Seafood

The big danger when cooking seafood of any kind is overdoing it – fish can become dry and unappetising very quickly. Steaming prevents this, keeping it moist and succulent.

In this chapter you’ll find everything from impressive starters for a dinner party to delicious main courses suitable for both everyday and special occasions. We are all encouraged to eat more fish because they contain omega-3 fatty acids, which can help prevent heart disease. They are also natural sources of vitamins A and D and iodine – all essential for good health.

Steaming seafood

There are several ways of steaming fillets and whole fish. The simplest way is simply to lay the fish, just as it is, on a lightly buttered plate or piece of foil. It may also be steamed in liquid such as milk, stock or wine; or en papillote, a French culinary term, meaning ‘in a paper’. The fish is wrapped in foil or greaseproof (waxed) paper parcels with herbs, spices and a little moistening agent such as butter, wine or citrus juice. Remember, if you add other ingredients such as vegetables to the parcels, the cooking time will be slightly longer.

Shellfish can be cooked directly in a steamer tier, or in a very little liquid.

Cooking times for seafood

To tell whether fish is cooked

Red mullet parcels with fresh basil, olives and sun-dried tomatoes

If you have a tiered steamer, cook the potatoes in the bottom tier for 10–15 minutes before adding the second tier with the fish parcels. Alternatively, cook the potatoes in a pan of boiling, salted water, with a single steamer fitted over the top, containing the fish, for the fish cooking time.

Serves 4

15 g/½ oz/1 tbsp butter or margarine

4 courgettes (zucchini), thinly sliced

4 red mullet fillets, about 175 g/6 oz each

30 ml/2 tbsp stoned (pitted) black olives, sliced

4 sun-dried tomatoes in oil, drained and very finely sliced

12 fresh basil leaves, torn

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

15 ml/1 tbsp sun-dried tomato oil (from the jar)

15 ml/1 tbsp lemon juice

To serve:

New potatoes and a green salad

1 Cut four large squares of foil or double-thickness greaseproof (waxed) paper. Fold in halves, then open out. Spread the butter or margarine over half the paper or foil.

2 Arrange the sliced courgettes over the butter or margarine and top with the fish. Scatter the olives, sun-dried tomatoes and basil over and season with salt and pepper.

3 Whisk the tomato oil and lemon juice together and sprinkle over the fish.

4 Fold the greaseproof paper or foil over the top, and twist and fold securely all round to fasten tightly. Place in a steamer, cover with a lid and steam for 20 minutes.

5 Transfer the parcels to warm plates and open at the table so guests get the full aroma of the fragrant contents. Serve with new potatoes and a green salad.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 30 MINUTES

Mussels in wine with fennel and shallots

If you are using an electric steamer for this, use the rice bowl at its lowest position in the machine.

Serves 4

1.8 kg/4 lb fresh mussels in their shells, scrubbed and beards removed

1 head of fennel

15 g/½ oz/1 tbsp butter or margarine

4 shallots, finely chopped

1 carrot, finely chopped

250 ml/8 fl oz/1 cup dry white wine

120 ml/4 fl oz/½ cup water

Freshly ground black pepper

15 ml/1 tbsp cornflour (cornstarch)

15 ml/1 tbsp brandy

150 ml/¼ pt/2/3 cup crème fraîche

To serve:

French bread and a green salad

1 Discard any mussels that are broken or open and those that don’t close when sharply tapped.

2 Chop the fennel, reserving the feathery fronds for garnish. Heat the butter or margarine in a large saucepan. Add the shallots, fennel and carrot and fry (sauté), stirring, for 2 minutes until softened but not browned.

3 Stir in the wine and water and add a good grinding of pepper. Tip in the mussels. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and steam for 10 minutes or until the mussels open. Using a draining spoon, transfer the mussels to a large warm serving bowl, discarding any that have not opened.

4 Blend the cornflour with the brandy and stir into the cooking liquid. Bring to the boil, stirring, then stir in the crème fraîche. Taste and re-season if necessary. Pile the mussels into warm bowls. Pour the cooking liquid over, sprinkle with the reserved chopped fennel fronds and serve with lots of French bread and a green salad.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: ABOUT 40 MINUTES

Trout fillets in vermouth with a saffron and prawn sauce

Serves 4

4 trout fillets, about 175 g/6 oz each

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

150 ml/¼ pt/2/3 cup dry vermouth

150 ml/¼ pt/2/3 cup fish or chicken stock, made with ½ stock cube

1 bay leaf

2.5 ml/½ tsp saffron powder

10 ml/2 tsp cornflour (cornstarch)

10 ml/2 tsp water

150 ml/¼ pt/2/3 cup double (heavy) cream

100 g/4 oz cooked peeled prawns (shrimp)

A few nasturtium flowers or whole fresh chive stalks, for garnishing

To serve:

Creamed potatoes and mangetout (snow peas)

1 Wipe the fish and lay them in a shallow heatproof dish that will fit in or over a steamer or in the rice bowl of an electric steamer. Season with a little salt and pepper and pour on half the vermouth and stock. Add the bay leaf. Cover with a lid or foil and steam for 10–15 minutes.

2 Carefully pour off the liquid into a saucepan and add the remaining vermouth and stock and the saffron. Cover the fish and keep warm.

3 Boil the cooking liquid mixture rapidly for 5 minutes until reduced by half. Blend the cornflour with the water and stir in. Bring to the boil and cook for 1 minute, stirring. Stir in the cream and prawns and heat through. Taste and re-season if necessary.

4 Transfer the trout to warm plates. Spoon the sauce over. Garnish with nasturtium flowers or chives and serve with creamed potatoes and mangetout.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: ABOUT 25 MINUTES

Mackerel with madras mustard rub

If you like a sharp, spicy taste, put lime pickle instead of mango chutney inside the fish.

Serves 4

4 even-sized mackerel, cleaned

15 ml/1 tbsp madras curry powder

15 ml/1 tbsp mustard powder

5 ml/1 tsp ground cumin

5 ml/1 tsp caster (superfine) sugar

2.5 ml/½ tsp salt

A good grinding of black pepper

20 ml/4 tsp mango chutney

Sprigs of fresh coriander (cilantro) and wedges of lemon, for garnishing

To serve:

Mango chutney, basmati rice and a crisp salad

1 Rinse the fish inside and out and wipe dry with kitchen paper (paper towels). Make several slashes on each side of the fish. Remove the heads. Place each fish on a large square of oiled foil.

2 Mix together all the ingredients except the chutney and rub all over the mackerel, pressing into the slits and inside the body. Put a spoonful of chutney in each body cavity.

3 Wrap up the fish in the foil, folding the ends securely to seal. Place in the fridge to marinate for 1–4 hours.

4 Place in one or two tiers over a steamer, cover with a lid and steam for 20 minutes. If using two tiers, switch their positions halfway through cooking.

5 Unwrap and transfer the fish to warm plates. Garnish with sprigs of coriander and wedges of lemon and serve with mango chutney, rice and a crisp salad.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 25 MINUTES PLUS MARINATING

Plaice on garlic croûtes with egg and tarragon sauce

This also makes a delicious starter for eight people – without the serving suggestions of course! If you aren’t keen on tarragon, use parsley instead.

Serves 4

4 whole plaice fillets, cut into halves and skinned

10 ml/2 tsp lemon juice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

65 g/2½ oz/scant 1/3 cup butter or margarine

2 eggs

30 ml/2 tbsp sunflower oil

1 garlic clove, quartered

8 slices of French bread

15 g/½ oz/2 tbsp plain (all-purpose) flour

150 ml/¼ pt/2/3 cup milk

60 ml/4 tbsp single (light) cream

15 ml/1 tbsp chopped fresh tarragon

To serve:

Wild rice mix and peas

1 If using a saucepan, fill with boiling water. Sprinkle the fish with the lemon juice and some salt and pepper. Roll up and arrange either in a large, open dish that will sit on top of the saucepan or in the rice bowl of an electric steamer, well-greased with a little of the butter or margarine.

2 Add the eggs to the pan of water or to a steamer tier of the electric steamer. Put the plate or bowl of fish on top. Cover with a lid or foil and steam for 15–20 minutes or until cooked through.

3 Meanwhile, heat all but 15 g/½ oz/1 tbsp of the butter or margarine with the oil in a large frying pan (skillet). Add the garlic and fry (sauté) for 1 minute. Add the bread and fry on both sides until golden. Drain on kitchen paper (paper towels) and discard the garlic. Keep warm.

4 When the fish and eggs are cooked, remove the eggs, plunge into boiling water, then shell and chop finely. Melt the remaining butter or margarine in a small saucepan. Stir in the flour and cook for 1 minute. Remove from the heat, then gradually stir in the milk. Bring to the boil and cook for 2 minutes, stirring. Stir in the fish cooking liquid and the cream. Reserve a little chopped egg and tarragon, add the remainder to the sauce. Season and heat through.

5 Put the croûtes on warm plates and top with the fish rolls. Spoon over a little sauce and garnish with the remaining egg and tarragon. Serve hot with wild rice and peas.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: ABOUT 30 MINUTES

Tiger prawns in chilli and chive butter

Serves 4

100 g/4 oz/½ cup butter or margarine

Finely grated rind and juice of ½ small lemon

1 green chilli, seeded and finely chopped

24 raw tiger prawns (jumbo shrimp), peeled but tails left on

Salt and freshly ground black pepper.

30 ml/2 tbsp snipped fresh chives

Wedges of lemon and whole chive stalks, for garnishing

To serve:

French bread

1 Put the butter or margarine in a shallow bowl that will fit in or over a steamer or in the rice bowl of an electric steamer. Add the lemon rind, juice and chilli and steam for 1 minute.

2 Add the prawns and baste in the melted fat. Season lightly with salt and add lots of pepper.

3 Cover with a lid and steam for 5 minutes until the prawns are pink. Stir in the snipped chives. Taste and re-season.

4 Spoon onto individual warm plates and garnish with wedges of lemon and a few chive stalks. Serve with French bread.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 10 MINUTES

Crab-stuffed cucumber with dressed crab hollandaise

Serves 4

1 large cucumber

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

225 g/8 oz/1 medium can of chopped tomatoes

170 g/6 oz/1 small can of white crabmeat

50 g/2 oz/1 cup fresh white breadcrumbs

5 ml/1 tsp anchovy essence (extract)

A few drops of Tabasco sauce

2 eggs

15 ml/1 tbsp lemon juice

100 g/4 oz/½ cup butter or margarine, cut into small pieces

40 g/1½ oz/1 very small can of dressed crab

5 ml/1 tsp tomato ketchup (catsup)

15 ml/1 tbsp chopped fresh coriander (cilantro), for garnishing

To serve:

Crusty bread and a mixed salad

1 Cut the cucumber in half widthways, then cut each half lengthways. Scoop out the seeds to form ‘boats’. Sprinkle with salt and leave to stand for 15 minutes. Rinse thoroughly and pat dry with kitchen paper (paper towels).

2 Drain the can of tomatoes. Mix with the crab, breadcrumbs, anchovy essence, a few drops of Tabasco sauce and salt and pepper to taste. Pack into the cucumber.

3 Place in a shallow dish that will fit in or over a steamer. Cover with a lid or foil and steam for 30 minutes.

4 Meanwhile, whisk the eggs in a bowl that will fit over the steamer tier or in the rice bowl of an electric steamer. Whisk in the lemon juice. Gradually whisk in the butter or margarine, a few pieces at a time, whisking well after each addition, until thick and creamy. Whisk in the dressed crab and tomato ketchup. Season to taste.

5 Transfer the stuffed cucumber to warm plates. Spoon the sauce over and garnish with chopped coriander before serving with crusty bread and a mixed salad.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 45 MINUTES

Cod with melted cheese and tomatoes

If cooking the potatoes too, put them in the bottom tier of a steamer and steam for 30 minutes before adding the fish in another tier.

Serves 4

4 pieces of thick cod fillet, about 175 g/6 oz each

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

5 ml/1 tsp dried oregano

3 tomatoes, thickly sliced

100 g/4 oz/1 cup Cheddar cheese, grated

30 ml/2 tbsp crushed cornflakes

15 ml/1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

Scalloped Potatoes and broccoli, to serve

1 Wipe the fish and place on foil or in a shallow dish that will fit in or over a steamer.

2 Season lightly, then sprinkle with the oregano. Top with the tomato slices and finally the cheese.

3 Cover with a lid or foil and steam for 15–20 minutes until cooked through and the cheese has melted.

4 Transfer to warm plates. Sprinkle with the cornflakes and parsley and serve with Scalloped Potatoes and broccoli.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 20–25 MINUTES

Squid in olive oil, garlic and parsley

Serves 4

1 onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

90 ml/6 tbsp olive oil

25 g/1 oz/2 tbsp unsalted (sweet) butter

8 squid tubes, sliced into rings and tentacles cut into pieces

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

5 ml/1 tsp lemon juice

30 ml/2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

Wedges of lemon and sprigs of fresh parsley, for garnishing

To serve:

French bread

1 Put the onion and garlic with the oil and butter in a dish over a pan of simmering water or in the rice bowl of an electric steamer. Cover with a lid or foil and steam for 5 minutes.

2 Add the squid to the onion and garlic with some salt and pepper and the lemon juice. Cover and steam for 15 minutes.

3 Taste and re-season, if necessary, then stir in the parsley. Spoon the squid and all the lovely juices into warm bowls. Garnish with each with a wedge of lemon and a sprig of parsley and serve with French bread.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 25 MINUTES

Smoked haddock with wilted spinach and steam-poached eggs

Serves 4

25 g/1 oz/2 tbsp butter or margarine

250 g/9 oz young spinach leaves, well-washed and dried

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 smoked haddock fillets, about 175 g/6 oz each, skinned

60 ml/4 tbsp milk

4 eggs

A little cayenne (optional)

To serve:

Hot buttered toast

1 Lightly grease four large squares of foil or double-thickness greaseproof (waxed) paper with a little of the butter or margarine. Pile the spinach in the centre of each and sprinkle very lightly with salt.

2 Rinse the fish, pat dry on kitchen paper (paper towels) and lay one on the top of each pile of spinach.

3 Add 15 ml/1 tbsp milk to each and add a good grinding of pepper. Wrap in the foil or greaseproof paper, sealing the ends tightly. Arrange in a steamer, so that there is room for steam to circulate. Steam for 15 minutes.

4 Grease four ramekin dishes (custard cups) thoroughly with the remaining butter or margarine. Break in the eggs. Place in the steamer above the fish, preferably in a second tier, and steam for 6–10 minutes until cooked to your liking.

5 Carefully open the parcels and slide the fish and spinach on to warm plates, letting the juices run out. Gently loosen each egg with a round-bladed knife and tip out on to the fish. Sprinkle with a little cayenne, if liked. Serve with hot buttered toast.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 25 MINUTES

Salmon steaks with citrus and fragrant herbs

Serves 4

A little butter or margarine, for greasing

4 pieces of salmon fillet, about 175 g/6 oz each, skinned

1 lime

1 orange

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 sprigs of fresh rosemary

4 sprigs of fresh thyme

To serve:

Mayonnaise, new potatoes, baby corn cobs and mangetout (snow peas)

1 Cut four large squares of foil or double-thickness greaseproof (waxed) paper and lightly grease with butter or margarine. Lay a piece of fish in the centre of each.

2 Cut off four thin slices from the lime and the orange and reserve for garnish. Finely grate the rind of the remaining lime and orange and squeeze the juice.

3 Spoon over each piece of fish and sprinkle with the sugar and a little salt and pepper. Arrange the lime and orange slices on top and then lay a sprig each of rosemary and thyme on each fillet. Wrap securely in the foil or paper, folding the ends tightly to seal.

4 Place in a steamer, cover with a lid and steam for 15–20 minutes (the time will depend on the thickness of the fish).

5 Transfer the parcels to warm plates. Serve with mayonnaise, new potatoes, baby corn cobs and mangetout.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 20–25 MINUTES

Leicestershire fish pie

Serves 4

700 g/1½ lb potatoes, peeled and cut into small chunks

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

450 g/1 lb white fish fillet, skinned

1 bay leaf

375 ml/6 fl oz /1½ cups milk

2 eggs

20 g/¾ oz/3 tbsp plain (all-purpose) flour

25 g/1 oz/2 tbsp butter or margarine

30 ml/2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

50 g/2 oz/½ cup Red Leicester cheese, grated

To serve:

Peas

1 Put the potato pieces in a steamer and season with salt or place in salted water in a saucepan. Cover and steam or boil for 5 minutes.

2 Meanwhile, put the fish in a large piece of foil with the bay leaf and a little seasoning. Pour on 150 ml/¼ pt/2/3 cup of the milk. Wrap up securely and place in the steamer or in a steamer container on top of the saucepan. Add the eggs. Cover and steam for 15 minutes until the fish and potatoes are tender and the eggs hard-boiled (hard-cooked).

3 Blend the flour with 150 ml/¼ pt/2/3 cup of the remaining milk in a saucepan. Add half the butter or margarine. Carefully pour in the fish cooking milk from the parcel and return the parcel to the steamer to keep warm over a low heat.

4 Bring to the boil, stirring all the time, and cook for 2 minutes. Season, then stir in the parsley. Flake the fish and add. Shell the eggs, cut into chunks and add. Turn the mixture into a flameproof serving dish. Mash the potatoes with the remaining milk and butter or margarine. Pile on top and cover with the cheese.

5 Brown under a preheated grill (broiler). Serve with peas.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 40 MINUTES

Hake with asparagus and green hollandaise

You can use any meaty white fish for this recipe.

Serves 4

1 bunch of watercress

4 hake steaks, about 175 g/6 oz each

5 ml/1 tsp dried mixed herbs

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

15 g/½ oz/1 tbsp butter or margarine

225 g/8 oz short asparagus spears, trimmed

1 quantity of Hollandaise sauce

30 ml/2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

To serve:

New potatoes and baby carrots

1 Reserve a few sprigs of watercress for garnishing, then finely chop the remainder.

2 Put the fish on foil in a steamer and sprinkle with the herbs, a little salt and pepper and dot with the butter or margarine. Arrange the asparagus around and sprinkle lightly with salt.

3 Cover with a lid and steam for 10 minutes.

4 Meanwhile, make the Hollandaise sauce in the rice bowl, if using an electric steamer, or in a bowl over a pan of simmering water.

5 Stir in the chopped watercress and parsley.

6 Transfer the asparagus to warm plates and arrange neatly in the centre. Top with the hake and spoon the green sauce over. Garnish each portion with a sprig of watercress and serve with new potatoes and baby carrots.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: ABOUT 15 MINUTES