Arctic Char Sashimi

with Sesame-Chile Condiment

Makes 4 servings

This raw fish starter works with all sorts of seafood, thanks to the chunky condiment that accompanies it. I was inspired to make it after having a piece of raw salmon at my local sushi joint, which was drizzled with a sesame-chile oil. I layer on more textures and flavors: pungent ginger, crunchy fried garlic, smoky-fruity gochugaru flakes, and funky miso paste. It’s similar in texture to the Broken Chile Sauce I spoon over grilled asparagus, giving you little chunks of intense flavor swimming in a slightly smoky infused oil. I always keep some of this condiment in the fridge because it tastes great with any fish preparation, on top of rice bowls, spooned over broccoli, green beans, and much, much more.

Marinated Kohlrabi

• 1 cup mint leaves
• ⅔ cup fresh lemon juice
• 1 small kohlrabi, peeled and cut into ¼-by-1½-inch batons (about 1 cup)

In a small saucepan, combine the mint and lemon juice. Heat over low heat until just before the liquid begins to simmer, then turn off the heat. Using a wooden spoon, gently muddle the mint. Let steep for 30 minutes, then strain into a bowl. Add the kohlrabi to the liquid, cover, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or up to 24 hours.

Sesame-Chile Condiment

Makes about 1 cup

• ⅔ cup Paprika Oil
• 4 teaspoons finely chopped ginger
• 1½ teaspoons kosher salt
• 3 tablespoons sesame seeds
• ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
• 1 tablespoon Crispy Garlic
• 3 tablespoons sesame oil
• 2 tablespoons maple syrup
• 2 teaspoons gochugaru (Korean chile flakes)
• 1 tablespoon yellow miso

In a small saucepan, heat the paprika oil over medium-low heat. Add the ginger and salt and cook until the ginger starts to brown, about 2 minutes. Add the sesame seeds and cook until they start to brown, about 2 minutes. Add the red pepper flakes and cook for 1 minute, then add the crispy garlic and turn off the heat. Stir in the sesame oil, maple syrup, gochugaru, and miso until well combined. The condiment can be made ahead and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.

For Serving

• Marinated Kohlrabi
• 4 teaspoons thinly sliced mint
• 10 ounces skinless super-fresh arctic char, thinly sliced across the grain
• Kosher salt
• Flaky sea salt
• ½ cup Sesame-Chile Condiment
• 2 lemon wedges

Cover the bottom of a serving plate with a single layer of kohlrabi, including a little bit of the mint-infused marinade. Sprinkle the mint over. Season one side of the char with the kosher and flaky salt, then arrange the fish, seasoned side down, over the kohlrabi. Season the top of the fish with both salts, then spoon the sesame-chile condiment over the fish, making sure to distribute some of the chunky parts over each piece. Squeeze the lemon wedges over and serve.

The Takeaway

In addition to the sesame-chile condiment, this recipe contains a bonus takeaway: marinated kohlrabi. Sometimes you want a crunchy vegetable garnish that isn’t as punchy as a pickle, but is still packed with flavor. In times like this, I’ll make a simple infusion—here, mint leaves steeped in lemon juice. It only takes an hour or two for the kohlrabi to soak up the marinade’s bright flavor, but it becomes something way more interesting than the raw vegetable. Try this technique with other crunchy vegetables like fennel, jicama, or cucumbers, or on fruits like apples, pears, or watermelon.