Cutting Matchsticks

Cutting vegetables by hand into matchsticks takes a little know-how and practice. Peel the vegetable, cut it into the length you want, and square off the sides. (Save trimmings for stock.) Cut slices about ⅜ inch thick with a knife or a mandoline. Stack the slices into small piles—as high as you’re comfortable with—and one by one, with a chef’s knife, cut the piles into matchsticks about ⅜ inch wide. That’s it!

Making Dashi

The foundational stock of Japanese cooking, dashi provides a basic flavor structure called umami that enhances all other ingredients in the recipe. Umami can be explained chemically, but it is produced naturally in these ingredients and to me it just makes everything taste more delicious. The preparation is so easy compared with the power of the result.

To make about a quart of dashi, put about 5 cups of water in a saucepan with 4 pieces of the dried seaweed called kombu. Bring to a simmer and cook gently for about 20 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, set aside the kombu, and add 1 cup loosely packed dried bonito flakes (katsuobushi). Let steep off the heat for 15 minutes. Strain before using. Makes 2 cups.

This elemental, subtly flavored Japanese broth is best used the day it’s made. If you have any left over, stir in some miso paste and some very thinly sliced button mushrooms and scallions and simmer for 15 minutes for a lovely, simple soup.