Cream of the Crop:
Herbal Balms and Salves
By Elizabeth Barrette
Herbal body care products come in many forms, including lotion, cream, ointment, salve, and balm. They differ primarily in texture and somewhat in their base ingredients. These factors influence what the compound is good for and how potent it is. More oil-based products, such as ointments and salves, are stronger and less perishable than water-based creams and lotions.
Natural ingredients tend to be soothing and nourishing for the skin, and most of them are gentler than harsh chemicals found in commercial products. Herbal compounds can be designed to address a wide range of complaints such as arthritis, bruises, burns, inflammation, insect bites and stings, gout, muscle aches, rashes, sores, sprains, strains, wounds, and other conditions.
Healing Herbs
Herbs used for body care products should be organic, if possible. You can grow your own or buy them from a reputable supplier. Herbs are often available in dried, essential oil, or tincture form. Some, such as aloe vera, may come as a gel, liquid, or other version. Below are some of the herbs most often used to make body products.
Aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis) Succulent leaves yield a thick gel. It is anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory, anti-viral, healing, moisturizing, and soothing. Primarily used for burns, aloe vera can also aid dry skin conditions such as eczema. It has an adaptogenic effect on the immune system, stimulating it to fight off infection or reducing it to soothe allergies. Adding aloe vera gel to a salve makes it lighter and easier to spread, as well as increasing the curative properties. This is also the preferred base for burn gels.
Arnica (Arnica montana) Fresh or dried flower heads are infused into oil. It is analgesic, healing, and soothing. It helps bruises, joint pain, muscle recovery, strains, sprains, and swelling. Avoid contact with damaged skin.
Calendula (Calendula officinalis) Bright orange flower petals may be infused in oil, or dried and powdered. It is anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, soothing, nourishing, and mildly scented. It also aids cellular repair. Use it for bruises, burns, cracked or dry skin, diaper rash, eczema, garden hands, sore nipples, and varicose veins. Among the gentlest of herbs, calendula appears in many products for the delicate skin of infants or elders. For infants, a rich cream is helpful. For elders, use a light oil or lotion to avoid a greasy texture. The vivid color of the flower yields a product of golden yellow, peach, or orange. Because calendula is edible, it works well in lip balm.
Chamomile (Matricaria recutita) It is anti-allergenic, anti-bacterial, and anti-inflammatory. It rejuvenates tissue encourages cell growth, relieves itching, softens and smoothes skin, and relaxes muscles. It promotes healing with less scar tissue. Chamomile helps with burns, eczema, hemorrhoids, minor wounds, and rashes. It makes an excellent lotion for widespread skin problems such as sunburn. Chamomile is also edible so it’s suitable for lip balm.
Elder (Sambucus nigra) The flowers are used to infuse oil. It is anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, anti-viral, astringent, and stimulant. As an adaptogen, it cleanses and revitalizes the body, creating balance. It softens skin, soothes allergies, and supports the immune system. It treats arthritis, bleeding, burns, gout, rheumatism, and swelling. Elderflower salve is particularly useful for soothing muscle or joint problems made worse by cold weather.
Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus globulus) The leaves and branch tips produce a medicinal oil that may be added to herbal compounds. It is analgesic, anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, anti-viral, and decongestant. Eucalyptus relieves arthritis, boils, colds, congestion, coughs, joint pain, minor wounds, and sore muscles. The smell tends to repel insects, ticks, and other pests.
Ginger (Zingiber officinale) Ginger root may be turned into juice, essential oil, or grated fresh into salves. It is anti-bacterial, anti-viral, stimulating, and warming. It aids the respiratory system, breaks up mucus, increases circulation, soothes muscles, and stimulates perspiration. Ginger deals with colds, flu, menstrual cramps, and pelvic inflammation.
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) The flowers produce essential oil, which can be added to herbal products. Lavender is anti-bacterial, anti-viral, cleansing, purifying, soothing, and uplifting. It helps with acne, candidiasis, eczema, exhaustion, fungal infections, headaches, insomnia, joint aches, minor wounds, pain, sore muscles, and stress. For physical complaints, a salve keeps the medicine in one place; for psychological effects, lotion works well to disperse the scent. It’s edible and therefore safe for lip balm.
Marshmallow (Althaea officinalis) The leaves, and especially the root, give a thick mucilage. It heals, lubricates, moisturizes, nourishes, numbs, softens, and soothes. It also stimulates the immune system. Marshmallow treats diaper rash, dry, irritated skin, minor wounds, and tattoos. Adding the mucilage to a lotion, cream, or salve will make it more slippery and easy to spread. Its sweet taste makes it popular in lip balm.
Mullein (Verbascum thapsus) Mullein flowers are infused into olive oil to treat skin problems, creating an electric yellow oil that lends a softer, buttery color to products made from it. This herb is cleansing, soothing, and very gentle. It treats diaper rash, minor cuts, and scrapes.
Neem (Azadirachta indica) Leaf powder is used in lotions, creams, and salves, or it may be added to an aloe base to make a gel. Neem oil can be bought and added to ointments or other compounds. It is anti-biotic, anti-fungal, and anti-viral. It smoothes and moisturizes skin. It helps with dermatitis, dry or itchy skin, eczema, hemorrhoids, lice, minor wounds, and skin diseases.
Plantain (Plantago major) Although the leaves are most often used fresh, they may be infused in oil for herbal preparations. Plantain is soothing and detoxifying. It treats insect bites and stings, along with diaper rash.
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) The narrow leaves may be infused into oil. It is analgesic, anti-microbial, anti-oxidant, and uplifting. It treats arthritis, eczema, indigestion, menstrual cramps, and muscle pain. It aids the circulatory and nervous systems, improves concentration and memory, and relieves muscle pains and spasms. The smell also repels mosquitoes and other pests. Adding rosemary oil acts as a preservative in lotions, salves, and other preparations. Because it’s edible, rosemary works in lip balm.
Slippery elm (Ulmus fulva) The inner bark is powdered, and when reconstituted with water, creates a slick mucilage with a consistency similar to egg white. It is anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, demulcent, diuretic, emollient, expectorant, and nutritive. It soothes boils, burns, and minor wounds. Adding slippery elm to a salve makes it easier to spread and also helps preserve fatty ingredients.
St. John’s wort (Hypericum perforatum) Fresh flowers and leaves can be infused into oil. St. John’s wort is anti-inflammatory, anti-viral, astringent, nervine, and uplifting. It treats bruises, burns, dry or damaged skin, muscle or nerve pain, and trauma. St. John’s wort salve keeps best when refrigerated; blend it for a softer consistency to account for thickening due to the cold. It can make skin more vulnerable to sunlight, so it is best used for spot application via salve, rather than lotion spread over large areas. Treated areas should be covered with cloth before exposure to sunlight.
Tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) The leaves make an oil infusion that is most often added to creams or ointments. It is analgesic, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anti-parasitic, astringent, decongestant, immune stimulant, and insecticide. It treats acne, athlete’s foot, boils, burns, cuts, dandruff, insect bites, itching, and skin fungus. Tea tree is not for internal use.
Wintergreen (Gaultheria procumbens) Essential oil is produced by fermenting the leaves. It is anodyne, antiseptic, aromatic, astringent, soothing, stimulant, tonic, and warming. It treats joint aches, lumbago, rheumatism, sciatica, and sore muscles. In cold weather wintergreen salve helps protect from frostbite. Do not put a heating pad over areas treated with wintergreen because the warming effect will amplify it too much. A very small amount of the oil goes a long way.
Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) Leaves and flowers may be used to infuse oil, or the dry, powdered herb can be added directly to medicinal compounds. Yarrow is analgesic, anti-inflammatory, and anti-microbial. It promotes relaxation and healing, and stops bleeding from minor wounds. It helps with boils, broken skin, bruises, cramps, hemorrhoids, itching, mosquito bites, pimples, rashes, sprains, and swelling.
• To stop itching: neem, tea tree, yarrow
• To heal damaged skin: calendula, chamomile, mullein, neem, slippery elm, yarrow
• To soften dry or irritated skin: aloe vera, calendula, marshmallow, slippery elm
• To soothe sore muscles: arnica, calendula, chamomile, eucalyptus, ginger, lavender, rosemary, St. John’s wort, wintergreen
• For all-purpose healing compounds: arnica, calendula, elder flower, marshmallow, plantain, slippery elm, yarrow
Other Ingredients
Additional ingredients for healing compounds include carriers, thickeners, and preservatives. Carriers may be liquid or semisolid, including water and a variety of oils. Thickeners include waxes and fats that are semisolid or solid at room temperature. Preservatives may be chemical or natural. These materials combine to make the base of an herbal compound to which various active ingredients may be added for the desired effect.
Vegetable shortening is a sticky fat that is solid, yet malleable, at room temperature and softens readily at body temperature. It avoids the disadvantages of petroleum or animal products making it a good base for ointments.
Almond oil is light, almost colorless and odorless, affordable, and readily available. It resists going rancid and makes an excellent carrier.
Jojoba oil is actually a wax, but performs like an oil. It absorbs easily into the skin and gives excellent texture in salves or creams. It’s more expensive, though.
Olive oil has a light to medium color and consistency with some odor. It nourishes the skin and goes rancid slowly. It is affordable and widely available. However, it can make the texture of salves less consistent due to temperature shifts.
Beeswax is a natural thickener that melts at low temperature. It allows the skin to breathe and has a pleasant, honeylike fragrance. It offers protective, soothing, emollient, nourishing, and healing properties. It’s affordable and easy to find.
Cocoa butter melts very easily and offers a rich, creamy texture. It has a nice nutty fragrance. A drawback is that it’s more expensive.
Shea butter heals dry or damaged skin. It has a pronounced smoky, nutty smell that some people like, but others dislike.
Citric acid comes as a powder with antioxidant and antibacterial qualities. It stabilizes the compound and is readily metabolized in the body. Because it is acidic, it can help balance an alkaline product. It is among the gentler preservatives.
Benzoin is an herb with antioxidant and antibacterial qualities available as essential oil, tincture, or dried. It can be irritating, though.
Grapefruit seed extract slows the growth of molds, yeasts, fungi, and some bacteria. It’s broad-spectrum, but irritating, so use in small amounts.
The above ingredients are just a sample of the more popular ones. Animal fats, petroleum jelly, and paraffin wax have all been used for making ointments and salves, but these ingredients have largely fallen out of favor. Animal fat is prone to going rancid and many people don’t like using animal products. Petroleum jelly and paraffin wax clog the pores and most folks prefer to avoid such unsustainable products. Chemical preservatives may be used in any body care product, but people who make their own herbal compounds usually don’t want those.
Types of Herbal Preparations
There is no universal definition for the names of body care products. People often use different terms as synonyms. This may come from the fact that many of them incorporate the same ingredients, just in different proportions. However, it’s possible to sort them out into a spectrum based on texture and use.
Lotion usually consists of oil mixed with water, although it may contain alcohol to speed drying or an emulsifier for binding. It is liquid at room temperature. It is thin enough to use in a flip-top or pump-action bottle. It is the easiest to spread over the whole body, but it can run if too much is applied at once. Lotion evaporates or absorbs quickly without leaving a sticky residue. It tends to be emollient. It is suitable for hairy places and oily skin prone to acne. Its effects don’t last very long, though.
Cream is an emulsion of oil and water in approximately equal proportions. It is semiliquid at room temperature. It is too thick for a bottle with a narrow closure, but too liquid for a tube, and maintains its shape somewhat when removed from its container. Thinner oil-in-water creams may come in a bottle with a wide mouth. Heavier water-in-oil creams are usually packaged in a tin that may be dipped into. Cream is easy to spread over medium to large areas, does not run, and usually absorbs without leaving much residue. It is safe for injured or irritated skin where a thicker product might be uncomfortable. Use a light cream with more water and cooling, astringent herbs for a red and itchy, or weeping and hot condition. Use a rich cream with more oil and warming, soothing herbs for dry and flaky, or cold and chapped skin in need of protection. The more oil, the longer the effects last.
Ointment is a homogenous, viscous preparation that is made from a thick oil or fat, sometimes with a small amount of water. It is semisolid at room temperature with a distinct greasy texture. It often comes in a squeezable tube, although it can be packaged in a tin. It is soft enough to spread readily over damaged areas, but it leaves a gooey coating on the skin and it stays exactly where it is put. Ointment tends to be very emollient and protective with an occlusive effect that enhances penetration. It is good for dry skin. Because it is sticky and holds in body fluids, it is not suitable for weepy skin conditions, hairy places, skin prone to acne, or hot weather. However, it lasts longer than water-based compounds.
Salve is typically a mixture of oils thickened with wax, but can use a denser fat as a base without needing the wax. It is semi-solid at room temperature with a more waxy texture. It typically comes in a tin. It can be spread, but does not go as far as softer compounds, and stays put very well. Thicker salve may be uncomfortable to spread over damaged areas. It does not soak into skin much and leaves a protective, waxy coating. Salve lasts longer than water-based compounds.
Balm is a mixture of wax and herbal infused oil or essential oil. It is a soft solid at room temperature. Balm holds its shape well enough to use in a push-up tube, as lip balm is often packaged. It can be difficult to spread, especially over injured or sensitive skin, so it is used on small areas. It does not soak into skin and it leaves a waxy coating that lasts a long time.
Recipes
While body care products differ in consistency and purpose, the preparation is similar. It usually involves heating the base materials and blending them together. Always use a double-boiler or water bath to heat fats and waxes, never direct heat, because they are flammable. Sometimes active ingredients will already be incorporated into the base, as with herb infused oils; other times they are added later, as with essential oils blended in after the mixture begins to cool.
Herbal Infused Oil
1 part dried herb
5 parts oil
1 tablespoon white vinegar
Combine all ingredients in a clean, glass jar, and cover tightly. Place in a warm, sunny window, and shake once a day for 2 weeks. Then strain out the solids, and discard them. Store the infused oil in a clean, dark jar.
Anti-Itch Lotion
6 ounces distilled water
1 ounce almond oil, infused with yarrow
1⁄2 ounce shea butter
1⁄2 ounce beeswax, grated
1 pinch fine slippery elm powder
1⁄8 teaspoon citric acid
1⁄4 teaspoon Vitamin E oil
6 drops tea tree essential oil
In one container heat the water. In another container, heat the almond oil, shea butter, and beeswax until fully combined. Add a pinch of slippery elm powder to the water and whisk. Slowly, add the oil mixture to the water until the desired thickness is reached, then add the citric acid. Whisk thoroughly until smooth. Allow the lotion to cool, whisking every 15 minutes. When it is cool, add the Vitamin E oil and the tea tree essential oil. Store in a bottle.
Moisturizing Cream
1 1⁄2 teaspoons powdered marshmallow root
9 ounces cold, distilled water
6 ounces jojoba oil, infused with mullein
3 ounces cocoa butter
1 ounce beeswax, grated
1⁄4 teaspoon citric acid
3 drops grapefruit seed extract
First, put the marshmallow root in a jar, add the cold water, and leave it to infuse overnight. This should produce a relatively smooth, thin mucilage. If there are lumps of dried root left, you may need to squeeze it through cheesecloth to strain out those bits.
Next, heat the jojoba oil. Add the cocoa butter and stir until combined. Add the beeswax and stir until fully melted. Remove from the heat, and let it cool until comfortable to touch.
Warm the marshmallow infusion to body temperature. Put it in a blender with the citric acid and grapefruit seed extract. Turn the blender on high, and slowly add the oil mixture. Blend until you have a smooth, thick cream. Pour the cream into tins and allow it to set.
Sore Muscle Ointment
1 cup vegetable shortening
1⁄4 cup olive oil, infused with arnica
1⁄4 teaspoon tincture of benzoin
2 drops wintergreen essential oil
Slowly heat the vegetable shortening over low heat until fully melted. Stir in the olive oil. When combined, remove from heat. Add the tincture of benzoin, and stir. Finally, add the wintergreen essential oil and stir. Pour into tins, and allow the ointment to cool and solidify. Keep it in a cool, dry place.
Healing Salve
6 ounces olive oil, infused with calendula
2 ounces almond oil, infused with elder flower
1 ounce jojoba oil, infused with plantain
2 ounces beeswax, grated
Warm the olive oil, almond oil, and jojoba oil over low heat. Add the beeswax and stir until fully melted. Pour into tins and allow the salve to solidify.
Soothing Lip Balm
1⁄3 cup almond oil, infused with chamomile
1⁄3 cup cocoa butter
1⁄3 cup beeswax, grated
3 drops lavender essential oil
Set up the empty tubes or tins to be filled. Warm the almond oil over low heat. Add the cocoa butter, and stir until it melts. Add the grated beeswax and stir until it melts. Stir in the lavender essential oil. Quickly pour the mixture into the waiting containers; it tends to cool and solidify very quickly.
Elizabeth Barrette has been involved with the Pagan community for more than twenty-five years. She served as Managing Editor of PanGaia for eight years and Dean of Studies at the Grey School of Wizardry for four years. She has written columns on beginning and intermediate Pagan practice, Pagan culture, and Pagan leadership. Her book Composing Magic: How to Create Magical Spells, Rituals, Blessings, Chants, and Prayers explains how to combine writing and spirituality. She lives in central Illinois, where she has done much networking with Pagans in her area, such as coffeehouse meetings and open sabbats. Her other public activities feature Pagan picnics and science fiction conventions. She enjoys magical crafts, historic religions, and gardening for wildlife. Her other writing fields include speculative fiction, gender studies, and social and environmental issues. Visit her blog The Wordsmith’s Forge, http://ysabetwordsmith.livejournal.com, or her website PenUltimate Productions, http://penultimateproductions.weebly.com. Her coven site with extensive Pagan materials is Greenhaven Tradition, http://greenhaventradition.weebly.com.