Grits

with Mushroom Ragu

Makes 4 servings

This rich dish is an all-around utility player. It’s a satisfying meal in itself, a starchy side for braised meat dishes, or, with a fried or poached egg on top, the star of a brunch spread. Buy the highest-quality grits you can find; the difference in flavor between cheap supermarket cornmeal and artisanal grits from Anson Mills or Bob’s Red Mill is vast.

The mushroom ragu itself is also versatile: It has a meaty flavor but is completely vegetarian (if you don’t use chicken stock). You can serve it on its own as a side dish, and it’s wonderful on toast. We make this ragu whenever we have a bunch of mushroom scraps to use up, but if you’re starting from scratch, try to combine as many types of mushrooms as you can find, which will make the flavor that much more complex.

Grits

In a medium saucepan, bring the water and milk to a boil. Add the cornmeal, salt, and pepper. Lower the heat and simmer, stirring frequently, until the grits are tender, 30 to 40 minutes. Cover and keep warm.

Kombu Tea

Makes 4 cups

In a medium saucepan, combine the water and kombu and bring to a simmer. Combine the rest of the ingredients in a bowl and pour the water and kombu over. Cover and let sit for 30 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer and let cool to room temperature. Transfer to a storage container and refrigerate for up to 4 days or freeze for several months.

Mushroom Ragu

Makes 2 cups

  • ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 large garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • Kosher salt
  • ½ small onion, diced
  • ¼ cup diced parsnips (⅛-inch dice)
  • ¼ cup diced carrot (⅛-inch dice)
  • 2 tablespoons white wine
  • ½ cup coarsely grated russet potato (use the large holes on a box grater)
  • ¾ cup Kombu Tea, chicken stock, or vegetable stock
  • 12 ounces mixed mushrooms (I use trumpet, cremini, hon shimeji, and button), cut or torn into ½-inch pieces (about 4 cups)
  • ½ Thai chile, finely chopped (with seeds)
  • 1 teaspoon thyme leaves

In a medium saucepan, heat the 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and salt and cook, stirring, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the onion and cook until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the parsnips and carrot and cook for 5 minutes. Add the white wine and cook until most of the liquid has evaporated, about 3 minutes. Add the potato and stir well. Add the kombu tea or stock and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer until reduced by half, about 30 minutes. Turn off the heat.

In a large skillet, heat the remaining ¼ cup olive oil over high heat. Add the mushrooms and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are nicely browned, 15 to 20 minutes. Add the mushrooms to the vegetable mixture along with the chile and thyme. Let cool. The ragu can be made a day or two ahead of time; rewarm before serving.

For Serving

  • Grits
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • ½ cup finely grated aged cheddar cheese
  • ½ cup finely grated pecorino cheese
  • Mushroom Ragu
  • ¼ cup mixed chopped parsley, chives, and tarragon
  • 4 over-easy fried eggs
  • Extra-virgin olive oil

Rewarm the grits and stir in the butter and cheeses. Rewarm the mushroom ragu and stir in half of the herbs. Divide the grits among four serving bowls and top with the mushroom ragu. Sprinkle the remaining herbs over the mushrooms and top each bowl with a fried egg. Drizzle with olive oil and serve.

The Takeaway

You can use grated potatoes as a thickener for sauces, braises, and soups. It’s a great trick to keep in your back pocket anytime you want to thicken something on the fly, as the potatoes break down quickly and add more flavor than cornstarch and other thickeners.