Herbed Grains

with Stewed Mushrooms and Preserved Lemons

Makes 4 to 6 servings

Cooking grains can frustrate some cooks, as different varieties of grains—or different styles of the same grain—can have vastly different cooking times and absorb different amounts of water. For this reason, I cook each type of grain separately, and treat them like pasta, cooking them in a good amount of salted water before draining the excess liquid. Here, I combine emmer farro (sometimes labeled “farro medio”) and its chewy cousin freekeh (which is made from roasted durum wheat) with intensely flavored glazed mushrooms to make a soul-satisfying porridge that’s perfect for the coldest nights of winter.

Quick Preserved Lemons

Makes about 1 cup

Thinly slice the lemon into rounds (about ¹⁄₁₆ inch thick). Arrange the lemon slices in a single layer on a baking sheet and season with the sugar and salt (like you’d season a steak). Stack the lemons and transfer to a jar or container. Seal and refrigerate for at least 2 days before using. The preserved lemons can be refrigerated for up to 1 week. Rinse and pat dry before using.

Herbed Grains

Bring two saucepans of salted water to a boil. Add the farro to one and the freekeh to the other and simmer until al dente, 20 to 30 minutes for the farro and about 45 minutes for the freekeh. Turn off the heat and divide the rosemary and thyme between the two pots. Let steep for 30 minutes, then drain and discard the herbs.

Shallot Confit

Makes 1½ cups

  • 4 medium shallots, peeled and cut crosswise into ¼-inch rings
  • 1½ cups extra-virgin olive oil

In a small saucepan, combine the shallots and oil. Cook over very low heat (it shouldn’t bubble), until the shallots are golden brown and very soft, about 1 hour. Let cool to room temperature, then transfer to a storage container and refrigerate for up to 1 month.

Stewed Mushrooms

  • ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon oil from Shallot Confit or Garlic Confit (page 112) or extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 medium shallot, finely chopped
  • 2 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
  • 1 pound mixed mushrooms (I use a combination of silver dollar, shiitake, oyster, and chanterelle), cut or torn into roughly 1-inch pieces
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 3 tablespoons white miso paste
  • 1 cup Kombu Tea (page 240) or chicken stock

In a large saucepan, heat the oil over low heat. Add the shallot and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and salt, stir well, and cover the pot. Increase the heat to medium and cook until the mushrooms release some liquid, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk the miso into the kombu tea. Add this to the mushrooms, raise the heat to high and cook, uncovered, until the liquid has reduced to a glaze.

For Serving

  • 4 cups Herbed Grains
  • Stewed Mushrooms
  • 1 jalapeño chile, finely diced (with seeds)
  • ¼ cup chopped mint
  • ¼ cup chopped parsley
  • ¼ cup chopped chives
  • 8 slices Quick-Preserved Lemons, rinsed, patted dry, and chopped
  • Kosher salt
  • 1 lemon, for zesting

In a medium saucepan, combine the grains and mushrooms and cook over medium heat until glazy. Turn off the heat and stir in the jalapeño, mint, parsley, chives, and preserved lemon. Season to taste with salt. Divide among serving bowls and finish each with some freshly grated lemon zest.

The Takeaway

Most preserved lemons are made with whole fruit, but I learned how to make a different, quicker version from Tom Colicchio. By slicing the lemons first, you can achieve that same salty-sour flavor in a couple of days, rather than weeks. I also love how this method preserves some of the fresh lemon flavor, and you can use the whole slice, rather than throwing away the too-salty flesh. The downside is that quick-preserved lemons don’t last as long, so you’ll want to use them up within a couple of weeks. Give them a quick rinse and pat dry before using.