Minnesota to Montana, 1881

Lucy Clark Allen

INTRODUCTION

It was in the summer of 1881 that, according to Lucy Allen, she and her husband, Allison, began their long journey to Montana, after living several years in Osakis, Douglas County, in west central Minnesota. They had experienced several years of bad crops, and that brought them hard times. Lucy wrote on Monday, August 1, 1881, that the family was made up of 8 children, whom we list here:

Olive (Ollie)	age 15	Allison, Jr.	11
Asenath (Sena)	13	Lewis E.	10
Alice A. (Allie)	?	Leon (Lee)	6
Minnie E.	?	Clarke	1

Allison, Sr., was the father and husband on the journey. He and Lucy had been married on April 10, 1864. Lucy reminds her readers on October 30, 1881, that on that date she turned 37 years of age. Allison was 39, his birth date having been February 27, 1842.

One reason they were going to Helena was that Allison had a brother there who encouraged them to move to Helena.

After a year in Helena the Allen family moved on to Washington Territory. At first they settled in Spokane, then they moved to Half Moon Prairie, some fourteen miles north of that city. There they are supposed to have traded with the Indians for 160 acres of land. Allison built the first saw mill in that part of eastern Washington. He also farmed some.

Lucy Allen, our diarist, lived until August 31, 1909, when she died at age 67. The Certificate of Death of the Washington State Board of Health declared that she died of “Diabetis—of long duration in all probability, ” and was in a coma for the last twenty hours.

The word about this precious diary came to us in a letter written by Mrs. Tilly Fender of Hermosa Beach, California. She told of having discovered among the papers of her late husband, Robert Fender, a diary written by his grandmother, Lucy Allen on a journey from Fargo, North Dakota, to Helena, Montana. She gladly sent us a photocopy of the diary and also a portrait of Lucy and Allison Allen and gladly gave us permission to publish the rare document.

FOREWORD TO LUCY ALLEN’S DIARY

The year of 1880 will long be remembered by myself and husband as one of the years of partial falure of the wheat crops in Minnesota—that is, the part of Minnesota in which we lived. Which was in Osakis, Douglas Co. This year of 1880, our crops (and in fact nearly all of our neighbors) hardly paid the expence of harvesting.1

And in fact, the two or three previous years were poor cropt and the farmers were becoming—what in western terms are called “hard up, ” my husband especially so, as our farm was small, and our family a large one. It was either “sell out, ” or become bankrupt entirely. We got the idea of going farther west. So in the fall of 1881, we sold “our little home” and in March, he and our oldest son, a lad 11 years old, took our two span of horses & waggons (leaving the rest of our family still in Osakis) and started for some of the big farms up west. They found work on a farm called the Richison farm, near Moorhead Minn. A very large farm, 25, 000 acres. They worked there 14 days, and then sent for us. And May 25 we started, and went in the cars, to Fargo [North Dakota] where my husband met us at the depot. We staid in Fargo just nine weeks, my husband working in the meanwhile, with both teams. We made some very plesant acquaintances and a good many—as I believed—true friends. At least they were sorry to have us go. Fargo is situated on the west bank of the Red river of the north. The City of Fargo is a very pleasant busy place, and a great business center, for the surrounding states & Territory. There are in Fargo some of the largest business houses & Public buildings in the west. The surrounding country is very level, and looks beautifully covered with large fields of wheat and oats. And in places not cultivated, with grass and wild flowers, among which, is the wild rose.

Fourth of July in Fargo was one of the most pleasant we ever spent. The beautiful park, on the east side of Fargo, near the banks of the river, which was composed of noble cotton woods, made a cool shade, sheltering some thousand of people from the heat, and dust. There were parades, of the Fargo & Moorhead bands, a company of soldiers fire & hoock & ladder companys. And ever so many more. They all looked splendid, although not very joyous on account of the news of the shooting of Garfield.2 Well I for one would like very much to live in Fargo and it was the same with the rest of the family, nothing but plesant remembrances of the place. When we started from there, all agreed to keep a diary, from the day we started, until we reach Helena the place where we intended going from the time we sold out in Minn. But our funds were not very great, though Allison always declared he would go if he had to stop by the way and work. Allison has a brother in Helena who he has not seen in 25 years, and Helena is to be our destination. So here is my diary which will not be very perfect in some parts as to wording but I tried to keep faithful record of the principal places and the chief events of our journey dated from Aug the first 1881.

Lucy J. and Allison Allen.

THE DIARY OF LUCY J. ALLEN

Monday, August 1, 1881. All the fournoon we packed all the goods we are to take with us. In the afternoon, quite a number of our friends come to see us off, on our journey and say goodbye, among whom were Mrs Duvall, her 3 daughters & son, Mrs. Pray & Sister, and a number of others. At half past 3 in the afternoon we started from fargo D. T. [Dakota Territory] on our journey towards Helena M. T. [Montana Territory] (hope we may have a safe and pleasant journey). After 5 in the evening we came to Shianee [Sheyenne] River crossed over on a long bridge and camped for the night near a cornfield. cooked our first meal which was supper, on the camp fire. looks something like a storm. this will be our first experience in sleeping in our canvass covered wagons. Well they all seem to enjoy it. there are quite a family of us My husband myself, 4 girls 4 boys, and a young fellow we will call dick, he has worked for Allison all the spring and wanted to go with us to Montana, he is quite handy, drives one wagon. We go with 2 teams one carried the family and the other luggage. There was an old bachelor who intended going with us, but when we started he was no where to be seen although his wagon was there. perhaps he will overtake us.

August 2. Started from camp on Shianee river. they tell us we will cross it again at Vallie City. last evening after supper the bach[elor] came driving into camp he was greatly troubled as some one had stolen his gun & revolver. did not say much but wondered who could have taken them. Allison tried to comfort him; well this fournoon we have passed some very nice farms and passed through a place called Mapleton, about 10 oclock. there saw the old Baches mules as he had driven ahead, but did not see him. We will call him Conner after this. we reached a place called castleton [Casselton] at 3 oclock did not stop sooner on account of scarcety of water. cooked our dinner on farm No. 1 on what is called the great Dalrymple farms the RR passes through them. were just breaking camp in order to go on a little further, and if possible find a better camping ground when 2 men accosted us, and asked to search our wagons, as Conner had had a search warrant gotten to search us for the missing gun & Revolver. Allison helped them to remove the things from the wagons, but of course they did not find the missing articles, but Dick owned a revolver looking something like the revolver discribed in the warrant so they requested us to go on to the village of Castletown, which was near, and wait there untill they could telegraph back so as to be sure about it. We passed up to the village, and waited there, about two hours, when they came to Allison, and told him it was all right we could go on and that they were sorry they had been obliged to bother him, and wanted to treat. but he thanked them and we went on a little further & camped for the night on a farm run by a man by the name of Rose, whom we had been acquainted with in Fargo. hope we have seen the last of Connor.

August 3. During the night there came up a thunderstorm and such raining I never saw before. The wagon covers were new and therefore not properly stretched on the frames did not shed the rain very well. it was not long before we were wet through, bedding and all. it was of course impossible to sleep, and I could hear above the thunder and the torrent of rain on the cover, the voices of the girls singing to the tops of their voices, and they kept it up, they and the rain untill morning. When daylight came we drove our wagons up to the farm house and took shelter for the family. When the sun came up it stopped raining and of course we hung out our bedding and dried it so we could start in the afternoon. here we began to meet grasshoppers, by the cloudsfull. we traveled on and soon reached a place called wheatland. traveled 15 miles further and camped, the country is very beautiful around here. slightly rolling Prerrie.

August 4. this morning we started again over a rolling Prerrie (heretofore we have traveled over perfectly flat Prerie) in sight of the dakota Range, a succession of rolling hills. the first villiage we passed was tower City a pleasant place with nice farms around with beautiful riponing wheat. 6 miles further we came to Carleton a station which will not amount to much. After passing through some very large farms some of whose buildings made a small villiage of their own, came to a place called Vallie City. cming to which, about 2 or 3 miles east we went over our first real rough road. the town is situated among the hills it lookes like a little jem the shinee [Sheyenne] R. running to one side and all bounded with beautiful trees and bushes. After that we had some quite high hills to climb and after those there were some more nice farms with cattle and sheep and ripening grain the reapers at work. then came some more level country with once in a while a knoll. took the wrong road. struck across the prerrie in search of the right one camped on the railroad at 25 min. past 7 in the evening by the side of an alcholi lake the first alcholi water that we have tasted. do not care about any more of it. it is awfully nasty.

August 5. This morning we broke up camp, drove through a hilly country west about three miles. we came to a place called Sanborn then we traveled untill we went 25 miles and reached a place called Jamestown. Nothing of interest to write about. The country was verry hilly, and not good farming land (only a few places) grasshoppers very thick over the country, and doing great damage. Jamestown in situated in a high pleasant valley and very levil. passed throught Jamestown, over Jim river, on a long shakey bridge, left our bucket on the bridge, and climed a very high hill on the west side. struck quite a smooth country camped now, at about half past six, two miles from Jamestown today. we heard there was an outfit ahead of us about a days drive. we hear that they are going like us to Montana. we are in hopes of overtaking them.

August 6. passed this morning through large fields of flax. We started from camp at half past six in the morning. passed over some hilly country, with occasional small valleys between, and atop the hills a long stretch of levil land but very poor & stony. We passed Eldridge station at nine minuits to eight, stopped at a nice farm near the station called the Fulton farm with 800 acres in wheat & oats, and 200 in Flax. passed over the hilly land 8 miles to elton Station. over took three teams belonging to a man by the name of hasett about noon. camped for dinner. made acquaintence with the people they state that they are bound in the same direction and likely to join in company, and we are very glad indeed, as it seemed as if we were adrift and no other Ship in sight, and after getting in sight of covered wagons, we all set up a shout. well here we are camped for noon, and they seem very pleasant peoole. They are Husband, wife, six children, and to men along as help, by the names of Wagoner and “Ben Burt.” so there will be quite a company of us. We are camped tonight near a station called Midway. After being settled for the night a young man came into camp, asking us if we would honor them with our company for the evening, seeing our wagons pass with ladies along, they telegraphed for more ladies, as there was not a woman in 30 miles around they had quite a company however. The girls went with thier Father and they declared they never had a better time in thier lives had a real social dance and supper.

August 7. today is the first Sunday out from fargo 7 days out today, and I will spend the day or most of it in writing in my diara. this is a pleasant place to camp for Sunday. A nice spring near by, and plenty of good grass for the horses. I think we shall like our fellow travelers very much we have visited back and fourth and are getting well acquainted. And now comes the most curious part of my report. yesterday I forgot to put in my diary Connor who had us searched for his gun & revolver is with us. he said he was sorry for the trouble he put us to and so fourth, he said he did not think we (that is Allison) had it, but Edwards who lives in fargo made him think Dick had it Connor went back to Fargo and searched around there and at last found them in the possession of a tramp near the railroad then hurried and overtook us, he seemed overjoyed to meet us again but we cannot say the same of him. Today we washed some and it is Sunday too. but necessity etc. etc. and I have also baked some light bread which is quite a luxury after so nuch hot bread called Flapjacks, the way I bake light bread is this. I have a large camp kettle, flat bottomed with a tight cover. I put my dough in the kettle and set it by the fire to rise. in the meanwhile I have a hole dug in the ground, and build a fire in it. When my dough is light, and the hole in the ground is hot, I take the coals out, and put them in a pile at one side. Then leaving a few small coals at the bottom of the pit, set the kettle of bread on them, put the pan snugly in the top of the kettle, fill it with coals & hot ashes, then pile the rest of the hot ashes around the kettle in the pit and in an hour I can bake a large loaf. I have baked 7 or 8 such loves in a day, besides doing considerable else. I begin to enjoy this kind of life very much.

August 8. Left Midway—it is called Midway, on account of its being midway between Fargo and Bismark—at half past six. traveled some very hilly country. reached Crystil [Crystal] springs about 9 oclock A.M. Crystil springs is a large boiling spring between hills—traveled on—after watering the horses, and filling the water kegs—over some levil but poor land. and a great deal of hilly stony land. we traveled 12 mis. and camped near 14th siding for night.

August 9. Started from 14th siding, or(steele farm) 10 min to six. About the same lay of country as the day before, with once in several miles a large farm, with solid looking farm houses. I would not live on one of them if I could have a gift of them all. they look so dreary & lonesome, stopped about 10 at another station called 15th siding. the only habitation we saw, after leaving camp this morning. after this came the same dreary hilly country the soil very sandy in places. saw our first cactus and sand burrs and an occasional small village of perarie dogs. we are now camped for night near a farm and station called Clark. it is almost desolated of every kind of vegitation by grasshoppers as are nearly all the farms this side of fargo. this country will not amount to much as farming land on account of them.

August 10. started from camp about 7 this evening. came to the outskirts of the town of Bismark as seen from the east side it looks like a pleasant place. camped there until the afternoon. After dinner, came two miles to the west side of the town. this side of the town does not look so pleasant. we are now camped near the Missouri river. it is the strangest stream I ever saw. it seems composed of sand bars and a small amount of water at night the river will be flowing next the bank near us. and the next morning if the wind blows from shore, it will be flowing on the other shore with a sand bar between us and the river or sometimes sand bars divide it into two streams; today Allison and Hasset went to see what were the chances to cross the river there is no bridge here the only way of crossing is on a large transport or steamer which takes the cars on and ferries them to the other shore. And our only way to cross would be to hire cars and load our teams and waggons on them and then the boat take them over, then we would have to pay our way separate from the cars to cross over the familys which would cost us about 30 dollars. that was 28 dollars more than we possessed. then they went to see what the chances were to get passed to the end of the R.R. adn work out our passage when we got there. the contractor told them if both men would work at Bismark a month they should have a pass to the end of the road. As this is our only chance they will work here of course.

August 11. the men have fixed the camp here on the bank of the river and it is a dreary place today they commenced work for the railroad they get $4 per day with their teams the water of the river is very riley, so we are bothered for water. our two families make quite an encampment.

August 12. today the men are at work, and we women try to wash a little and get the meals, but the wind blows hard and the sand flies in clouds. no shelter but our waggon covers. it is verry difficult to do ennything and have it clean.

August 13. got the meals as usual try to sew and mend a little. the men say that is hard working on account of the wind and flying sand. the weather is verry warm, which adds much to the general discomfort

August 14. get the meals as usual and bake bread, so uncomfortable here that we can scarcely live.

August 15. got breakfast, and the men went to work again. we baked bread in the forenoon; they have found out that there is a negro saloon near our camp, much to our disgust, numbers of half drunken negroes and steamboat men are continually passing. the steamboat landing is on the other side of our camp so it seems we are camped between two fires. Alice has been quite sick for a few days which makes it more unpleasant.

August 16. today has been the first still day, and it has been verry warm. the negroes made last night hideous with their yelling, and with firing an occational shot. that and the barking of our dogs who do not like our surroundings enny better than ourselves, made a dismal night of it and of course we did not get much rest.

August 17. quite a pleasant day today cooked the meals and try to eat in the dirt and sunshine.

August 18. Alice is much better which makes my heart much lighter. A couple of steamboats landed near today, loaded with indians and soldiers. there are a camp of indians between us and town today has been quite warm.

August 19. the girls took a ride across the river to Mandan on the boat that takes the cars3 over. three of them went on the trip. they had a pleasant time.

August 20. during the night the negroes made it livlier than usual with firing at each other and yelling. several bullets passed over the waggons. the men will move us from this place as we are in danger here of getting killed. they were too drunk to hit each other but were in danger of hitting some one else. two drunken men came into our camp this evening but were quickly marched out by our men. our men will hunt us up a more pleasant place if possible nearer their work, ennywhere will seem better than this place.

August 21. today we broke up our camp, by picking up and loading our effects and loading them on our waggons, and moved half a mile the other side of the saloon, and near the mens work. think this place will be some better than the other it is more quiet.

August 22. got the meals and made an awning from a small tent to eat our meals under from the terrible heat of the sun. one of Aliys horses had a bad tumble down a verry steep long bank. did not hurt him much but was shaken pretty bad.

August 23. Allison used Connors mules his horse is quite lame Connors team was not in use as he had hurt his ankle. the men joke him about the manner of his getting hurt and tell him that he undertook to carry away a plow. the way was this: the plow was verry large, one used in gradeing on the R.R. the largest Connors ever saw it was turned bottom upwards, and as he stood looking at it it fell over, hitting him on the ankle. At first they thought his ankel broken but it is only badly bruised, and verry painful.

August 24. Connors ankle is swolen verry badly; it has been a verry uncomfortable day here today the wind blown hard all day and the way sand flew was awful. no trees no grass even it is the most desolate country I ever saw

August 25. nothing of importance occured today nothing but the same wind and dust some of the children went up the river a way, some two or three miles and found a small grove near the river in the grove they found some ripe grapes which after being cooked and sweetened made quite nice sauce. we are all in a great hurry to leave here. the work is verry wearing on our horses.

August 26. this morning Allison tole me to bake a good lot of bread and cook such provision as could be taken that way, as the contractor told them he would give us passes to go on the morrow. we are greatly rejoiced at the news. have been verry busy all day. will go tomorrow if we can secure empty cars.

August 27. last evening Hasset Allison ben and Wagner went into town to see if they could get an empty car. they succeeded in securing two so early this morning we commenced packing our goods on our waggons and moved to where the cars were one car they packed the waggons in which they had to take to pieces. the other they have packed the horses. all day long until nearly night it took them, and they all worked hard. well after we had everything in and ate our supper we all went to the depot to wait until they were ready to put us across the river. we had to wait there three or four hours (after buying some provision Allison has only a dollar and half to bless himself with) provisions are verry high here. well Allison is resolute and says he will go through. well here we are across the river at last in the depot at Mandan, a village across the river from Bismark. after coming here we found the cars would not go on until morning. Well what are we to do we expected to have kept on the cars on our journey, but instead we will have to stay in this place until morning with not money enough to stay at a hotel, and we cannot stay at the depot. Allison and Hassett said they would look around; (they have just come in and said, pick up and come but I don’t know where so I will have to stop for tonight…

in the evening of the 28, we boarded the train about 12 oclock noon and started toward the far famed Badlands:4 this afternoon we passed over some pleasant country and also, some verry hilly country, some verry high buttes and then some level land. then would come a solitary Railway station, but we did not reach the regular badlands until night the conductor said he dreaded going down into them as the first 20 miles was a continual down grade, and it was raining hard and verry dark with thunder and lightning. the girls all stood on the back platform of the cars all the way down so as to see all that was to be seen. I had the little ones to sleep and sat by the open window the lightning lit up the scene occasionally but I could catch a sight of nothing but buttes and huge boulders which looked as we flew along black as ink, and pools of watter like little lakes, which as the lightning played over the scene looked black as the hills in places it seemed as if we were going through places just wide enough for the train to pass through. The black walls toward high up above us, so that the din and noise of the cars was perfectly deafening. The screeching of the brakes (as they were all put on) and clanking and roar of the wheels, on the rails; and the rails were laid on rock all combined with the occasional thunder claps and lightning flashes, made the scene ennything but pleasant. Often the wheels as I looked from the window would blaze owing to the friction. Well I cannot describe as it ought to be, the grandeur and terror of that ride. I can never forget it and I would not like to take it over again. the girls said they enjoyed it that it was grand & all that (ugh.) to me it seemed like descriptions I have read of the regions of uttter darkness, only our darkness was lit occasionally by lightning. Well here we are tonight spending the balance of the night in the heart of the badlands. it is about midnight, the blankets spread on the railroad boarding house floor it is a new house and not yet finished, and the workmen on the road board here: the cars are not to go on further tonight so we will try to get a little rest before starting again in the morning.

August 29. this morning we boarded the cars again about 7 oclock and came the rest of the way, through the badlands. it was more pleasant by day they tell us we came over the worst of the road last it was grand today, high buttes in all shapes some places looking like a grove of stubs of verry large trees and lower stumps of trees. in two or three places we saw where the coal in the buttes were on fire probly set by some passing enjine. toward noon we came into quite an open country the buttes being farther from the R.R. sometime we would pass by what resembled a huge castle in ruins. A great menny of the buttes looked like verry large long haystacks, several close together, and others look like round stacks with quite a sharp peak, and others looked like the peak had been cut smoothe off leaving a flat top—others looked like someone had commenced a verry large square tower and when half built half of it had slid in a slanting way, leaving a half tower with one side higher than the other and verry sharp. Oh well it is almost impossible to describe it all, and how useless for me to try with my feble pen. near noon or perhaps it was just noon, as we cannot tell exactly, our watches all were run down we reached Glendive [Montana] near the yellowstone [River]. So now we are in the yellowstone country. When we got out of the cars at Glendive they said we could not go on to the end of the cars or road rather until three hours. so we went into the depot to wait. upon going into the depot we found it serving to double duty of depot and church. A couple of ministers were holding forth and were there for the purpose of organizing a sunday school at that place! We had no other place to stay from the hot sun so our families bundled in babies and all. the ministers seemed pleased at so large an addition to their congregation. So we sat on boards laid on boxes for seats, and joind in the singing the gospel songs so often sung in far distant Minnesota songs such as hold the fort and several other peices eaqually as familiar and so it seemed good to be there; so now we are really in Montana and in the regeon of the yellowstone river they tell us we will follow the Yellowstone for a great share of our journey. (oh but we are a great way from our destination yet) Glendive is a pretty bad place at present, like all border towns full of saloons and ruffians there is not a s[h]ingled house here, all canvas roof and a great many places are entirely built of canvas. this place is small now but they have great expectations of the future. in about three hours we boarded the cars again for the end of the track which we reached about four in the evening. here the cars that were loaded with our companys horses and goods, were switched off on a side track for us to unload. We could unload our waggons and other thing all but the horses who, poor beasts had been cramped up in a standing position, crowded together as tight as possible, for two days and three nights, the only way they could devise was to lash three or [four] telegraph poles (that were lying near) together with ropes, and rest one end of them on the ground the other on the car, thus they led them one by one down to the ground poor creatures they were verry tired I never saw horses so glad to roll and shake themselves. After they all had been cared for the men began to unload the goods. This place is verry pleasant, quite a stretch of level perarie and would make nice farms. In the distance the buttes of the badlands look blue and hazy. the sun is getting low and supper must be had so I must put up my writing for tonight.

August the 30th near the RR last night we did not get our waggons together although they got the goods unloaded, so we took possession of the empty car and made our beds in it. in the night an enjine backed the car we were in (with some flat cars attached) some 20 rods away from our camp. I did not know but they were going to run away from us at first. it frightened Lee pretty badly. He made the night musical for awhile but I soon quieted him after awhile! Well this morning the men commenced putting together the waggons and loading them. one of our horses is quite sick. think it must have hurt her rideing on the cars. poor old Nel! hope she will soon be better; and one of Hassetts horses has cut his ankle pretty badly with his picket rope. This afternoon the girls with Ben Dick and Allison went horseback after some plumgrapes and choke cherries. Allison and two of the men are sick (Allison quick sick) I do hope he will be better soon, so far away from civilization, it is terrible discouraging. Nell is no better tonight. it is quite cold tonight and looks like a storm. I have tried to bake a lot of bread for our onward journey. also have picked our things together so as to get them under cover at a moments notice. it is thundering now. our bedding is under shelter of our wagon covers. here it comes the rain and the little ones are crowding in the waggons so as to be out of the storm. Some of Hassetts goods are out yet they will get wet, it hails quite hard.

August 31. last night we had a terrible storm. some of the bedding got wet, but we managed to pull through the night. two of the men who went hunting yesterday afternoon came back about dark thoroughly drenched and with no game. they had been told that game was plenty near the hills but they found none; this forenoon finished packing the waggons and about 10:00 started again on our journey toward yellowstone valley. After going a mile and half we forded a verry swift stream called cedar creek it was a muddy stream and and a verry rocky bottom. from there we traveled some verry hilly country. today we saw antelope: dick tried to shoot some but could not get near enough. the girls gathered some plums, near a ravine. at the head of the ravine was a nice spring of cold watter. from there we climbed some very high sandy hills. after climbing those we passed over quite a stretch of level land, then decended more hills and climbed menny more until about half past six in the evening. we are now camped in a small valley we found here plenty of grass for the horses, and also water. it is a beautiful spot where we are now camped. beyond us we can see the yellowstone winding along close to the high buttes which here in places rise in a perfectly perpendicular line from the waters edge, on the oposite bank. the little valley we are now camped in is situated between high buttes, and is just large enough to make a small farm. twould be a pleasant place to live if one could have neighbors, but there is no human habitation for a great menny miles from here.

September the 1, 1881. it is just one month today since we left Fargo this morning we broke camp about nine oclock, traveled until nearly noon came to a creek, or small river called the Glendyve [probably O’Fallon Creek], the watter is so high from the recent rains that we cannot ford it. there are a great menny freighters waiting here for it to go down. we will have to spend the night here.

September 2. today has been quite plesant and warm, some of the freighters have struggled through so we thought we would do likewise. cannot afford to stop long in place as provisions will fall short. We now encamped in the Vallie of the Yellowstone on one side of us is the Vallie and River, and on the other are some very high Buttes the girls have climbed to the top of the highest, we have formed a circle with our waggons, at one side is the huge campfire from which we all cook. it looks quite cheerful, the girls have come back, and report the view of the vallie and River from the top of the butte as seen under the rays of the setting sun; it looked very pretty.

September 3. This morning we forded the powder river the water is very muddy but we all crossed in safty only up to the horses belleys. passed over some beautiful country, then climbed some very high hills, some of them we had to double the teams.

September 4. Today pass some more beautiful country, climbed some tall hills. We had to pay toll, had to double the teams, on both wagons and when we were up we were up, I can tell you among the clouds. Oh! it is terrible these hills. have another long pull. Camped tonight near Miles City in a dreary spot nearby on a knoll, are a couple of lonely graves, have seen some very large herdes of cattle today.

September 5. This morning about nine oclock we started on through Miles City, stopped awhile in town (Saw some one there Allison knew) then crossed tongue river which flows near the town. it is a clear swift stream, its banks are lined with large cottonwood trees. We then crossed some beautiful level country, six miles of it. passed Fort Kehow.5 here we crossed the Yellowstone on a rope ferry, or rather a flat boat propelled by putting on ropes, stretched across. it cost a dollar a team to cross, we are now on the north side of the River. we passed a flock of 300 sheep, waiting to be ferried across. here we had to climb some very steep and high buttes, met some Indians, of whom we bought some buffalo meat. The first we have had. they tell us there are a great many Indians ahead in the country we have to cross. we came over some more levil country, then more hills. the scenery was very beautiful here. came along the banks of the yellowstone passed over some beautiful natural meadows, where the herders had been herding their sheep. The meadows were as levil as though rolled with a roller. tonight are camped in a beautiful grove of cottonwood, on the river bank. there is abundance of grass for the horses.

September 6. Today is a very pleasant warm day, which seems so nice after the last few cool ones. Some of the men think this will be a good chance to rest the horses; and they go hunting buffalo, as this is such a good camping ground Allison and Hassett, also Dick start out. the first time Allie & Hasett have tried to hunt. They may be gone three or four days. today I will bake bread as it is early morning and the girls will do some washing. Tonight is a beautiful moonlight night and the girls and boys are making the woods ring with their shouts playing hide and goseek.

September 7. Passed a quiet night last night. it is bright and clear this morning, will be a warm day. What a pleasant spot this is, I dont wonder the Indians loved it, I believe if it was near inhabitants I would like to live here, but it is so wild and uncivilized. the girls are having a glorious time romping about.

September 8. Last night about midnight as they were all assembled around the campfire singing and telling riddles, the men came home tired and uncessful. the Indians have driven them so far back that it is useless to try for anything traveled untill they found it useless, then returned. so this morning we broke camp again, do not know as we will go far as our Nell horse is sick, she seemed sick last night is stiff all over, and can scarcely walk.

September 9. Today we have come rather slowly on our journey the day has been very warm and dusty. passed over a toll road there [are] a great many of them in this country on account of the bad hills. some man will fix a passable road over or around a bad Butte then build himself a cabin at the foot, then charge travelers from 50 cts. to $1.00 to pass over it. they get rich in this way. We came to the river about 4 oclock and camped for the night. our horses are tired, poor old Nell, if we should lose her it will be a great loss to us, as we are unable to replace her, some of the men have gone to hunt rabbits. they came to a ranch who had a yearling buffalo. the men bought him. killed him and instead of rabbits it is buffalo, and it is handy, as all hands are out of meat.

September 10. Started on our journey again this morning. during last night it commenced to rain and through the day we have had occasional showers, it was a windy, cold and dismal day altogether. with the sickness of our horse, it makes a person feel rather blue. We camp tonight in a beautiful grove, in the centre is a clear spot, and all around are tall cottonwood trees, and underneath is a perfect mass of rose bushes, their red buds, or seeds, look like red berries, they must have been a lovely sight when in bloom the country so far has splendid scenery and all that, but is unfit for homes. it looks rather dubious at present about our getting to our journey’s end on account of our horse’s sickness. there are 5800 sheep near us. they are going to drive them eastward, also 7000 cattle.

September 11. We have come about 13 miles today, and will camp here over sunday. there is an Indian encampment about a mile from us with 250 lodges. we met large numbers of them today, all mounted on nice fat poneis. they need not call them poor Indians they are better provided for than most poor white men. we are camped near the Yellowstone. We met another drove of cattle. another horse came near tiring out (Old Bill, though not very old). the reason for our camping so early. Allie spent his last penny for a box of crackers, price 25 cts. We are 50 miles west of Miles City. Some Indians have just come into camp, the horrid beggers.

Sunday 12. The day is drawing to a close, been a sunny warm day. I baked bread had good luck. An Indian came into camp this morning quite early. the men thought they would play a trick on him to get rid of him. The Indians are terribly afraid of sickness, and especially small pox, which is sure death to them. Ben hadent got up yet. he pretended to be sick and the rest stood around pretending great sympathy and giving him water from a cup. The Indian kept at a distance, and leaned over on his horse and looked at him a while then said ugh small pox and left a streak of dust behind him. The buffalo gnats are terrible thick, I shall have to close and get ready for night the sun is sinking behind castle butte. Today one of the men killed a rattlesnake, gathered lots of Buffalo Berries today, they are very nice. They are quite plenty in this country. Nelly horse no better.

Monday 13. Another days journey nearer the setting sun. Oh! what a lonely drear feeling comes over a person when they think how far they have drifted away from familiar scenes and loved ones, and are all alone in a strang new country. Traveled today about 18 miles, went slow on account of Nell, hate to leave her as she is much a favorite. we hope she will get better. We traveled a hard hilly road today. About 3 oclock we struck the river. we do not travel on it all the time but the road generally strikes it about noon and night there there were 30 lodges where we came near it today, with about one thousand ponies grazing near on the hillsides, and in the small valleys. We are camped tonight in a small valley and trying to cook some supper over a sage brush fire; one of the men of our company shot some sage hens. they are larger than perarie chickens. Oh for some vegetables. They are hard to find in this regeon. the night is setting in quite cool.

September 14th. We spent last night quite comfortably in the valley, although the Indian dogs and kyotes made considerable noise during the latter part of the night. last night there was a fine display of northern lights. Owing to the scarcity of water in the valley, we commenced our journey verry early in the morning, the first thing we climbed a verry long and tedious rainge of hills and just as we made the top of the last long hill the sun came over the tops of the distant buttes and valleys, and making a grand and beautiful scene. We rested the horses and enjoyed the view quite a spell. about 10 in the forenoon, we came to the river in a valley called Peas Bottom.6 distance from our last nights camp about 12 miles. We came down to the valley down the awfullest steep hill I ever went down the horses in places slid down on their haunches. here we found the largest belt of timber along the river we have seen on our journey. This valley is from a mile and half to 3 miles wide. We are camped tonight one mile from terrys landing. We are on a small Island surrounded by a broad shallow creek which we forded to get here. Allison traded poor Nelly horse today, to a ranchman, for a stout kyuse horse, he is small but tough and well and old Nell can travel no farther. the ranch man thinks if he turns her loose in a good pasture she will get well. Well good dear old Nell we hated to part with you for you have been a faithful friend in pleasant and likewise in stormy weather and we shed a tear at parting. Allison priced the grain here oats are 60 cts per bushel they pay 7 cts per bushel for threshing. Onions are 10 per pound, verry small ones at that. potatoes are 5 cts per pound, wheat 7 cts.

September 15. today being Sunday we concluded to rest on this Island, until tomorrow two of the men went hunting today about dark one of them came into camp with a fine black tail deer which he had shot the other man has not in yet. I baked bread today and the girls did some washing and this afternoon they gathered some wild grapes which grow near in great plenty. tonight they are invited to a social gathering at a familys by name of Green the people around here are anxious for us to settle here but there are too menny Indians for me I dont think I would like them as neighbors.

September 16. well this morning we commenced climbing the everlasting hills again we left the valley about 9 in the morning passed today several cattle ranches. the houses are low dirt covered structures with floors to match it is owing to the scarcity of lumber and shingles that makes them build their houses so. Some of the people are verry wealthy in cattle & horses. The road has been a hard one today owing to the deep sharp pitches in them caused by the action of storms and water at sortie distant time. We crossed the ferry at Terrys landing a little before noon, to the south side again. they charged 2 dols a team on this side of the river it has been some pleasanter, but before comeing to the river we passed some beautiful sandstone cliffs that looked as if hewn smoothe. they were in places near 5000 feet perpendicular. at the ferry we met ready to cross about 6 or 8000 indians oh what an immense herd of moving living men women papooses, dogs, ponies and filth oh! ugh! augh! terrible, awful, we are now on the indian reservation.

September 17. We have come over some verry hard road up hill and downhill, until afternoon and then we reached the river again we have come over some terrible steep high hills today they tell us there is worse ahead of us. This afternoon we have come over a better country. We are camped tonight (that is Allison and I dick and my children) in a beautiful grove near the river the other teams that [were] with us are gone further on they think of going up the Judith Basin near by us is an immense rock about five acres square. it is a great natural curiosity. it is called Pompeys pillar.7 it is perfectly square and quite perpendicular on all sides and is 500 feet high, stands about 50 feet from the river bank. there it stands all alone in its glory no other rock or hill near. it is formed of hard sandstone. We have camped early on account of our hard days drive.

September 18. this morning we were all quite well rested have spent a quiet night the horses seem well rested too they had good pasturage we drove 25 miles today over verry good roads. Then we came to another ferry, and here we overtook Hasset again. We crossed the Yellow Stone river, and are now off the reservation, and I am very glad of it too, as I dont fancy the Indians. there are so many bad looking scamps among them.

September 19. Today is Sunday again. we are resting, not far from the river, plenty of wood water, & grass. last night we ate the last bread we had and the men have to go for more. they rode to a ranchman, and hired out to him for a few days, thrashing. he let Allison have some flour & potatoes. as we have some venison left, we are getting along nicely. We will move our camp this afternoon, near his house which is 3 miles from here. We are to move so as to be near the work. the place is called Huntly where we crossed the river.

September 20. Well here we are near the Ranchman’s house. this place is the battlefield of General Baker, where he fought the Indians in 74.8 Today has been a nice warm day, lovely Indian summer, large numbers of Indians have visited the ranche today.

September 21. The thrashing machine hasent come yet. Today has been equally as beautiful as yesterday. have spent the day in sewing and getting the meals. I hope the weather will continue to be as pleasant as it has been lately. The Yellow Stone people are kind hospitable people. The thrashing machine will be here in the morning

September 22. Another beautiful day. The thrashing machine came at noon, and they have thrashed some. Every man has to pack his own bed. The family’s name is Reed and consists of Mr. Mrs. 2 daughters and some young men.

September 23. Still continue to have pleasant weather. The thrashing is nearly done, and if nothing happens we will be able to start on our journey again tomorrow.

September 24. Today about 2 oclock we started from the rancho and traveled over a very steep hilly road. passed a small villiage called Coulson. came to the River about 5 oclock, and are camped now, in a beautiful cottonwood grove, where there is plenty of forage for our horses. We have come today about 10 miles the place or rather valley we are camped is called Clarks fork.9 this is the largest valley we have traveled on the yellowstone the widest part of the valley is 15 miles to forty long. it is a pleasent looking valley with some nice looking ranches. spent a pleasant evening and night at this place.

September 25. Today we have come through a pleasant country. passed some nice ranches and climbed some steep hills. Have come in sight of the snow capped moutnains. the wind has blown rather hard and the dust has flew in our faces all the forenoon. About noon we stopped at a bachelors hut and cooked our dinner tonight we are stopping in an empty hut near the river. it is quite cold and we have built a huge fire in the stone fire place which is quite pleasant.

September 26. today has been quite cold and windy with occasional showers of rain and sleet we have climbed more [hills?] and came down another about a mile long. and in places very steep then we came to the yellowstone again and another valley. Along this place there [are] occasional small islands in the river covered to the waters edge with cottonwoods. We are camped in a natural meadow near the base of the long hill that we came down. it is verry cold and frosty, rather a disagreeable night for camping.

September 27. Started from camp on the meadow this morning, verry cold and windy. I thought we had climbed high hills and went down them but oh when you got among the clouds then a person can call that high and the poor horses show it too. They cannot hold out at this rate long. In the forenoon it was nice roads, but directly after dinner we commenced to climb the buttes. Oh the sharp pitches, now up then down had to lock all the wheels in places going down then all hand walk going up to lighten the load, with one behind each waggon with a good sized stone to block the wheels, when we had to let the horses stop to rest, poor horses they had to pull terrible. Altogether it has been hard for man and beast. One redeeming quality the roads had this afternoon was there were no ruts in the road. they were smooth but long and steep both up and down. Montana is rightly continual mount and valleys between. these hills have nice pine timber on them there is splended views in this territory. When you have climbed some high butte the view well repays the labor of climbing. well tonight we are camped in a small vale among the everlasting hills. the poor horses they are nearly done out. We are near a stage station on a creek called white beaver.

September 28. started from white beaver creek quite late on account of the horses straying so far during the night. it froze quite hard during the night ice formed on the stillest part of the creek. forded the creek at two other places during the forenoon and afterward climbed hills the rest of the day we are camped now late in the afternoon near clear spring station 80 miles from Bozeman. the horses are nearly played out and ourselves too. We have a good view here of the snow covered mountains and before we get to bozeman we have to cross a renge of the mountains.

September 29. today we started early in the morning to a place called sweet grass a small valley through runs a creek full of nice trout here they (our men folks) met a man at a small store, whose name is Harrison who told them that himself and brother wanted to hire an irrigating ditch cut wider and that he and brother would pay well to get the work done and likewise he had a large pasture and abundance of grass in it. we could let our horses run in it a few weeks and as the horses are of the first consideration (being almost used up) and we are also entirely out of funds and provisions the men conclude to stop awhile. so here we are camped in a pleasant grove near Mr. Harrison’s house.

September 30. Today Allison has taken Harrisons horses and gone to Bozeman to get provisions before commencing work. Bozeman is 75 miles from here. it is quite cold with every sign of storm.

October 1. last night snowed some but long before noon the snow was melted away. the distant mountains are white though and look cold in the afternoon sun rather disagreeable and sloppy.

October 2. rained last night. about 10 Allison came back. One of the horses he took came home during the night from where he had camped for night. he took another horse and started back again to where he had left the other horse and waggon and will now continue his journey to bozeman if nothing further prevents.

October 3. Today was quite pleasant and the girls did some washing. Harrison Ron and dick have gone hunting near some mountains called the Crazys. there is plenty of game so Harrison tells us. we are alone in camp and waiting anxiously for Allison to come back from Bozeman. it is verry lonely here in a strange place without him.

October 4. The hunters have returned from their hunt brought home a fine bear of a specie called silver tip, also Allison came back from his trip made quick time

October 5. rained again last night. the men commenced work on the ditch. the horses have good pastureage, and they hope they will gain some strength by the rest, also flesh as they are verry poor. They have need of it to climb over the bozeman range when we start on again. I baked bread in Mrs. Hs stove which seemed nicer than baking by the camp fire.

October 6. today has been verry pleasant Alice with Mr & Mrs Harrison went trout fishing. they brought home some of the largest and best trout I ever ate. they are different than our brook trout in Wis. & Minn, having black spots. Olive got the meals for the men.

October 7. last night it stormed and rained all night toward morning, a messinger came to Mr. H. with a note from a man who lives two miles from here, telling him that some 17 head of his horses (Harison has a good number of them) was in a pasture belonging to John Webb. Harrison thought that verry strange as he and brother had been down to the pasture a day or two before and found them all right also our horses were with them. Harrison brothers farms join, and their stock run together also a neighbors four head of horses, named Laroche. There were some 2000 worth of horses altogether (after receiving this news he posted down to his brothers and they went together to the big pasture. they found only four head of horses left in the pasture, that had come back or rather escaped in the storm and darkness of the previous night, for they found the further bars to the pasture let down and the horses gone. they say it is the work of indians. Harrison brothers, and a neighbor started on the trail of the redskins and horses, breathing vengance dire upon the marauders if they should come up with them: we heard in a day or two that they the Hs. were joined by several of cowboys who are a tough set of men to deal with, and All. H. is an indian scout used to their ways. they will show the thieves no mercy if they find them. this morning another of our horses and three of Hs came back to the ranch. got away during the night from their captors, and near noon a man came leading back another of Allisons horses. he had dropped behind during the previous night being unable to keep up with the rest, so we have ours all back but one.

October 8. Today is a warm pleasant day. Four more of H. horses came home during last night broke from Hoffs pasture where the 17 head were when H. got the news. there is great excitement about this affair as they are quite sure it is the work of indians and they fear a raid on the flocks in other parts it seems the indians have stolen Horses in this section and the adjoining country a year or two before, and some of them have been heard to boast that they would set the whole country afoot yet they (the people) think they have commenced to try it. in the raids they have made previously they have stolen and drove off every head of horses some of the settlers possessed. they think it the work of the crow indians and half breeds backed by the squaw men, a vile set of men who are living with squaws. if caught they will have a hard time as there is only one law in this country for horse theives.

October 9. cook sew and work all quiet around here nothing heard today about the men after the indians. We are all very anxious. heard from our other horse she was seen by some of the cowboys grazeing alone near a creek some 10 miles away dick will go after her in the morning. hope he will get her as it would be impossible for us to get on without her.

October 10. the excitement continues about the horses. every day some one rides over to talk about the one topic of the day the news came today that two others have lost horses. further down the valley and on the same night that they did the stealing here it seems a preconcerted affair, a regular band of theives. dick came in toward night with our last horse I am afraid they will not be much rested.

October 11. well the days go slowly by cook sew and work. Alice & Mrs. H. went fishing got a large string of trout verry fine ones.

October 12. Ollie has gone today toward bozeman to a Mrs. Hoppers who sent for her. Mrs. Harrison and I took her over to the stage station. she will take the stage tonight and will stay until we come along and it will be pleasanter for her than camp life.

October 13. the men continue working on the ditch it is quite cold nights and mornings looks like a storm tonight

October 14. havent heard from absent men for a day or two it has been snowin so much the last day or two that the men had to stop work. it looks like clearing up tonight. the snow in the valley is about a foot deep makes it dissagreeable in the camp. it will soon off we are in hopes, then it will be much better.

October 15. Mrs. H. has received a note today from one of the cowboys that he brought from her husband stating that they were on the track of the robbers. he was quite a distance from home would follow them into the british possessions if they did not overtake them before. he said the robbers were rushing along fast that the indians were driving the horses over all the stony ground they could in order to leave no trail if possible but H. is used to their ways and can track them easy enought. the snow is melting off fast. Mrs. H. kindly allows me the use of her sewing machine. she verry restless about her husband, and takes long rides every day or two to learn if possible enny news from the absent ones. she is a splended horsewoman.

October 16. the days are about the same cool nights pleasant days though damp under foot. the men are progressing with the ditch.

October 17. Alice and Mrs. H. went horseback riding today they had a pleasant ride. There came today a large band of indians on the opposite side of the yellowstone from us they are friendly indians so Mrs. H. says: they are called Bannocks we can see them plainly from here. they have their tents up tonight and we can hear them yelling and their dogs barking and they are beating their buffalo hide drums. one neighbor who lives a half mile from here feels uneasy about them think they will be killed. I stop nights in the house instead of covered waggon it is so cold for the little ones.

October 18. today Mrs. H. and myself visited a sick woman who has been bedfast several months it doesnt seem much to be the matter with her I think she is more discouraged than enny thing else she needs cheerful company the most of ennything

October 19. nothing of interest has happened nothing but busy moments sewing cooking working on the ditch. the indians are gone from the other side they are going on a grand hunt. I visited today the other Mrs. Harrison she is sister to the Mrs. H. we are camped near. they do not live far apart they own a large number of cows and have made a great deal of cheese and butter during the summer. sena stays with her while her husband is away

October 20. today was very cool. we took another visit to the sick woman then came back by the dutchmans house a dutch bachelor he has killed a beef, and he gave each of us some, which was verry nice, also some rutabagas, and Mrs. H. a squash, which she says she will make some pies with then came home and got supper.

October 21. Today has been bright pleasant Alice & Allie took the mens dinner to them as they have been doing every noon now for a long time on account of their working such a distance from camp. Allie has been helping a man dig his potatoes. ben went away yesterday to help a man dig his potatoes will be back soon. Allison and Dick keep on with the ditch they think they will soon be through now this place.

October 22. Ben came back last night they have allmost completed the ditch Ben and dick each shot a goose game is verry plenty—ducks geese trout and in the hills bear and elk are plenty.

October 23. last night we were sitting around the light reading when we heard some one calling over towards Wabe Hs. Mrs. A Harrison went over Alice went with her when they came over their they found Wabe and Warren Larouche come back from the chase. When they had got a long distance from home they found they should not overtake the thieves, and they thought as All H. was the best shot and rider that he and one other should keep on, and Wabe should go back to the ranches and look after the familys and what was left and the other men to about their own work as it would not require so menny to go after the horses. Wabe reports that after they had been out two days they came one morning upon the body of one off All. H.s best yearling colts it was so large of its age that they had undertaken to ride it and it wouldnt go so they in anger had killed it. Wabe said all had thought so much of that especial colt as it was a great pet, that he actually shed tears of grief and rage. Mrs. H. cried like a child when she heard of it.

October 24. Well the time is passing and we will soon be on the road again. Got a letter and wrote one to Ollie. she reports a pleasant trip. the people are very kind to her. The people in this country are very kind and hospitable. they are anxious we should settle in this country but Allison has set out to meet his brother in Helena, who he has not met in 25 yr and so we will go on. I [like] this vallie very much.

October 25. Still the days come and go. the weather continues fine. if it were not that they have too many Indians for neighbors, I should like to live in this place

October 26. My sewing is all done, and I have commenced getting my things in shape to start on again. Alice and I have washed up our clothes, so as to be clean once more. This camp life is a dirty one. Cooking over a camp fire is plesant when one gets used to it, and know how. we get along verry well.

October 27. Today I have baked a large quantity of bread to take along to eat on our journey the men think they will be through about noon tomorrow. Ally has put the boxes on our waggons. We had set the box cover and all off under the trees it was handier so much easyer to climb into while in camp have everything packed away. Mrs. H. has received another letter from her husband today said they had tracked the wily reds to the line and beyond and had secured the services of the sheriff to take them and the horses too it is now after supper and we are sitting by the camp fire the Mr & Mrs Wabe H. are here and the girls, with the exception of Ollie, are singing, seeming to enjoy themselves hugely.

October 28. We started this afternoon on our journey toward Helena. Ben and dick have concluded to stay in this valley a while longer. Mr. H has not returned yet. we have come this afternoon 7 miles the wind has blown cold and in our faces all the way. we are stopping tonight in a mans house by the name of Coe, verry pleasant people.

October 29. Traveled today over some very rough hilly road. the wind has blown cold in our faces all day. are stopping tonight at Hunters hot springs10 took a bath in the bath house it is verry warm and warmed us through, which seemed pleasant after our cold ride. the steam is rising in the frosty air in clouds verry curious. these springs a hot spring by the side of a cold one and the stream from each flows together into and through the bath house making the water in the bath room just warm enough. there are a great menny of these springs in Montana.

October 30. Today was sunday, but as the days are growing colder we concluded to move on we have climbed and decended high hills all day; this afternoon it rained all the afternoon and it was after dark before we reached our present stopping place, at a private house. their name is Bowers. Ugh such a night dismal and cold and muddy. today I am 37 years old.

October 31. Last night during the night the rain turned to snow, and the ground is white and it has snowed more today which made it unpleasant and cold riding. We are stopping at Hoppers station11 tonight where Ollie is. she was verry glad to see us as we were her. they would like to keep her here but we cannot think of leaving her behind. Oh we are to cross the range tomorrow a part of the rocky mountain I fear we will have a hard time it is snowing yet and will be hard traveling in the snow and mud.

November 1. Another weary day has come to a close, and how can I describe the weary misery of this day at early morning we started with our family two teams and waggons to cross the range at the foot of the range was a house where two men lived. they told us of a road around the end of the range that was 6 miles further traveling but would be easier traveling for our horses as we would escape some verry high climbing, and as the road was verry slippery and muddy would be better for us to go around. so we started around and the girls said they would walk over the range they and Lewis, Allie and father drove the teams and I and the little ones rode; well they walked over the highest range and met us about midway; where there was a station kept by a german and where we got us some dinner. they (the girls) had waded a creek, and as the snow was melting and it was slushy and muddy they were wet to the waist their shoes were wet and it was cold. well all this afternoon we have climbed and slipped several times stuck fast in the mud, and had a hard time starting again. Allison would get his team up a long muddy hill then wade back to the other team and urge that up, while the girls and boys plodded on foot sometimes nearly to the waist in snow; all this dreary day it was the same climb and climb, urging the tired horses up one terrible hill slipping and toiling along, then gaudeing [goading] them down another untill as night began to fall we began the long desent. we came at the foot after dark, to a ranch, where we asked to stay all night (it was about nine in the evening) the woman only was at home. she said the family could get housed, but there was no place in the stable for the horses. so the poor beasts had to stand out in the snow all night. gracious here we were huddled all in one little low log hut the snow watter drip driping down all night through the mud covered roof, and down the sides of the house it was dismal indeed the horses I think had the best of it, the girls are wet and their father too, but we managed to find some dry undergarments and I made a little tea over a smoky stove with green pine wood, which revived us a little as we huddled down on our blankets all that miserable night with the music of the dripping water to lull us to sleep but verry little sleep we got except what tired nature compelled us to.

November 2. well with the first streak of day we were up and folding our damp blankets I made another kettle of lukewarm tea and with a little bread and meat we managed to still the cravings of hunger, then loaded our effects harnessed the poor horses to the waggons again and started toward Bozeman which we could see from where we stayed last night the road to B. was pleasant verrry pleasant compared to the journey over the range, though we climbed two pretty long high hills before reaching Bozeman, which we did about noon here we did some tradeing getting some shoes for some nearly naked feet and laid in a supply of provisions of which we were greatly in need. we are now in the gatletin [Gallatin] valley a verry nice looking country compared to what we have passed.

November 3. passed a quiet night last night and rested good so today we all felt quite well. forded the Gatletin river twice and came over some pleasant country passed a nice country church, and some good hay ranches, beside other ranches, good for farming. Are stopping tonight at ranchmans by the name of Nicols. there is a large hog ranch joining this. they grow large fields of peas to feed their hogs upon. this is a beautiful place. we have come over some curious looking country since mounting the range, high abrupt hills, deep pitches then a stretch of smooth valley then some rough pitchey road again with abrupt jogs in the road that look as if they were the bed of some mountain torrent as doubtful they were. there are a great menny patches of alkali dust through this valley which I do not much like the looks of.

November 4. we have traveled some verry rough country again today, and likewise smoothe country or that we came to after climbing some high hills came toward night to radersburg a small Burg, among the hills, which will be a large place at no distant day. we are stopping tonight in an empty log house, near a ranchmans and on the ranchmans place.

November 5. have come today over crow creek range the ground all the way over was red, but the most curious part of the road was the harness and the covers on the waggons looked green caused by copperas12 in the soil while travelling over it we are stopping tonight at a place called bedford, in another empty house it is quite cold tonight.

November 6. this has been a verry cold windy day all day it seemed as if we would freeze the wind blowing cold and in our faces, making it hard pulling as it made it uncomfortable for us. we are stopping tonight at what is called the half way house, about 13 miles from Helena, so one more day will close our weary wandering at least for awhile. I really hope.

November 7. This morning we started verry early. we came over some hilly and some rough rocky road, about eleven we came in sight of Helena. As seen at a distance it is a pleasant sight, but after reaching the city (except for some verry fine and even some splendid mansions and business houses) it did not look so pleasant as at a distance. the ground is very rough and gulleyed as it is built over an old mineing place. we reached our brothers house about one oclock. they received us verry kindly which made us feel very pleased as our wandering has been a long hard one and to be welcomed so pleasantly, especially as we were in not good trim. after our rough travel by waggons and by camp fires we were dusty weary and tanned and it seemed like getting home will stay in Helena all winter and Allison will look us out a home, a home! how welcome a resting place will be I like the looks of Allisons brother & family. I never have seen them before, nor has Allison ever seen his brothers wife before she seems a verry pleasant person I hope we will be great friends

my journal of our wanderings over the plains of Minn, Dakota and the yellowstone valley in Montana is at an end. it is very imperfect but oweing to our mode of traveling and my chance for writing I have done the best I could

Lucy J. Allen

Helena

Lewis & Clarke Co

Montana

November 7, 1881

1 “The years immediately preceding anti following 1880 mark a transition point in Minnesota’s wheat trade. The center of wheat production shifted from the southwestern to the northwestern part of the state. The main outline of the railway system was completed. Two new primary markets, Minneapolis and Duluth, rose to prominence. The new-process milling, which developed in the state, made a change in the relative value of winter and spring wheat in favor of Minnesota, the great spring-wheat state.“ Henrietta M. Larson, The Wheat Market and the Farmer in Minnesota, 1858–1900. Columbia University Studies in History, Economics and Public’ Law (New York, 1926), pp. 118–120.

2 President James A. Garfield was shot in the back on July 2, 1881, in the railway station in Washington, D.C. He died on September 19.

3 “Taking the cars” was the language used in those days for “taking the train.”

4 The badlands is an area in western Dakotas about twenty miles wide and some 200 miles long north and south. The land had been cut up by stream erosion into fantastic buttes and canyons.

5 Fort Keogh was located on the southeast bank of the Yellowstone River in eastern Montana. It was built in 1876. It was designated by this name in 1878. It was named for Captain Myles W. Keogh who had been killed in the Battle of the Little Big Morn on June 25, 1876. Robert W. Frazer, Forts of the West (Norman, Oklahoma, 1965), p. 82.

6 Fort Peas was a trading post for furs of all kinds established near the mouth of the Bighorn. The trade was mainly with the Crow Indians. The post was named for Major F.D. Pease. Mark H. Brown, The Plainsmen of the Yellowstone (Lincoln, Nebraska, 1961), pp. 220–221.

7 Pompey’s Pillar is an isolated mount 200 feet high, located on the south bank of the Yellowstone River. It was named by William Clark of the Lewis and Clark expedition on July 25, 1806. He gave it this name in honor of little Pomp, the child of Sacajawea and Charbonneau. Clark carved his own name on the rock. American Guide Series, Montana (New York, 1949), p. 193.

8 Major E.M. Baker was in command at Fort Ellis, a minor post in the Yellowstone Valley. There was an attack by Sioux and Cheyennes on his post, and the men were playing poker, so it was dubbed the “Battle of Poker Flat.” The major, himself, is said to have been drunk during the battle. This affair is well described by Mark H. Brown, op. cit., pp. 196–201.

9 Of the Yellowstone River.

10 Dr. Andrew Jackson Hunter settled at this locale in 1864. He had come to Montana seeking gold. He named the hot springs for himself. He was from Missouri. Brown, op. cit., p. 336.

11 Hugo Hoppe was an Indian trader, accused of selling liquor to the Crow Indians. Brown, op. cit., pp. 337, 434.

12 Ferrous sulfate.