Matzo Ball Soup

Makes 8 to 10 servings

My family used to make matzo ball soup for Passover, and we had an ongoing (and mostly unspoken) contest for who can make the most flavorful soup with the lightest matzo balls. In my version, I break with convention and fold beaten egg whites into the matzo ball mixture to make them extra-fluffy. I also add an herb-packed soffritto to the matzo mix, a nod to the matzo ball soup we served at Tabla’s unleavened bread bar during the Passover holiday.

Chicken Stock

Makes about 1 gallon

• 4 pounds chicken wings
• 6 quarts water
• 1 large onion, diced
• 2 celery stalks, chopped
• 2 medium carrots, chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, smashed
• 4 parsley sprigs
• 1 rosemary sprig
• 2 thyme sprigs
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 tablespoon black peppercorns

Place the chicken wings in a stockpot and cover with the water. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat, skimming any foam from the surface as needed. When the liquid begins to simmer, add the remaining ingredients. Return to a gentle simmer and cook for 4 to 6 hours. Strain the stock through a fine-mesh sieve, discarding the solids. The chicken stock can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 4 days, or frozen for up to 3 months.

Chicken soup

• One 3- to 4-pound whole chicken
• Kosher salt
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• One 1-inch piece ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
• 2 medium carrots, chopped
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 2 celery stalks, chopped
• 1 leek, white and light green parts only, halved and thinly sliced
• 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 basil sprigs
• 5 parsley sprigs
• 1 rosemary sprig
• 1 gallon Chicken Stock

A day before making the soup, rinse the chicken and pat dry. Using 1 teaspoon salt per pound, season the chicken all over. Set a wire rack inside a rimmed baking sheet and place the chicken on top. Refrigerate for at least 6 hours, or up to 24 hours.

In a stockpot, heat the olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the garlic and ginger and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes. Add the carrots, onion, celery, leek, peppercorns, and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring, until the vegetables are softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the chicken, bay leaves, basil, parsley, and rosemary. Add the stock and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover the pot, turn off the heat, and wait 30 minutes.

After 30 minutes, the chicken should be cooked through (an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of a leg should register 165°F). If the chicken isn’t done after 30 minutes, bring the liquid to a simmer and cook until it’s finished.

Remove the chicken from the pot and discard the skin. Shred the meat and set aside. Strain the soup through a fine-mesh sieve, discarding the solids. Return the soup to the pot and season to taste with salt.

Matzo balls

• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger
• Kosher salt
• 2 tablespoons minced onion
• ½ jalapeño chile, minced (with seeds)
• 1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
• 1 teaspoon finely chopped oregano
• One 4.5-ounce box matzo meal
• 1 tablespoon chicken or duck fat
• 3 large egg yolks
• 1 tablespoon chopped chives
• 1 tablespoon chopped dill
• 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
• ⅓ cup plus 2 tablespoons seltzer water
• 4 large egg whites

In a small skillet or saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the garlic, ginger, and ½ teaspoon salt and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the onion and jalapeño and cook, stirring, until the onion is translucent, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the finely chopped parsley and oregano. Let the soffritto cool, then transfer to a large bowl. Add the matzo meal, chicken fat, egg yolks, chives, dill, chopped parsley, and 1 teaspoon salt. Add the seltzer and stir to combine.

Using a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or a handheld electric mixer), beat the egg whites until they hold stiff peaks. Fold the egg whites into the matzo mixture until combined. Using oiled hands, shape the matzo mixture into Ping-Pong–size balls (you should have enough to make about 10 balls).

For Serving

• Chicken Soup
• Matzo Balls
• 4 medium carrots, thinly sliced (about 1 cup)
• 1 turnip, cut into small dice
• Shredded chicken (from the chicken soup, above)
• ½ cup chopped dill
• ¼ cup chopped chives

Bring the soup to a simmer. Add the matzo balls to the soup, cover the pot, and gently simmer until cooked through, 20 to 25 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the matzo balls to serving bowls (1 matzo ball per bowl). Add the carrots, turnip, and shredded chicken to the soup and simmer until the chicken is warmed through and the vegetables are slightly softened, about 5 minutes. Divide the soup among the bowls, garnish with the dill and chives, and serve.

The Takeaway

Any great chicken soup starts with good homemade chicken stock. But when making the matzo soup, I amplify the chicken flavor by using the stock to poach a whole chicken. But instead of simmering the chicken in stock, I like to bring the stock to a boil, then turn off the heat, cover the pot, and wait 30 minutes—which is exactly enough time to cook the chicken through. (If you’re using an especially large chicken, add a few extra minutes of poaching time.) You can use this trick anytime you want a perfectly poached chicken—and an extra-flavorful stock.