Chapter 11: Jeju-do (Jeju Island)

Jeju-do is a different kind of volcanic island, located 85km (53 miles) off the tip of the Korean Peninsula. Locals say that its three resources are wind, rocks, and women and you’ll get to enjoy all three during your visit. Waterfalls cascade into aqua waters and lava columns rise from the ocean’s depths. Its dramatic landscape is only rivaled by the open friendliness of the island’s people. Jeju-si (Jeju City), located on the north of the island, is where the airport and its major port is located. On the opposite side on the south, is Seogwipo, home to the major resorts and some of the main attractions—both natural and man-made. At the center is South Korea’s largest mountain, Hallsan, whose volcanic slopes take 8 hours to traverse (up and back).

The rest of the land is dotted with volcanic craters, dramatic caves, green horse pastures, and miles of beaches of all colors and shapes.

Known for its jeonbok jook (abalone porridge), some of the fresh seafood is caught by the haenyeo, local women, who venture into the depths using nothing but a mask, a wetsuit, and their own natural breathing techniques. A meal of hwae (raw fish) or a bubbling hot pot of seafood can be finished off with a handful of local tangerines or a cup of green tea grown on the island.

Jeju-do

Orientation

Arriving

By Plane

Jeju International Airport (CJU; 1688-5002; http://jeju.airport.co.kr/doc/jeju_eng) is located about 4km (2 1/2 miles) from Jeju City. The Jeju-do Tourist Information Center ( 064/742-6051) is on the first floor of the domestic terminal, in front of the arrival gates. There is also a Korean Tourism Organization (KTO) Information Center ( 064/742-0032) on the first floor of the international terminal, in front of the arrival gates. Both have helpful, English-speaking staff and provide maps, brochures, and hotel information.

Seventeen airlines fly in and out of Jeju-do, and three domestic airlines fly to Jeju from 13 cities, including Seoul’s Incheon (ICN) and Gimpo (GMP) airports, and Busan’s Gimhae Airport (PUS). Airlines making regular flights to Jeju-do include Korean Air ( 1588-2001; www.koreanair.com), Asiana Airlines, 2031, Yongdam 2-dong, Jeju-si ( 1588-8000;http://us.flyasiana.com), Jeju Air ( 1599-1500; www.jejuair.net), Jin Air ( 1600-6200; www.jinair.com), Air Busan ( 1666-3060; http://www.airbusan.com/AB/airbusan/english/main.jsp?loc=en), Eastar Jet ( 1544-0080; www.eastarjet.com), China Southern (www.flychinasouthern.com) China Eastern ( 02/518-0330; www.flychinaeastern.com), Japan Airlines (www.jal.co.jp/en), ANA (www.ana.co.jp/asw/wws/us/e), and Trans Asia Airways (www.tna.com.tw/en/index.aspx).

International flights from Japan and China depart less frequently. Each week, there are six flights from Tokyo, four from Osaka, three from Hong Kong, and two from Beijing. Since over 90% of visitors to the island come by air, they are planning a long-term expansion of the airport to be completed in 2020.

By Ferry

You can travel to and from Jeju-do via passenger ship from various ports in South Korea. The Jeju city harbor is the largest with three terminals; the first two are right next to each other and the third is about a kilometer down the road. Terminal 1 has boats to Busan, Incheon, and Mokpo. Terminal 2 has ferries to Wando and Yeosu, while the International Terminal 3 has services to Wando, Mokpo, and occasional trips to Japan. Although these are domestic boat rides, be sure to bring your passport.

The most popular way to arrive by boat, especially for those bringing their own cars or on organized tours, is from Jeolla-do’s Jangheung Harbor ( 1577-5820; www.jhferry.com, Korean only). The Orange Ferry leaves daily from Jangheung at 8:30 and 10:30am and returns from Jeju’s Seongsan Harbor at 12:30 and 5pm. The 2 1/2-hour ride starts at ₩29,500 per person one-way. Be sure to bring cash, since they can’t take foreign credit cards.

Overnight ferries from Busan’s Domestic Terminal leave around 7pm and arrive 11 hours later at 6am. The two different lines depart on alternating days, which means you can sail any day except Sunday. The Seolbong (Orient Star; 064/751-1901) is newer and cleaner than the Cozy Island ( 064/751-0300), which runs Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 7pm. The Seolbong, run by the Dongyang Express Ferry Co. ( 051/751-1901), has services Wednesday through Friday at 6:30pm. A second-class room (for three) will set you back around ₩55,000, but it’s worth it if you plan on getting a good night’s rest. If you want to slum it in third class for ₩39,000, you’ll have to sleep in a large room with at least 10 other people (bring your own sleeping bag and mat). On the other hand, if you want to splurge, book a private VIP room for ₩170,000. Call to check current rates and schedules. You can catch the return trip from the Jeju City Terminal 1 at 7pm for another 11 hours back to Busan.

From Incheon Ferry Terminal, the Ohamana ferry leaves at 5pm and arrives in Jeju-do around 8:30am. Boats run Monday through Saturday, not on Sundays. The return trip to Incheon also starts at 5pm from Jeju-do. Fares start at around ₩63,500 for third class, but you may want to pay the extra fees to upgrade to second or first class.

You can also get a ferry from the Mokpo Ferry Terminal ( 061/240-6060). Service is available daily on the Pink Dolphin costing ₩49,650 for a 3+ hour trip. It leaves Mokpo at 2pm and departs Jeju-do at 9:30am. The Queen Mary costs ₩25,800 to ₩88,800 and leaves Mokpo at 9am daily and arrives in Jeju around 1:20pm.There’s no Sunday service for the Car Ferry Rainbow, which sails from Mokpo Monday through Saturday at 2:30pm and arrives in Jeju at 7:20pm. The ferry leaves Jeju at 8am and arrives back on Mokpo at 12:50pm. There are no ferries on Sunday or Tuesday.

Service to and from Wando Ferry Terminal ( 061/554-4207) is available daily (though the car ferry doesn’t run Sundays). The ferry from Wando, which starts at 7:30am, costs ₩24,000 for adults, ₩12,000 for children. Most rides last about 3 hours.

Other than destinations listed above, you can also travel to Udo, Sangchujado, and Hachujado from the Jeju Ferry Terminal.

With all of these ferries, you can just buy a ticket the day you leave, but book in advance if you’re traveling during the popular summer months or Chuseok. Be sure to bring your passport and plenty of cash, since not all of the services can take foreign credit cards. Schedules are subject to change, especially during inclement weather.

Getting into Town The Airport Limousine Bus ( 064/713-7000) from Jeju Airport can be found outside gate 1 (turn left). The Limousine Bus no. 600 costs ₩3,500 to Jungmun and ₩5,000 to Seogwipo (half-price for children) and stops at all the major tourist hotels, ending at Seogwipo’s KAL Hotel. Service runs 6:20am until 9:50pm, every 15 minutes. Regular buses from the airport include numbers 100, 200, 300, and 500 (to Jeju City Hall) and are cheaper than the limousine bus, starting at ₩1,000.

If you’d like to rent a car (which is the most convenient way to get around the island), all of the rental car agencies have desks right next to each other on the first floor of the airport, right outside of the domestic flight exit. Avis car rental ( 064/749-3773), Geumho Rent-a-Car 064/743-8107), and Jeju rental car are the largest.

There are two taxi stands at the airport. The short-distance one goes to Jeju-si, Aeweol, Hallim, Jocheon, and Gimnyeong, while the long-distance taxis go to Seogwipo, Jungmun resort, Bukjeju county, Namjeju county, and other areas. On average, a taxi from the airport to Seogwipo will cost approximately ₩30,000 and last about an hour. Expect to pay 20% extra after midnight.

Visitor Information

Jeju-do Tourist Association Information Center ( 064/742-6051; daily 6:30am–8pm) is located at the airport in front of the arrival gate on the first floor of the domestic terminal, where you can get free Internet access (the airport has Wi-Fi, but you have to pay for it). You can find the KTO Tourist Info Center ( 064/742-0032; daily 6:30am–8pm) there as well.

There are also tourist information centers, all open daily, at the Jeju-si Ferry Terminal ( 064/758-7181; 6:30am–8pm), the Yongduam Rock ( 064/728-3918; 9am–8pm) parking lot, Jeju-si Intercity Bus Terminal ( 064/753-1153; 9am–8pm), Jeju-si Underground Mall ( 064/750-7595; 9am–6pm), Jemu Folk Village ( 064/755-5959; 9am–6pm), Tap-dong Outdoor Performance Hall ( 064/ 728-3919; 9am–6pm), inside Jeju City Hall ( 064/735-3544; 9am–6pm), at the Seogwipo Bus Terminal ( 064/739-1391), in front of Manjang Cave ( 064/784-2387), Seongsn Ilchulbong ( 064/784-0959), Hallim Park ( 064/796-8577), and in Sanbangsan ( 064/730-1549).

Be sure to get a map of Jeju-do and a current bus schedule, if you’re planning to travel by bus; buses run infrequently and on irregular schedules. You can find one on the Jeju-do travel website at http://eng.tour2jeju.net.

Getting Around

Jeju-do isn’t as small as you might think. Most people book at least 3 days and 2 nights to get a general overview of the island, since most tourist locations are about an hour from Jeju City. Jeju-do is best explored by car or taxi, if you’re not on a strict budget. Driving is relatively easy, since traffic is minimal and roads are easily marked. If you reserve a car in advance online, you can usually get better rates. All the rental car agencies have desks at the airport and provide a free shuttle service. Easier and even cheaper than renting a car is to get a tour taxi for the day.

Buses are available but infrequent, and require the exact fare, making it important to carry a pocketful of ₩1,000 bills wherever you go. There is no rail or subway system on the island.

Jeju trolley Tour Bus

Don’t be fooled by the name, since this tour is neither a trolley nor a limousine (as sometimes referenced), but rather a climate-controlled bus. It’s a comfortable way to get an overview of the island, especially if you’re on a tight schedule. There are two courses: one that tours the east side of the island and another that goes around the west side of the island, including Seogwipo. Both courses start between 8:30 and 9:30am from the island’s major hotels. The eastern course includes Seong-eup Folk Village, Manjang Cave, and Seopjikoji, a scenic peak where many movies have been filmed. The eastern course has an option to see a Mongolian horseback riding show for an additional ₩12,000 (₩9,000 for kids). The western course covers the Psyche World and Crystal Palace (butterfly theme garden), and Cheonjieon Waterfalls, with an option to ride the Seogwipo “Romantic Cruise”) for an additional ₩15,000. Both courses end around 6pm at the airport. You must make reservations at least a day in advance by calling 1544-4118 or http://tbus.co.kr/english/index.php. A 1-day pass costs ₩35,000 adults, ₩28,000 children, and 2-day passes are ₩55,000 adults, ₩44,000 children, including lunch, but not the suggested ₩10,000 tip for the driver. Tours don’t run December through March.

By Car Renting a car is the easiest and best way to get around Jeju-do. The island’s destinations are clearly marked in English and some of the remote places are difficult to access by bus alone. You can take your pick from among the following reputable agencies: Jeju Rent a Car ( 064/742-3307), Kumho Rent a Car ( 064/743-8107), Avis Rent a Car ( 064/749-3773), and Jeju Rental Car Service Association ( 064/747-4301). There are other rental-car agencies in Jeju-do, but those above are all available at the airport. Advance reservations aren’t necessary, but you’ll get a better rate and a guarantee of a car, especially during summer high season or national holidays. Rental-car information desks are all next to each other at the airport (on the first floor of the domestic terminal) Tip: If you’re staying at one of the resort hotels, it’s best to rent a car at the hotel’s rental office, since they usually offer 50% discounts to guests.

You have to be at least 21, have been driving for at least a year, and have both your International Driving Permit and your passport with you in order to rent a car ( of chapter 12). You can get free maps at either the car-rental company or the tourist information desk at the airport. All the rental-car companies have comparable prices (Avis is a little pricier but their employees speak better English), starting at ₩76,000 for a small compact, ₩117,000 for a midsize car, and ₩250,000 for an SUV. The per-day rates get lower the longer you rent and during off-season weekdays.

The maximum speed limit on Jeju highways is 80kmph (50 mph), but most roads are 50kmph to 60kmph (31–37 mph). As on the mainland, the roads have high-tech cameras ready to catch you speeding, so be careful.

By Taxi Getting around by taxi is easier in Jeju-do than other parts of the country, since there is comparably little traffic (except a bit in the evenings). Tour taxis are popular among South Korean honeymooners, since they get a driver and tour guide, all in one. It may be a good option for you too if you don’t want to drive, but still want access to out-of-the way scenic destinations (although most taxi drivers speak limited English, if at all). The good thing about Jeju-do’s taxis are that they are all the same price, with base fares starting at ₩2,900 and going up ₩100 every 213m (1⁄8 mile).The night fare (midnight–4am) is 20% more. If you decide to use a tour taxi, it will cost about ₩100,000 to ₩150,000 per day (plus lunch for the driver). You can negotiate with the taxi driver to try to get a better rate and determine your route before committing.

By Bus The bus system is reliable, but infrequent; the buses do travel to most tourist destinations, but some (like the Manjang Caves) will require an additional bit of walking or hiking on your part. Most bus routes radiate from terminals in Jeju City or Seogwipo, covering most of the island, with services every hour or so. Be sure you get a copy of the current bus schedules at the tourist information center or the bus terminal in Jeju-si. The Jeju Bus Information System ( 064/710-6278; http://bus.jeju.go.kr/internet_eng) provides route info, but does not give a detailed schedule.

There are two buses that run on Highway 12, which circumnavigates the island. One bus starts at Jeju-si and goes to Seogwipo via Seongsan (going east), while the other starts at Jeju-si and goes to Seogwipo via Hallim (going west). They both start running at 5:40am and run every hour until 9pm. Regular bus fare is ₩1,000 adults, ₩800 for junior high school students, ₩400 for elementary school kids. You can get additional info on the intercity buses by calling 064/753-1153 for Jeju-si and 064/739-1391 for Seogwipo-si.

By Bike Outside of Jeju City and Seogwipo, biking is common. In fact, there is a continuous bike lane on both sides of Highway 12. Cycling the entire 182km (113 miles) will take about 3 to 5 days, depending on your skill level. Some shore roads also have bike lanes, but many of them aren’t continuous and are inconvenient. Rentals are around ₩6,000 to ₩10,000 per day, most with a minimum 3-day rental, plus an additional ₩3,000 for a helmet. Bikes are available at the airport, the Jeju Ferry Terminal, near the Jeju-si Bus Terminal, Yongduam (Dragon Head Rock), Seogwipo, Hyeopje Beach, and other beachfronts. Hiking Jeju ( 064/721-4802; www.hikingjejudo.co.kr, Korean only) is a reliable rental company with several locations.

You can also rent a scooter or motorcycle. In Gu-Jeju (“Old” Jeju), there is a motorbike shop where the owner, Mr. Lee, speaks English well, Keumsung Motorcycle/Mr. Lee’s Bike Shop, open Monday to Saturday 9am to 8pm (2452 Ora 1(il)-dong, Jeju-si 064/758-6640; http://www.jejubike.co.kr/eng/index.html). Scooter rentals start at ₩20,000 per day and motorbikes start at ₩30,000 per day.

Jeju-do

Banks, Foreign Exchange & ATMs Normal banking hours are Monday to Friday 9am to 4pm. There are currency exchange bureaus at the airport and inside major hotels. ATMs can be found all over the island, but look for the Global logo, since those are the most foreigner-friendly. ATMs in department stores are usually the most user-friendly.

Business Hours Most businesses open from 9am to 6pm Monday to Friday. Shops are generally open 9am to 10pm Monday through Saturday, while most offices and government buildings are open 9am to 4:40pm on weekdays.

Doctors & Dentists Most first-class hotels can refer you to a doctor or dentist, though very few speak English well. In an emergency, dial 119 or call one of the recommendations under “Hospitals,” below.

Hospitals Those with English-speaking doctors and 24-hour emergency care include Halla Medical Center, 1963-2 Yon-dong, Jeju City ( 064/740-5000); Cheju National University Hospital, 690-716, 3-do 2-dong, Jeju City ( 064/717-1114); and the Seogwipo Medical Center, 1530-2 Dongheung-dong, Seogwipo-si ( 064/730-3106). Hot Lines Tourist information is available in English by dialing ( 1330). For directory assistance in English, dial 00794.

Internet Access Most high-end tourist hotels, love motels, and even some hostels have Internet access, but if yours doesn’t you can use one of the PC bahngs (PC rooms) in Jeju-si or Seogwipo for about ₩1,000 to ₩1,500 per hour.

Newspapers The Jeju Weekly (www.jejuweekly.com) is an English-language paper, and two English-language daily newspapers, Korean Herald (www.koreaherald.co.kr) and The Korea Times (http://times.hankooki.com), are available on the island.

Pharmacies There are no 24-hour drugstores in Jeju-do. However, most pharmacies are located in Jeju-si or Seogwipo, displaying a large green cross symbol or the Korean word for medicine (약). Convenience stores and a few stores in luxury hotel lobbies are open around the clock and carry simple remedies like aspirin.

Police Dial 112 for the police; although their English will be limited, they will assist you. Police stations are clearly marked in English.

Post Offices There are 40 post offices and 21 postal agencies in Jeju-do, open Monday through Friday 9am to 5pm. The Jeju City post office and the Seogwipo post office are also open Saturday 9am to 1pm. If you have questions, or want to find the nearest post office, call 064/739-4503.

Weather Call the Korean Tourism Organization at 1330 or 131 for the latest weather (especially useful for planning ferry excursions).

Where to Stay

Jeju-do is popular among honeymooners and Japanese on their holidays, which means that hotel prices are higher here than on the mainland, especially during the summer high season and during Lunar New Year and Chuseok. If you’re planning to visit during those times, be sure to make reservations well in advance. Weekend prices are a bit higher, too. Luxury accommodations are centered in Jeju-si and Seogwipo (which is home to the newer, more modern resorts), but there are plenty of lower-end minbak (private homestays), motels, and pensions scattered throughout the island. The condo-style pensions can be reserved in advance, but the minbak generally operate on a walk-in basis—again, not a problem except during high season.

Jeju-Si

Expensive

Jeju KAL Hotel Rising 18 stories above the center of Jeju City, this hotel is run by Korean Airlines. Although it’s not located right on the water, a handful of the rooms have ocean views, so ask for one when booking. The beds are hard and the rooms bare, but they all have down comforters. You can also opt for a traditional ondol room. In addition to courteous service, the hotel has a sky bar on the top floor. Its sister location in Seogwipo is more upscale.

1691-9 Yido 1-dong, Jeju-si. http://english.kalhotel.co.kr. 064/724-2001. Fax 064/720-6515. 282 units. ₩280,000 and up standard room. 10% VAT and 10% service charge not included. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; lounge; cafe; indoor pool; health club; spa; sauna; bakery/deli; karaoke; casino; Internet. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, safe.

Ramada Plaza Jeju ★★ Located just minutes from the airport, this “floating” hotel is literally right on the water. Built with 100% investment funds from the Korean Teachers Credit Union, the nine-story building’s design was inspired by luxury cruise ships. More Western-style rooms are available, but there are also ondol rooms and kids’ suites (that have separate rooms with bunk beds, toys, TV, and gaming devices to keep the children occupied). You can choose between mountain- and oceanview rooms (for ₩40,000 more).

1255, Samdo 2-dong, Jeju-si. www.ramadajeju.co.kr. 064/729-8100. Fax 064/729-8554. 380 units. ₩280,000 single/double; ₩320,000 and up suite. 10% VAT and 10% service charge not included. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants; 2 bars; lounge; cafe; indoor/outdoor pool; fitness center; spa; sauna; concierge; yoga; aerobics; bakery; karaoke; casino; seminar room; Internet. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, hair dryer, safe, Wi-Fi.

Moderate

Jeju Pacific Hotel Conveniently located in central Jeju City, this triangular and vaguely Egyptian-themed building offers rooms with ocean and mountain views. The rooms are comfortable and clean, but dated. This older hotel offers both Western-style and ondol rooms, but no specifically non-smoking rooms. Unfortunately, the staff’s English is not so great and their sauna is available only to men.

159-1 Young Dam, 1-dong, Jeju-si. www.jejupacific.co.kr. 064/758-2500. Fax 064/758-2521. 177 units. ₩100,000 and up single or double; ₩280,000 and up suite. 10% VAT and service charge not included. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; lounge; cafe; health club; sauna (men only); concierge; airport transfers; karaoke; casino. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, hair dryer, Internet.

Inexpensive

Jeju Marina Hotel ★ Although the staff’s English is not so great, they’ll make up for it in service and hospitality. The location is not near the coast, but there are some shops and bars within walking distance. You’ll find simple and spotless rooms here, along with a nice array of facilities, especially for a hotel in this price range.

300-8, Yen-dong, Jeju-si. www.jejumarinahotel.co.kr. 064/746-6161. Fax 064/746-6170. 80 units. ₩80,000–₩120,000 single or double; ₩145,000 suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; lounge; cafe; shuttle service; karaoke; Internet. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.

Seogwipo

Expensive

Haevichi Hotel & Resort ★★ Luxury accommodations within a stone’s throw of the Jeju Folk Village. The English-speaking staff are polite and helpful. Both hotel-style and condo-style rooms are available, so be sure to check which room you’re booking. Hotel rooms are more expensive but nicer, while the resort rooms are good for families, since they have kitchenettes and separate rooms for the kids. They provide complimentary shuttles to/from the airport. Ask for an oceanview room, if you want a nice view from your balcony.

40-69 Pyeseon-li, Pyoseon-myeon, Seogwipo. www.haevichi.com/eng. 064/780-8000. 288 units. ₩220,000 and up single/double. 10% VAT and 10% service charge not included. DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; deli/cafe; indoor/outdoor pools; golf course; fitness center; spa; Jacuzzi; games room; business center; concierge; massage; babysitting; laundry; bakery; karaoke; convenience store; safe. In room: A/C, TV w/DVD player, minibar, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer, balcony, Wi-Fi.

Hyatt Regency Jeju ★★ This resort hotel is located in an ideal spot, right on Jungmun Beach—it’s the closest hotel to the beach in the area. Although it’s one of the older ones around, it’s still very clean and elegant in an understated way. The outdoor pool is nicer than the indoor one (especially since it includes a swim-up bar), but is usually closed in the off season. Mountain- or oceanview rooms are available, with the ocean views costing a bit more (around ₩50,000) and including very nice balconies. All rooms come with two beds with feather duvets, and they are the typical Korean-style hard mattresses. The service is fantastic, and not at all overwhelming.

3039-1 Saekdal-dong, Seogwipo. http://jeju.regency.hyatt.com. 800/492-8804 in the U.S. or Canada, or 064/733-1234. Fax 064/732-2039. 224 units. ₩186,000–₩472,000 twin or king room. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants; 2 bars; lounge; pool; health club; spa; concierge; babysitting; bakery/deli; casino. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, hair dryer, Internet (fee).

Jeju Lotte Hotel ★★★ Lotte’s Jeju location is probably the best of the bunch. Supposedly modeled after the Palace of the Lost City resort in South Africa, the grounds are expansive and well manicured. The Las Vegas-type water show draws a crowd, but is a bit cheesy. The restaurants are worthy of the hotel, but still pricey. It’s a bit farther from the ocean than the Hyatt, but still within walking distance. Both Western-style beds and ondol rooms are available—ask for one with an ocean view. The rooms are very spacious and comfortable with comfortable bathrooms, complete with warming toilets.

2812-4, Saekdal-dong, Seogwipo. www.lottehotel.com. 064/731-1000. Fax 064/738-7305. 500 units. ₩272,000–₩420,000 single or double. 10% VAT not included. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants; bar; lounge; pool; tennis court; health club; sauna; concierge; room service; babysitting; smoke-free rooms. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Internet.

The Shilla Jeju ★★★ Inside the Jungmun Resort complex, this high-end hotel is ideal for both business and leisure travelers looking for a peaceful retreat in Jeju-do. Convenient for nearby attraction, the rooms are spacious and comfortable. The grounds are nicely maintained and they even provide tents in the garden for a camping out experience in the summer. The English-speaking staff are beyond polite. Ask for an oceanview room if you want to fall asleep to the sound of the waves below.

3039-3 Saekdal-dong, Seogwipo. www.shilla.net/en/jeju/index.jsp. 1588-1142. Fax 064/735-5415. 429 units. ₩290,000 and up single/double. 10% VAT and 10% service charge not included. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurants; bar; lobby lounge; cafe; indoor/outdoor pools; tennis court; fitness center; Jacuzzi; sauna; business center; shopping arcade; concierge; massage; babysitting; laundry/dry cleaning; salon; karaoke; casino. In room: A/C, satellite TV, minibar, fridge, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer, safe, electric kettle, balcony, slippers, bathrobe.

Moderate

Little France Hotel ★★ Don’t be fooled by the name, because there’s nothing French about this place. The modern-looking building belies the cozy rooms inside. There are four types of rooms (listed from least expensive to most): The modern room, oriental, antique, and the royal classic. All rooms have double beds only and are artfully decorated with decidedly feminine touches. Bathrooms are clean, but have showers only. The amicable owners will even pick you up from the airport, if you make arrangements in advance.

486-1 Seogwi-dong, Seogwipo-si. www.littlefrancehotel.co.kr. 064/732-4552 or 732-4662. 30 units. ₩80,000–₩110,000 double during high season (late July to Aug) but cheaper the rest of the year; there is a ₩10,000 discount for single travelers. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; cafe; tea shop. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer.

Inexpensive

Shinsung Hotel ★ This is an inexpensive spot with clean rooms and a central location in Seogwipo. Although the rooms on the second floor are the cheapest, you can get a computer and Internet access if you get a room on the third or fourth floors for just ₩10,000 more. Both bed and ondol rooms are available, but it’s a bit inconvenient for buses.

637-2 Seogwi-dong, Seogwipo-si. 064/732-1415. Fax 064/732-1417. 34 units. ₩50,000 standard room; ₩130,000 suite. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Lobby lounge; driving range. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer.

Tae Gong Gak Inn & Guesthouse ★★★ You’ll get to experience the friendliness and hospitality of Jeju folk firsthand through this guesthouse’s owners, who are happy to give directions and travel advice. An affordable place to sleep in the Seogwipo area, it’s conveniently located near Cheonjiyeon falls. They provide free breakfast and Wi-Fi in the shared kitchen area.

823-1 Seogwi-dong, Seogwipo-si. www.lepotel.kr. 064/7762-2623. Fax 064/762-2625. 50 beds, 15 units. ₩40,000 and up. MC, V. Amenities: Shared kitchen; laundry; tangerine orchard; outdoor grills; Internet. In room: A/C, TV, minifridge. Take limousine bus #600 from the airport.

Outside the Cities

Expensive

Ocean Grand Hotel Located near the ocean, overlooking Hamdeok Beach and the mountains nearby, this eight-story building has a modern lobby. The rooms aren’t huge but they are clean and have balconies. Both Western-style rooms and ondol rooms are available, with the latter being a bit less expensive, if you don’t mind sleeping on the floor.

1252-55 Hamdeok-li, Jocheon-eup, Bukjeju-gun. www.oceangrand.co.kr. 064/783-0007 or 02/584-2345 from Seoul. Fax 064/783-7133. 80 units. ₩193,600 standard room; ₩160,000 double ondol room; ₩255,000 and up suite. AE, MC, V. From Jeju International Airport, take intercity bus no. 702. The hotel is located on Hamdeok Beach. The hotel offers free airport pickup, but you must make arrangements in advance. Amenities: 2 restaurants; cafe; smoke-free rooms. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, hair dryer, Internet.

Moderate

IGH Pension ★ Located on the western shore of the island, this pension has condo-style accommodations and two properties. One is especially marketed toward couples on their honeymoon while the other is good for families or groups traveling together. With convenient kitchenettes, the spacious apartment-style accommodations have large windows that face the ocean. Beds are comfortable and set on the usual Korean ondol flooring. Most of the bathrooms have spacious tubs. Not your sandy beach-type resort, the “pension” is on a rocky beach. Located away from the major city, it’s a secluded getaway from the touristy parts of the island. The only drawback is you’ll need a car and good directions in order to get here.

641 beonji, Geumdong-li, Hangyeong-myeon, Bukjeju-gun. www.igh.co.kr. 064/772-3340 or 011/9664-3340. 11 units. ₩80,000–₩100,000 standard room; ₩120,000 and up condo-style accommodations. AE, MC, V. Amenities: boat rental. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, kitchenette, hair dryer.

Jazz Maeul (Jazz Village) ★★★ You might wonder about the name, but you’ll understand once you arrive and hear the soft jazz music being piped outside the buildings. This “pension” is located just a few miles outside of Seogwipo and is especially convenient if you plan on renting a car (though the taxi ride is fairly short and inexpensive). Staying here is a lot like renting an apartment—there are two-story spaces complete with kitchenettes, balconies, and loft. They also have hotel-style rooms without kitchens for less. Facilities are great for traveling families and there’s even an open-air cinema with movies showing once a week during the summer.

2849 Sangye-dong, Seogwipo. www.jazzvillage.co.kr. 064/738-9300. Fax 064/746-6170. 50 units. ₩90,000 standard room, ₩220,000 condo style suite. AE, MC, V. From Seogwipo, take Hwy. 12, and it’s on the right side just before you get to the junction to road 95. Amenities: 2 pools; badminton courts; bikes; Internet. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, kitchenette, hair dryer, dining table.

Napoli Guesthouse ★★ Located near the convention center, this pension has apartment-type facilities, but also offers shared beds for a bargain price. Conveniently located near Seogwipo, they even serve you breakfast for free. Check in after 2pm.

2065-beonji, Daepo-dong, Seogwipo. www.jejunapoli.com. 064/738-4820. ₩20,000 per bed, or ₩120,000 for a double. MC, V. Amenities: Bikes; playground; BBQ grills; Internet. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, kitchenette, hair dryer, dining table.

Inexpensive

Poonglim Guesthouse ★ This cozy guesthouse has dorm-style beds in a comfortable setting. Shared bathroom and kitchen. The friendly owner will make you breakfast, if you request it in advance. Make advance reservations since spaces fill up quickly.

2677 Gangjeong-dong, Seogwipo. jazz064@naver.com. 064/739-9001. 24 units. ₩25,000 per person. No credit cards. Take the limousine bus from the airport. Amenities: Shared kitchen. In room: A/C, TV.

Where to Eat

Since this is South Korea’s largest island, Jeju-do is well known for its hwae (raw fish) but adventurous eaters can try the local sea bream or the sea urchin. Other local specialties include galchi (hairtail fish) and jeonbok (abalone), which used to be so prized it was reserved only for royalty. No more. Now it is made into jook (porridge), eaten raw, or added to a variety of other dishes. Heuk dwaeji (pork from native black pigs) and pheasant are also local specialties. A holdover from the island’s Mongolian days is bing ddeok (rice cakes) made with buckwheat and radish instead of rice, which are quite bland. Give it a try, but it may take a couple of tastings before you appreciate its very subtle flavor.

Nearly all of the luxury hotels serve Western cuisine, if you must have an overpriced and not so delicious hamburger. Otherwise, your best bet is to go for the local offerings, which may not be in gourmet settings, but which are generally delicious.

If you’re looking for an ocean view and extremely fresh seafood, head for the restaurants along the shores of Jeju-si, which attract crowds of tourists and locals with their straight-out-of-the-water offerings and live performances. The haenyeoui jip, which translates to “house of women divers,” are seaside restaurants run by the haenyeo themselves. Most of them are found along the coast, near major tourist attractions, and feature abalone jook, octopus, sea cucumbers, and other fresh seafood on their menus. There are locations in Seopjikoji, Jungmun Beach, Seongsan, and Sehwa. You can also see the female divers selling their freshly caught wares at stands in Yongduam or Jungmun Beach.

For less expensive fare, head to Gogiguksu Golmok (Pork Noodle Alley) across from the Jeju Culture and Arts Center.

Jeju City

Dalgrak Italian Stone Pizza ★ ITALIAN On an island where even a good hamburger is hard to find, it’s worth visiting this hidden treasure for a slice of thin-sliced goodness, at this friendly joint behind Jeju Jeil High School. The oven takes center stage in this rustic space, where a spicy “house” sauce accompanies the pizza pies.

748-3 Nohyeong-dong, Jeju-si. 064/713-7483. Entrees ₩13,000 and up. MC, V. Open Tues–Sun 11:30am–11pm.

Donjigae Hwaejib ★ KOREAN SEAFOOD Visiting businessmen and tourists alike come here for the fresh offerings, not the stark atmosphere. A great place for fresh hwae, this joint is on the western side of the city. Although their specialty is raw fish, their grilled godeung-uh (mackerel) is pretty tasty, too.

2618-11 Dodu 1-dong, Jeju-si. 064/742-5200. Hwae jeongshik (raw fish meal) ₩25,000 and up. MC, V. Daily 10:30am–10:30pm. Small parking lot.

Samdae Gooksu Hwegwan ★★ KOREAN NOODLES Located in Gogigooksu Alley, they serve Japanese style noodles swimming in a pork broth, as well as the local delicacy, pig’s feet.

1046-12 Ildo-dong, Jeju-si. 064/759-6644. Entrees ₩6,000–₩12,000. MC, V. Daily 10am–6am.

Seongsanpo Halmangjip ★ KOREAN SEAFOOD Specializing in local seafood dishes, like jeonbok jook (abalone porridge), sora muchim (spicy conch mixed with vegetables), the fresh catch is brought in from the family’s women divers.

4090-8 Hwabuk 1(il)-dong, Jeju-si. 064/725-1525. Entrees ₩10,000–₩15,000. MC, V. Mon–Sat 10am–8pm.

Yeonoonae KOREAN VEGETARIAN Known for their vegetarian bibimbap (mixed rice bowl), this inviting restaurant has a limited menu, but tasty dishes. Try the gamja buchim (potato pancakes) or the nokcha deulggae sujebi (dough flake soup with green tea and perilla-seed broth). Perfect for vegetarians or anyone looking for an inexpensive meal in a cozy environment. Both floor and chair seating are available, but no English is spoken.

Across from the entrance to the Halla Arboretum, Yeon-dong, Jeju-si. 064/712-5646. Entrees ₩4,000–₩6,000. No credit cards. Daily 9:30am–9pm. From Jeju-si, take the bus bound for Jeju Agriculture High School.

Seogwipo

Expensive

Keun Gaetmul Hwaejib ★★ JAPANESE SUSHI In the middle of Daepohang Hwae Town, this sushi restaurant is expensive but worth every last penny. To get the best view of the ocean, ask for a table on the second floor. With probably the freshest fish in town, their hwae comes with more side dishes than you’ll be able to finish. Everything comes in several courses with sliced raw fish and spicy hot pot at the end, so make sure you have time for a leisurely meal.

496-8 Daepo-dong, Seogwipo-si. 064/738-1625. Reservations not necessary. Modeum hwae (raw fish combination) ₩80,000–₩170,000. AE, MC, V. Daily 6pm–2am (last order 10:30pm). Closed Lunar New Year and Chuseok.

Seong-eup Chilshimli Jumak ★★ KOREAN TRADITIONAL Near the Seong-eup Folk Village, this restaurant is well known for its barbecued black pig. For many years, this thatched-roof joint has been serving up some of the best local cuisine around. Don’t miss the pheasant potato noodles—they boil the pheasant bones for 24 hours. Their homemade makgeolli (milky rice wine) in itself is worth a special trip.

496-8 Daepo-dong, Seogwipo-si. 064/787-0911. Set menu ₩43,000. MC, V. Daily 9am until the last customer leaves (but usually until 8pm). Closed Lunar New Year and Chuseok. Off Hwy. 16 and road 97. Plenty of parking available.

Moderate

Daeyoo Land Sikdang ★ KOREAN PHEASANT Located inside the Jeju-do hunting grounds, this restaurant specializes in all things pheasant. Try the pheasant shabu shabu (boiled pheasant, very popular with Japanese tourists), the naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles), buchingae (flatcakes), or even the pheasant dumplings. If you want to splurge, you can go for the multicourse menu, while dining in a distinctly hunting lodge-like environment, complete with wooden paneling and rock walls. The staff speak English and Japanese.

144 Sangye-dong, Seogwipo-si. 064/738-0500. www.daeyooland.net (very little English). Entrees ₩7,000–₩13,000; set menus ₩30,000–₩50,000. AE, MC, V. Daily 9am–6pm (until 9pm with reservations). From Seogwipo, take Hwy. 12 to Jungmun Gwangwang Danji, or call for the Daeyoo Land shuttle bus.

Geumho Garden ★ KOREAN BARBECUE You’ll forget the dated decor once you start eating the heuk dweji (pork from native black pigs) barbecue at this Jeju standard. You can also have beef to cook on your tabletop grill, or just get the haemul ddukbaegi (seafood in a stone pot). The staff speak English and Japanese.

259-4 Gangjeong-dong, Seogwipo-si. 064/739-3333. Entrees ₩8,000–₩14,000. MC, V. Daily 10am–10pm. Closed Lunar New Year and Chuseok. Parking available. Close to the World Cup Stadium going toward the Jungmun Resort Complex.

Sehwali Haenyeoi Jip ★★★ KOREAN SEAFOOD At one of the few joints run directly by the women divers (haenyeo), you can taste fresh jeonbok jook (abalone porridge), haemul pajeon (seafood flatcakes), and other specialties directly from the divers themselves. Not only will you be getting some of the freshest fish on the island, you’ll be directly supporting an endangered art.

191 Sehwa-li, Pyoseon-myeon, Seogwipo-si. 064/787-4917. www.womandiver.com. Reservations not necessary. Entrees ₩12,000 and up. MC, V. Daily 10am–10pm. On the coast off Hwy. 1132, not too far from the Jeju Folk Museum.

Seong-eup Chilshimli Jumak ★ KOREAN TRADITIONAL They roast their black pig the slow, old-fashioned way, over a wood fire. They also have your choice of set menus, if you’re feeling extra hungry.

580 Seon-eup-li, Pyoseon-myeon, Seogwipo. 064/787-0911. Entrees ₩14,000 and up, set menu ₩36,000 and up. MC, V. Daily 9am–8pm.

Inexpensive

Gamgyul Jjimbbang ★★ KOREAN SNACK At the entrance to Cheonjiyeon falls is this tiny stand where the friendly Mr. Bak serves his brand jjimbbang (steamed buns) made from local mandarin oranges (“gamgyul”). Filled with tangerine jam or a combination of the jam and pot (sweet red-bean paste), these steamed delights are a nice treat to have on the way to see the falls.

2-3 Namseongjung-ro, Seogwipo-si. 064/733-2900. Buns 3 for ₩3,000. No credit cards. Daily 8am–9pm.

Hang-gu Shikdang ★ KOREAN SEAFOOD Located right across from the water, this hwae joint serves up fresh seafood without breaking the bank. On cold days, you might enjoy the spicy seafood hot pot while watching the fishermen bring in their boats.

Moseulpo, Seogwipo-si. 064/794-2254. Entrees ₩9,000 and up. No credit cards. Wed–Mon 9am–9pm.

Hwasoon Jungnang Galbi ★ KOREAN BARBECUE This galbi (short ribs) restaurant specializes in pork barbecue at a bargain price. You can also get naengmyeon or dwenjang jjigae (fermented soybean paste hot pot), if you’re feeling particularly adventurous.

243-3 Donggwang-li, Andeok-myeon, Seogwipo-si. 064/794-8954. Reservations not necessary. Entrees ₩5,000–₩7,000. AE, MC, V. Daily noon–10pm. Located right across the street from the Andeok Junior High School, just east of the Hwasoon Sageoli (4-way).

Outside the Cities

Moderate

O’Sulloc Tea Museum & Café ★★★ TEAHOUSE To call O’Sulloc a “museum” is an exaggeration, but the green tea fields, the collection of tea cups, and the associated shop and cafe are worth a visit. The green tea ice cream is so good that visitors order it even in the dead of winter.

1235-3 Seogwang-li, Andeok-myeon, Seogwipo. 064/794-5312. www.osulloc.com. ₩5,000 and up. AE, MC, V. Daily 10am–6pm (until 5pm Oct-Mar). From Jeju-si, take road #1135 past the Jeju Horseracing track, when you see the sign for “Donggwang” (about 15 min), turn right and follow the signs.

Inexpensive

Namokdo Shikdang ★ KOREAN TRADITIONAL For seriously wholesome Korean food, you can’t beat the handmade noodles or pork at this unassuming restaurant. You’ll wish that your halmuhni (grandma) could make dishes half as good as this one, especially for the ridiculously low prices. Unfortunately, the menu is only in Korean, but it’s limited and the dishes I recommend are soondae gooksu (Korean sausage noodles), saeng gogi (unmarinated meat/pork), and myulchi gooksu (noodles in anchovy broth).

1877-6 Gashi-li, Pyeosunmyeon, Nam-jeju-gun. 064/787-1202. Entrees ₩5,000–₩7,000. No credit cards. Daily 11am–7pm. From Jeju-si, take Hwy. 97 to Hwy. 16 (toward Pyoseon). When you arrive in Gashi-li, take a left at the 1st 4-way and the restaurant is there behind a large tree.

Exploring Jeju-do

There’s no shortage of activities to keep you busy on the island. Be it climbing the tallest mountain in South Korea, exploring a cave, hiking to a waterfall, or just lounging on a sandy beach, you’ll find plenty to do.

Hallasan (Mt. Halla)

At 1,950m (6,398 ft.), Hallasan is the highest peak in South Korea. This now-dormant volcano (which erupted during the fourth Cenozoic Era) sits at the center of the island and can be seen from anywhere on Jeju-do—unless, of course, it’s hiding behind the clouds, which happens often. Locals say that, like a woman, the mountain is constantly hiding her face. Hallasan also changes with the seasons, putting on bright pink azaleas in the spring and a beautiful white coat of snow in the winter. The crater at the summit is now a lake, Baengnokdam (which is also the old name for Hallasan), and accessible if you take the Eorimok course, which is the most difficult and least scenic. The name Baengnokdam came from the legend that the gods came down from the heavens to ride their white deer (baengnok) on the mountain.

There are four trails leading up to the top of the mountain, each varying in difficulty and length. None of them is easy, and you should set aside a whole day if you wish to reach the summit. Although there is natural spring water available on the way up, pack some extra water and a meal to enjoy once you get there. In cooler weather, bring a windbreaker since it will get colder and windier as you climb higher. The Yeongsil Trail is the easiest and most scenic, but it still will take just under 4 hours to reach the top (and another 3 down). You can take an intercity bus to the Hallasan National Park management office to pick up the trail head—it starts at the southwestern side of the peak and is 6.5km (4 miles) long. The Eorimok Trail is the most beautiful when the azaleas are in bloom, but is also the most difficult. The entrance is 15km (9 1/3 miles) from Jeju-si and takes about 40 minutes via intercity bus. It’s 7.8km (4.8 miles) long and will take you a little longer than the Yeongsil Trail. If you want a real challenge, take the Gwaneumsa Trail, which is steeper than the others. The entrance to the trail is at the Tamna Education Institute, about 11km (6 3/4 miles) from Jeju-si. From there it’s about an hour to Gwaneum Temple, a total of 3 hours to reach the peak and another 2 1/2 down. The Seongpanak Trail is an easier climb with several resting spots. Another great trail for enjoying the azaleas in the spring, it takes about 4 1/2 hours to climb and another 4 to return.

Admission to the Hallasan National Park ( 064/713-9950; www.hallasan.go.kr) is ₩1,600 for ages 25 to 64, ₩600 for ages 13 to 24, and ₩300 for children. It’s free for seniors 65 and over and kids 6 and under. Open all year-round, the park is closed only for inclement weather. The park is open 5am to 10pm in the summer and 6am to 9pm in the winter. Overnight camping is prohibited. From the Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take a bus bound for Seongpanak. Daily buses run from 6am to 9:30pm. The 35-minute ride costs ₩2,000. Alternatively, you can take an Eorimok-bound bus from the terminal, which costs ₩3,000. Those buses run daily from 6am to 4:50pm every 80 minutes.

Jungmun Resort Complex

Located on the seashore in Seogwipo, this is the largest resort area in South Korea. If you’re staying nearby, you can explore on foot, but from Jeju-si, take the Jungmun Express Bus (about 50 min.) or the limousine bus #600 from the airport. For additional information, check out www.jungmunresort.com. All the attractions listed below are within the resort complex and are walking distance from Seogwipo.

Cheonjeyeon Waterfalls NATURAL ATTRACTION Cheonjeyeon means the “pond of the Emperor of Heaven” in Korean, since Jeju legend says that seven nymphs helped the Emperor of Heaven descend every night to play and bathe in the waters of the three waterfalls. You can see the seven nymphs carved on the bridge that crosses over the valley (whose lanterns are quite pretty at night). Another legend says that if you swim in the water on the 15th day of the seventh lunar month, you will be cured of whatever diseases you have by the eighth lunar month. But since swimming is prohibited there now, you won’t be able to test the myth. The Chilseonyeo (Seven Nymphs) Festival is held here in May of even-numbered years.

064/738-1529. Admission ₩2,500 adults, ₩1,350 children, free for seniors. Mar–Oct daily 8am–6:30pm; Nov–Feb daily 9am–5:30pm.

Teddy Bear Museum MUSEUM Teddy bear statues greet you on the grounds of this aptly named “museum.” The three halls display teddy bears and other soft creatures from various countries, as well as reinterpretations of the Mona Lisa and Da Vinci’s “Last Supper” all in stuffed-bear glory.

064/738-7600. www.teddybearmuseum.com. Admission ₩7,000 adults, ₩6,000 teens, ₩5,000 children and seniors. Aug 26–July 15 daily 9am–7pm (last tickets at 6pm); July 16–Aug 25 daily 9am–10pm (last tickets at 9pm).

Yeomiji Botanical Garden ★★ GARDEN The largest arboretum in Asia, the Yeomiji gardens house over 2,000 varieties of plants and trees in the greenhouse and over 1,700 semitropical plants in the outside gardens. You can view the traditional landscape styles of Japan, France, Italy, Korea, and, of course, Jeju Island. If you’re tired of walking, you can take a tour train around the international gardens.

064/735-1100. Admission ₩7,000 adults, ₩4,500 teens, ₩4,000 seniors 65 and over, ₩3,500 children 12 and under. Train ₩1,000 adults, ₩500 kids. Daily 9am–6pm. Last ticket sales 1 hr. before closing.

Beaches

Although Jeju-do is called the “Hawaii of Korea,” its narrow, rocky beaches are distinctly different from those of the American islands—you won’t find as many wide, fine-sand beaches here. However, there are plenty of spots for you to sunbathe or take in the scenery and here are some below.

Gwakji Beach ★ BEACH This wide beach is not as popular as the other beaches on the island, but still offers shallow waters and pristine white sand. There are showers and even an outdoor bathroom at one corner of the beach, where the water is extremely cold. You can even catch clams when the season is right. There is a campsite and minbak nearby.

Gwakji-li, Aewol-eup. Take the Seohwaeseon line from Jeju Bus Terminal.

Hamdeok Beach ★★ BEACH Perhaps one of the best beaches on the entire island, Hamdeok beach is on the northeastern coast. Since it’s big—the sands stretch for about 500m (1,640 ft.)—it’s quite popular with the locals. The water is shallow and generally safe (watch for volcanic rocks, though—they can leave nasty cuts). There are parking and camping areas available, as well as dressing rooms, showers, and restrooms. You can also have hwae on the pier or have a drink at the cafe on the water.

Hamdeok-li, Chocheon-eup. 064/728-7882. Take an intercity or express bus from Jeju-si Bus Terminal.

Hyeopjae Beach BEACH Located next to Hallim Park, this cozy beach has white sand and shallow, turquoise waters (1.2m/4 ft. average depth with no sudden drops, making it the perfect spot for families who want to swim), although they’ve covered the sand with a netting to keep it from blowing away in the harsh winds. Shower and restroom facilities are provided. The beach connects to Geumreong Beach, but locals refer to both beaches as “Hyeopjae Beach.” Overnight camping is allowed in the adjacent pine forest. The restaurant near the parking lot is quite good and they’ll even give you free tangerines when they’re in season in the winter.

Hyeopjae-li, Hanrim-eup. From Jeju-si or Seogwipo-si, take the bus to Hallim Park.

Shinyang Beach BEACH A great place for windsurfing, this beach is on a small peninsula with plenty of sand for sunbathing on both sides. Located on the eastern coast of the island, it’s also ideal for sailing (with the best views on clear days in the spring and autumn).

40-1, Pyoseon-li, Pyoseon-myeon, Seogwipo-si. Buses from Jeju Bus Terminal drop you off about 2km (1 1/4 miles) from the beach. An hourly bus runs to and from the beach. About a 5-minute taxi ride from Seongsan Ichulbong.

Natural Wonders

Because of its volcanic history, Jeju-do has some fascinating basalt rock formations, lovely beaches, stunning waterfalls, and other natural phenomena to explore.

Jeju-do’s 10 beauties

Ask any Jeju native and they’ll be able to quickly tick off the top 10 natural beauties of the island. Here they are—some visitable, some not:

• Gosumokma: Gosu means old, primitive forest, and there is some disagreement whether the area adjacent to Hwangsapyeong is the “Gosu.” But the name “Gosumokma” refers to the view of horses roaming around the foot of Hallasan.

• Gyulrimchusaek: The name comes from the fall (autumn) landscape of mandarin orange orchards around the Ohyeondan Shrine in old Jeju City. There had been some talk about officially designating this orchard, but an ancient document states that “Gyulrimchusaek” refers to mandarin trees on the whole island, not in one particular place.

• Jeongbang hapok: On the edge of the ocean, Jeongbang Waterfall is said to have housed a holy dragon that lived underneath it. People believe that the water contains the dragon’s spirit and can cure diseases and bring rain during a drought. The small waterfall nearby is said to look like a servant waiting on a dignified lord.

• Nokdam mansel: The snow on Baekrokdam, the crater lake on top of Hallasan, doesn’t melt until late spring/early summer. Legend has it that immortal beings drank the water underneath the snow and it is considered a sacred place.

• Sabong nakjo: The sunset viewed from the city of Sarabong (or Sara Peak) is called sabong nakjo. The Jeju people say it is like the sun and the sky are burning themselves together.

• Sanbang-gulsa: Inside the cave, water drops from the ceiling and the natives say it is the tears of the goddess Sanbangdeok, who guards the mountain. Legend has it that the beautiful daughter of Sanbangsan was in love with a youth, Goseong. An official in town had a crush on her and confiscated Goseong’s property and sent him into exile. In despair, Sanbangdeok returned to the cave and turned herself into a rock. You can hear her teardrops falling as you look at the ocean from inside the grotto.

• Sanpojo-eo: Sanpojo-eo refers to the view of the coastal scenery while one is leisurely fishing (the water, other fishing boats, seagulls, white herons). Some say the word should be changed to reflect the fishermen’s hard work, but that’s the last thing you’ll be thinking about as you see the reflected lights of hundreds of fishermen lighting their lamps at night in Jeju harbor.

• Seongsan ilchu: Seongsan, which means “holy mountain,” got its name because the 99 rocks around its crater form a castle or crown. The view of it at sunrise is one of the sights not to be missed.

• Yeong-gu chunhwa: Yeong-gu means “a hill where an immortal being lives” and is in the Pangseonmun area of Odeung-dong. Chunhwa means “spring flowers,” specifically referring to the azaleas that bloom there every spring. Looking at hillside flowers, the Jeju ancestors supposedly got a feeling of being close to the immortal beings.

• Yeongsil Giam: In a remote part of the Yeongsil trail up to Hallasan, there are about 500 oddly shaped rock pillars. They are said to be the 500 sons of a mother who drowned in the soup pot while making dinner for said 500 sons. Or 500 arhats (great monks who have reached nirvana). Or 500 generals guarding the island against enemies. Whatever they are, they are quite a sight to behold.

Bijarim Forest NATURAL ATTRACTION The largest nutmeg forest in the world, it has about 2,800 trees, ranging from 500 to 800 years old. The oldest tree of all of these beauties can be found in the middle of the forest. Looming over 25m (82 ft.) tall with a girth of about 6m (20 ft.), it is called the ancestor of all the bija trees and is said to be over 800 years old. There is a nice path provided for a leisurely walk through the forest.

San 25, Pyeongdae-li, Gujwa-eup, Jeju-si. Admission ₩1,500 adults, ₩800 youth. Mar–Oct daily 9am–6pm; Nov–Feb daily 9am–5pm. From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take a bus on the Donghae line (runs every 20 min.) to either Pyeongdae-li or Sehwa-li. From there, take a shuttle bus to Bijarim Forest (runs every 15 min.).

Cheonjiyeon Waterfall ★★ NATURAL ATTRACTION Not to be confused with the Cheonjeyeon Waterfall in the Jungmun Resort, the Cheonjiyeon Waterfall is located in a narrow valley in the coastal hills near Seogwipo Port. Its name means “where the sky (cheon) meets the land (ji).” Especially nice in the evening (when they light the water), the path to the waterfall is through a lush garden of subtropical plants. The pond into which the water falls is home to migrating ducks and the Korean marbled eel, one of many national treasures.

666-1, Seohong-dong, Seogwipo-si. 064/738-1528. Admission ₩2,000 adults, ₩1,000 children, free for seniors. Mar–Oct daily 7am–11pm; Nov–Feb daily 7am–10pm.

Jeongbang Waterfall NATURAL ATTRACTION One of the three most famous falls on Jeju-do, the Jeongbang Waterfall is said to be the only one in Asia in which the water falls into the ocean. The water falling from 23m (75 ft.) is a dramatic sight to behold. Be sure to wear shoes with good traction since the only way down is a set of steel steps and the rocks get slippery from the water. If you walk about 300m (984 ft.) east, you’ll see a smaller fall, the Sojeongbang Waterfall, a cool place to beat the summer heat.

278 Donghong-dong, Seogwipo-si. 064/733-1530. Admission ₩2,000 adults, ₩1,000 teens and children, free for seniors. Mar–Oct daily 7am–11pm; Nov–Feb daily 7am–10pm.

Jusangjeolli Cliffs ★★ NATURAL ATTRACTION Thousands of years ago, when Hallasan was an active volcano, the lava flowing down to the ocean created the Jusangjeolli Cliffs, off the Jungmun Daepo Coast. The rocks that make up these cliffs have been sculpted by the elements into a series of hexagonal and cubic pillars. The rock formations look like they’ve been hand-carved, though they are solely the work of Mother Nature.

Ilwon 2579 Daepo-dong, Seogwipo-si. 064/746-6616. Admission ₩2,000 adults, ₩1,000 ages 18 and under. Parking ₩1,000. Mar–Oct daily 8am–7pm; Nov–Feb daily 8am–6pm. From the entrance to the Jungmun Folk Museum (in the resort), walk along the farm road west for 7–8 min.

Manjang-gul (Manjang Cave) ★★★ NATURAL ATTRACTION The world’s largest lava cave, Manjang-gul was created centuries ago, when Hallasan was still an active volcano. Only the first kilometer (half mile) of the 13km (8-mile) cave is open to the public, but that’s enough to give you a good glimpse of its impressive rock formations and stalactites. The inside temperature is always cool no matter how hot it is outside. Although the cave is well lit, watch your step because the humidity can make the rocks slippery.

7-1 Gimryeong-lisan, Donggimryeong-li, Gujwa-eup, Jeju-si. 064/783-4818. Admission ₩2000 adults, ₩1,000 teens and children, free for seniors over 65. Summer daily 9am–7pm; winter daily 9am–5pm. From Jeju-si (30 min.) or Seogwipo (1 1/2 hr.), take the intercity Donghoe line bus to the Manjang-gul parking lot. Take a local bus or taxi to the cave entrance (or walk 20 min.).

Sanbang-gulsa (Sanbang Grotto) NATURAL ATTRACTION Local legend has it that the top of Hallasan was taken off and thrown away, and that piece became Sanbangsan. On the southwestern side of Sanbangsan is Sanbang-gul, which used to be called Sanbang Cave, but now is called a grotto since it houses a Buddha statue. This 5m-high (16-ft.) cave is where monk Hye-Il lived during the Goryeo Dynasty. From inside the cave, you can see Marado and Yongmeoli Haean (Dragon Head Coast) ★★★, where Sanbangsan stretches into the ocean and looks as if a dragon’s head is going underwater. When the tide is low, the walk around Yongmeoli coast is one of the best on the island. The entrance fee includes both Sanbang-gulsa and Yongmeoli Haean.

Andeok-myeon, Sagye-li, Seogwipo-si. 064/794-2940. Admission ₩2,500 adults, ₩1,500 youth, free for seniors 65 and over and children 6 and under. Daily 8am–7pm (until 6:30pm Nov–Feb). From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take the bus bound for Sanbangsan, which runs every 30–40 min., 6:40am–9:25pm, a 55-min. ride. From Seogwipo Terminal, take the bus bound for Sagye and get off at Sanbang-gulsa (40-min. ride). It’s about a 4-min. walk to the beach.

Sangumburi (Sangum Crater) WALKING TRAIL One of three major craters on the island, Sangumburi crater was, like the rest, a result of volcanic activity. But unlike Hallasan, this one exploded quickly, spewed relatively little lava, and left barely a trace of cone behind. In other words, if you want to see an extinct volcano, but don’t feel like climbing, this is the one to visit. There is a well-paved path from the parking lot to the crater’s rim. You can walk around part of the rim, but the rest of it and the crater itself are off-limits. Around the grounds are several traditional Jeju-style grave sites as well. Unfortunately, none of the buses from Seogwipo stops here, so you’ll have to take a taxi.

Gyorae-li, Jocheon-eup, Jeju-si. 064/783-9900. www.sangumburi.net (Korean only). Admission ₩3,000 adults, ₩1,500 teens and children, free for seniors 65 and over and children 6 and under. Mar 1–July 14 and Sept 1–Oct 31 daily 8am–6pm; July 15–Aug 31 daily 8am–7pm; Nov 1–Feb 28 daily 8:30am–7pm. From Jeju City, take the bus bound for Pyoseon or take a taxi (30 min.). Driving from Jeju-si, take national road 11 to local road 1112 at Gyorae.

Sarabong (Sara Peak) ★★ NATURAL ATTRACTION This mountain rises above nearby Jeju port with a lighthouse that sits on the shore at its foot. A small temple Sarasa is also nestled on its hillside. You’ll find the area dotted with young couples coming to watch the sunset or Hallyu fans visiting the church left here after shooting the drama, “All In.” But the show doesn’t end when the sun goes down; stay a bit longer to watch the lights go up on Tap-dong and the lights of the fishing boats dotting the nearby waters. On the southeastern (inland) side of the mountain is the shrine Mochungsa, built in commemoration of those who fought against the Japanese occupation of Korea during the early part of the last century.

From Jeju Airport take bus 200 or 300 and get off at Dongmun Rotary. From there, take a local bus (nos. 1, 2, 3, or 10) to Jeju Port or Jeju National Museum and it’s about a 10-minute walk from there. If driving, take circular road no. 12.

Seongsan Ilchulbong (“Sunrise” Peak) ★★★ HIKING TRAIL This parasitic volcano rose from the sea about 100,000 years ago. The southeastern and northern side of the crater are cliffs, but the northwestern side is a grassy hillside that connects to Seongsanpo (Seongsan Village). The ridge is good for a nice walk or a horseback ride. Bright yellow with rapeseed flowers in the springtime, it’s worth an early-morning climb to see the spectacular sunrise from the peak. There are plenty of minbak places to overnight nearby for an early morning hike.

114 Seongsan-li, Seongsan-eup, Seogwipo-si. 064/784-0959. Admission ₩2,000 ages 24–64, ₩1,000 ages 7–23, free for seniors over 65 and children 6 and under. Winter daily 5am–9pm; summer daily 4am–10pm. Closed during bad weather. From either Jeju-si or Seogwipo-si, take the intercity bus to Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak. Buses run every 20 min. and take 1 1/2 hr. from either of the city‘s bus terminals.

Historical Sites

The island has an isolated history sometimes akin to and at other times different from that of the rest of Korea. Buildings and structures have characteristics unique to Jeju-do and the people have interesting folklore and superstitions associated with almost all rock formations and natural phenomena that occur on the island.

Jeju Folk Village ★★ HISTORIC SITE Created to preserve the island’s historical culture, the village is actually a collection of historically re-created buildings that was designed with consultations from historians and preservationists. In addition to these modern re-creations, several structures, ranging in age from 100 to 300 years old, were relocated here, intact, for visitors to enjoy. You’ll get to explore life-size models of mountain villages, fishing villages, and shaman villages. Various artifacts are on display, and there are also folk performances and traditional craftsmen who still practice their art and sell their wares. Although it’s a bit touristy, it’s a lot of fun to try on traditional wedding outfits or ride the native ponies.

40-1, Pyoseon-li, Pyoseon-myeon, Seogwipo-si. 064/787-4501. www.jejufolk.com. Admission ₩6,000 adults, ₩4,000 teens, ₩2,000 seniors 65 and over and kids 12 and under. Oct–Mar daily 8:30am–5pm; Apr–July 20 and Sept daily 8:30am–6pm; July 21–Aug daily 8:30am–6:30pm. From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal take the bus bound for Jeju Folk Village, which runs every 30 min.

Samseonghyeol Shrine GARDEN This garden contains three holes in the ground that, according to legend, are the origin of Jeju-do’s inhabitants. The story goes that three demigods emerged from these holes and became the ancestors to the three clans of the island—the Goh, Bu, and Yang families. One day the clans found a box sealed in purple clay floating in the ocean. When they opened it, a messenger in purple appeared and said that he was sent by a king from the Byeoklang state. The king wanted his three daughters to marry the three demigods living on a western seashore of Jeju-do, and to create a new kingdom. Then, the messenger flew away. Inside the box was another box in blue. When they opened it three princesses in blue dresses emerged, along with a calf, a pony, and five kinds of seeds. The three demigods married each of the three princesses and divided the island into thirds (who got which third was determined by where arrows shot by each of the three gods fell). The stone marker, known as the Samsaseok, where this archery supposedly took place, is near the Jeju Folklore Museum, just a few kilometers east of the Samseonghyeol.

Legend has it that the descendants of these three couples populated the island and ruled it as an independent kingdom called Tamna-guk until a.d. 937, when the people from the Goryeo Kingdom invaded and took control.

Every year, on the 10th day of the 4th and 10th lunar months, members of these three original families gather here to perform the jesa (ancestral honoring ceremony). On the 10th day of the 12th lunar month, they have a public ceremony, the Samseonghyeol-je, to celebrate the history of the island’s founders.

1313 Ido 1-dong, Jeju-si. 064/722-3315. Admission ₩2,500 adults, ₩1,700 teens, ₩1,000 children and seniors 65 and over, free for children 6 and under. Mar–Oct daily 8am–7pm; Nov–Feb daily 8am–5pm. It’s a 3-min. walk from the Jeju KAL Hotel.

Sancheondan MONUMENT Located in a grove of trees just 8km (5 miles) from Jeju-si, this former altar site sits along the first trans-island road leading to Seogwipo-si. This is the spot where the winter rites for the Mountain Spirit are performed every year. This ceremony used to be held on top of Mt. Halla, but it was moved here during the Goryeo Dynasty because so many people froze to death during the long ceremonies. Today, rituals are held during the first lunar month. It’s worth a stop to check out the eight 600-year-old “bear” pine trees, so-named because their bark is the same dark brown as bear’s fur, surrounding the place.

Ara 1-dong, Jeju-si. 064/710-3312. Free admission. Daily 24 hr., but best to visit in the daytime. From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal take a bus to the Jeju College of Technology stop (takes 20 min.).

Seong-eup Folk Village HISTORIC SITE Located at the foot of Mt. Halla, this preserved (as opposed to re-created) folk village shows how traditional people of Jeju-do have lived for centuries. There are about 3,000 original thatch-roofed houses here, with lava stone and clay walls, and villagers still live in them, although some have added modern comforts. Still, like an outdoor museum, this simple mountain village is a testament to the people of the island. You can see stone statues, which are prevalent throughout the island, as well as old Confucian government buildings and traditional tombs. Most of the signage is in Korean only, but the displays are not difficult to decipher.

Pyoseon-li, Pyoseon-myeon, Seogwipo-si. 064/787-4501. Free admission. Daily 24 hr., but best to visit in the daytime. From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal take the bus bound for Dongbugwangong Rd. and get off at Seong-eup 1-li (daily 6:10am–9:30pm). The buses run every 20 min. and take an hour. From Seogwipo Intercity Bus Terminal take the bus that runs on Il-ju Rd. to the east and get off at Seong-eup 1(il)-li (daily 6:30am–8:30pm). The buses run every 20 min. and take 50 min.

Museums

Jeju-do has very few traditional museums per se, but several unusual places that call themselves museums. Most of them, like the Chocolate Museum, the African Museum, and the aforementioned Teddy Bear Museum (see the Jungmun Resort Complex section), seem to be designed solely to amuse tourists, rather than particularly enlighten them. But just because you won’t learn all that much doesn’t mean they’re not worth visiting—after all, there’s nothing wrong with a little amusement when you’re on a trip.

Jeju Folklore & Natural History Museum MUSEUM Just as the name suggests, this museum displays both the folk history and the natural history of the people and animals who have lived on the island. Its displays include shellfish fossils, bird footprints, cave miniatures, and a variety of plants and animals found (or once found) on Jeju-do. Two halls are dedicated to the folklore of the Jeju peoples, and feature dioramas of how people used to live and work.

996-1 Ido, 2-dong, Jeju-si. 064/710-7708. http://museum.jeju.go.kr. Admission ₩1,100 adults, ₩500 youth. Mar–Oct daily 8:30am–6:30pm; Nov–Feb daily 8:30am–5:30pm. Closed national holidays and May 24. Take bus no. 100 or 500 and get off at the Jeju KAL Hotel. The museum is about a 5-min. walk about a block down from the hotel (on the opposite side of the street). Or 5 min. via taxi from the center of Jeju-si, about a block from the Jeju KAL Hotel, near city hall.

Jeju Folk Museum ★ MUSEUM All of the items are actual objects used by the island’s people. Some of the more interesting items in the collection include tools used by Jeju-do’s women divers, a raincoat made of straw, and a portable sundial.

Outside on the museum grounds are 143 Mushin statues. The Mushin are gods whom natives believed would bring them happiness if they prayed to them with all their hearts. The local people sometimes still hold sacrificial ceremonies in their honor.

2505 Samyang 3(sam)-dong, Jeju-si. 064/755-1976 (Korean only). Admission ₩1,000. Daily 9am–6pm (last admission 1 hr before closing). From the Jeju Airport take bus no. 705 bound for Hamdeok. From the Jeju Bus Terminal, take a regular bus headed for Jocheon and get off at the Hwabuk Jugong Apt. stop. It’s a 5-min. walk from there.

Jeju Haenyeo Museum MUSEUM The haenyeo are the women divers who dive deep underwater without any sort of gear to collect shellfish and seaweed. Particular to the island, they are slowly becoming a dying breed. This museum was created to honor the divers and educate visitors about these specially trained women.

3204-1 Hado-li, Gujwa-eup, Jeju-si. 064/782-9898. Admission ₩1,100 adults, ₩500 teens, free for children 11 and under. Mar–Oct daily 9am–7pm; Nov–Feb daily 9am–5pm. At the Jeju Bus Terminal, take a bus bound for Sehwa and Seongsan and get off at the Jeju Haenyeo Japan Resistance Movement Memorial Park in Hado-li, Gujwa-eup.

Jeju Museum of Art MUSEUM The building itself is a work of art, surrounded by a shallow pool of water, giving the illusion that it’s floating. Inside, there are two small floors of exhibition space displaying a variety of contemporary works (mostly sculptures and paintings by both Korean and international artists), with a rotating exhibition space highlighting everything from photographers to potters. Don’t miss the rooftop garden, where you can enjoy the scenic view.

401 Shinbiro, Jeju-si. 064/710-4300. http://jmoa.jeju.go.kr. Admission ₩1,000 adults, ₩500 teens, ₩300 children. Tues–Sun 9am to 6pm (until 8pm July–Sept); last admission 30 min. before closing. Closed Jan 1, Chuseok, and Lunar New Year. Take bus no. 46 or 1100 and get off at Jeju Museum of Art.

Jeju National Museum MUSEUM This museum focuses on the archaeology and history of the island, but the exhibits, displaying mostly objects and relics from excavations from various points throughout Jeju-do, are a bit cramped and oddly organized. Still, it offers a good introduction to the history and culture of the island, including Jeju’s time as the “Kingdom of Tamna” before it was absorbed by the Joseon Dynasty (in 1404). The collection includes the usual pottery, tools, and other artifacts, but they also have some interesting costumes, old maps, and displays explaining the origin myth and other legends of Jeju. The modern building has a traditional-looking house in its front yard surrounded by various stone statues. Excavated relics range from prehistoric finds to those from the Joseon Dynasty.

387 Ara 1-dong, Jeju-si. 064/720-8000. http://jeju.museum.go.kr/en. Admission ₩1,000 adults, ₩500 youth, free for seniors 65 and over and children 6 and under. Tues–Fri 9am–6pm; Sat 9am–9pm; Sun 9am–7pm (last tickets sold 1 hr. before closing). Closed Jan 1. Take city bus no. 1, 2, 3, 10, 14, 24, 25, 27, 28, or 38 and get off at Kounimoru (it takes 10 min. from the Dongmun Rotary). Cross the street and walk 5 min. If you’re driving from Jeju International Airport, drive to the Seomun Rotary, then to the Dongmun Rotary, and then to the Sarabong 5-way (O-geoli). The museum is on local circular road 12 (about 6km/3 3/4 miles east of the airport).

Museum of Sex & Health MUSEUM Since Jeju-do didn’t have enough sex museums (Loveland and the Museum of Erotica notwithstanding), they decided to build another one. This one, however, is more of an educational institute than a place of amusement. The displays are tastefully presented for the most part, but do watch where you sit in the periodical room, or else you might be unpleasantly surprised by the wooden seats’ appendages.

1736 beonji, Gamsan-li, Andeok-myeon, Seogwipo-si. 064/792-5700. www.sexmuseum.or.kr. Admission ₩9,000 adults, ₩7,000 seniors. Daily 10am–8pm (until 10pm July–Aug).

Trick Art Museum MUSEUM This “museum” was designed to showcase the visual tricks and optical illusions created by its various works of art. Although the price is a bit inflated and the place isn’t great fun for single travelers, it is a fun photo op for the whole family. So don’t forget to bring your camera.

2381 beonji, Seong-eup-li, Pyoseon-myeon, Seogwipo-si. 064/787-8774. www.trickart.co.kr. Admission ₩8,000 adults, ₩7,000 teens, ₩6,000 children, free for children 3 and under. Daily 9am–7pm; last admission 1 hr. before closing. About a 40-min. drive from Jeju-si off Hwy. 97.

World Automobile Jeju Museum MUSEUM Housing 59 classic cars from all over the world, this collection, started by a businessman with a vision, includes a 1928 Hillman Straight 8 (the automobile of choice for the British royal family), a Model T, and the first diesel-powered car from 1886.

2065-4 beonji, Sangchang-li, Andeok-myeon, Seogwipo-si. 064/792-3000 www.koreaautomuseum.com. Admission ₩8,000 adults, ₩6,000 teens, ₩5,000 children. Free parking. Daily 9am–6pm; last admission at 5pm. From Jeju airport, take limousine bus no. 600.

Temples

Gwaneumsa ★ TEMPLE This small temple is located on the north side of Hallasan. One of many smaller temples on the island, the current building was erected in 1969 in an attempt to revive Buddhism, which was abolished on the island during the Joseon Dynasty, in the 15th century. The major temple on the island went into a steady decline and closed down for good in 1653, leaving only a handful of hermitages. The original temple, which was destroyed in a fire, was built in 1909. The temple is about a kilometer (0.62-mile) walk from the park’s north entrance.

680-26, Yeon-dong, Jeju-si. 064/724-6830. Admission to the park ₩1,600 ages 25–64, ₩600 ages 13–24, ₩300 children 7–12, free for seniors 65 and over and kids 6 and under. Summer daily 5am–10pm; winter daily 6am–9pm. Closed only during inclement weather. Overnight camping is prohibited. From the Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take a bus bound for Seongpanak. Buses run 6am–9:30pm. The 35-min. ride costs ₩2,000.

Theme Parks

Jeju-do has become an island of many “lands,” as unusual theme parks and attractions have popped up in hopes of attracting the thousands of tourists who visit every year. Most of them, like “Elephant Land” or “MiniMiniLand” are tourist traps, but some give a bit of insight into Korean culture, while others are just plain fun.

Jeju Loveland PARK In a country where you rarely see couples holding hands or even kissing on television, this sex “theme park” may seem terribly out of place. Started by 20 art school graduates from Seoul’s Hongdae (Hong-ik University), it’s actually a sculpture garden featuring an unusual, sometimes downright puzzling, display of over 140 works of art. There are also monthly exhibits and a display of sex toys. Definitely not a place to bring the kids.

680-26, Yeon-dong, Jeju-si. 064/712-6988. www.jejuloveland.com. Admission ₩7,000. Daily 9am–midnight (last entry 11pm). From Jeju Airport, take road 95 to road 99 at the Nohyung intersection. It’s a 10-min. drive from the airport.

Jeju Soingook Theme Park PARK The name doesn’t really describe what you’ll find here—there aren’t any rides, for example. It’s not so much a theme park as an architectural park, featuring miniaturized replicas of everything from Korea’s Bulguksa Temple to the Eiffel Tower and the Leaning Tower of Pisa. You’ll find over 100 miniature structures here, perfect for kids to explore.

725, Seogwang-li, Andeok-myeon, Seogwipo-si. 064/794-5400. www.soingook.com. Admission ₩9,000 adults, ₩7,000 teens, ₩5,000 seniors 65 and over and kids 12 and under. Summer daily 8:30am–7:30pm; winter daily 9am–5:30pm. Take bus no. 12, 16, 95, or 1116 and get off at Seogwang 4-way (Sageoli). It’s near where roads 95 and 16 meet.

Coffee Waterworld ★★ WATER PARK A coffee-themed water park, they even have a coffee museum, farm, and roaster. You can even soak in the stuff. They also have a herb sauna, a jjimjilbang (Korean sauna), fitness facilities, and outdoor spas. Aromatherapy and massages are available.

914-beonji Beop-hwan-dong, Seogwipo-si. 064/739-1930. www.jejuwaterworld.co.kr (Korean only). Admission ₩35,000 ages 13 and over, ₩28,000 kids 2–12. Herb sauna and jjimjilbang ₩9,000. Daily 10am–10pm, with reduced hours off season; herb sauna daily 5:30am–midnight. Take bus no. 7 from Seogwipo-si and get off at the Samju Apt. stop. You’ll be able to see the water park from there.

Psyche World Theme Park AMUSEMENT PARK Pronounced “Puh-see-keh” in Korean. What started as a place to highlight butterflies has morphed into a general amusement park for kids. Attractions include “Maze Park,” a big white outdoor maze; “Parody World,” with dozens of dioramas depicting historical and cultural events using preserved insects; and “Live World,” where visitors can hold live animals, including bunnies, hamsters, cats, birds, and even stag beetles.

155-101 beonji, Sogil-li, Aewol-eup, Jeju-si. 064/799-7272. www.psycheworld.net (Korean only). Admission ₩8,500 adults, ₩7,000 teens, ₩6,000 children and seniors. Daily 9am–9pm, last admission at 7:30pm. Take the Jungmun express bus from the Jeju Bus Terminal and get off at Jeju Race Park. By car it’s about a 10-min. drive from Jeju-si off Hwy. 1135.

Outdoor Pursuits

Jeju-do’s various beaches and rocky terrain make for a variety of watersport options. You can scuba dive, go wind surfing, paraglide, water-ski, or just enjoy swimming in the ocean. For the less aquatic, there are also ground sports options, like horse riding, golf, pheasant hunting, or badminton. If you’re more of a spectator than a participant, check out the Jeju Racecourse or see if there’s a game on at the Jeju World Cup Stadium.

Hiking

There is no shortage of hiking opportunities on Jeju-do. The most challenging is the ascent up the island’s (and South Korea’s) highest peak, Hallasan—a round-trip trail to the peak takes about 8 hours. There are four major trails on the mountain, but only two actually go to the peak. You can get information on trails at the visitor’s info booth at the entrance to Hallasan National Park. For easier hikes, there are 368 secondary volcanoes on the island (all of them extinct, of course), including Wollan Crater, Yongnuni Crater, Sonja Crater, Byando Crater, and Tarabi Crater. There are plenty of coastal trails to choose from as well, including Seongsan Ilchulbong (Sunrise Peak) and the Dragon’s Tail trail.

Jeju-do’s Olle-gil (Olle trails)★★★

A group of volunteers, who called themselves the “Jeju Olle Exploration Team,” led by a retired journalist, have discovered and renovated walking trails throughout the island. Olle-gil is the Jeju word for the road that connects your front door to the street. “Olle” loosely translates to “Will you come…?” They’re generally scenic small roads that explore little-known parts of the island. The trails lead from one into another, so those with the luxury of time can explore many of the island’s coasts and extinct volcanoes on foot. 064/739-0815; www.jejuolle.org/eng.

• Route 1 (Siheung to Gwanchigi Beach): Starting at Siheung Elementary School, this trail climbs up to the extinct volcanoes Malmi Oreum and Al Oreum, with views of Seongsan Ilchulbong and Udo. Then, it continues along the salt fields of Jongdal-li to Siheung-li (you may want to stop at the Siheung Haenyeo Jip, 064/782-9230, for a seafood lunch), past Sungsan shijang, Dongamsa, and ends at Gwangchi Beach. 15km (9.3 miles), 5 to 6 hours.

• Route 2 (Gwanchigi to Onpyeong): From Gwangchigi Beach, this trail climbs up Siksanbong through Ojo-li Village along the coast and inland to Goseong Village. Then, it climbs up to Daesusanbong past an old cemetery, then around the legendary Honinji (“Wedding” pond) and down to Onpyeong Port. 17km (11 miles), 5 to 6 hours.

• Route 3 (Onpyeong to Pyoseon): Beginning at Onpyeong Pogu, this trail goes up to the great views from Tong Oreum and Dokjo-bong. Then, it leads to Samdal-li, past Kim Young-gap Gallery (an elementary school that’s been converted into a gallery for the now-deceased photographer), and down to Bada Mokjang (a beachside livestock farm). The road continues through Sincheon Village and Baegopeun “Hungry” Bridge” to Pyoseon Beach. 22km (14 miles), 6 to 7 hours.

• Route 4 (Pyoseon to Namwon): The trail goes down to Gatneup (marsh) to Nubeureum. Get to Gama-li, then continue past Geomunmeoje to Tosan New Village. Then head up to Mang-oreum and pass the Gseoseunsaemi (fresh water springs) to Yeongcheonsa. The trail heads down, passes Samseokgyo (bridge), and goes to Taheung and Namwon Port. 23km (14 miles), 6 to 7 hours.

• Route 5 (Namwon to Soesoggak): This is the best route for seaside views. Starting from Namwon, the trail takes you along small villages past the Sea Life Research center, inland through the Camellia plant community, past Jobae Museul Koji to Wimi-hang (harbor). Then, it continues along the shore through Gongcheonpo (a beach known for its black sand) past Mangjang Port, ending at Soesoggak estuary. 15km (9.3 miles), 5 to 6 hours.

• Route 6 (Soesoggak to Oedolgae Rock): Starting at Soesoggak, this excellent trail takes you through Seogwipo-si, past Bomok and Gudumi Ports, and past Geomeunyeo and the KAL and Paradise hotels. Then, it goes past Jeongbang Falls, Sora Seng, the gallery of painter Lee Joong-seop, and Cheonjiyeon Falls, and curves around to end at Oedolgae. 14km (9 miles), 4 1/2 to 5 hours.

• Route 7 (Oedolgae to Wolpyeong Pogu): Another seaside course, this route goes past Beop-hwan Pogu (port) and Poonglim Resort to get to Wolpyeong Pogu. 15km (9.3 miles) route, 4 to 5 hours.

• Route 8 (Wolpyeong to Daepyeong Pogu): This coastal trail continues through palm tree forests and garlic fields to Daepo Pogu and Jusangjeolli. This route, which was used only by local divers, ends at Daepyeong Port. 18km (11 miles), 5 to 5 1/2 hours.

• Route 9 (Daepyeong to Hwasun Beach): A shorter trail, it’s perfect for a half-day hike. It goes from the port up to Molijil and down the coast to Hwanggaecheon (stream), past the Hwasun Prehistoric Sights. From there, you can choose to go up through the valley to Jinmoreu Dongsan around Gasegi Village and down to Dongha-dong (village), or just take the shortcut from Hwasun to Dongha-dong and around to Hwasun Beach. 15km (9.3 miles), 4 to 5 hours.

• Route 10 (Hwasun to Moseulpo): This seaside trail follows the edges of the land going past salt fields and dipping into the small peninsula where Songaksan sits, which affords a pretty spectacular view. Then the trail ends at Moseulpo. 15km (9.3 miles), 5 to 6 hours.

• Route 11 (Moseulpo to Mureung): An inland-only trail, it leads from Moseulpo past Jeju-do’s largest cemetery and various historic sites, to end at the Jeju Culture and Ecology Experience Village in Mureung 2(i)-li. 20km (12 miles), 6 to 7 hours.

• Route 12 (Mureung to Hangyeong): This trail goes through fields and along the coast, passing parasitic cones and ending at Jolbuam Rock at Yongsu Pogu (port). 18km (11 miles), 5 to 6 hours.

• Route 13 (Yongju to Jeoji): Starting from Yongju Port this road goes up into the forest. 15.3 km (9.5 miles), 4 to 5 hours.

• Route 14 (Jeoji to Hallim): Starting from the forest, this route takes you back out to the Hallim coast, where the ocean scenery reveals itself as you walk. 19.3 km (12 miles) 6 to 7 hours.

• Route 15 (Hallim to Gonae): This trail takes you along a stone-walled path with the ocean at your side. 19 km (11.8 miles), 5 to 6 hours.

• Route 16 (Gonae to Gwangryung): Starting from Gonae Port, this trail also takes you into the green hills. 15.7km (9.8 miles) route, 5 to 6 hours.

Horseback Riding

Jeju Island used to be a breeding and training ground for the ponies used by Mongol invaders. The horses you’ll see on the island are the descendants of those ponies, who interbred with the native horses. They’re smaller than the horses you may be used to riding at home, but they’re quite hardy and can carry loads of up to 104kg (230 lb.).

There are over a dozen horse ranches on the island, most of them on hillsides and mountains. One of the best is the Chowon Seungmajang Ranch ( 064/738-0344; 150 Sangye-dong, Seogwipo-si), which is open daily 9am to sunset, except during rainy weather. It’ll cost you about ₩35,000 for a 30-minute ride.

Paragliding

Jeju-do is one of the best places in the country for paragliding, regardless of your skill level. Because the island has over 360 oreum (parasitic volcanoes), there are suitable sites for launching no matter which way the wind is blowing. The best flying conditions are from September to October, but you can fly year-round (except during late-summer typhoon season), since the island’s famous winds will carry you along. Equipment rentals are about ₩30,000 and full training for beginners costs about ₩200,000. Contact the Jeju-do Paragliding Association ( 070/8900-5559; 1163-4 Ora 1(il)-dong, Jeju-si) for more info.

Parks & Gardens

Hallim Park ★★ PARK A botanical garden located alongside a beach, this park is divided into 16 areas, categorized by the types of plants grown there. The two most popular sites in the park, though, are the two caves. The Hyeopjaegul is one of many lava caves in the park, but is unusual in that it has stalactites and stalagmites. The Ssangyong-gul (“Twin Dragon” Cave) ★ is the only spot in the world that is actually a cave within a cave, a second cave opens within the first cave’s caverns. There is also a children’s amusement park, a folk village, and an outdoor resort facility.

Hyeopjae-li 2487, Hallimeup, Jeju-si. 064/796-0001. www.hallimpark.co.kr. Admission ₩5,000 adults, ₩4,000 teens, ₩2,500 children and seniors. Mar–Oct daily 8:30am–6pm; Nov–Feb daily 9am–5pm. From the Jeju-si Bus Terminal, take a bus bound for Hallim (takes 50 min.). From Seogwipo-si, take a westbound bus to Hallim and get off at Hallim Park (takes 80 min.).

Halla Sumogwon (Halla Arboretum) GARDEN This arboretum, located at the foot of Hallasan, was established for the study and preservation of Jeju-do’s natural environment. There are over 2,700 endangered rare plants and over 900 native and subtropical plants.

1000 Yeon-dong, Jeju-si. 064/746-4423. http://sumokwon.jeju.go.kr (Korean only). Free admission, but the greenhouse is open sporadically. Mar–Oct daily 9am–6pm; Nov–Feb daily 9am–5pm. From Jeju-si take the city bus bound for Jeju Agriculture High School.

Jeju Stone Park PARK This stone park also has a museum dedicated to the Seomundae Halmang, the legendary grandmother, who apparently gave birth to those 500 sons.

San 119 Gyorae-li, Jocheon-eup, Jeju-si. 064/710-7731. http://jejustonepark.com/eng/. Admission ₩3,500 adults, ₩2,500 teens, free for those over 65 and under 12. Open daily 9am–6pm, last admission 5pm, closed the first Monday of each month.

Spirited Garden ★★ GARDEN One of the world’s largest botanical gardens, it was started over 30 years ago as a labor of love by a dedicated farmer. There are now more than 100 rare tree species on display here, along with 100,000 wildflowers and native Jeju plants. Stroll through and enjoy. Lunch served 11am to 2pm.

1534 Jeoji-li, Hangyeong-myeon, Jeju-si. 064/772-3701. www.spiritedgarden.com. Admission ₩9,000 adults, ₩7,000 teens/seniors, ₩5,000 children. Ticket sales Nov–Feb daily 8:30am–5pm; Mar–Oct daily 8:30am–6:20pm; closes at sunset. Located near the Chocolate Museum.

Scuba Diving

Already well known for its amazing women divers, the underwater scene around Jeju-do is spectacular. Because it gets both cold and warm ocean currents, the biodiversity of the marine life here is hard to beat. There is a wonderful mix of colorful tropical coral and temperate species, as well as unusual underwater rock formations from lava flows that quickly cooled when they hit the water. There are great dives all around Jeju and its surrounding islands, but the best known is from Udo, off the eastern coast. There is also a group of four small islands off the coast of Seogwipo that are popular with divers. The clearest waters are found off Seogwipo, Udo, Sibling Island, Chagwido, and Gwantaldo.

Water temperatures are generally quite chilly, especially compared to other tropical areas in Asia. The best conditions are from September to November, when there are more fish and visibility is excellent. It is a bit difficult to find English-speaking instructors, but check the diving directory on Scuba in Korea (www.scubainkorea.com) for dive trips. You can also contact Big Blue 33 ( 064/733-1733; www.bigblue33.co.kr), which rents equipment and organizes diving trips with English-speaking guides.

Surfing

Jeju-do is popular with Japanese surfers, since the island’s southern coast catches the same Pacific swells that make Okinawa so popular. Jungmun Beach is the main surfing area on the island. If you don’t want to lug your board, you can rent one there for about ₩20,000 to ₩30,000 per day in the summer. Surfers say that the best waves are on the next beach to the west (at the bottom of the cliffs below the Hyatt Regency). During typhoon season, it’s reported to have 3.6m (12-ft.) tubes. Another good location is Sagye Beach, at Hwaseon, near Sanbangsan.

Windsurfing

The Korean Windsurfing Association Cheju Training Center ( 064/782-7552) at Shinyang Beach is your best bet for reliable information about windsurfing or boardsailing on Jeju-do. Although their main business isn’t rentals, they have a pretty good selection of boards to rent. The best time for windsurfing is around mid-September through March, when the strong winds from the northwest create good conditions. Another popular spot is Hamdeok Beach ★★ on the north coast.

Boat Tours

A fun way of exploring the island is to take a tour around it. Most popular are the underwater submarine tours, but the glass-bottom boats are more economical. Unfortunately, guided tours are generally only in Korean.

Daeguk Submarine Tour ADVENTURE TOUR This long, white submarine is a cross between a submarine and a boat. The passenger area is fully submerged underwater and you can see the underwater display from round fisheye portals. The top part of the submarine remains above water. The ride lasts about 30 minutes and starts from Seogwipo.

707-5, Seohong-dong, Seogwipo-si. 064/732-6060. www.submarine.co.kr (Korean). ₩45,000, ₩39,600 junior high/high-school students, ₩29,700 children. Daily 7:20am–6pm; departs every 45 min., depending on weather conditions.

Jeju Submarine Tour ADVENTURE TOUR For those of us who don’t scuba dive, this is a great way to see the beautiful underwater flora and fauna around the island. If you’re lucky, you may even catch a glimpse of one of the famed women divers of Jeju-do. This yellow submarine ride lasts about 80 minutes and goes around Mara-do.

2126 Sagye-li, Andeok-myeon, Nam-gun. 064/794-0200. www.jejusubmarine.com (Korean). ₩48,000 adults, ₩39,600 junior high/high-school students, ₩29,700 children. Daily 7:15am–5:45pm; departs every 45 min., depending on weather conditions.

Seogwipo Pleasure Boat ADVENTURE TOUR A nice way to enjoy the scenery around Seogwipo and its surrounding waters, these glass-bottom boats are specially equipped to show you not only what’s over the water, but also what’s under it. You can also enjoy a beer or another drink from the boat’s bar while letting the sea breezes whip through your hair during this 80-minute ride. Boats depart 18 times a day during high season, but check schedules since weather is a determining factor. There are two types of tours: the more expensive “Romantic Cruise,” which caters to newlyweds, and the “Paradise.” Both have similar schedules.

Seohong-dong 707 (dock at Seogwipo Port), Seogwipo-si. 064/732-1717. Paradise: ₩15,000 adults, ₩7,500 ages 7–18. Romantic Cruise: ₩21,500 adults, ₩15,000 ages 13–18, ₩9,000 ages 7–12, free for children 6 and under. Boarding 11am, 2:10pm, 3:20pm, 4:30pm. Bus no. 600 from Jeju Airport stops directly at the port.

Shopping

Given that Jeju-do is such a major tourist destination, there is no shortage of shops or shopping areas. You can buy local products in specialty shops and traditional markets, or shop for jewelry or high-end fashion at department stores and duty-free shops. If you can time it right, try and visit the o-il shijang (“5-day” markets, so-called because they’re held every 5 days) at the same location. For more information, see the “Markets” section, below.

Some of Jeju-do’s offerings include products inlaid with mother-of-pearl, black coral pipes (and other things made of coral), sculptures and souvenirs made from lava rock, shells, and locally made shawls and sweaters. You can also take home a jar of the famous Jeju honey (made from local mandarin orange or clover flowers).

Best Shopping Areas

One of the major shopping areas in Jeju-si is Tap-dong, which is located in the center of the city. There is an underground shopping center there, dedicated mostly to women’s fashions. Another shopping area is the Ildo District in Jeju-si, where there are some great places to eat too. The oldest shopping area in Jeju-si is the Chilseong-ro area, which used to be the center of town under Japanese occupation. There are still many shops here, along with plenty of bars and game rooms.

In Seogwipo-si, the streets of Jungjeong-ro are filled with shops great for browsing, including the Dongmyeon Department Store and the Maeil (“Everyday”) Market. The area is located between Jungjang-dong and Jeongbang-dong. The department store has more expensive and branded merchandise. The rest of the Maeil Market is bustling with small vendors selling their wares on the street. Most of them specialize in women’s clothing.

More diverse and unpredictable are the O-il Jang (“5-Day” Markets), which happen every 5 days (of course) in fixed locations throughout the island. There are markets in Jeju city, Seogwipo, Hallim, Jungmoon, Sehwa, Hamdeok, Goseong, Daejeong, Seongsan, and Yeoseon. They sell everything from seafood, agricultural goods (such as Jeju’s famous mandarins when they are in season), clothes, and household goods.

For inexpensive and large-scale shopping, try the Hanaro Mart in Seogwipo or the E-Mart in Tap-dong.

Shopping A to Z

Arts & Crafts

Jeju Folk Arts Complex Although you’ll find souvenirs and tchotchkes (knickknacks) all over the island, if you want authentic handicrafts made by artisans, this is the place to shop. Don’t be fooled by the name; the building is really just one big gift shop. The island’s craftsmen often have a number of workshops and displays showing off their traditional methods and talents. It’s open daily from 9am to 6pm. 064/713-7142. Take the intracity bus bound for Joseon and get off at the Hwabuk Jugong Apartments. The Jeju Folk Arts Complex is right across the street from the bus stop.

Fashion

Jung-ang Underground Shopping District Be prepared to bargain at this crowded arcade of shops. The small stores specialize in women’s fashions or groceries. The district opens daily at 9am and closes at 10pm, but individual shop hours tend to vary depending on the whims of the owners. Take one of the local buses in Jeju-si and get off at the Gwandeokjeong, Jung-ang-no, or Dongmun Market stops.

Markets

These traditional markets are mostly good for looking (how are you going to take 10 pounds of seafood on the plane with you?), but they are still a fun way to experience the flavor of the island. Although there are O-il Jang (5-Day Markets) in Sehwa, Hamdeok, Hallim, Goseong, Daejeong, Seongsan, and Pyoseon, we’ve listed only the ones in the major areas. Those markets not listed as 5-day open daily.

Dongmun Market Along with smiling pigs’ heads, you’ll see piles of chili powder, and rows and rows of glistening fresh fish from the ocean nearby. The market is located in the Jung-ang-no area of Jeju-si, around Sanjicheon, and is open daily from 8am to 6pm.

Jeju O-il Jahng (5-Day Market) The vendors at this market sell mostly homegrown foods and local seafood. You can see dried fish and seaweed piled high as locals bargain for their dinner staples. The market is open on the 2nd, 7th, 12th, 17th, 22nd, and 27th of each month. Vendors’ hours are from 8am to 1 hour after sunset.

Jungmun O-il Jang (5-Day Market) Located in the Jungmun area of Seogwipo-si, this market specializes in agricultural and marine goods, medicinal herbs, livestock, and other foods. Updated in 2000, the market is now run by the Youth Association of Jungmun. Open on the 3rd, 7th, 13th, 18th, 23rd, and 28th days of each month; vendors’ hours are from 8am to 1 hour after sunset.

Seogwipo Daily Market & Arcade In the middle of the commercial district of Seogwipo city, this traditional market has been modernized and enclosed in a covered arcade. With over 200 stores and almost 150 street vendors, it’s still a bustling marketplace where you can find everything from clothes to dried seaweed. Open 5am to 11pm, they even have a children’s playground and four stories of free parking (1 hr.).

Seogwipo O-il Jang (5-Day Market) For over 50 years, this market has been a trading center for local goods. Located in the Jungmun area of Seogwipo-si, this market specializes in locally grown foods, fresh seafood, medicinal herbs, and other local specialties. With almost 1,000 vendors, there’s plenty to see. The market is open on the 4th, 9th, 14th, 19th, 24th, and 29th day of each month. Vendors’ hours are from sunrise (usually around 6am, but later in the winter) to 1 hour after sunset.

Entertainment & Nightlife

The main tourist district in Jeju-si is Tap-dong-ro (Tap-dong St.), which starts near Jeju port. You can enjoy a late dinner, shop at the night street vendors, or just walk along the boardwalk. Many bars and places in the area stay open until 4am during high tourist season.

Other than that, most of Jeju-si’s bars are located in the “old city” near city hall. This is where the college students and Jeju-do’s English teachers hang out.

In Seogwipo, the nightlife is centered around the luxury hotels and resorts. The Jungmun Tourist Complex has upscale hotel lounges and karaoke bars. Also, many major hotels have casinos.

Performing arts

Jeju Culture & Arts Center Located in the middle of Jeju-si, the center was built in 1988. It has a large 902-seat theater for major performances, two smaller theaters, and an exhibition hall. Various exhibits and performances by both local performers and international acts are held throughout the year. 852 Ildo 2-dong, Jeju-si. 064/710-7632. From Jeju Airport, take bus 200 or 300 and get off at “munya hwegwan.”

Jeju Magic World This 2,000-seat performance space inside Jeju Art Center features acts by acrobats, stunt riders, magicians, and other performers (including about 40 actors from Shanghai). Performances are at 10am, 2pm, 4pm, and 6pm daily March through September (the last two performances are at 3:30 and 5:20pm Oct–Feb). 064/746-9005 (Korean only) or call the Korea Travel Phone ( 1330). Tickets ₩20,000 adults, ₩15,000 youth, ₩35,000 for VIP seating.

Casinos

Many of Jeju-do’s luxury hotels have casinos, which are open 24/7 to visitors only, so don’t forget to take your passport. Hotels in Jeju-si, which have casinos, include the Hyatt, Jeju KAL, the Jeju Oriental, Crowne Plaza, and the Paradise. In Seogwipo, The Shilla Jeju and the Lotte are the only hotels with casinos.

Bars

Jeju City

Several small pubs line the streets in the “old city” opposite Jeju’s City Hall, but most of the better bars and nightlife can be found in Shin-Jeju.

A place to get good beer in Shin Jeju is Modern Time ★ ( 064/748-4180; 263-6 Yeong-dong), a microbrewery run by a German-Spaniard and his Korean nephew, which is located on the second floor, about a block from the Jeju Grand Hotel. There’s also a second location ( 064/726-4141; 382-14 Ido 2(i)-dong), in the city hall area. You can’t miss their large sign and stainless steel brew tanks, visible from the window. Open daily 11am to 1am daily.

Those with more of a penchant for wine can head over to cozy Ile de Vin ★★ ( 064/745-1982; 272-49 Yeong-dong), a wine bar with over 100 vintages from Argentina to New Zealand for about ₩40,000 to ₩150,000 per bottle.

The flashiest club on the island is the Jeju Aroma Super Dome Nightclub ( 064/746-740; 274-25 Yeong-dong, Jeju-si), a four-story extravaganza with Vegas-like performers, DJs, bands, and 100 private “booking” rooms (for those on blind dates set up by “booking” agents). Best to go with a group and get a set drink/anju (drinking snacks) menu for about ₩15,000 a person. Open daily 7pm to 2am (the actual dome opens up nightly at 10:30pm and 1:30am, and one extra time on summer nights).

Seogwipo City

Seogwipo’s nightlife is mostly found in the luxury hotels in the Jungmun resort complex. One of the more relaxed is the Ollae Library Bar ( 064/735-5587) on the fifth floor of The Shilla Jeju, with jazz music and an upscale atmosphere, or the lobby lounge at the Shilla, which is popular for people-watching. You can belt out a song at the J3 Karaoke Bar or have a mixed cocktail in the Island Lounge of the Hyatt Regency.

For those missing a hamburger or fish and chips, Seoul’s famed bar has a Jeju-do location, Island Gecko’s ( 064/739-0845; www.geckosterrace.com; 2156-3 beonji, Saekdal-dong, Seogwipo-si), just outside the Jungmun resort complex. Play a round of pool or darts while you enjoy a beer on tap. Open daily 11am to 2am.

Outlying Islands

Taking a day trip to an outlying island lets you explore the beauty of the southern seas around Jeju-do and experience life in a remote fishing village. There are hundreds of tiny little islands off the coast, but most of them are uninhabitable or too small to even dock on. Below is ferry information for each island from various ports on Jeju-do.

Udo ★★★

Located off the eastern end of Jeju-do, the largest of Jeju-do’s surrounding islands is shaped like a cow—Udo translates to “Cow Island.” But don’t be fooled by the unglamorous name; Udo (also known as Udo Maritime Park) has a stunning natural landscape and is home to South Korea’s only coral-sand beach. The island’s 1,800 inhabitants make their living by farming, fishing, and tourism. From the top you can get a view of the entire island of Jeju. And much like its larger neighbor, which can be seen from the top of Udobong (Udo Peak, Udo’s version of Hallasan), the island has volcanic rock formations, stone statues, excellent fishing, and a famous, though sadly shrinking, group of women divers. If you rent a bike, it will take 2 to 3 hours to circle the island, making Udo an excellent day trip from Jeju-do.

The ferry to Udo costs ₩4,000 round-trip for ages 13 and up, ₩1,400 for kids. It departs hourly, on the hour, from Seongsan Harbor and takes about 15 minutes. Once there, you must also pay a ₩1,500 admission fee (₩1,000 for ages 12 and under) to enter Udo Maritime Park. Car ferries start at ₩8,800 for a compact.

Buses are waiting at the harbor to take passengers around the island. Local bus fare is ₩800 for ages 13 and up, ₩400 for kids 12 and under.

Marado

Marado (also known as Marado Maritime Park) is a mere 4.2km (2 2/3 miles) long and 39m (128 ft.) across at its widest point (Koreans say it’s shaped like a sweet potato).

You can take the Samyeongho Ferry ( 064/794-3500) from Moseulpo Harbor, which runs once or twice a day, depending on the season. The 45-minute ride costs ₩3,000 for adults, ₩1,600 for children. Alternatively, you can take the Songak Ferry, managed by Yuyang Maritime Tourism ( 064/794-9079), from Sanisudong Dock at Songaksan. The daily ferry leaves about every hour starting from 10am to 2:30pm and costs ₩15,000 adults, ₩9,800 teens, ₩7,800 children.

You can also enjoy a bowl of jjajangmyeon (Chinese-style black-bean noodles) or jjamppong (Chinese-style noodles in a spicy seafood broth) at Wonjo Marado Jjajangmyeon Jip ( 064/792-8506; www.maradopia.co.kr), located down the street from Marado Church. Their bowls of noodles come chock-full of fresh seafood.

Entrance to Marado Maritime Park is ₩1,500 adults, ₩800 for teens and children.