Quick-Cured Salmon

with Fennel and Citrus Vinaigrette

Makes 4 to 6 servings

There’s a huge difference in texture and flavor between raw salmon and gravlax or other styles of cured salmon. This quick cure falls somewhere between the two, closer to the raw side of the spectrum. Coating the fish in seasoning and wrapping it in kombu for a few hours will draw out some of the fish’s moisture and infuse it with plenty of flavor, without making it something that begs for a bagel. The quick-cure method works on all kinds of fish as well, and you have plenty of room to play around with different spices and seasonings. At my restaurant, we use fatty salmon bellies for this dish—if you can find some, use them.

Quick-Cured Salmon

• 1 tablespoon fennel seeds
• 1 tablespoon coriander seeds
• ¼ cup sugar
• ¼ cup flaky sea salt
• ½ cup packed chopped fennel fronds
• Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
• Finely grated zest of 1 small orange
• 1 Thai chile pepper, thinly sliced
• 2 large sheets of kombu (large enough to cover the salmon)
• 1 pound center-cut skinless Atlantic salmon

In a small skillet, toast the fennel and coriander seeds over medium heat until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Grind the seeds and add to a bowl. Add the sugar, salt, fennel, citrus zest, and chile pepper and mix well. Spread half the curing mix in a thin layer on one sheet of the kombu. Place the salmon on top. Spread the remaining mix on top of the salmon, then place the other sheet of kombu on top. Wrap the kombu in a clean kitchen towel (or several layers of paper towels), then wrap everything tightly in plastic wrap (the kombu will soften as it cures). Refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours (4 hours for thinner fillets, 6 hours for thicker ones).

Fennel and Citrus Vinaigrette

• 1 lemon
• 1 medium orange
• ½ cup finely diced red onion
• ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons chile powder
• ¼ cup finely diced fennel
• 1 teaspoon elderflower syrup or ½ teaspoon honey
• ½ teaspoon kosher salt

Using a sharp knife, cut the peel and pith off the lemon and orange. Working over a bowl, cut between the membranes of the lemon to release three segments. Cut each segment into a few pieces and place in a mixing bowl. Repeat with the orange. Squeeze the remaining lemon to measure out 2 tablespoons of the juice and add to the mixing bowl. Repeat with the orange.

Heat a skillet over high heat. In a small bowl, toss the onions with the 2 tablespoons olive oil. When the skillet is very hot, add the onions and cook, stirring, until they’re lightly charred but still crunchy, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and stir in the chile powder. Let cool for a few minutes, then scrape into the bowl with the citrus segments. Add the remaining ¼ cup olive oil, the fennel, elderflower syrup, and salt.

For Serving

• Quick-Cured Salmon
• Fennel and Citrus Vinaigrette
• Extra-virgin olive oil
• Flaky sea salt
• 2 tablespoons thinly sliced mint
• 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

Unwrap the salmon, then rinse away the cure and pat dry. Using your longest, sharpest knife at a sharp angle, cut the salmon on the diagonal into thin slices (about ⅛ inch thick), rinsing and wiping the blade between slices to prevent sticking.

Arrange the salmon slices in a circle on a serving plate. Scatter the vinaigrette over the top. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with the salt and herbs. Serve.

The Takeaway

In addition to the quick-cure technique, this recipe is hiding a small, but very useful, lesson. Tossing finely diced onion into a hot skillet will give you that great caramelized onion flavor, but retain most of the crunch of raw onions. Use this trick whenever you want a similar effect, whether it’s in a dressing, sauce, or vinaigrette.