Pan-Roasted Summer Squash

with Grilled Lettuce and Herbed Goat Cheese

Makes 4 servings

I grew up eating garlicky Alouette cheese spread by the tub, so I wanted to re-create (and slightly elevate) those flavors. My herbed goat cheese spread forms the creamy base for grilled lettuce and caramelized squash. If you’re stationed at the grill and don’t want to cook the squash indoors, you can cut them lengthwise into quarters, grill until charred and tender, then slice into ½-inch pieces.

Pickled Ramps

Makes 2 cups

• 1 pound ramps, roots trimmed
• 1 teaspoon brown or red mustard seeds
• 1 teaspoon coriander seeds
• Pinch of red pepper flakes
• 1½ cups white wine vinegar
• ¼ cup sugar
• 2 tablespoons kosher salt

Wash the ramps well. Separate the bulbs from the leaves, trimming the ramps before the red end of the bulb turns into the leaf. Place the ramp bulbs in a clean pint-size jar and add the mustard seeds, coriander seeds, and red pepper flakes.

In a small saucepan, combine the vinegar, sugar, and salt and bring to a boil. Pour the hot brine over the ramps, leaving about ½ inch of room at the top of the jar. Tap the jar to release any air bubbles, and add more brine if necessary. Seal the jar and let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate for at least 24 hours before using. The pickles can be refrigerated for up to 1 month.

Herbed Goat Cheese

• 8 ounces goat cheese
• ¼ cup buttermilk, shaken
• ¼ cup thinly sliced mint
• ¼ cup finely chopped parsley
• 2 tablespoons chopped Pickled Ramps
• 2 teaspoons finely chopped oregano
• ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 4 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

In a bowl, blend all ingredients with a fork until well mixed. The herbed goat cheese can be made a few days ahead; refrigerate until ready to use.

For Serving

• 1 small zucchini
• 1 small yellow summer squash
• 2 heads Little Gem lettuce, cut into quarters through the root end
• Extra-virgin olive oil
• Kosher salt
• Herbed Goat Cheese
• 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar mixed with 2 pinches of sugar
• 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
• 2 tablespoons chopped mint
• 2 teaspoons chopped oregano
• Flaky sea salt

Cut the zucchini and squash lengthwise into quarters, then cut out the seeds. Cut both on the bias into ½-inch pieces.

Prepare a hot grill or preheat a grill pan over high heat. Drizzle the lettuce with olive oil and season with kosher salt. Grill until the cut sides are charred, about 2 minutes. Set aside.

In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil over high heat until it shimmers. Add the squash and cook, stirring occasionally, until just tender and browned in spots, 3 to 4 minutes.

Spread the herbed goat cheese on a serving platter. Scatter the squash and lettuce wedges over. Drizzle with the vinegar mixture and sprinkle with the herbs and flaky salt. Serve.

The Takeaway

If you are a proud Alouette (or Boursin) fan, I probably don’t need to tell you that the herbed goat cheese makes an excellent dip for crudités and crackers, as well as a fine sandwich spread. But you can also use it as the base for a white pizza, or stuff it into pasta shells or ravioli. It also makes a great layer in vegetable lasagna.