pictures and order. They have the standard Korean-style Chinese dishes like jjajangmyeon (noodles with black-bean sauce) and tangsuyeok (sweet and sour pork). But the mandu (dumpling) dishes are what the regulars order. The hardest part is trying to decide whether you want them steamed or fried. Look for the name in gold Chinese letters on a brick facade.

609-1 Choryang 1-dong, Dong-gu. 051/467-4496. Mandu and noodles ₩3,500–₩7,000. MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm. Take the subway to Busan Station (exit 1) and turn right at the 1st street.

Top Attractions

The beaches are the largest draw in Busan, but there are other great things to explore. Whether it’s seeing the live fish being sold at Jagalchi Market, watching the sunrise from Yonggungsa, or sitting in a cafe at Gwangalli, there’s plenty to do. If you want to see some historical culture but have limited time, at least be sure to visit the famous Beomeosa Temple. Yongdusan Park is a fun place to stop by, especially on weekends when they are usually holding some sort of performance. In the evenings, you can take a cruise around the waters, sit at a cafe, or just watch couples launch bottle rockets off the sandy beaches.

Museums & Galleries

Busan Museum ★★ MUSEUM This is the major museum for the art, culture, and history of Busan. Built in 1975, the building was renovated in 2002. With over 4,500 items in its collection, the museum exhibits everything from cultural relics to calligraphic works. Plan on spending a couple of hours here, starting with the prehistoric displays and exhibits spanning the Gaya period to the Joseon Dynasty, through the Korean War to modern-day Busan. Unfortunately, the videos are only in Korean, but artifacts are all displayed with English text.

948-1, Daeyeon 4-dong, Nam-gu. 051/610-7111. http://engmuseum.busan.go.kr. Admission free. Tues–Sun 9am–8pm; last entry 1 hr. before closing. English guides at 10:30am, 1:30pm, and 3pm. Closed national holidays. Subway: Take line 2 to Daeyeon, take exit 3, turn around 180 degrees, take the 1st left, and walk 10 min. Bus no. 25, 51, 68, 93, 134, 139, 239, 240, or 302.

Busan Museum of Art (BMA) ★ ART MUSEUM The largest modern art space in South Korea, this is one of the best places in the country to see what contemporary Korean artists are producing. The site of the annual Busan International Art Festival, the museum is also responsible for exhibits held at the Yongdusan gallery. Exhibits change every couple of months, so check with the museum to see what’s showing before you wish to visit. Plan to spend about an hour here.

1413 Woo-2-dong, Haeundae-gu. 051/744-2602. www.busanmoma.org. Admission free, last entry 1 hr. before closing. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm. Closed Jan 1, Lunar New Year, and Chuseok. Subway: Take line 2 to the Busan Museum of Art (BMA) Station, take exit 5. Bus no. 40, 139, 140, 239, 240, 302, or 2003.

Hankwang Museum MUSEUM A museum dedicated to the calligraphy and paintings of Korean, Japanese, and Chinese artists, the Hankwang, it contains more than 500 works that were collected over a 50-year period by the late Han Kwangduk. Although only a fraction of its collection is exhibited at any given moment, it is a wonderful way to glimpse the talents of brush painters and see traditional landscapes of Asia spanning works from the Joseon Dynasty through the present time.

82-1, 4-ga, Jung-ang-dong, Jung-gu (located on the 4th floor of the Hankwang building). 051/469-4111. www.asiaart.co.kr. Free admission. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm.

Toam Ceramic Park ★ PARK Located in Gijang-gun, the most rural of Busan’s districts, this park is actually a working center for ceramic artisans. If you time your visit right, you may be able to catch one of the craftsmen at work. Either way, you’ll enjoy the over 2,000 ceramic figures created by Seo Tawon, all with smiles and open mouths greeting you from the hillside. You can also just take in the scenery from the lush surrounding garden. The small restaurant on-site is a nice place to get a delicious lunch at reasonable prices: ₩5,000 for a bowl of pot jook (red-bean porridge) up to ₩15,000 for japchae (sweet-potato noodles).

521-1 Daebyeon-li, Gijang-eup, Gijang-gun. 051/721-2231. Free admission. Daily 10am–6pm. Take subway line 2 to Haeundae Station, and then take bus no. 142 or 181.

Yongdusan Gallery MUSEUM A small exhibition space just north of Yongdusan park, the gallery usually showcases exhibits from one major artist at a time. Featuring contemporary Korean works, the shows range from painting and sculpture to fashion and ceramics, organized by the Busan Museum of Art.

1-2, 2-ga, Gwangbok-dong, Jung-gu. 051/244-8228. Free admission. Daily 10am–6pm. Take the subway to either the Jung-ang-dong or Nampo-dong Station and walk to Yongdusan park. It is the 2-story building just north of the park.

Temples

Beomeosa ★★ TEMPLE Originally built in 678, Beomeosa (like most of the temples in Korea) was destroyed during the Imjin Waeran in 1592. Renovated in 1713, it is a wonderful example of mid-Joseon temple architecture. The name Beomeosa means “fish of the Buddhist scripture temple.” Located at the edge of Geumjeongsan and amid a wisteria grove that blooms each May, it is Busan’s most famous temple. A Seon (Zen) temple, hundreds of monks live here and in the 11 adjacent hermitages.

The Beomeosa complex consists of a main hall, which houses the Seokgamoni Buddha and two bodhisattvas; a bell/drum pavilion (with a three-story pagoda and a lantern dating from the Shilla Dynasty); seven royal palace wings; and three gates. The main hall was rebuilt in 1614—look for the dragon’s heads carved into its rafters. To the left of the hall is a building that’s split into three sections. The first section features murals depicting the eight major scenes from the Buddha’s life. Another section is dedicated to the Lonely Arhat, a Buddha saint who attains liberation from the cycle of reincarnation by leading a hermetic lifestyle. The third is filled with statues of Buddha’s disciples.

This is a great place to do a temple stay.

546 Cheongryong-dong, Geumjeong-gu. 051/508-3122. www.beomeosa.co.kr. Admission free. Wed–Mon 9:30am–5pm; last ticket sold at 4:30pm. Closed Lunar New Year and Chuseok. Subway: Take line 1 to Beomeosa Station, take exit 5 or 7, walk between the 2 exits along the road for 5 min. and you will reach the Samsin bus stop. Take bus no. 90 to temple. Bus no. 37, 47, 48, 49-1, 50, 50-1, 80-1, 147, 148, 247, or 301; get off at the last stop and take bus no. 90.

A Feast Fit for a Monk

Many of South Korea’s temples offer meals to visitors and to those spending the night, and while temple cuisine is likely not the best food you’ll encounter on your trip, it does stem from some fascinating traditions. The food served at temples is always vegetarian and usually consists of rice and small banchan made from local and seasonal vegetables. However, the monks will not cook with the five “hot” vegetables, including garlic and ginger, because they believe that these foods lead to obscene thoughts when eaten raw and to anger when consumed cooked.

Indeed, Korean temple food is supposed to cleanse the body and encourage spirituality. Meals are prepared as “medicine” for the mind, body, and spirit and are not supposed to be eaten for pleasure. Still, temple food can be quite tasty, as it’s always fresh and subtle in flavor. It’s definitely worth skipping a serving of beef ribs to get a taste of South Korea’s spiritual heritage.

Haedong Yonggungsa (Haedong Yonggung Temple) ★★ TEMPLE Initially built in 1376 (during the Goryeo Dynasty), the main sanctuary was reconstructed in 1970. This is one of the few temples found along the coast and it honors the Haesu Gwaneum Daebul (Seawater Great Goddess Buddha of Mercy), who is said to live alone in the ocean and to ride on the back of a dragon. Since the temple faces northeast, it offers a spectacular view of the sunrise—many come early on the Lunar New Year to make a wish as the sun rises—and an enormous bronze bell is rung five times at sunset. Special features of the temple include the three-story pagoda with its four lions (symbolizing joy, anger, sadness, and happiness), the Yacksayeorae Healing Buddha, and the Bulbeop Buddhist Sanctum (which is enclosed in a cave). Come see the cherry blossoms in April or the lanterns in May for Buddha’s Birthday.

416-3 Sirang-li, Gijang-eup, Gijang-gun. 051/722-7755. www.yongkungsa.or.kr/en/. Free admission. Daily 4am–8pm. Take subway line 1 to Dongnae Station, and across from there take bus no. 100 or 100-1 and get off at Songjeong Beach; then transfer to bus no. 181. Or take bus no. 139, 140, 239, 302-1, or 2003, get off at Songjeong Beach, and then transfer to bus no. 181.

Hongbeopsa (Hongbeop Temple) TEMPLE Located in the suburbs of Busan, this temple lies in the foothills of Cheolmasan, behind Geumjeongsan. Standing near Sinchang Farm, it aspires to be the center of Saeng-hwal Bulgyo (Buddhism for Everyday Living). There is a river nearby and a pond with about 150 types of waterlilies (they bloom in late summer). If you happen to be here for the celebration of the Buddha’s Birthday (usually in May), you can see children who are ordained as monks for the day, in the hopes of planting the seeds of Buddhism in their young minds. (Seeing small boys with shaved heads dressed in the traditional gray robes of the monks is quite a sight!) They have cultural events for foreigners once a month. You can do a temple stay but be sure to book at least 10 days in advance.

1220-1 Dugu-dong, Geumjeong-gu. 051/508-0345. www.busanbuddhism.com (Korean only). Free admission. Daily 24 hr. Bus: 1, 2, 2-1, 50-1, or 301. You can also take the subway to the Nopo-dong Station and walk from there.

Samgwangsa (Samgwang Temple) TEMPLE Built at the foot of the Baekyangsan by the monks of the Chongdae Order, this temple is relatively new. Worth a visit just for the view of the city or the spectacular sunrise, it is a place for praying to Avalokitesvara (the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy). Although the temple’s construction is recent, its designs still follow the Buddhist traditions. Other than the main Buddha hall, the guardians’ platform, which houses the four treasures of Buddhist ritual (the bell, drum, wooden fish gong, and cloud-patterned gong), is a colorful sight to behold. The nine-level DaeBo Tap (pagoda), built for world peace and the reunification of the two Koreas, with its eight sides carved with 53 Buddhas, is also worth a look.

San 131, Cho-eup Dongjin-gu. 051/808-7111. Free admission. Daily 24 hr. Bus: 44, 63, 81, 83-1, 103, 112, 133, or 201; get off at Seongyeong Apt.

Seokbulsa (Stone Buddha Temple) ★★ TEMPLE Most people don’t know about this small temple south of Geumjeong Fortress and north of Mandeok tunnel. Since it’s a walk to get here (no buses stop nearby), it’s a quiet place even on the busiest of summer weekends. The temple got its name from the statues of the Buddha carved in the rock here (Seokbul means “stone Buddha”). The main temple and some of the associated meditation halls are small “caves” carved into the rock. Of course, they have the usual wooden temple structures here, too.

San 2 Mandeok-dong, Buk-gu. Free admission. Daily 24 hr. From the express bus terminal, take bus no. 48, 110, or 111 and get off just after you pass the tunnel. You’ll find the start of the trail when you walk toward the right of the upper, older tunnel. Alternatively, take bus no. 33 to the end at Mandeok and walk 40 min. You can also take maeul (village) bus no. 9 from Dongnae Station. If you take the Geumgang cable car up, you can walk to the temple via the South Gate (Nam mun).

Historic Sites

Bokcheon-dong Burial Mounds & Museum MUSEUM At one of the oldest burial sites in the southern part of the country, there were once more than 100 burial mounds dating back to the Gaya Kingdom (6th century). Although part of the mound was destroyed inadvertently by construction in the area in 1969, it has since been designated a historical site. Now over 9,000 relics (including pieces of pottery and ironware) have been excavated from the area. Although many of those finds are no longer here (now part of the Busan Museum’s collection)—there is also a museum on-site housing some of the unearthed treasures. A few of the tombs have since been re-created.

50 Bokcheon-dong, Dongnae-gu. 051/554-4263. Free admission to the site, but the museum is ₩500 adults, ₩300 teens, ₩200 children. Mar–Oct daily 9am–6pm; Nov–Feb daily 9am–5pm. Subway: Take line 1 to Myeongnyun-dong or Dongnae Station, and then take maeul bus no. 6.

Geumjeongsanseong (Mt. Geumjeong Fortress) HIKING TRAIL High on the peak of Mt. Geumjeong, Geumjeongsanseong was the largest fortress in South Korea. There is only about a 4km (2 1/2-mile) section left from the original today, presumed to be built during the Three Kingdoms period. The present fortress was built in 1703 after the Imjin Waeran to prepare for further invasions from Japan, but none ever came. The hills are great for a half-day of hiking—the small villages nearby are known for their charcoal-grilled goat meat and makgeolli (an unfiltered rice wine).

779 Daeyeon 4-dong, Nam-gu. 051/514-5501. Admission ₩1,000, ₩700 teens 13–18, ₩500 kids 7–12. Subway: to Oncheonjang Station(line 1, exit 3), and then bus no. 203 or Beomeosa Station (line 1, exit 5 or 7), then take bus 90. Alternatively, you can take the cable car from Geumgang Park and walk the trail from the botanical garden.

U.N. Memorial Cemetery & Peace Park MEMORIAL Located near the Busan Museum, this cemetery honors international soldiers who were killed during the Korean War (1950–53). There are about 2,300 military personnel buried here, from 16 nations. The Korean government gave the 14-hectare (35-acre) property to the United Nations in perpetuity as a tribute to those who gave their lives. Dedicated in 1951, the majority of the graves are British; 500 Turkish troops and more than 100 Dutch are also interred here. The remains of all American, French, Norwegian, Philippine, Greek, Belgian, Colombian, Ethiopian, and Thai soldiers were sent home for burial.

779 Daeyeon 4-dong, Nam-gu. 051/625-0625. www.unmck.or.kr. Free admission. Winter daily 9am–4:30pm; summer daily 9am–6pm. Subway: Take line 2 to Daeyeon Station, walk 15 min. toward Gwangalli. Bus: 25, 68, 93, or 134.

Parks

Daeshin Citizen’s Park ★ WALKING TRAIL Located near Dong-A University’s main campus on Gubongsan, this small city park is densely populated by older trees on the hillside. A forest retreat in the middle of the city, it’s a great place to take a short hike, a leisurely walk, or a run along the jogging trails.

Located in the mountainside above Gudeok Stadium. Free admission. 24 hr. daily. Bus: 2, 11, 13, 15, 16, 40, 42, 58-1, 59, 67, 70, 81, 86, 96, 103, 105, 126, 140, 161, 167, 190, 309, or 310; get off at Gudeok Stadium and walk from there.

Suyeong Park ★ PARK The site of a naval camp responsible for guarding the seas to the east and to the west during the Joseon Dynasty, the park is located just north of the Suyeong intersection. It includes a couple of military shrines and the Suyeong Folk Art Center. In the open theater, they present folk performances here on a regular basis.

Suyeong-dong, Suyeong-gu. 051/610-4065. Free admission. 24 hr. Subway line 2 or 3 to Suyeong Station (then follow the signs to Suyeong Park, which is about a 300m/984-ft. walk from the station).

Yongdusan Park (Dragon Head Mountain Park) & Busan Tower ★★★ PARK Yongdusan is so named because the shape of the mountain seems to resemble the head of a dragon that climbs out of the sea. A popular park, it is a small oasis from the cars and skyscrapers of the city. There is a covered escalator from Gwangbok-dong that goes up the incline. This hillside park houses a statue of Admiral Yi Sun-shin, the great naval commander of the Joseon Dynasty.

The most popular attraction here is the Busan Tower, which climbs high above the harbor. It’s worth paying the admission just to see the view. From the top, you’ll be treated to wonderful views of the harbor and nearby Yeong-do. This is also a great place to enjoy the city lights. In addition to the tower, the park has an aquarium, a cafe, and restaurants. Quite often on summer weekends you’ll stumble upon free cultural events and performances.

Gwangbok-dong, Jung-gu. 051/860-7820. Free admission to the park. Admission to the tower ₩4,000 adults, ₩3,500 teens, ₩3,000 ages 3–12. Admission to World Folk Instrument Museum ₩2,500 adults, ₩2,000 teens, ₩1,500 ages 3–12. Park daily 24 hr.; tower and museum Apr–Sept daily 8:30am–10pm, Oct–Mar daily 9am–10pm. Subway: Take line 1 to Nampo-dong (take exit 1) and walk 10 min. From Gimhae Airport, take bus no. 310, get off at the Gumi Cultural Center in Daecheong-dong, and then walk 10 min. The bus takes an hour.

Other Attractions

Busan Aquarium ★ AQUARIUM One of the best in the country, this aquarium has three underground levels and an outdoor park, located on the edge of Haeundae Beach. It contains over 35,000 varieties of fish, algae, amphibians, and reptiles. The highlight is on the bottom level, where there is a main tank and tunnel where you can walk through the water, while fish and sharks swim above you. There is an additional ₩4,000 fee to go through the underwater simulation.

1411-4 Jung 1-dong, Haeundae-gu. 051/740-1700. www.busanaquarium.com. Admission ₩18,000 adults, ₩16,000 teens, ₩13,000 ages 3–12. Weekdays 10am–7pm; weekends and holidays 9am–9pm (daily 9am–11pm July 16–Aug 24); aquarium stays open an hour after the last admission. Subway: Haeundae Station (line 2, exit 3 or 5) and walk 10 min. toward the beach. Bus: 139, 201, 1001, or 1003. From Gimhae Airport, take bus no. 307 or city coach no. 2002 to Haeundae.

Eulsuk-do Bird Sanctuary/Nakdong Bird Estuary ★★ NATURE RESERVE The spot where the Nakdong River meets the South Sea has been declared a natural monument since 1966. At the large mouth of the river, there are sand dunes, deltas, and small islands (including Ilung-do). It is now a bird sanctuary for migrating species that visit between October and March. There are over 150 species (including many rare birds like white-naped cranes, black-faced spoonbills, and white-tailed eagles) that stop here during their travels. It’s difficult to reach by land, so it’s best to take a boat from Myeongji-dong harbor. The ideal times to see the birds is early in the day, before it gets too hot.

Nakdong-gang, Nak-dong, Hadan-dong, Saha-gu. http://wetland.busan.go.kr. Free admission to sanctuary; Estuary Eco-center ₩1,000 adults, ₩500 teens, free for children 6 and under and seniors 65 and over. Eco-center daily 9am–6pm. Subway: Hadan Station (line 1, exit 5). From there, take bus no. 58, 58-1, or 300 and get off at Eulsukdo rest stop. Tip: It will be a long walk to the bird sanctuary, so be sure to wear comfortable shoes.

Heosimcheong Spa ★ SPA Claiming to be the largest hot spring spa in Asia, Heosimcheong has multiple levels for your relaxing entertainment. One floor is just jjimjilbang (hot saunas), igloo-shaped structures made out of clay where you can steam yourself alive. This floor also has a snack shop and restaurant. On the other floor are the “grand hot springs,” a huge atrium full of pools and waterfalls of varying temperatures, ranging from boiling hot to icy cold. Get a scrub, a massage, or just relax at the third floor cafe.

137-7 Oncheon-dong, Dongnae-gu (inside the Nongshim Hotel). 051/555-1121. Admission ₩10,000 adults, ₩6,000 children. Daily 5:30am–8pm. Subway: Take line 1 to Oncheonjang Station (exit 1) and walk toward the Dongnae Gweumgangwon. Bus: 51, 51-1, 77, 80, 100, 100-1, 110, 110-1, 121, 131, 131-1, 183, 188, 189, 203, 210, or 301.

Yeongdo

Yeongdo (Yeong Island) separates the two halves of Busan Harbor. The old Yeongdo Grand Bridge connects to the rest of Busan to the island’s southern road. The scenic drive to Yeong-do leads to a group of hwae restaurants on the coast. The newer Busan Grand Bridge runs parallel to the old bridge.

Taejongdae Park ★★ PARK This place is where Shilla King Taejong (604–661), who united the three Korean kingdoms, loved to practice his archery. There are over 200 pine trees and camellias that line the coast at this gorgeous park. The park overlooks the craggy cliffs and fun-shaped rocks that cascade down into the sea below. Nearby is a 19th-century lighthouse from which you can see Oryuk-do and Japan’s Daema-do when the weather is nice. You’ll see a statue of a mother with her children called Mangbuseok (Rock of the Faithful Woman), after the legend of a woman who waited so long for the return of her husband, who had been captured by the Japanese, that she turned to stone. The statue is located at what used to be called Jasal Bawi (Suicide Rock), where people used to throw themselves into the water. A temple, Geumyeongsa, was built here to prevent further suicides and to console the ghosts of the dead.

San 29-1, Dongsam 2-dong, Yeongdo-gu. 051/405-2004. Admission ₩1,500 adults, ₩1,000 teens, ₩600 kids, free for kids 4 and under. Daily 4am–midnight. Parking ₩1,000 to ₩3,000. Ticket office Nov–Feb daily 9am–5pm, Mar–Oct daily 9am–6pm. Bus: 8, 13, 30, 88, or 101.

Organized Tours & Cultural Activities

For information and pamphlets on the following tours, stop by one of the tourist info offices or dial the Korea Travel Phone at 1330. Most larger hotels also have tour desks with staff who can provide guidance.

City Tours For general sightseeing, the Busan Convention & Visitors Bureau, 213-A BEXCO, Woo 2-dong, Haeundae-gu ( 052/740-3600; http://busancvb.org), offers city tours buses ( 1688-0098; www.citytourbusan.com) near Busan Station. There are three day courses plus a nighttime course. The Haeundae Course runs several times a day and goes to Haeundae and Gwangalli beaches, BEXCO, and the Busan Museum. The Taejongdae course also runs several times a day and goes to the Modern History Museum, Taejongdae, Songdo Beach, and Jagalchi Market. Tours run Tuesday through Sunday and cost ₩10,000 adults, ₩5,000 for teens and children. The Haeundae course runs every 40 min., 9:20am to 4:40pm, while the other 2 courses vary, depending on the season. The nighttime course starts at 7pm October to April, at 7:30pm May to September. The bus departs from a stop in front of the Arirag Hotel near Busan Station. Buses 17, 59-1, 61, 67, 81, 85, 103, 167, and 1004 all stop at Busan Station.

Boat Tours Covea Cruise, 33-1 32-beonji, Dalmiti-gil, Haeundae-gu ( 052/742-2525; www.coveacruise.com), offers a variety of regular and dinner-boat cruises around Busan. They generally last 1 1/2 to 2 hours and range in price from ₩40,000 to ₩90,000.

If you want to try something a little romantic, take the overnight Panstar Cruise, offered by Panstar Line ( 1577-9996). Tours start at 4pm every Saturday afternoon and go to Jodo, Taejongdae, Molundae, Oryuk Islets, Haeundae, the Gwangan Bridge, and back through Haeundae and the Oryuk Islets, returning around 8:30 to 9am on Sunday morning. Ticket sales start at 2pm and boarding is at 3pm. Regular rates for a standard room (with double bunk beds) start at ₩99,000 and go up to the seaside “Royal Suite” at ₩275,000. Plan to tack on an additional ₩20,000 during high season. Take subway line 1 to Jungang-dong Station.

Outdoor Pursuits

Beaches

Dadaepo Beach BEACH This beach is on the western side of Busan where the Nakdong River joins the sea. Perfect for families with small children, the waters are quite shallow and safe. Like all beaches in Busan, Dadaepo is most popular during the summer break time of July and August. The beach becomes one big outdoor concert venue in August when the Busan International Rock Festival happens. Take bus no. 2 or 98 to Dadaepo from Busan Station. The beach is open 24 hours with shower booths and a cafeteria.

Gwangalli Beach ★★ BEACH Famous for its fine sand, Gwangalli Beach stretches 1.4km (almost a mile). When Japan colonized Korea in the last century, this beach was used to teach kids how to swim during the summer break. You can rent water skis or jet skis, or even go windsurfing. The beach draws its share of crowds during the summer and sports an outdoor stage where the Busan Ocean Festival is held each year. Open 24 hours it’s most popular in July and August. Subway: Gwangan Station (line 2, exit 3 or 5) and walk 5–10 min. to the beach. Buses to Gwangalli run frequently (bus no. 42, 139, 140, 239, or 240).

Haeundae Beach ★★ BEACH At Busan’s (and perhaps South Korea’s) most popular beach, you certainly won’t be escaping the crowds if you come during the summer. From June to August this beach is packed, so much so that the rented umbrellas take over the sand. The waters, however, remain warm enough for swimming through September. The sand is rough, as it is made up of eroded rocks washed down by the Chuncheon stream and shells that have been naturally ground down by the wind and sea.

Besides all the other beachside sports you can enjoy, it is one of the few places in the country where you can windsurf. Take a break from your sunbathing and have a little stroll down to Dongbaek Island. There are many islands in the South Korean Sea called Dongbaek-do (all named for the dongbaek trees that thrive on them). This one in Busan (which is no longer even an island) has a small park and a tall statue of a mermaid. Take subway line 2 to Dongbaek Station or Haeundae Station (exit 3 or 5) or bus no. 139, 140, 240, or 302. For more info, contact the Haeundae Beach Department of Culture and Tourism at 051/749-5700.

Songjeong Beach ★ BEACH On the far eastern side of Busan, Songjeong Beach’s shallow waters are also perfect for children. Not as popular as Haeundae or Gwangalli beaches, it still draws a crowd during the summer season. The white sand was created by erosion from the Songjeong River and from crushed seashells. The beach is open from 9am to 6pm. At the entrance to the beach is Jukdo and its thick evergreen groves. At the northeast end are rocky shores, popular for fishing. Take subway line 2 to Haeundae Station (exit 7), and then take bus no. 100, 100-1, 139, or 142. Bus nos. 140, 239, and 302 also go to Songjeong Beach.

Hiking

The mountains in Busan have some good hiking trails. On the west side of town, Geumjeongsan is the most popular place for residents to hike on weekends, so try to visit on a weekday to avoid the crowds. One of the more frequented routes starts from the South Gate (Nam mun) of Geumjeong Fortress. You can get there by taking a cable car from Geumgang Park (near Myeongnyun-dong Station) or by taking a bus from Oncheonjang Station to Sanseong Maeul, a small village hidden in the mountain valley. Walk down to the North Gate (Buk mun) and down to Beomeosa. The trail is about 8.8km (5.5 miles) and will take about 3 to 4 hours to complete.

Swimming

If you don’t mind swimming in chilly waters, you can enter the Polar Bear Swimming Competition ( 051/749-4065 or 749-3986), which is one of Busan’s many Lunar New Year festivities (a similar event is also held at Jeju-do’s Seogwipo City). The dozens of other events include the Haeundae White Sand Races, Haeundae Ocean Swimming Contest, and the Ice Carving Competition (that should give you an idea of how cold the waters are during the winter!). It costs ₩40,000 and only 2,000 people are allowed to compete. So put your hat in the ring early for an icy dip, your free T-shirt, and a surprise souvenir. For more beach information.

All the luxury hotels in town have their own indoor pools, but if you’re not lucky enough to stay in one of them, you can still pay a fee to just use their pool and/or spa facilities. The Busan Port Authority is currently building a multiuse megaplex by the port, which will include an indoor pool, a spa, a sauna, and a sports center. If you can’t wait until the building is finished in 2020, the Busan Sports Complex has an Olympic-size pool, built for the 2002 Asian Games, available for public use. It’s open Tuesday through Sunday 6am–9pm. Subway: Sajik Station (line 3, exit 1) or Sports Complex Station (line 3, exit 9). Bus: 10-1, 12, 19, 44, 50, 57, 80-1, 111-2, 131, 189-1 or 1002.

Shopping

There is no shortage of shopping to be done in Busan. Be it haggling with old ladies in the open-air markets or browsing the high-end department stores, there are ample opportunities for you to part with your won.

Best Shopping Areas

For bargain hunting and browsing in outdoor markets, the largest shijang (traditional market) is Gukje Market, which is also close to the Jagalchi Market. Smaller open-air marketplaces can be found in most neighborhoods in the city.

There are plenty of fashions on display, but most items are made for petite women, so it may be difficult to find larger sizes. If that’s what you need, head for the Choryang Arcade for Foreigners (usually called Texas Street or Foreigners’ Street by locals) in Dong-gu, where you may find a larger variety of sizes.

For more stylish fashions, try the boutiques and stalls in the PNU Area of Dongnae, as well as the areas around Kyungsung and Pukyong universities, catering to the college-age crowd. In the college areas are “shopping town” and “beauty town,” where you can find the latest clothes, accessories, and cosmetics. A tight group of hip clothing stores is in Gwangbok-dong. The cluster of Nampo-dong shops and restaurants and the popular night market draws a crowd. There are more shops available in Seomyeon as well. The alleys near the cafes on Gwangalli Beach also have shops that attract the younger crowd.

For upscale shopping, Busan’s department stores are chock-full of everything from designer handbags to housewares. Major stores like Lotte and Shinsegae can be found in Centum City and Busanjin (in the Seomyeon area). Mega-shopping malls, like Migliore and the Judies Taehwa in Seomyeon or the SfunZ in Haeundae, also have several floors of boutique shops all in one multistoried building or have underground shopping areas. There are some in Nampo-dong and Sasang as well. Duty-free shops can be found near major transportation (at the airport and the ferry terminal) or in luxury hotels, like the Lotte in Busanjin or the Paradise in Haeundae. Also, Rodeo Street in Haeundae is an area dedicated to upscale shops.

Large-scale box marts, like E-Mart, can also be found in major sections of town like Haeundae and Busanjin.

In general, you can find vendors who speak English at hotel arcades, department stores, souvenir and duty-free shops, and on Foreigners’ Street. Otherwise, be ready to use a lot of sign language and gesturing to get your point across.

Shopping A to Z

Bookstores

Although there are many more smaller bookstores around the city, you’ll find a better selection of English-language books and publications at those listed here. Kyobo Mungo, 536-3 Bujeon-dongjin-gu ( 051/806-3501), located on the first floor of the Kyobo Life Insurance building, also has a selection of stationery and other products. Also in Busanjin are the Dongbo Bookstore, 165-5 Bujeon 2-dongjin-gu ( 051/803-8000), and the Yeong-gwang Bookstore, Bujeon 1-dongjin-gu ( 051/816-9500), which has a good selection of English-language magazines and staff who speak pretty good English. In Jung-gu, the Munwudang, 3, 4-ga, Nampo-dong, Jung-gu ( 051/245-5555), has a small English-language section, and the Nampo Mungo, 2-ga, Nampo-dong, Jung-gu ( 051/245-8911), on the first two floors of the Horim building, has some English books.

Contemporary Art & Galleries

Although its claim as South Korea’s Montmartre is overstated, the Art Street inside the Gukje Underground Shopping Center is a good place to get some insight into Busan’s art scene. Take subway line 1 to Jagalchi (exit 7) and walk about 5 minutes. There are also a handful of galleries that exhibit and sell works by contemporary Korean artists in Haeundae, Nampo-dong, and Gwangalli.

One of my favorite places, in the Haeundae area, is Arbazaar, 1467-2 Jwa-dong, Haeundae-gu ( 051/704-0151; located right off the Sangsan subway station), which specializes in art by contemporary South Korean artists.

Also, if you happen to be in the Gwangalli area at night, don’t miss the Gwangalli New Media Art Museum, 148-15 Namcheon 2(i)-dong ( 051/622-4251; http://badavit.suyeong.kr). The outdoor works by such international artists as Jenny Holzer, Jean-Pierre Ratnaud, and Korea’s own video artist, Paik Nam-June, span the shores of Gwangalli Beach. Take subway line 3 to Gwang-an Station (exit 5) or Geumnyeonsan Station (exit 5). Buses 20, 38, 51, 51-1, 83, 83-1, 108-1, 131, and 155 stop at the museum.

Department Stores

Like any South Korean city worth its salt, Busan has several multistoried department stores that sell everything from housewares to groceries and high-end fashions. If you need a break from shopping, you can go to the basement or top floors for your choice of upscale or budget food to fuel up.

Your best bet will be to go to Centum City ★ (subway line 2 to Centum City Station), where the entrance to both the Lotte ( 051/730-2500) and the 18-floor Shinsegae department stores are easily accessible from the subway. They’re both open from 10:30am to 10pm daily.

The Lotte Department Store ( 051/810-2500), attached to the Lotte hotel in Seomyeon, is an 11-story megacomplex with everything from clothes to cosmetics to sporting goods and jewelry. The ninth floor is reserved for restaurants and the top two floors are the Lotte Cinema. Groceries and Korean-style fast food are available on the first basement floor, with a cafe and sports center underneath. Parking is available on basement floors three to five. Take subway line 1 or 2 to Seomyeon (exit 3, 5, or 7). The second basement level of the department store is connected to the subway. They’re open daily from 10:30am to 8pm.

Lotte has another location in Dongnae ( 051/605-2500). Take subway line 1 to Myeongnyun-dong (exit 1) and walk about 5 minutes.

Slightly smaller (only nine floors) is the Hyundai Department Store ( 051/667-2233), located right in front of the Beomil-dong subway station, near Busanjin Market. It’s arranged more like Western-style department stores, with cosmetics and clothing on the bottom floors and housewares and electronics on the seventh floor. Restaurants are on the eighth floor, with a food court on the second basement floor. The top floor has a health spa, golf center, and swimming pool. Some parking is available on the third basement floor. Open daily 10:30am to 8pm, the store is closed one Monday a month. Take subway line 1 to the Beomil-dong Station (exit 5 or 7). The second basement floor of the store connects to the subway.

Discount Megastores

Most conspicuous of the large-scale discount stores are the bright yellow and black E-Marts, which have several locations in the city. The easiest to get to is the Haeundae E-Mart, 1767 Gungil 1-dong, Haeundae-gu; take the subway line 2 to Jung-dong Station (exit 7 or 9). They’re open daily from 10am to midnight, but closed Lunar New Year and Chuseok.

Home Plus also has several locations in Busan. There is one in Haeundae ( 051/532-2080), 1406-2 Haeundae-gu 1-dong. Take subway line 2 to Dongbaek Station (exit 1) and walk about 3 minutes. They’re open daily from 10am to midnight. The Home Plus in Seomyeon is off subway line 2, Buam Station (exit 4). It’s about a 5-minute walk toward Dang-gam-dong and it’s open 10am to 11pm daily.

Fashion

There is no shortage of clothing stores in Busan. For high-end designer fashions, you can shop the hotel arcades and departments stores (info above). The best for window shopping are the shopping arcades found in various neighborhoods.

The younger crowds are drawn to the area around Busan National University (PNU) in Dongnae, where you’ll find a bunch of cute boutiques with the latest fashions, interspersed with restaurants and cafes. A touch smaller, but just as fun and crowded, are the areas around Kyungsung University and Pukyong National University.

For serious shopping, you can go to the mega-shopping malls, fashioned after Seoul’s Dongdaemun Market. These super-sized buildings house dozens of wholesale clothing vendors vying for your business. Some of the complexes even have movie theaters, bookstores, and restaurants. One of the most popular for discovering young designers is Migliore ★★, 668-1 Jeunpo 1-dong, Jin-gu ( 051/922-6000), located in Seomyeon. Open daily 11am to 11:40pm, it’s closed the first and third Mondays of the month. Take subway line 1 to Seomyeon Station (exit 5 or 6). Another large shopping complex in the area is Judies Taehwa ( 051/667-7000), also off the Seomyeon Subway Station. Open daily from 11am to 11pm, they’re closed the second and fourth Mondays of the month. The street around Judies is a good place to shop for bargains.

Save Zone, 380-14 Jung-dong, Haeundae-gu ( 051/740-9000), and SfunZ ( 051/740-0800) are both huge malls in the Haeundae area. Take subway line 2 to the Haeundae Station (exit 3 for Save Zone and exit 1 for SfunZ). Save Zone is open daily from 10am to 10pm, while SfunZ opens a half-hour later.

Renicite ( 051/319-5000) is the huge complex in Sasang-dong. It’s open daily 10:30am to midnight (closed on the first Mon of the month). Take subway line 2 to Sasang (exit 3) and walk about 10 minutes.

Hundreds of jewelry wholesalers and vendors are gathered together at Beolmil-dong Gold Theme Street (a.k.a. Jewelry Street) near the Jayu and Pyeonghwa shijangs. Hours vary, but most are open daily from 10am to 8pm. Take subway line 1 to Beomil-dong (exit 8).

Food

Although a bit overpriced, the Korean Traditional Authentic Food shop is conveniently located at Gimhae Airport (right next to the airport police station). In this shop, open daily from 8am to 6pm, you can find everything from fermented seafood to ginseng and cookies. For better bargains and variety, try one of the large discount stores in town or the Maeil Food shop, 1185-37 Choryang 3-dong, Dong-gu, on the second floor of the Dongbu Goseok (Express) Bus Terminal.

For insam (ginseng) specifically, the Bujeon Insam Wholesale Shopping Center is your best bet for this dried root. Not only is it the largest ginseng market in the city, but the center has grown to include many other health foods. Expect to see a selection of dried mushrooms and other unidentifiable dried products. It’s open daily from 6am to 5:30pm. Take subway line 1 to Bujeon-dong (exit 5).

Worth a look is the Nampo-dong Dried Fish Market, located near the Jagalchi Seafood Market. You’ll see piles of squid jerky, dried seaweed, and other marine products being sold by dozens of street vendors.

Handmade Crafts

There is no dedicated area for handmade crafts, artworks, and antiques in Busan. To avoid the mass-produced and overpriced items found in souvenir shops, try the smattering of shops on the streets between Gwangbok-dong and Daecheong-no. You won’t discover any fabulous finds here, but they do have a large selection of traditional ceramics and pottery.

Although they’re expensive, you can get authentic traditional antiques at the Korean Antique Gallery Migodang ( 051/731-3444) in Haeundae. Take subway line 2 to Haeundae and walk about 10 minutes. The Yegwadang Gallery ( 051/752-3016) in Gwangalli has a nice collection of teapots and teacups made by modern craftsmen. Take bus no. 41 to the Seongshim Hospital or get off at the back entrance to the Sehwa Mart. The Busan Crafts & Exhibition Center ( 051/740-7588) on the first basement floor of BEXCO also has a decent selection of wooden crafts, ceramics, and lacquerware. The Busan Department Store (second floor), the Arirang Folk Art Center ( 051/245-6789), and the Hankook Folk Art Center ( 051/555-0092) also specialize in folk crafts and traditional wares.

Souvenirs

Most souvenir shops can be found in the shopping arcades of major hotels, inside department stores, and in the shopping areas of transportation hubs. You’ll find items more expensive than those in open-air markets and most of them are mass-produced. However, the items are usually of good quality, the shops take most major credit cards, and the sales staff can speak English.

Of special note is the Dalwoo Amethyst shop, 1-2, 2-ga, Gwangbok-dong, Jun-gu ( 051/243-8085), which specializes in all things made of amethyst or jade.

The Gonglee Art Creation store ( 051/516-6755), inside the Home Plus building in Yeonje-gu, has a variety of souvenirs made of wood, paper, mother-of-pearl, and metals.

Traditional & Open-Air Markets

The open-air markets of Busan are interesting places to look for hard-to-find items, to browse the crowded stalls, and to haggle with vendors for the best price.

In addition to the major markets listed below, there are a handful of o-il shijang (5-day markets) scattered through the city. The Jwacheon Market is a village shijang, with a fish and cattle market nearby (open on dates that end in 4 or 9). Near the Gupo and Deokcheon stations is the Gupo Market, another traditional shijang (open on dates that end in 3 or 8). The Gudeok Cultural Market, open Saturday and Sunday near the Gudeok Stadium, is a great place to buy traditional folk art and handicrafts.

Busanjin Shijang ★ MARKET Although there is a large cluster of clothing stores in Busan, this one caters to newlyweds. Here you can find everything a new bride needs for her wedding, especially her hanbok (Korean traditional outfit). It’s also a great place to buy fabric and silks. Open daily from 8am to 8:30pm. Take subway line 1 to Beomil-dong (exit 8) and walk about 5 min.

Gukje Shijang ★★ MARKET At the largest and oldest market in Busan, the vendors sell a variety of items—everything from food to industrial goods and clothes. Open daily from 9am to 8pm. Take subway line 1 to Jagalchi (exit 7) and walk about 10 min.

Jagalchi Shijang ★★★ MARKET South Korea’s largest seafood market, Jagalchi (roughly translates to “Pebble Village”) Market became mostly a fish market after the Korean War. Although you probably won’t be buying any fish to take home with you, this is a great place to see a variety of seafood you may have never seen before (most active early morning and late afternoon) and one of the best places to eat fresh raw fish, straight from the tanks. Since most of the vendors are middle-aged women, they are called the jagalchi ajumma. The Jagalchi Festival is held here every October. Open to wholesalers daily from 2am to midnight; regular retail hours are 7am to 9pm. Take subway line 1 to Nampo-dong Station and walk about 5 min. or to Jagalchi (exit 2) and walk 3 min. You can also take city bus no. 139, which will take you right to the market entrance. There is a paid parking lot that charges by the hour at the end of the street.

Pyeonghwa & Jayu Shingang MARKET A short walk from the Busanjin Market are the Pyeonghwa (Peace) and Jayu (Freedom) markets. These are great places to get designer shoes, though it’s harder to find larger sizes, since they cater to South Korean women’s smaller feet. The Jayu shijang, located on the first and second floors of the building, is open 8am to 6pm, while the Pyeonghwa shijang, on the third floor, is open daily from 6am to 6pm. Take subway line 1 to Beomil-dong (exit 8) and it’s about a 5-minute walk.

Entertainment & Nightlife

Busan is perhaps a more beautiful city at night than it is during the day. From the glittering neon of the shopping districts to the lights of Gwangalli Bridge, there is no shortage of things to see and do after the sun goes down. In fact, the city’s cafe and bar culture doesn’t come alive until dark.

Upscale bars and cocktail lounges are located in the city’s high-end hotels. Several other nightclubs and bars can be found throughout the city. More informal are the hofs (German-style beer bars) and pojang macha (neighborhood makgeolli and soju joints) where you can imbibe without breaking the bank. Most places with English-speaking owners can be found in Foreigners’ Street and the upscale hotels. A quieter evening can include a cup of coffee from one of Gwangalli’s many cafes, a stroll on the boardwalk in Haeundae, or a view of the city lights from Busan Tower.

Performing Arts

Opened in 1977, the Busan Cultural Center ★★ (Daeyeon 4-dong, Nam-gu) has since added several smaller theaters and performance spaces. It is connected to the Municipal Museum and the main stage can seat 1,600 people. Take subway line 2 to the Daeyeon-dong Station (exit 3 or 5), and then walk 10 minutes toward the U.N. intersection (past the Busan Museum). Take bus no. 51-1 to the center or bus no. 68 or 134 and get off at U.N. Park. Call 051/625-8130 for info on tickets and dates.

Movie Theaters

Nampo-dong is home to the Busan International Film Festival ( 1688-3010; www.biff.kr/structure/eng/default.asp), one of the largest film festivals in Asia. Usually held sometime in October, the BIFF is a showcase for not only domestically produced films, but also movies from international directors. The winners of the festival each year imprint their hands and feet on copper plates (similar to the prints in front of Grauman’s Chinese Theater in Hollywood). These copper plates can be seen all across the plaza. Even outside of festival times, the area is crowded with moviegoers of all ages. Unfortunately, South Korean films aren’t regularly subtitled (though they are for the festival), but you will be able to watch an English-language film here. Just be sure to make sure they aren’t dubbed screenings.

Dance Clubs & Bars

There is no shortage of bars in Busan, but only a few Western-style clubs for dancing, and the action doesn’t start until later on in the wee hours. Most dance clubs can be found in the PNU area or in the luxury hotels in Haeundae.

Be aware that if you go to a Korean-style bar or soju bang (literally, “soju room”), you’re expected to order an overpriced anju with your drinks. Also, they won’t let you in if you’re dressed down or look like you came straight from the beach. Koreans dress to impress when they go out. The exceptions are the foreigner-friendly bars, mostly near the universities (see below). Also, beware of the “girlie” or “go-go” bars on Texas Street, which will have Western-style or Russian music. Some of the women earn a commission on how many drinks they can get patrons to buy for them. They aren’t prostitutes but you can end up with an empty wallet, nevertheless.

Most places close around 2 or 4am, but a few are open well into sunrise. There are bars all over town, but the most popular areas include Nampo-dong, the PNU area, the Kyungsung University area, Haeundae, Gwangalli, and Seomyeon districts.

Haeundae

A popular bar owned by an Englishman is Starface ★( 051/742-0600) in Haeundae; open every night from 7pm to 4am, they have an all-you-can drink deal on Fridays for only ₩20,000. There is a pool table, solid fish and chips, and sometimes live bands in the early evening. Down the hill is Neo Starface, known for its weekly salsa lessons on Saturdays (from 8–9pm). They also have a good stage for the occasional live bands that play there.

A casual joint in the area is U2 Bar ( 070/8924-6811) a rock-’n’-roll club across the street from the Novotel. Just down the way at the Paradise Hotel is Club Elune ( 051/802-0555), which is a stop for international DJs after they’ve done Seoul. Across from the Paradise Hotel is another Western-style club, Club Maktum ( 051/742-0770; www.maktum.co.kr). You can’t miss the well-dressed partiers lining up in front of the giant silver phallic entrance.

A foreigner-friendly, late-night option for dancing is the Fuzzy Navel ( 051/746-6349) (every night 7pm–6am). It’s behind the Seacloud Hotel, on the right-hand side on the fourth floor (there are signs on the street level as well). The L-shaped bar has a main dance floor and other subrooms, one with a pool table.

For Western-style options, stop by Brother’s Bar and Grill ( 051/721-5589) on Mipo Street, on the basement level of the DalMaji Hotel. Open noon to 2am daily, the place is run by a PNU English professor who missed his nachos and margaritas.

Gwangalli

There are a few bars along the narrow beachfront with excellent views of the Gwangan Bridge. The Busan chain that serves good beer and cocktails, Thursday Party ( 051/758-0822), has a location here. For live jazz with the best view, head over to LunaBass ( 010/6807-1149; on the 5th floor above Holly’s Coffee), which also has DJs spinning and newer acts on Sundays.

Seomyeon

In the Seomyeon area, many foreigners head over to O’Brien’s Irish Bar and Restaurant (051/894-6541) for a pint and a burger. (They also have live music on Saturdays.) Take the subway to Gaya Station (exit 2), walk straight ahead, and you’ll find the bar on your left-hand side at the basement level.

Another popular nightspot in the neighborhood is Club Foxy ( 010/7648-1010). You’ll see a bunch of Korean hip-hop dancers on the two dance floors, which can be quite entertaining. Cover price is usually half-price for expats and women.

Another happening place is Guri Bar ( 010/6807-1149), located behind the Lotte Hotel and Club Fix ( 051/905-5777; www.clubfixkorea.info), with two levels of dancing on the 8th and 9th floors of Judys Tehwa. They’re open 24/7, but the real action happens when the guest DJs show up Friday and Saturday nights. Subway line 1 or 2 to Seomyeon Station.

PNU Area

The younger crowds head out to the bars near the universities. One of the oldest joints in the area is Soul Trane (open 8pm–7am) a small, foreigner-friendly bar located underneath Crossroads, another bar popular with expats and run by the same owner. They sometimes have open mic night on Thursdays. To get here from the main gate of Busan National U., make the first left and walk about 3 blocks. The bars will be on your left. Around the corner from Soul Trane is what used to be a popular bar, Moo Monk ( 051/517-5298; 416-1 Jangjeon 3(sam)-dong, Geumjeong-gu) but it has turned quieter as other more popular joints have opened up nearby. Still, the live bands on Saturdays bring in crowds. Across the street is a spacious jazz/blues/folk club, Interplay ( 011/873-2200). Many of the country’s top funk bands play here and it’s a good place to get imported beer if you’re tired of the weak Korean brews. Take the subway to the PNU Station (exit 3).

Bukyoung & Kyungsung University Area

Near Kyungsung University is a great place to dance and hear live music, the Vinyl Underground ( 051/628-0223). International DJs and live bands perform in front of a crowded dance floor on weekends. For a more “meet market” scene, follow the beats to the open terrace of Ghetto ( 010/4588-4697), where the dance floor is crowded and shots are cheap. A mellower place that also has friendly, English-speaking staff is Monk (named after Thelonious Monk, 051/622-2212; 53-34 Daeyeong 3(sam-dong, Nam-gu). They have regular local jazz bands on Tuesday and Thursday; live rock/blues/jazz bands on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday; and jams on Monday nights. Take subway line 2 to the Bukyoung/Kyungsung Station. Walk toward Bukyoung U. and turn left at the next-to-the-last street before you reach the entrance to the campus. The Monk Bar will be on your left, and make a left to get to Vinyl Underground (it’ll be on your left side).

Another great place to catch live music on weekends is Ol’ 55, located near Monk and Vinyl. They have an open mic on Wednesdays. Also in the same area is Thursday Party, which is a Busan-based chain of bars that serves draft beer and good cocktails. They have several other locations, including Gwangalli, Seomyeon, and one in Haeundae (on the main drag between the subway station and the beach). All of them are popular with foreigners.

Casinos

Like the majority of casinos in the country, the one in Busan is open only to foreigners. So don’t forget to bring your passport. They offer free food and drinks, so you won’t have to go hungry or thirsty while gambling the night away. The Paradise Casino, located inside the Paradise Hotel on Haeundae Beach, is the largest one in Busan (not difficult since it’s the only one in the city at the moment) and is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. They have blackjack tables, baccarat, roulette, slot machines, and more.