Kansas to Oregon, 1883
Sarah J. Collins
INTRODUCTION
The diary of Sarah J. Collins is an enjoyable one. Mrs. Collins had an eye for detail and the ability to express herself naturally and clearly. She also had a good sense of humor, waxing mildly sarcastic in regard to small town pretensions and minor human failings. Her record of travel is of particular interest to this writer because it precedes completion of the Oregon Short Line-Oregon Railway and Navigation Company link with Union Pacific by a year, thus nearly marking the end of enforced wagon traffic into the Pacific Northwest over the Oregon Trail route. Much of the land described by Sarah seems empty to her, but it is definitely no longer a wilderness. The roads are generally good; feed, provisions and services are available along the way; the railroad is under construction.
In Idaho the Collins party followed an early alternative route to the Oregon Trail, the Goodale Cutoff, across southern Idaho. It was a shorter route than the main trail along the Snake River and traversed some very grim country between Arco and the Boise Valley, following a narrow space between the mountains and the lava beds. The country made a strong impression on Sarah. Even here the conditions were far better than in the 1850’s and ’60’s.
John C. Collins was born March 1, 1844. According to the 1900 Census, his birthplace was Illinois; his father was born in Ohio and his mother in North Carolina. This information may be incorrect. The 1860 Territorial Census of Kansas lists a John C. Collins, age 15, born Ohio, living with the James A. Lock family— as was Mathias Collins, age 8, also born Ohio. These people were living in Bourbon County. Crawford County, in which John and Sarah Collins lived, was created from Bourbon County in 1867 in southeast Kansas.
Sarah J. Casey was born April 6, 1845 and her birthplace, according to the 1900 Census, was Iowa; her parents were both born in Kentucky.
John and Sarah were married about 1870; their home was in or near McCune, Crawford County, Kansas. John was a farmer. There is nothing in Sarah’s diary to indicate the reasons why they came west, why they chose North Powder, Oregon, as their destination, or whether they already had relatives in the area. In 1893, ten years after their arrival, the tax list amount for J.C. Collins (in Polk’s Eastern Oregon Directory No. 1) was $1, 220.00, indicating that he was a substantial landholder. John and Sarah were childless; the 1900 Census states that Sarah had never had children. In 1900 her mother, Susan K. Casey (born Kentucky February 1826) was living with them. Susan indicated to the census taker that she was the mother of ten children, seven of whom were still living. C.K. Casey, one of the seven adults in the Collins party, may have been Sarah’s brother and was probably the “Charlie” referred to in the diary. He apparently did not settle in Oregon. Sarah also had a sister living in Baker but when she arrived there is not known at this point.
By 1903 the amount given in the tax list section of the directory, under John Collins, had dropped to $550.00, indicating that he had reduced his holdings. In 1905 the amount was $665.00 and, in the same year, Sarah J. Collins paid taxes ($20.00) on property in Haines—perhaps the home of her mother. Haines had been started in 1883, the year the Collins party arrived in the area, and their farm may have been as close to it as to North Powder, although the latter was given as their address. The directory for 1908–09 lists only S.J. Collins, $175, Haines, in the tax list section. This may refer to the homes of both Sarah and her mother.
John C. Collins died January 23, 1909. Sarah J. Collins died of a stroke March 14, 1913 at the depot at Haines; a sister, Mrs. I.J. Herrmann of Baker, was with her when she died. The funeral was held from the home of her mother, Susan Casey, of Haines. Susan lived until 1917. All three are buried in the Haines Cemetery and have handsome monuments carved in granite that was hewn from the Haines quarry.
Sarah’s diary has been edited with a minimum of changes. Her spelling is at times inventive, but not enough so as to cause much confusion. I have inserted letters or words in a few places where clarification seemed necessary, and have omitted any punctuation that did not seem to fit. Her thoughts have been separated by providing an extra space between words, wherever this seemed appropriate in order to clarify her meaning.
The diary is a typical pocket memorandum book of the period, leatherbound, with two flaps that fold over; the pages are rag paper, ruled with blue lines. The diary is written in ink.1 A tintype group photograph in a pocket may depict some of the people mentioned in Sarah’s diary.
OVERLAND DIARY OF SARAH J. COLLINS
Items from McCune, Crawford Co. Kansas to Baker Co. Oregon.
May 1, 1883 our party of 7: J.C. Collins and Wife, C.K. Casey, L. Carnes, W. Jackson, J. Edmiston and Wife, bid a dieu to Parents Brothers Sisters and Friends eat dinner at Osage Mission, Camped in 3 miles of Era [ Erie] the Co Seat of Neosho a dull place a Family Camped here from Barry Co Mo. who had a sick horse
May 2. Our Neighbors Horse is better this morning, but not able to travel. Eat dinner at big Creek and Camped on Cole Creek 2 miles from Humbolt [Humboldt] a Lovely Place to Camp a spring on the bank of the Creek.
May 3 Fish for breakfast Humbolt a Nice Town went 3 or 4 miles saw a sign Cats for Sale Came to a new Town Houses all new name Pickaway [Piqua] where Will saw the Train giveing a Cow the Bumping degree, next Town Neosho Falls was disapointed heare expected to see the grandest sight of our Trip saw two finly dressed Indian Ladies on the streets theire was an arch over the gateway of the Fair Grounds with the words in Blue and gilt letter, Welcom. I supose in honor of President Hayes and Governor St John I think McCune has grounds for feeling slited Cool adn misting all day
May 4. LeRoy the first Town in Coffe[y] Co is a nice one. Burlington the County Seat is a Beautiful place situated on the west side of the Neosho River, from the appearence of the Place I think they Enforce the Temperance Law. we traveled a bout five miles from Burlington Camped in a lane the Boyes made a Big Camp Fire and three men visited our Camp they was very much opposed to St John and Temperance and of Cours every other good Law, and said Preachers and theire Families was the worst people in the Neighborhood John saide we wasent a fraide to Campe theire then they went home in a worse humor than the[y] Come.
May 5. went through two little Towns to day Strawn and Hartford Coffe[y] is the best County we have traveled through yet Some splendid Farmes. Lyon County is pretty Country thi[n]ley settled I stood up in the Waggon twice to day while on high ground and Counted thirteen Houses each time
May 6. Camping to day on Cotton wood three miles from Emporia the Boyes saw some Black Squirrels today. Six other Waggons Come into Camp nice looking jermans the women had a dutch roundup.
May 7. Emporia is a Large Town, they drink Beear hear and Sprinkle the Watter on theire streets had the Pleasure hear of shaking hand with Elder Kelley of the ME Church next town Americus next one Dunnlap in Morris Co. have seen Considerable Rock, only seen two Fields of good Wheat plenty of good Watter
May 8. Camped on Big John Creek Fish for Breakfast. J. Edmiston’s Cousin visited our Camp this morning Council Grove the Co. Seat of Morris the pri[n]ciple part of Town is on the west side of Neosho River, some good Land near Town they put theire Corn in with Listers Claime to raise 80 Bushel to the Acre, after leaveing the Grove we saw Some young Mountains the Boyes went on one to take a last look at McCune eat dinner on Large Creek a Spring in the Bank. Parkerville and White Citty are small Towns we see a great deal of Wild Land I think it will remain so for some time. High winds to day they all have Winde mills they get some good of the winds that goes to waist have seen some KS Plaines this Afternoon Counted houses twisce 8 or 10 once and some of them looked to be 10 miles a way drove late to get wood and watter.
May 9. Saw some verry nice Country and some very rough Crossed Republican River at Junction Citty saw some young Rocky Mountains the Vallies look nice eat dinner on Smokey Creek one mile from Junction Citty the Co Seat of Davis [Geary] a poor Country sand Valleys Rockey hills Camped on four mile Creek.
May 10. a little better Country to day more Settlements dinner on Timber Creek, saw several good Fields of Wheat they say they raise Corn to Burn but sell it for 35 ct. a bushel.
May 11. Camped on dry Creek last knight Clay Center County Seat of Clay is a nice Place and has a good Country arounde it. good many large Cribes of Corn, Wheat looks well they fence with Cotton wood Trees seem to be large Landowners
May 12. Camped on Parson Creek. Clifton a nice town Part in Clay and a part in Washington Counties next Town Clyde in Cloude Co a pretty Country arounde it. the Country near the Republican River is very Sandy
May 13. washed yesterday afternoon on Elm a rain last knight the wind so high had to take down the tent until knight a visit from Scotchman
May 14. Cool Clouded up and the Coldest day we have had Concordia the Co. Seat of Cloude is a thriveing Town
May 15. Camped in a Lane good watter picked up limbes a long the lanes a good deal of range not much Stock on it Scandia a nice little Town in Republic Co. Shade Trees in Town and on Farmes. Republic Citty 2 years olde nearly all sod Houses to day
May 16. Camped near as little Town Hardy just across the line in Nebraskey next Town Superior, very nice lookeing Country hauld our Wood high winds Counted Houses seven and a Schoolhouse
May 17. harde rain this morning lay up untill noon a hilley roade and windy seen 178 Box Cars Standing at a small Station
May 18. Camped at Red Cloude we see they have no Temperance Law heare It is the County Seat and only Town in County. Very windy the people live in the Pockets or under the hills Sod Houses plastered and lookes very nice inside some nice house plants very nice people the[y] had two Violins J. Edmiston and a Son of theirs favored us with some music saw our first Dog Town to day and a Wolf, and Camped on Blue Creek.
May 19. some good Country to day high winds and misting three other waggons Come up with us plenty watter no wood use Cornstalkes and Buffalow Chips.
May 20. our Company went on and we are keeping Sabbath. windy to day we are in sight of one house
May 21. heard Ho[r]sethieves had been heare lately Sat up last knight and watched our Teams Cool and Clear the people are gathering corn Plowing and planting Corn a nice looking Country but nothing to burn but stalks of Corn, sod houses Minden a very nice little Town, very rough Country Plat River up a bridge 1 mile long met 5 or 6 Teams on it wasent very safe. Camped at Kearney a very stirring Place saw some movers with Cattle in Harness, no settlements in Platt Valley they are digging a large ditch I suppose for I rigating the Valley good roades no windes traveling along the U P.R. Roade Hay 20 cents a bunch
May 23. a level road some mud holes. Plum Creek2 a very nice Town next Town Cozad a station named for a man from Sincinnatti who ownes land build a Brick hotel and School house potatoes 28 cents a bushel, lookes like a Chain of Sande hills along south of us. next Town Gothens Burg [Gothenburg], a little Better Country we can see three covered waggons on the south side of Platt we see a great many Sheep on the Range as the tra[i]ns pass us the Passengers waive theire handerkerchief at us.
May 25. Camped last knight near the River Rail Roade and Sandhills only House a Section House the Ladies visited our Camp. Cool to day a fiew muddy places rain this afternoon Camped at North Platt Citty this eavening. the Bridge across the River is over a half mile long. Traines and Waggons Cross on the same one this is the finest Town we have seen William Coady [Cody], Buffalow Bill, lives heare.
May 26. it raines every [day] heare plenty Coal, wood and watter along the Rail Roade
May 27. Camped at OFallons [O’Fallon’s Bluff]3 to day five other Teams Come up with us heare. we Saw our first Antilope heare a drove of one thousand head of Cattle passed us to day and theire is 2200 on behind a good many Cattle and Sheep one the range they dont raise enything heare just let theire stock live or die on the range a good many die 10 Waggons in Camp to knight theire was one hundred Camped heare last Sundy. theire is small gnats that nearley eat our Teames and us too up.
May 28. saw a Dog Town of 30 or 40 Acres. Camped near the River and Rail Roade not a House in sight
May 29. 5 Families of us now 29 persons a Family laying over with a sick Horse good roades Cool and misty grass very Poor we hearde that two mules and two Horses was Stole in North Platt last knight
May 30. Frost last knight Ice this morning in the Buckett some sand hills this morning good roades this afternoon
May 31. Camped 4 [?] miles in Colerado4 last knight we leave the Platt to day and go up Pole Creek, we had more visitors last knight our Tent was Full had Violin harp and Vocal music.
June 1st. pleasant this morning good roades we are in Pole Creek Valley saw Cattle Men having a rounde up. went into Camp early a shower was coming
June 2. pleasant to day saw a garden and a little Patch of Oats in Sidney [Nebraska] to day head quarters for the Armey our first soldiers. 450 heare
June 4. one of our Company killed a Antilope harde rain yesterday Cool to day another Antilope to day
June 5. high winds to day saw a man planting something a Garden I suppose
June 6. Camped two miles in Wyoming last knight about noon to day w[e] got a Sight of the Rockey Mountains Longs Peak they look like Blue and white Cloudes only more pointed, we saw 7 Antilopes in a drove running over the hills, we saw five thousand Sheep in a drove. Camped near a Tank and an Irish Woman wouldent let them have Watter for theire Horses dident want us to Camp in a half mile of the Station threatened to have them arrested.
June 7. dinner at Cheynne [Cheyenne] it is situated in a very nice Valley with hilles all arounde saw our first Snow Shed today the Trees in the Citty are just putting out leaves.
June 8. laide over all day it rained and Snowed froze at knight
June 9. Clear this morning and Cool, they have two Engins to the Train hear they had a Collision of two Freight Traines a short time a go 6 miles west of Chyenne no one hurt roades good Cool, roades hilley this afternoon. some fine sights among the Wyoming Canion
June 10. Clear to day a Cool mountain Breeze the Rockey hills has a peculier Beauty a fiew Pine Trees scattered a long the hills. Sharmen [Sherman] is the highest Rail Raode Station in the Union on the Summit of the Rockey mountains, there is a Stone monument theire 160 feet square 260 feet high 60 feet across the Top it was built in Honor of Oaks and Oliver Ames Brothers theire likeness is on [it] one the east and one on the west side they was 10 feet long and 6 feet across the chest, the nose 18 inches on [?] Eye 12 inches the forehead 26 inches they worked on it three years 60 thousand dollers the cost 60 car loades of Sement roades good and Sollid a fiew hills
June 11. traveling in Laramie Plaines very Pleasant snow on each Side of us the Best part of Wyoming we have seen yet. a good road. this forenoon good grass for noon and a harde Shower Come up, with some haile Charley very sick have to go on to Laramie to get a Docktor has the Mountain Feaver
June 12. rain all knight snow this forenoon melts as fast as it Falles the men are at work Ladies on the Streets in Oilcloth Raps no wind a Lady tolde me they had just sutch weat[h]er for two mont[h]s.
June 13. a nice Prarie to day and Snow on the Mountains dont look to be more than two miles a away, some mudy places in Laramie Bottom double Team for the First time roades rockey all the afternoon we left the Railroade at Laramie wond see it for one hundred miles. Teames look well.
June 14. rock from the size of a pe[a] to that of a nigerhead all over the roades and hills a like all day a good many mud holes, the sun shines a part of the time and raines a part, the mountains look very nice not much grass so many Sheep heare in the Valleys. Corn $1.60 cts per one hundred pounds nice Flowers at our Tent door grow in the sand and rocks June 15. fine and Cleare better Roades today a tole Bridge across Rock Creek. 50 cts a Team. John killed an Antilope to day steap hills at the Creek, another Tole Bridge on Medicin Bow Creek, 50 cts a Team, a Store and several Houses along the Bank are some tall Trees Camped in 5 or 6 miles of Elk Mountains snow on them
June 16. Cleare and pleasant this morning, our Teames and all that is in sight make 17 and 43 persons all going to Oregon or Washington.
June 18. Cleare and fine to day one [of] our Company killed a Beaver Camped over Sundy in a narrow Canion on Rattle Snake Creek one of our Company had a fine Hors[e] drowne. went out of our way to a Bridge in a pasture tole 30 cts a Team
June 19. going south to day to Warm Springs on North Platt river a spring the watter warm enough for dish watter theire is Invalides theire useing the watter they think it helpes them Corn $2.73 a hundred.
June 20. fine roades we met Famlies Saturday and to day from Oregon they say some harde things about it, no work theire. dinner at Sulpher Springs a store one Family theire they wanted a man and Wife at $65 dollars a month warm and dry some hills to day a sage hen for dinner, some Snow watter for supper.
June 22. Charley able to walke a rounde. have seen some harde looking Country to day at Barrel Springs poor watter and no wood but sage Brush, it burns very well
June 23. a very good roade to day a harde looking Country fine weather hot and dry we drove thirty miles to day to get to watter at Antilope springes, good watter.
June 25. very hot through the day and watter froze at knight out in a buckett. diner at Pine Butte the worst hill to do down of our trip, very good roades this afternoon. Camped at Muddy Springs very poor watter June 26. Cleare and hot better Country this afternoon some fiew Trees a spring House built over a spring Stone Floor plastered walls and was very nice
June 27. a hard looking Country, most of the day Crossed Green River at Green River Citty $2.00 for Ferrieng to the Team, went a mile out of our way to get to Camp at the Poorest place we have had a spring of Poor watter most every one out of sorts
June 28. hot and dusty nice level Country Poor land, a nice place to Camp in to knight
June 29. one of our Party Caught a fish last knight in hams Fork of Green River, weighed 8½ pounds dinner at Granger to day traveling a long the Oregon Short Line good watter and grass plenty mosquetoes.
June 30. good roades some fiew hills hot and dusty July 1st. Camped on a Stream of good watter plenty of Brush to Burn and more than plenty of mosquetoes.
July 2. roades hilley to day a Town Irvin Creek, a Coal mine and seems to be quite a buissness place, had more grass along the Short line than any where on our Trip, this is a little better part of the Country, now five or six miles of rough roade fifteen miles of a Canion.
July 3. Cool this morning good watter grass and Brush to burn at Coake Ville [Cokeville] a Tole Bridge 50 cts to the Team saw two Indians with theire red blankets on Saw a fine large ranch this morning fine improvements a large fielde of Alfalfa Clover, they irigate a good roade to day only when Crossing the Rail Raode Track theire was no Crossing made and it was hard on our Waggons.
July 4. Cool this morning narrow Canions some places only wide enough for the road and a nice spring that runns by the side of it the hill three or four hundred feet high Eate our 4 of July dinner on a little Flatt with hills all a round us and wondering how our Folkes at Home was spending theire fourth we had Canned Strawberries and Cake made without Eggs, we saw a nice ranch this morning a nice Garden some small Trees set out in the yard a Log House Some nice Lace Curtains to theire Windows and from Appearance was going off to selebrate the Fourth, a Tole Bridge. 25 cts to Team Montpelier Ten miles in Idaho, a very nice Place growing grain all arounde it watter running all through it they are selebrating the Fourth heare to day when we see the Stars and Stripes we think we are in the United States yet. This Valley is thickley Settled ninteen out of twenty are Mormons, we see Peppement growing wilde and some very pretty Flours.
July 5. dinner in a Canion. six hundred Head of Horses passed us going to North Platt, Neb. at Soda Springs to day the Spring has a peculiar taste they are boileing up all the Time. Watter cool we couldent drink it. they are improveing some heare
July 6. some harde looking Country to day another drove of Horses to day good roades
July 7. a good Camping place last knight good watter grass, and Brush to Burn some fine Cattle heare. a very hilley and dusty roade today passed a Government Post now owened by Indians they had a garden growing, a bout eight miles of sand between heare and Blackfoot station, was very heavy pulling, the first we have had.
July 8. traveled five or six miles this morning to get grass, and then rest. Blackfoot is a very nice Town heare we saw our first Freighters, three large waggons hitched to gather with six span of mules to them one driver a twenty gallon barrel for watter on each side they have just come in over the Desert some more Indians heare, a nice Iron Bridge a cross Snake River, $1.50 Tole to the Team.
July 9. start a cross a 50 mile Desert this morning 40 miles without watter only as we buy it. we payed one doller for watter one place they hall it 16 miles the next place it is brought with pipes from the mountains two miles.
July 10. good roades but very dusty, a half mile of Lava Bed that shook us up a little, the rock are burnt Black and melted runn to gather like burnt glass, and in some places greate openings in the Rock, a sand storm this evening drove us in to Camp at a store at Arcove [Arco] on Lost River] they say it is full of watter some knights and in the morning is gone
July 11. very pleasent to day. not so much dust a ranch they were making Hay had a nice Garden some nice Flowers in Bloome.
July 12. we are traveling between Lava Bed of a bo[u]t 60 miles and Salmon river mountains a narrow place but splendid roades. the winds blowes the dust some today
July 13. good roades to day not so much dust Bellview [Bellevue] a mining Town on Wood River a little strip of Timber. Every thing is very high flour$4.oo per hundred Oates three cents a pound, good grass to knight hall our watter and burn sage brush
July 14. Clear and Still good roads
July 15. Camping to day in a nice place on Soldier Creek in Camas Prairie, good watter and grass and a nice looking Country. Snowes four feet deep in winter some small fields of nice grain and Gardens fiew settlements.
July 16. Splendid roades a fiew hills fine cenery greate piles of Rock a fiew pine trees on the sidehills a good many names Cut on the Rock we start on a Tole roade today of 25 miles $1.50 to Team hot and dusty and some harde looking Country we see greate heards of Horses and Sheep from Oregon going to Montana, and they keep the grass eat off good many hills
July 17. not so hot today some fine ranches a great many fruit trees some of them loaded with Apples & pairs
July 18. a good many hills and then small Valleys
July 19. Camping to knight in Boyes5 Valley a pretty place fine large shade trees and fine Orchards loaded down with Fruite some fine Buildings Boise Citty the Capital of Idaho is a very nice Place Boise River runns a long the Valley and furnishes the watter for Irigating purposes.
July 20. roades dusty and hilley had to drive until 10 Oclock last knight to get to watter Pay for Timothey hay 1½ cts a pound a good valley roade
July 21. Hay 2½ cts a pound [they are] working on the Rail roade we see a good many Saloones a long the roade in Tents it never raines heare so they say
July 22. Sabeth traveled until noon to day to get grass Camped at fine ranch near Huntington [Baker Co., Oregon] the fi[n]est Peach Trees I ever saw. this year the first failure in haveing grass a mile from the roade
July 23. hot and dusty, hills high Valleys narrow, with fine ranches and Orchards a Tole roade $1.00 to Team
July 24. Baker City the County seat of Baker Co is a fine Town nice shade Trees, this is a very nice Valley near it is Some Large Timber the First we have seen and theire is plenty of it on the Blue mountains but scarse west of them they are building two new milles heare a Flour and a Saw mill in the foot hilles theire [are] a good many men and Teams now in this Valley gradeing for the Oregon Navigation Company’s Rail Roade it seems to me a Cooper woulde do well heare they use Tin Churnes Zinc Tubes6 and buckets no unclaimed Land in the Valley.
S.J. Collins
North Powder, Oregon
Union Co.
1 Sarah’s diary has been in my possession since November 1987. On March 17, 1988, I purchased it from its owner, Glen Nantz, auctioneer, formerly of North Powder and now of Pendleton. Nantz acquired it from Ernest J. Rostock, antique dealer and retired educator, Pendleton; Rostock acquired it from a man who said he was a woodcutter and that he had found the diary in an old cabin in the Blue Mountains. Sometime during 1988 I will place the original diary in the manuscript collection of the Oregon Historical Society.
2 Plum Creek was, in earlier years, the first important campsite west of Fort Kearney. On August 4, 1864 a small wagon train was massacred near there. Mrs. Collins may be referring to Elm Creek, a town located a few miles east of the Plum Creek site.
3 O’Fallon’s Bluff, located on the Platte just east of Sutherland, was an important campsite for Oregon Trail emigrants. It is a rest area on 1–80 today.
4 At Julesburg.
5 Boise
6 Tubs.