BOTANICAL NAME: Brassica rapa, var. parachinensis
FAMILY: Cruciferae
Choy sum looks like cabbage, but in fact it is a type of turnip green. The Chinese name does not denote a specific variety but rather a group of related plants belonging to the same species. Therefore I am not commenting on a specific cultivar by name but instead on several that are quite similar in habit and have been cultivated in China for many centuries. The Chinese do have varieties, most of which are named for the number of days it takes for them to mature, but these are not readily available in the United States.
My preference for the dwarf varieties evolved as I grew different kinds in my Pennsylvania garden to see how well they would do. Invariably, the small ones yielded the most succulent plants, made an appealing appearance even in cramped quarters, and remained harvestable over a longer period of time. Due to their small size (hardly six inches tall), they can be planted along borders or between hills of garlics and shallots or even along ridges created for sweet potatoes. By the time the sweet potatoes are running to vine, the dwarf choy sum has been harvested. All in all, they are immensely efficient in small kitchen gardens, and they add a hearty flavor to most soups, salads, and stir-fries. Furthermore, they thrive under cold frames, so they can provide a steady supply of greens early in the spring and well into the winter.
They are immensely efficient in small kitchen gardens, and they add a hearty flavor to most soups, salads, and stir-fries.
The simple beauty of the plant, with its crisp white stems and dark green leaves, recommends it for any number of elegant culinary preparations. One of the best ways to enjoy the mustardy flavors of dwarf choy sum, however, is to use it in Chinese-style hot pots. These are hearty stews prepared in large earthenware jars, usually glazed a deep chocolate brown. Chicken or duck, or just a mix of vegetables, can be cooked in these pots. The secret to the rich flavor of the stews is in using concentrated marinades that can be made ahead and kept under refrigeration for long periods of time. The hung lu (brown marinade) contains spices, soy, and Chinese wine; the pa lu (white marinade) is based on salted ingredients, such as mushrooms. These marinades add wonderful depth and flavor to even the simplest of stews. When the hot pot is brought steaming to the table, just add a small bowl of dwarf choy sum, let it wilt in the simmering broth, and serve immediately.