Makes 4 servings
I built this dish from the bottom up, starting with the parsnip puree. I love the fresh, sweet flavor you get when cooking parsnips in their own juice (more on that below), so I started there and topped it with chunks of deeply caramelized root vegetables, which add both texture and a rich vegetable flavor. I could top this combo with pretty much anything, but I landed on the mild, lightly sweet flavor of arctic char, which falls somewhere between trout and salmon. If you’re not in the mood for fish, serve the parsnip puree and vegetables with some roast chicken, pork, or braised beef.
Parsnip Puree
Place half of the parsnips in a blender along with a splash of water and blend until smooth. (If you have a juicer, skip the water and just juice the parsnips.) Strain in a fine-mesh strainer; you should have about 1 cup parsnip juice.
In a small saucepan, combine the remaining parsnips with the parsnip juice. Bring the liquid to a simmer and cook, skimming any foam that rises to the surface, until the parsnips are very soft, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain the parsnips, reserving the cooking liquid. Transfer the parsnips to a blender and puree, added some cooking liquid as needed, until very smooth. Scrape the puree into the saucepan and stir in the lemon juice. Season to taste with salt and keep warm.
Roasted Carrots and Parsnips
Preheat the oven to 425°F. In a bowl, toss the carrots and parsnips with the olive oil and season with salt. Spread on a rimmed baking sheet and roast, stirring once or twice, until tender and deeply caramelized, about 15 minutes.
For Serving
Char the chiles over the flame of a gas burner (or under a broiler), turning with tongs until blackened and blistered all over, about 4 minutes. Transfer the chiles to a bowl, cover with a plate, and let stand for 10 minutes. Scrape off the skins with a paring knife and wipe the flesh clean with a paper towel. Discard the stem and seeds. Cut the chiles lengthwise into ¼- by ½-inch pieces.
Preheat the oven to 250°F. Season the char with kosher salt and place in a baking dish just large enough to fit the fish in a single layer. Drizzle the fish with olive oil and add just enough water to cover the bottom of the dish. Cover with foil and roast until the char is opaque in the center, 15 to 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a skillet, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium heat. Add the carrots and parsnips and sauté until warmed through and caramelized in spots, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the roasted chiles and the basil and cook for 1 minute. Season with salt and turn off the heat.
Divide the parsnip puree among four plates. Top the puree with the roasted vegetable mixture. Place the char on top of the vegetables, grate some lemon zest over each piece of fish, and sprinkle with flaky salt. Serve.
The Takeaway
Braising vegetables in their own juice will give you a dramatically different result than cooking them in water. You’ll notice how much richer and sweeter they become, in addition to tasting like the best versions of themselves. You also don’t need a fancy juicer: Just puree raw parsnips with enough water to let the blender do its job, then strain. You can apply this technique to carrots, beets, and asparagus, as well as winter squash if it’s going to be pureed into a soup.