CRANBERRY BEANS WITH SMOKY BACON & COLLARDS

SERVES 4

WE CAN ALWAYS COUNT ON dried beans as a staple, but the fresh versions of those beans are a fleeting seasonal delicacy. Their creamy texture is the true luxury of fresh beans. Of course, there’s the shelling, but the glorious color of fresh cranberry beans makes it an easy pleasure. I like to share the task with my daughters: Many little hands make light work.

I use cranberry beans in this recipe, but there are so many other kinds of fresh shell beans to discover, from tiny Southern cowpeas to tender, chubby lima beans. It’s a great dish to make a day or two in advance. Cooked beans benefit from an overnight spent in the refrigerator, soaking up the liquid. To keep the flavors vibrant, I like to add the greens and freshen up the seasonings just before serving.

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 ounces smoky bacon, diced

½ small onion, minced

1 small carrot, diced

1 clove garlic, smashed

2 cups shelled fresh cranberry beans

8 scallions (white parts)

Pinch crushed red pepper flakes

2 large handfuls baby collard greens

Salt and pepper

Red wine vinegar

Olive oil for drizzling

Heat the tablespoon of olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook until it renders its fat, about 3 minutes. The smell of the bacon sizzling is the first sign that something delicious is on its way. Add the onions, carrots, and garlic and cook until softened, about 6 minutes. Add the beans, scallions, and red pepper flakes and stir for a minute or two.

Add 3 cups water and simmer until the beans are tender, 10 to 15 minutes. To serve right away, add the collards and cook until the beans are completely soft (the skins unbroken), another 10 to 15 minutes. There should still be plenty of liquid in the pan; if not, add more water—we want soupy beans! Add salt, pepper, and a splash of vinegar, and drizzle with olive oil.