Pan-Seared Black Bass

with Cauliflower and Chunky Lemon Vinaigrette

Makes 4 servings

Like the seared scallops, this is another example of pairing a chunky and boldly flavored vinaigrette with a rich, creamy puree. As you eat the fish, the vinaigrette and puree mingle, giving you a full spectrum of flavors and textures. I pack as much flavor as possible into the cauliflower puree by cooking the florets in water that I’ve infused with lemon zest, lemongrass, ginger, garlic, and jalapeño. The result is the most layered puree you’ve ever tested.

Lemon Infusion

Makes 2 cups

In a saucepan, bring the water to a boil. Add the remaining ingredients to a heatproof bowl and cover with the boiling water. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let sit for 30 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer. The lemon infusion can be made a day ahead; cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

Cauliflower Puree

In a medium saucepan, heat the olive oil over low heat. Add the onion, garlic, and salt and cook until the onions are soft, about 8 minutes. Add the cauliflower and lemon infusion, bring the liquid to a simmer, and cover the pot. Cook until the cauliflower is very tender, about 10 minutes. Uncover the pot and continue cooking until most of the liquid has evaporated. Transfer to a blender and puree until smooth. Season to taste with salt. The puree can be made a day ahead and refrigerated until ready to use. Rewarm gently in a saucepan.

Pan-Roasted Cauliflower

In a medium skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add the cauliflower, season with salt, and cook until browned on one side, about 2 minutes. Stir and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the cauliflower is just tender and browned all over, about 6 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Chunky Lemon Vinaigrette

  • ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons chopped lemon segments
  • 1 tablespoon Lemon Infusion
  • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped jalapeño chile (no seeds)
  • 1 teaspoon finely grated ginger
  • 1 tablespoon thinly sliced basil
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
  • 2 teaspoons finely chopped chives
  • 1 teaspoon finely chopped tarragon
  • 2 teaspoons sugar
  • ½ teaspoon kosher salt
  • ¼ teaspoon Tabasco hot sauce (or Red Hot Sauce)

Combine all ingredients in a small bowl and stir to combine. The vinaigrette can be made up to 1 day ahead; cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

For Serving

  • Four 6-ounce black sea bass fillets with skin
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • Cauliflower Puree
  • Pan-Roasted Cauliflower
  • Chunky Lemon Vinaigrette
  • 1 lemon, for zesting
  • Flaky sea salt

Using a sharp knife, score the skin side of each piece of fish a couple of times in the thickest part of the fillet. Season the fish with kosher salt and pepper and pat the skin dry. In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over high heat until it shimmers. Add the fish, skin side down, and cook for 30 to 45 seconds, then press down on the fish with a spatula to flatten. Continue cooking the fish, pressing frequently with the spatula, until the skin is golden brown and the flesh is turning opaque around the edges, about 4 minutes. Turn the fish over and continue cooking until opaque throughout, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

Divide the cauliflower puree among four shallow serving bowls or plates. Scatter the pan-roasted cauliflower over the puree and top each with a piece of fish. Spoon the vinaigrette over and around the fish. Grate some lemon zest over the fish and season with flaky salt. Serve.

The Takeaway

Recipes for deeply caramelized cauliflower usually take you to the oven. While roasting cauliflower will give you the color and nutty flavor you desire, you usually end up sacrificing texture and are left with florets that are nicely browned on the outside, but mushy on the inside. Pan-roasting cauliflower, on the other hand, will give you lots more control over caramelization, and is quick enough so the florets retain their crunch—and that textural contrast is important when pairing the florets with a silky cauliflower puree. Make sure you cut your cauliflower into small florets, each about the size of a dime, or you’ll run into the same problem as roasting.