FINDING A BREEDER
Once you have decided that it is an English Springer with whom you want to share your life, your next step is to find a breeder. It may help you to visit a couple of dog shows or breed club matches. Watch the breeders and how they communicate with their dogs, look at the dogs and see which breeder has dogs with the type and temperament that you like. You can also contact the breed club and ask for names and addresses of breeders with puppies for sale. The club will give you a list of breeders who have puppies that fulfill the club rules. These rules mainly concern matters of hereditary defects in both parents.
TEMPERAMENT COUNTS
Your selection of a good puppy can be determined by your needs. A show potential or a good pet? It is your choice. Every puppy, however, should be of good temperament. Although show-quality puppies are bred and raised with emphasis on physical conformation, responsible breeders strive for equally good temperament. Do not buy from a breeder who concentrates solely on physical beauty at the expense of personality.
If the breeders whose dogs you like are not on the list, do not hesitate to contact them and ask if they will have puppies in the future and whether these puppies will fulfill the club rules. If you visit a breeder and you are a bit doubtful about the puppies or the breeder or the conditions in which the puppies are kept, or if the breeder thinks that checking for hereditary defects is not necessary, don’t buy! It must be a 100% decision. Buying a pup because you are afraid to say no or because you feel sorry for the pup is wrong. After all, you are going to buy a companion who will live for the next 12–14 years and you must be absolutely sure that he is the one you want and no other!
Although the English Springer Spaniel is a healthy breed, there are a few breed-related hereditary conditions. Responsible breeders will have their stock examined for these conditions and will not breed from affected stock. Defects that can sometimes occur are:
Hip dysplasia is a degeneration of the hip socket into which the femoral head rests. It is common in most breeds of pure-bred dogs.
Progressive retinal atrophy is a congenital disease of the eye that affects the Springer as well as many other pure-bred dogs.
Cataracts, a condition whereby the lens will become covered with a milky film, is often seen in older dogs (ten years and older). Since aging is a gradual process, it is not much cause for urgent concern when a cataract begins to form. However, there is another form of cataract that occurs at an early age, affecting the eyesight of the dog and therefore is much more serious.
Retinal dysplasia, another eye condition, in its mildest form is seen as a multiple folding of the retina that has no influence on the eyesight, and in its most serious form is a non-attachment of the retina to the underlying choroid and can lead to blindness.
Should you want to buy a puppy for showing, discuss with the breeder what to do in case the puppy will not be showable. Its mouth may go wrong, if it’s a male he may turn out to be monorchid (only one descended testicle), etc. If you are very determined to have a show-quality pup, you might do better to buy a more mature puppy, say six to seven months, so that these risks cannot occur. Inquire about inoculations and when the puppy was last dosed for worms.
Nowadays puppies are often sold with a sales contract. This is fine, but don’t sign on the spot. Ask the breeder if you can take it home to read it carefully so that you know exactly what you are signing. More important than a sales contract, however, is a good relationship between you and the breeder. A responsible, dedicated breeder is at all times willing to answer all your questions, to calm your fears and to share your joys.
Children and puppies naturally make the best of friends! When choosing a puppy, all members of the family should participate in the decision.
TIME TO GO HOME
Breeders rarely release puppies until they are eight to ten weeks of age. This is an acceptable age for most breeds of dog, excepting toy breeds, which are not released until around 12 weeks, given their petite sizes. If a breeder has a puppy that is 12 weeks of age or older, it is likely well socialized and house-trained. Be sure that it is otherwise healthy before deciding to take it home.
You contacted a breeder, he has a litter and there you are, surrounded by all these adorable puppies. How will you ever be able to choose! You have decided that you want a bitch puppy so ask the breeder to take the dog puppies away, that makes it a bit easier. Now what you are looking for is a healthy, good-looking, happy little thing that will be all over you when you crouch down, thinking you are great fun. Don’t go for shy puppies but don’t go for the bullies either! Ask the breeder if you can see the dam (and sire, if possible) and see what her temperament is like. Discuss the pedigree with him, so that you can make sure that your puppy comes from good stock accomplished in the show ring or field.
PUPPY APPEARANCE
Your puppy should have a well-fed appearance but not a distended abdomen, which may indicate worms or incorrect feeding, or both. The body should be firm, with a solid feel. The skin of the abdomen should be pale pink and clean, without signs of scratching or rash. Check the hind legs to make certain that dewclaws were removed.
A ten-week-old Springer puppy should have a fairly long head with a well-defined stop, a good reach of neck, good ribs and good quarters with hocks well let down. Shoulders should be laid back, front legs straight. The set of the tail should be a little below the level of the back and should be carried straight with lively action.
The puppy should have nice tight dark eyes. Take care to look for damp patches around the eyes because that means that there is something amiss. A good shiny coat is an indication of good health as is a happy and exuberant temperament.
Remember, you cannot be too careful when it comes to deciding on the type of dog you want and finding out about your prospective pup’s background. Buying a puppy is not—or should not be—just another whimsical purchase. In fact, this is one instance in which you actually do get to choose your own family! But, you may be thinking, buying a puppy should be fun—it should not be so serious and so much work. Keep in mind that your puppy is not a cuddly stuffed toy or decorative lawn ornament, but instead will become a real member of your family. Thus, you will realize that, while buying a puppy is a pleasurable and exciting endeavor, it is not something to be taken lightly. Relax…the fun will start when the pup comes home!
The decision can be difficult when choosing an adorable Springer puppy.
Bear in mind that a puppy is nothing more than a baby in a furry disguise…a baby who is virtually helpless in a human world and who trusts his owner for fulfillment of his basic needs for survival. That goes beyond food, water and shelter; your pup needs care, protection, guidance and love. If you are not prepared to commit to this, then you are not prepared to own a dog.
YOUR SCHEDULE . . .
If you lead an erratic, unpredictable life, with daily or weekly changes in your work requirements, consider the problems of owning a puppy. The new puppy has to be fed regularly, socialized (loved, petted, handled, introduced to other people) and, most importantly, allowed to go outdoors for house-training. As the dog gets older, he can be more tolerant of deviations in his feeding and relief schedule.
Within a few day’s time, your Springer puppy will begin to feel at home in his new surroundings.
Do not worry too much as you will probably find that once your pup gets used to his new home, he will fall into his place in the family quite naturally. But it never hurts to emphasize the commitment of dog ownership. With some time and patience, it is really not too difficult to raise a curious and exuberant Springer Spaniel pup to be a well-adjusted and well-mannered adult dog—a dog that could be your most loyal friend.
PREPARING PUPPY’S PLACE IN YOUR HOME
Researching your breed and finding a breeder are only two aspects of the “homework” you will have to do before bringing your puppy home. You will also have to prepare your home and family for the new addition. Much like you would prepare a nursery for a newborn baby, you will need to designate a place in your home that will be the puppy’s own. How you prepare your home will depend on how much freedom the dog will be allowed. Whatever you decide, you must ensure that he has a place that he can “call his own.”
BOY OR GIRL? 
An important consideration to be discussed is the sex of your puppy. For a family companion, a bitch may be the better choice, considering the female’s inbred concern for all young creatures and her accompanying tolerance and patience. It is always advised to spay a pet bitch, which may guarantee her a longer life.
When you bring your new puppy into your home, you are bringing him into what will become his home as well. Obviously, you did not buy a puppy so that he could take control of your house, but in order for a puppy to grow into a stable, well-adjusted dog, he has to feel comfortable in his surroundings. Remember, he is leaving the warmth and security of his dam and littermates, as well as the familiarity of the only place he has ever known, so it is important to make his transition as easy as possible. By preparing a place in your home for the puppy, you are making him feel as welcome as possible in a strange new place. It should not take him long to get used to it, but the sudden shock of being transplanted is somewhat traumatic for a young pup. Imagine how a small child would feel in the same situation—that is how your puppy must be feeling. It is up to you to reassure him and to let him know, “Little fellow, you are going to like it here!”
You should be prepared with a suitable crate, toys, water and food bowls and a few other essentials before you bring home the English Springer Spaniel.
PEDIGREE VS. REGISTRATION CERTIFICATE
Too often new owners are confused between these two important documents. Your puppy’s pedigree, essentially a family tree, is a written record of a dog’s genealogy of three generations or more. The pedigree will show you the names as well as performance titles of all the dogs in your pup’s background. Your breeder must provide you with a registration application, with his part properly filled out. You must complete the application and send it to the AKC with the proper fee. Every puppy must come from a litter that has been AKC-registered by the breeder, born in the USA and from sire and dam that are also registered with the AKC.
The seller must provide you with complete records to identify the puppy. The AKC requires that the seller provide the buyer with the following: breed; sex, color and markings; date of birth; litter number (when available); names and registration numbers of the parents; breeder’s name; and date sold or delivered.
CRATE
To someone unfamiliar with the use of crates in dog training, it may seem like punishment to shut a dog in a crate, but this is not the case at all. Most breeders recommend a crate as a preferred tool for pet puppies as well as show puppies. Crates are not cruel—crates have many humane and highly effective uses in dog care and training. For example, crate training is a very popular and very successful housebreaking method. A crate can keep your dog safe during travel; and, perhaps most importantly, a crate provides your dog with a place of his own in your home. It serves as a “doggie bedroom” of sorts— your Springer can curl up in his crate when he wants to sleep or when he just needs a break. Many dogs sleep in their crates overnight. When equipped with soft bedding and his favorite toy, a crate becomes a cozy pseudo-den for your dog. Like his ancestors, he too will seek out the comfort and retreat of a den—you just happen to be providing him with something a little more luxurious than his early ancestors enjoyed.
ARE YOU PREPARED?
Unfortunately, when a puppy is bought by someone who does not take into consideration the time and attention that dog ownership requires, it is the puppy who suffers when he is either abandoned or placed in a shelter by a frustrated owner. So all of the “homework” you do in preparation for your pup’s arrival will benefit you both. The more informed you are, the more you will know what to expect and the better equipped you will be to handle the ups and downs of raising a puppy. Hopefully, everyone in the household is willing to do his part in raising and caring for the pup. The anticipation of owning a dog often brings a lot of promises from excited family members: “I will walk him every day,” “I will feed him,” “I will house-train him,” etc., but these things take time and effort, and promises can easily be forgotten once the novelty of the new pet has worn off.
PHOTO COURTESY OF DOSKOCIL.
Your local pet shop should be the source for all of your pet supplies. Most pet shops have a large variety of crates in all sizes, styles and prices.
As far as purchasing a crate, the type that you buy is up to you. It will likely be one of the two most popular types: wire or fiberglass. There are advantages and disadvantages to each type. For example, a wire crate is more open, allowing the air to flow through and affording the dog a view of what is going on around him while a fiberglass crate is sturdier. Both can double as travel crates, providing protection for the dog. The size of the crate is another thing to consider. Puppies do not stay puppies forever—in fact, sometimes it seems as if they grow right before your eyes. A small-sized crate may be fine for a very young Springer pup, but it will not do him much good for long! Unless you have the money and the inclination to buy a new crate every time your pup has a growth spurt, it is better to get one that will accommodate your dog both as a pup and at full size. A medium-size crate will be necessary for a full-grown English Springer Spaniel, who stands approximately 20 inches high.
Breeders often raise pups on newspaper to initiate the house-training process. Avoid using newspaper at home unless you intend to have the pup eliminate indoors.
Puppies need to chew, and they will chew anything! They require safe chew toys to divert their attention from your belongings and items that could be dangerous.
GROWING PAINS
The majority of problems that are commonly seen in young pups will disappear as your dog gets older. However, how you deal with problems when he is young will determine how he reacts to discipline as an adult dog. It is important to establish who is boss (hopefully it will be you!) right away when you are first bonding with your dog. This bond will set the tone for the rest of your life together.
BEDDING
A nice lambs’ wool pad in the dog’s crate will help the dog feel more at home and you may also like to offer the pup a small blanket. This will take the place of the leaves, twigs, etc., that the pup would use in the wild to make a den; the pup can make his own “burrow” in the crate. Although your pup is far removed from his den-making ancestors, the denning instinct is still a part of his genetic makeup. Second, until you bring your pup home, he has been sleeping amid the warmth of his dam and littermates, and while a blanket is not the same as a warm, breathing body, it still provides heat and something with which to snuggle. You will want to wash your pup’s bedding frequently in case he has an accident in his crate, and replace or remove any bedding that becomes ragged and starts to fall apart.
PHOTO COURTESY OF MIKKI PET PRODUCTS.
Tug toys are ideal for puppies because you can initiate a game with your pup as part of the bonding experience. While gentle play with tug toys is good, you should never incite your pup into an aggressive tug-of-war game.
Toys are a must for dogs of all ages, especially for curious playful pups. Puppies are the “children” of the dog world, and what child does not love toys? Chew toys provide enjoyment to both dog and owner—your dog will enjoy playing with his favorite toys, while you will enjoy the fact that they distract him from your expensive shoes and leather sofa. Puppies love to chew; in fact, chewing is a physical need for pups as they are teething, and everything looks appetizing! The full range of your possessions— from old dishcloth to Oriental rug—are fair game in the eyes of a teething pup. Puppies are not all that discerning when it comes to finding something to literally “sink their teeth into”—everything tastes great!
PHOTO COURTESY OF MIKKI PET PRODUCTS.
There are many high-quality toys made especially for dogs. Only buy toys made for canines, as toys made for human children are not strong enough to withstand puppy teeth.
PHOTO COURTESY OF MIKKI PET PRODUCTS.
Your local pet shop will have a wide variety of leads in many colors, materials and thicknesses. Select a durable lead that will last you and your Springer many years.
Breeders advise owners to resist stuffed toys, because they can become de-stuffed in no time. The overly excited pup may ingest the stuffing, which is neither digestible nor nutritious. Similarly, squeaky toys are quite popular, but if a pup “disembowels” one of these, the small plastic squeaker inside can be dangerous if swallowed.
PET INSURANCE
Just like you can insure your car, your house and your own health, you likewise can insure your dog’s health. Investigate a pet insurance policy by talking to your vet. Depending on the age of your dog, the breed and the kind of coverage you desire, your policy can be very affordable. Most policies cover accidental injuries, poisoning, and thousands of medical problems and illnesses, including cancers. Some carriers also offer routine care and immunization coverage.
Be careful of natural bones, which have a tendency to splinter into sharp, dangerous pieces. Also be careful of rawhide, which can turn into pieces that are easy to swallow or into a mushy mess on your carpet. Most puppies love the calf hooves that you can buy in any pet shop or at shows. They can chew for hours on them without coming to any harm. However, if what’s left of the hoof becomes too small, you’d better take it away. Monitor the condition of all your pup’s toys carefully and get rid of any that have been chewed to the point of becoming potentially dangerous.
THE RIDE HOME
Taking your dog from the breeder to your home in a car can be a very uncomfortable experience for both of you. The puppy will have been taken from his warm, friendly, safe environment and brought into a strange new environment—an environment that moves! Be prepared for loose bowels, urination, crying, whining and even fear biting. With proper love and encouragement when you arrive home, the stress of the trip should quickly disappear.
LEAD
A nylon lead is probably the best option as it is the most resistant to puppy teeth. Many a Springer puppy will take a liking to chewing on his lead. Of course, this is a habit that should be “nipped” in the bud. Nylon leads are strong but lightweight, which is good for a young Springer puppy who is just getting used to the idea of walking on a lead. For everyday walking and safety purposes, the nylon lead is a good choice. As your pup grows up and gets used to walking on the lead, you may want to purchase a flexible lead. These leads allow you to extend the length to give the dog a broader area to explore or to shorten the length to keep the dog close to you.
COLLAR
Your pup should get used to wearing a collar all the time since you will want to attach his ID tags to it. A lightweight nylon collar is a good choice. Make sure that it fits snugly enough so that the pup cannot wriggle out of it, but is loose enough so that it will not be uncomfortably tight around the pup’s neck. You should be able to fit a finger between the pup and the collar. It may take some time for your pup to get used to wearing the collar, but soon he will not even notice that it is there. Choke collars are made for training, but should only be used by an experienced handler.
The BUCKLE COLLAR is the standard collar used for everyday purposes. Be sure that you adjust the buckle on growing puppies. Check it every day. It can become too tight overnight! These collars can be made of leather or nylon. Attach your dog’s identification tags to this collar.
The CHOKE CHAIN is designed for training. It is constructed of highly polished steel so that it slides easily through the stainless steel loop. The idea is that the dog controls the pressure around his neck and he will stop pulling if the collar becomes uncomfortable. Never leave a choke collar on your dog when not training.
The HALTER is for a trained dog that has to be restrained to prevent running away, chasing a cat and the like. Considered the most humane of all collars, it is frequently used on smaller dogs on which collars are not comfortable.
PHOTO COURTESY OF MIKKI PET PRODUCTS.
Provide your English Springer Spaniel with food and water bowls. These bowls can be constructed of sturdy plastic, ceramic, clay or stainless steel.
ELECTRICAL FENCING
The electrical fencing system which forms an invisible fence works on a battery-operated collar that shocks the dog if it gets too close to the buried (or elevated) wire. There are some people who think very highly of this system of controlling a dog’s wandering. Keep in mind that the collar has batteries. For safety’s sake, replace the batteries every month with the best quality batteries available.
FOOD AND WATER BOWLS
Your pup will need two bowls, one for food and one for water. You may want two sets of bowls, one for inside and one for outside, depending on where the dog will be fed and where he will be spending most of his time. Stainless steel bowls that can be sterilized are good, but the sturdy special spaniel bowls whose shape allows the ears to fall outside the bowl are popular choices. These bowls avoid messy ears after the dinner and a wet floor after drinking! Plastic bowls are very chewable and therefore not advisable. Some dog owners like to put their dogs’ food and water bowls on a specially made elevated stand. This brings the food closer to the dog’s level so he does not have to bend down as far, thus aiding his digestion and helping to guard against bloat or gastric torsion in deep-chested dogs. The most important thing is to buy sturdy bowls since, again, anything is in danger of being chewed by puppy teeth and you do not want your dog to be constantly chewing apart his bowl (for his safety and for your wallet!).
Responsible, law-abiding dog owners pick up their dogs’ droppings whenever they are in public. Pooper-scooper devices make the job quick and easy.
CLEANING SUPPLIES
Until a pup is house-trained, you will be doing a lot of cleaning. Accidents will occur, which is okay in the beginning because the puppy does not know any better. All you can do is be prepared to clean up any accidents. Old rags, paper towels, newspapers and a safe disinfectant are good to have on hand.
CRATE-TRAINING TIPS
During crate training, you should partition off the section of the crate in which the pup stays. If he is given too big an area, this will hinder your training efforts. Crate training is based on the fact that a dog does not like to soil his sleeping quarters, so it is ineffective to keep a pup in a crate that is so big that he can eliminate in one end and get far enough away from it to sleep. Also, you want to make the crate den-like for the pup. Blankets and a favorite toy will make the crate cozy for the small pup; as he grows, you may want to evict some of his “roommates” to make more room. It will take some coaxing at first, but be patient. Given some time to get used to it, your pup will adapt to his new home-within-a-home quite nicely.
The items previously discussed are the bare necessities. You will find out what else you need as you go along—grooming supplies, flea/tick protection, baby gates to partition a room, etc. These things will vary depending on your situation but it is important that you have everything you need to feed and make your Springer comfortable in his first few days at home.
PUPPY-PROOFING YOUR HOME
Aside from making sure that your English Springer Spaniel will be comfortable in your home, you also have to make sure that your home is safe for your Springer. This means taking precautions that your pup will not get into anything he should not and that there is nothing within his reach that may harm him should he sniff it, chew it, inspect it, etc. This probably seems obvious since, while you are primarily concerned with your pup’s safety, at the same time you do not want your belongings to be ruined. Breakables should be placed out of reach if your dog is to have full run of the house. If he is to be limited to certain places within the house, keep any potentially dangerous items in the “off-limits” areas. An electrical cord can pose a danger should the puppy decide to taste it—and who is going to convince a pup that it would not make a great chew toy? Cords should be fastened tightly against the wall. If your dog is going to spend time in a crate, make sure that there is nothing near his crate that he can reach if he sticks his curious little nose or paws through the openings. Just as you would with a child, keep all household cleaners and chemicals where the pup cannot get to them.
An average home contains many potential dangers for a curious pup…a fireplace is just one example. The house should be puppy-proofed before bringing the pup home, and constant supervision is necessary.
NATURAL TOXINS
Examine your grass and landscaping before bringing your puppy home. Many varieties of plants have leaves, stems or flowers that are toxic if ingested, and you can depend on a curious puppy to investigate them. Ask your vet for information on poisonous plants or research them at your library.
It is also important to make sure that the outside of your home is safe. Of course your puppy should never be unsupervised, but a pup let loose in the yard will want to run and explore, and he should be granted that freedom. Do not let a fence give you a false sense of security; you would be surprised how crafty (and persistent) a dog can be in figuring out how to dig under and squeeze his way through small holes, or to jump or climb over a fence. The remedy is to make the fence high enough so that it really is impossible for your dog to get over it (about 6 feet should suffice), and well embedded into the ground. Be sure to repair or secure any gaps in the fence. Check the fence periodically to ensure that it is in good shape and make repairs as needed; a very determined pup may return to the same spot to “work on it” until he is able to get through.
FIRST TRIP TO THE VET
You have picked out your puppy, and your home and family are ready. Something else you need to prepare is your pup’s first trip to the veterinarian. Perhaps the breeder can recommend someone in the area who specializes in Springer Spaniels, or maybe you know some other dog owners who can suggest a good vet. Either way, you should have an appointment arranged for your pup before you pick him up and plan on taking him for an examination before bringing him home.
An active Springer pup will love to spend time running and playing in the yard, so make sure that the yard is safe for the puppy.
TOXIC PLANTS
Many plants can be toxic to dogs. If you see your dog carrying a piece of vegetation in his mouth, approach him in a quiet, disinterested manner, avoid eye contact, pet him and gradually remove the plant from his mouth. Alternatively, offer him a treat and maybe he’ll drop the plant on his own accord. Be sure no toxic plants are growing in your own garden.
The pup’s first visit will consist of an overall examination to make sure that the pup does not have any problems that are not apparent to you. The veterinarian will also set up a schedule for the pup’s vaccinations; the breeder will inform you of which ones the pup has already received and the vet can continue from there.
INTRODUCTION TO THE FAMILY
Everyone in the house will be excited about the puppy’s coming home and will want to pet him and play with him, but it is best to make the introductions low-key so as not to overwhelm the puppy. He is apprehensive already. It is the first time he has been separated from his dam and the breeder, and the ride to your home is likely the first time he has been in a car. The last thing you want to do is smother him, as this will only frighten him further. This is not to say that human contact is not extremely necessary at this stage, because this is the time when a connection between the pup and his human family is formed. Gentle petting and soothing words should help console him, as well as just putting him down and letting him explore on his own (under your watchful eye, of course).
CHEMICAL TOXINS
Scour your garage for potential puppy dangers. Remove weed killers, pesticides and antifreeze materials. Antifreeze is highly toxic and just a few drops can kill a puppy or an adult dog. The sweet taste attracts the animal, who will quickly consume it from the floor or pavement.
The pup may approach the family members or may busy himself with exploring for a while. Gradually, each person should spend some time with the pup, one at a time, crouching down to get as close to the pup’s level as possible and letting him sniff their hands and petting him gently. He definitely needs human attention and he needs to be touched—this is how to form an immediate bond. Just remember that the pup is experiencing a lot of things for the first time, at the same time. There are new people, new noises, new smells and new things to investigate: so be gentle, be affectionate and be as comforting as you can.
YOUR PUP’S FIRST NIGHT HOME
You have traveled home with your new charge safely in his crate or on a new friend’s lap. He’s been to the vet for a thorough checkup; he’s been weighed, his papers examined; perhaps he’s even been vaccinated and wormed as well. He’s met the family, licked the whole family, including the excited children and the less-than-happy cat. He’s explored his area, his new bed, the yard and anywhere else he’s been permitted. He’s eaten his first meal at home and relieved himself in the proper place. He’s heard lots of new sounds, smelled new friends and seen more of the outside world than ever before.
Thoroughly puppy-proof your house before bringing your puppy home. Never use roach or rodent poisons in any area accessible to the puppy. Avoid the use of toilet bowl cleaners. Most dogs are born with toilet bowl sonar and will take a drink if the lid is left open. Also keep the trash secured and out of reach.
Even very young children should be taught to treat pets with care and respect. A child who grows up around dogs will naturally accept them as part of the family.
That was just the first day! He’s worn out and is ready for bed…or so you think!
It’s puppy’s first night and you are ready to say “Good night”— keep in mind that this is puppy’s first night ever to be sleeping alone. His dam and littermates are no longer at paw’s length and he’s a bit scared, cold and lonely. Be reassuring to your new family member. This is not the time to spoil him and give in to his inevitable whining.
Puppies whine. They whine to let the others know where they are and hopefully to get company out of it. Place your pup in his new bed or crate in his room and close the door. Mercifully, he may fall asleep without a peep. When the inevitable occurs, ignore the whining: he is fine. Be strong and keep his interest in mind. Do not allow your heart to become guilty and visit the pup. He will fall asleep.
FEEDING TIPS
You will probably start feeding your pup the same food that he has been getting from the breeder; the breeder should give you a few days’ supply to start you off. Although you should not give your pup too many treats, you will want to have puppy treats on hand for coaxing, training, rewards, etc. Be careful, though, as a small pup’s calorie requirements are relatively low and a few treats can add up to almost a full day’s worth of calories without the required nutrition.
These Springer pups have a great opportunity for socialization with their dam, littermates, other dogs and people of different ages.
Many breeders recommend placing a piece of bedding from his former homestead in his new bed so that he recognizes the scent of his littermates. Others still advise placing a hot water bottle in his bed for warmth. This latter may be a good idea provided the pup doesn’t attempt to suckle—he’ll get good and wet and may not fall asleep so fast.
Puppy’s first night can be somewhat stressful for the pup and his new family. Remember that you are setting the tone of nighttime at your house. Unless you want to play with your pup every night at 10 p.m., midnight and 2 a.m., don’t initiate the habit. Your family will thank you, and so will your pup!
PREVENTING PUPPY PROBLEMS
SOCIALIZATION
Now that you have done all of the preparatory work and have helped your pup get accustomed to his new home and family, it is about time for you to have some fun! Socializing your English Springer Spaniel pup gives you the opportunity to show off your new friend, and your pup gets to reap the benefits of being an adorable furry creature that people will want to pet and, in general, think is absolutely precious!
Besides getting to know his new family, your puppy should be exposed to other people, animals and situations, but of course he must not come into close contact with dogs you don’t know well until his course of injections is fully complete. This will help him become well adjusted as he grows up and less prone to being timid or fearful of the new things he will encounter. Your pup’s socialization began at the breeder’s but now it is your responsibility to continue it. The socialization he receives up until the age of 12 weeks is the most critical, as this is the time when he forms his impressions of the outside world. Be especially careful during the eight-to-ten-week period, also known as the fear period. The interaction he receives during this time should be gentle and reassuring. Lack of socialization can manifest itself in fear and aggression as the dog grows up. He needs lots of human contact, affection, handling and exposure to other animals.
Once your pup has received his necessary vaccinations, feel free to take him out and about (on his lead, of course). Walk him around the neighborhood, take him on your daily errands, let people pet him, let him meet other dogs and pets, etc. Puppies do not have to try to make friends; there will be no shortage of people who will want to introduce themselves. Just make sure that you carefully supervise each meeting. If the neighborhood children want to say hello, for example, that is great—children and pups most often make great companions. Sometimes an excited child can unintentionally handle a pup too roughly, or an overzealous pup can playfully nip a little too hard. You want to make socialization experiences positive ones. What a pup learns during this very formative stage will impact his attitude toward future encounters. You want your dog to be comfortable around everyone. A pup that has a bad experience with a child may grow up to be a dog that is shy around or aggressive toward children.
FINANCIAL RESPONSIBILITY
Grooming tools, collars, leashes, crate, dog beds and, of course, toys will be expenses to you when you first obtain your pup, and the cost will continue throughout your dog’s lifetime. If your puppy damages or destroys your possessions (as most puppies surely will!) or something belonging to a neighbor, you can calculate additional expense. There is also flea and pest control, which every dog owner faces more than once. You must be able to handle the financial responsibility of owning a dog.
Thorough socialization includes not only meeting new people but also being introduced to new experiences such as riding in the car, having his coat brushed, hearing the television, walking in a crowd—the list is endless. The more your pup experiences, and the more positive the experiences are, the less of a shock and the less scary it will be for your pup to encounter new things.
CONSISTENCY IN TRAINING
Dogs, being pack animals, naturally need a leader, or else they try to establish dominance in their packs. When you bring a dog into your family, the choice of who becomes the leader and who becomes the pack is entirely up to you! Your pup’s intuitive quest for dominance, coupled with the fact that it is nearly impossible to look at an adorable Springer Spaniel pup, with his “puppy-dog” eyes and his floppy ears, and not cave in, give the pup almost an unfair advantage in getting the upper hand! A pup will definitely test the waters to see what he can and cannot do. Do not give in to those sad spaniel eyes—stand your ground when it comes to disciplining the pup and make sure that all family members do the same. It will only confuse the pup when Mother tells him to get off the couch when he is used to sitting up there with Father to watch the nightly news. Avoid discrepancies by having all members of the household decide on the rules before the pup even comes home…and be consistent in enforcing them! Early training shapes the dog’s personality, so you cannot be unclear in what you expect.
If you don’t want your Springer(s) on the furniture, enforce the rules early on. Otherwise, you may find that your favorite spot on the sofa has “gone to the dogs!”
COMMON PUPPY PROBLEMS
The best way to prevent puppy problems is to be proactive in stopping an undesirable behavior as soon as it starts. The old saying “You can’t teach an old dog new tricks” does not necessarily hold true, but it is true that it is much easier to discourage bad behavior in a young developing pup than to wait until the pup’s bad behavior becomes the adult dog’s bad habit. There are some problems that are especially prevalent in puppies as they develop.
NIPPING
As puppies start to teethe, they feel the need to sink their teeth into anything available…unfortunately that includes your fingers, arms, hair and toes. You may find this behavior cute for the first five seconds…until you feel just how sharp those puppy teeth are. This is something you want to discourage immediately and consistently with a firm “No!” (or whatever number of firm “No’s” it takes for him to understand that you mean business). Then replace your finger with an appropriate chew toy. While this behavior is merely annoying when the dog is young, it can become highly unpleasant as your Springer Spaniel’s adult teeth grow in and his jaws develop, and he continues to think it is okay to gnaw on human appendages. Your Springer Spaniel does not mean any harm with a friendly nip, but he also does not know his own strength.
IN DUE TIME
It will take at least two weeks for your puppy to become accustomed to his new surroundings. Give him lots of love, attention, handling, frequent opportunities to relieve himself, a diet he likes to eat and a place he can call his own.
Springers love the great outdoors, no matter the weather. This pup looks like he’s enjoyed his first encounter with snow.
CHEWING TIPS
Chewing goes hand in hand with nipping in the sense that a teething puppy is always looking for a way to soothe his aching gums. In this case, instead of chewing on you, he may have taken a liking to your favorite shoe or something else which he should not be chewing. Again, realize that this is a normal canine behavior that does not need to be discouraged, only redirected. Your pup just needs to be taught what is acceptable to chew on and what is off-limits. Consistently tell him “No!” when you catch him chewing on something forbidden and give him a chew toy.
Conversely, praise him when you catch him chewing on something appropriate. In this way, you are discouraging the inappropriate behavior and reinforcing the desired behavior. The puppy’s chewing should stop after his adult teeth have come in, but an adult dog continues to chew for various reasons—perhaps because he is bored, needs to relieve tension or just likes to chew. That is why it is important to redirect his chewing when he is still young.
Your pup will often cry, whine, whimper, howl or make some type of commotion when he is left alone. This is basically his way of calling out for attention to make sure that you know he is there and that you have not forgotten about him. He feels insecure when he is left alone, when you are out of the house and he is in his crate or when you are in another part of the house and he cannot see you. The noise he is making is an expression of the anxiety he feels at being alone, so he needs to be taught that being alone is okay. You are not actually training the dog to stop making noise, you are training him to feel comfortable when he is alone and thus removing the need for him to make the noise. This is where the crate with cozy bedding and a toy comes in handy. You want to know that he is safe when you are not there to supervise, and you know that he will be safe in his crate rather than roaming freely about the house. In order for the pup to stay in his crate without making a fuss, he needs to be comfortable in his crate. On that note, it is extremely important that the crate is never used as a form of punishment, or the pup will have a negative association with the crate.
Whether you intend to hunt with your Springer or just enjoy him as a pet, the English Springer Spaniel makes a wonderful companion for the right owners.
Accustom the pup to the crate in short, gradually increasing time intervals in which you put him in the crate, maybe with a treat, and stay in the room with him. If he cries or makes a fuss, do not go to him, but stay in his sight. Gradually he will realize that staying in his crate is okay without your help, and it will not be so traumatic for him when you are not around. You may want to leave the radio on softly when you leave the house; the sound of human voices may be comforting to him.
