STRICTLY ODD-BALL

You'll probably never try these recipes since Mainlanders don't usually go for such dishes, but they're included for them what likes 'em. Who knows—they might be good! The recipes are authentic, but frankly, we didn't have the nerve to test all of them.

SNAILS WITH BEANS: Chinese

2 cans snails (or 1 lb. fresh ones if you can be sure they haven't encountered any snail bait)

1 tbsp. black beans

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1 tsp. monosodium glutamate

1 cup chicken or beef stock

½ tsp. sugar

½ tsp. salt

1 tsp. cornstarch

If you're using fresh snails, put them into a pan of cold water, then drop a clean nail into the water. It is supposed to draw out the sand. Soak for 3 ½ to 4 hours. This will not be necessary if you use the canned variety—but rinse those well. Gut off tails.

Soak beans until soft and mash them. Add crushed garlic. Remove snails from water and rinse them again. Saute garlic and beans for several minutes in butter or margarine. Add all other ingredients (except cornstarch), cover and cook 10 minutes. Make paste of cornstarch; add to above and cook 3 minutes.

Oh! we forgot—remove the nail before serving—or better yet, throw away the snails and eat the nail. (Serves 4)

STUFFED PIGS' EARS: Chinese

4 pigs' ears-no—2 pigs' ears—or would it be two pair of pigs' ears? Well, let's just say 4 ears!

4 ears

1 medium onion, sliced

¼ tsp. soy sauce

1 tbsp. cooking oil

2 tbsp. cooking wine

Parboil ears, then loose upper skin to form a pocket. Stuff with bread-type dressing, then fry lightly with sliced onion and soy sauce added to 1 tablespoon cooking oil. Add cooking wine and simmer 15 minutes. (Serves 4)

PIGS' TAILS: Chinese

Pigs' tails, previously parboiled, may also be simmered and served with the ears.

PICKLED EEL

1½ to 2 lb. eel, skinned and cleaned

Salt

½ cup soy sauce

1 tsp. monosodium glutamate

1 clove garlic, mashed

1 small onion, chopped

½ cup vinegar

Cut eels into bite-size cubes, roll cubes in salt and let stand 3 to 4 hours, then rinse well.

Mix other ingredients and boil 15 minutes; then add about half the amount of eel, cover and turn fire low. Simmer until tender. Remove these pieces and cook remaining eel in same manner. Place in deep bowl or jar. Strain broth in which it was cooked and pour over eels. Cool, then place in refrigerator for at least 4 days. Serve with your favorite dip as Pupus (Hors d'Ouevres). (Yield: about 36 bites)

PICKLED DUCK TONGUES

This one, I did try. The poultryman has doubtless forgotten me, but I'll bet he never forgets the order I gave for 1 pound of duck tongues! He did a double-take, then handed me a handful of duck heads. "Oh, no," I said, "you get them out." He apparently thought this was a gag of some kind. "But it'll take a week to get a pound of duck tongues," he said, obviously hoping I'd go 'way. "Very well," I said, "I'll be back for them in a week." He steadied himself on the edge of the counter as I left. His mother must have forgotten to tell him there'd be days like this. When I returned for the tongues, he had them, and the tab was $4.50! (When I think of the gorgeous steak that would have bought!) In cooking them I followed the recipe for Pickled Eel, above, and the results were definitely less than desired as far as I was concerned. They had a strange aroma and a fishy flavor. If you want to try them, you're on your own!

HOW TO CLEAN AND COOK A SQUID

First, you catch the squid. (If you have an expert squid catcher handy, this part is easy.) Then grasping the body firmly with the fingers of both hands, insert the thumbs and with a firm, decisive movement, turn him inside out. Now the squid is on the inside and you are on the outside, and the rest is simple. If you want to forego this revolting experience, purchase the squid already cleaned at your fish market.

Remove all the organs, being careful not to break the sac containing the black "ink." Wash thoroughly. Spread common rock salt crystals on a flat board and tenderize octopus by pounding vigorously with a hefty stick or back of a heavy cleaver, turning him over and over in the salt during this process. When the flesh is easily torn, wash in clear water and cook in boiling water for 10 minutes. He is now ready for use in various dishes.

The "Ink" really isn't harmful—in fact, it improves the flavor, but doesn't do a thing to glamorize the squid.