In the established garden the first order of business at the start of each new season is to remove the shredded-leaf mulch which was applied in the previous fall.
Rake up batches of the mulch into small mounds, then turn a large garbage can lid upside down and scoop one mound at a time into that (A cardboard box, or any other container can also be used). Carry the mulch off and stockpile it for use in the compost bin as needed. Leave mulch on the overwintered Swiss chard, parsley and garlic. Pull any survived endive, arugula and carrots.
After the mulch has been removed, go over the cleared areas with the rake, giving a shallow cultivation to kill any larvae that may have overwintered. Then level off and leave the soil bare until it is time to plant. At planting time rake the soil lightly to smooth out and to mix the drier surface soil with the moist soil underneath. For large seed sowings that is all that is necessary. For small seed sowings a finer seedbed is needed to ensure good contact with the seed. Go over the area again, smoothing and fining. Then spread a thin layer of fine compost.
As for the overwintered Swiss chard, parsley and garlic, the mulch covering them must be removed slowly to avoid shocking the plants. Gradually remove it a little at a time over a period of about four to six weeks. By that time they will have become acclimatized. You can leave a thin layer to hold in soil moisture.
The initial planting is one of cool weather hardy and semi-hardy vegetables. They can withstand a little frost and the earlier that they can go in, the earlier the harvest. The initial planting is done in three stages. It starts as soon as the soil can be worked with the sowing of the hardiest followed by sowings in approximately two week intervals of the semi-hardiest.
First sowing (about March 15th):
A group Fava Beans
A group Radishes (intercropped within fava bean rows)
B group Peas
C group Onions
Second sowing (about April 1st):
A group Parsley, with Radishes as row markers
A group Swiss Chard
B group Tomato Transplants—sow indoors
C group Leaf Lettuce
C group Endive
C group Arugula
C group Bibb Lettuce
Third sowing (about April 15th):
C group Beets
C group Carrots
Sow in the afternoon. After sowing, water using the impulse sprinkler. Position and adjust it so that the range of travel will cover all of the newly seeded modules. If water stays on the surface longer than the time it takes to slowly count from 1,001 to 1,010 (10 seconds), stop! You have watered enough.
Early the next morning water again. Check soil in the afternoon. If surface has dried out, re-water. Soil must be kept moist for the seed to germinate and for the seedlings to thrive. Do not let soil dry out. This early morning watering regimen must be followed until plants are well established. Then water late in the afternoon at the roots.
Before getting into the details of the initial planting; a few words about the crops that are already in the garden. Swiss chard and parsley being biennials are specifically overwintered so that they can be the source of supply in the following season until the new sowing of these vegetables reach harvest size. Any endive, arugula or carrots that may have overwintered should be pulled immediately as an early harvest. Their spaces are needed for new crops. The overwintered garlic, once the mulch has been removed, is treated as an emerging newly planted crop.
Parsley
In the second year parsley will tend to bolt quickly. It throws up a seed stalk when it’s about a year old. But by pinching off the tops of the seed stalks you can prolong the season of leaf yield. If managed carefully, keeping the seed stalks closely cut the plants should be harvestable up until thinnings from the newly sown crop can start filling your needs.
Swiss chard
The Swiss chard will also tend to bolt quickly the second year. However, with careful management the overwintered plants will be able to supply early greens until the current crop reaches harvest size: A very versatile vegetable. The younger leaves used in salads, mature leaves cooked as spinach and the stalks used raw as celery or cooked as asparagus. While the older leaves are harvested from the outer portions of the plant, new leaves are being formed at the center. This makes it possible to harvest greens repeatedly: One of the few plants to provide a continuous harvest without successive plantings.
Garlic
Having been sown the previous October for summer harvest in the current season, aside from removing its mulch, there is little to do. Start by removing slowly, a little at a time. As the weather warms, gradually remove more. Finally, leave a thin layer on the soil. See page 125 in Chapter 8 for care instructions.
In this chapter, as reference guides, each vegetable grown is listed giving a description of the recommended variety and guidelines as to planting, general care, and harvesting.
Aquadulce (recommended variety)
Vigorous, very hardy: Upright plants grow to a height of 24 inches. Large pods contain 7 or 8 greenish white seeds. 65 days to maturity.
Large seed.
How to plant
Plant in 9 single staggered rows: Rows 8 inches apart.
Make ¼-inch-deep furrows and space seeds 6 inches apart.
Intercrop radishes within the first three and last three rows.
In rows where radishes are to be intercropped, midway between the beans, space 2 radish seeds equidistant.
When all fava bean seeds have been placed in the furrow, with a forefinger push them into the soil about 1½ inches.
For radish seed, simply firm, ¼ inch is their correct depth. Cover all furrows with compost, then water.
General care
No thinning needed. Once plants are up and are a few inches tall, put down a thin shredded-leaf mulch around plants and between all rows that have not been intercropped with radishes. Mulch those spaces after the radishes have been harvested. The mulch will hold the soil moisture in. Water established plants at the roots only. If you don’t mulch, cultivation may be necessary. These plants have shallow roots, if you do cultivate, hill up about 2 to 3 inches around their stems to give support.
Harvesting
Pull radishes as needed. Beans are ready to pick 65 to 90 days after planting. Pick when pods are almost fully grown but not yet ripe. Beans will be slightly visible as bumps in the pods. Shell and cook like lima beans. Caution: Some people are allergic to fava beans. Take proper precautions before eating.
Champion (recommended variety)
Vigorous, large tops, bright red round large size: Crisp snow white flesh. Good for early spring or fall planting.
20 days to maturity.
Small seed.
How to plant
Radishes are a hardy quick growing crop. They are in the ground for such a short time that they are best sown as an intercrop, or together with slow emerging seeds to break the soil crust, and mark the rows. They are harvested before the slower crop needs the space. In the initial planting they are sown as follows:
1) With fava beans as a soil breaker and row marker.
Radishes are intercropped within several rows of fava beans. After the fava beans have been placed in the furrows; two radish seeds are spaced 2 inches apart, midway between the beans. Radish seed is firmed; fava beans are pushed into the soil to a depth of about 1½ inches (See fava bean planting instructions on facing page.)
2) With parsley as a soil breaker and row marker.
Drop 1 seed every 4 inches within all rows. Then push into the soil with your forefinger to a depth of ¼ inch.
General care
Need very little care. They require only one inch around them. Just pull the fastest growing ones for eating. Do not require cultivation. Just keep moist at the root from seedling to harvest.
Harvesting
To harvest simply pull them out of the ground. Best when they are pulled young. If allowed to grow too big they tend to become hot and woody. In Italy, the leaves are used in salads. This is an acquired taste, but try it, you might like it!
Improved Laxton’s Progress (recommended variety)
Extra early: Bush, dwarf vines grow to about 16 inches tall. Dark green pods are 4½ to 4¾ inches long.
55 days to maturity. Large seed.
How to plant
Make a center line lengthwise in the soil splitting the area to be planted. Standing at one side of the module, reach a rake across to the opposite side and pull towards you so as to skim off about ½ inches of soil piling it up in a ridge slightly beyond the center line; in effect making a wide shallow furrow. Go over to the other side and broadcast thickly. Holding the rake vertically, tamp down firmly pressing the peas into the soil. Lightly rake the soil from the ridge over the peas to cover. When all peas have been covered, tamp down again, but this time lighter. Repeat the same procedure on the other half of the planting area, then water.
General care
No thinning necessary. Plants are dwarfs and do not have to be staked, they will support each other. Since seeds are sown thickly plants will smother any weeds starting to grow. No cultivating necessary. Once seedlings are established water at the roots only.
Harvesting
Harvest soon as pods are filled, young and tender. Pick right before they’re to be eaten, as their sugar starts turning into starch once off the vine. Plants have shallow roots; when harvesting, hold vine with one hand while picking with the other, otherwise the plant may be uprooted. (Or cut pods off with a scissors.) Pick the peas low down on the vines first, those higher up later.
Note: The above pea sowing, due to succession planting is used primarily as a cover crop to improve the soil for the later planting of tomatoes. Any kind of a harvest is secondary.
Southport White Globe (recommended variety)
Can be used as green bunching onions (scallions) and also as a large white globe onion: Not for storage.
65 days (for scallions) 110–120 days (for mature bulbs).
Small seed.
How to plant
Plant in 3 single conventional rows: Rows 4 inches apart.
Make ½-inch furrows. Sow 1 seed every 1 inch.
Firm with curled forefinger, cover with compost, water.
General care
Rows need to be kept weed free. This is very important as the small roots need all the nourishment available and weeds will rob them of essential nutrients. Pull all weeds within the rows to avoid harming the roots. Being shallow rooted; onions need a lot of water. Keep the soil open and water frequently. No thinning is necessary. Generally they are pretty much pest and disease free.
Harvesting
Since onions can be used at any stage they can be harvested over a long period of time. Start harvesting as scallions by pulling plants when needed. Strive for a spacing of roughly 2 inches between those remaining. Repeat the process for a subsequent scallion harvesting. This should result in the remaining plants being about 4 inches apart. At that spacing they can be left to develop large globes until fully ripe. You will know that they are ready when the tops begin to wither and fall over. During a period of dry weather, pull and allow them to cure by leaving them on top of the ground until thoroughly dried. This takes about 5 to 10 days. If rain threatens bring them under cover. After they are cured, cut off tops about 5 inches above the bulb, braid or just tie the stems together and hang in a cool dry place until used.
Plain Dark Green Italian (recommended variety)
Celery leaf, large flat glossy, deeply cut dark green leaves. Has much more flavor than curled type.
78 days to maturity.
Small seed.
How to plant
To speed germination soak seeds in warm water overnight.
Plant in 1 triplex row:
Make ¼-inch furrows, sow 1 seed every 1 inch; do not cover.
Curl a forefinger and firm. Go back and drop a radish seed ever 4 inches in rows, with fingertip, push into soil ¼ inch.
When sowing is completed, water.
General care
Radishes will come up first, they require no thinning; just pull the biggest ones as they mature. When the parsley seedlings come up and are big enough for use, harvest starting with the main row, thin plants in all rows to roughly 2 inches apart. When plants begin to crowd each other it is time to final thin. In the main row pull plants trying to get a spacing of about 4 inches between those remaining. Then in nurse rows pull plants opposite those left standing in main row. At that point leave the main row, as is, to grow to maturity and just take from both nurse rows randomly until they are fully harvested. Pull any weeds in the main row.
Harvesting
Thinnings and the pulling of the nurse row plants supply the early harvests. When main row plants stand alone, they are harvested by picking leaves as you need them. Snap off stems at their base. Pick the outer leaves only; the heart of the plant will grow more. It will bear better if you pick just a few from each plant at a time so that no one plant will be decimated.
Rhubarb Chard (recommended variety)
Deep green heavily savoyed leaves. Colorful crimson stalks:
Grows well in either cool or hot weather.
55 days to maturity.
Small seed.
How to plant
Plant in 1 triplex row:
Make ¾-inch furrows, sow 1 seed every 1 inch, curl your forefinger and firm; then cover with compost, water.
General care
Like beets, each seed ball contains more than one seed and come up as a clump of plants which need to be thinned to a single plant. Pull weeds when thinning. Water mature plants at the roots.
Harvesting
When seedlings are big enough to use, starting with the main row, pull plants and thin so that there is only one clump standing every 2 inches. Use thinnings in salads. When plants start to crowd each other it’s time to thin again. In the main row pull plants so as to leave those remaining about 4 inches apart. Then in nurse rows pull all plants that are opposite those left standing in the main row. After that, for more thinnings, pull randomly from both nurse rows until they are fully harvested. Once that phase is done final thin the clumps in the main row so that there is only one plant every 8 inches. The harvest of main row plants is done by plucking outer leaves. Grasp stem close to rootstock and detach with a sharp downward tug, or twist. At maturity entire plant can be harvested leaving only the center heart. The plant will re-grow. Leaves can be added to salads raw, or can be cooked like spinach, stalks used like celery or cooked as asparagus. A great plant, will grow from spring right through summer up into late fall.
Simpson Elite (recommended variety)
Light lime green crinkled leaves, mild sweet flavor. An improved slow bolt strain: Similar to Black-Seeded Simpson.
41 days to maturity.
Small seed.
How to plant
Plant in 1 triplex row, side by side with endive:
Make ¼-inch furrows, sow 1 seed every 1 inch, firm, then water.
General care
When seedlings come up, have developed at least three true leaves, and are big enough to eat, retain the first plant at one end of all rows and thin to get a roughly 2-inch spacing between those remaining. Pull any weeds. Water established plants at roots only.
Harvesting
The first early harvest is achieved by the initial thinning of the young seedlings described above. That will be followed by a second harvest when the plants begin to crowd each other. In the main row begin pulling so as to get roughly a 4 inch spacing between those remaining and then pull plants in the nurse rows that are more or less opposite of those. After that, as needed, pull from both nurse rows and keep pulling until they are eliminated.
When plants in the main row begin to close in, final thin them to about 8 inches apart. Then leave to mature. As soon as plants in the main row have grown to semi-maturity or maturity they should be harvested, when needed, by plucking, not cutting, outer leaves only. Plant will then produce more leaves giving you a lot more lettuce over a period of time. Just pluck a few from each plant at a time so that no one plant is devastated. Final harvest mature plants at your discretion. But if they start elongating—a sign that they are about to bolt—pull them right away.
Green Curled (recommended variety)
Dark finely cut curled leaves: Slightly bitter taste. Excellent for use in mesclun (mixed greens salads): Disease and insect free. 90 days to maturity. Small seed.
How to plant
Plant in 1 triplex row, side by side with leaf lettuce:
Make ¼-inch furrows, sow 1 seed every 1 inch.
Do not cover seed, it is light sensitive. Just firm, then water.
General care
Very little care is required since all will be cut at a young stage. None of the plants will stand to maturity. When seedlings come up, go over the rows and thin any clumps. Try to get an even spacing between plants. Pull any weeds. Generally no further thinning will be needed, unless severe overcrowding develops. All rows are treated the same. As seedlings get bigger, since they are so close to each other, the soil will be shaded. Very few weeds will sprout under those conditions. Any weeds that do grow will be exposed when plants are cut for use. Just pull them out at that time. Water little and often.
Harvesting
Plants are harvested at the semi-mature stage by the cut-and-come-again method. Endive will re-sprout after being cut. This allows for an extended harvest without re-sowing. When the plants have passed beyond the large seedling stage and are semi-mature, start cutting. Begin at one end of the triplex row and cut right across the full width. Cut at a point about 1 inch above the base of the plant. New leaves will grow from the stump in the ground. As needed, continue in this manner to the other end. By that time the plants that were first cut should have re-grown. Generally, two or three cuttings can be had from a sowing.
Astro (recommended variety)
Dark green wide tongue shaped leaves. Strong spicy taste gives a peppery flavor to a salad: A very versatile herb.
40 days to maturity. Small Seed.
How to plant
Plant in 1 triplex row, side by side with bibb lettuce:
Make ¼-inch furrows. Sow 1 seed every 1 inch, firm; then water.
General care
Very little care is required since all will be cut at a young stage. None of the plants will stand to maturity. When seedlings come up, go over the rows, thin any clumps, and try for a roughly even spacing. Pull any weeds. Generally no further thinning will be needed, unless severe overcrowding develops. All rows are treated the same. As seedlings get bigger, since they are so close to each other, the soil will be shaded. Very few weeds will sprout under those conditions. Any weeds that do grow will be exposed when plants are cut, just pull them out. Water little and often.
Harvesting
Spring sown arugula will mature and bolt to seed very quickly. For that reason, it is not grown to maturity, but is harvested at the seedling stage by the cut-and-come-again method. Arugula will re-sprout after being cut. This allows for an extended harvest without any re-sowing. When the seedlings have developed about 4 to 6 true leaves they are entering the cutting stage. Begin at one end of the triplex row and cut right across the full width.
Cut at least ½ inch above the base of the plant. New leaves will re-sprout from the stump in the ground. As needed, continue in this manner to the other end. By that time the plants that were first cut should have re-grown. Generally, two or three cuttings, and sometimes more, are possible from a single sowing.
Buttercrunch (recommended variety)
Medium green; forms a loose head. Long standing, doesn’t get bitter in heat. Thick crisp leaves.
60 days to maturity.
Small seed.
How to plant
Plant in 1 triplex row, side by side with arugula:
Make ¼-inch furrows, sow 1 seed every 1 inch, firm, then water.
General care
When seedlings come up, have developed at least three true leaves, and are big enough to eat, retain the first plant at one end of all rows and thin to get a roughly 2 inch spacing between those remaining. Pull any weeds. Water established plants at roots only.
Harvesting
The first early harvest is achieved by the initial thinning of the young seedlings described above. That will be followed by a second harvest when the plants begin to crowd each other. In the main row begin pulling so as to get roughly a 4-inch spacing between those remaining and then pull plants in the nurse rows that are more or less opposite of those. After that, as needed, pull from both nurse rows and keep pulling until they are eliminated.
When plants in the main row begin to close in, final thin them to about 8 inches apart. Then leave to mature. As soon as plants in the main row have grown to semi-maturity or maturity they should be harvested, when needed, by plucking, not cutting, outer leaves only. Plant will then produce more leaves giving you a lot more lettuce over a period of time. Just pluck a few from each plant at a time so that no one plant is devastated. Final harvest mature plants at your discretion. But if they start elongating a sign that they are about to bolt, pull them right away.
Detroit Dark Red (recommended variety)
Round dark red tap root and large leaves: Extremely sweet flavor.
Both leaves and roots can be eaten.
63 days to maturity.
Small seed.
How to plant
Plant in 3 single conventional rows, 4 inches apart:
Make ¾-inch furrows, sow 1 seed every 1 inch.
Curl a forefinger and firm, cover with compost.
When all rows have been completed, water.
General care
Beet seed is actually a ball that contains more than one seed. If not thinned, clumps of plants will grow rather than individual plants. As soon as they come up thin all excess plants so that there are no clumps by pinching off at ground level or cutting them off with a small pointed scissors. Thin again when the plants are 3 to 4 inches high by pulling every other plant; at the same time pull any weeds. When the roots are about the size of a marble (a diameter of about ½ inch) final thin again by pulling every other plant; then leave them for full growth. All of the thinnings can be used in salads. They don’t really need to be cultivated, just keep moist at the roots from seedling to harvest. Try to maintain an even moisture in the soil. Do not soak. If the ground is continually saturated the root will rot.
Harvesting
Simply pull the beets out of the ground. Wash the earth off, never scrape or the skin may be damaged causing loss of flavor. Beets are best when 1½ to 2 inches in diameter. If left too long they will have a woody taste. To prevent from bleeding, leave on skins and at least ½ inch of the tops when boiling.
Royal Chantenay (recommended variety)
Cylindrical shape with very little taper: Good color, roots redorange right to the center: Grows to about 5 inches long.
60 days to maturity.
Small seed.
How to plant
Plant in 3 single conventional rows:
Rows 4 inches apart:
Make ¼-inch furrows, sow 1 seed every 1 inch.
Curl your forefinger and firm, do not cover, water.
General care
When seeds germinate and come up, thin any clumps. When carrots are pencil size, thin again by pulling plants until all those remaining are about 2 inches apart. Carrots at this size are large enough to be eaten, so this thinning is really an early harvest. No further thinning necessary, leave at this spacing for full growth. Keep moist at the roots. Try to maintain an even moisture in the soil. Do not soak. If soil is too wet the carrots will rot. Carrots usually do not need cultivating.
Harvesting
Main harvest when top of carrot root has grown to a diameter of about 1 to 1½ inches. To check just push a little soil away and look at the top of the root. Pull by hand. If left until larger, may not come out. If this happens, use a garden trowel; push down into soil right next to root and lever back and forth to loosen. They can then be easily pulled. Carrots are quite hardy and are able to take some frost. Can be left in the ground and harvested, as wanted, up into late fall. In fact, under a shredded-leaf mulch they can even overwinter, which will provide a welcome early harvest in the next season.