CELERY ROOT & APPLE PUREE

SERVES 6

THE SECRET TO THIS PUREE is curry powder, turmeric, and brown butter. It might sound strange, but the combination of the warm curry and the nutty butter is fantastic, and turmeric brightens the color. The puree is perfect under a piece of roasted meat or fish, or folded into cooked farro or other grains; it’s thin enough to be eaten as a soup.

2 celery roots (about 2 pounds total), peeled and cut into large chunks

1 apple, peeled, cored, and chopped; chop a handful unpeeled, for topping

½ teaspoon mild curry powder

Large pinch ground turmeric

1 cup milk

Salt

4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, cut into small chunks

1 tablespoon olive oil

Fresh lemon juice

Combine the celery roots, apples, curry powder, turmeric, milk, and 2 cups water in a medium saucepan, add salt, and simmer until the celery root is completely tender, about 20 minutes. Do not worry if the milk curdles; it will be perfectly smooth once it’s blended. Set aside.

Meanwhile, make the brown butter. Put the butter in a small saucepan and turn the heat to medium. Swirl the butter around the pan so it melts evenly. When it starts to crackle, that’s the sign that the liquid in the butter is evaporating, and the milk solids will start to change color. You’re making nutty and lovely brown butter, not burned black butter, so when it stops singing and brown flecks appear throughout, take the pan off the heat. Pour the butter into a small bowl.

Put the celery root mixture into a food processor or blender and add the brown butter. The idea of putting the brown thing into the nice yellow thing might make you nervous, but trust me, it will be delicious. Process into a satiny, smooth puree. Add the oil, a squeeze of lemon juice, and salt, and blend. Serve topped with the chopped apples.