Strawberry, Arugula, and Mint Salad

with Strawberry Vinaigrette

Makes 4 to 6 servings

The vinaigrette for this simple salad involves a technique I borrowed from the pastry department at ABC Kitchen. I gently cook strawberries and sugar in a double boiler until the fruit releases most of its liquid, creating a flavorful syrup that becomes the base for the peppery vinaigrette (and also makes a fun topping for ice cream). You’ll get decent results from supermarket strawberries, but if you can find locally grown berries, you’ll taste a big difference in your dressing. While you’re at the farmers market, seek out wild arugula, which will have a more intense flavor than the bagged variety, and ask around for anise hyssop. This underutilized herb looks and tastes like mint, but with an added licorice note. You can use it anywhere you’d use mint or tarragon, and I also like it in place of basil.

Strawberry Vinaigrette

Makes about ½ cup

• 1 pound strawberries, hulled
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
• Finely grated zest of 1 lime
• 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
• ½ teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Place the strawberries, sugar, and lemon juice in a double boiler or bowl set inside a pot of simmering water. Cover with plastic and cook over low heat until the strawberries have released their liquid, 70 to 80 minutes. Strain and discard the strawberries; you should have about ½ cup of syrup. Measure out ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon and pour in a small mixing bowl; save the rest of the syrup for another use.

In a skillet, toast the peppercorns over medium heat until very fragrant, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a spice grinder or mortar and pestle and grind until fine.

Add the lime zest and juice, ½ teaspoon of the black pepper (save the rest for finishing the salad), and the salt to the strawberry syrup. Whisk to combine, then slowly drizzle in the olive oil while whisking until emulsified.

For Serving

• 5 ounces baby arugula (preferably wild)
• ¾ cup thickly sliced mint
• Strawberry Vinaigrette, to taste
• 1 pint strawberries, hulled and sliced
• ½ cup crumbled goat cheese
• 2 tablespoons chopped chives
• ¼ cup roughly chopped anise hyssop or basil
• Extra-virgin olive oil
• Toasted and ground black pepper (from vinaigrette, above)

Place the arugula and mint in a mixing bowl and add some of the vinaigrette. Toss gently, then taste and add more vinaigrette if needed. Transfer to a serving bowl and scatter the strawberries, goat cheese, and herbs over the top. Drizzle the salad with olive oil, season generously with toasted pepper, and serve.

The Takeaway

Black pepper does a strange thing to strawberries: It makes them taste sweeter and more strawberry-like. When I pair these two ingredients, I like to turn up the strawberry’s flavor even louder by toasting the peppercorns in a dry skillet before grinding them, which gives the pepper a slight citrusy note. If you love black pepper, you should consider doing this all the time. Toast and grind a few tablespoons of pepper at a time, then store in an airtight container. It should retain its flavor for about a week.