Flooring is a big deal. It’s a major expense and a long-term commitment. And few things can make or break your home’s appearance like flooring can. Here’s some expert orientation to put you on a path that will lead to satisfaction rather than regrets.
Plastic laminate is one of the toughest floors available; it’s almost impossible to stain and only ceramic tile is more resistant to scratches. It also resists moisture and spills fairly well, so it’s a good choice for basements and kitchens. Plastic laminates vary widely in price and quality. Here’s what you’ll typically get when you pay more:
• BETTER LOOKS: Some laminates are hard to distinguish from real wood. Others are obvious fakes.
• TIGHTER JOINTS: All plastic laminates are floating floors, locked together with tongue-and-groove joints. But some are manufactured to higher standards and lock together more reliably.
• A THICKER, TOUGHER WEAR LAYER: Ask about the AC rating (abrasion class). AC3 floors are best for high-traffic areas. An AC1 floor costs less but will stand up well in a bedroom.
• BETTER MOISTURE RESISTANCE: Better laminates are treated to repel moisture coming from below or between the joints. Cheaper versions will quickly swell or buckle.
Luxury vinyl flooring is similar to sheet vinyl, but it’s thicker, tougher and much easier to install. It’s economical too, with lower materials and labor costs than most other types of flooring.
Voice of experience
Our customers love luxury vinyl because it’s tough and feels good under their feet. We love it because it’s easy to work with.
Nate and Andy, flooring pros and The Family Handyman Field Editors
In terms of authenticity and character, the imitators can’t match traditional wood floors. They can’t match the longevity, either. Because solid wood can be sanded and refinished again and again, it often lasts a century or more. Standard solid wood is sanded and finished after installation. Prefinished versions come with a factory finish that’s tougher than on-site finishes. The chief drawbacks of solid wood are durability, stability and cost. Even factory finishes will eventually dull with normal wear. Wood inevitably moves with changes in humidity, so gaps sometimes develop at joints. And solid wood is one of the most expensive flooring choices.
Engineered wood floors are a lot like plastic laminate, but they’re surfaced with real wood. That’s an advantage in terms of natural looks and long-term life span. Once it wears, engineered wood can be refinished to look like new, so an engineered floor can have a much longer life than plastic laminate. Wood is also quieter to walk on than plastic. But engineered wood doesn’t match the surface toughness or moisture resistance of plastic laminate. It also costs about twice as much as plastic laminate.
Tile is the most diverse category of flooring. Most versions are extremely durable, but some (like marble or limestone tile) are fairly easy to scratch or stain. Tile can be the most expensive type of flooring, but inexpensive tile combined with DIY installation can give you a low-cost floor that looks great. But there is one thing that applies to all types of tile: Proper installation is critical. Before you hire a contractor, gather some basic knowledge. Familyhandyman.com is a one-stop source for understanding tile backers, adhesives, grout and other keys to an attractive, lasting tile job.
The right pad will extend the life of your carpet, and the wrong pad can cut the life of your carpet in half. The quality of carpet pad is determined by density, not thickness. A good-quality pad will be 3/8 to 1/2 in. thick and have a density/weight rating of at least 6 lbs. (the residential standard). In most cases, cheap, low-density pad will only last a few years before it needs to be replaced. For high-traffic areas, get a thinner pad with a density of 8 lbs. or more.