Sauces and Sundries

Steaming is the perfect way to make sauces. If you try making Hollandaise sauce, for instance, in a saucepan, you have to work very hard and very quickly to make sure it doesn’t curdle and it’s also quite difficult to keep it warm once cooked. That’s why it’s far better being made in a double saucepan or a bowl over a pan of simmering water, or in the rice bowl of an electric steamer. You can take as much time as you like to make it to perfection.

This chapter also contains recipes for steaming other treats, such as clotted cream and lemon curd, that simply can’t be made properly any other way!

Keeping sauces warm

It’s not always convenient to make sauces at the minute you want to use them. Your steamer provides an ideal way to keep them warm and in perfect condition until you want to use them.

To keep non-egg-based sauces warm, leave the container over the steam, turn down the heat as low as possible (making sure there is plenty of water in the base). Cover the sauce with a lid. Leave until ready to serve, stirring occasionally.

Egg-based sauces, such as Hollandaise, are best left covered, away from the heat. Then, about five minutes before serving, put the container of sauce back over the steam and heat, stirring all the time. Take care not to overheat or the sauce will curdle.

Note: Mousseline sauces are not suitable for reheating. They are best served as soon as they are made or they lose their foamy quality.

Cooked mayonnaise

This recipe avoids the use of raw eggs, which should not be given to young children or the elderly. For a less strong flavour, substitute sunflower for half the olive oil, if you prefer.

Makes about 450 ml/¾ pt/2 cups

5 ml/1 tsp cornflour (cornstarch)

5 ml/1 tsp water

2.5 ml/½ tsp salt

2.5 ml/½ tsp caster (superfine) sugar

2.5 ml/½ tsp made English or Dijon mustard

2 eggs

300 ml/½ pt/1¼ cups olive oil

20 ml/1½ tbsp lemon juice

Salt and white pepper

1 Blend the cornflour with the water, salt, sugar and mustard in a bowl over a pan of simmering water or in the rice bowl of an electric steamer.

2 Whisk in the eggs.

3 Gradually trickle the oil into the bowl, whisking all the time until very thick and pale.

4 Remove the bowl from the steamer and whisk in the lemon juice. Immediately stand the bowl in cold water to cool it quickly.

5 Pour the mayonnaise into a clean screw-topped jar and store in the fridge. Use within 1 month.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 10 MINUTES

Hollandaise sauce

Hollandaise has reputation for being tricky, but this method is the easiest I know.

Serves 4

2 eggs

A good pinch of cayenne

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

100 g/4 oz/½ cup butter, cut into small pieces

30 ml/2 tbsp lemon juice

1 Using a balloon whisk or an electric beater, whisk the eggs with the cayenne and a pinch of salt and pepper in a bowl over a pan of simmering water or in the rice bowl of an electric steamer.

2 Add the butter a piece or two at a time, whisking well after each addition until the mixture is thick and creamy. Add the lemon juice to taste and re-season, if necessary.

3 Keep warm until ready to serve.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 10–15 MINUTES

Béarnaise sauce

If you can’t get chervil, just use tarragon and parsley.

Serves 4

2 shallots or 1 small onion, finely chopped

45 ml/3 tbsp white wine vinegar

8 black peppercorns, coarsely crushed

2 egg yolks

100 g/4 oz/½ cup butter

5 ml/1 tsp each of chopped fresh tarragon, chervil and parsley

1 Put the shallots or onion, vinegar and peppercorns in a small saucepan and boil for about 2 minutes, until the vinegar has reduced by half. Strain.

2 Put the egg yolks in a bowl over a pan of simmering water or in the rice bowl of an electric steamer. Whisk in the strained vinegar and whisk for 1 minute.

3 Melt the butter and gradually add to the mixture, a little at a time, whisking well after each addition until thick and creamy. Stir in the herbs. Use as required.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 10–15 MINUTES

Savoury mousseline sauce

This is lighter and fluffier than Hollandaise and is good with steamed vegetables, salmon and trout, in particular.

Serves 4

1 large egg

75 g/3 oz/1/3 cup unsalted (sweet) butter, cut into small pieces

15 ml/1 tbsp lemon or lime juice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

60 ml/4 tbsp double (heavy) or whipping cream

1 Put the egg in a bowl over a pan of simmering water or in the rice bowl of an electric steamer. Add two small pieces of the butter and whisk with a balloon whisk or electric beater until thick.

2 Add the lemon juice and a little salt and pepper. Continue whisking, adding a knob of butter at a time until thick and creamy. Remove from the heat and whisk for a further minute.

3 Lightly whip the cream until softly peaking. Fold into the sauce, taste and re-season, if necessary.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 10–15 MINUTES

Custard

Serves 4

2 eggs

15 ml/1 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar

300 ml/½ pt/1¼ cups milk

A few drops of vanilla essence (extract)

1 Whisk the eggs with the sugar and 45 ml/3 tbsp of the milk in a bowl that over a pan of simmering water, or in a double saucepan or the rice bowl of an electric steamer.

2 Warm the remaining milk in a saucepan. Do not boil. Whisk into the egg mixture. Place over the simmering water and steam, whisking all the time until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Flavour to taste with vanilla essence.

3 Serve hot or cold.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 20 MINUTES

Rum custard sauce

Serves 4

2 eggs

15 ml/1 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar

200 ml/7 fl oz/scant 1 cup milk

60 ml/4 tbsp single (light) cream

30 ml/2 tbsp rum

1 Whisk the eggs with the sugar and 45 ml/3 tbsp of the milk in a bowl over a pan of simmering water, or in a double saucepan or the rice bowl of an electric steamer.

2 Warm the remaining milk and cream in a saucepan. Do not boil. Whisk into the egg mixture with the rum. Place over the simmering water and steam, whisking all the time until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.

3 Serve warm.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 20 MINUTES

Brandy sabayon

Serves 4–6

3 egg yolks

30 ml/2 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar

150 ml/¼ pt/2/3 cup brandy

1 Put all the ingredients in a bowl over a pan of simmering water, or in a double saucepan or the rice bowl of an electric steamer.

2 Whisk with an electric beater or balloon whisk until thick and foamy. Use as soon as possible.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 5–10 MINUTES

Orange mousseline sauce

You can make Lemon Mousseline Sauce, by substituting a lemon for the orange. For a special treat, make an alcoholic version, using 30 ml/2 tbsp orange, peach or coffee liqueur instead of the orange rind and juice.

Serves 4

2 small eggs

40 g/1½ oz/3 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar

Finely grated rind and juice of 1 orange

1 Put all the ingredients in a bowl over a pan of simmering water or in a double saucepan or the rice bowl of an electric steamer.

2 Whisk with an electric beater or hand whisk until thick and frothy.

3 Use immediately. It is delicious with steamed puddings or spooned over fresh soft fruits.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 5–10 MINUTES

Lemon curd

For Orange Curd, use 2 oranges and 1 lemon instead of 3 lemons.

Makes about 450 g/1 lb

100 g/4 oz/½ cup unsalted (sweet) butter, cut into pieces

225 g/8 oz/1 cup granulated sugar

3 large eggs, beaten

Finely grated rind and juice of 3 large lemons

1 Put all the ingredients in a bowl over a pan of simmering water, or in a double saucepan or the rice bowl of an electric steamer.

2 Cook, stirring frequently, until the sugar melts and the curd thickens and will coat the back of the spoon – this should take about 30 minutes.

3 Pot, cover, cool and store. It will keep for up to 2 weeks in a cool, dry cupboard, and 1 month in the fridge.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 35 MINUTES

Hot chocolate sauce

SERVES 4

100 g/4 oz/1 cup plain (semi-sweet) chocolate

15 g/½ oz/1 tbsp butter or margarine

30 ml/2 tbsp icing (confectioners’) sugar

45–60 ml/3–4 tbsp hot water

1 Break up the chocolate and put in a bowl over a pan of simmering water or in a double saucepan or the rice bowl of an electric steamer. Steam until melted, stirring occasionally.

2 Add the butter or margarine and icing sugar and stir all the time until smooth and well blended. Thin with hot water to the consistency you like. Serve hot.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 5–10 MINUTES

Pear, apple and cinnamon spread

This can be made at the same time when you are steaming a pudding or something that takes a while. It’s delicious on bread or toast and fabulous as a filling for sponge cakes.

Makes about 450 g/1 lb

3 eating (dessert) apples, peeled

3 ripe pears, peeled

15 ml/1 tbsp soft dark brown sugar

2.5 ml/½ tsp ground cinnamon

5 ml/1 tsp lemon juice

Clear honey, to taste

7.5 ml/1½ tsp powdered gelatine

1 Thinly slice the apples and pears. Mix with the sugar, cinnamon and lemon juice in a bowl that will fit in a steamer.

2 Transfer to the steamer, cover and steam for 1½ hours or until really pulpy, stirring once or twice.

3 Whisk in the gelatine until dissolved. Turn the mixture into a clean jar or container with a sealable lid. Cover, cool, then chill until set. It will keep in the fridge for up to 1 month.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 1 HOUR 40 MINUTES PLUS CHILLING

Golden brandy sauce

Serve this sauce over ice cream or with steamed puddings.

Serves 4

90 ml/6 tbsp clear honey

45 ml/3 tbsp brandy

25 g/1 oz/2 tbsp unsalted (sweet) butter

1 Put the honey and brandy in a bowl over a pan of simmering water, or in a double saucepan or the rice bowl of an electric steamer. Heat, stirring, until very hot.

2 Whisk in the butter a small piece at a time until shiny and well blended. Serve hot.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 5–10 MINUTES

Clotted cream

Don’t waste the leftover skimmed milk – you can use it in recipes for sauces or scones.

Makes about 225 g/8 oz/1 cup

300 ml/½ pt/1¼ cups milk

300 ml/½ pt/1¼ cups single, whipping or double (heavy) cream

1 Put the milk and cream in a wide, shallow, heatproof bowl that will fit in or over a steamer, or the rice bowl of an electric steamer. Leave in the fridge for at least 12 hours to allow the cream to rise to the surface.

2 Transfer to a steamer and steam, uncovered, for 2 hours until a thick, golden crust forms on top.

3 Carefully remove the bowl from the steamer, leave to cool, then chill. Skim off the clotted cream using a draining spoon and store in a clean covered pot in the fridge.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 2 HOURS PLUS STANDING AND CHILLING

Low-fat thick clotted cream

I discovered this by mistake one day when I was trying to make a low-fat version using cream substitute, but forgot to add any milk. The result was fantastic!

Makes about 200 g/7 oz/scant 1 cup

250 ml/8 fl oz/1 cup low-fat double (heavy) cream

1 Pour the low-fat cream into a wide, shallow heatproof bowl that will fit in or over a steamer or in the rice bowl of an electric steamer. Steam for 2–3 hours.

2 Remove the bowl from the heat and leave to cool, then chill. Gently break up the crust and fold it into the thick cream below. Store in a clean covered pot in the fridge.

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME: 2–3 HOURS PLUS CHILLING