GINGER

WHEN I STARTED COOKING in Japan, I learned what an exciting and foundational ingredient ginger can be, mostly because the Japanese use it young and just-harvested. Then it’s far superior to the gnarly, dried fibrous roots we see too frequently. Now this fresh and thin-skinned ginger is available here, and it does make a difference. Mincing ginger together with garlic creates a powerful flavor combination. When cooked in a drop of sesame oil, it can transform almost any raw ingredient into a memorable dish. Add soy sauce and you’re headed East; with anchovy and tomato, you’re going West. See Asparagus with Preserved Ginger Relish (here).