CHOWCHOW RELISH

MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART

THERE ARE FASCINATING THEORIES as to the origins of this vegetable relish. None is conclusive, but I tend to buy the idea that its origins are Indian or Persian, because of the turmeric and other spices. The preparation has become an American classic, made from end-of-harvest vegetables that almost always include cauliflower. Chowchow, today, is a superb salsa to be scooped up with crackers, pita, or pappadums (lentil chips).

3 carrots, halved and roughly chopped

3 stalks celery, roughly chopped

Florets from ½ head cauliflower, roughly chopped

2 bell peppers, seeded and roughly chopped

3 cups rice wine vinegar

1 slice fresh ginger

1 clove garlic, smashed

6 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons salt

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

½ teaspoon mustard seeds

1 bay leaf

Pinch crushed red pepper flakes

Put the carrots and celery in a food processor and process until finely chopped. Add the cauliflower and peppers and pulse briefly.

In a medium saucepan, combine 1 cup water, the vinegar, ginger, garlic, sugar, salt, turmeric, coriander seeds, mustard seeds, bay leaf, and red pepper flakes and bring to a simmer. Once the sugar has dissolved, add the chopped vegetables and return to a simmer, stirring occasionally so all the pieces pick up the color from the turmeric. Immediately transfer the contents of the pan to a large bowl and let cool to room temperature.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer the vegetables to a covered container and add enough liquid to cover the vegetables. The Chowchow will keep, covered in the refrigerator, for about a month.