Makes 4 to 6 servings
I wanted this grain salad to showcase different styles and preparations of grains. You certainly don’t need to use three different grains when you make this, as long as you use a combination of crunchy fried grains and creamy grains, which is something you’ll keep craving after you’ve tried it. If you don’t want to make the fried grains, you can also swap in puffed-grain cereal.
Mixed Grains
Bring three saucepans of salted water (at least 4 cups each) to a boil. Divide the grains among the pots, lower the heat, and simmer until al dente, 20 to 30 minutes for the farro, 30 to 35 minutes for the wheatberries, and about 45 minutes for the freekeh. Turn off the heat and divide the rosemary and thyme between the three pots. Let steep for 30 minutes, then drain the grains, discarding the herbs. In a large bowl, combine the grains and stir to mix. Set 1 cup aside for drying and frying and refrigerate the remaining 2 cups until ready to use.
Preheat the oven to 175°F (if your oven doesn’t go that low, prop the door open with a wooden spoon). Spread the 1 cup grains on a rimmed baking sheet and roast until completely dry, at least 4 hours.
Fill a medium saucepan with 2 inches of oil and heat to 375°F. Working in batches (about ½ cup at a time), fry the dried grains until they pop like popcorn, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain and season with salt. The grains can be made ahead and stored at room temperature for up to 2 days.
Roasted Fall Vegetables
Preheat the oven to 400°F. In a bowl, toss the vegetables with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Arrange on a rimmed baking sheet and roast until just cooked through, 15 to 20 minutes.
Lemon-Honey Vinaigrette
Makes about 1 cup
In a small bowl, whisk all ingredients together except the olive oil until well mixed. Slowly whisk in the olive oil until emulsified. The vinaigrette can be made a few hours ahead of time and refrigerated until ready to use.
Grilled Scallion Rémoulade
Makes about 1¼ cups
Prepare a hot grill or preheat a grill pan over high heat. Grill the scallions until charred all over, 3 to 5 minutes. Let cool slightly, then finely chop. In a bowl, combine the scallions with the remaining ingredients and mix well. The rémoulade can be refrigerated for a few days.
For Serving
In a large bowl, toss both sets of grains with the roasted vegetables, watermelon radish, parsley, and dill. Add the vinaigrette and toss to coat. Season to taste with salt. Spread about 2 tablespoons of rémoulade on the bottom of each serving bowl and top with the grain salad. Sprinkle the globe radishes on top of the grains and grate some lemon zest over each serving. Serve.
The Takeaway
Cooked grains can soak up a ton of flavor, so go heavy when dressing them. Here, I use both a sweet-sour vinaigrette and a smoky, chunky rémoulade to add a double dose of flavor. If you find yourself in the late spring with some ramps or spring onions, use them instead of the scallions.