Part Three: The Recipes

Basic recipes for seasonings, stocks, and sauces

SEASONINGS
Roux

Used to be, young Creole and Cajun cooks were introduced to their art with the words "First you make a roux." Increasingly, this thickening and flavoring mix of flour and oil (some cooks prefer butter) is used sparingly at the end of the cooking process, affording the cook a greater degree of control.

1 cup (250 ml) vegetable oil

1 cup (110 g) all-purpose (plain) flour

Place the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat. Whisk the flour into the oil and cook slowly, watching carefully and stirring constantly until the roux reaches the desired color, about 10 to 12 minutes for a light, tan-colored roux; about 15 to 18 minutes for a medium-dark roux; and about 20 to 25 minutes for deep, dark brown roux. If the roux burns, discard it and start over. A scorched roux will contribute a bitter flavor to the finished dish. If you are using the roux to thicken a gumbo or sauce, stir about ¹/₂ CUP (125 ml) liquid from the main dish into it to stop it from cooking. Once it's premixed in this way, it is less likely to form lumps when it's added to the main dish. Yields 1 cup.

Time Estimates

Time estimates are for preparation only (excluding cooking) and are based on the assumption that a food processor or blender will be used.

quick and very easy to prepare

relatively easy, 15 to 30 minutes' preparation

takes more than 30 minutes to prepare

Seafood Boil

8 whole allspice berries

1 hot red chile pepper

1 tablespoon Creole seasoning

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 bay leaf

10 black peppercorns

Add all ingredients to boiling water. Let boil for about 1 minute to release the flavors before adding the seafood. Yields enough flavoring for 4 lb (2 kg) of seafood.

STOCKS AND SAUCES

Creole Sauce

4 tablespoons butter

¹/₂ cup (90 g) chopped green bell pepper (capsicum)

¹/₂ cup (90 g) chopped red bell pepper (capsicum)

¹/₂ cup (90 g) chopped onion

2 cups (510 g) diced tomatoes

¹/₂ teaspoon dried tarragon

¹/₂ teaspoon dried oregano

¹/₂ teaspoon dried basil

¹/₂ teaspoon dried thyme

1 tablespoon Creole seasoning

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

Salt and black pepper

Melt the butter in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the remaining ingredients and saute for 1 to 2 minutes. Simmer to reduce the liquid to one-third its volume, cool. Yields about 1 cup (250 ml).

Béarnaise Sauce

4 egg yolks at room temperature, beaten well

Juice of 1 lemon (3 tablespoons)

2 tablespoons white wine, preferably Chablis or dry vermouth

1 teaspoon finely crumbled dried tarragon

1 cup (2 sticks, or 225 g) butter, melted

Salt and black pepper

In the top of a double boiler, beat the egg yolks, lemon juice, wine, and tarragon with a whisk until the mixture thickens, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat. In a slow, steady stream, add the melted butter. Continue whisking until all the butter has been incorporated into a smooth, fluffy sauce. Season with salt and pepper. Yields about 1¹/₂ cups (375 ml).

Hollandaise Sauce

6 egg yolks, beaten well

1¹/₄ cups (2¹/₂ sticks, or 290 g) butter, melted

Salt, white pepper, and ground red pepper (cayenne)

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

In the top of a double boiler, combine the egg yolks and 1¹/₂ tablespoons water. Beat with a wire whisk over hot, but not boiling, water. Slowly add the butter and whip until the sauce begins to thicken. Add the salt and white and red pepper. Then whisk in the lemon juice. Yields about 2 cups (500 ml).

Fish Stock

1 lb (450 g) fish bones, cleaned

¹/₂ cup (100 g) chopped shallots

¹/₂ leek, chopped

¹/₂ cup (60 g) chopped celery

¹/₂ cup (8 g) chopped fresh parsley

1 pinch dried thyme

1 bay leaf

3 black peppercorns

¹/₂ cup (125 ml) white wine

Place 3 quarts (liters) of water in a stockpot, add all ingredients, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat, skim, and strain through a strainer. Either use immediately or refrigerate until ready to use. The stock can be kept refrigerated up to 3 days. Yields about 2¹/₂ quarts (liters).

Chicken Stock

2 lb (1 kg) chicken bones

1 cup (110 g) chopped carrots

¹/₂ cup (90 g) (hopped onion

¹/₂ cup (60 g) chopped celery with leaves

¹/₂ cup (8 g) chopped fresh parsley

Pinch of whole thyme

1 bay leaf

Bring 8 quarts (liters) of water to a boil in a large stockpot and add all the ingredients. Simmer for 1 hour, until the liquid is reduced by half. Allow the stock to cool, skim off all fat that gathers at the surface, and refrigerate until ready to use—up to 3 days. Yields about 4 quarts (liters).

Beef Stock

2 lb (1 kg) beef bones

2²/₃ cups (450 g) roughly chopped onions

2 cups (225 g) sliced carrots

1 cup (170 g) chopped leeks

1¹/₃ cups (140 g) chopped celery with leaves

1 cup (15 g) chopped fresh parsley

1 teaspoon dried thyme

2 bay leaves

¹/₂ head garlic, peeled

¹/₂ cup (130 g) tomato paste

5 black peppercorns

Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C, gas mark 8), and roast the bones until brown, about 30 minutes. Place them in a stockpot with 8 quarts (liters) of water, add all remaining ingredients, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 2 to 3 hours, skimming as needed. Strain the stock through a strainer, return it to the pot, and boil to reduce it to one-third its volume. This stock can be kept in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 days. Yields about 4 quarts (liters).

Fish Velouté

3/₄ cup (90 g) all-purpose (plain) flour

¹/₄ cup (¹/₂ stick, or 60 g) butter

3 cups (750 ml) Fish Stock (page 40), hot

¹/₂ cup (125 ml) heavy (whipping) cream

Salt and white pepper to taste

Nutmeg to taste

In a medium-sized saucepan over medium heat, make a roux with the flour and butter and stir until it is light brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Add the hot fish stock and boil until the reduced liquid coats a spoon. Add the cream and boil for 5 minutes, then season to taste with salt, white pepper, and nutmeg. Strain through a strainer. Yields about 2 cups (500 ml).

Marchand de Vin Sauce

3 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons all-purpose (plain) flour

¹/₂ cup (90 g) minced onion

¹/₂ cup (35 g) finely chopped fresh mushrooms

1 tomato, peeled, seeded, and minced

1 clove garlic, minced

1 celery rib, minced

2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley

2 bay leaves

¹/₄ teaspoon dried thyme

1 cup (250 ml) red wine

1 cup (250 ml) Beef Stock (this page)

Salt and black pepper

In a saucepan, combine the butter and flour together to make a roux. Cook until the roux begins to darken, then stir in the onion and mushrooms. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer for 45 minutes. Keep the sauce warm. Yields about 2 cups (500 ml).

PAIN PERDU AND BEIGNETS

PAIN PERDU

I love the name of this dessert or brunch item—lost bread. The old Creoles took special delight in devising new life for foods that had passed their prime, and since fresh French bread was always available, day-old French bread was always being displaced. Like bread pudding, here's a great example of "recycling" before it was chic. And yes, Pain Perdu is another version of French toast.

2 eggs, beaten

1 cup (250 ml) milk

1 tablespoon granulated sugar

1 pinch salt

¹/₄ teaspoon vanilla extract

6 slices day-old French bread

2 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

¹/₂ teaspoon cinnamon

Powdered sugar or cane (golden) syrup

Thoroughly combine the eggs, milk, sugar, salt, and vanilla in a bowl. Soak the slices of day-old French bread in this mixture for 2 to 3 minutes. In a large heavy skillet, heat the butter and oil, add the bread slices one or two slices at a time, and fry until they are golden brown on both sides. Sprinkle with cinnamon and serve hot with either powdered sugar or cane syrup. Serves 3 to 6.

BEIGNETS

1 cup (250 ml) scalded milk

1 egg, beaten

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 envelope (7 g) dry yeast

3 cups (340 g) all-purpose (plain) flour

1 teaspoon salt

¹/₂ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¹/₂ teaspoon ground nutmeg

Vegetable oil for deep-frying

Powdered sugar

In a large bowl, combine the milk and egg with the 2 tablespoons vegetable oil and the sugar. Blend thoroughly, then add the dry yeast and stir to dissolve. Sift together the flour, salt, and spices, then add half to the yeast mixture. Mix well. Add the remaining flour and knead to incorporate it. Form a large ball, cover, and let double in bulk, about 40 minutes. Punch down and knead until dough is elastic.

On a floured board, roll out the dough to a thickness of ¹/₄ in (¹/₂ cm) and cut into 24 5-in (13-cm) squares. Cover, allow to rise again, about 45 minutes.

Pour 3 in (8 cm) of oil into a deep-fryer or tall, heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat to 375°F (190°C). Drop in the dough squares a few at a time, cooking and turning them until golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on absorbent paper. Dust with powdered sugar. Serve hot, 3 to an order. Serves 8.

Pain Perdu (left) and Beignets (right).

EGGS HUSSARDE & EGGS SARDOU

Brennan's

EGGS HUSSARDE

The origin of this dish is mysterious. It may simply have been named for a friend of the Brennan family—no one seems to remember—or it may hark back to the French word hussard for soldier.

1 cup (250 ml) Hollandaise Sauce (page 40)

1 cup (250 ml) Marchand de Vin Sauce (page 41)

8 large thin slices of cooked ham

8 slices tomato, cut ¹/₄-in (¹/₂-cm) thick

2 teaspoons olive oil

8 eggs

8 Holland rusks or toasted English muffin halves

Paprika

Preheat the broiler (grill). Warm the hollandaise sauce in the top of a double boiler set over simmering water. Warm the marchand de vin sauce in a separate pot over low heat or in a microwave. Keep warm.

Broil the ham until browned on both sides, about 4 minutes per side. Remove and keep warm. Place the tomato slices on the broiling (grill) pan, brush with the oil, and broil (grill) until heated through and lightly browned on top, about 3 minutes. Set aside and keep warm.

Working with no more than 4 eggs at a time, slide the eggs into barely simmering water and poach for 3 to 5 minutes, until the yolk is set (for softer eggs, poach for 3 minutes; for harder eggs, continue for 5 minutes). Lift out of the water with a slotted spoon. Repeat with the remaining 4 eggs.

To assemble the dish, place a slice of the ham across each Holland rusk or English muffin. Cover with the marchand de vin sauce, followed by a slice of tomato, and then a poached egg. Spoon hollandaise sauce over the top, and add color with a sprinkle of paprika. Serves 4.

EGGS SARDOU

This elaborate egg dish, one of several that are popular at brunch in New Orleans, is named after Victorien Sardou—the French playwright famous for his melodramas, including the one that inspired the heavy-breathing Puccini opera Tosca. Sardou had breakfast at Antoine's in 1908.

4³/₄ cups (1¹/₄ liters) creamed spinach

12 fresh medium-sized artichoke bottoms, boiled

12 poached eggs

3 cups (750 ml) Hollandaise Sauce (page 40), warm

Paprika

Spoon the hot creamed spinach into the centers of 6 dinner plates. Arrange 2 hot artichoke bottoms on top of the spinach. Place a hot poached egg on each artichoke bottom and cover with hot hollandaise sauce. Sprinkle with paprika. Serves 6.

Eggs Sardou, another brunch favorite.

GRILLADES & GRITS

Brennan's

GRILLADES

For dinner, breakfast, brunch, or any other time, here's a local favorite that's sure to satisfy. The word grillades (pronounced gree-yads) refers to the meat, naturally, though in most good renditions the hearty reddish brown sauce is the real star.

2 lb (1 kg) beef or veal round, cut ¹/₂-in (1-cm) thick

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 tablespoons vegetable oil

³/₄ cup (90 g) all-purpose (plain) flour

1 large onion, thinly sliced

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 small green bell pepper (capsicum), finely chopped

1 cup (260 g) chopped tomatoes

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

¹/₈ teaspoon dried thyme

Tabasco sauce to taste

Cut the meat into 3-in (8-cm) squares. Season with salt and pepper, then dredge in the flour and shake off any excess. Heat 2 tablespoons of the cooking oil in a heavy skillet over medium heat, brown the meat lightly, about 3 minutes per side, and drain on absorbent paper.

Make a roux in the same skillet with 2 tablespoons of the flour and the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, browning the roux until it's a rich dark color, about 20 to 25 minutes. Add 1¹/₂ cups (375 ml) water and the onion, garlic, bell pepper, tomatoes, 1 tablespoon of the parsley, the thyme, and Tabasco sauce and simmer until the mixture thickens, about 15 minutes.

Return the meat to the pan, cover the skillet, and cook until tender, about 45 minutes for veal, 1 hour for beef. Stir often. Serve the grillades and sauce over hot grits. Garnish with the remaining 1 tablespoon parsley. Serves 6.

GRITS

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup (225 g) grits

¹/₄ cup (4 tablespoons) butter

Bring 5 cups (1¹/₄ liters) of water and the salt to a boil in a medium-sized saucepan, then gradually add the grits. Stirring constantly, reduce the heat and simmer until the mixture thickens, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the butter and stir until it is melted. Serves 6 (yields 5 cups, or 1¹/₄ liters).

Grits (right) arid Grillades (left) in the courtyard of Brennan's.

CRAWFISH WITH SPICY AIOLI AND TOMATOES & GOAT CHEESE WRAPPED IN FILO

Dominique Macquet, Dominique's

CRAWFISH WITH SPICY AIOLI AND TOMATOES

4 leeks, including the tender green leaves, chopped

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 lb (450 g) peeled crawfish (crayfish) tails, with liquid

1 red bell pepper (capsicum), diced

1-2 teaspoons chile powder

2 celery ribs, diced

1 large dill pickle, diced

1 medium-sized red onion, thinly sliced

¹/₂ tablespoon diced celery root (celeriac)

1 teaspoon paprika

1 teaspoon granulated garlic

3 tablespoons mayonnaise, homemade

1 egg yolk

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 cup (250 ml) peanut oil

6 thick slices vine-ripe tomato or garlic toast

Sauté the leeks in butter over medium-high heat until golden, about 8 minutes. Then stir in the crawfish tails and bell pepper. Saute until the liquid dries up, about 10 minutes. Stir in the chile powder, remove from the heat, and let cool.

In a food processor or blender, combine the celery, pickle, onion, celery root, paprika, garlic, mayonnaise, egg yolk, and lemon juice. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the oil until fully incorporated. Fold in the crawfish mixture. Serve on slices of tomato, slices of garlic toast, or both. Serves 6.

GOAT CHEESE WRAPPED IN FILO

10 white onions

11 oz (310 g) goat cheese

2 cups (500 ml) balsamic vinegar

1 cup (250 ml) honey

2 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

4 sheets filo dough

¹/₄ cup (¹/₂ stick, or 4 tablespoons) melted butter

The day before serving, slice the onions, place in a large skillet, and cook in their own juices on low heat for 4 hours, stirring occasionally. Let cool. The next day, cut the goat cheese into 6 portions. Over low heat, cook the onions for another 2 hours until they are soft and caramelized, then add 1 cup (250 ml) of the vinegar and 3/₄ cup (190 ml) of the honey. Reduce the liquid until it is syrupy, then let it cool. Add the chopped thyme.

Stack the filo, brushing each layer with butter. Cut the stack into 6 equal portions. Place one piece of the goat cheese in the middle of each piece of filo. Add about 1 tablespoon of the caramelized onion and wrap like a beggar's purse, lifting the corners and squeezing them together at the top.

Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C, gas mark 2) and bake for 5 to 6 minutes, until golden brown. Dissolve the remaining honey in the remaining vinegar, then sprinkle this on the filo packets. Serves 6.

Goat Cheese Wrapped in Filo (left) and Crawfish with Spicy Aioli and Tomatoes (right).

CRAWFISH BEIGNETS & CRAWFISH CARDINAL

CRAWFISH BEIGNETS

Don't worry if these savory tidbits remind you of conch fritters in the Caribbean: it's not the first or last time a food inspiration made its way up from the islands. In fact, locals sometimes refer to New Orleans as the "northernmost Caribbean island." No problem!

1 cup (110 g) all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 cup (250 ml) water

2 teaspoons chopped garlic

¹/₂ cup (90 g) chopped pimiento

3  scallions (spring onions), chopped

8 drops Tabasco sauce

1 pinch salt

8 oz (225 g) cooked crawfish (crayfish) tails

Vegetable oil for deep-frying

Lemon wedges

In a bowl, combine all ingredients in the order listed, except the oil and lemon wedges. Cover the bowl with a damp towel and set aside for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oil in a deep-fryer or tall, heavy saucepan to 360°F (180°C). Drop the beignet batter by spoonfuls into the oil and fry until golden brown, 5 to 6 minutes. Do not fry more than a few fritters at a time. Drain and serve hot, garnishing each plate with a lemon wedge. Serves 4 to 6.

CRAWFISH CARDINAL

The allusion here is to a sauce as red as a Catholic cardinal's robe—neither the first nor the last time religion and cuisine operated on the same plane in New Orleans. In the spirit of true ecumenism, the same sauce works fantastically with shrimp, crabmeat, oysters—or all of the above.

3 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons all-purpose (plain) flour

2 tablespoons chopped scallions (spring onions)

¹/₄ cup (60 ml) white wine

1 cup (250 ml) milk

1 tablespoon tomato paste

Salt, ground white pepper, and ground red pepper (cayenne) to taste

1¹/₂ lb (680 g) peeled crawfish (crayfish) tails French bread croutons

In a large skillet, blend together the butter and the flour, stirring for about 2 minutes. Then add the scallions, wine, and milk. Bring to a simmer. Stir in the tomato paste and season to taste with salt and the two peppers. Add the crawfish tails and simmer for 10 minutes.

To serve, spoon the crawfish and sauce into small bowls and garnish with French bread croutons. Serves 6.

Crawfish Beignets (left) and Crawfish Cardinal (right).

BAKED OYSTERS

Arnaud's

So many New Orleanians start a meal with baked oysters that it almost seems mandatory. The process is always the same: Prepare a topping, preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C, gas mark 6), spoon the topping over raw oysters on the half shell, then bake for 7 to 10 minutes, or until the topping is heated through and golden. Then devour.

For a presentation that you would find in a restaurant, for each serving, fill a metal pie plate with rock salt. Set 6 oysters in the rock salt to hold them in place. Then top and bake. Set the pie plate on a dinner plate to serve. The following recipes yield enough topping for 36 oysters.

OHAN TOPPING

1¹/₃ cups (315 ml) olive oil

3 large eggplant (aubergine) (about 4 lb, or 2 kg), peeled and diced

³/₄ cup (45 g) chopped scallions (spring onions)

1 tablespoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon dried marjoram

1 teaspoon dried oregano

3 bay leaves

2 cups (520 g) diced tomatoes, undrained

1 teaspoon chopped garlic

¹/₃ cup (5 tablespoons) chopped fresh parsley

Salt and pepper

Heat the olive oil in a pot over high heat. Add the eggplant and saute for 7 minutes. Add the scallions, thyme, marjoram, oregano, and bay leaves and saute for 4 minutes. Add the diced tomatoes, bring to a boil, and simmer for 3 minutes.

Add the garlic and chopped parsley, cooking for 5 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Remove the bay leaves. Allow to cool completely before spooning atop the oysters and baking as directed above.

KATHRYN TOPPING

³/₄ cup (1¹/₂ sticks, or 170 g) butter

2¹/₄ cups (400 g) finely chopped white onions

3¹/₂ cups (385 g) finely chopped celery

7¹/₂ cups (2 liters) artichoke bottoms or hearts, boiled and finely chopped

2 bay leaves

Ground red pepper (cayenne)

³/₄ cup (175 ml) sherry

3 cups (750 ml) Fish Velouté (page 41)

1 cup (125 g) unseasoned dry bread crumbs

Salt and white pepper

Melt the butter in a saucepan over high heat. Add the onions and celery, and saute until transparent, about 5 minutes. Add the artichokes, bay leaves, and red pepper to taste, then add the sherry. Add the fish velouté and bring to a boil.

Reduce the heat and simmer for 4 minutes, then add the bread crumbs and stir until the mixture becomes a paste.

Season to taste with salt and white pepper, and remove the bay leaves. Allow to cool completely before spooning atop oysters and baking as directed above.

These baked oysters (left) and fresh oysters on the half shell (right) are served on French trompe l'oeil pieces created circa 1870. These decorative platters became popular during the Victorian era, when platters were even created for specific types of oysters.

This nineteenth-century French or Austrian oyster plate has pearlized seaweed hand painted between the oyster wells.

SUZETTE TOPPING

10 tablespoons (1¹/₄ sticks, or 140 g) butter

6 slices raw bacon, chopped

2¹/₈ Cups (130 g) finely chopped celery

3¹/₂ cups (325 g) finely chopped scallions

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley

2²/₃ cups (450 g) chopped red pimientos

2 bay leaves

1 pinch dried whole thyme

Ground red pepper (cayenne) to taste

6 tablespoons brandy

5¹/₃ cups (1¹/₄ liters) Fish Velouté (page 41)

Salt and white pepper

Melt the butter in a saucepan over high heat. Add the bacon and saute for 2 minutes, then add all the vegetables, herbs, and red pepper to taste. Cook for 3 minutes, then add the brandy and fish velouté. Boil for 2 minutes, then reduce the heat and simmer for 2 minutes.

Season with salt and white pepper. Remove the bay leaves. Allow to cool before spooning atop the oysters and baking as directed above.

OYSTERS ROCKEFELLER

This dish was created at Antoine's and so named because the sauce atop the oysters was so rich it was worthy of, well, Rockefeller. Antoine's has maintained a veil of secrecy over its recipe, but here's one variation that will produce similar magnificent results.

¹/₂ lb (225 g) spinach

1 bunch celery

1 bunch scallions (spring onions)

1 fennel bulb

1  bunch parsley

2¹/₂ cups (5 sticks, or 570 g) unsalted butter

4 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

2 tablespoons Pernod

Salt, black pepper, and ground red pepper (cayenne)

Finely chop the greens, then melt the butter and add the greens. Stir in the liquid ingredients, then season to taste with the remaining salt and both peppers. Preheat broiler (grill). Set 6 oysters on each of 6 pie pans filled with rock salt. Top each oyster with the vegetable mixture and place under the broiler (grill) until heated through, 5 to 6 minutes. Serve at once. Serves 6.

This Limoges oyster plate, in an unusually deep shade of yellow, dates from the nineteenth century.

OYSTERS BONNE FEMME

There are several variations of this oyster dish anointed with the French phrase for "good woman." This recipe departs from the classic version along a path pioneered by Antoine's. One thing is certain: you'll thank the good woman, or the good man, who makes this for you.

3 dozen shelled raw oysters in their liquor

3 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons all-purpose (plain) flour

¹/₂ cup (125 ml) dry white wine

3/₄ cup (45 g) chopped scallions (spring onions)

1 tablespoon fresh chopped parsley

Salt and ground white pepper

1 cup (110 g) lump crabmeat

3 tablespoons grated Swiss cheese

3 tablespoons grated Romano cheese

¹/₄ cup (30 g) dry bread crumbs

Using the oyster liquor, poach the bivalves until plump and opaque, about 5 minutes. Strain and set aside, reserving the cooking liquid from the process. Melt the butter in a saucepan and blend in the flour, cooking until the mixture becomes foamy, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and scallions, bring to a boil, and add the oyster liquor. Add the chopped parsley, season to taste, and simmer over low heat for 15 minutes. Carefully mix in the oysters and crabmeat, keeping the crab in lumps.

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C, gas mark 6). To finish the dish, spoon this mixture into ovenproof dishes or ramekins. Mix together the grated cheeses and bread crumbs, then sprinkle atop the oysters and crabmeat. Bake in the oven until the cheese is melted and the top begins to brown, about 10 minutes. Serves 8.

The realistic fish on this starfish-shaped platter are characteristic of the Pallisy style circa 1870.

OYSTER-STUFFED ARTICHOKES & CRABMEAT RAVIGOTE

OYSTER-STUFFED ARTICHOKES

The influence of New Orleans' large Sicilian population is felt in any dish involving the stuffing of artichokes—and almost every restaurant has some such dish. Here's one that's both extra simple and extra good.

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

4 scallions (spring onions), chopped

2 tablespoons all-purpose (plain) flour

2 dozen oysters

1 cup (250 ml) oyster liquor

6 fresh artichoke hearts, thinly sliced

2-3 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

Salt and black pepper

4 whole fresh artichokes

¹/₄ cup (25 g) Parmesan cheese

Prepare the whole artichokes. Trim off the top quarter of leaves. Snap off the bottom row of leaves. Cut the stem so the artichoke stands. Rub all of the cut surface with a lemon wedge. Steam the whole artichokes for 45 minutes or until tender. Drain them and set them aside to cool. When they are cool enough to handle, gently force open the leaves and remove the center leaves and the choke.

While the artichokes are cooking, melt the butter in a large skillet, add the scallions, and saute. Stir in the flour until smooth, then add the oysters, oyster liquor, artichoke hearts, and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper. Simmer for 10 minutes, until the sauce thickens and the hearts are tender.

Preheat the broiler (grill). Spoon the artichoke and oyster mixture into the prepared artichokes, sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, and place under the preheated broiler (grill) for about 5 minutes, until the cheese turns golden brown. Serves 4.

CRABMEAT RAVIGOTE

Here's a simple starter with a French verb half-hidden in its name: ravigoter, or to invigorate. This New Orleans recipe is quite different from French ravigote sauces.

1 cup (250 ml) mayonnaise

1¹/₂ tablespoons minced green bell pepper (capsicum)

1¹/₂ tablespoons minced scallions (spring onion)

1¹/₂ tablespoons minced anchovies

1¹/₂ tablespoons minced pimiento

4¹/₂ cups (510 g) lump crabmeat

Shredded lettuce

In a bowl, mix together all ingredients except the crabmeat and lettuce and chill in the refrigerator. Carefully blend the crabmeat with the chilled sauce, preserving the lumps. Chill mixture in the refrigerator. Serve atop shredded lettuce. Serves 6.

Crabmeat Ravigote (left) and Oyster-stuffed Artichokes (right).

SHRIMP AND TASSO WITH FIVE-PEPPER JELLY

Jamie Shannon, Commander's Palace

Here's a new-style starter that combines the peppery flavors of Louisiana pepper sauce with the sweet-pungent taste of pepper jelly. It's a country concept that definitely made it to town, judging by the elegance of its final form.

Five-Pepper Jelly

6 tablespoons honey

3/₄ cup (190 ml) white vinegar

1 each rod, yellow, and green bell peppers (capsicums), diced

1 jalapeno pepper, diced

¹/₄ teaspoon ground black pepper Salt

Crystal Beurre Blanc

¹/₄ teaspoon minced garlic

¹/₄ teaspoon chopped shallots

2 teaspoons vegetable oil

10 tablespoons Crystal hot sauce or other Louisiana hot sauce

¹/₄ cup (4 tablespoons) heavy (whipping) cream

1¹/₂ lb (6 sticks, or 680 g) unsalted butter, softened

36 jumbo shrimps (prawns), peeled and deveined

¹/₂ lb (225 g) tasso (see page 37), julienned

1 cup (110 g) all-purpose (plain) flour seasoned with salt and pepper

Vegetable oil

36 pickled okra (ladies' fingers)

To make the five-pepper jelly, pour the honey and vinegar into a pot and reduce over medium heat until sticky, about 5 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients and cook until the peppers are soft, 3 to 4 minutes. Add salt to taste.

Prepare the crystal beurre blanc by sauteing the garlic and shallots in a pan with the vegetable oil. Add the hot sauce and reduce by 75 percent, then add the cream and reduce the liquid by half. Whip in the butter a little at a time.

To finish the dish, make a ¹/₄-in (6-mm) incision down the back of each shrimp and place a strip of tasso in each. Secure with a toothpick. Lightly dust each shrimp with seasoned flour. Heat about 2 in (5 cm) of oil in a large skillet and fry the shrimp until golden.

Place the cooked shrimp in a bowl with the beurre blanc and toss until well coated. Spread the pepper jelly on the bottom of a small dish and arrange the shrimp, alternating them with pickled okra. Serves 8.

SHRIMP BAYOU LAFOURCHE

Andrea Apuzzo, Andrea's Restaurant

What happens when a Capri-born, European-trained chef adopts New Orleans as his home and comes into a delivery of picture-perfect local shrimp? Hopefully something like this reborn classic, named after an important bayou running along the eastern edge of Cajun Country.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

4 teaspoons chopped shallots

2 teaspoons chopped garlic

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper

24 medium-sized shrimp (prawns), peeled and deveined but with tails on

3 tablespoons brandy

¹/₂ cup (125 ml) dry white wine

¹/₂ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

Juice of 1 lemon

1 teaspoon fresh rosemary leaves

¹/₂ teaspoon salt

¹/₄ teaspoon ground white pepper

Ground red pepper (cayenne)

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

4 lemon wedges for garnish

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat and saute the shallots, garlic, and crushed red pepper until the shallots are transparent, about 3 minutes. Then add the shrimp and cook, turning once, just until they turn pink, about 3 minutes. Add the brandy, then remove the shrimp and keep them warm.

Add all the other ingredients to the skillet, except the butter, and simmer until the sauce is reduced by a third—about 10 minutes. Whisk in the butter. Return the shrimp to the pan and cook for 3 to 4 minutes more, coating them well with the sauce. Garnish with lemon wedges and serve. Serves 4.

SHRIMP RÉMOULADE

This dish comes in two colors around New Orleans —and either color is light years removed from the bland white or green versions found in France. This recipe tends toward the red, though in the local renditions pungent Creole mustard is the key.

2 lb (1 kg) fresh medium-sized shrimp (prawns) in shell

1 large garlic clove, crushed

1 teaspoon black peppercorns, crushed

1 teaspoon salt

Remoulade Sauce

2 tablespoons Creole mustard

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

Salt and black pepper to taste

1 cup (250 ml) olive oil

1 tablespoon paprika

¹/₂ cup (60 g) finely chopped celery

1 cup (105 g) chopped scallions (spring onions)

1 teaspoon chopped garlic

¹/₂ cup (7 g) chopped fresh parsley

2 tablespoons freshly grated horseradish

¹/₈ teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Romaine lettuce, shredded

8 tomato slices

Lemon wedges

Black olives

Put the shrimp in a saucepan with water to cover. Add the garlic, peppercorns, and salt. Gradually bring to a boil over medium heat. Simmer the shrimp for about 1 minute, remove from the heat, drain, and allow to cool. Peel and devein.

To prepare the rémoulade sauce, combine the mustard and vinegar with salt and pepper to taste in a mixing bowl, beating with a wire whisk. Gradually add the olive oil, whisking constantly. Then whisk in the remaining sauce ingredients. Mix the sauce with the peeled shrimp and set in refrigerator for at least 1 hour, though overnight is best.

When you are ready to serve, arrange the shredded Romaine lettuce and 1 tomato slice each on 8 salad plates. Spoon the shrimp and sauce onto the lettuce, and garnish with lemon wedges and black olives. Serves 8.

CHICKEN AND ANDOUILLE GUMBO

Away from the coast, a tradition grew up of using chicken to make a gumbo that could compete with the finest made with seafood. The two recipes have many similarities, of course, but time-honored differences, too. Here's a terrific chicken gumbo made with Louisiana's own andouille sausage. You'll also run into this dish called by the colorful name Gumbo Ya-Ya.

1 5-lb (2¹/₂-kg) hen, cut into 10 pieces

Salt, ground red pepper (cayenne), and garlic powder

2¹/₂ cups (280 g) all-purpose (plain) flour

1 cup (250 ml) vegetable oil

2 cups (340 g) chopped onions

1¹/₂ cups (170 g) chopped celery

1¹/₂ teaspoons minced garlic

2 cups (340 g) chopped green bell pepper

6 cups (1¹/₂ liters) Chicken Stock (page 41)

1 lb (450 g) andouille sausage (or any spicy smoked sausage), chopped

Hot cooked white rice

Season the chicken pieces with the salt, red pepper, and garlic powder; let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes. Place the flour in a large paper bag, add the chicken and shake until well coated. Reserve the flour.

In a large skillet, brown the chicken in the hot oil. Remove the chicken and set aside. When cooled, cut all meat from the bones and cut into chunks and set aside.

Using a wire whisk, loosen the browned particles from the bottom of the skillet, then stir in 1 cup (110 g) of the reserved flour. Stir constantly over medium-high heat until the roux is dark brown, 10 to 15 minutes.

Remove from heat and add the chopped vegetables, stirring to stop the roux from browning while cooking the vegetables for about 5 minutes. Transfer this mixture to a large pot, pour in the chicken stock, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer; add the sausage and the deboned chicken. Continue cooking for 45 minutes over low heat.

Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve in soup bowls over steamed white rice. Serves 8.

Chicken and Andouille Gumbo (left) and Crawfish Biscque (right, recipe not included) shot on location at Tezcuco Plantation.

SEAFOOD GUMBO

Commander's Palace

Gumbo comes from the African word gombo, referring to okra (ladies' fingers). The Choctaw Indians used ground sassafras leaves (file) as a thickener for this stew instead of okra.

Roux

3/₄ cup (175 ml) vegetable oil

3/₄ cup (90 g) all-purpose (plain) flour, sifted

4 large onions, diced

1 medium bunch of celery, cleaned and diced

4 green or red bell peppers (capsicums), diced

12 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper or 5 fresh cayenne peppers, diced

1 pinch oregano

1 pinch basil

1 pinch thyme

4 bay leaves

Salt and black pepper

8 cups (2 liters) Fish Stock (page 40) or cold water

1¹/₂ lb (675 g) gumbo crabs (hard-shelled tops off, lungs removed, and cut in half with claws cracked with the back of a knife)

2 links andouille sausage (about 1 lb, or 450 g), sliced in ¹/₄-in (¹/₂ -cm) pieces or any other smoked, firm sausage

1 lb (450 g) sliced okra (ladies' fingers)

1 lb (450 g) peeled medium shrimp (prawns)

1 quart (1 liter) shucked oysters in their liquor

Louisiana hot sauce

Place the oil in a large pot over high heat and heat the oil to the smoking point, about 5 minutes. Slowly add the sifted flour, stirring constantly until the mixture is the color of chocolate, about 3 to 5 minutes (timing will vary).

Once the roux is the right color, add the onions and cook them for one minute, then add the celery. Cook the celery for 30 seconds, then add the bell peppers, making sure to scrape the bottom of the pot. The aroma from this mixture should be wonderful.

Once the bell peppers have begun to soften, add the garlic, cayenne pepper, oregano, basil, thyme, and bay leaves. Season the mixture lightly with salt and black pepper.

Add the fish stock while stirring constantly. Then add the crabs, sausage, and okra. Bring the mixture to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer the mixture for about one hour, constantly skimming off any oil or impurities. After one hour the crab meat will look like white strings, when this happens, add the shrimp and cook them for 10 minutes. Then add the oysters and their liquor and bring the gumbo to a boil. Finish by adding your favorite Louisiana hot sauce, salt, and black pepper to taste.

Serve the gumbo over fluffy white rice. Serves 12 as an entrée.

TURTLE SOUP

Naturally, the key to making turtle soup is ground turtle meat, which is available in many New Orleans meat markets and especially in small, ethnic groceries. Ground veal works well as a substitute, but you can't call it turtle soup with no turtle in the pot.

¹/₄ cup (60 g) salt

1¹/₂ cups (340 g) fresh or frozen turtle meat

6 cups (1¹/₂ liters) Chicken Stock (page 41) or veal stock

2 garlic cloves, chopped

2 bay leaves

1 pinch dried whole thyme

3 tablespoons tomato paste

¹/₂ cup (60 g) chopped celery

1 cup (105 g) chopped scallions (spring onions)

¹/₂ cup (90 g) chopped onions

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

1 lemon, cut in half

3-3¹/₂ tablespoons sherry

2 eggs, hard-boiled and chopped

Salt and white pepper

2 tablespoons roux (optional)

To cook the turtle meat, bring 4 quarts (liters) of water to a boil in a large pot with the salt and simmer the meat for 45 minutes. Drain off the water and chop the meat coarsely. Set aside until needed.

In a large pot, bring the chicken stock, garlic, bay leaves, and thyme to a boil. Add the tomato paste, vegetables, parsley, and lemon. Return to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the meat and the sherry, return to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove the lemon.

Add the eggs. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Thicken if desired by adding small amounts of roux. Serve in soup bowls, preferably with a final splash (about half a tablespoon) of sherry. Serves 6.

Helpful hint: New Creole cooks sometimes substitute alligator meat for the turtle. With more than one hundred 'gator farms in Louisiana, alligator is readily available. With either veal or alligator as a substitute, omit the first step of boiling the meat with the water and salt. Instead, add the meat when you add the sherry to the stock, and simmer the soup until the meat is tender, about 25 minutes, before adding the eggs.

LOBSTER BISQUE

Sazerac Restaurant, Fairmont Hotel

This classic French preparation has been a signature dish of the Sazerac Restaurant at the Fairmont Hotel for several decades. It is exceedingly rich, and lush and filling—something to keep in mind when planning any menu around it. At the restaurant, the soup always gets a final baptism with cognac at the table.

1 cup (2 sticks, or 225 g) unsalted butter

8 lobster shells

8 onions

4 fennel tops

1 celery rib

4 cups (1 liter) white wine

2 cups (500 ml) brandy

2 cups (500 ml) tomato paste

1 cup (90 g) white peppercorns

Roux

³/₄ cup (90 g) all-purpose (plain) flour

6 tablespoons vegetable oil or butter

Boiled lobster tails

Whipped cream

Cognac (optional)

Prepare a flavorful lobster stock by melting the butter in a large soup pot. Add the lobster shells and saute for about 15 minutes, then add the vegetables, wine, brandy, tomato paste, and peppercorns. Stir for about 5 minutes, then add water to cover (1 to 2 cups, or 250 to 500 ml), and simmer for 3 hours. Cool and strain.

Make the light roux by mixing the flour and oil or butter together in a heavy-bottomed pan and cooking over low heat for about 10 to 12 minutes, until light brown.

To finish the bisque, heat the lobster stock and blend in the roux until the mixture coats a spoon. Chop the lobster meat. Serve the bisque in soup bowls, garnished with chopped lobster meat, a dollop of whipped cream, and cognac, if desired. Serves 6.

Lobster Bisque, a signature dish of the Sazerac, served in its glowing dining room.

OYSTER STEW

Arnaud's

In the classic Creole restaurants, this might be upgraded on the menu to oysters stewed in cream. Yet at heart it remains a simple, hearty, warming soup constructed around Louisiana's succulent and salty bivalve.

36 oysters

1 quart (1 liter) milk

2 pints (1 liter) half-and-half (half cream)

2 tablespoons (¹/₄ stick) butter

Salt and black pepper

Chopped fresh parsley

Shuck the oysters, reserving the liquor in the shells. Combine the milk and the half-and-half in a medium-sized pot, heating to just below scalding. Add the oysters with their reserved liquor and season with salt and pepper. Simmer for 5 minutes.

When ready to serve, ladle the oyster stew into bowls. Garnish with chopped parsley and a grind of black pepper. Serves 6.

OYSTER AND ARTICHOKE SOUP

This is one of those traditional dishes that no one remembers being without—yet whose rise to menu prominence is the work of a single chef, Warren LeRuth of the passionately remembered LeRuth's. The silky texture of this flavorful soup verges on the legendary.

2 large artichokes

15 oysters, with their liquor

2 bay leaves

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup (100 g) chopped scallions (spring onions)

2 garlic cloves, minced

4 tablespoons all-purpose (plain) flour

¹/₄teaspoon ground thyme

1 teaspoon salt

Ground white pepper

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Chopped fresh parsley

Place the artichokes in enough salted water to cover. Bring to a boil and cook for about 30 minutes or until tender. Remove from the water and cool. Peel off the leaves. Remove, slice, and set aside the hearts and bottoms.

In a large pot, bring 5 cups (1 ¹/₄ liters) of water to a boil, then add the oysters with their liquor and the bay leaves. Simmer over low heat for about 20 minutes.

Melt the butter in a separate pot, add the scallions and saute until tender, about 3 minutes. Add the minced garlic followed by the flour, blending well. Pour in the stock and the simmering oysters. Continue stirring over medium heat until the soup thickens.

Remove 3 oysters, chop them fine, and return them to the pot, followed by the sliced artichoke hearts and bottoms. Season with the thyme, salt, and pepper. Add the lemon juice, sprinkle the top of the soup with parsley. Simmer for 10 minutes more. Serves 6.

JAMBALAYA & MAQUE CHOUX

JAMBALAYA

Jambalaya provides New Orleanians with a basic recipe into which they can toss in virtually anything from the refrigerator that's about to go bad. Don't worry if some people's jambalaya is dark brown while others' is brightest red—no two recipes are alike.

2 lb (1 kg) ham, cubed

2 lb (1 kg) smoked sausage, sliced into coins ¹/₄-in (¹/₂-cm) thick

1 large onion, chopped

¹/₂ cup (90 g) chopped green bell pepper (capsicum)

¹/₂ cup (7 g) chopped fresh parsley

2 celery ribs, chopped

5 garlic cloves, chopped

3 ripe tomatoes, chopped

1 teaspoon dried thyme

2 bay leaves

Salt and black pepper

2 cups (400 g) uncooked long-grain rice

In a heavy-bottomed skillet with a right cover, brown the ham and sausage, then pour off the excess drippings. Add the onion and stir over medium heat until limp, about 3 minutes. Then add the green pepper, parsley, celery, garlic, tomatoes, thyme, and bay leaves. Season with salt and pepper.

Bring to a boil and cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes, then add the rice and 2¹/₂ cups (625 ml) water. Cover and set over low heat for 25 minutes. Do not uncover until you check for doneness, near the end of cooking time. The dish is done when the rice is tender and all the liquid is absorbed. Fluff with a fork and serve. Serves 10.

MAQUE CHOUX

This dish was probably learned by the French from the Indians.

16 ears fresh corn on the cob

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 cup (170 g) chopped onion

1 cup (170 g) chopped green bell pepper (capsicum)

1 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

¹/₂ teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)

2 cups (520 g) chopped tomatoes

Salt

3 tablespoons heavy (whipping) cream

Using a sharp knife, cut the kernels from the cobs and scrape to obtain the milky pulp, producing about 8 cups (2 liters). In a skillet, heat the butter and oil, and cook the onion and green pepper until wilted, about 3 minutes. Add the corn and peppers, cooking until the corn starts to stick to the bottom, about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes, salt, and cream. Cook until thick, about 10 minutes. Serve hot. Serves 10 to 12.

Jambalaya (left) and Maque Choux (right).

SOUFFLÉ POTATOES

Legend has it that these sublime "French fries" were created when a chef to the French king set out to greet the royal train with the royal fried potatoes. The train, however, was late, the potatoes were fried—and the chef was ready to lose his head. When the monarch arrived, the desperate chef plunged the cooked potatoes into oil that had been heating all this time, and they puffed up in the most extraordinary way. Now it's our turn: we lose our heads every time we nibble on Souffle Potatoes, especially when they're dipped in lush bearnaise sauce.

8 large Idaho potatoes

4 quarts (liters) frying oil

Béarnaise Sauce (page 40)

Peel and slice the potatoes ¹/₈ -in (3-mm) thick, preferably with a French kitchen device known as a mandoline. Heat the oil in the kettle to 300 to 350°F (150 to 180°C) and fry the potato slices in batches until they rise to the top of the oil, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon. Drain and cool to room temperature.

Just before serving, heat the oil to 425 to 500°F (220 to 260°C) and drop in the potatoes in small batches and cook until they are puffed and golden. Drain on absorbent paper, sprinkle to taste with salt, and serve with bearnaise sauce for dipping.

Serves 4 to 6.

Helpful hint: With so much hot oil involved in the process, please be careful not to spill on, splash, or burn yourself.

SEAFOOD BOIL & BARBECUED SHRIMP

SEAFOOD BOIL

Whether you're boiling shrimp, crawfish, or crabs, be sure to do the whole New Orleans bit, from serving the shellfish dumped out on newspaper (even if not the local Times-Picayune!) to whipping up a cocktail sauce with a little too much horseradish and hot pepper sauce. That's the way we like it.

1 cup (265 g) salt

1 lemon, sliced

¹/₂ bunch celery with leaves, chopped

2 large onions, chopped

¹/₂ bulb garlic, chopped

2 packages Seafood Boil (see page 36)

1 teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)

10 lb (4¹/₂ kg) medium-sized shrimp (prawns), with heads and shells on, well rinsed

Put everything but the shrimp in a large pot and fill the pot with water. Boil for 30 minutes to extract the flavor from the spices. Then add the shrimp. When the liquid returns to a boil, cook for 10 to 15 minutes, until the shrimp are firm and peel easily. When the shrimp are cooked, carry the pot to the sink, drain, and wash the shrimp with cold water to stop the cooking. Serves 5.

BARBECUED SHRIMP

This dish was created at a restaurant called Pascal's Manale—don't try to figure out the grammar; that's just what it's called. And speaking of what things are called, barbecued shrimp aren't barbecued at all. They're basically a festival of butter, garlic, and pepper, all longing to be sopped up with slices of French bread.

1 cup (2 sticks, or 225 g) unsalted butter

1 tablespoon minced garlic

¹/₂ teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)

2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon salt

4 lb (2 kg) large shrimp (prawns), preferably with heads and shells on, well rinsed

2 lemons

Divide the butter between 2 large skillets. Melt over medium heat, then add the garlic, peppers, and salt, dividing evenly into both skillets. Add half the shrimp to each pan and cook, turning frequently, until the shrimp are pink on both sides and firm, 4 to 5 minutes. Squeeze into the pans the juice of the lemons. Spoon the shrimp into bowls and serve with French bread. Serves 6.

Barbecued Shrimp (back, left) and Seafood Boil (front, right) The Greek Revival cottage of Tezcuco Plantation was built in 1855.

SEAFOOD FRIED IN CORNMEAL

The Cabin

Though the cooking times may vary slightly from seafood to seafood, the key here is frying at 375°F (190°C). That way the seafood is cooked before the batter gets too brown.

1 lb (450 g) raw seafood (shucked oysters, peeled shrimp/prawns, fish fillets)

¹/₂ cup (60 g) cornmeal (maize meal), preferably yellow

¹/₂ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¹/₈ teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)

¹/₈ teaspoon paprika

Salt

Vegetable oil for frying

Cocktail sauce

Rinse the seafood and drain, keeping types separate. Pat dry. Combine the cornmeal with all ingredients, except the oil and the cocktail sauce. Blend well. Heat the oil in a skillet or fryer to 375°F (190°C).

Dredge the seafood in the seasoned cornmeal and drop a few at a time in the hot oil. Stir often, frying until golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove and drain on paper towels. Let the oil return to the proper temperature before cooking the next batch. Serve with cocktail sauce. Serves 2.

Fried catfish, frog's legs, shrimp, and soft-shell crab fried in cornmeal are specialties of The Cabin, which was originally a slave dwelling on the Monroe Plantation The immense wooden alligator was carved from a huge cypress log.

SHRIMP CREOLE

The presence of tomatoes in a recipe is, in New Orleans, a sign that either Spanish or Sicilian cooks were in the kitchen on the day the dish was first made. In this case, the Spanish are prime suspects.

2 tablespoons butter

1 large green bell pepper (capsicum), finely chopped

1 medium-sized onion, finely chopped

2 celery ribs, finely chopped

2 tablespoons all-purpose (plain) flour

1 large bay leaf

2  cups (520 g) chopped tomatoes

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

¹/₂ teaspoon dried thyme leaves

¹/₂ teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon salt

6 drops Tabasco sauce

2 lb (1 kg) shrimp (prawns), peeled and deveined

White rice, cooked

Melt the butter in a large, heavy skillet and add the bell pepper, onion, and celery. Saute for about 5 minutes, until limp. Add the flour, stirring until brown. Add all other ingredients except the shrimp and rice. Stir until the mixture reaches a low boil and begins to thicken. Reduce the heat, cover, and cook for 30 minutes to blend the flavors.

Just before serving, add the shrimp to the sauce and stir just until they are pink but still firm, about 3 minutes. Remove the bay leaf and spoon the shrimp and vegetables over mounds of white rice. Serves 4 to 6.

A lunch of Shrimp Creole and rice at Laura Plantation.

POMPANO EN PAPILLOTE

From the famous Antoine's restaurant, this "pompano in a paper bag" recipe was created to honor a French balloonist, and it does indeed show a resemblance to a balloon. Be sure to slice open the bag right in front of the person who'll eat the pompano inside; the aromas are incredible.

Sauce

1¹/₂ tablespoons butter

1 garlic clove, minced

1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley

1 tablespoon chopped scallion (spring onion)

1 shallot, minced

24 oysters, shucked

24 shrimp (prawns), peeled and deveined

2 teaspoons Creole seasoning

1 tablespoon all-purpose (plain) flour

4 cups (1 liter) Fish Stock (pages 40)

1 cup (250 ml) champagne

2 cups (500 ml) heavy (whipping) cream

4 8- to 10-in (20- to 25-cm) circles of parchment paper

4 tablespoons (¹/₂ stick) butter

8 6- to 8-oz (170- to 225-g) pompano fillets

16 medium-sized shrimp (prawns), peeled and deveined

16 raw oysters, shucked

¹/₄ teaspoon Creole seasoning

To prepare the sauce, saute the butter, garlic, parsley, scallion, shallot, oysters, shrimp, and Creole seasoning in a large saute pan for 1 minute. Stir in the flour. Add the fish stock, champagne, and heavy cream. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and reduce the sauce until thickened, 10 to 15 minutes. Reserve.

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Cut the parchment sheets into heart shapes and butter them on the inside. Spoon some sauce into the center of the 4 parchment hearts and set 2 pompano fillets on top of it. Set 2 shrimp and 2 oysters on top of each piece of fish, then sprinkle with Creole seasoning.

Carefully fold the paper in from the corners till it forms a sealed packet. Bake in the oven for about 15 minutes, until the parchment bags are puffed. To serve, cut open the top of each bag. Serves 4.

LOBSTER WITH SPINACH LEAVES

Dominique Macquet, Dominique's

A very luxurious lobster dish from an innovative New Orleans chef.

5 lb (2¹/₂ kg) small Koma (plum) tomatoes, blanched and peeled

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon (265 ml) olive oil

¹/₄ cup (50 g) minced garlic

2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves

2 lb (1 kg) spinach leaves

10 shallots, diced

Salt and black pepper to taste

4 Maine lobsters, about 2 lb (1 kg) each, cooked

Sauce

2 onions, chopped

2 carrots, chopped

4 celery ribs, chopped

1 tablespoon Pernod

1 cup (225 g) crème fraiche

1 oz (30 g) caviar

Prepare the tomatoes in advance by spreading a sheet pan with ³/₄ cup (190 ml) of the olive oil, garlic, and thyme. Place the blanched, peeled tomatoes on the pan and season with salt and pepper. Bake in a 150°F (65°C) oven for 8 hours.

In a large saucepan, heat ¹/₄ cup (65 ml) of the olive oil over medium-high heat and saute the spinach with the diced shallots until the spinach wilts, about 2 minutes. Season to taste and allow to cool. Press the spinach into a strainer to remove all liquid. Make each of the 4 tians by alternating layers of spinach and tomato in a 3-in- (8-cm-) diameter metal ring, ending with spinach on top. You will not need all of the tomatoes and should have about 2 cups (500 ml) left for the sauce.

Remove the lobster meat from the shell, reserving the head and tail shell for garnish. Remove the gills from the head and discard. Reserve the coral.

Sauté the onions, carrots, and celery in the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil, then add the lobster coral and 4 cups (1 liter) water. Reduce by a third over high heat. Add 2 cups (500 ml) of the oven-dried tomatoes and reduce by half. Strain. Add the Pernod and the crème fraiche. Blend together.

To serve, place tians in the center of large dinner plates, carefully removing the metal rings. Add the lobster head facing the front of the plate and the tail in back. Place claw meat on both sides of the tian. Spoon the sauce onto both sides. Slice each tail into 8 medallions, 4 for each side of the plate. Spoon a small amount of caviar on top of each medallion. Serve immediately. Serves 4.

EGGPLANT CRABCAKES

Andrea Apuzzo, Andrea's

Crabcakes were popular in New Orleans long before they were the rage in restaurants around the United States—a testament to the quality of the crabmeat in these pans. In this local Italian variation, crabmeat is joined by eggplant for a savory celebration.

2 whole medium-sized eggplants (aubergines)

Salt

2 tablespoons plus one 1 teaspoon olive oil

1  medium-sized onion, chopped

2 tablespoons chopped garlic

6 celery ribs, chopped

1 medium-sized leek, chopped

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

1 tablespoon fresh marjoram leaves

¹/₄ cup (65 ml) dry white wine

2 lb (1 kg) fresh crabmeat

1 teaspoon finely chopped pepperoncini

1¹/₄ CUP (75 g) fresh bread crumbs

¹/₂ cup (75 g) freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Lemon wedges

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C, gas mark 6). Cut the eggplants in half lengthwise, salt generously, and layer in a baking pan. Add 1 cup (250 ml) water. Bake until tender, 30 to 40 minutes. Set aside.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and garlic and saute until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Add the celery, leek, herbs, and white wine. Mix well and set aside.

With a spoon, remove the meat from the eggplant and mix briefly with the sautéed vegetable mixture in a food processor. Do not overprocess.

In another skillet, add 1 teaspoon of the olive oil, along with the crabmeat and a splash of white wine. Bring to a boil. Add the mixture from the processor, salt, pepper, and pepperoncini. Mix gently. Allow to cool.

Add 1 cup of the bread crumbs and the Parmesan cheese and mix together. Form into 8 patties and sprinkle each one with the additional ¹/₄ cup (15 g) bread crumbs on the outside. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a skillet and saute the patties for 2 to 3 minutes per side, until golden brown. Serve garnished with the lemon wedges. Serves 8.

Helpful hint: To save a little time, chop all the vegetables at once in a food processor before sauté-ing them.

CRAWFISH ÉTOUFFÉE

Greg Picolo, The Bistro

Here's a dish from Cajun Country that has taken New Orleans by storm. It should be robust and push your limits on pepper. Étouffee, by the way, means "smothered"—describing the cooking technique that makes these crawfish so good.

¹/₂ cup (1 stick, or 110 g) unsalted butter

¹/₂ cup (60 g) all-purpose (plain) flour

¹/₄ cup (65 ml) peanut oil

4 celery ribs, finely chopped

4 large onions, finely chopped

1 large green bell pepper (capsicum), finely chopped

4 tablespoons chopped fresh garlic

2 bay leaves, preferably fresh

6 fresh thyme sprigs or ¹/₂ teaspoon dried

3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

¹/₄ teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)

4 cups (I liter) Chicken Stock (page 41)

3 lb (1¹/₂ kg) crawfish (crayfish) tails, drained with liquid reserved

2 cups (500 ml) heavy (whipping) cream

Salt and black pepper

White rice, cooked

6 scallions (spring onions), chopped

Make a roux by combining the butter, flour, and oil in a heavy pan and cooking over low heat until a dark caramel color, about 15 to 18 minutes. Add all the vegetables except the scallions and cook until soft, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the bay leaves, thyme, Worcestershire sauce, and red pepper. Slowly pour in the stock, whisking to incorporate it into the roux.

Add the reserved crawfish liquid and cook over low heat for 1 hour, until no flour taste remains. Add the crawfish tails and the cream. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook for 5 more minutes and serve over steamed white rice. Garnish with chopped scallions. Serves 6 to 8.

Crawfish Étouffee at Laura Plantation.

GRILLED SCALLOPS WITH WILD MUSHROOM GALETTE

Dominique Macquet, Dominique's

This terrific new dish is well worth the time it takes to make it.

Sun-Dried Tomato Paste

1 cup (250 ml) sun-dried tomatoes (not packed in oil)

¹/₂ cup (125 ml) dry white wine

2 basil leaves

¹/₂ cup (125 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

Red Pepper Vinaigrette

2 red bell peppers (capsicums)

¹/₂ tablespoon crushed garlic

3 basil leaves

1 cup (250 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and black pepper

Wild Mushroom Galette

2 oz (60 g) shiitake mushrooms, sliced, sautéed, and drained

1 oz (30 g) oyster mushrooms, sliced, sautéed, and drained

1 oz (30 g) morel mushrooms, sliced, sautéed, and drained

¹/₃ cup (60 g) wild rice, cooked

8 sheets filo dough

14 tablespoons (1³/₄ sticks) butter, melted

24 scallops, seasoned with salt and pepper and brushed with olive oil

24 fresh asparagus spears, trimmed

Diced red pepper (capsicum)

Diced scallions (spring onions)

Prepare the sun-dried tomato paste by rehydrating the tomatoes in the white wine, then draining and blending them in a food processor with the basil and the olive oil.

Prepare the red pepper vinaigrette by grilling or roasting the peppers until the skin is charred. Then put them in a paper bag for 5 minutes to allow the steam to loosen the skin. Peel and seed the peppers. Add the remaining ingredients and blend until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

To make the wild mushroom galette, mix together the sautéed wild mushrooms, the cooked wild rice, and the sun-dried tomato paste. Layer 4 sheets of filo with melted butter, then cut in half. Cut one half into 5 strips and place these into a 2-in (5-cm) metal ring, criss-crossing them. Add the mushroom mixture and close with the tops of the filo strips. Repeat the procedure with the remaining filo and filling to make 4 galettes. Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C, gas mark 2) and bake the galettes for 10 minutes.

Grill the scallops until medium rare, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Blanch the asparagus spears and set 6 on each dinner plate like spokes of a wheel. Set a galette in the middle of each plate, then the grilled scallops between the spokes. Drizzle vinaigrette on each scallop. Garnish with diced red pepper and scallions. Serves 4.

BLACKENED REDFISH OR TUNA

Seldom in New Orleans is a dish so identified with a single chef as blackened redfish is with Paul Prudhomme. Yet this crusty "outdoor-tasting" entree is created by making so much smoke that it really should be cooked outdoors. The fish fillet can dry out horrendously if not cooked fast enough and hot enough, so be faithful to the technique if you're going to try blackening at all. With redfish as scarce as it is, this dish is mostly made with tuna (as in this photo) or swordfish these days.

1 teaspoon salt

¹/₂ teaspoon ground red pepper

¹/₂ teaspoon ground white pepper

¹/₄ teaspoon ground black pepper

¹/₄ teaspoon dried thyme teaspoon dried basil

¹/₄ teaspoon dried oregano

2 teaspoons paprika

8 8-oz (250-g) skinless, boneless redfish fillets,or swordfish or tuna fillets

¹/₂ cup (1 stick, or 110 g) butter, melted

Combine all the seasonings in a small bowl. Dip the fillets in the melted butter and liberally sprinkle the seasoning mixture on both sides. Heat a cast-iron skillet as hot as you can get it, till the color starts to lighten to gray on the bottom. Add 2 fillets.

Pour about 1 tablespoon of the butter on top of the fish. Be careful; it may flame. Cook the fish for only about 1¹/₂ minutes on each side. Serve immediately. Serves 8.

George Rodrigue's famed Blue Dog looks on as Blackened Tuna is served at K-Paul's Louisiana Kitchen.

REDFISH COURTBOUILLON

The French came up with the basic idea for this "short soup," pronounced "coo-be-yon" by the locals. The Creoles made the broth more substantial, almost a sauce served over the delicious whole redfish. If you can't locate redfish, substitute sea bass.

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 medium-sized onion, finely chopped

3 large tomatoes, chopped

1 tablespoon tomato paste

¹/₂ cup (125 ml) red wine

¹/₂ teaspoon salt

3/₄ teaspoon ground black pepper

1 4-lb (2-kg) redfish, cleaned with head removed

In a large saucepan over medium heat, heat the oil. Add the onions and saute until limp, about 3 minutes. Then add the tomatoes, tomato paste, 1 cup (250 ml) water, and wine. Season with salt and pepper. Simmer, uncovered, until the sauce thickens, about 20 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C, gas mark 4). Pour the sauce over the redfish in a large roasting pan and cook in the oven until cooked through, about 1 hour. Baste with the sauce occasionally. Serves 4.

SWEET POTATO REDFISH WITH KUMQUATS

Dominique Macquet, Dominique's

Now that you've enjoyed your redfish blackened and courtbouilloned, have a go at a newer treatment from one of the city's most innovative chefs. The combination of sweet potatoes and kumquats is a natural, even if nobody has ever tried it before.

8 medium-sized sweet potatoes, peeled

Oil for deep-frying

Kumquat Beurre Blanc

5 tablespoons olive oil

3 shallots, diced

1 lb (450 g) kumquats, chopped with skin on

1 cup (250 ml) dry vermouth

¹/₂ cup (1 stick, or 110 g) unsalted butter

8 6- to 8-oz (185- to 250-g) redfish or red snapper fillets

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Sliced kumquats (optional)

Slice the sweet potatoes lengthwise into ¹/₄-in (6-mm) pieces. Soak in cold water to cover for about 20 minutes to remove the natural sugar.

To make the kumquat beurre blanc, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the shallots and kumquats and saute until soft, about 5 minutes. Deglaze the pan with the vermouth, scraping up the brown particles from the bottom. Boil to reduce the liquid by half, then stir in the butter until the sauce is thickened and shimmering.

Preheat the frying oil to 375°F (190°C, gas mark 5). Dry the potato slices thoroughly, then deep-fry until they are crispy. Blend the fried potatoes in a food processor with the chopping blade until they look like cornflakes.

Brush the redfish with the remaining olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle the potato flakes on the fish, then sear in a frying pan, about 1 minute on each side. To finish the cooking, cook the fish in a preheated 350°F (180°C, gas mark 4) oven for 5 minutes.

Arrange the redfish fillets on dinner plates and spoon the sauce around the sides. Garnish with additional kumquat slices, if desired. Serves 8.

TROUT AMANDINE & TROUT MEUNIÉRE

Arnaud's

TROUT AMANDINE

A close relative of Trout Meunière, this crisp and delicate fish dish has been a New Orleans favorite for decades. For a trendier variation, use pecans instead of almonds. Either way, you'll love the sweet, nutty taste.

6 8- to 10-oz (250- to 300-g) speckled or brook trout fillets, or other firm, white-fleshed fish

1 cup (250 ml) cold milk

1 cup (110 g) all-purpose (plain) flour seasoned with salt and pepper

¹/₂ cup (1 stick, or 110 g) butter

Sauce

6 tablespoons (3/₄ stick, or 90 g) butter

1¹/₂ cups (200 g) flaked almonds

¹/₄ cup (65 ml) fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Salt and black pepper

Soak the fillets in the milk for about 10 minutes, then drain them and dredge them in the seasoned flour. Shake off any excess. In a heavy frying pan, melt the butter and fry the fish a few at a time until golden, about 5 minutes on each side. Place on a warmed platter and keep warm.

Prepare the sauce in the same pan by melting the butter and stirring in the almonds until they are lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Add the lemon juice, parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer for 2 to 3 minutes to reduce. Pour the sauce over fish. Serves 6.

TROUT MEUNIÉRE

This beloved standard of Creole cooking takes its name from the process of milling fine flour. What Creole chefs do with that flour, especially in the case of delicate trout fillets, is something else again.

2¹/₂ cups (625 ml) peanut oil

6 8- to 10-oz (250- to 300-g) fillets fresh speckled trout, or other firm, white-fleshed fish

1 cup (110 g) all-purpose (plain) flour

¹/₂ cup (1 stick, or 110 g) butter

¹/₂ CUP (125 ml) dry white wine

Salt and black pepper

1 lemon, sliced

¹/₂ garlic clove, finely chopped

6 parsley sprigs, finely chopped

Preheat the peanut oil to 350°F (180°C) in a heavy skillet. Dredge the trout in flour and fry 2 pieces at a time until golden, 5 to 7 minutes for each. Place on a platter and keep warm.

Melt the butter. Stir in the wine, season to taste with salt and pepper, and pour the sauce over the trout. Garnish with lemon slices, garlic, and parsley. Serves 6.

Trout Amandine (front) and Trout Meunière, served on Arnaud's mezzanine overlooking the main dining room.

HONEY-ROASTED DUCK & CANDIED YAMS

Greg Picolo, The Bistro

HONEY-ROASTED DUCK

In the winter—and yes, even during football season—the men of New Orleans take to the marshes. The reason: it's duck season.

3 2- to 3-Ib (1- to 1¹/₂-kg) ducks

Salt and pepper

4 tablespoons (¹/₂ stick) unsalted butter

1 teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)

³/₄ cup (190 ml) balsamic vinegar

2 cups (500 ml) honey

1 teaspoon freshly chopped garlic

4 fresh thyme sprigs

2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

¹/₂ cup (125 ml) Cointreau or Triple Sec

Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Season the ducks inside and outside with salt and pepper, then roast until rare, 40 to 45 minutes. Remove ducks from the oven, and cut lengthwise into halves. Discard the fat from the roasting pan and replace the ducks skin-side up in the pan.

In a saucepan, melt the butter and add the red pepper, vinegar, honey, garlic, thyme, Worcestershire sauce, and Cointreau. Cook over low heat for 5 to 7 minutes, then pour over the ducks. Roast 15 minutes more at 350°F (180°C, gas mark 4), until medium rare. Remove the ducks, let the meat rest, and keep it warm.

Skim the cooking liquid of any fat and reduce it slightly in a saucepan over high heat. Pour over the ducks and serve immediately with Candied Yams and Dirty Rice (page 135). Serves 6.

CANDIED YAMS

6 Louisiana yams (sweet potatoes), peeled and quartered

¹/₂ cup (110 g) firmly packed dark brown sugar

¹/₄ cup (60 g) white sugar

Juice of 1 lemon

Juice of 1 large orange

¹/₄ cup (¹/₂ stick, or 60 g) unsalted butter, melted

¹/₄ cup (65 ml) brandy

2 tablespoons pure vanilla extract

Salt and black pepper

1 tablespoon cinnamon

¹/₂ teaspoon nutmeg

Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Place all ingredients in a large Dutch oven. Add 8 cups (2 liters) water. Cover the pot and steam the yams in the oven until fork tender, 30 to 40 minutes. Remove the lid and reduce on the stove over high heat for 7 to 10 minutes, until the sauce is syrupy. Serves 6.

Honey-roasted Duck served with Candied Yams and wild rice, photographed at Tezcuco Plantation.

CRISPY SMOKED QUAIL SALAD

Susan Spicer, Bayona

This is one of Susan Spicer's best ideas for preparing game.

4 quail, deboned

Marinade

1 tablespoon honey

1 tablespoon sweet soy (Indonesian ketjap manis) or hoisin sauce

¹/₂ cup (125 ml) peanut oil

1 tablespoon bourbon whiskey

Dressing

1 lb (450 g) quail or chicken bones

2 cups (500 ml) Chicken Stock (page 41)

2 tablespoons molasses

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

2 tablespoons walnut (or cider) vinegar

¹/₄ cup (50 g) chopped shallots

1 cup (250 ml) olive oil

Salt and black pepper to taste

1-2 tablespoons bourbon whiskey

Spiced Pecans

1 tablespoon butter

¹/₂ cup (50 g) shelled pecans

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

¹/₂ teaspoon salt

¹/₈ teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)

1 tablespoon sugar

Rice Flour Batter

1 cup (160 g) rice flour

¹/₄ teaspoon salt

¹/₈ teaspoon black pepper

Salad

¹/₂ lb (225 g) fresh spinach, cleaned and trimmed

1 ripe pear, thinly sliced

¹/₄ cup (65 ml) thinly sliced pickled red onion

¹/₂ cup (110 g) celery hearts and leaves, thinly sliced

Whisk together all marinade ingredients in a small bowl and add the quail. Let rest for at least 1 hour. Drain the quail and "cold-smoke" in a smoker for 30 minutes. The quail should still be mostly raw.

Prepare the dressing by browning the bones in a 350'F (180°C, gas mark 4) oven for 10 minutes, then placing them in a small pot and covering with the chicken stock. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer the stock until it reduces to ¹/₂ cup (125 ml) of syrupy liquid. Pour into a bowl and whisk in the molasses, vinegars, shallots, and oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then stir in the bourbon.

Make the spiced pecans by melting the butter in a saucepan and tossing with the nuts and all other ingredients. Spread on a small baking sheet and roast in a preheated 350°F (180°C, gas mark 4) oven for about 10 minutes, until lightly toasted.

Preheat frying oil in a deep-fryer to 350°F (180°C). Whisk together the rice flour batter ingredients with ³/₄ cup (190 ml) water. Dip the quail in this batter and fry for 3 to 4 minutes, until golden brown. To make the salad, toss the fresh spinach with the dressing. To serve, top the salad with the quail, pear, pickled red onion, celery, and pecans. Serves 4.

CHICKEN BONNE FEMME & SICILIAN CHICKEN

CHICKEN BONNE FEMME

Though this name is sometimes applied to a version of Sicilian-style garlic chicken, here's a Creole version with much to recommend it. It's extremely easy to prepare.

4 chicken breasts, skinned and deboned

Salt and black pepper

¹/₂ cup (125 ml) olive oil

4 potatoes, peeled and sliced into thin rounds

¹/₂ lb (225 g) ham, diced

4 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley (optional)

Season the chicken breasts with salt and pepper. In a skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat and saute the chicken until it is light brown, about 4 minutes per side. Then remove it from the pan.

Add the potatoes, ham, and garlic to the skillet and saute until soft, 10 to 12 minutes. Then return the chicken to the pan. Blend with the other ingredients and cook until done, about 10 minutes. Stir in the parsley, if using, for color and flavor. Use a slotted spoon to serve so the excess olive oil drains off. Serves 4.

SICILIAN CHICKEN

Here is a dish contributed by New Orleans' large and lively Sicilian population that has surely entered the mainstream. It is a festival of robust, southern European flavors. At Mosca's (a tumbledown food mecca on the west bank of the Mississippi) it's known as Chicken a la Grande, while other eateries surrender their own pride by dubbing it Chicken Mosca.

3/₄ cup (190 ml) olive oil

2 3-lb (1¹/₂-kg) chickens, cut up

¹/₂ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

10 garlic cloves, mashed

1 teaspoon dried rosemary

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 cup (250 ml) dry white wine

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the chicken pieces and brown, about 5 minutes per side. Season them with salt and pepper, then add the garlic, rosemary, and oregano. Pour the wine over the chicken and simmer until the chicken is done and the liquid is reduced by half, about 1 hour. Serves 6.

Chicken Bonne Femme (left) and Sicilian Chicken (right).

MUFFULETTA

Here is the great Sicilian sandwich created at the French Quarter's Central Grocery and taking its name from the round, crusty loaf upon which it is constructed. Be sure to buy a top-quality olive salad or make one of your own.

1 large round Italian bread loaf

Olive oil

3 slices Genoa salami

3 slices center-cut ham

3 slices Swiss cheese

3 slices Provolone cheese

6 tablespoons olive salad

Slice the loaf in half horizontally, creating a top and bottom. Brush olive oil on the inside of the bread. Arrange the cold cuts on the bottom half in the order listed, then top them with the olive salad.

Cut the sandwich into 4 wedges—or 2 if you are really hungry. Serves 2 to 4.

DAUBE GLACÉ

This famous Creole dish is to meats what calas are to desserts—seldom seen yet fondly remembered. It is a summer dish with similarities to hog's head cheese: light and full of flavor.

¹/₄ cup (65 ml) vegetable oil

3 lb (1¹/₂kg) beef round

¹/₂ lb (225 g) salt pork

1 large onion, chopped

3 carrots, sliced

2 celery ribs, chopped

3 garlic cloves, minced

2 parsley sprigs, chopped

2 bay leaves

5 whole cloves

1 cup (250 ml) dry sherry

Salt and black pepper

1 packet (7 g) gelatin (gelatine)

In a large skillet, heat the oil and sear the beef and pork. Then add 6 cups (1¹/₂ liters) water and all other ingredients, except the gelatin. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the meat is tender, 2 to 3 hours.

Remove any bones from the meat and cut the meat into bite-sized pieces. Return it to the pot with the vegetables and liquid and simmer for 30 minutes more. Remove the bay leaves and cloves.

In a bowl, dissolve the gelatin in a spoonful of the pot liquid, then stir the mixture into the pot. Turn off the heat and let the daube cool before ladling into a 2-quart (liter) loaf pan.

Cover the pan with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours before serving. Unmold onto a platter and cut into slices. Serve cold. Serves 8.

A picnic under the trees at historic Oak Alley Plantation.

BRONZED VEAL CHOPS IN A CHIPOTLE CREAM

Paul Prudhomme, K-Paul's Louisiana Kitchen

Chipotle Cream

¹/₄ lb (125 g) plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, in all

2 cups (240 g) chopped onions

2¹/₂ teaspoons ground dried chipode chile peppers

3¹/₄ teaspoons Chef Paul Prudhomme's Meat Magic^®, in all

1 cup (250 ml) chicken or beef stock (pages 40, 41)

4 oz (110 g) wild mushrooms, sliced thinly

2 cups (500 ml) heavy (whipping) cream

¹/₄ teaspoon salt

¹/₂ teaspoon light brown sugar

Veal Chops

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

6 10-oz (285-g) veal chops, each about 1-in (2¹/₂ -cm) thick

2 tablespoons Chef Paul Prudhomme's Meat Magic^®

To prepare the chipotle cream, place ¹/₄ lb (125 g) of the butter in a 10-in (25-cm) nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter begins to sizzle, add the onions. Cook, stirring frequently, until the onions have turned a light brown, about 15 minutes. Add the chipotle and 1 tablespoon of the Meat Magic^®. Cook, stirring constantly, until the seasonings have darkened slightly, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the chicken or beef stock; scrape the bottom of the skillet to loosen any brown crust on the skillet bottom. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Remove from the heat, then puree the mixture in a food processor or blender. Set aside.

Add 1 tablespoon of the remaining butter to the skillet and place over high heat. When the butter sizzles, add the mushrooms and remaining Meat Magic® and saute until the mushrooms begin to darken, about 3 minutes. Return the puree to the skillet, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium. Add the cream, salt, and sugar. Bring to a boil, simmer for 5 minutes. Whisk in the remaining tablespoon of butter. Set the sauce aside (yields about 4 cups, or 1 liter) and prepare the chops.

To prepare the veal chops, season each veal chop evenly with ¹/₂ teaspoon of the Meat Magi^® per side, patting it in gently with your hands.

Heat the oil in a large heavy skillet until the oil is smoking hot, 5 to 7 minutes. Put 2 or 3 of the chops in the hot skillet. (When bronzing, it is important not to crowd the pan. Always leave plenty of space between the chops). Cook, turning once, until the chops are brown on the outside but still very rare in the center, about 1 to 2 minutes. Place the chops in a 500°F (250°C, gas mark 10) oven for 3 to 4 minutes to finish. Repeat the process for the remaining chops.

Serve 1 chop per person, topped with ¹/₂ cup (125 ml) of the sauce. Makes 6 servings.

BEEF FILETS WITH MARCHAND DE VIN SAUCE & PANEED VEAL

BEEF FILETS WITH MARCHAND DE VIN SAUCE

Named after the French wine merchants who created the sauce using their own wines, this dish is immensely popular in the grand Creole palaces. New Orleanians, as usual, tend to like more garlic than is found in the original recipe from France.

Marchand de Vin Sauce (page 41)

¹/₄ cup (65 ml) vegetable oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 beef filets

Prepare the marchand de vin sauce as directed on page 41. Keep the sauce warm.

To prepare the filets, combine the oil with salt and pepper to taste, then rub the filets with it. Cook them in a preheated skillet to the desired degree of doneness, from about 5 minutes on each side for rare to 10 minutes for well-done. Serves 6.

PANEED VEAL

Only a generation ago, this dish (pronounced pan-aid) was known simply as "paneed meat" and cooked all over New Orleans because veal was less expensive than beef. Those were the days!

6 ¹/₄-in- (6-mm-) thick veal cutlets

Salt and black pepper

1 egg, beaten with 1 tablespoon of water

1 cup (125 g) dry bread crumbs

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 tablespoon butter

Lemon wedges

Using a mallet, pound the veal cutlets until they are thin and tender and season them with salt and pepper. Dip in the egg mixture, then in the bread crumbs, then back in the egg mixture.

Heat the oil and butter in a heavy skillet and saute the meat on both sides until golden brown. Drain on absorbent paper. Serve with lemon wedges. Serves 6.

Panted Veal (left) and Beef Filets with Marchand de Vin Sauce (right).

BANANAS FOSTER

Brennan's

This has to be the single most famous dessert in New Orleans, though by no means the only magnificent one. It was devised at Brennan's for a good customer named Foster, who happened to own a local awning company. Now Mr. Foster is much more famous for flaming bananas than for shading windows from the summer sunshine.

4 teaspoons ground cinnamon

3 teaspoons sugar

6 tablespoons (³/₄ stick) butter

3 cups (680 g) firmly packed light brown sugar

6 ripe bananas, peeled and quartered

¹/₃ cup (80 ml) dark rum

¹/₃ Cup (80 ml) banana liqueur

6 scoops vanilla ice cream

Mix together the cinnamon and white sugar and set aside. In a flambe pan, mash together the butter and brown sugar, then set the pan over a flame until the mixture melts. Add the bananas flat-side down and heat for about 1 minute.

Remove the pan from the flame to add the rum, then return it to the heat and ignite the alcohol. Sprinkle the cinnamon-sugar mixture into the flame. When the fire burns down, remove the pan from the heat and add the banana liqueur, then return to the heat and ignite again. Mix well.

Place one scoop of ice cream in each of 6 champagne glasses, cover with the hot banana mixture and serve immediately. Serves 6.

BREAD PUDDING WITH WHISKEY SAUCE

Arnaud's

The existence of this dish has everything to do with the amount of French bread consumed around New Orleans every day—and the amount in danger of being wasted when the fresh loaves come in. Fear not—early Creole chefs reworked an old European technique of turning drying bread into a dazzling dessert. Here's how.

1 loaf French bread

1 quart (liter) milk

3 eggs, beaten

2 cups (450 g) sugar

2 tablespoons vanilla extract

1 cup (140 g) raisins

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

Whiskey Sauce

¹/₂ cup (1 stick, or 110 g) unsalted butter, softened

1 cup (225 g) sugar

1 egg, beaten

1 tablespoon whiskey

Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C, gas mark 2). Break up the French bread into small cubes and set in the milk to soak until the bread absorbs all of the milk. Then add the eggs, sugar, vanilla, and raisins. Stir well. Pour the melted butter into a 2-quart (liter) baking pan, add the bread mixture, and bake until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean, about 1 hour. Let cool.

Prepare the whiskey sauce by creaming together the butter and sugar, heating in a double boiler until hot and well dissolved. Rapidly whip in the egg, avoiding curdling. Let the sauce cool and add the whiskey.

Cut the bread pudding in cubes and place on 6 individual serving dishes. Gently heat the sauce and spoon over the top of each serving. Serves 6.

'

Bread Pudding with Whiskey Sauce (left) and a Crème Brulée (right, recipe on page 136) This straw boater is a timeless example of New Orleans elegance.

CUP CUSTARD & CHERRIES JUBILEE

CUP CUSTARD

This popular dessert is a close relative of the Spanish flan—and may have even arrived in town during Spain's brief but influential domination.

3 eggs

¹/₂ cup (110 g) sugar

2 cups (500 ml) milk

1¹/₂ teaspoons vanilla extract

¹/₂ teaspoon vegetable oil

¹/₂ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Caramel Sauce

1 cup (225 g) white sugar

1 cup (250 ml) boiling water

In a bowl, beat the eggs and sugar until creamy. Heat the milk in a pan to the scalding point, then pour the milk slowly into the egg mixture, beating constantly. Stir in the vanilla.

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C, gas mark 4). Spread the vegetable oil over the bottom and sides of 4 individual baking cups. Pour the custard through a strainer into the cups and sprinkle the top with the nutmeg. Place the cups in a large roasting pan and add enough hot water to the pan to reach halfway up the sides of the cups.

Bake until a knife inserted into the center of a custard comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool. Cover and refrigerate.

To make the caramel sauce, pour the sugar into a small heavy-bottomed pan. Place over low heat and cook, without stirring, until the sugar melts and turns a light brown. Watch closely to avoid burning the sugar, and shake the pan from time to time. When the sugar is completely melted, stir in the boiling water, working quickly and wearing two oven mitts to protect your hands from splatters. Continue cooking and stirring for 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool.

To serve, pour the cooled sauce over the chilled custard. Serves 4.

CHERRIES JUBILEE

Like Bananas Foster, here is a dessert born from the heart of celebration, New Orleans-style.

1¹/₂ cups (375 ml) brandy

¹/₂ cup (110 g) sugar

2 pints (1 liter) fresh or canned pitted cherries

6 scoops vanilla ice cream

In a saucepan, heat the brandy with the sugar until the sugar is dissolved, then add the cherries. Ignite the liquid carefully with a long-stemmed match and stir the cherries until the fire burns out.

Scoop ice cream into 6 dessert bowls, then cover the ice cream with the cherries and their sauce. Serve immediately. Serves 6.

Cup Custard (left) and Cherries Jubilee (right) The blood-red jubilee is a particularly appropriate dessert to enjoy in the beautiful Garden District home of Anne Rice, author of bestselling novels on vampires whet live in New Orleans.

BUTTERMILK PIE

The Cabin

The buttermilk gives this custard pie extra richness and a slight tang.

2 cups (450 g) sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 tablespoons cornstarch

¹/₂ cup (110 g, or 1 stick) butter, melted

3 large eggs, at room temperature

1 cup (250 ml) buttermilk, at room temperature

Unbaked 9-in (23-cm) pie shell

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°, gas mark 4). In the bowl of an electric mixer, combine the sugar, spices, vanilla, cornstarch, butter, and eggs. Beat on slow speed until the batter is blended and uniform. Add the buttermilk and mix well. Pour into an unbaked 9-in (23-cm) pie shell. Bake until set and brown on top, about 40 minutes. Serves 8.

Buttermilk pie in the rustic surroundings of The Cabin.

PECAN PIE

Like every other corner of the Deep South, New Orleans loves its pecan pie. This recipe includes making the pie crust, though frozen and refrigerated crusts can be quite satisfactory.

Crust

¹/₃ CUP (5 tablespoons) solid shortening (butter)

1 cup (110 g) all-purpose (plain) flour

¹/₂ teaspoon salt

2¹/₂ tablespoons water

Filling

¹/₂ cup (110 g) firmly packed brown sugar

1 tablespoon cornstarch

3 eggs, beaten

1 cup (250 ml) dark corn (golden) syrup

1 cup (250 ml) light corn (golden) syrup

2 tablespoons vanilla extract

1¹/₂ cups (150 g) pecan pieces Pecan halves

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C, gas mark 4). To make the crust, mix the shortening and the flour, then add the water. Mix well, form into a ball and return to the bowl. Cover the bowl and refrigerate the mixture for 30 minutes. Roll out the dough and place in an 8-in (20-cm) pie plate. Trim and crimp the edges.

To make the filling, blend the sugar, cornstarch, and eggs in the bowl of an electric mixer. Then add both syrups and the vanilla, mixing thoroughly. Place the pecan pieces atop the pie crust, add the filling and bake for 40 minutes or until a knife inserted in the filling comes out clean. Let the pie cool. Garnish as desired with pecan halves. Serves 8.

PRALINES AND CALAS

PRALINES

Pralines are one of those sweets that came to prominence as French Quarter street food. Now they are sold in tourist shops all over the Quarter—a less romantic system than the strolling vendors of yore—and shipped all over the world.

1¹/₂ cups (340 g) firmly packed dark brown sugar

1¹/₂ cups (340 g) white sugar

2 tablespoons butter

¹/₈ teaspoon salt

1¹/₂ cups (375 ml) evaporated milk

2 cups (200 g) shelled pecan halves

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon vegetable oil

In a large saucepan, combine all the ingredients in a heavy-bottomed saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring with a wooden spoon. Cook at a low boil for about 4 minutes (a candy thermometer should register 260°F, or 127°C), or a drop of the mixture should form a "hard ball" when dropped into cold water). Remove the saucepan from the heat. Beat the mixture until it cools and becomes creamy, about 2 minutes.

Form the pralines by dropping a tablespoon of the pecan mixture onto large pieces of aluminum foil or waxed paper. Let the candies cool thoroughly before storing them in an airtight container. Makes about 40 candies.

CALAS

These sweet rice cakes, pronounced "cal-lah," are seldom served anymore, but are fondly remembered. People remember—or remember being told of—the bandanaed vendors who swirled through the French Market shouting "beau calas!"

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

2 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 teaspoons baking powder

¹/₂ teaspoon salt

2 cups (225 g) sifted all-purpose (plain) flour

1 cup (200 g) cooked white rice

Vegetable oil for deep-frying

Powdered sugar or cane (golden) syrup

In a mixing bowl, beat together the sugar, eggs, and vanilla until foamy and bright yellow. Then add 1¹/₂ cups (375 ml) water and beat well. In a separate bowl, combine the baking powder and salt with the flour. Blending with a wire whisk, add this to the egg mixture. Add the rice, coating every kernel. Divide the dough into 6 portions and moisten your hands with a small amount of vegetable oil. Gently form 6 balls of dough and set aside on waxed paper.

Heat about 1 in (2¹/₂ cm) of oil in a heavy skillet to 365°F (180°C). Slowly lower the rice balls into the hot oil with a slotted spoon, frying until a golden crust develops. Turn to keep from burning. Serve immediately with powdered sugar or cane syrup. Serves 6.

A snack of Calas (in dish) and Pralines (front) at Nottoway Plantation.

COCKTAILS

Sazerac Bar, Fairmont Hotel

SIMPLE SYRUP

1 cup (250 ml) water

2 cups (450 g) sugar

In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine the water and sugar and stir to dissolve. Bring to a boil and boil for 5 minutes. Cool, then store in a jar in the refrigerator and use as needed. Yields about 1 cup (250 ml).

GIN FIZZ

1¹/₂ fl oz (45 ml) gin

2 drops orange flower water 1 egg white

1 tablespoon Simple Syrup (see above)

¹/₂ teaspoon lemon juice

2 fl oz (60 ml) half-and-half (half cream)

2 fl oz (60 ml) milk

Combine all ingredients in a shaker with ice. Shake vigorously for 30 seconds. Pour over ice cubes in a chilled champagne glass.

BRANDY MILK PUNCH

1¹/₂ fl oz (40 ml) brandy

1 tablespoon Simple Syrup (see above)

6 drops vanilla extract

2 fl oz (60 ml) half-and-half (half cream)

2 fl oz (60 ml) milk

Ground nutmeg

Combine all the ingredients except the nutmeg in a shaker with ice. Shake well, then strain into a chilled highball glass with a little ice. Then dust with nutmeg.

ABSINTHE SUISSESSE

1¹/₂ fl oz (45 ml) Herbsaint liqueur

1 egg white

3 drops orange flower water

3 drops white crème de menthe

1 tablespoon Simple Syrup (see above)

2 fl oz (60 ml) half-and-half (half cream)

2 fl oz (60 ml) milk

Combine all the ingredients in a shaker with ice. Shake vigorously until frothy, then strain into a chilled stem glass with a little crushed ice.

SAZERAC

2  fl oz (60 ml) rye whiskey

1  teaspoon Simple Syrup (see above)

3 dashes Peychaud's bitters

3 dashes Angostura bitters

Splash of water

2 dashes Herbsaint liqueur

Lemon twist

Combine all the ingredients, except the Herbsaint and lemon twist, with ice. Pour the Herbsaint into a chilled rock (or old-fashioned) glass and coat the interior of the glass. Pour off any excess. Strain the rye mixture into the glass and add the lemon twist.

Lined up on the Sazerzac Bar are, clockwise from far left, Mint Julep, Hurricane, Absinthe Suissesse, Brandy Milk-Punch, Crème de Menthe, Sazerac, and Crème de Noya.

MINT JULEP

6 mint leaves

2 teaspoons powdered sugar

2 fl oz (60 ml) bourbon

Crushed ice Mint sprig

In the bottom of a tall highball glass, combine the mint leaves with the sugar. Using a spoon, crush the leaves in the sugar, then add the bourbon. Fill the glass with crushed ice and garnish with the mint sprig. Serve with a cocktail straw.

HURRICANE

2 fl oz (60 ml) Red Passion fruit cocktail mix, available commercially

2 fl oz (60 ml) fresh lemon juice

4 fl oz (120 ml) dark rum

1 orange slice

1 maraschino cherry

Fill a tall, curved Hurricane glass with crushed ice. Add the cocktail mix, lemon juice, and rum. Decorate with an orange slice and cherry.

CAFE BRÛLOT

2 tablespoons whole cloves

14 cinnamon sticks, broken

2 tablespoons sugar

Peel of 1 lemon

1 orange

¹/₂ cup (125 ml) plus 1 tablespoon

Grand Marnier

¹/₃ cup (80 ml) plus 1 tablespoon French brandy

4 cups (1 liter) hot, freshly brewed black coffee

In a brûlot bowl (or stainless-steel or silver bowl), place the cloves, cinnamon sticks, sugar, and lemon peel. Peel the orange carefully in 1 long strip, leaving the peel attached at one end. Stud the orange peel with the cloves, recoil the peel around the orange, and place it in the brûlot bowl.

Add the ¹/₂ cup (125 ml) Grand Marnier and the ¹/₃ cup (80 ml) brandy, then set the bowl over a flame to heat the ingredients. Press a fork into the pulp of the orange, lifting it out of the bowl and setting it aside.

Pour the remaining tablespoon of Grand Marnier and tablespoon of brandy into a stainless-steel or silver ladle and ignite carefully using a long-stemmed match. With your free hand, pick up the orange on the fork and turn it so the clove-studded peel twists down into the liquid in the bowl.

Dim the lights in the room. Pour the flaming alcohol from the ladle down the peel. Twice scoop the ladle into the bowl for more of the now-flaming liquid, pouring it down the peel. When all flames burn out, pour the coffee into the bowl. Discard the orange and ladle the drink into New Orleans brûlot cups or any decorative coffee cups. Serves 6.