YOU’LL LIKE kohlrabi once you get to know it. It has a tender heart, and despite its weirdly protuberant leaves, the young globe (really a succulent stem, not a gnarled root) has no bitterness. Buy kohlrabi no bigger than a baseball, when it’s sweet and crunchy raw. It’s easy to peel, browns nicely when roasted, and is one of the world’s most underrated vegetables.